AT Hike 200

Northbound Hikers traverse the summit of Max Patch Mountain with the Great Smoky Mountains as a backdrop. Sony DSC-H3, F8, 1/640, ISO-125.

AT Hike 200 By Joe Morris

Any copyrighted material on these pages is used under "fair use" for the purpose of study and review. A thorough effort was made to clear any necessary reprint permissions. Any required acknowledgement omitted is unintentional. Hypertext links to other sites and references to businesses are for the convenience of the reader and do not constitute any endorsement by the author. The author has in no way been compensated for the inclusion of links or references to businesses included in this publication. This publication is free and is to be freely distributed; however, the pictures contained herein are not to be used, reprinted or published without the prior written consent of the author.

Dedicated to Cliff Ammons: Photographer and Friend

The Appalachian Trail in the Roan Highlands

From May 2005 to May 2009, I lost my Father to cancer, one of my dearest friends in an automobile accident, my livelihood of 27 years, and, ultimately, I lost my wife to divorce. It was a discovery of cancer in my mom during the winter of ’09 that broke the proverbial “Camel’s Back”, and for “better or worse” had tilted to one-side with no relief in sight. During this life passage I found the Appalachian Trail through my friend, Charles, or, maybe the trail found me. Nevertheless, the A.T. saved my life and I am forever grateful. I finished the trail from the northern tier of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park to Damascus, Virginia in April 2011 after two and a half years of, primarily, loop or outand-back hikes. The trail sections in this book I have completed multiple times, both northbound and southbound, in all-seasons. I am a day-hiker or section hiker with a reasonable understanding of the rewards and challenges of the A.T. Many have come to the Trail since 1937, seeking solace, personal growth, et al. In five years of my own extensive hiking and exploration of the Tennessee/North Carolina Sections, every spring brings a new crop of “thru-hikers”, by the time they reach my sections most have processed and overcome much; however, others appear disillusioned and lost. In June of 2011, I took a day hike near the Spring Mountain Shelter in Greene County Tennessee and met a man from New York City that had left a six-figure a year salary in pharmaceutical sales to embark on a thru-hike of the A.T. Only 285 miles into a roughly 2,175 mile-trek, it was very obvious, my new friend would never reach Mount Katahdin, Maine, the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. As he relished the drags from a fresh pack of Marlboro’s acquired in Hot Springs, North Carolina, I asked if he knew the odds he faced given the weather window of opportunity that lay ahead in Baxter State Park Maine. It was the middle of June: Baxter State Park closes to hikers in early October. Of course, I already knew that he had processed the inevitable, He simply looked up between the rings of smoke and said: “I can’t go home now, my wife will kill me”. He’s not alone, according to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy website the thru-hike completion rate is between 25% and 30% in a single season for north-bounders. Southbound hikers are less likely to finish the Appalachian Trail; the ATC reports a 17% completion rate in 2010 for a SOBO hike. 1 So, this book is a journey over the 208.8 miles from Max Patch, Tennessee to Damascus, Virginia; arguably the best section of the Appalachian Trail south of New Hampshire’s White Mountains. A story that will be told primarily through photographs; however, I haven’t always had a camera along the way and some memorable characters have walked into my life on this trail. So, I will do my best to recall those chance encounters through words. We will look at Section One through Section Fifteen of the Appalachian Trail Guide for Tennessee-North Carolina published by the Appalachian Trail Conference, starting in Max Patch, in Section 15, and traveling northbound. In addition, the text that follows is written as a template to accomplish the AT Hike 200 in 14 days. So, if you are contemplating a thru-hike, I encourage you to consider the AT Hike 200 as a warm-up, this section of trail will give you the best of the southern Appalachians: open grassy balds with amazing views, waterfalls, old-growth forest, and trail towns without equal. Perhaps, you are not at a point in life that affords such a radical shift as our friend from NYC: let me encourage you to spend your vacation exploring the A.T. in Tennessee-North Carolina.

Max Patch is within 20 miles of Newport, Tennessee with shuttle services available to the trail. Or, if so inclined, you can begin your journey at Standing Bear Hostel near Hartford, Tennessee. Both are accessible from Knoxville’s McGhee-Tyson Airport about an hour west of the trail. This is your gateway to a northbound exploration of the Appalachian Trail from the Great Smokies to Damascus. If you choose a southbound trek, Tri-Cities Regional Airport in Blountville, Tennessee is about forty-five minutes from Damascus, Virginia.

1 Appalachian Trail Conservancy, Harpers Ferry, WV, www.appalachiantrail.org/about-the-trail/2000-milers

So, you’re interested in hiking all or a portion of the Appalachian Trail: let’s get a gear discussion started and out-of-the way at the outset. Virtually every piece of gear I started with five years ago for over-night backpacking trips sits lonely and unused now that I have several miles under my belt. Picking the correct gear for you can be a tedious process, it can also be a heckuva lot of budget busting fun: Backpacker magazine is a great gear resource, as is whiteblaze.net and Sgt Rock’s Hiking H.Q. But, perhaps, the best sources of information lie with friends already involved in the hobby. I have been really lucky to live around people with lots of four-season hiking experience. People that love to talk about gear, the kind of guys who will stand in the shower to test a new rain pant or jacket. Guys that watch the weather forecast hoping for sub-freezing temps because they want to know how much frost will accumulate on that new single-wall tent. Gear junkies with a passion to trim weight and improve performance on the trail. My advice: find these people, through social networks or trail clubs, ask lots of questions and take plenty of notes. Also, do not be shy, gear junkies love to talk about gear: tips, tricks, materials, knots and vanquished ounces. And, of course, good old-fashioned experience plays a role in this process as well. My first over-night on the trail, came unexpected, between Lemon Gap and Max Patch in May 2008 at Roaring Fork Shelter. I packed my Osprey Atmos 60 for the purpose of getting used to the weight of the pack, never expecting to use the gear; however, the skies opened two miles south of Lemon Gap and everything I had in the backpack was drenched. I stayed awake most of the night playing human clothes dryer attempting to dry gear and clothes between my body and jacket. It didn’t take long to figure out that I had packed way too much gear: nearly 35 pounds for that sleepless night. I found out later the Osprey was rated to 25 plus pounds; yet, every pound over 25 felt like 5 additional pounds laden on the shoulders and hip belt. With each subsequent trip, I pared down weight until I had managed to trim winter weight to roughly 28 pounds and summer weight somewhere in the 20-pound range. Yes, weigh the backpack or just dazzle your friends by building a gear spreadsheet from which to inventory and pull gear. Shoot the moon and engage in a plethora of compulsive exercises to cut total pack weight.

This is the first caveat in this book: evaluate everything in your pack, each time as you hike the trail, trim weight whenever and wherever possible. The additional unused or under-utilized backpack pounds will exponentially ratchet up the misery quotient as you hike. As many who have written before me have said: you will get wet, you will stink, you will, inevitably, bring more on the trail than you need. So, via trial and error, practice and evaluate gear choices to minimize weight. Weight minimization will make you a happy camper- pardon the pun.

A few basics will go a long way to improving the quality of your hike: get a backpack with a quality hip-belt and load transfer capability, I recently purchased a Granite Gear Blaze AC 60, and I have never been happier. Make every effort to load the pack at twenty-five pounds (plus or minus), you will thrive at this weight. I have encountered thru-hikers carrying 60 plus pounds; invariably, if you ask them, how much are you carrying, they will say “too much”. But, the choice to carry gear, vis-à-vis weight, is a personal one. Some hikers will get downright defensive if you question their voluminous choices. Suffice to say, I have enough weight built into my God-given frame making the journey up a one-thousand foot slope challenging enough without strapping a Fender Telecaster on my back. No word of a lie, I met a guy with tree-trunks for legs preparing to climb Unaka Mountain in Unicoi County Tennessee, and he had a guitar strapped to his external frame pack loaded with around 70 pounds. I play guitar myself, so, I started asking about his acoustic guitar attached to the pack. He proceeded to tell me his wife was bringing his Fender Telecaster to the next trail crossing. After he had completed more than 400 miles, I made the assumption he knew A.T. shelters did not have electricity for an amplifier to make his Tele audible: but, who am I to question the motives of a fellow explorer. Trust me, lighten the load, and enjoy the journey. In the appendix of this book, I have listed my current gear and included gear suggestions from others with far more experience than I. Keep in mind, technology is constantly changing in the outdoor enthusiasts’ world; so, though the basics remain the same, the gear will change over time.

Choose lightweight wicking fabrics for underclothes, shirts, and socks. No cotton, it only creates chafing and blisters; plus, it absorbs sweat and precipitation adding, you guessed it, weight.

Essentials to pack are a matter of personal choice and depend on the season; but, for me, I absolutely must have a collection of gloves rated to different temperatures and liners for my hands in cold months.

Also, good down pants and down jacket, plus, down booties for comfort in camp during the winter months. This gear discussion could be a book in and of itself, by now, you may be asking: “where are the pictures”? So, one last gear suggestion here, and it may be the most important one. Find a good outdoor retailer with an emphasis on hiking and trail running to purchase the correct pair of boots or trail runners for your frame and walking speed. Case in point, I purchased a pair of Gortex trail runners for a winter hike: ten miles into a sixteen-mile day, my feet were burning in pain with each step. After that miserable day, I went to Diamond Brand Outdoor near Asheville, North Carolina, a store with a great reputation for proper footwear selection. Long story short, the shoes I had purchased were only appropriate for a man weighing up to 160 pounds. Did I mention or imply that I may weigh something north of 160 pounds! Get the right shoes, do the research, spend the money, and enjoy the miles. Now, on to Max Patch Tennessee: enjoy your journey through the Southern Appalachians.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 15 Max Patch Road to Hot Springs 20.6 Miles

If you decide to start your journey from Max Patch and travel north you will not be disappointed.

The views and scenic beauty of Max Patch are among the best you will find on the entire A.T. Before you start the journey, you could elect to spend the night in an awesome hiker hostel, Standing Bear Farm/Hostel in Harmon, Tennessee. The hostel has a cabin, bunkhouse and showers, plus, parking and shuttle services. Or, there is a cabin rental about a mile-and-a-half from the summit of Max Patch that is available for a two-night rental (maxpatchcabin.com). From there, you could spend a couple of days exploring the area around Max Patch or, try your hand at fishing in the hatchery supported trout fishing pond near the summit.

Max Patch is a very popular place to visit, not as popular as some of the trails and destinations in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park; but, popular nonetheless. The summit of Max Patch, elevation 4,629 feet, offers 360° views of the surrounding mountains including: Mount Mitchell to the east and the breath of the Smokies to the south. Max Patch is an open grassy bald, unique in that it was used to graze cattle from the 1800’s. I have heard that this practice of grazing dates back hundreds of years and can be attributed to the Indian tribes that inhabited these lands. The cattle would be driven from the valleys to the summits in the summer where temperatures were cooler. Also, it rains up to five times more on these summits than it does in the valleys, creating lush pasture. The common practice now utilized by the forest service keeps the balds open by mowing and controlled burns. Volunteers of the Carolina Mountain Club maintain the trail from Max Patch to Spivey Gap near Erwin, Tennessee.

The first part of this hike from Max Patch to Lemon Gap is renown throughout the area for its proliferation of wildflowers. In fact, north of Roaring Fork Shelter in the late spring thousands upon thousands of trillium can be seen covering the hillsides adjacent to the trail. In late summer, coneflowers, ironweed, jewelweed, daisies, orange touch-me-nots, joe pie weed, butterfly weed, goldenrod and blackeyed-susan blanket the base loop trails and pastures of Max Patch. From State Route 1182, Max Patch Road, to Lemon Gap is 6.2 miles and it is a very easy hike. You will pass Roaring Fork Shelter at mile, 2.7: the shelter has a privy, tent sites, and bear cables. Before you start your hike purchase a copy of the Tennessee – North Carolina Appalachian Trail Guide from the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, it will help you create a day-to-day plan. Most likely, you will hike from shelter to shelter, that does not mean you have to sleep in the shelter; however, you will want the protection available, when necessary, and usually there are sources of water close to each shelter.

Every day you will be planning walking distance, managing your available food, and searching for and treating your most important resource, water. I prefer to treat water with Chlorine Dioxide tablets, as it is lightweight, and readily available. Also, bring a small or shallow cup to dip water from limited resource areas, especially in the summer months.

It was on the summit of Max Patch that I learned an important lesson in hiker-to-hiker conversation. As I mentioned earlier, I mostly section hike or day hike; meaning I am often on the trail with a small backpack and do not camp. Thru-hikers call this “slack-packing”. One day in 2010, I was “slack-packing” and I met an older gentleman thru-hiking the trail. Rambling up the south side of Max Patch summit, I heard him grumbling about the lack of wilderness after he had left the Smokies the day before. You see, there are electric power lines running parallel to Max Patch road, powering the houses that lie along the road toward Del Rio, Tennessee. Also, vacationers and summit seekers that do not hike regularly were out in abundance walking the trail that early spring day. As it turned out, he wasn’t fond of the summit seekers either. However, ever persistent and being an eager conversationalist, I asked him; “so, how far you headed”? He looked at me and in a disapproving tone said, “Maine, that’s the plan”, then, he turned quickly and continued northbound, grumbling about the electrical wires with each step.

