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Winter Getaways November 15, 2020
A dedicated ski bum shares tips for saving money this season
Waterfalls may be their most majestic when frozen
Snowshoe to solitude at these backcountry huts
For the readers of The Denver Post, Boulder Daily Camera, Longmont Times-Call, Loveland Reporter-Herald, Canon City Daily Record
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We’re in for a wild winter By Dena Rosenberry The Denver Post
As I write this, my friend R. Scott Rappold, a freelance writer and avid skier whose tips you’ll read in these pages, is shredding powder at Wolf Creek Ski Area’s early opening. He’s wearing a mask and staying 6 feet from others in the lift line. And he’s not gathering with fellow ski bums for the arm-in-arm, Cheshire-grin opening day selfies I’ve enjoyed year after year. This season most certainly is different. The new coronavirus is still raging, and much of our seasonal
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winter fun is in question. We planned and wrote these stories believing that we’d all be allowed to explore Colorado this winter as long as we follow health and safety protocols. For now, we can. Let’s all do our part to ensure it stays that way: Wear a mask. Keep at least 6 feet of distance from others. Follow health and safety guidelines. And wash your hands. We hope to see you on the slopes or on the snowy trails in the weeks and months to come! Contact Dena Rosenberry at 303-954-3515 or drosenberry@denverpost.com
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What we can expect for the 2020-21 ski season | Page 4 Money-saving tips for skiers and snowboarders | Page 6 Hike to 9 of Colorado’s most dazzling frozen waterfalls | Page 8 The most scenic spots for skiers and nonskiers alike | Page 10 Strap on snowshoes for hikes to these warm huts | Page 12 Colorado gear makers have something special for you | Page 13 These tasty to-go beverages are perfect for your winter flask | Page 15 COVER PHOTO: A snowboarder flies off a jump at Copper Mountain’s Central Park while being videoed on March 13. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
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Pandemic protocols for Aspen Snowmass pass holders. Resort officials say that could change if the COVID-19 spread worsens. Reservations will be required for Ikon Pass holders, who can make their reservations on the Ikon Pass website. Daily tickets will be sold. Opening: Aspen Highlands, Dec. 12; Aspen Mountain, Nov. 26; Buttermilk, Dec. 12 and Snowmass, Nov. 26
Breckenridge
See the entry for Vail to learn about plans underway for all five Vail Resorts mountains. Opening: Scheduled to open Nov. 13
Beaver Creek
See the entry for Vail to learn about plans underway for all five Vail Resorts mountains. Opening: Nov. 25
Copper Mountain
Skiers and snowboarders navigate the bumps on the Dukes run on Peak 8 at Breckenridge Ski Resort on Nov. 23, 2019. Andy Cross, Denver Post file By John Meyer The Denver Post
While Colorado ski resorts continue to fine-tune plans for mountain access this winter in response to the coronavirus pandemic, here is a quick rundown of what we know now. Currently the five Vail Resorts mountains (Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Crested Butte) will be the only resorts requiring across-the-board reservations this season. Arapahoe Basin and Aspen Snowmass will be requiring reservations for Ikon Pass holders but not people with resort season passes. Resort officials are saying polices they’ve announced could change, depending on health and safety regulations, and Vail Resorts chief executive Rob Katz even concedes its reservations policy may be lifted during the season if conditions allow. Check the resort’s web page before you head up to ski or ride, and watch for updated information on The Denver Post outdoors web page, theknow.denverpost.com/outdoors. You’ll be required to wear a face mask and social distance at every ski area in the state. Expect limited capacity indoors, lots of hand sanitizer and signs directing you this way and that. Many ski areas are offering contactless purchases, so check ahead of time, charge your smartphone and download the app, if needed. Most of the ski areas are requiring advance reservations and
purchase of gear rentals and lessons. Don’t expect to gather with hundreds of your new best friends for beer or cocktails after a long day on the mountain. Do your best to follow along to keep everyone safe and smiling. And stay home if you’re feeling ill.
Arapahoe Basin
Those who have Arapahoe Basin season passes will not have restrictions and will not be required to make reservations, but pass sales will be limited. Reservations are required for Ikon Pass holders and can be made through the Ikon Pass website. Lift tickets will be sold daily but must be purchased online in advance through the Arapahoe Basin website. Tickets will not be sold at the area and sales will be limited to manage numbers on the mountain. Nov. opening
Aspen Snowmass
For the four Aspen-area mountains — Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Snowmass and Buttermilk — reservations will not be required
Copper is not requiring reservations, but it will manage numbers on the mountain by implementing a parking reservation system with “careful daily inventory and sales management,” according to spokeswoman Taylor Prather. Daily lift tickets will be sold online only and can be purchased while booking a parking reservation. The requirement for parking reservations applies to all, including Copper Mountain pass holders and Ikon Pass holders. Opening: Nov. 30
Crested Butte
See the entry for Vail to learn about plans underway for all five Vail Resorts mountains. Opening: Nov. 25
Echo Mountain
Reservations will not be required, but passes or daily lift tickets must be purchased in advance. Capacity may be limited, based on health and safety requirements. Opening: Nov. 27
Eldora
Like sister resort Copper Mountain (both are owned by Powdr Corp.), reservations will not be required but an online parking reservation system will be implemented to manage the number of visitors. The reservation requirement will be in effect seven days a week and will be required for all Eldora guests regardless of pass or ticket type. Daily lift tickets will be sold online and can be purchased at the time of making the parking reservation. Opening: Nov. 23 PROTOCOLS » 5
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Passes and lift tickets must be purchased in advance this season. Same-day tickets will not be available. Lift access may be limited on any given day in order to maintain comfortable capacity. Opening: Nov. 26
Vail
Loveland
Reservations will not be required for skiing and riding. Daily ticket sales will be limited on busy days and will be sold online only. November opening
Monarch
Signs designate proper spacing for skiers and snowboarders waiting at the Black Mountain Express lift at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area on May 27. You can expect similar restrictions at all Colorado ski areas for the 2020-21 season. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
Powderhorn
Reservations will not be required unless state or local health authorities ask resort officials to implement them. Powderhorn will sell daily lift tickets, online only, using that as a means of controlling numbers on the mountain. Opening: Nov. 27
Crowds aren’t a thing at Silverton Mountain. And if you really want to socially distance, you can rent the mountain for yourself or a few dozen friends for $9,990 a day. Opening: Heli skiing, Nov. 25; lifts, Dec. 26
