Issue Ten
2019
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RANGE ISSUE WINTER
P U B LI S H E R
10
RANGE
2019
THISISRANGE.COM E D I TO R I A L D I R E CTO R
@THISISRANGE #RANGEMAG
Jeanine Pesce jeanine@thisisrange.com
A R T D I R E CTO R / D E S I G N E R
Jonathan Cammisa jon@thisisrange.com
M A N AG I N G E D I TO R
Emily Hopcian submissions@thisisrange.com
E D I TO R S
Nina Stotler + Alex Gomes nina@thisisrange.com / alex@thisisrange.com
ON THE COVER:
D I G I TA L + S O C I A L M E D I A E D I T O R S
AFTER THE PASS, BEFORE THE LAKE
Lisa Dougherty + Johnie Gall
MADDY MINNIS
lisa@thisisrange.com / johnie@thisisrange.com
@MONGOBBQ
C O N T R I B U TO R S
P H O T O G R A P H E R S / I L L U S T R AT O R S / A R T I S T S
Sarah Attar, Colin Beresford,
Tommy Corey, Blake Gillies,
Whitney Connolly, Rob Darmour,
José G. González, Brandon Herrell,
Lisa Dougherty, Sophie Goodman,
Logan Kruse, Laura Lawson Visconti,
Emily Hopcian, Ashlee Langholz,
Maddy Minnis, Matthew Pastick,
Brian Linton, Hatie Parmeter,
Noelle Phares, Ben Joel Pingilley,
Sonya Pevzner, Rian Rhoe,
Beth Price, Rob Schanz,
Jill Sanford, Amanda Leigh Smith,
Brandon Soder, Mel Suchowolec,
Nina Stotler, Jeff Thrope,
Thomas Van Veen/Documentary Associates,
Rocío Villalobos, Halcy Webster,
Justine Yueng
Sydney Williams, Erica Zazo
PR I NTE D I N CANADA O n 1 0 0 % po s t - con s u m er
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rec y c l ed paper
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I MAG E BY SARAH AT TAR / "1 0" BY RANG E
Foreword Our Winter 2019 issue is dedicated to progression.
As we put the finishing touches on Issue 10 of RANGE Magazine, we're compelled to consider the definition of progress. Depending on who you ask, this subjective word can yield a wide range of very personal interpretations. Progress means moving forward toward a destination, or charting a course and making headway. But how can we be sure we're making the right kind of progress, and whose standards define "right"? In Issue 10, we've tapped into our network of established and emerging voices to get to the root of these universal questions. When we talk about progress in relation to product or materials, we're traditionally referring to innovation and performance. Is it lighter, faster or stronger? Is it solving a problem? Is it made well and crafted with intention? But in 2019, we're wondering if progress would be better defined as facing fears and breaking down barriers. And if so, who is responsible for making this type of progress, and how can we empower them to charge harder to push back against the status quo? In numerology, the number 10 represents independence and unlimited potential. For the whole team at RANGE, our 10th issue is a testament to both via our community of self-determined, creative contributors driven by the urge to explore their place in the world. Ultimately, the universe rewards those courageous enough to be vulnerable and open to different points of view. We're engaged in daily global and national debates about what it means to be progressive. Regardless if you lean to the left or the right during those conversations, questioning the very definition of progress forces us to dig a little deeper and examine our own personal positions. Issue 10 is about building bridges between the past and the present. It's about recognizing the spirit of those scrappy rebels who paved a path for us to become the global, progressive force we are today. Every one of us is a work in progress, whether you're just joining the conversation, developing the next must-have technology, building a brand or influencing a new generation of outdoor enthusiasts. You're moving the needle and inspiring others to follow in your footsteps. Issue 10 gives us the opportunity to openly share stories about our struggles, our successes, our failures and our challenges because they bring us one step closer to our collective goals. To making progress. -Jeanine Pesce, Editorial Director
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NATURE FOR H E A L T H Digging Deeper Into Our Need To Be
OUTSIDE Words + Image by Ashlee Langholz
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J
oshua Lawler rides his bike to school. A profes-
that getting outside is critical to our mental and physical
sor at the University of Washington’s College of
well-being,” says REI CEO Jerry Stritzke. “It’s time to re-
the Environment, Lawler shares an office with a
think time outdoors as a must-have, not a nice-to-have.”
dozen plants, years of neatly-organized ecology
journals and a painted self-portrait from a friend he says
Nature for Health researchers and professionals can
probably scares his students. Lawler has hot water, tea
scientifically prove there’s a strong correlation between
and a selection of mugs at arm’s reach, seemingly al-
human health—everything from cardiovascular health, to
ways ready to steep into conversations.
stress and anxiety relief, to decreased depression and improved eyesight—and time spent in nature. Still, Lawler
Meetings in Lawler’s office have historically focused on
says there’s plenty more to understand.
the impact of people on plants and animals. In recent years, conversations have evolved to also include the
“This donation from REI has been critical,” he says.
impact of nature on people, as Lawler is the director of
“There are some important questions we don’t know the
the university’s newly-formed Nature for Health program.
answers to. What actually happens in our bodies and minds? How much time do you have to spend in nature
Composed of multi-disciplinary researchers and com-
to get the benefits? What kind of exposure to nature do
munity members, the program aims to accelerate our
you need?”
understanding of the health benefits of nature and then apply that understanding to develop better programs
Soon, Nature for Health will kickstart new pilot projects
and policies to improve human health.
to dig deeper. The goal? Gather data to tackle bigger questions that will lead to designing better schoolyards,
It may seem at odds that those concerned with conserv-
buildings and programs.
ing the natural world are encouraging more people to explore and use it.