As you continue reading this book it will come as no surprise that I enjoy striking up a conversation on the trail. But there is a time and place for everything. I learned an important lesson that day: simply say “hello”, if the hiker wants to talk they will. Otherwise, just say: “enjoy your journey” and keep moving. I figure “That’s the plan”, seems to be code for “no conversation please”. The experience of hiking is extremely personal and something that changes day-to-day. Your pace is exactly that: your pace. Your choice of method: your method. I mentioned the hiker with the guitar, his choice. I think the Appalachian Trail and how you choose to experience it is one of the purest things left on earth. My grandmother once asked me, “why walk all those miles, what are you looking for”? I don’t know if there is an answer to the latter; however, the answer to the former is simple: walking makes me happy. Walking makes me truly and completely happy. Happiness: the stillness of the forest tempered with my heartbeat. Happiness: the filtered sunlight through iridescent deciduous canopy. Happiness: the crunch of new crystal clean snow underfoot. Happiness: reaching a ridge or summit. Happiness: calm silence. For the life of me, I don’t know why I am so chatty; “enjoy your journey, we can talk later”.

Once over the summit of Max Patch, you will pass through a one hundred yard long Rhododendron tunnel that intersects with the Buckeye Trail. With these steps, you experience your first taste of the “long green tunnel”, oft lauded and, perhaps, later despised, this Rhododendron tunnel is breathtaking. Soak it in, as you bask in the glory of the best the trail has to offer. Max Patch has so much going for it; you could spend an entire day exploring the base trails and summit. Even if you do not plan on undertaking a 200-mile trek, put Max Patch on your list as a place “not-to-be-missed” in the Appalachians near the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

On this your first day of the AT Hike 200, the first 6 miles from Max Patch to Lemon Gap are in the books and so far, so good. The terrain has been easy and, thus far, this hike is like a walk in your neighborhood park. It is time for Appalachian Trail lesson number one as you pass through Lemon Gap on the North Carolina – Tennessee border. It is the lesson of PUAD’s: Pointless Up and Down. I have seriously, roared at Myron Avery as I climb to yet another switch back turn, reach a ridgeline or crest and then, quickly descend. Thanks for the PUAD’s, Myron. Avery, who took Benton MacKaye’s dream of the Appalachian Trail, and with the help of a small group of volunteers and a machete, turned the trail into reality.

Avery said, "Remote for detachment, narrow for chosen company, winding for leisure, lonely for contemplation, it beckons not merely north and south but upward to the body, mind and soul of man."

Myron Avery, In the Maine Woods, 1934. 2 “Winding for Leisure”, well, hear this loud and clear; the A.T. is not a leisurely stroll. These first few miles may have you fooled; however, this trail is difficult, deceptively difficult, as it challenges both the body and the mind. So, here we are, your first climb along the Appalachian Trail: Lemon Gap to Walnut Mountain Shelter is about a mile-and-a-half in distance and the climb is around a 750-foot elevation gain. It is not the most challenging climb; however, it is the first in a long succession of climbing to be experienced over the next two weeks. You will get used to it, I actually prefer climbing over steep downhill hiking. The trail can be narrow as you climb to Walnut Mountain, stay to the high side or the upslope for solid footing. You will pass two really nice campsites, trailside, on the way to the shelter with a nice stream running nearby. If you need water, this is probably a great place to refill bottles or bladders; the water source at Walnut Mountain Shelter can be suspect, especially in the summer months. You are now 7.5 miles into your journey, if you’re still feeling spry, hike down through Kale Gap (another great campsite in the pines) and climb towards Bluff Mountain.

You will pass another good campsite at the top of the ridge, there is no water here; however, a nice fire ring and some large rocks for sitting around the fire are here to end your first day on the A.T. If you stopped at the Walnut Mountain Shelter your next northbound shelter is 10 miles away at Deer Park and Hot Springs, North Carolina is only three trail miles passed the Deer Park Shelter. Pace yourself accordingly and don’t overdo it; this is a journey, not a race. The Appalachian Trail from the summit of Bluff Mountain descends gently into Hot Springs, North Carolina through, most notably, Garenflo Gap with access to North Carolina Highway 209 via Gorenflo Gap Road. Hot Springs is home to the Hot Springs Spa, an experience not to be missed. An hour in the natural hot spring tub is around twenty-five bucks and worth every cent. There are several hostels in Hot Springs and a full service outfitter. Bluff Mountain Outfitters has a great selection of gear, supplies, and offers shuttles/transportation. Hot Springs is an Appalachian Trail Community and the first, actual, town you traverse as part of the A.T north of Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. In addition to the hostels, there are hotels, eateries, groceries, library, houses of worship, and the all important Post Office, Zip Code 28743. The Laughing Heart Hostel is a personal favorite of mine with great accommodation and reasonable rates. With the exception of the potential for crowds at Max Patch, this 20.6 mile section is southern Appalachian wilderness at its very best: quiet and pensive, free from human intrusion and sound. The only non-wilderness noise may come at night with the passing of a Norfolk and Southern train as it passes through the French Broad River Gorge in Hot Springs. If you want to consider or entertain a day-off or an “X-Day” in Hot Springs, you could arrange a trip to the Nantahala Outdoor Center in Walnut, North Carolina and float or raft the French Broad River.

2 Myron Avery, final report to Appalachian Trail Conference, 1952

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 15 Max Patch Road to Hot Springs

The Stile at State Route 1182 the southern terminus of the AT Hike 200. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/30, ISO-125.

Butterfly on Ironweed below Max Patch Summit. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/500, ISO-110.

The Summit Marker on Max Patch Mountain. Nikon D3100, F9, 1/250, ISO-100.

Northbound towards Garenflo Gap from Max Patch. Nikon D3100, F16, 1/80, ISO-100

The AT heading into the woods from Max Patch Summit. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/125, ISO-100

The Rhododendron Tunnel at the Buckeye Trail Intersection. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/60, ISO-3200

The trail leading to Roaring Fork Shelter. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/125, ISO-1250.

Roaring Fork Shelter. Nikon D3100, F13, 1/30, ISO-800.

The trail climbing Walnut Mountain in late summer. Nikon D3100, F5, 1/50, ISO-100

Self-Portrait at the campsite on Bluff Mountain. Nikon D3100, F11, 1/60, ISO-800.

Sunlight through the canopy north of Bluff Mountain. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/200, ISO-3200.

Approaching Garenflo Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-200.

Late summer wildflowers near Garenflo. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-200.

Blueberries near Garenflo. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-1400.

Garenflo Gap, NC 1914 Miles from Katahdin, ME. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/80, ISO-2200.

The Photographs: Taking Pictures of the Appalachian Trail When I first started documenting my trail journeys through photographs, I began looking for vistas, places that could be embellished through the lens. In the summer of 2012, I stumbled across a great pastoral scene near the Clyde Smith Shelter between Iron Mountain Gap and Hughes Gap south of the Roan Highlands. I was physically tired, albeit spent on a day hike climbing towards Roan High Knob.

I came upon a meadow with waves of native grass and stopped to relish the tranquility: as I sat down on the trail, I noticed the amazing difference this ground-level view afforded. I began to think I had stumbled upon something new: seeing the trail from a trail level viewpoint. It was an epiphany. A gentle breeze blowing, I lowered my Nikon D3100, set the f-stop on aperture priority as low as it would go and pressed the shutter: the outcome ranks as one of my favorites, ever, from the A.T. So peaceful, so perfect, it launched the quest that has become this book: documenting the trail from the perspective of the trail.

So, you will note that many of the photographs contained herein, document this two-hundred-mile journey literally from the perspective of the trail. Lower than our human eyes typically process a visual image: if the journey is the steps, about 2,000 per mile (yes, I have counted), then the world according to the trail is filled with wonder with every step. Thru-hikers miss a lot of the trail, blasting through mileafter-mile, chalking up miles rather than soaking up the beauty of each mile. I mentioned Charles, at the outset, my friend that exposed me to this new world, the Appalachian Trail. Charles plowed through the miles: one of the advantages of composing this book was traveling over miles I had already covered years ago with my friend. He kept his head down, glossing over the beauty of the trail; when a vista afforded, I would say to him, “now that is worth the price of admission”, rarely, if ever, would he acknowledge the view. I never understood that. The intention of the A.T. was never to keep ones head down and rack up miles; rather, it was to fellowship with the wilderness. So, I slowed down and snapped photo after photo, documenting the things missed by the average thru-hiker. Let us continue the journey from the groundup, step-by-step onward to Allen’s Gap, Tennessee.

The meadow near Clyde Smith Shelter

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 14 Hot Springs to Allen’s Gap 14.7 Miles

Section 14 is a section I return to time and again. I have taken church groups and beginners on a southbound hike from Mill Ridge near Tanyard Gap to the French Broad River in Hot Springs many times.

I affectionately refer to this 4.9-mile stretch of trail as: “super easy”. It is a very easy hike SOBO (southbound) and one I highly recommend; however, AT Hike 200 hikers are northbound and the climb out of Hot Springs is fairly challenging. The NOBO (Northbound) hiker will climb nearly 4,000 feet in this section. As a comparison, you climb less than 2,000 feet NOBO in Section 15 Max Patch to Hot Springs.

Spring Mountain Shelter, 11 miles from Hot Springs, may be a good destination for today. The water source at the shelter is usually good and the shelter is in decent condition given its age. I saw a male mountain bluebird at this shelter once, a brilliant solid blue, he just sat on a blackberry thicket branch; apparently, as intrigued with me as I was with him. I have never had the pleasure to see another. The 1,000-foot climb from the river out of Hot Springs to the intersection of the Lovers Leap Trail is, in a word, amazing. Breathtaking views of the gorge, river, and nearby Paint Rock are available here.

I love the sound of the French Broad River through here, especially in late summer. Once over the bridge in Hot Springs you will hike the edge of the river for several hundred yards with a few riverside campsites available. The NOBO hiker will switchback several times to reach the crest of the ridge, watch your footing through this area, especially in winter, as the trail has lots of loose rock and is exposed to the elements. I have decided my favorite month of the year to hike and camp is September, it’s the best: cool nights and, generally, clear warm days. September will feature some autumnal color change and wildflowers are still in abundance. This first part of Section 14 is a symphony of smell, sight, and sound in the late summer. If you can swing a hike of the AT Hike 200 in September, you will not be disappointed. At the top of the ridge you will cross through a rhododendron thicket and get one last look at the river on a leeward sandy slope; I once stepped over a very small, feisty copperhead snake on this slope, a rare snake sighting on the A.T. The trail descends gently through Pump Gap; then, climbs gently past the pond at Mill Ridge. Here you find a nice campsite and a boxed spring. Mill Ridge is a beautiful area very active with wildlife: songbirds, deer, grouse and wild turkeys frequent the meadows of Mill Ridge. The trail continues north toward Rich Mountain crossing U.S. 25/70 via the Tanyard Gap footbridge. In another 2 miles or so, you will climb to the intersection of a trail that will take you to the Rich Mountain fire tower. The Sharpie inscription on the 4 x 4 wooden post at this intersection says “worth it”, and it is. The fire tower has been out of service for years; however, the lookout post is still accessible. Many of the towers in this area have been destroyed or access to the lookout has been sealed.

The Rich Mountain fire tower affords 360° views, including downtown Asheville, North Carolina, Pisgah Mountain, and Mount Mitchell. You will also get your first glance, from here, at Big Bald and Unaka Mountain. The 0.1-mile detour is worth the effort don’t miss it. Besides, you just climbed over 2,000 feet from Hot Springs, North Carolina, take a break enjoy the view; remember, it’s a journey not a race. In a couple of miles you will cross Hurricane Gap Road USFS 31 and slowly climb to Spring Mountain Shelter.

This is basically the end to day three of the AT Hike 200 and if you continue past the shelter you will encounter a very steep downhill section and few, if any, campsites in the next 4 to 5 miles. The last mile descent to Allen Gap, I still refer to the “worst first”; a one-mile 850-foot ascent SOBO and I can’t explain it; however, it kicks my derriere every, single, time. Long uphill stretches without benefit of regular switchbacks, a true motivation killer at the beginning of a day hike. At this point, you cross US 70, the closest point to my hometown of Greeneville, Tennessee, about 12 miles to the west.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 14 Hot Springs to Allen’s Gap

Appalachian Trail North Carolina Roadway Marker on the French Broad River Bridge

Crossing the French Broad River in Hot Springs. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/160, ISO-100.

Overlook of Hot Springs, North Carolina near the Lovers Leap Trail Intersection. Nikon D3100, F16, 1/1250, ISO-3200.

The French Broad River. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/60, ISO-140.

The Pond at Mill Ridge. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/80, ISO-500.

Mill Ridge Wildlife Area. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/80, ISO-100.

The footbridge over US 25/70 at Tanyard Gap. Nikon D3100, F9, 1/100, ISO-100.