Ski Cooper
The current plan is to not require reservations for season pass holders (like passes from the big guys, purchase provides access to other ski areas across the country). A
As at other Vail Resorts mountains, a reservation system prioritizing Epic Pass holders will be implemented to limit numbers. The number of lift tickets sold to the general public on a given day will depend on how many pass holders have made reservations, and they will be sold only online or through Vail Resorts call centers. The mountain will be open only to Epic Pass holders through Dec. 7, and Epic Pass holders have exclusive rights to make reservations for up to seven days in the “core” season (Dec. 8 through April 4) before non-pass-holders can begin making reservations on Dec. 8. Opening: Nov. 20
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Telluride
See the entry for Vail to learn about plans underway for all five Vail Resorts mountains. Opening: Scheduled for Nov. 6
Lift ticket and season passes are available online, and the new Power Pass provides access to ski areas in Colorado, Utah, New Mexico and Arizona (and summer mountain biking at three areas). Kids age 10 and younger can ski free with a Power Kids Pass. All lift tickets must be purchased online in advance. Opening: Nov. 21
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season pass holders. Opening: Dec. 11
Keystone
Reservations will not be required for pass holders. Daily lift tickets will not be sold on weekends for much of the season but will be sold online. Opening: Nov. 20
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Children practice maintaining balance and momentum in a ski class at Arapahoe Basin Ski Area. You’ll have to book classes and rent gear ahead of time at most ski areas this season. Dave Camara, provided by Arapahoe Basin Ski Area
limited number of daily tickets will be available, sold in advance online. Day pass sales could be limited to control crowding. Opening: Dec. 9
Steamboat
Resort officials say they are not planning to implement a reservations system but acknowledge that could change. Lift tickets are only available when packaged with an advance purchase, such as lodging or ski school. Walk-up window sales will be eliminated, and the sale of most undated lift ticket products has been discontinued
until further notice. Opening: Nov. 21
Sunlight
There will be no restrictions for season pass holders, resort officials say, and they are encouraging holiday travelers to purchase tickets online in advance. They also are encouraging online lift ticket sales by offering small discounts off the ticket window rate. Ticket sales may be capped during busy periods of Dec. 26-Jan. 2 and Feb. 13-15. Online lift ticket sales may be limited to limit capacity and leave room for
Resort officials say they are not implementing a reservations system “at this time” but acknowledge that could change. They plan to tightly regulate sales of daily lift tickets and say they will be available by advance purchase online only. Walk-up window sales will be eliminated, and the sale of most undated lift ticket products have been discontinued until further notice. Opening: Nov. 30
Wolf Creek
Season pass holders will not need reservations as of now, but that may change depending on government health guidelines. Guests are being advised to purchase daily lift tickets in advance, especially over holiday periods. Daily lift tickets will only be sold on Wolf Creek’s website, and if there is inventory available, skiers will be able to purchase them at the ticket windows via credit card sales only. Early, or pre-season, access is limited only to lifts and restrooms. Open John Meyer: 303-954-1616, jmeyer@denverpost.com or @johnmeyer
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Tips for cutting ski day costs Country USA ($35), which gives you 2-for-1 deals or 30% discounted lift tickets at 11 smaller ski areas across Colorado. Keep in mind Gems Card use is blacked out Dec. 19 to Jan. 2. Another option many resorts offer is a more affordable weekday pass. Sure, you’ll hate yourself when it snows a foot on a Saturday, but let’s face it, it’s a trade-off to not have to fight I-70 traffic and weekend lift lines. Also, check the website of each resort for “locals” days that feature lift ticket discounts.
Tip 3: Get free skiing for your kids.
A skier enjoys the sunshine while riding the lift at Eldora Mountain near Boulder. Smaller ski areas offer less-expensive alternatives to major resorts. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post
You hear it all the time from non-skiers, ex-skiers and would-be skiers: “Skiing is too expensive.” ¶ It’s true, skiing can be expensive. If you take a flight into Aspen, book a slopeside condo, rent skis, pay for a lesson and buy the family lunch at the on-mountain restaurant you can drop thousands of dollars before you’ve even mastered parallel turns. But skiing also can be surprisingly affordable. Just ask the ski bums of the world who ride every day but only earn minimum wage washing dishes by night — if they have a job at all. As the aspens drop their final leaves and the nighttime air has a marked chill to it, it’s time to plan for the season. From a ski bum who regularly hits 100 days on the slopes but hasn’t had a fulltime job in years, here are some tips to having a great season without taking out a second mortgage. You’ll sacrifice convenience to save a few bucks, but powder days are so worth it.
Tip 1: Buy a season pass – now!
If you’re planning to ski more than a few days this winter, you’ll want a season pass. If you’ve waited this long, you’ve missed early-season prices, but if you wait until the season begins to buy one you’re in store for quite a sticker shock. Daily lift tickets at major resorts can run $200 or more for an adult, so a pass pays for itself quickly.
Yes, it’s a gamble: Will my hill get the best snow this year? Fortunately, conglomerate offers like the Ikon and Epic passes come with bonus days at many other resorts across the state, country and world, so you can follow the best snow. Or if you prefer smaller, more locals-focused ski areas, you can get a pass at Loveland for $439 or Monarch Mountain for $479, with bonus days at each other as well as Copper Mountain, Purgatory, Powderhorn, Sunlight and many other smaller ski areas across the country.
Tip 2: Buy a midweek pass, four-pack or Gems Card.
Maybe you’re not planning a 100-day season because, unlike this correspondent, you have a day job or higher priorities than sliding on snow all the time. Many ski areas offer four-day passes that let you ski for half the daily ticket price. Or you can buy a Gems Card from Colorado Ski
The ski industry knows that children are the future, so resorts are keen to get them hooked early while still letting mom and dad ski without breaking the bank. Colorado Ski Country USA offers the 5th Grade Passport, which includes three days at 21 ski areas for just $40, as well as the 6th Grade Passport, with four days at each for $99. New for the 2020-21 winter season, however, both passes are good for weekdays only. If you’d rather ski at the five Vail Resorts mountains — Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Crested Butte, which aren’t part of Colorado Ski Country — you can register for the Epic Schoolkids Pass, which offers four free days at each resort for kids from kindergarten to fifth grade. Register for these passes now, since they’re only offered for a limited time.