“For REI, the ultimate goal of supporting this research and similar studies is to have the country’s policymak-
“A lot of environmental and conservation messages have
ers, decision-makers and local and regional leaders
been focused on biodiversity and endangered species,”
appreciate that time outdoors is not just part of the
Lawler says. “Those are important to some people, but if
American experience but part of the quality of life and
we look at what else nature provides, we can find things
well-being everyone should have access to," says Marc
everyone finds important—clean water, clean air, energy
Berejka, director of government and community affairs
and health benefits.”
at REI.
If demonstrating the health benefits leads more people
From informal meetings over dinner, beer or even a sim-
to spend time outside, that’s perfectly okay. Lawler
ple cup of tea in Lawler’s office, Lawler and his Nature
believes the more people spend time outside the more
for Health colleagues have learned a lot about the pow-
they’ll value it and have an interest in conserving it.
er of bringing people together. And they don’t plan on stopping anytime soon.
“If we need more parks, that will be a good problem to have,” he says.
Lawler says, “As we realize how beneficial nature is for our health, we’ll realize how important the natural world
In Autumn 2018, REI pledged $1 million to Nature for
is and how much we need to keep it around in a way we
Health. “The best researchers in the world are proving
haven’t before.”
“If we need more parks, that will be a good problem to have.”
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D I R T IS THE NEW
BLACK Words + Images by Tommy Corey
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O
n April 22, 2017, I started what would become a failed thru-hike of the Pacific Crest Trail. On April 15, 2018, I returned to re-hike the trail from start to finish. It took me six months to hike 2,650 miles from the United States-Mexico border to the United States-Canada
border. Along the way, I created an editorial-style photography project dubbed “Hiker Trash Vogue.” The series features intimate-yet-somewhat-comical portraits of long-distance hikers posing like high-fashion models. The irony? The Pacific Crest Trail is perhaps as far from high-fashion as you can get. Everyone photographed had gone at least a week without showering, was covered in dirt and smelled less than fresh.
While the project started as a joke, it means more to me now than I could’ve ever anticipated. As I worked on the collection, hikers would tell me how beautiful and confident I made them feel during a shoot. Looking at the images as a whole makes me see this project was, and is, a creative way to challenge the commercial standards of beauty. The people photographed have not been through hours of hair and makeup; they’re not airbrushed or photoshopped. They are sweaty and tired, raw and real and perhaps, at times, a little bloody. At the end of six months, I realized I’d created something really special. From the dry, otherworldly Southern Californian desert, to the snowy passes of the Sierra Nevada, to the unbearable heat of Northern California, to the rolling hills of Oregon and the steep, jagged peaks of Washington, I survived the rain, the snow, the river crossings, the wasp stings, the ass chafe and the days and nights where I felt genuinely alone. Through it all, while I was just trying to survive, I made art to thrive.
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ShRedding
Water in wintEr
by Erica Zazo
I MAG E BY MAT TH EW PASTICK
C
ome winter, Mother Nature makes
“I wouldn’t describe Great Lakes surfing con-
“They’re covered in ice, and you’re slipping down
her presence known across the
ditions as harsh, purely because I live for this,”
the face of a cliff to drop into the lineup. It’s ex-
Great Lakes. Water temperatures
says Ella Skrocki, a surfer and environmental
citing for a surfer who’s been at it for a minute.”
drop to around 30 degrees Fahren-
activist from Empire, Michigan. “Surfing in
heit. The air sometimes freezes waves in their
the wintertime is really gnarly, but as long as
Skrocki grew up surfing the Great Lakes thanks,
tracks. Blizzards drown Michigan’s two peninsu-
you know what you’re doing, it can be a really
in part, to her parents’ love of the water. At 9 years
las in a thick, white blanket—dumping 250 inch-
magical experience.”
old, she caught her first wave in Lake Michigan
es of snow in some places. Rapidly-changing
on an old, beat-up windsurfing board that had its
weather patterns pummel wave after wave at the
Skrocki knows the Great Lakes well. She says
sail removed. Today, she’s one of a few female
shoreline, stirring up rip currents, piercing wind
massive, rocky, coastal cliffs and unpredictable
surfers who live for shredding—water, that is—in
and razor-sharp ice chunks.
changes in weather make Lake Superior, the
the winter season.
northernmost and largest lake, a beast in and Such harsh winters drive most of us indoors for
of itself.
“I know probably 10 female surfers who are tried
warmth. For a dedicated and passionate group of
and true, dedicated year-round to the sport,”
female surfers, these cold-weather storms are a
“In most of the spots I’d surf around Marquette
Skrocki says. “There were always a couple other
call to run, surfboards in hand, to the Great Lakes.
[in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula], you’d have to
women who were mysterious and inspiring that I
climb over rocks to get into the water,” she says.
knew of online, but it was mainly just me out in the water as a female.”
Harsh winters drive most of us indoors for warmth. For a dedicated and passionate group of female surfers, these cold-weather storms are a call to run, surfboards in hand, to the Great Lakes. 12
Great Lakes for the Love of the I MAG E BY B ETH P R ICE
“There are times I’ve been sitting on my board in a state of near-hypothermia, but then I’ll catch another wave. I don’t know if it’s the adrenaline that warms me up, but I always decide to go back out to catch another one.” One of those women, Jaime LeDuc, surfs in Lake
The Great Lakes usually churn the best waves
“Every single session I have in the Great Lakes is
Superior along Minnesota’s “North Shore” near
in autumn, winter and spring. To stay warm in
even better than the last—because it keeps hap-
Duluth. When a storm is brewing, LeDuc grabs
freezing temperatures, Skrocki typically does a
pening,” Skrocki says.
her gear and dog and embarks on a “surf safari”
few exercises in her living room before wrestling
to find Lake Superior’s best waves. She argues
on her 5mm neoprene wetsuit and 7mm booties.