The Rich Mountain Fire Tower. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/250, ISO-100.

Spring Mountain Shelter. Motorola Droid, F2.8, 1/120. ISO-138.

Jon in a snow drift near Hurricane Gap, Tennessee. Sony DSC-H3, F8, 1/400, ISO-125.

Forest Service Road at Allen Gap. Sony DSC-H3, F4, 1/500, ISO-125.

Snowy slope near Allen Gap.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 13 Allen Gap to Devils Fork Gap 20.3 Miles

If you stayed at Spring Mountain Shelter near Hurricane Gap; perhaps, plan to hike to Jerry’s Cabin Shelter today, for a total of 15.4 miles. Jerry’s is a very busy shelter and the privy is an abomination; but, there are great tent sites all around this shelter and the water is very reliable here. This section is like home to me, my friends and I generally hike up from Round Knob on a 1.85-mile access trail to intersect with the A.T. not far from Jerry’s Cabin. The highlight of this section is the picturesque lengthy vista on Firescald Ridge. This section on the Appalachian Trail is absolutely stunning. By now, you have spent so much time hiking under the canopy that a section of trail with a view is a welcome change, especially one this magnificent. There are two other very short side trails that you should not miss in this section: the first is 3 miles north of the Little Laurel Shelter at White Rock Cliffs, about eight miles from Allen’s Gap, offering fantastic views of the mountains and valleys surrounding Hot Springs and Marshall, North Carolina. Plus, there is a great campsite near White Rock at Jones Meadow with plenty of water. The second short side trail worth consideration is known as Blackstack Cliffs, NOBO left-side trail, offering an open panorama 3,000 feet above the Tennessee Valley with northerly views toward Cumberland Gap in Kentucky.

At the beginning of section 13 you will cross U.S. Highway 70 at Allen’s Gap and in about a mile or so, the trail intersects with Log Cabin Drive where there is a great campsite; or, you could plan to stop at the Hemlock Hollow Hostel 0.5-miles north of the A.T. Fred and Hattie, veterans of A.T. sections in New Jersey and New York own Hemlock Hollow and their bunkhouse rivals anything you will encounter on the Appalachian Trail; the bunkhouse is heated, yes, I said, heated with room for eight. Showers are included in the bunkhouse price. They also have private cabins, a general store and full service kitchen with dining room. I think this is one of the finest things about the Appalachian Trail: it can be as remote and detached as you wish via tent or shelter. Or, when you need an emotional lift from a simple shower, email from home or, warm meal (that doesn’t include Ramen); it is readily available from a hostel or trail town.

It is about a 2,500-foot climb from Allen’s Gap to the crest of Camp Creek Bald, including one devil of a ridge past the Little Laurel Shelter. At Jones Meadow near White Rocks and beneath Camp Creek Bald you will pass a fantastic campsite with an excellent piped spring; however, be aware the trail on this crest can be under water during times of heavy rain. Once up and over the crest at Jones Meadow the trail takes on the rocky characteristics reminiscent of the Great Smokies for the next two miles. Over ledges, boulders, and cut stone you will intersect with a blue blazed bad weather trail; however, take the narrow ridge white blazed trail, weather permitting, for incredible views of the Black Mountains and Big Bald. It is about another mile hike from here to Jerry’s Cabin Shelter, a slight up and over Andrew Johnson Mountain. Out of camp, the next morning from Jerry’s the trail will pass through a really nice half-mile long open meadow and stay on the ridge crest passing “Big Butt” and the Shelton Grave site before turning abruptly to the east and, significantly, downhill. David Shelton, his nephew William, and their young lookout, Milliard Haire were ambushed and killed here by Confederate Troops on Coldspring Mountain during the Civil War. Every year a decoration day is held in their honor as hikers, horseback riders, and others journey from Horse Creek Recreation Area to decorate the Shelton graves of Coldspring. 3

3 Ron Metcalfe, http://www.pbase.com/ronmetcalfe/decoration_day

This twenty-mile section has a third shelter near Devils Fork Gap, the Flint Mountain Shelter built by the Carolina Mountain Club in the late 1980’s. The water here is reliable. The last 2.7 miles, of this section, to Devils Fork Gap are a real treat. Around the shelter and creek bed is an old growth forest that will, hopefully, grab your attention. A great deal of the forest adjacent to the Appalachian Trail appears to have been logged at one time or another, not so here. Ask why, no one seems to know why this old growth escaped the Logger’s hand. Apparently, growth near Shady Valley Tennessee may have also been spared the blade and be upwards of 400 years old according to Botanist Jamey Donaldson, these trees may rival that chronology. Large oaks and pines predominate through this short traverse of the trail.

Further, the trail in this section tends to be, naturally, more open which is a nice change too. You’re still under canopy; however, the absence of dense medium growth or undergrowth allows some ambient light to filter through the canopy top. It is also very quiet here; yet another thing to be thankful for as you refresh and renew on the AT Hike 200. Through Devils Fork and across TN 352 – NC 212, over a stile and through private pasture, congratulations, you have completed one-quarter of your trip and the best is yet to come.

Two Pack and Trail Magic

“Trail Magic” is any random act of kindness, either, received or given while on the Appalachian Trail. Very often trail magic is dispensed anonymously: at road crossings or gaps you often find gallon jugs of water and coolers filled with fruit. Hitching rides to and from towns at road crossings is, also, common practice for hikers and one of the best forms of trail magic. Suffice to say, trail magic is both planned and unplanned: it almost always provides the psychological boost necessary for survival as the miles grind on. A few years ago, now, I encountered an incredibly “ill-prepared” thru-hiker with the trail name, “Two Pack” along TN-NC Section 13 of the A.T. Two Pack had been so named for his 2 packs: one, a standard backpack with close to forty pounds; yet, another shoulder-strapped man bag sporting around twenty pounds. Apparently, from Springer northward, Two Pack, slight in stature and pitiful in demeanor, had been relying on the kindness of others to carry his shoulder bag. Averaging a mere oneand-one-half miles per hour, he was always blest with a fresh-crop of advancing thru hikers to his rescue.

By the time he had passed the 300-mile mark here in Greene County Tennessee, Two-Pack’s reputation for sharing the load had reached legendary proportions amongst the “thrus”. Fortunately for Two Pack spring had returned to the mountains of East Tennessee and so too, had the section hikers. Enter section hiker Joe Morris, trail name, “B.L.T.” So, named, not presumably for his favorite sandwich; however, dubbed, as such, for a propensity to smash his Big Left Toe on rocks and tree roots. Ouch. I met Two Pack around Log Cabin Road, and he was struggling mightily. No wonder, Two Pack’s man bag contained a quart of charcoal lighter fluid, lots of food, and some oversized cookware. I would later learn that the tent he carried in his backpack was a three-man tent. I was astounded, a three-person tent for a guy, 5’6” tall and weighing maybe 120 pounds. I felt really sorry for the guy. He had walked from Savannah, Georgia just to reach the trail in Springer, had written his kids for money; however, never received any assistance. So, I just couldn’t let the guy go on without something, some form of help or “trail magic”. I carried his lighter fluid and other unnecessary shoulder bag contents for about two miles and, then, I decided, I could loop back to Allen’s Gap, drive my truck from Allen’s to my house in Greeneville, retrieve my two-person tent (had to weigh less than a three-person, right?) and switch tents with Two Pack, voila, trail magic. After getting the tent, I drove back to the trail via Viking Mountain Road and I found him, again, near Blackstack Cliffs, as I repeatedly yelled, “Two Pack, where are you” at the top of my lungs. I am, now, headed southbound and pass a young lad, wanting to know how I had gotten hooked up with Two Pack. He basically tells me how, every thru-hiker has been completely taken advantage of by Two Pack and, now, he has resorted to taking daily advantage of unknowing section hikers, such as, B.L.T., on this particular day.

I finally found him, dragging his two packs, pathetically, up the rocky ledge near Camp Creek Bald.

Proudly, I requested he swap tents with me. Unfortunately, my heart sank as the physical exchange of shelters revealed the ugly truth: my tent weighed, just as much, if not more than his original. So, defeated, I simply held out my hand, hoisted his shoulder bag and walked with him across the rocks of Blackstack and, subsequent, impressive stonemason staircases to the clearing near the Round Knob Trail intersection. I talked to him about God and, we talked about his faith, his life, and disappointments. He told me, maybe, that’s why he was out here on the trail, to find God or least find peace. I was just glad the hiker behind us found my truck keys that had fallen out of my pocket while we climbed those aforementioned impressive stairs. “Anyone lost a set of car keys on a Tennessee Vols keychain”, I heard the hiker behind us say. I figured that was my trail magic for the day, and a sign to bid Two Pack goodbye, farewell, and good luck. I am guessing, Two Pack never made it to Katahdin, I saw a picture of him in central Virginia on Whiteblaze with no other mention of him anywhere on the website. I didn’t see him listed with the 2,000 milers for that year either, as published in “AT Journeys”, the magazine of the Appalachian Trail Conservancy. Perhaps, he found God or, at least, peace, somewhere short of Katahdin and that was worth the journey: for all of us.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 13 Allen Gap to Devils Fork Gap

Thru-Hikers head Northbound toward Little Laurel Shelter

The A.T. Near Jones Meadow. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/125, ISO-640.

Panorama from Blackstack Cliffs side trail.

Sunset from Blackstack. Nikon D3100, F9, 1/100, ISO-100.

Rock staircase to Firescald Ridge. Nikon D3100, F3.5, 1/13, ISO-320.

Vista of Western North Carolina from Firescald Ridge toward Devils Fork Gap. Nikon D3100, F13, 1/160, ISO-320.

Dusk from Firescald Ridge overlooking Greene County, Tennessee. Nikon F8, 1/30, ISO-1100.

Cliff taking a macro lens photograph of a mushroom near Firescald Ridge.

View of Camp Creek Bald from cleared field near Jerry Cabin Shelter.

Northbound Thru-Hikers trek through an open field near Jerry Cabin on the Appalachian Trail.

Big Butt

Old growth forest near Flint Mountain Shelter. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/30, ISO-160.

Trail view near Devils Fork Gap. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/30, ISO-320.

More of the “Long Green Tunnel” north of Flint Mountain Shelter

NC Highway 212 at Devil Fork Gap

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 12 Devil Fork Gap to Sams Gap 8.5 Miles

Our journey today will take us from Jerry’s Cabin, back in Section 13, to Hogback Ridge Shelter in Section 12, a nearly 15 mile day. Traveling down the crest of the Bald Mountains from Big Butt to Flint Gap is a significant leeward downhill trek through eroded red clay channels and an occasional reprieve in a Rhododendron tunnel. If attempted SOBO, this can be a wicked climb and terribly hot in the summer months without a significant stretch of shade. Across TN 352 – NC 212 and over an open pasture the A.T. crosses the ruins of former private residences. The only remnants of which are appliances strewn and entangled in undergrowth. The sounds of everyday life echo in these hollers, as you pass within just a few yards of a few rural residences along Pete Creek and Rector Laurel Roads. The trail begins a steady climb of over 1,500 feet toward Sugarloaf Gap and Lick Rock from the crossing at Rector Laurel Road.

This is one of the sections of the AT Hike 200 that, to me, is lackluster. Although, there are interesting rock formations at Big Flat and an open view of Sams Gap from the old apple orchard that are the highlights of this section. Also, I like the remnants of old farm fencing that parallels the trail at the northern end of this section. At High Rocks, you will see a wooden sign nailed to a tree, “Nice Vista, 200 Feet”. It is an overlook of the Unicoi County Tennessee valley, locals call, “Up the Valley Beautiful”. The last mile of Section 12, you hear the din of I-26, as passenger cars and commercial trucks remind you of the world left behind. The interstate pass under the bridge on Old Highway 19/23 at Sams Gap is the highest elevation of any interstate highway east of the Rockies. There is a great parking area here easily accessible by the Wolf Laurel exit off I-26. Pass through here quickly to ascend to the second major open grassy bald of the AT Hike 200, the open summit of Big Bald near Wolf Laurel. Hogback Ridge Shelter, where you will most likely spend this night, is about 2 and a-half miles from Sams Gap. Rest well, tomorrow will be a long day of hiking and climbing.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 12 Devil Fork Gap to Sams Gap

“Up the Valley Beautiful”. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/400, ISO-100.

The parking area at Sams Gap.

Ironweed adjacent to Interstate 26 at Sams Gap.