Tip 4: Buy a college, senior or military pass.
Many resorts offer discounts for college students, senior citizens and veterans. For example, Monarch Mountain’s $479 pass is $389 for veterans, $289 for college students, $199 for retired military and just $20 for “super seniors,” those older than 68 whose knees still hold up on the slopes.
Tip 5: Buy used gear.
Ski towns are full of trust funders, professional riders and gear snobs who get new skis or snowboards every year. Their old gear, perfectly usable unless mangled by rocks, can be found in gear shops and ski swaps for a fraction of what new gear would cost. Look for gently used boots and clothing too. Also, check outdoor shops (REI, Wilderness Exchange, Mountain Equipment Recyclers, Gearonimo) along the Front Range for sales of last year’s rental gear that may be in especially good condition because of the shortened 2019-20 season.
Tip 6: Get season-long rentals for the kids.
Kids grow so fast they can outgrow their skis and boots in one season, so many parents opt to rent gear for the entire season rather than buying. Reserve your rentals early as shops usually run CHEAP » 7
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Tip 7: Didn’t buy a pass? Ski with someone who did.
Most ski passes offer discounted buddy tickets. So make friends with a passholder.
Tip 8: Don’t rent gear on the mountain.
You’ll find cheaper rates renting skis the day before your trip, plus you won’t have to stand in line in the morning, sweating in all your gear and missing the untracked powder.
Tip 9: Don’t book a room at the resort.
Lodging is much, much cheaper the farther you sleep from the mountain. A 20-minute drive in the morning can save you hundreds of dollars in a weekend. So if you’re
The Welch family, visiting from North Platte, Neb., takes to the slopes of Copper Mountain as a group on March 13. Families can save money on their ski trip, whether it’s a day or a week, by taking advantage of passes, packing their own food and booking lodging a few miles from the resort. Andy Cross, Denver Post file skiing Copper Mountain or Breckenridge, stay in Frisco. Skiing Aspen? Stay in Carbondale. Skiing Vail? Stay in Avon. You get the idea.
Tip 10: Never, ever buy lunch on
the mountain.
Yes, it’s tempting to eat on the hill. Who wants to take the time to go back to the car if you’re at a mega-resort where you parked at the free lot and rode a bus to ride a gondola to
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ride a lift? But if you thought food and drinks were expensive at Broncos games, the on-mountain lodge prices will blow your mind. At smaller ski areas you can go back to your car and have a picnic lunch. If it’s nice out you’ll often see people grilling in the parking lots at ski areas like Arapahoe Basin and Wolf Creek, where you can park and walk to the lifts (though maybe not this year). At the mega-resorts it’s a good idea to load up on snacks that can easily fit into your pockets or a small backpack. Or you can rent a locker and store lunch (check ahead of time to see if they’re available!), which will still cost only a small fraction of lunch on the hill.
Tip 11: If all else fails, get a job on the mountain.
If you must work during winter, a job at the resort often includes a free ski pass. Yeah, having a job is not ideal for the dedicated ski bum, but you’ve got to do what you’ve got to do.
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Find winter magic on a hike to these frozen waterfalls
boat; a ¼-mile one-way hike will get you to the lower falls. (A second fall is another 2.5 miles up the trail with nearly 2,000 feet of elevation gain.) The trail is typically pretty packed down from foot traffic and fairly easy to follow. Fish Creek Falls is open year-round 6 a.m.-10 p.m. and requires a $5 vehicle day use fee.
Bridal Veil Falls
Where: Telluride At 365 feet — a foot for each day of the year! (Unless it’s leap year, but that nonsense is behind us in 2020.) — Bridal Veil is the tallest free-falling cascade in Colorado. It’s a neat sight when it’s completely frozen over. Finding the falls: Trekking to the falls is discouraged during the winter months (and the 4WD road leading to its base is closed to cars), but you can still see the awe-inspiring waterfall in all its frozen glory from the end of Telluride’s box canyon. Just take Colorado Avenue east out of town for a couple miles until the pavement ends.
Rifle Falls
Waterfalls may be more visually intriguing when they’re frozen over than when they’re gushing. An ice climber scales a human-made ice cliff known as the Pic o’ the Vic section at the Ouray Ice Park on Jan. 11, 2019. Andy Cross, Denver Post file By Allyson Reedy Special to The Denver Post
Can you call it a waterfall if the water isn’t falling? We vote yes, and believe winter to be the coolest — see what we did there? — time to check out these frozen-over cascades. (Waterstill just doesn’t have the same ring to it.) In fact, waterfalls might be at their peak majesty when iced over and dusted in newly fallen snow, creating a scene straight out of Arendelle or Narnia or some other idyllic, frosted land that isn’t in a children’s movie. Hanging Lake may be the first spot you think of for impressive, wintry frozen falling water, but the Grizzly Creek fire burned areas above the trail and the lake, prompting White River National Forest Service officials to close the trail due to safety concerns. No reopening date has been announced. Luckily, Colorado is full of falls. Here are nine frozen cascades sure to stun and inspire. All you need are warm clothes, common sense — some trails will be icy; some will be dif-
ficult to follow — and a spirit for adventure.
Fish Creek Falls
Where: Steamboat Springs The 283-foot waterfall is a favorite for local ice climbers and snowshoers alike. The short but snowy trek to the falls is straight out of a fairy tale winter wonderland, lined with evergreens along the way. Finding the falls: The parking area and trailhead is just a few miles from downtown Steam-
Where: Rifle Described as tropical in the warm months, Rifle Falls transforms into a fairy tale-esque sight in winter, complete with icy daggers, frozen spray and sparkling spires. And since you drove all that way, be sure to stop at Rifle Mountain Park for the equally stunning ice caves — limestone caves full of beautiful turquoise icicles. Finding the falls: For prime viewing, head up the short, easy-to-follow trail. It’s just .2 miles round-trip, but there are other trails from the base of the falls if you want to further explore the area. Rifle Falls is open year-round 6 a.m.-10 p.m. and entry to Rifle Falls State Park is $8 per day, per vehicle. (An annual state parks vehicle pass costs $80.)