Nearly every Great Lakes surfer is willing to stand
there are few surfers more passionate and com-
At the beach, she applies Vaseline to her face,
up for local environmental issues. From fisheries,
mitted than those who surf the Great Lakes.
slips on her 7mm neoprene mittens, dumps a
to fracking, to shoreline water-bottling facilities,
Nalgene bottle full of hot water into her wetsuit
to oil pipelines running through the heart of the
“Everyone pushes the limits,” LeDuc says.
and runs into the freezing-cold water. When
Great Lakes, a number of environmental issues
“There are times I’ve been sitting on my board
she stands up to catch a wave, the water on
pose a threat to the largest group of freshwater
in a state of near-hypothermia, but then I’ll catch
her wetsuit, the brim of her hood and even her
lakes, by total area, on Earth. The region’s surfers
another wave. I don’t know if it’s the adrenaline
eyelashes will turn to ice.
are banding together and supporting groups like Surfrider Foundation, Surfers for the Great Lakes
that warms me up, but I always decide to go back out to catch another one. My face has also
Despite the chilling temperatures and dangerous
(Skrocki’s organization) and FLOW (For Love of
gotten so numb that I’ve been hit with a piece of
waters, Skrocki, LeDuc and others find peace,
Water) to stand up for the water that makes their
ice, started bleeding and not noticed until I saw
serenity and fullness in the Great Lakes.
community what it is.
blood in the water.”
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Without Limits
I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF W H E E L TH E WOR LD
Explore
Making Outdoor Adventure Accessible to People with Physical Disabilities by Emily Hopcian
A
t 16 years old, Alvaro Silberstein traveled from his home in
Silberstein, who cannot move his legs or hands, didn't initially think he could
Santiago, Chile to Cusco, Peru. In the Sacred Valley, Silberstein
go hiking, bicycling or kayaking. But with the emergence of new products and
boarded a train from Cusco to Machu Picchu and encountered
adaptive equipment over the past 15 years, his perspective has changed, along
a long delay due to a protest. When Silberstein finally arrived,
with the possibilities for outdoor adventure for people with physical disabilities.
he was left with just 30 minutes to explore the famous ruins. In 2017, at the urging of a friend and with a 12-person team in place, Silberstein
“I always said, ‘I’ll definitely come again,’” Silberstein recalls.
planned a trip to Torres del Paine National Park in southern Chile to complete the W circuit using a special hiking and running wheelchair called the Joëlette.
Two years later, a car crash with a drunk driver left Silberstein paralyzed and in a wheelchair.
Following this successful trek, Silberstein says, “We started receiving a lot of requests from people wanting to repeat the trip. That’s when we realized
“When I had my accident, I said, ‘This [Machu Picchu] will not be a possibility
a need to start organizing the Torres del Paine trip for others and to replicate
anymore,’” he says.
what we’d done in other places, open new routes and allow people with physical disabilities to explore places that were previously inaccessible.”
Since his childhood at the foot of the Andes Mountains in Santiago, Silberstein, now 33, has been passionate about the outdoors. Following the
With this mission in mind, Silberstein and his friend Camilo Navarro founded
car accident, he craved nature but often found hiking trails and campsites
Wheel the World in September 2017 as a B Corporation tackling the chal-
inaccessible to people with physical disabilities.
lenge of accessible tourism by creating travel experiences for people with disabilities to explore with family, friends and others.
“There’s very limited access, especially in the places I’ve lived most of my life,” he says. “In Chile and South America in general, access is limited, and we
“We want to empower them to explore the world without limits,” Silberstein
have this mindset that if you have a physical disability it would be impossible
says. “Anywhere people dream of exploring, there’s a way of doing that for
for you to explore a national park or enjoy natural places.”
them like anyone else.”
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“That’s when we realized a need to start organizing the Torres del Paine trip for others and to replicate what we’d done in other places, open new routes and allow people with physical disabilities to explore places that were previously inaccessible.” Wheel the World is one of the first companies of its kind to operate globally and partners with, trains and certifies tour operators in Chile, Peru and Mexico. They’re also collaborating with PEAK DMC to expand their offerings to Australia and the U.S. Wheel the World knows adaptive equipment is not cheap and helps operators purchase equipment like the Joëlette. “That’s one reason why we believe our concept is powerful,” Silberstein says. “We’re allowing people to have access to this equipment in these places, rather than asking visitors to acquire it themselves.” With the support of family, friends, Wheel the World colleagues and volunteers, Silberstein and Isabel Aguirre trekked the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu using two Joëlettes in November 2018. According to PROMPERÚ, Peru’s travel and tourism authority, they were the first people in wheelchairs to do so. Seventeen years after his brief first visit to Machu Picchu and 15 years after the car accident, Silberstein recognized his dream of returning to the Sacred Valley and exploring the ruins once more. “It’s something very emotional to go somewhere you never thought you’d be able to go,” he says. “It’s a life-changing experience. I think everyone that’s part of this ends up feeling much more empowered in their lives. They have more confidence, an understanding that limits can be overcome.” If you have a physical disability, know someone who does or want to travel with Wheel the World and support someone with a physical disability on an outdoor adventure, visit gowheeltheworld.com.
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SILVER LINING The Space Blanket Meets Marathon Culture by Lisa Dougherty
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D
avid Deigan got into running the
If anyone knows a thing or two about keeping
same way a lot of us do—on a
people warm, it’s NASA. It’s cold in space!
whim and with very little training. In
So marathon organizers turned to Metallized
1959, Deigan was in high school.