The Appalachian Trail near Sams Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-200.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 11 Sams Gap to Spivey Gap 13.3 Miles

You have two shelter choices for the dawning day: Bald Mountain Shelter in Section 11, a ten mile hike over the summit of Big Bald from Hogback or No Business Knob Shelter in Section 10, a twenty miler, from Hogback Shelter, with plenty of opportunities to over exert. Now, if I am planning a twenty plus mile day, I like the weather to be good, obviously, and I also like to start with a cold breakfast, break camp early and stop for a hot meal and a rest or siesta in the middle of the day. I plan days like this, quite a lot in summer months; it is nice to take that midday break, maybe change into dry socks, and get your energy levels built back to maximum before pressing forward. You are probably up to more than a ten-mile day; so, I would suggest at least making it to the Whistling Gap campsite, 13.5 miles from Hogback. That would be a big winter day, especially given the climbing up to and over Big Bald. If you felt a little under impressed with the previous section; then, Section 11 will pull you back into a mindset of what makes the A.T. superb in the first place. Highlights of Section 11 include: Street Gap around 2 miles from Sams Gap, Big Bald Summit and High Rocks. Today may be the most challenging day yet in your journey. Regardless of direction expect over 3,000 feet of climbing. This section was my second completed section on the Appalachian Trail back in 2008, a late afternoon hike in August with Charles, Jon and Spencer. Before the 13 miles were complete, I was begging my friends to leave me and let me “go back to the earth”. It was a terribly warm August afternoon, hazy and humid, making the 1,500-foot climb from Low Gap to Big Bald summit a real challenge. We stopped at the summit of Big Bald for a water break and snapped a photo; then, we headed northward toward Big Stamp when an oversized Ford SUV just drove straight past us and right over the Bald. Remember our thru-hiker grumbling about the power lines on Max Patch summit? I felt that same emotion as I watched that big rig bounce up Big Bald Road from the Wolf Laurel Ski Resort. The gate to the summit is locked most of the time; so, you shouldn’t encounter any traffic as you hike this section. Just in case, look both ways before crossing the gravel road. After Big Bald, you will next climb up and over, yet another place named, High Rocks. This one a massive rock outcropping that looms ominously from the junction sag to its south. Charles had to literally will me, step-by step over this place called High Rocks, I claimed a moral victory over its crest, only to turn abruptly east and quickly downhill, thanks again, Myron: another PUAD. Now, I completely understand that this section is glorious: difficult but fair, and the true A.T. trail template of risk-reward. I love the view from the summit of Big Bald, at over 5,500 feet above sea level; the panorama features the Smokies, Unaka Mountain, Camp Creek Bald, and Mt. Mitchell (the highest peak east of the Rockies). As a possible alternate place to spend this night, there is a good campsite at Whistling Gap and water nearby.

From Whistling Gap you are still seven miles from No Business Knob Shelter after crossing over US Highway 19W at Spivey Gap. Pace the days accordingly, you will definitely want to take a day off in Erwin, most likely at Uncle Johnny’s or one of the hotels in town.

Engineering Combustion

The winter of 2012 was exceptionally mild across the Blue Ridge. On Friday January 6, it was a clear crisp day in the 50’s and I took off to Big Bald with my camera in tow. I had knee surgery in October of 2011; so, I was still recovering, just enjoying short trail walks, nothing too ambitious. I drove through the guard shack of the gated Wolf Laurel Ski Resort and continued up Big Bald Road to the gravel parking area and locked gate below the summit. A short walk on a gravel road leads to the trail intersection. To the north of the summit on Big Stamp just the slightest skiff of snow laid on the trail, it was a perfect day, a brilliant blue cloudless sky. I saw three hikers coming over the summit at Big Bald, as they headed north I snapped a few photos as they approached with the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina as a background. Happy with the results, I said “hello” as they passed, told them to

“enjoy your day” and I slowly walked up to the summit. The panorama of the Smokies, to the southeast, was spectacular. I hoped the final outcome, the Photoshop Panorama, would prove just as impressive.

When I turned to walk back down the summit, I hit the shutter button a few more times, just to get a shot or two overlooking Big Stamp. I saw a flash and then, just a few wisps of smoke. Little by little, more and more smoke started to billow from the east side of Big Stamp. The three hikers I had just photographed were quickly coming back towards me and I started the short descent from Big Bald towards them.

When we met, they described how their canister stove had exploded and caught the thick native grass on fire. They tried to smother the blaze; however, the wind was just too strong and the entire bald was now on fire. There are private homes close to the Appalachian Trail here; development associated with ski resort. So, we scampered down Big Bald Road to my truck and drove until we had adequate phone service to call Madison County 911. Several volunteer firefighters eventually got to the scene and quickly controlled the fire. The firefighters seemed appreciative; the canister explosion had eliminated the need for a prescribed burn later in the season. No doubt a fishing trip or other outing could now be planned since the burn was no longer necessary. The Forest Service arrived to interview the young men, Engineering students out on an extended “Pre-Nuptial Bachelor Trip” from Tennessee Tech University, and they would later clear them of any wrongdoing in the incident. The Groom had his face burned when the canister exploded; he informed me after the wedding that his “face had healed just fine”. So, I imagine his future children will never see the effects of Big Stamp in any of the wedding photos. More good news, by the month of May, these seven acres of native grass had been transformed by four ounces of 80/20 isobutane and propane into a lush, green, healthy carpet.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 11 Sams Gap to Spivey Gap

Hikers head north through Street Gap towards Big Bald.

The students from Tennessee Tech traverse Big Bald. Nikon D3100, F5, 1/800, ISO-100.

Big Stamp from Big Bald Summit.

View from the summit of Big Bald. Nikon D3100, F4, 1/250, ISO-100.

Sunset on Big Bald. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/40, ISO-100.

High Rocks

The A.T. descending toward Spivey Gap. Sony DSC-H3, F3.5, 1/30, ISO-125.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 10 Spivey Gap to Nolichucky River 11.2 Miles

“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived” 4 - Henry David Thoreau

A few years ago, I was on a three-day, two-night outing from Sams Gap to Nolichucky River when I stopped for lunch on the edge of Oglesby Branch near Spivey Gap. I love this creek side climb over plank bridges, through rhododendron and ferns. I sat down on the trail to eat, when I saw a hiker named “Cookie Monster” coming up the slope. I had met Cookie Monster the preceding evening at the Bald Mountain Shelter: 19 years old and dubbed Cookie Monster because his mom would send him cookies to every mail drop along the A.T. A great group was at the shelter that night, including a retired NYC police officer into dehydrating food for trail meals that on this night included an entrée of dried salmon for his traveling companion, his dog. I also enjoy creating dehydrated meals, which is how the conversation started in the first place; I mumbled something about dried ground turkey, spices and ramen. That evening everyone else tried to enjoy his or her meal and not harbor contempt for the culinary pro and former law enforcement professional. After learning the canine was eating twelve dollar per pound seafood, we didn’t ask what he was eating that evening; nor, at that point, did we care. So, as I ate more Ramen the next day for lunch, Cookie Monster sat down next to me for a break near the branch. I looked at him and said, “This trail is hard on an old man”. Cookie said, “It’s the A.T. man, it’s hard on everyone”.

A five hundred foot climb greets you from Spivey Gap past Oglesby Branch after that the elevation in this section does not vary a great deal. No Business Knob Shelter lies in the middle of this section nestled in a thicket of pines with an abundance of great tent sites around the shelter. Water is generally available from the streams south of the shelter; however, in dry months these streams are not very reliable. If you need water Oglesby Branch is very reliable. I really like Section 10, far removed from the din of any industrial noise; it is a place where, in the overnight hours, you may hear coyotes on Temple Hill or owls serenading the night from the planks of the No Business Shelter. The slope of Temple Hill is a long open climb followed by the beginning of a magnificent 1,500-foot descent into the Nolichucky River Gorge. There are a handful of overlooks through pine and laurel into the gorge as you descend. You may even be fortunate enough to catch a passing Norfolk Southern coal train crossing the river as you wind down the trail, via switchbacks, to the intersection of Unaka Springs and River Hill Roads. Uncle Johnny’s Hostel and Outfitters is located trailside here at River Road. Uncle Johnny’s is legendary on the A.T. for accommodation, mail drops, shuttles, and frozen Snickers bars. I cannot speak of the service or experience at this hostel; however, I can tell you, I have either hiked or driven past Johnny’s dozens of times and you will always find groups of hikers on the covered front deck passing the day with a smoke and cold drink. For whatever that is worth; it seems to be a place where outdoor community has a cherished and protected legacy, in this unique gathering place. Erwin is home to Lou’s Hawg and Dawg Restaurant on Union Street, you will find some world class Barbeque at Lou’s with twelve different sauces of varying spice to satisfy every palate. Also, you might enjoy the Dari Ace in Erwin: established in 1960, they have fantastic cheeseburgers and old-fashioned milkshakes. Erwin is, also, home to the Nolichucky Nantahala Outdoor Center, trailside, where you can raft the Class 4 rapids of the Nolichucky River. Depending on your pace, this is the end of day seven or eight of the AT Hike 200 about 90 miles from the summit of Max Patch. After a well-deserved renewal in Erwin, your next stop is the Cherry Gap Shelter, in Section 9, 16.4 miles from the river bridge at Uncle Johnny’s.

4 “Walden; or, Life in the Woods”, Henry David Thoreau, 1854

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 10 Spivey Gap to Nolichucky River

View through the pines at Cliff Ridge. Sony DSC-H3, F8, 1/160, ISO-125.

Mixing the seasons on Temple Hill. Nikon D3100, F4.5, 1/250, ISO-100.

The Nolichucky River Gorge. Sony DSC-H3, F8, 1/200, ISO-125.

The A.T. on a crest above Uncle Johnny’s. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-200.

Chef: Laugh, Love, Live On Christmas Eve 2009, I met a young man named Josh, trail name: Chef, with his dog, Cherokee, that elevated my appreciation for the Appalachian Trail forevermore. Chef was a Southbound hiker (SOBO) adorned in knee high O.R. Gaiters, who at the beginning of our verbal exchange, at Jerry’s Cabin, sounded like any other Appalachian Trail Thru-Hiker: Chef was beating the odds, 1,876 miles complete heading SOBO and alone, he looked tired, indeed, very tired. In his late twenties or early thirties, Chef was a determined young man with piercing stare, who relished each day on the A.T., raising cancer awareness along the way with his “Hike for Hope Blog”. Chef had embarked on a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail after more than a year battling stage three-colon cancer. It was one time when I listened more than I spoke. Chef described how difficult the chemotherapy had been, how much weight and muscle mass he’d lost, and how He had longed to get back to his church: nature, where he felt closest to God. Having lost my father to bile duct cancer just a few years before meeting Chef, I could relate to and have compassion for so much of what he had experienced. He had embraced each day since his surgery and chemo with humbleness and gratefulness. What a wonderful gift I received from talking to Chef that Christmas Eve. Afterward, I followed Chef on Trail Journals, he finished the Trail; I knew it, I knew with certainty Chef would finish the journey. After Chef finished the A.T., I continued to follow his updates; unfortunately, less than a year after completing his hike Chef had a “set back and further testing would be required”. After that announcement on his website: nothing. A web search will still result in a few random links to Chef; I can only hope he made it through this battle. One of his longest video entries on You Tube is entitled: “Laugh, Love, Live”. “Laughing cause he’s exhausted, Loving being out here (on the trail), and Living cause He’s still here and out here, where He loves to be. Life is Good.” Thank you Chef, respectfully, until we meet again.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 9 Nolichucky River to Iron Mountain Gap 19.1 Miles

Begin hiking Section 9 by crossing the Nolichucky River on the Chestoa Bridge, back into the woods through the white blaze portal from Jones Branch Road and soon, across the railroad tracks climbing the slope above the gorge. Roughly two miles past the Chestoa Bridge you will skirt around the edge of the N.O.C. Nolichucky rafting outposts, a quick left turn and off you go deeply immersed in and, no doubt, comfortable now with the long green tunnel. The trail stays on the edge of Jones Branch for a couple of miles, gently climbing past ruins of stone walls, and flat spots that had to have been gardens and homesteads. You will cross three footbridges, the third having the most reliable pool for water in this area. There are some nice fire rings and camping spots on Jones Branch. This section always makes me nostalgic about my grandfather, Bige Morgan. Born in 1898, “Granddaddy” built terraced garden spaces, split rail fences, and cabins, all by hand, in the backcountry of Leslie County, Kentucky. He never drove a vehicle, although he worked as a shaker building some of the first mountain roads in this part of the world; my granddaddy walked everywhere. This is a man who once carried a one-hundred-pound bag of brown sugar over a mile through six-inches of snow up Morgan Lane during the Great War to bring “sweetness” to his family: suffice to say, I think of him often, sharing the miles with him, as I walk on the Appalachian Trail. That shared experience is especially significant here on Jones Branch, where men just like, my grandfather, Bige Morgan provided for their families. Undoubtedly, these were men of character and simplicity, carving out a life of satisfaction from stone, timber, and earth.