Seven Falls
Where: Colorado Springs This 181-foot, seventiered wonder is privately owned by The Broadmoor, but publicly loved by falling water aficionados. In winter, the falls are lit up with rainbow lights, adding a touch of festivity to the granite chambered ice sculptures. The falls sit in a 1,250-foot tall box canyon with hiking trails winding through the trees. Finding the falls: Park at Norris Penrose Event Center, where you’ll be shuttled 4 miles to the falls’ entrance. It’s then a .8 mile walk to the base of the falls and optional 224-step climb WATERFALLS » 9
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Bridal Veil Falls near Telluride is captivating when frozen over. Ryan Bonneau, provided by Visit Telluride
WATERFALLS «FROM 8 over the falls and to the top, where hiking trails further climb up the box canyon. Check The Broadmoor’s website for current hours and admission costs.
Elk Falls
Where: Staunton State Park, Pine Luckily Elk Falls is within an hour’s drive of Denver, because the hike is going to take a while. It’s nearly 11 miles to get to the waterfall and back to your car, so plan for a long day and potentially changing weather conditions. This is Colorado, after all. Finding the falls: Start at the Staunton Ranch trail (your other choice of trailhead, Mason Creek, will also get you to the falls, but it’s a whopping 17-mile trek). When the trail ends in 3.3 miles, take the Bugling Elk trail to Elk Falls pond. Take your last trail, Lion’s Back, the final mile up to the falls. A daily vehicle pass for Staunton State Park costs $9. (An annual state parks vehicle pass costs $80.)
Hidden Falls
Where: Rocky Mountain National Park, Estes Park Not at all hidden to ice climbers, Hidden Falls is a popular icy ascent in the Wild Basin area of Rocky Mountain National Park. These falls are said to be better in winter, as they tend to be more of a water trickle than a fall in
summer. Besides the theater of watching the climbers, the icy fall itself is a captivating sight, spilling through a rocky crevice. Finding the falls: Take Colorado 7 for 19 miles from Estes Park to the Wild Basin entrance. The main road is closed in winter, so park at the winter turnaround and walk down the road until you reach the horse trail that takes you to Hidden Falls. From the winter turnaround, it’s just under 2 miles each way. You’ll need a pass to get into the park, which costs $25 per vehicle, per day. (An annual national parks pass costs $80.)
Boulder Falls
Where: Boulder There’s a lot of water pouring out of Boulder Canyon, so when the 70-foot falls freeze, it’s a pretty amazing sight. Depending on the freeze, you may be able to see water rushing below the ice. Finding the falls: Head west out of Boulder on Boulder Canyon Drive for 8.6 miles until you see a sign on the right for Boulder Falls. At just 100 yards each way, this is a quick trek.
Ouray Ice Park
Where: Ouray The town of Ouray itself offers a few glimpses of natural waterfall wonders, but this manmade (and free!) park is truly spectacular. It’s a mecca for climbers (it hosts an ice festival each year that attracts climbers from around the world; planned for Jan. 21-24), but the blue ice, gravity-defying icicles
Fish Creek Falls is a short walk from the parking area. A second fall is another 2.5 miles up the trail, which is usually well-packed from hikers and snowshoers. Provided by Steamboat Springs Chamber of Commerce and glacial marvels are an impressive sight for non-climbers to behold, too. Finding the falls: Head south on U.S. 550 out of Ouray and hang a right on Camp Bird Road. The park is right there in Uncompahgre Gorge. It’s typically open mid- to late-December through midMarch, 8 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday and 7:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
The Fang
Where: Vail Plunging waterfalls — those that drop without touching any rocks or cliffs — typically don’t freeze; the water moves too fast.
But Vail’s The Fang is a special one, and each winter the 165-foot plunging cascade freezes into a breathtaking, freestanding ice column. You’ll see other frozen ice sheets, too, like the nearly equally tall Designator. Finding the falls: Take the East Vail exit from Interstate 70. From the Frontage Road, turn left onto Aspen Lane and left again onto Booth Creek Drive, from which you’ll see the amphitheater in all its frozen waterfall glory. Because of the avalanche danger in the area, you may want to view it from the car, but you’ll likely see climbers scaling it.
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The most scenic spots to ski or ride in Colorado
The scenery from the top of Aspen Highlands is spectacular, including an earn-your-sight view of Maroon Peak and North Maroon Peak, center. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file By R. Scott Rappold Special to The Denver Post
In the eternal race for powder turns, fast groomer laps or just family fun on the slopes, skiers and snowboarders often forget to look up and see the forest, not just the trees they’re trying not to ride into. Those views, of course, take in Colorado’s national forests, home to nearly every ski area in the state. Their soaring peaks, verdant valleys and amazing vistas make Colorado one of the prettiest states. And whether it’s up on the lift, at the top of the mountain, or even in town or in the village, every ski area has unique sights and scenic beauty. To remind you to look up — and to snap some ski trip photos that capture the majesty of the Rocky Mountains — we’ve put together a list of some of the most scenic spots in ski country. Stop a moment at any one of them to snap that perfect picture to hang on your wall or make your Instagram followers drool. Of course, if it’s snowing heavily you probably won’t be able to see 20 feet in front of you, much less the mountain vistas, so plan accordingly.
Expert skiers
Top of Blue Sky Basin, Vail If you’ve managed to work your way to remote Blue Sky Basin — several miles from where you left your car — take a break and soak in the views of the Sawatch Mountains to the west, a vision dominated by Mount of the Holy Cross, a famed peak that is hard to see from any road. Union Peak, Copper Mountain The mighty Gore Range dominates the view from the front
side, but as you get higher on the mountain the Rockies unfold before you in every direction. For a 360-degree panorama, take Rendezvous Chair to the Mountain Chief tow rope and take a short hike to the summit. If the hike doesn’t take your breath away, the view might. Highlands Bowl, Aspen Highlands Locals cherish this high-alpine bowl for the skiing, and the fact the grueling hike to get there means it takes much longer to get tracked out. If you’re up for the hike, be sure to take a few minutes to gaze in awe at the sight of the famous Maroon Bells. Plus, you’ll want to step aside to let the locals fly by you as you trudge up the hillside. The hike begins at the top of Deep Temerity and Loge Peak chairs. Parsenn Bowl, Winter Park The upper part of this huge resort is a playground of wide-open tundra, dominated by the view of the Indian Peaks and other Front Range mountains. You’re not far from Denver but it feels like another world. Ride the Panoramic Express Chair to the top of the resort for this unforgettable view. Top of Imperial Express Chair, Breckenridge Billed as the highest chairlift in North America when it opened in 2005, this ride spills you out at 12,840 feet, so high the town looks like a train-set model. Locals debate whether this area has the best skiing — conditions can be windswept and the temperature deadly cold at this elevation — but there’s no doubt it offers the best view on the mountain. You can see most of Summit County and the Front Range mountains from way up here.