Products, one of the first companies to imple-
While messing around with friends one day, he
ment NASA’s insulation technology into their
saw a crowd of people running by, joined them
own products, to create a blanket for mara-
and unintentionally completed his first mara-
thon runners.
thon. According to NASA, that same year, “the In 1976, the space blanket was incorporated
Russians were the first to successfully launch a probe to the far side of the moon—and return pictures—thus firing the starter pistol for the space race.” While the subjects
of
marathon
running and Space Age technology literally,
are,
quite
worlds
apart,
Deigan would dedicate a career to exploring the synchronicity
between
the two. NASA has long been credited for the innovative material used to insulate everything from
If anyone knows a thing or two about keeping people warm, it’s NASA. It’s cold in space! So marathon organizers turned to Metallized Products to create a blanket for marathon runners.
into
the
marathon,
serving as a medical accessory
to
keep
runners warm postrace. While a viable solution at the time, the
blankets
were
packaged individually and took too long to unwrap. Enter Deigan. Two years later, in 1978,
Deigan
ran
a 26.2-mile course through the five boroughs of New York City. On a path in Central Park, the fi-
the Apollo lunar landing vehicles, to survival
nal stretch of the New York City Marathon, it
equipment, to computers and even to Earth-
wasn’t the finish line that caught his eye; it was
bound adventure vehicles, such as the camp-
the runners wrapped in reflective blankets.
er. “It is one of the simplest yet most versatile spinoffs to come out of [NASA],” says NASA.
Deigan worked at a metalizing company that
So how did it become part of marathon cul-
manufactured products for aerospace insula-
ture?
tion. The reflective blankets Deigan saw adorning competitors was more than a memento of
In the early years of the New York City Marathon,
the marathon. For him, it was a merging of his
the threat of hypothermia among thousands of
career and hobby—and sparked curiosity.
racers was a serious concern. Upon crossing the finish line, it took competitors 20 minutes,
Soon thereafter, Deigan founded Heatsheets
on average, to get to their clothes and warm
and introduced designs to enhance NASA’s
up. Every year, marathon organizers watched
infrared-reflective technology and eliminate the
racers visit the medical tent rather than bask in
problematic packaging of the original space
the glory of finishing the race.
blanket. As fate would have it, the launch of
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I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF TH E N EW YOR K ROAD R U N N E R S
Heatsheets coincided with an unfolding discussion in the marathon running world around corporate sponsorship. When Fred Lebow, an eccentric first-generation Jewish immigrant from Transylvania with a passion for running who founded the New York City Marathon, heard about Heatsheets, he saw an opportunity to sell prime advertising space during the marathon. Lebow called Deigan and offered him corporate sponsorship of the marathon in exchange for a donation of finish line blankets. With only two minutes to make his case to the father of the New York City Marathon, Deigan presented a concept that would solidify Heatsheets’ place in marathon culture: why not sell advertising space on the blankets? Lebow bought it, and the rest, as they say, is history. In refining the metallic blanket throughout the past three decades, Deigan has contributed to the space blanket’s lasting legacy with running, as well as other sporting events. Adidas and United Airlines, among many others, have utilized Heatsheets as a major marketing avenue. In 2010, Heatsheets premiered an eco-friendly version of the material at Outdoor Retailer in Salt Lake City, Utah. Today’s Heatsheets are recyclable and made in the U.S. Deigan retired from the company in 2014. Heatsheets’ current owners are avid runners who are working hard to continue Deigan’s legacy in the endurance sports market. When it comes to the silver lining in marathon running,
With only two minutes to make his case to the father of the New York City Marathon, Deigan presented a concept that would solidify Heatsheets’ place in marathon culture: why not sell advertising space on the blankets?
the sky is clearly not the limit.
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I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF F RONTE E R
Always forward: fRONTEER's Jon Tang on inspira
tion + evolving a brand
by Rian Rhoe
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J
on Tang doesn’t know how to do things halfway. When the Los Angeles-based footwear designer and FRONTEER founder starts something,
he goes all in. He thinks like an architect, and his designs are inspired by his relationship to nature, the lineage of outdoor footwear and the landscapes on which his products will tread. Throughout Tang’s childhood in Houston, Texas, the term “outdoor” carried a simple meaning: going outside. He grew to appreciate nature through sports, scrambling, hiking and climbing. Tang’s outdoor adventures coexisted with a respect for Jordans, art and NASA. The inspiration for FRONTEER came when Tang was working as a footwear designer at Puma and then K-Swiss. The outdoor aspect of his life wasn’t represented in sneaker culture, and in the outdoor footwear space, he couldn’t find shoes that embraced the qualities he loved about sneakers: bright color, everyday wearability and metaphorical storytelling. Seeing a void in the footwear game, Tang sought to create something authentic to the outdoors, that
What was your introduction to hiking, climbing, camp-
embodied the simplicity of getting outside, still felt
ing and spending time in nature?
at home in an urban environment and looked good.
I grew up before the Internet, so it was natural to get
Eventually, collaborations with Manastash and Topo
out of the house and do something. Houston has good
Designs bloomed. Dover Street Market and Kith came
weather and a lot of land to explore. I also played a lot of
knocking, as did Backcountry.
soccer, and we often practiced and played games near a big forest and creek. I got acquainted with the seasons,
We spoke with Tang to find out what inspires him,
the smells and the transformation of nature throughout
what FRONTEER is debuting in Spring 2019 and
the year.
how he sees the future unfolding. What inspired FRONTEER’s Spring 2019 lineup? How does it build on previous seasons? Spring 2019 is inspired by the space race. 2019 marks the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. It was a time of the ultimate exploration. I'm from Houston and have always had an affinity for space and NASA. Now more than ever, we are looking to the stars and beyond for inspiration. This season evolves from previous seasons by bringing in a new version of the Super Gratton, FRONTEER's first style. It's a new and improved version, and I'm happy to debut it with a space-inspired story. As the founder of a relatively young brand, what does progress look like? It's not easy having your own brand, but it's also rewarding and motivating to see people enjoy what you’ve created. That's what keeps me going. The brand evolves every day. It has to. The market changes so fast now, so you have to learn to be flexible and mobile to evolve with it. You don't want to change too much, but you also need to be able to bring something new. The future isn't always a clear picture. It starts blurry. You do your best to guess what it might become and guide it. I just go with my gut feeling and never look back.