The Tennessee Eastman Hiking and Canoeing Club is responsible for maintenance from Spivey Gap (US 19W) to Damascus, Virginia and the new Curley Maple Gap Shelter, renovated by the TEHCC in 2010, is a fantastic double deck platform shelter. The remainder of the trail to Indian Grave Gap, TN 395, is fairly level and an easy go. Nice campsites exist throughout this section with periodic overlooks of Erwin, Tennessee through a rhododendron-laced ridge. Across Indian Grave Gap you begin a climb to another one of those fantastic open summits that make the Tennessee - North Carolina segment of the A.T. so beautiful; indeed, to a place appropriately named, Beauty Spot. There is a caveat with respect to Beauty Spot; do not camp on the summit. The summit is easily accessible to the town of Erwin, Tennessee via TN 395 and Forest Service Road 230. Unfortunately, since the summit is easy to reach, it does attract some undesirable activity. Recently, crews have removed a wonderful old split rail fence from the parking area and built earthen berms fortified with large boulders and a moat to keep vehicles off the summit. There are some great campsites and a spring to the north of the summit about a half-amile down the trail. If you camp at these sites wake up early to catch an amazing sunrise from the summit of Beauty Spot. Also, the sunset over the Bald Mountains from here is spectacular. Since we took a day off in Erwin we’ve already determined that Cherry Gap Shelter, 16 miles from Uncle Johnny’s, may be a good destination for today. The most challenging part of the day will come to the north of Beauty Spot as you climb to the summit of Unaka Mountain. The climb to the emerald forest summit of Unaka is about 1,000 feet in one mile. It is another one of my favorite places along the At Hike 200. Unaka is no longer an open summit; however, at over 5,000 feet above sea level the summit is filled with a lofty, dense, ethereal evergreen forest that is breathtaking. The irresistible scent of pine will transport you to your favorite Christmas memory even in the dead heat of summer. You are a couple miles from Cherry Gap, mostly downhill to Low Gap, ending another great day of hiking in the Southern Appalachians. You are quickly approaching the crown jewel of the AT Hike 200: the Roan Highlands. Start checking the weather forecasts; seriously, you do not want to simply blow past Roan Highlands. From Cherry Gap you are about 16 miles from Carvers Gap near the popular Roan Mountain State Park and you will, likely, get there the following day.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 9 Nolichucky River to Iron Mountain Gap

115.2 Miles from Uncle Johnny’s to Damascus, Virginia.

Norfolk Southern bridge in the Nolichucky River Gorge. Nikon D3100, F29, 1/6, ISO-280.

Tubing on the Nolichucky. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/30, ISO-160.

Autumn in the Nolichucky River Gorge.

Warning to Hikers approaching Beauty Spot

Butterfly in a meadow north of Beauty Spot.

Beauty Spot Sunrise. Nikon D3100, F11, 1/30, ISO-140.

Winter sunset at Beauty Spot. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/15, ISO-450.

Approaching the summit of Unaka Mountain. Nikon D3100, F4, 1/400, ISO-160.

The Emerald Forest on Unaka. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/400, ISO-450.

The northern boundary of the Emerald Forest. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/100, ISO-360.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 8 Iron Mountain Gap to Hughes Gap 9.1 Miles “May our sons and daughters find health and happiness and beauty up there as we have found it, may they still hold in reverence the sacred peaks of the Cherokees, may they find joy in the strength of the hills and in the secrets that the valleys hold. The unbroken wilderness with a long, tiny trail stretching through it for other generations to know; is our dream”. 5 Charles N. Elliott

This section follows a fairly easy grade; with a notable exception of ascents prior to the access trail to Clyde Smith Shelter and the scramble up Little Rock Knob. However, by now you are so used to the elevation changes that simple ascents such as these barely registers on your radar. As a section hike, Section 8 is also one of my favorites because the loop mileage can be easily accomplished in one day, regardless of season. The southern terminus of this section crosses TN 107/NC 226 near Buladean, North Carolina; a busy highway with a limited view around the curve, use care as you attempt to cross the highway and hike onto Hughes Gap. There are some really nice features in this section: the old apple orchard near Iron Mountain Gap and native grass meadows, a few miles north of the gap, near the cliffs with nice views to the north and east. It is easy to chalk this section up as “just another A.T. Section”; however, I encourage you not to do that with this section. There is a wonderful simplicity about this section that makes the miles shine. I once did this portion of the A.T. in the early winter with 50 mile per hour wind warnings in the valley just because I knew the slopes would provide protection from those winds. It is glorious: once again quiet and removed. If you slow down enough to absorb the magnitude of the wilderness that surrounds you: I promise you will love this section. There is a hostel in this section; access to which is trailside right at Greasy Creek Gap called Greasy Creek Friendly. Members of my trail club say the owner CC is congenial; however, the neighbor across the way is less than hospitable to hikers. She (CC) is there if you need a place to stay. The overlooks at Little Rock Knob and the panoramic views of the entire Roan Highlands to Hump Mountain are winter highlights of this section. The views of Hump, Jane Bald, Round Bald, and Roan High Knob are especially magnificent in the winter season after traversing the laurel tunnel and boulder field about 2 miles south of Hughes Gap. There are two or three good campsites in this section of trail and water is available and reliable throughout.

5 Friendships of the Trail: The History of the Georgia Appalachian Trail Club 1930-1980, 1995, p.336

“A great place to bleed to death” - Dr. M. Rogers Hurricane Sandy pelted the Northeastern United States in late October 2012 and in the wraparound aftermath the Southern Appalachians received upwards of two feet of snow. This storm caused considerable damage on the A.T. Hike 200. The day after Thanksgiving, I flipped a coin to determine whether a day clearing blow downs and woody growth was in order; or, maybe, just maybe, I could opt for a Black Friday shopping spree. Thankfully the coin landed on tree cutting, I would have called best two out of three had it not. So, off to the woods we go in search of trail impediments to be slashed and dashed from the footpath. There was a threat of rain and snow so I donned my Montbell rain pants and eVent rain jacket and headed southbound from Hughes Gap toward Greasy Creek Gap in Section 8. Unlike other sections I had scouted since Hurricane Sandy this section of trail was remarkably clear, just a few minor blow downs and some woody growth that needed trimming, nothing major. Five SOBO thru hikers had gone past me in the early morning hours and all had stopped at Bob Peoples’ Kincora Hostel along the journey where they were treated to Bob’s famous hospitality and storytelling.

“Shake”, one of the hikers, had even announced he would see me at Damascus Hardcore in the spring as he bolted by me trimming away at some laurels. Damascus Hardcore is a spring event associated with “trail days” where hikers are encouraged to return to the Southern Appalachians for an intense trail rehab or relocation project. Bob never misses an opportunity to extend an invite to Hardcore. It takes a gargantuan effort to maintain the A.T. and hikers do appreciate that effort. This is how we belong: belong to the trail and to each other. Our shared experience and respect for their journey and the Appalachian Trail. Hiker number five past me in a faded Alabama Crimson Tide logo baseball styled cap, I told him with a wink to pick up the pace in order to get to Uncle Johnny’s by the next afternoon to enjoy “The Iron Bowl”, the annual game between in state rivals Auburn and Alabama. I had crossed the summit at Little Rock Knob heading southbound by 11:00 a.m. and pondered a lunch stop at Clyde Smith Shelter before heading to Greasy Creek Gap. It was a simple five-mile in with a quick turnaround at Greasy Creek and a return five-miler to reevaluate my morning pruning. Alabama wasn’t 10 minutes away (a lifetime on the trail) when I cut a one-inch sapling with my Corona Razor Saw that I thought might be a future problem.

The sapling snapped prematurely and the momentum of the ten-inch blade punctured the left shin of my Montbell rain pants about four inches below my kneecap. At first I was grieving over the puncture marks in the rain pant, after all, I had just purchased them a month before. “Crap, now they will leak”, that’s what I thought. I never thought they’d leak blood, from the inside. I pulled down the rain pant and blood was gushing and pooling from the puncture wounds. I admit, I freaked out. I had no clue how bad the cut actually was. I threw off my backpack and found virtually nothing that would assist in this situation. I had dressed in a base layer of Icebreaker 150 long-john’s that were soaked in blood. I pulled down the rain pants and base layer to my ankles and found some toilet paper in my pack and applied pressure to the wound. “Crap, now what am I going to do”? Fortunately, I had phone service and called my friend, Jon (an avid hiker and medically trained). The bleeding had stopped and, again fortunately, he was near Roan Mountain on an annual Christmas tree trek. When the call connected, I attempted to remain calm; but, I must admit, I was unnerved. I described the injury and Jon told me to sit tight, he would go to a local pharmacy and hike in to my location as soon as possible. For the next two-hours I lay prostrate under a gnarled elm tree afraid to move without a medical assessment. “How stupid could I be to have left my shin guards at home”? “What if my friend wasn’t available”? “Then what”? My phone rang, the familiar chorus of Rush’s “Tom Sawyer”: Jon had reached the summit of Little Rock Knob. “Hey man, I’m at an overlook with a downhill stretch, am I in the right vicinity”? I pulled the phone away from my mouth and yelled to the top of my lungs: “I am down here”. A distant and, yet, familiar voice echoed back.

As he assessed the damage, I felt relieved and, yet, unworthy that my friend would do this for me. I would do it for him and countless others if required; nevertheless, I felt humbled, grateful, and blessed as the remaining leaves teetered and indicated rain or snow soon approached over the Unaka range. Wound cleaned and dressed it was time to hike back over Little Rock Knob. Once past the summit, the familiar range of the Roan Highlands appeared, Jon’s father, who had come along for the trek exclaimed: “this is a great place to bleed to death”. Indeed. A great place indeed.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 8 Iron Mountain Gap to Hughes Gap

One of my favorites from the trail. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-280.

The meadow near Greasy Creek Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/50, ISO-100.

The trail winding from Iron Mountain Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-140.

Orchard near Iron Mountain Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/125, ISO-100.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 7 Hughes Gap to Carvers Gap 4.8 Miles

Section 7 of the Tennessee – North Carolina portion of the Appalachian Trail has seen some major changes in 2012. The TEHCC has been doing some major trail relocation in this section including areas around Beartown Mountain at mile 1.3 NOBO to the site of the old Cloudland Hotel at NOBO mile 2.6.

This portion of the trail historically climbed over 2,200 feet northbound with some challenging log steps; I used this section because of its difficulty to prepare for a summit attempt on Mt. St. Helens in July of 2010. It is a shadow of its former self with respect to difficulty of grade. The relocation has removed most of the extreme log steps and routed around most of the more eroded sections; however, this side of Roan from Hughes Gap can be very wet and rocky especially near the Cloudland ridge crest. The weather on Roan is highly unpredictable and it is one of the highest peaks in the eastern United States, the thick coniferous forest is often windy and shrouded in clouds. The signage at the visitor center in the Roan Mountain State Park, 8 miles away on Highway 143, claims Roan is the “crown jewel of Tennessee’s state parks”. It really would be hard to argue against it. Roan attracts visitors year round and it is extremely rare not to find vehicles at the parking area at Carvers Gap. The day after Thanksgiving in 2009, my friend Jon and I went to Carvers to hike across to 19E, the wind was blowing so hard that Jon was physically blown over on the climb to Hump Mountain. It was snowing sideways and bitterly cold that day. That is the only day I haven’t seen a vehicle parked at Carvers Gap. Draw your own conclusions. On the way out of Hughes Gap the trail climbs steadily through a side hill section over plenty of rock and the trail remains quite rocky on this side of the Highlands passing Ash Gap to the ridge crest at the former site of the Cloudland Hotel built in 1884. You will, no doubt, understand where the name Cloudland originated as you traverse the ridgeline here. At the top of the ridge there is a prominent side trail to a pair of restrooms and water during the warmer months. This is a parking area for the Roan Highlands Rhododendron Gardens: a very busy place, especially in June during the Rhododendron Festival. I started coming up here, to this section of trail, in the late 1970’s with my friend Danny to fill gallon jugs with spring water. The spring at Roan High shelter had the best tasting water on God’s earth; at least, it seemed that way to a 17-year-old boy. To this day, this spring is very reliable, one of the most reliable on the AT Hike 200. The last couple of miles on the ridge navigate through an alpine space at over 6,000 feet above sea level. This segment of dense canopy space is wonderful respite from hiking while looking down and watching each and every northerly step. The trail here has been relocated with fine aggregate and crusher stone and affords some smooth sailing under foot. The canopy space is quiet and the scent of evergreen is exhilarating. There is a large, fully enclosed shelter here, Roan High Knob, which is used by hikers and frequented by non-hikers; therefore it can be overused and disrespected. The next northbound shelter is the Stan Murray Shelter, trailside left, about 5 miles from Roan High Knob between Jane Bald and Yellow Gap. At Yellow Gap is the Overmountain Shelter, a converted barn reminiscent of a bunkhouse for its spaciousness and it is the largest shelter on the AT Hike 200; this should probably be your destination of choice from Cherry Gap Shelter, nearly 22 miles navigated this the ninth day of the AT Hike 200. The spring at Overmountain is, generally, reliable and it is one of “those places” where you really must spend a night on the Appalachian Trail. I have hiked up from Hampton Creek Cove off Sugar Hollow Road (The Overmountain Victory Trail) to the Yellow Gap Intersection and it is an amazing hike.

The Overmountain Victory Trail follows the footpath American Colonial Militia used on their way to Kings Mountain and Revolutionary War victory. The Overmountain Shelter has a lofted sleeping space and a fantastic “porch” from which to watch the sunrise. Don’t miss this.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 7 Hughes Gap to Carvers Gap

Winter sunset just north of Hughes Gap. Nikon D3100, F4.5, 1/160, ISO-100.