Intermediate skiers
Montezuma Bowl, Arapahoe Basin With one of the highest base elevations in Colorado, and an upper mountain ringed on three sides by jagged peaks, A-Basin is a feast for the senses. For the best view, ride to the top of Lenawee Mountain Express chair and take the tow rope to the top of Montezuma Bowl. The mountains of Summit and Eagle counties dominate this amazing vista. While much of this terrain is rated black diamond, stick near the lift on the descent for easier terrain. Ptarmigan Roost, Loveland There are few places at Colorado resorts that offer a place for lunch or a beer with a view like this. Most of the ski area is above timberline, so when it gets too cold and windy and you need a break, take Ptarmigan chair to this alpine outpost, which offers SCENIC » 11
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SCENIC «FROM 10 expansive views of the rolling Front Range peaks. When the sun’s shining the patio is one of the best places for a beer in ski country. All the runs down are rated blue or green. Top of Bonanza Chair, Wolf Creek This family-owned southern Colorado ski area is known for deep powder — it averages 450 inches a year — but when the ripping is done take some time to enjoy the views. From the top of Bonanza Chair, the San Juan Mountains seem to spread out for eternity to the north and west. Sundeck, Aspen Mountain Looking for a swanky lunch with a splendid view? The top of Aspen Mountain has a 5-star restaurant with 5star views of the Elk Mountains. Dine inside when the weather is nasty or out in the sunshine after the storm. Beware, there are no trails rated green to get you down from here (or, for that matter, anywhere on the mountain). Powderhouse, Purgatory Resort The dramatic Needles, a subrange of the San Juan Mountains, fill the horizon from this bar and restaurant on the mountain. It’s just a short ski down from lifts 1 or 2 to the Powderhouse. Don’t imbibe too many drinks, though, because most of the runs down to the base area from here are steep.
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massive resort can be intimidating for beginners, but you can still get up high on the mountain and have green trails for the descent. The easiest way to get here is to start your day at the Eagle Bahn Gondola (in Lionshead). The gondola spills you out right at the restaurant, which also has a deck with great views of the Gore Range. Beginners can then ski the trails Cub’s Way or Born Free for an easy way down the mountain.
Nonskiers
The Sundeck atop Aspen Mountain offers a swanky place for a bite or a beverage amid a great day on the mountain — or a respite when it’s stormy. Anna Stonehouse, Aspen Times file
Beginner skiers
Skywalker, Monarch Mountain Perched on the Continental Divide, with one of the highest base elevations in Colorado, Monarch Mountain has plenty of spots for great photos. As is often the case, the best are from the top of the mountain. Ride the aptly-named Panorama lift and head left (there are no green runs to the right). Follow the flat, gentle Skywalker trail as it winds around past several steeper blue runs. From here in the middle of the Colorado Rockies you can see the San Juan, Elk and Sawatch ranges and even Pikes Peak, the only place in Colorado you can spy that famous mountain from a chairlift. Top of the mountain, Cooper This ski area near Leadville makes up for its small size with big views, and the best are from the top of the lifts at 11,757 feet. Colorado’s highest
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You don’t need to ski or ride to enjoy views of the snowy Rockies, just drive to the top of Loveland Pass near Arapahoe Basin Ski Area. Kathryn Scott Osler, Denver Post file
peaks, Mount Elbert and Mount Massive, dominate the view above the Arkansas River Valley. From the top of the 10th Mountain Division Chair ski down to the Piney Basin Triple Chair, which spills out at the summit of the hill. Most ways down from here are green or gentle blues. Top of Red Lady Express, Crested Butte Mountain Resort This resort in the town of the same name has a reputation for steep — often scarily steep — terrain, but you don’t have to be a double-diamond ripper to enjoy the stellar views of the mighty Elk Mountains. All the runs
down from here are gentle, with some light blues if you decide to head skier’s left to the Teocalli Lift. Try not to get too distracted by the views as you descend. Cliffhouse Restaurant, Buttermilk The smallest of the four resorts in the Aspen area is known as a more family-friendly alternative to the larger ski areas, but you’ll still find great views from the balcony of the Cliffhouse Restaurant. As long as you don’t head skier’s right of the Tiehack Express chair, you’ll find an easy way down the mountain. Eagles Nest, Vail Mountain This
Colorado Avenue, Telluride You don’t have to get up on the mountain to appreciate the beauty that is the western San Juans, mountains so dramatic they’ve been nicknamed the “American Alps.” The image of downtown Telluride, flanked by massive, snow-covered cliffs and box canyons, is one of the most iconic in the West. If the family is skiing but you aren’t, wander the charming downtown and take lots of pictures. Howelsen Hill, Steamboat Springs One of the oldest ski areas in Colorado, this small hill in the heart of Steamboat Springs has trained more Olympic athletes than any other. At night in winter you can come out and marvel at the young skiers fearlessly jumping hundreds of feet in the air. Don’t forget your camera because it’s a sight to behold. Colorado Snowsports Museum, Vail Take a walk into ski history at this museum just a couple blocks from the lifts. Photo opportunities abound. Sapphire Point Overlook On Swan Mountain Road between Breckenridge and Keystone, this overlook above Lake Dillon offers a great location for mountain photography. The .6-mile trail is usually passable without snow gear and offers a panoramic view of the lake, towered over by the Gore and Front Range mountains. Loveland Pass The highest yearround mountain pass in Colorado is a great place to visit and hike around — as its own destination or when the rest of the family is skiing Loveland or Arapahoe Basin. The views of peaks in every direction rival those skiers see from the chairlifts. Keep in mind that “yearround” is relative, as the pass often closes for hours or days during winter storms.