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C O R D N E W
W A V E
C
ORDURA® has been at the forefront of progress and innovation in the workwear category for nearly two decades. With a product line evolving to meet the ever-changing needs of their customers—from 4EVER™ Fleece to Combat Wool™, from performance
denim to stretch reinforcements—CORDURA® is the go-to ingredient for brands making long-lasting clothing for durable people. CORDURA® sees workwear as a functional tool. “With a strong legacy in reinforcement fabric technologies, we’ve rapidly expanded our portfolio to include new dimensions in durability plus innovations, including stretch and mobility, moisture management and soft-comfort aesthetics—a sign of evolution in the industry,” says Global CORDURA® brand Business Development Director Cindy McNaull. This growth is achieved in part through the CORDURA® brand’s legendary collaborative relationships. With partners like Carhartt®, they're able to bring inspired design solutions and material-driven, product-centric stories from the lab to life. “Our latest line of Full Swing® garments were built and inspired by years of jobsite visits and insights from our Carhartt Crew of carpenters, roofers, aircraft and diesel mechanics, landscapers and engineers,” says Anne I MAG E C OU RTE SY CAR HART T
Rourke, design manager for bottoms at Carhartt. “We worked with our insights team and even used crowdsourcing to help design and test products with the goal of creating the ideal pant solution. With the Crew’s invaluable feedback on optimal ergonomics and functionality, we developed products such as our Full Swing® Steel Multi-Pocket Pant not only with extra-rugged stretch CORDURA® NYCO fabric for mobile durability but also with additional CORDURA® fabric reinforcement in critical wear areas.” The crossover of workwear into the outdoor market has presented CORDURA® with a unique opportunity to blur the lines between work and play. The fast-
Dovetail Workwear, another one of the CORDURA® brand’s latest
paced lifestyles we're living today demand wearable pieces that deliver when
collaboration partners, has seen a ton of success in this niche overlap
it counts. While the performance aspects of outdoor apparel influence work-
as they have roots firmly planted in both worlds.
wear with added mobility and breathability, the tradition of built-to-last rugged durability of workwear is influencing the outdoor and active space at the same
They say women who wear Dovetail Workwear don’t wait around
time. In both segments, beyond just durability, we're seeing a next-generation
for anyone. They get on with the job. You can find them in all kinds
approach toward style, function and comfort.
of trades from welding to landscape design. Their newest pièce de
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D U R A
®
W O R K W E A R philosophy to design the ultimate union of technol-
solution called the Eli Chore Coat. Constructed
ogy and tailoring for women who work.”
from rugged stretch CORDURA® Naturalle™, it's waterproof, breathable and engineered with
Workwear and outdoor apparel are natural com-
high-tenacity nylon 6,6 for enhanced resistance
plements to one another. When it comes down to
to tearing and abrasion. This perfect all-purpose
it, workwear is utilitarian because it serves a dis-
coat is built to last and more than ready for any
tinct purpose. Now it just happens to be worn not
tough work environment.
only at work but in everyday life.
“We used CORDURA® Naturalle™ because we
CORDURA® brand is the common denominator
needed ultimate durability in our ultimate work
between apparel for work and apparel for adven-
jacket,” says Sara DeLuca, co-founder and direc-
ture and will continue to be the core of durability
tor of product development. “It fits perfectly with
for the next 50 years and beyond.
Dovetail Workwear's versatile range and stated
I MAG E C OU RTE SY D OVETIAL
Work durable, Live Durable™
résistance is a high-performance work jacket
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Down
Sam Lee + Her Unexpected Breakthrough by Hatie Parmeter
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I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF TH E I NTE R N ET
for the People
H
ave you ever thought about the individual behind
dustry sustainability standards changed, Sustainable Down Source
the development of the technology in your outdoor
needed to update DownTek™, their water-repellent down.
gear? Not just the person who manufactured it, sewing the baffles in a sleeping bag or seam-seal-
At Sustainable Down Source, Lee began researching cluster prop-
ing a tent, but the actual person whose careful research and
erties and chemicals that have a history of adhering well to down.
intellectual property are responsible for the functionality of your
She contacted authors of scientific papers on the subject and
favorite product?
asked what techniques they’d used. From those conversations, she walked away with too many variables to tweak individually, so she
As of Fall 2018, there’s a chance you’ll soon be wearing or sleep-
turned to an online course on experiment principles to set values for
ing with a new innovation called PFC-free water-repellent down,
properties like shake time, pH and cure time.
created in part by Sam Lee. Lee says, “Down is a 3D anomaly structure with a lot of surface Lee grew up in Bethesda, Maryland, and while she and her family
area. The coating would be different than for other textiles.” She
took occasional camping and skiing trips along the East Coast, she
was truly starting from scratch.
says her love of the outdoors really took shape in college. With her research complete, Lee began experimenting in the lab. While pursuing a Bachelor’s degree in chemical and biological en-
Throughout two months, she ran variations on an experiment to see
gineering at Princeton University, Lee started leading backpacking
how long it would take two grams of a version of PFC-free, durable,
courses for incoming freshmen. She loved facilitating relationships and team building alongside the students without the presence of technology. “Being outside is so important to relationship building because you have this isolation, no cell phones,” Lee says. “People have to rely on each other to survive, to create fire and build shelters. You’re doing primitive things together, and I think that’s vital to relationships.” As her college graduation drew closer, Lee decided she wanted to use her skills and education to work for an
water-repellent down to sink in 400 mil-
“Down is a 3D anomaly structure with a lot of surface area. The coating would be different than for other textiles.” She was truly starting from scratch.
outdoor retailer like L.L. Bean. Her dad
liliters of water agitated using a shake machine. Her goal? Discover a solution that would last longer than 16.6 hours to surpass the durable, water-repellent down that contained PFCs. In July 2017, Lee tested a formula—and it worked. The down stayed dry for just under 36 hours. Lee was wary of the success, as such results are not always reproducible, so she ran the experiment a second time. Same results. That same day, as Lee’s excitement grew, lightning struck the lab, sparking a fire in the building. “I was in the middle
suggested joining a company that worked on the development of
of doing a test when I heard the alarm, so I dropped everything and
gear because it would allow Lee to combine her love of engineer-
ran out,” Lee recalls. She’d left her notebook with handwritten notes
ing with the outdoors.
from the trials inside. “Thankfully, it was okay,” she says. “If that had blown up, it would’ve been very disappointing.”