Roan Rhododendrons in bloom. Nikon D3100, F11, 1/30, ISO-1600.

The Appalachian Trail in Cloudland on Roan Mountain. Sony DSC-H3, F3.5, 1/10, ISO-400.

A scan of a photograph I took with a 35 mm camera in 1980 on one of my “water-runs� to the spring near Roan High Knob Shelter. The trail has been relocated since this photo.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 6 Carvers Gap to US 19E 13.7 Miles

This section of trail is by far, based on personal observation, the most used section of the A.T. in your hike of the AT Hike 200. As I stated earlier, only once in the last 30 years have I never seen another vehicle parked at the Carvers Gap parking area. In fact, most days, the parking area is filled to overflowing. The trail from Carvers northbound over Round Bald has been covered with several tons of gravel and compacted to make the going easy for the “summit seekers”. This section of trail was relocated about 15 years ago, into an alpine space that is in a word: glorious. Very wet and susceptible to ice in the late fall and winter, the first half mile will navigate through rhododendron and spruce with amazing lichen sprays adorning the evergreens. A few years ago, I spent a day hiking the first three miles of this section and snapped over 750 photographs; this is some kind of amazing section of trail. Late in the summer of 2012, I gave three hikers a lift down Erwin’s Main Street: one from Massachusetts, one from Virginia, and the other from Florida. One of my standard questions to hikers now is, “what is your favorite section thus far”? These three were SOBO thru-hikers and the lad from Massachusetts exclaimed without hesitation, “the Roan Highlands is the most magnificent section south of the White’s in New Hampshire”. Call it validation or, perhaps, verification; the Roan Highlands is one very special place on the Appalachian Trail. Traverse over Round Bald and through Engine Gap up and over Jane Bald, this is without a doubt the most picturesque section of the AT Hike 200. If this doesn’t stir your soul; well, again, draw your own conclusion. Round Bald, Jane Bald, Hump Mountain, Overmountain Shelter, and Stan Murray Monument all lie within this section of trail. Maybe you have been reading this and looking at the photos and said to yourself, “ I couldn’t possibly hike for two weeks or for 200 miles”. Then, I encourage you to put Section 6 on your “bucket list” and give it a go. This section is simply the archetype for everything that is great about hiking in this part of the world. Or, to put it another way, if you don’t fall in love with this section of trail, perhaps, the Appalachian Trail is just not for you. Is that a bold statement? Perhaps. However, no matter the season, this stretch of trail gives you everything you could want and more. A wonderful side trail exists here: the Grassy Ridge Trail. Grassy Ridge is a slight detour, trailside right, after the summit of Jane Bald with an amazing view of Grandfather Mountain. Pass Jane Bald and the Grassy Ridge intersection and start the gradual decent to Yellow Gap and the Overmountain Shelter. From here you will navigate through Bradley Gap and ascend Little Hump Mountain and Big Hump Mountain. The winter wind can rip over these balds with great voracity and this is not a place to tarry in stormy weather. The open views of Grandfather Mountain and the surrounding countryside in this area are magnificent. A gradual descent off Big Hump Mountain passing the Stan Murray Monument offering an extended vista is the next exhilarating visual. You will slip back into the woods after passing through a split rail fence encountering a significant rocky downhill stretch to US 19 E between Roan Mountain community and Elk Park, North Carolina. The trail descends about 2,500 feet from Hump to 19E and you need to watch your footing to the open fields of Doll Flats over large hewn rock and roots; the steps can be tricky at best here. Also, water is scarce here so plan accordingly. The open meadows of Doll Flats overlook Christmas tree farms near Elk Park and you will find a great campsite, trailside right, after passing a wooden sign that advises you are “leaving North Carolina”. The A.T. begins a northerly compass trek advancing towards the Iron Mountain ridge from here. Near the 19E road crossing is the Mountain Harbor Bed and Breakfast with a Hikers Cabin and one of the best breakfasts on the AT Hike 200. Also, parking a vehicle at the Mountain Harbor is a safer alternative than leaving a vehicle adjacent to the trail just off 19E in the event you are planning a section hike in the Roan Highlands. There are many vistas and beautiful vegetation featured in an abundance of photographs from section 6. As I said earlier, easily the most photogenic section of your entire journey: I hope you will enjoy the following presentation from The Roan Highlands.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 6 Carvers Gap to US 19E

The steps from TN 143 at Carvers Gap. Nikon D3100, F5, 1/8, ISO-1400.

Round Bald view towards Iron Mountain. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/125, ISO-100.

Big Hump and Little Hump Mountain from Grassy Ridge. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/160, ISO-100.

The A.T. Near Stan Murray Shelter. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/30, ISO-220.

Hump Mountain and Grandfather Mountain from Grassy Ridge. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/200

The trail north of Stan Murray. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/30, ISO-160.

Yellow Mountain Gap at the Overmountain Trail intersection. Nikon D3100, F3.8, 1/1250.

The Overmountain Shelter and Roan Highlands. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/250, ISO-100.

Roan Highlands from Little Hump Mountain. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/250, ISO-100.

Grandfather Mountain. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/640, ISO-100.

Roan Highlands from Little Hump Mountain. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/640, ISO -100.

The Stan Murray Monument on Hump Mountain.

Beautifully constructed rock steps north of Doll Flats. Nikon D3100, F4.5, 1/40, ISO-100.

The A.T. North of Doll Flats. Nikon D3100, F4, 1/40, ISO-100.

Sunlight filters through the canopy south of the location of the old Apple House Shelter.

Summer fades away in the Roan Highlands. Nikon D3100, F5.3, 1/40, ISO-100.

Leaving North Carolina at Doll Flats

Turtle Hare and The Goat Project

Each summer Jamey Donaldson a.k.a. “Turtle Hare” is the keeper of the Goats on Roan. Turtle Hare is a botanist by trade turned goatherd by the warm summer breezes; however, my guess is he might be better dubbed “The Aficionado of Roan”. I met Turtle Hare on a warm mid-September day in 2011.

Effervescent and amicable, Turtle was carrying info on the Goat Project to the Goat Info Mailbox near Jane Bald on this amazing late summer day. It seems Jamey is in charge of a small herd of mountain goats, borrowed from Todd Eastin, Chief Coordinator of Caprine Conservationists, of Shady Valley, Tennessee, as they browse the balds of Roan Highlands. Goats preferentially browse on the woody plants of the balds as opposed to primarily grazing on the grass of the balds. This eco-friendly method protects the balds naturally as the woody vegetation is consumed by the goats allowing the native grasses to flourish. 6 Turtle Hare is one of the most interesting personalities I have encountered on the trail. He exudes a genuine kinship with the mountain he claims as a summer residence. This is a common trait in the most notable or memorable characters I have had the pleasure to converse with on the trail. I think in order to fully appreciate your hiking experience you must develop this kinship. Long distance hiking is inevitably about completing the requisite miles; however, it is the experience and the appreciation of those miles that will ultimately determine the degree of satisfaction derived from the journey. Meeting Turtle Hare solidified my own hypothesis about observation being the primary goal of the trail experience. The simple act of placing one foot in front of the other leads to accumulation of miles and the completion of the task. However, the distance traveled does not provide the mold for the quality of the experience. You can find more information on the Goat Project on Roan and adopt-a-goat at the following websites: “The Baa-Tany Blog” http://baatanygoatproject.blogspot.com/ “Friends of Roan” http://www.friendsofroanmtn.org/ I contacted Jamey for info on the Baatany Project as I was writing the body of the text for the AT Hike 200 and he shared the following: “Some mountains are perfect, others are covered with trees: Baatany Goat Project, helping keep Roan's Natural Balds Bald Naturally”. Jamey “Turtle Hare” Donaldson and The Baatany Goat Project another fantastic part of the Roan Highlands experience.

6 Jamey Donaldson, Written Request for Clarification 12/9/2012

Great Pyrenees Guard Dogs, Baxter and Bean, with the only kid born in the Roan Highlands in 2012. Sadly, Bean passed away before Christmas 2012. Photo courtesy: Jamey Donaldson. Below, the goats of the Baa-tany Project hard at work.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 5 US 19E to Dennis Cove 23.8 Miles

On this day, probably day number ten of the hike, after your descent off Hump Mountain and approximately 2 miles after crossing US 19E is a gentle climb through an open pasture and one of my alltime favorite views on the AT Hike 200: another view of the panorama of the Roan Highlands. This view is particularly satisfying after completing the Highlands traverse. At some point, as the miles pass, you will undoubtedly begin to “feel the trail”. Perhaps this does not adequately describe the experience. The A.T. typically follows ridgelines and especially the ones generally associated with the higher ranges in your sightline. As you descend to gaps and road crossings, if you are afforded a view of the surrounding ridges, you will begin to sense that you are preparing to climb to that next ridge within view. This is almost always true. This is what I mean by the experience of “feeling the trail”. The A.T., in many places, follows old logging roads, wagon roads, and footpaths used by earlier inhabitants of this region. So, as you get used to hiking the trail and observing the landscape you begin to make assumptions about the next stretch of trail and where it might be taking you. Imagine yourself an early pioneer attempting to navigate the mountain passes and blazing a path of least resistance from point A to point B. So, this pasture is a favorite of mine because you can view the Highlands and bask in an appreciation for where you have been. Magnificent. The trail turns sharply to the left at the top of the open field and back into the woods to a summit before a descent past a small cemetery near Buck Mountain Road.

At this point in your journey, I am going to abandon my earlier approach for a suggested daily shelter destination. My initial plan was to create a hiking experience that could be completed within a 14-day period. No doubt you are in great trail condition by now and the early climbs in the hike may seem inconsequential or, at least, the degree of difficulty associated with that climbing is all but a distant memory. Therefore, from this point forward, I will point out notable destinations along the trail and you should use your own judgment about a suitable start and endpoint for each day. If we use Overmountain Shelter as a starting point for your tenth day of the hike you are about 80 miles from the terminus of the AT Hike 200 in Damascus, Virginia. The final 40 miles of the AT Hike 200, from the area around Watauga Lake at US 321, is a fairly easy ridge run with a few moderate climbs. Therefore, you should be able to knock out those miles with relative ease and finish the entire journey within a 14-day window. Now, let’s flip back to Buck Mountain Road and finish Section 5. You will cross Buck Mountain Road near the Buck Mountain Baptist Church with a slight downhill ramble towards Campbell Hollow Road then through remnants of a Christmas tree farm that was never harvested. The highlights of the first few miles of this section include: Jones Falls NOBO trailside right (on a 0.1-mile access trail) and the parallel walk next to the banks of the Elk River. Jones Falls is an impressive 100-foot waterfall in Carter County Tennessee. It is a series of cascades with the most impressive water flow being just out of sight, from the spur, at the top of the ridge. Perhaps, most impressive about Jones Falls are the rock formations that direct the cascade. This is a nice place to stop during the summer months for a shady cool lunch break. The first time I went to Elk River I absolutely fell in love with the place. The river is a shallow slow moving stream that headwaters near the Seven Devils area of North Carolina. 7 It is very easy to walk through the river and too much of a temptation to pass up in the heat of summer. I always wanted to come back here and fly fish; if I could only stop hiking and doing trail maintenance long enough to practice casting. Anyway, a couple of years ago the meadow along side the river was being maintained by the NFS and you could not ask for a more picturesque spot to camp. My recent trips to Elk River have been somewhat disappointing as the briars and weeds have grown rampantly along the riverbank since the Forest Service stopped mowing this pass. The members of my trail club keep telling me this section is available for adoption.

7 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elk_River_(North_Carolina)

I think I would simply build a cabin and keep my sickle sharpened; it would take a monumental effort to keep this area clear. It ‘s a shame really because it truly is a beautiful and peaceful place. Mountaineer Falls Shelter a relatively new three-tiered shelter, which would sleep up to 20 in a pinch, lies between Elk River and Walnut Mountain Road with a great water source. Another shelter, Moreland Gap is about 9 miles NOBO from Mountaineer. Also, there is a fantastic camping site about 100 yards past the footbridge at Upper Laurel Fork between these shelters. There are an inordinate amount of laurels in this section especially after you cross USFS 293 at Bitter End through the area adjacent to Hardcore Cascades. I know this because of the post storm tangles that have to be removed. Perhaps, I should mention that in the winter you should, unfortunately, expect some bushwhacking or plowing through blowdowns especially after heavy snows. Sorry but it is not all ice cream and roses out here on the trail kids. Next stop Dennis Cove, home to the Kincora Hostel owned by Bob Peoples. Bob is the stuff of trail legend and his Hostel is a destination for many hikers along the A.T. for a variety of reasons. The ceiling of the common area of Kincora is a montage layered with hundreds of photographs of the hikers and trail maintainers that have stayed at Bob’s Hostel. Don’t miss this. Stop at Kincora, the AT Hike 200 would not be complete without a NOBO trailside left detour to visit with Mr. Bob Peoples.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 5 US 19E to Dennis Cove

The Roan Highlands from a vantage point south of Buck Mountain Road. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/200, ISO-100.