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Snowshoe to a cozy rest at these backcountry huts By Ryan Wichelns Special to The Denver Post
Skiers get all the love with hut trips. Users are quick to share which shelters have the best access to crazy lines and the best backcountry terrain. Or which huts you can link together into a long ski tour. But Colorado has a lot of huts and shelters reachable by incredible — and safe — snowshoe hikes, with adjacent trails for shoeing, nearby slopes for world-class sledding, or even a sauna to relax in without being bombarded with a crowd of boozed-up, smelly ski bums (if that’s not your vibe). So whether you’re a non-skier looking for your first experience sleeping in snow-covered mountains, a shredder looking to bring nonskier family along, or a die-hard snowshoer on the hunt for a peak-bagging base camp, these are the huts sure to keep you comfortable. Staying safe on your winter hut trip Even if you fancy yourself a little less hard core than the backcountry skiers who make use of these huts, or tent-bound winter campers, huts in Colorado are still islands in a sea of serious winter terrain. They don’t all require major hikes or approaches to reach, but don’t plan on driving your car up to the front door. Basic backpacking skills — knowing what to bring, having supplies you can carry and knowing how to pack a backpack — are important. Know how to navigate if a storm rolls in and be prepared for bad weather during your hike. Similarly, wood stoves and other heat sources keep the huts comfortable for most of the day, but expect temperatures to drop overnight and in the morning, until you get the wood stove burning again. Warm sleeping bags and layers are important. Finally, the approaches to most Colorado huts are reasonably safe from avalanche terrain, but you probably don’t need to get far off-track or venture too far away from the hut to be in a danger zone. Taking some level of an avalanche course isn’t a bad idea and it’s critical if you have any expectation that you might — intentionally or unintentionally — end up in avalanche terrain. Like all trips this winter and through next summer, keep the pandemic and related restrictions in mind as you plan your trip.
Uncle Bud’s Hut
Worried about bad weather? Post up in a mountain castle. The grand wood and stone exterior is
Opus Hut, near Silverton, is the closest you’re going to get in Colorado to a full-service refuge in the Pyrenees. Brett Schrenkengost, provided by Opus Hut reminiscent of a shelter in the Alps, and the luxurious inside isn’t far off. Owned by the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, Uncle Bud’s Hut sleeps 16 (limited to 12 people of one group this season), all upstairs, saving the downstairs for the kitchen, dining room, and communal space with views of 14,421-foot Mount Massive. Easy route-finding along forest roads around the north side of Turquoise Lake (near Leadville) make the 5.9-mile hike to the hut simple, and just 25 minutes above the hut is a meadow that’s perfect for beginning skiers or sledders. (huts.org)
Opus Hut
If your winter trip experience consists more of luxurious ski lodges, restaurants and grand hotels, Opus Hut is the closest you’re going to get in Colorado to a full-service refuge in the Pyrenees. At 11,600 feet above Silverton, guests are treated to home-cooked meals. Electrical outlets (powered by solar panels), bedding, filtered drinking water, a-la-carte alcohol and snacks, and space for 16 make it comfortable enough that you’ll be perfectly happy not even leaving the hut. But located right at treeline, the hiking is world class from there into the mighty San Juans surrounding Ophir Pass with destinations like Crystal Lake and Paradise Basin ideal for both backcountry skiers and snowshoers. Best of all? After a long day exploring, you’ll have a hot dinner to come back to, without lifting a finger. (opushut.com)
Seedhouse Guard Station
A relaxing walk along a mostly flat road leads to the quaint Seedhouse Guard Station. Just four bunks, a simply equipped kitchen and gas fireplace make this one-room shelter outside Steamboat Springs the perfect spot for small groups or couples looking for someplace to enjoy peace and quiet amid rolling hills blanketed in snow. The nearby Mount Zirkel Wilderness is a haven for winter hiking, but you don’t need to go far to explore the maze of forest roads leading up the west side of Little Agnes Peak, plus you’ll have the hut to yourself when it’s time to head back for dinner. (fs.usda.gov/recarea/mbr/recarea/?recid=28007)
Shrine Mountain Inn
Comprised of three huts — Jay’s, Chuck’s and Walter’s cabins — the Shrine Mountain Inn’s easy 2.7-mile approach and ample room to spread out (the cabins can host up to 36 guests) make this location between Copper Mountain and Vail ideal for families and those looking for a little shoulder room to relax. Indoor plumbing includes showers, there’s a grill on each deck, and there’s a sauna between two of the huts, making them plenty comfortable for inexperienced backcountry visitors. Gentle, open hillsides below the huts make great short ski laps or safe places to sled or just play in the snow. (huts.org)
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The best homegrown gear By Katie Shapiro Special to The Denver Post
Mountainsmith
Akinz
With the Rocky Mountains as our backyard playground, it’s no surprise that many of the outdoor industry’s leading brands call Colorado home base. Whether you’re splurging on special edition skis, tackling uphilling for the first time, setting out on snowshoes, or looking for the latest gear to keep you warm and dry, we’ve scoured the state for the latest locally made equipment to arm you for every adventure ahead this season. Whether you buy something new, new to you, or go with what’s in your closet, we hope to see you out amid the falling flakes this winter.