Lee reached out to Sustainable Down Source, one of the outdoor industry’s largest suppliers of down, with a simple question: “How
That same PFC-free water-repellent formula for down is now used
can I help you?” That question sparked an immediate response and
in DownTek™ ZeroPFC™, which is found in products made by Big
new internship at the company, where Lee helped test formulas for
Agnes, Brooks-Range Mountaineering Equipment, Enlightened
a PFC-free water-repellent down.
Equipment and L.L. Bean.
PFCs, also known as perfluorinated chemicals, are man-made
Today, 22-year-old Lee is an associate with W.L. Gore and is inter-
compounds that have been used since the 1950s to repel grease
ested in combining corporate leadership and outdoor mentorship.
and create non-stick surfaces. These chemicals break down and
While she’s not sure what industries she’ll find herself in for the rest
enter the water supply, where they can have a negative effect on
of her career, Lee wants to be a leader. “I want to have the influence
human and animal fertility, fetal growth and endocrine systems, ac-
to mentor others and watch them grow,” she says. “I’m passionate
cording to the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences.
about using my experience to help people launch their careers.”
As consumers became more outspoken about their values and in-
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HEALING MOVEMENT
ACOSIA RED ELK CREATED POW-WOW Y O GA FOR HE R PE OP L E
I
Words, Images + Collages by Amanda Leigh Smith
n one of the most geologically diverse areas of Oregon, at the base of the Blue Mountains, lies the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. Prior to European contact, the members of the Cayuse, Umatilla and Walla Walla tribes lived in the Columbia River region for more than 10,000 years, moving cyclically from the lowlands along the Columbia
River to the highlands of the Blue Mountains to fish, hunt and gather food. This beautiful landscape of rolling hills and wide-open plains of the Columbia Plateau is home to 39-year-old Acosia Red Elk, world champion jingle dancer and creator of powwow yoga. Acosia is a member of the Umatilla Tribe and descendent from the Chief Joseph band of the Nez Perce. She also identifies with Scottish, Irish, Norwegian Dutch, Seneca and Mi’kmaq ancestry. When Acosia Red Elk was 6 years old, she stood next to a fire to warm her legs. In a matter of seconds, the trajectory of her and her family’s lives changed forever, as flames crept up the back of Acosia’s homemade velvet gown. Before she knew what was happening, her sister had pushed her to the ground and was smothering the flames. The burns were severe, and Acosia, which means "young swan rising" and “from the fire,” was airlifted from Pendleton to Portland, where she and her mother spent a month at a hospital burn unit. Back home, Acosia’s older sister took care of her father and two brothers. The event put a major strain on her family. It sent her father into a downward spiral of alcoholism, eventually leading to his untimely death. “My dad died because he didn’t have an outlet,” Acosia says. “He didn’t have services like we have today to help him deal. The awareness wasn’t there about what trauma does to us and what holding onto our trauma does to our body.” Acosia struggled with insecurities about her scars, the guilt of catching fire and the pain her family endured in the aftermath. “I was a little ashamed,” she says. “I was pissed off at the world because of my accident and my dad died and I was living in an environment that was unhealthy.” When Acosia was 11 years old, her mother encouraged her to participate in a fire-walking workshop to overcome her fear of fire and past trauma. Acosia learned how to use the power of thought to control her body through meditation. She learned to envision her strength to conquer her fears. Walking across the hot coals was an empowering moment for Acosia.
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As a teenager, she struggled with drugs and alcohol but remained close to her mother, who she says was a constant source of support and empowerment. When she was 16 years old, Acosia began attending longhouse powwows. Longhouses, a traditional Native American dwelling, are common places to hold modern day powwows, where various tribes come together for celebrations of singing, dancing and prayer. Inspired by the dancers’ confidence, Acosia envisioned herself taking up jingle dance and becoming a world champion jingle dancer. A few years later, she fell in love with a champion dancer named Paris. Paris coached Acosia, and in 1998, in her first jingle dance competition, she took home the top prize. Acosia and Paris took off together for the next 10 years, attending powwows and entering jingle dance competitions 50 weekends a year. In 2004, Acosia was invited to be the lead female dancer at the Gathering of Nations, the largest powwow in the world. She won first place and wound up winning seven years in a row, an accomplishment no one had yet achieved. Dancing in unison with the other jingle dancers and being a part of the powwow circuit gave Acosia an identity she’d lacked in her youth. Jingle dancing ignited a new feeling within her. “The moment I took my first step on the dance floor, I was so scared, but then, boom—I remember thinking, ‘This is where I’m supposed to be,’” Acosia says. “I’d been beating myself up about my legs. I hate my legs; I hate my scars. Yet they are carrying me out here.”