“Halloween Tree” near Buck Mountain. Nikon D3100, F11, 1/100, ISO-100.

The Appalachian Trail near Bishop Hollow. Nikon D3100, F4.5, 1/30, ISO-280.

Mushroom near Campbell Hollow Road. Nikon D3100, F5.3, 1/30, ISO-3200.

Hornets Nest on the side trail to Jones Falls. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-1250.

Jones Falls in Carter County, Tennessee. Nikon D3100, F4.8, 1/20, ISO-125.

Elk River. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/30, ISO-360.

“Spinner� enjoying the irresistible waters of the Elk River.

“After the Rain” at Elk River. Nikon D3100, F22, 1/30, ISO-400.

The Roan Highlands from the “Vango” Memorial Bench, Sony DSC-H3, F8, 1/100.

“SOBO 404”. Sony DSC-H3, F4, 1/125, ISO-125.

Mushrooms on the way to Dennis Cove. Nikon D3100, F5, 1/30, ISO-160.

Nikon D3100, F5.3, 1/80, ISO-100.

Views close to Canute Place. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/200, ISO-100.

Remnants from the old farm near Dennis Cove. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/60, ISO-800.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 4 Dennis Cove to Watauga Dam Road 13.1 Miles

Section 4 is home to the most impressive water feature on the entire AT Hike 200: Laurel Fork Falls. The falls are a very popular day hike for many residents of the Upper East Tennessee area.

Therefore, expect crowds on the weekends especially during the summer. As you begin Section 4 you will enter the Pond Mountain Wilderness Area and travel for about a mile on a smooth level grade adjacent to a mountain stream. Great campsites abound in this area and water is very reliable. You will cross Koonford Bridge next; a bridge scheduled for replacement by the ATC and TEHCC. I was involved here with a medical evacuation of a young boy in the summer of 2012. He was hiking with his mother and brother to Laurel Fork Falls when he slipped and fell off the narrow Koonford Bridge. This was a terribly disturbing event. A small group of day hikers, of which I was a participant, assisted paramedics by carrying the boy to a Wings Air Rescue Helicopter on Dennis Cove Road. The Rescue Helicopter took off and the group banded together to pray for the young lad. Fortunately, I ran into a pair of the day hikers, Ian and Deanndre, that had been with us that day a few weeks later and they informed me the boy had made a complete recovery. There are some narrow bridges and pathways along the fork in this vicinity, use caution in this area. Once across Koonford you will immediately ascend a series of rock steps before slipping out onto an old railroad grade where the going, once again, will get easy. The trail passes through an ominous rock cut and the sounds of the Laurel Fork River will begin to rumble through the gorge as you hike this portion of trail. There is a high water blue blazed bypass trail on the ridgeline after the rock cut, at this junction the A.T. descends very steeply on an impressive and lengthy rock staircase.

This stonemason marvel is the largest of its kind on the AT Hike 200. It is about a five-hundred-foot descent to the Laurel Fork Falls below. The falls are approximately 60 feet high and 40 feet across and during periods of ample rainfall the cascade is the most impressive in East Tennessee. There are plenty of large tabletop rocks near the falls to take a break or enjoy lunch. If you carry a hammock this is an ideal place for a summer afternoon siesta. During the winter months the descent and subsequent rock ledges past the falls will be icy and treacherous you should avoid this by using the aforementioned blue blaze trail. There are narrow ledges leading away from the falls on the edge of Laurel Fork for a reasonable distance before a footbridge directs your steps back into the laurels of the Pond Mountain Wilderness. Once over the crest of Pond Mountain, with some great campsites on the summit, you begin a descent to Watauga Lake. Watauga is one of the TVA managed lakes of the Tennessee Valley and because it lies within the Cherokee National Forest very little development has occurred here. In my opinion, Watauga is the most picturesque of all the Tennessee Valley Authority lakes. The trail navigates around the shores of the lake after you cross US Highway 321 near Hampton, Tennessee with ample places for camping. There is a small shelter, Watauga Lake Shelter, about two miles from the crossing at US 321 NOBO trailside left. After the shelter you will cross Watauga Dam, an earth and rock dam with an asphalt roadbed on its crest, built by TVA in the 1940’s. The trail ascends after the dam on the roadway for about a half-a-mile before veering back into the woods as you begin the traverse of Iron Mountain from Watauga Dam Road. There is only one other reasonable destination for supplies on or off the trail after this point in the journey, US 421 at Low Gap leading into Shady Valley, Tennessee. It would be a short hitch for food and supplies at the “US 421 Country Store” from either trail crossing at Cross Mountain TN 91 or Low Gap US 421. An alternative you might want to consider is re-supplying from Kincora Hostel. Bob Peoples back at Kincora, in the previous section, runs a shuttle to Brown’s Hardware and Grocery in Hampton, Tennessee; so plan accordingly, you will need roughly four days worth of food from Kincora to finish the AT Hike 200 in Damascus.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 4 Dennis Cove to Watauga Dam Road

Laurel Fork near Koonford Bridge. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/8, ISO-100.

Stone cut on the old railroad grade. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/125, ISO-900.

Autumn foliage and Laurel Fork Falls. Nikon D3100, F25, 1/8, ISO-220.

Laurel Fork Falls. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/15, ISO-100.

Winter Solitude at Laurel Fork Falls.

God illuminates a Christmas Tree on Pond Mountain. Nikon D3100, F6.3, 1/40, ISO-100.

Autumn beauty on Pond Mountain. Nikon D3100, F4.8, 1/30, ISO-2200.

The A.T. on the south side of Pond Mountain. Nikon D3100, F4.5, 1/40, ISO-100.

Sunlight through the canopy on the descent to US 321. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/160, ISO-1600.

Watauga Lake. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-140.

View from Watauga Dam. Nikon D3100, F10, 1/250, ISO-100.

Hikers on Watauga Dam. Nikon D3100, F13, 1/125, ISO-100.

Watauga Dam Road. Nikon D3100, F5.3, 1/200, ISO-200.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 3 Watauga Dam Road to Cross Mountain Road 15.8 Miles You are now thirty-seven relatively easy miles from the end of the AT Hike 200. Settle in now to Section 3 the longest wilderness stretch of trail since the beginning of your adventure. Section 3 is the most remote of all the sections of trail of the AT Hike 200. This section is inaccessible by road or, to my knowledge, public access trail. This section traverses the crest of Iron Mountain in Northeast Tennessee between Holston Lake and Watauga Lake. As of this writing, I have hiked all the miles of the Appalachian Trail from Mt. Cammerer in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park to the New River Bridge in Pearisburg, Virginia, some 390 miles. Tennessee - North Carolina Section 3 is the only section where dayhike looping is all but impossible, due to its length and inaccessibility; it must be completed as a one-way section. It is a wonderful retreat into wilderness. There is a reasonable amount of climbing in the southern part of this section heading NOBO. The trail climbs the rocky slopes out of the Big Laurel Branch Wilderness toward Vandeventer Shelter. Vandeventer is positioned on an open crest of Iron Mountain with wonderful views of Watauga Lake and the surrounding countryside. The highlight of this section is the Grindstaff Monument. This monument marks the final resting place of Uncle Nick Grindstaff. Grindstaff, a hermit, lived with his dog in this area. Legend has it, when he passed away, the dog guarded his body until family came and removed the body for burial. The dog supposedly ran away and still haunts the Iron Mountain crest. The monument is a large stone chimney-like structure with the following inscription: Uncle Nick Grindstaff, “Lived Alone, Suffered Alone, Died Alone”. There is a small meadow, abundant with wildflowers in the summer, adjacent to the monument with a fire ring and good tent sites, it is easy to see why Uncle Nick liked it so much here. From the monument you are about three miles from Cross Mountain Road. You will hike through laurel and over bog bridges to the end of this section. Water from the streams is very plentiful and reliable here producing some interesting late season mushroom and plant growth. There is a large parking area off TN 91 at Cross Mountain Road and it is safe to park a vehicle here overnight.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 3 Watauga Dam Road to Cross Mountain Road

Iron Mountain Range from US Highway 321

Trail view on the way to Vandeventer Shelter. Nikon D3100, F4.2, 1/50, ISO-100.

Nice views of Watauga and surrounding area from the crest of Iron Mountain.

The view from Vandeventer Shelter.

Grindstaff Monument, Lived Alone, Suffered Alone, and Died Alone.

Beautiful opening in the canopy north of Grindstaff Monument.

Unusual mushroom growth in the bogs near Cross Mountain. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-200

Trail view in the bogs. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-2000.

Bog bridges define the northbound path to TN 91 Cross Mountain Road.

“I know that voice”

A couple of years ago, I went on an overnight hike with my friend Jon from Cross Mountain TN 91 to Watauga Dam Road. When we arrived at the Cross Mountain trailhead we had plans to head south back to Watauga where we had left one of our vehicles. As we changed shoes and made last minute checks of our packs an odd middle-aged fellow approached us wearing a Native American Breastplate.

He had long stringy hair and wore oversized aviator wire-framed glasses that further magnified his naturally large uneasy eyes. You meet all kinds of people on the Appalachian Trail and the vast majority of hikers are well intentioned and affable in disposition. Something didn’t feel right about this encounter, nevertheless, we struck up a conversation with our new Chieftain friend. To be honest, I can’t recall much of anything he said; his discourse laced more with vulgarity than repeatable words or phrases.

George Carlin would’ve been proud. Admittedly, there was a quick visual scan for an indication of weapons on his person. After a few uncomfortable moments we inquired as to his direction of choice, allowing him to make his declaration before we opted to head the other way. It may not have been a question of personal safety; however, peace of mind had entered into the decision making process regardless of the location of our vehicles. Fortunately Chief headed north away from our original chosen path; proving yet again, there is power in prayer.

So, off we went towards Iron Mountain Shelter for the night followed by an eleven mile Saturday morning hike out to Watauga Dam Road. Several thru hikers were at the shelter that night our conversations cut short by the threatening weather. Jon and I had each pitched a tent on the south side of the shelter in a clearing. The visible trees as the light faded were bending and twisting in the high winds.

Jon told me, “not to look up”, he was right it only served to fuel my concern. A tree fell during the night somewhere near the creek maybe a few hundred yards from our tents; its thunderous final crash echoing in my head. After that, I don’t know, I was simply too tired to continue waiting to be crushed. Sleep finally claimed victory. The next morning we headed south greeted by a cold rain and hefty winds.

Thankfully, Iron Mountain is a true ridge run; this is the day I talked about at the beginning of the book in the gear section regarding improper shoes. Ah yes, forty pounds overweight for the support of the shoe, icy cold rain, and wind; give me more of that. However, two miles from the end of the hike the wind died down and the sun even came out, not a bad day after all. I was thrilled. We pass the Big Laurel Branch Wilderness sign and stroll out onto Watauga Dam Road, packs off, start the truck, we are alive and well: neither wind, nor rain, nor an angry Chieftain could keep us from our appointed rounds. As I recall it was Jon’s daughter’s birthday, so the appointed rounds were rather important on that day. Only one problem: the storms from the night before had blown over an enormous tree across the full breath of Watauga Dam Road rendering the road impassable. We were stuck, thoroughly and completely. Fortunately, with cell phone coverage we contacted TVA and they dispatched a maintenance crew to clear the road. A little patience and we’d be on our way in no time. As we waited, a guy walks up to us on the other side of the tree. I truly can’t remember if he was just walking or had driven up to us, be that as it may, I do recall he had a fishing pole in tow and seemed ready to seize the day. Spring in the southern Appalachians really can bring a myriad of weather, seemingly moment by moment, so seizing an opportunity to enjoy an early spring day is important when the weather cooperates. The exchange between us was pleasant and comical. As you may have guessed a few cliché statements were made as we exchanged bits and barbs about our current entrapment. I don’t know what clicked, but, I said to the angler, “Hey don’t I recognize your voice from WETS-FM”? He said yes, “I’m Jim and I work at the station”. WETS-FM is the public radio station in our area broadcasting most of the programming associated with National Public Radio. He proceeded to tell us of the plans to create three digital stations on the campus of East Tennessee

State University and the programming associated with each stream. Anyway, it was interesting stuff given my own personal interest in broadcasting. He wished us well and off he went to hook some dinner.