Gear doesn’t get more classic — or more durable — than Mountainsmith, which marked its 40th anniversary last year. Travel Trunk duffel, The go-anywhere, comes in four sizes. fit-everything Provided by Mountainsmith Travel Trunk is a longtime essential duffel for adventurers that hauls it all and comes in four sizes (M, L, XL, XXL) with the option of adding Strapettes ($27.95) to turn it into an instant backpack. From $69.95, mountainsmith.com
Beanie season is the best season, so having a hand-knit hat to keep you cozy and covered is key. Enter Akinz, a woman-led team that’s been stitching headwear out of its Old Town Fort Collins Ski Patrol beanie. storefront since 2012. Provided by Akinz For a vintage look, go with the Ski Patrol beanie, $32 — although you’ll probably end up ordering more than one. Triple Threat, anyone? How about the Viking? akinz.com
Topo Designs HQ: Denver
If you’re not already a member of #TeamTopo, consider Topo Designs’ fleece pants the perfect way to join. Available in both men’s and women’s sizes and cuts in forest, red or black, this relaxed-fit trouser is 100% recycled polyester Polartec 200 fleece with DWRcoated nylon taslan re- Topo Designs inforcements on the fleece pants. knees and seat — sure Provided by Topo Designs to keep you warm whether you’re walking the dog or wearing them as a base layer on the slopes. $98, topodesigns.com
Crescent Moon HQ: Englewood
Say goodbye to the heavy, clunky snowshoes of yesteryear with Crescent Moon’s Eva. First introduced in 2017, the category-disrupting design was Eva snowshoes, with dreamt up by co- built-in ice spikes. founder Tamara Provided by Crescent Moon Laug — a lifelong runner who was inspired by the rocker-shaped Hoka One One shoe. An expandable polymer base makes trekking through snow easier, lighter and quieter than ever before and builtin ice spikes provide extra traction. $159, crescentmoonsnowshoes.com
HQ: Golden
Icelantic
HQ: Golden
For 2020/21, Icelantic launches the Special Edition National Parks Collection, introducing the Rocky Mountain Nomad 105 (men) and Rocky Mountain Maiden 101 (women). Available exclusively on the company’s website on Dec. 8, imagery of Rocky Mountain National Park’s Dream Lake was illustrated by Travis Parr (Icelantic’s co-founder and topsheet artist since the company’s start in 2004). A Special Edition portion of all sales from the National Parks collection will be donated Collection. to RMNP with an additional Provided by Icelantic national park partner announced for future ski seasons. $779 and $749, icelanticskis.com
Zeal Optics
HQ: Boulder
Meet the Beacon, Zeal Optics’ first goggle to feature its groundbreaking Ob- The Beacon, with servation Deck Observation Deck Technology, which Technology. was developed with Provided by Zeal Optics a tilted cylindrical lens allowing you to more clearly see the snow line below the frame while eliminating glare. Designed for both men and women (and also offered in prescription lenses), choose from a rainbow of lens colorways to match your onmountain kit. From $129, zealoptics.com
HQ: Fort Collins
Otterbox
HQ: Fort Collins
Prepare yourself for the slog of I-70 traffic and/or winter expedition gatherings with OtterBox’s Venture 25 Cooler in the trunk. It’s fashioned from polypropylene with a silicone seal and anti-slide rubber feet. Reinforced Venture 25 cooler. latches help keep crit- Provided by Otterbox ters out — it’s certified bear-resistant by the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee when secured with the optional locking kit ($29.99). Plus, it keeps ice for up to 10 days! $229.99, otterbox.com
Osprey
HQ: Cortez
Osprey’s latest pack is designed for more dynamic body movement, providing performance during any type of winter sport. The Talon 22 (men’s) and Tempest 20 (women’s) are equally lightweight, ventilat- The Talon 22 men’s ed and close-hug- lightweight pack. ging — even while Provided by Osprey you tackle the most technical terrain — thanks in part to the BioStretch harness, continuous-wrap hipbelt and injection-molded, die-cut foam AirScape backpanel. $130, osprey.com GEAR » 14
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GEAR «FROM 13 Voormi
HQ: Pagosa Springs
Newer to the scene of Colorado-based craft apparel brands, Voormi was built around the remote and rugged lifestyle of the southern San Juan Mountains. Working with higher performing, proprietary fabrics and natural fibers, its apparel is built for the backcountry but looks good when you’re back in town, too. The High-E (available in both men’s and women’s cuts and sizes) is the quintessential four-season Merino wool hoodie you can wear as a baselayer, midlayer or outerlayer anywhere. $229, voormi.com
Strafe
HQ: Aspen Highlands
Expertly engineered by Strafe’s Highland Bowl-obsessed owners, the signature Sickbird Suit is the only onesie you’ll ever need. Available in both men’s and women’s sizes and cuts, it’s constructed with sturdy, but air-permeable 3L eVent DV Flex fabric, making it the ultimate in outerwear, which performs best during the deepest and harshest of storms. $1,199, strafeouterwear.com
Bamboo ski poles. Provided by Grass Sticks Hot Wax stick. Provided by mountainFLOW
mountainFLOW eco-wax
HQ: Carbondale Environmentally friendly ski and board waxes are an industry rarity, which guided mountainFLOW’s mission to formulate a plant-based, biodegradable speed solution that works just like more commonly used petroleum alternatives. Its Hot Wax stick, which promises to make you shred “wicked fast,” melts quickly, is simple to apply, and will last all season. $18.50, mountainflow.com
Weston
HQ: Minturn
With the rise in popularity of uphilling and backcountry routes (likely to tempt even more adventurers during a pandemic), riders are increasingly turning to boards that can split into two. The standouts among Weston’s 2020/21 lineup are the 10th Mountain edition for men, which pays homage to the soldiers that trained in Colorado during World War II, and the Riva for women, which highlights artist Kelly Halpin on the topsheet. You’ll earn your turns climbing with these splitboards which also excel in steeps, open bowls and couloirs. $899, westonbackcountry.com
Grass Sticks
HQ: Steamboat Springs Make the switch from traditional carbon fiber or aluminum ski poles to bamboo — a more sustainable choice that rivals the strength of steel and concrete. Handmade in the high country by self-proclaimed “ski bums and river rats” (who also make SUP paddles), the colorful Original Custom Grass Sticks are crafted with kiln-dried Calcutta bamboo, topped with a moisture- and cold-proof clear coat, and finished with a no-slip carbide tip. Bonus: Bamboo ski poles are always a conversation starter in the lift line. $98, grasssticks.com
Smartwool