“The moment I took my first step on the dance floor, I was so scared, but then, boom—I remember thinking, ‘This is where I’m supposed to be.’” In 2014, Acosia discovered Buti yoga. The only exercise she knew was jingle dancing, and she’d never been to a group workout before. The experience was so powerful it brought Acosia to tears. Conscious of her breathing and movement, she felt as though she was releasing trauma from ancient times, emotions passed down from her ancestors. She wanted to share the empowerment she felt with others and got a teaching certificate. Through yoga, Acosia believes she can save her people. “Every time we bear children, we pass along our trauma,” she says. “If we don’t start taking care of ourselves now, the pattern will continue. We need to start changing these patterns. We need to start letting go of all the things that no longer serve us.” Acosia created powwow yoga to encourage people to practice yoga, connect with their bodies and have fun. Taking what she knows from dance and yoga, powwow yoga is a fusion of both. The discipline blends the high energy, pounding feet moves and high kicks of jingle dancing with the fluidity of yoga. It delivers strength, cardio, stretching and meditation in one workout and teaches people to build a strong foundation. “We need to feel grounded and strong physically because then we feel more grounded and strong mentally,” Acosia says. She teaches her classes at Wellness Wave, a yoga, health and fitness studio on the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. Acosia takes small steps every day to share powwow yoga and health awareness in her community. “As native people, we believe in indigenizing fitness, getting out there and doing all of our old activities we used to do, like hunting, hiking and fishing,” Acosia says. “It’s about getting in touch with your physical culture.”
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Embracing Nature as an athlete + artist Words + Images by Sarah Attar
30
mouNtain trails
training for
CitY maRathons on
a summer of trail runs of sunrises and wildflowers cool mornings paired with the first touch of pink on the peaks countless lakes and high alpine swims mountain passes good company and some of my favorite miles I've ever run
f
or two months this summer, every single Sun-
mountain passes, the altitude and the hours of move-
day run was a trail run above 10,000 feet,
ment would prep me well for future marathons. But may-
between 15 and 26 miles and had an average
be more importantly, these runs transformed my mind.
elevation gain of 3,000 feet. These runs have
all been part of my buildup for the Chicago Marathon, a
They provided hours of calm engagement with the
flat, road race at sea level. I didn't seek out these stats. I
land, mountains, lakes, dirt, wildflowers and others on
just wanted to be deeper in the hills, to see some lakes
the trail. These Sunday runs in the mountains became
I've dreamt of and embrace the land a little more con-
sacred. To find myself deep among the vistas I've gazed
sciously.
at for years, surrounded by an expanding world, feeling so grateful for these views and experiences brought a
I live in the Eastern Sierra, one of the most epic stretch-
peace and contentedness unlike any other.
es of Earth I've come across. The ease of access to these types of trails is unparalleled, so I made it a priority
How did this all play out in the Chicago Marathon? I ran
to take full advantage of that this past season.
a personal best time by four minutes. There may be a million other factors, and correlation doesn't necessar-
In the last three-and-a-half years living and training here,
ily prove causation, but I believe in these runs and the
I’ve had some extremely profound experiences spend-
power of these landscapes. I know they have a positive
ing time deeper in the mountains. My connection to
influence on my being and what I'm capable of.
this place has the most beautiful impact on my being. After back-to-back 10-mile runs to Meysan Lake out of
I keep coming back to a quote by Rebecca Solnit,
Whitney Portal near Lone Pine, California, back in June,
one of my favorite authors: “Mountaineering is always
I knew these mountain runs were going to be a crucial
spoken of as though summiting is conquest, but as you
component to my fall marathon buildup.
get higher, the world gets bigger, and you feel smaller in proportion to it, overwhelmed and liberated by how
One big run I've dreamt of since moving to this area
much space is around you, how much room to wander,
was always on the horizon—a 26.2-mile trail run from
how much unknown.”
Mammoth Lakes, California, to Yosemite National Park. It’s an unsanctioned marathon in the mountains, and in
When our world expands, what our minds know also
July, we completed it.
expands, which means what we are capable of expands, too. So here's to the mountains, which I'll continue to call
These trail runs were, of course, incredible physical
both home and training ground for years to come, and
training. I knew the big miles on the trail, the sheer
to creating more moments like these, more moments of
exhaustion of ascending the countless switchbacks of
profound beauty and the exploration of possibility.
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BAL A NCING
LIFE
With
Maddy Minnis on Photography + Nomad Life
I MAG E BY MADDY M I N N I S
by Jeff Thrope
M
addy Minnis, also known as @mongobbq to her followers, is an Instagram favorite among outdoor enthusiasts. Minnis has a unique way of capturing the unique rock formations, campsites and loneliness of the American West, adding her own brand of humor and sense of subtle adventure.
Minnis has two go-to items for every exploration. During New Mexico’s cold, snowy, high desert winters, she doesn’t leave home without her Danner Mountain 600 Weatherized Boots or her iPhone camera. The high desert is loaded with extremes, and Minnis' Danner boots are compatible with the vast variety of challenges she can encounter on any given day. Minnis can tromp over cacti without a second thought, climb muddy clay hills, cross icy rivers and traverse snowfields. Having a pair of reliable, warm boots to tackle drastic weather patterns, and capture photos, is non-negotiable for Minnis. We caught up with Minnis to learn how she wound up in New Mexico, her photography style, why she prefers using her iPhone camera and how she balances life on and off the road.
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I MAG E S BY B RAN D ON SODE R
During New Mexico’s cold, snowy, high desert winters, she doesn’t leave home without her Danner Mountain 600 Weatherized Boots or her iPhone camera
37
up. It’s a constant balance of acquiring and letting go, but I’ve embraced that transient nature. Regardless, the transition itself is always challenging. Social and financial priorities shift depending on where and how I’m living, and it takes a while to settle into them. I was still sleeping in my sleeping bag a month after moving into my current home. I’ve only just started using my stove and dressing in normal clothes every day. When I’m traveling, it can be a struggle to get into a productive work schedule, as I’ve never had a proper vanlife setup. It’s also hard saying goodbye to a community you’ve grown into. However, nothing is permanent, so I’m learning not to hold onto anything too tightly. Sometimes, I need to feel my roots; sometimes, I need to feel my wings. I think the ideal would be to just own a home and travel at will from that base. Why have you hesitated to take up photography as a career? My first job as a photographer was shooting in-house marketing and product photography, and it felt pretty devoid of all the things I loved about taking pictures. It almost pushed me to maximize my weekends and dive into environmental photography as a strictly personal project. My best and most enjoyable work is made under conditions that focus on I MAG E BY MAD DY M I N N I S
the journey over the destination. I travel and hike because I love it, not in order to take pictures, and I don’t want my relationship with those experiences to change. That said, I’m now able to take on jobs that might not be financially rewarding but will give me the kind of experiences I’m after. As long as I have some other external form of income, I can continue exploring photography without sacrificing what I love about it.