It wasn’t very long after his departure that the TVA crew approached with chain saws and a front-end loader to move the fallen timber. All in all a very good day with the perfect ending and Dad made it home in time for his daughter’s party: cake, candles, and a sweet chorus of “Happy Birthday”.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 2 Cross Mountain Road to Low Gap US 421 6.5 Miles The grade through this section of trail is moderate meandering mostly through the forest with one shelter, Double Springs Shelter located at about the halfway point of the section. The southern most part of this section traverses one of my favorite places of all the points I have walked thus far on the Appalachian Trail: the panorama of Shady Valley. Hiking across TN 91 at Cross Mountain you will pass through a gated split rail fence onto the Osborne Farm owned by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and Forest Service. Grazing cattle abound in this area. Approximately one-mile from Cross Mountain Road is a wonderful vantage point of stunning Shady Valley, a giant bowl between the Iron Mountain ridge to your right and Holston Mountain crest to your left. On a clear autumn day this vista is a rich tapestry of color and texture. Vast and open, it appears the blue sky reaches to infinity here. The contours of the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area and Jefferson National Forest surrounding your final destination Damascus, Virginia are visible here. There is a bench located at this point, a great place to relax and reflect on all that you have overcome and experienced on your journey. An easy climb of around five hundred feet will guide you to the crest of Holston Mountain passing Double Springs Shelter along the way. At the shelter is a beautiful open area with plenty of room for camping. At the northern end of this section you will cross US 421 where there is a boxed spring. The sight line is short here and it is a busy highway, especially popular with motorcyclists. If you require supplies the community of Shady Valley is 3 miles to the east on US 421, there is a general store and post office (Zip Code 37688) at the intersection of TN 91 and US 421.

Panorama from Shady Valley, Tennessee near Cross Mountain.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 2 Cross Mountain Road to Low Gap US 421

Hiking on a perfect Autumn day. Nikon D3100, F8, 1/80, ISO-100.

White blaze in Shady Valley. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/200, ISO-100.

Shady Valley, Tennessee with the ranges of Mount Rogers in the distance.

Tennessee – North Carolina Section 1 Low Gap US 421 to Damascus, Virginia 14.8 Miles

The last section of the AT Hike 200 is an easy grade with relatively little climbing throughout.

Maybe that is a little unfortunate for this journey: usually journeys end with some sort of culminating experience, not so here. This last section is just miles. However, these miles are still Appalachian Trail miles making them glorious in my book. The trail winds through dense canopy and the footing is soft and easy on some of the widest, well-kept twists and turns on your entire journey. Damascus, in and of itself, is a great destination on the Appalachian Trail, host to “Trail Days”. Thousands of hikers descend on Damascus each May, there are equipment vendors, food, live music, a parade, and numerous other activities to enjoy during the weekend event. You may want to plan your trip to coincide with the Trail Days celebration. The highlight of section 1 is the Abingdon Gap Shelter and crossing the Virginia state line on foot. The shelter is one of my favorite overnight spots on the trail: great campsites in a tranquil setting. Perhaps, this shelter is the perfect place to spend your last night on the Appalachian Trail as part of the AT Hike 200. Out of the shelter the next morning, you will ridge run for about four miles with some easy up and downs; then begin a slow two-thousand foot descent in five miles passed the Tennessee – Virginia state line into the town of Damascus. There is also a great campsite 2.3 miles from Damascus, your last place to stop and camp before entering the town. Damascus, a town of about 1,000, has hostels, bed-and-breakfasts, shops and places to eat. Damascus is also the halfway point of the Virginia Creeper Trail, the popular cycling trail, running along the old Clinchfield railroad bed from White Top Mountain to Abingdon, Virginia. Mount Rogers Outfitters located on West Laurel Avenue is an outstanding shop catering to hikers year round. They offer shuttle services and long-term parking. Damascus is also home to some of the best fly-fishing in the southern Appalachians among the waters of Whitetop Laurel Creek.

I know, it is pretty difficult to stop now; the trails in the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area are fantastic. The Appalachian Trail follows the Creeper Trail northbound out of Damascus and it is terribly tempting to keep moving. That is the beauty of hiking; there is always another summit to climb and always-another beautiful thing in God’s creation to photograph. Happy trails and God bless.

Enjoy the journey.

My Toyota on McQueen Gap Road. “Official Truck of the AT Hike 200”.

Photographs from Tennessee – North Carolina Section 1 Low Gap US 421 to Damascus, Virginia

Emergency Shelter near McQueen Gap dubbed the “Holiday Inn”

Trail view. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-180.

Hiker taking a siesta in the Abingdon Gap Shelter.

Perfect slope near McQueen Gap. Nikon D3100, F11, 1/30, ISO-500.

First Hint of Autumn from a trail view. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-160.

Trail view near Abingdon Gap. Nikon D3100, F5.6, 1/30, ISO-400.

Great campsites abound near Abingdon Gap Shelter.

David, Spencer, Joe, and Jon crossing the Virginia State line into Mount Rogers.

Congratulations. 208.8 Miles and the end of the AT Hike 200.

Trail Maintenance: “No Sniveling“

One of my greatest joys associated with the trail has come in the form of participating with my local trail maintenance club. By the summer of 2012, I had walked my way north to Pearisburg, Virginia about 170 miles, give or take, into Southwest Virginia. My last evening of that trip was spent with Bucket List, Fozzie and others in the fantastic Woods Hole Hostel, operated by Neville and Michael, near Angels Rest and Pearisburg. I called Don Raines, the shuttle driver, the morning of my departure to arrange a reasonable meeting place to be transported back to the Burkes Garden area. It was a nice day for a tenmile morning hike to complete the Southwest Virginia ATC Guide Book. As luck would have it, when Don and I arrived at my vehicle some trail maintainers were working near Burkes on Virginia Highway 623 at Garden Mountain where I had left my pickup truck four days prior. We started chatting about maintenance challenges and I thanked them for their service to hikers, when the oldest of the group asked me where I was from. I told him I had grown up in Greeneville, Tennessee and currently lived in Jonesborough, Tennessee. He said, “great: the trail maintainers down there really could use some help”.

He didn’t mean in a malicious way, as I understand it now, it was directed more in the following manner: If you use this trail and it has left an endearing mark on your life, join your local maintainers club and give something back to this trail that has given so much to you. That charge couldn’t have come at a better time. Logging unique miles had become more difficult; I had walked north and south enough that it was now more than a three-hour drive to any new trailhead from my home, so hiking new miles on a whim was no longer logistically possible. So, why not, join the local trail club? The A.T. had certainly given me more than I could ever repay. It was definitely time for me to give me something back.

If you were ever involved in the digging of a single mile of relocation, my goodness, how you would view the trail from a different perspective. Trail maintenance is measured and reported in feet not in miles. Building this trail is backbreaking work and among some of the most rewarding I have ever undertaken. The A.T. is a living and ever evolving piece of real estate. Nature unleashes its fury on the trail; rain and snow creates erosion issues. Trees fall in periods of high winds and, they fall, after large volumes of rain or snow. Steeper sections of trail tend to suffer the greatest damage from the elements and need the greatest amount of attention. Steep sections are prime candidates for relocation efforts and that is the primary focus of the regular Tuesday TEHCC maintenance crew: relocations and rehabilitations. Picks, Mattocks, Pulaskis, and Rock Bars are used by trail maintenance volunteers as they physically dig and remove duff, rocks and soil. Our group uses rocks and logs to create stairs and steps, all this effort to minimize future major damage from the elements. It is individuals that comprise this group that make it such a joy to be involved with the TEHCC. Their rich stories of trail experience and trail life as a part of the Appalachian Trail community. The local trail club works in concert with the United States Forest Service and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and it takes years of planning and effort to relocate even the smallest piece of the A.T. It takes vision and a commitment to mission to modify and create the trail you hike. The average timeline to relocate a section of trail is two to three years according to Ed Oliver ATC Relocation Coordinator and TEHCC member. We have the great pleasure to have Bob Peoples as part of our team. Bob owns and operates the Kincora Hiker Hostel near Dennis Cove, Tennessee; if there is a nicer man and a better storyteller on the Appalachian Trail, I haven’t met him. I haven’t known him very long; however, as he said, “people on the trail are like family and that’s really, really nice”. The thing is he means it, they are family, they love him and he loves them. And he loves the trail. Bob, Ed and Carl Fritz have every inch of trail committed to memory; all the Forest Service Access Roads to the A.T. spinning like a giant Rolodex in each of their minds, it is really unbelievable the wealth of knowledge that exists between these men. Perhaps, this journey will lead me to a new book after years of observation. In the mean time, I count myself fortunate and blest to be

around these volunteers all banding together to create a lasting and better trail experience. I encourage you to get involved with a local trail club or contact the Appalachian Trail Conservancy in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia to find a club or maintenance opportunity where you can participate. We frequently encounter hikers as we do maintenance and they thank us for our efforts, Bob and Carl Fritz, the volunteer TEHCC coordinator, are never shy to say: “come back and volunteer”. This is the pathway that challenges and revitalizes; it belongs to all of us and we owe it to each other to care for and protect this wonderful trail. Bob’s hard-hat has a sticker affixed to its shiny burnt orange surface that simply states the following: “No Sniveling”. No whining, no complaining, and no excuses: we all love and use this trail.

Accept our invitation to volunteer as an Appalachian Trail maintainer, your service is needed and, in return, your service will give you a deeper appreciation for the magnificence of this footpath. B.L.T. reporting in feet not miles and, now, after years of walking, I finally understand the depth and breath of each step of this trail. Amen and Amen.

Creating my first set of Appalachian Trail steps with Carl Fritz, Volunteer Coordinator of the Tennessee Eastman Hiking and Canoeing Club.

About the Author Joe Morris has a Bachelor of Arts in Economics from the University of Tennessee, Knoxville and a Master of Business Administration from East Tennessee State University. He has one daughter, Ashley, and currently resides in Jonesborough, Tennessee. Requests for reprints or permission to use the photographs contained herein may be sent to the following: jcmorris18@gmail.com or Joe Morris, P.O. Box 1384, Greeneville, TN 37744.

Joe’s Gear List The following is a portion of my current gear list that varies based on seasonality: MSR Hubba Single Person Tent Six Moon Designs Lunar Solo Marmot Arete 40-Degree Sleeping Bag Marmot Helium 15-Degree Sleeping Bag Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sleeping Pad Therm-a-Rest Trail Pro in combination with Z Lite in cold weather Granite Gear Blaze AC 60 Backpack Sea to Summit 35 Liter Lightweight Dry Sack to line the backpack interior Integral Designs eVent Rain Jacket Montbell Trekker Rain Pant Mountain Hardwear Down Jacket Montbell U.L. Down Pant Feathered Friends Down Booties Ice Breaker 150 Short Sleeve Micro Tee Ice Breaker 150 Underwear Ice Breaker 150 Long Underwear Pant Ice Breaker 260 Long Underwear Pant Patagonia 3 Merino Wool Zip Shirt MSR Pocket Rocket Stove MSR 4 ounce IsoPro Fuel Trangia Spirit Alcohol Stove with Homemade Chimney Housing for cold weather Denatured Alcohol Snowpeak Solo Titanium Cookwear Set

MSR Litelifter Pot Lifter MSR Spoon or Spork Aqua Mira Purification Water Tablets 1 Liter Nalgene Water bottles Oboz Sawtooth Trail Runner Vasque Velocity GTX Gore-Tex Trail Runner Black Diamond Ergo Trekking Poles Black Diamond B-Dry Gore-Tex Gloves Mountain Hardwear Outdry Gloves Mountain Hardwear Butter Liner Outdoor Research Verglas Gaiters Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain Low Gaiters Patagonia Houdini Wind Shirt Petzl Tikka XP Headlamp Sea to Summit Cordura Ultra Sil Medium Stuff Sack for food Vermont Darn Tough Merino Cushion Micro Crew Socks or Quarter Merino Cushion Smartwool PhD Outdoor Light Mini Sock Buff Tubular Headwear in microfiber polyester and merino wool

Jon’s Gear List The following is a portion of Jon’s current gear list that varies based on seasonality: Mountain Laurel Designs Duo Mid Pyramid Shelter Big Agnes Seedhouse SL3 Western Mountaineering Caribou MF Sleeping Bag Go Lite Adrenaline 20 Sleeping Bag Equinox Ultra-light Bivy Sack Therm-a-Rest Neo Air Therm-a-Rest Z Lite Sleeping Pad Granite Gear Vapor Trail Backpack RAB Drillium eVent Rain Jacket Go Lite Reed Rain Pant Montbell Down Inner Pants Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket Montbell Thermawrap Parka Feathered Friends Down Booties REI Sahara Base Layer Pant Outdoor Research Novo Watch Cap Icebreaker Super Fine Boxer Brief Smartwool Lightweight Zip T Icebreaker Tech T Light Patagonia Micro Puff Pullover MSR Wind Pro MSR 8-Ounce IsoPro Snow Peak Giga Power

Snow Peak Mini Solo Cookset Nalgene Cantene Platypus Hoser 3-Liter Reservoir Platypus 1-Liter Water Bottle Montrail Hardrock Trail Runner Montrail Java Gore-Tex Trail Runner Black Diamond Ascent Trekking Poles Outdoor Research PL 400 Mitts Outdoor Research Convertible 300 Fleece Mitts Mountain Hardwear Powerstretch Liner Gloves Mountain Laurel Designs eVent Rain Mitts Outdoor Research Rocky Mountain High Gore-Tex Gaiters Integral Designs eVent Shortie Gaiters Patagonia Houdini Wind Shirt Princeton Tec EOS Headlamp Vermont Darn Tough Merino Full Cushion Boot Socks