HQ: Steamboat Springs There’s no better feeling than taking your boots off after a day playing outside in the snow. Smartwool’s Extra Heavy Cozy Slipper Sock makes it even greater. Made with a proprietary 2 Degree fit system and super-soft Merino wool, it’s the company’s warmest, cushiest release yet (and stamped with a signature “Go Far. Feel Good. Est. 1994” patch on the back). $29.95, smartwool.com
Big Agnes
Sickbird Suit. Provided by Strafe
HQ: Steamboat Springs From hut-trippers to van-lifers to first chairseekers, a winter temperature sleeping bag is a must. Big Agnes’ Echo Park -20˚ is cut tall and wide for a roomier, yet still super warm slumber wherever you take it. Quilt-like construction features a nylon rip-stop shell fabric with a water repellent finish and a double-zipper allows removal of the top layer to transform your backcountry bed into a streamlined mummy bag or stand-alone comforter. $239.95, bigagnes.com
LiftOp vehicle rack. Provided by RockyMounts
RockyMounts
HQ: Grand Junction Are you even a Coloradan without a roof rack? RockMounts is best known for its bike racks, but the LiftOp has you covered for skis and snowboards. Two sizes (Biggie and Smalls) fit up to five pairs of fat skis or four snowboards in a locking, tubular design enabled by a onetouch push button to make loading and unloading quick. Form-fitting cable mounts fit most crossbars including Thule and Yakima with an additional “T-Track” mounting option included for seamless integration into Audi, Volkswagen, BMW, Volvo or Mini vehicles. $179.95 and $159.95, rockymounts.com
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The perfect cocktails for your winter adventures By Josie Sexton The Denver Post
If you enjoyed to-go cocktails from bars and restaurants during summer, you’re in luck. Many of them are continuing to offer drinks for takeout. For now, businesses are still open for service, but in case the rules change, we went ahead and asked bartenders for some recipes to carry us through winter. Each of these tasty beverages is appropriate for your to-go insulated cup or flask, in case you’re looking for something stronger than coffee or hot cocoa on your snowy adventures. You can make these drinks at home or order from the bars that suggest them (which will send you home with all the necessary accoutrements). When filling a flask with straight whisky or schnapps just won’t do, American Elm bar manager Jesse Torres recommends making an old-fashioned. “An old-fashioned is my go-to because it’s always adaptable, customizable and actually enjoys the unregulated temperature changes in your flask,” Torres says. “You can put your whole flask in the freezer and have an icecold drink at the ready, or you can keep it next to your body for a warming sip on the slopes.” And he says the combinations for old-fashioneds are “endless,” with a version for every occasion. “You can use whiskey, rum, mezcal, tequila, or whatever spirit you want. It can be as sweet, dry, bitter, or as fun as you’d like it be. Try using a liqueur in place of the syrup (something like Marble Distilling’s Midnight Expresso is perfect for a rich daytime sipper), and try switching up the bitters,” Torres says. “This version is a solid base to start.”
American Elm bar manager Jesse Torres believes you can’t go wrong in winter by mixing an old-fashioned. Provided by American Elm
Steven Waters of Run for the Roses recommends a Boulevardier, center, as your go-to adult beverage for winter fun. Michael Ciaglo, Special to The Denver Post, file
Old-fashioned
“This cocktail can be imbibed as is, or it can be chilled in the freezer ahead of time,” Torres says. “Don’t worry, it won’t freeze!”
Ingredients
4 oz. of your spirit of choice (Torres goes for a higher proof bourbon like A.D. Laws 6-year Bottled in Bond. 1 oz. water ½ oz. rich simple syrup (recipe below), or other liqueur/syrup 6 dashes of bitters, like Angostura 4 orange peels
Directions
In a container, combine the spirit, water, syrup and bitters. Express the oils of the orange peels over the cocktail and discard. Give it all a good stir to combine. Finally, pour the cocktail into the flask using a funnel. FOR SIMPLE SYRUP: To make rich simple syrup, combine two cups of sugar (white granulated or my favorite, Demerara) with one cup of water in a saucepan. Heat and stir until it is all combined into a clear syrup. Remove from the heat, let it cool completely and bottle. This syrup is good for up to two weeks (or up to two months refrigerated). (Makes 12 ounces.)
Brooklyn
Brass Tacks co-owner Stuart Jensen suggests trying the Brooklyn, a cooler version of the Manhattan, when you’re trekking to the mountains and need a warming drink. Like its better known neighbor cocktail, the Brooklyn is made with rye whiskey and dry vermouth, but it adds maraschino liqueur and Amer Picon (made in-house at Brass Tacks) to the mix. For those who haven’t been introduced, Amer Picon is an herbaceous liqueur filled with orange zest and spices — perfect for fall and winter but impossible to find anywhere in the U.S. (It can’t be exported here from France.) You should try making it at home, or you can pick up a ready-made and bottled Brooklyn from the bar just before heading out of town.
Ingredients
2 oz. Old Overholt Bonded Rye 1 oz. Dolin Dry Vermouth ½ oz. Amer Picon ¼ oz. Leopold Bros. Maraschino Liqueur 2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters
Method
Combine all ingredients, stir and strain into a flask.
Albertine/Boulevardier
Steven Waters of Run for the Roses says an Albertine or Boulevardier should warm you right up slope-side. Both are boozy classics, but the first can be added to hot cocoa: “Powdered is fine. Steal some hot water from the peak’s coffee maker and call it a day,” Waters says. And the second is “like a Negroni, but for those people that say ‘I only like whiskey.’ Plus 2 ounces of 100-proof whiskey will always get you going,” he adds. These recipes are strong and straightforward: “You’re not carrying around ice and garnishes and need to pack that buzz into a small package.”
Albertine ingredients
¼ oz. Luxardo Maraschino ¼ oz. Yellow Chartreuse ¾ oz. Cointreau 1½ oz. Schladerer Kirschwasser
Boulevardier ingredients
2 dashes Regan’s Orange Bitters 1 oz. Carpano Antica 1 oz. Campari 2 oz. Mellow Corn Whiskey
Method
For both, shake well with ice and strain into your flask.
Josie Sexton: 303-954-1645, jsexton@denverpost.com or @josiebsexton
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Plan your trip
Hockey Photo by B4Studio; Ski photo by Bob Seago; Main St. Creede photo by Jeffery Beall via Flickr, CC BY 2.0
.com
A winter wonder, Creede offers a wide variety of outdoor recreation opportunities, celebrations, days-upon-days of sunshine, and select moments of solitude. Crowds are nonexistent this time of year and the forest is wrapped in a snowy quiet. Creede offers a taste of the old-fashioned Colorado experience.
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