When did you start traveling around the West? I moved to New Mexico in 2013, and my inner nomad was immediately unleashed. I’d always had [nomadic] tendencies. I’d bounced around the East Coast for years. It’s a whole new game in the West, though, and I was so ready to play. What is it about New Mexico that keeps bringing you back? New Mexico is known as the land of both enchantment and entrapment. Living in New Mexico allows me to work as a motion graphics artist for clients globally while also having some of the most beautiful and wild scenery just outside my door. This state can feel so timeless and untouchable at times, like an old friend. It feels like home. How would you describe your photography? Environmental and experiential. I’m captivated by the immaculate balance of color and form that I find in nature. I shoot a lot of landscapes because I’m moved to capture my journey to and experience in these places. My intention is not to portray something unattainable or otherworldly but something we’re all part of. You take most of your photos on your iPhone. Why is that your favorite medium? The long answer is I’m more interested in the adventure than taking pictures. I don’t want photography to impede my experience or take me out of the I MAG E BY B RAN D ON SODE R
moment. The less equipment to interfere in the process, the better. The short answer is it fits in my sports bra. What challenges come with switching between life on the road and life at home so often? Everything is a challenge, but that’s part of what drives me to do it. As soon as one lifestyle becomes too comfortable, I start feeling the itch to switch things
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I MAG E S BY MADDY M I N N I S
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frontiers of the Anthropocene i m a g e de f i n iti o n f o r inspiration Words + Images by Noelle Phares
Mountainsides Watercolor, acrylic, gouache and pencil on paper The Sierra Nevada are at once majestically isolated and teeming with evidence of humanity. Where I grew up in the northern part of the range, rural communities dot the foothills. Aging infrastructure accompanies them: archaic buildings, abandoned electrical lines. The structural geometry in this piece represents the way these structures interplay with routes up to untamed peaks.
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aRchiPelAgo Watercolor, acrylic, gouache, ink and pencil on paper Deep in the northern Atlantic Ocean, the Faroe Islands jut out of icy waters like the fins of sharks. Like many islanders, the human inhabitants face resource constraints. The most palpable? Space itself. The cliffs continuously erode as waves, tourist foot traffic and coastal development bear down on them. The sheer cliffs central to this piece are depicted in black and white to express the distillation of their value to modern humans. They have progressed from being dynamic, geological entities to precious commodities.
ZeNith Acrylic, watercolor, gouache, pencil and linen on paper Dillon Reservoir of Colorado’s Summit County has a tale not dissimilar from many water bodies near populated mountainous regions of the U.S. With a rich mining history, acid mine drainage (AMD) has long compromised the health of waters downstream from mines. AMD occurs when mining exposes rocky surfaces that contain an abundance of sulfide minerals or liquid draining from coal stocks travels into waterways. Both activities change the chemistry of the water, often turning it orange, symbolized by the vertical orange stripes running through “Zenith.”
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bRidlE Acrylic, gouache and pencil on paper Waters of the American West travel far on their paths from snowy peaks to desert canyons. During the 20th century, pressure from growing western metropolises raised thousands of dams and reservoirs to delay the passage of these waters for agriculture, hydropower generation and urban consumption. The abstract dam depicted in this piece explores how landscapes on-site and downstream from such entities evolve drastically to accommodate new paths of flow, alterations in animal passage and redistribution of sediment and nutrients.
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My JouR Self−DiscoVery + Words + Image by Halcy Webster
m
ost people who knew me as a child
Peninsula. I wasn’t always confident about my
When I first realized I was transgender, I desper-
wouldn’t recognize me now. The tiny,
place in the world, but I was sure of two things.
ately tried to not be trans because I was afraid of
shy kid who was always avoiding
One, I loved being outside and wanted to rock
religious and social condemnation from my family.
people has become an articulate, athletic and
climb. Two, I was transgender. Both were in direct
I had internalized a lot of the unhealthy beliefs I
confident outdoorswoman. The kid that only
conflict with my home.
was taught growing up. I was a racist, misogy-
knew bigotry while growing up is now advo-
nistic, homophobic and transphobic person who
cating for marginalized people. Another reason
Being transgender means you identify as a gen-
thought poor people just weren’t trying hard
people wouldn’t, and don’t, recognize me? I’m
der that is different from what was assigned to
enough. It’s tough to admit that’s who I was.
transgender.
you by a doctor on your birth certificate. So, if someone identifies as a transgender man, that
But this is a story of progress. Progress
I grew up in an ultra-conservative home that pri-
means the doctor put an "F" for female on their
means recognizing and acknowledging your
oritized isolation, patriarchal control and judging
birth certificate. If you are not transgender, you
faults and evolving.
others. We lived in Michigan, which has some
are cisgender, which means the gender you iden-
nice hiking trails and rivers but largely lacks the
tify as corresponds with your doctor-assigned
One of the best decisions I ever made was moving
“true outdoors,” unless you venture to the Upper
birth sex. I am a woman who is transgender.
into my car, traveling North America and learning
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RneY RadIcaL
Of CHange
how to climb. It was rather surprising to see how
My time on the road also gave me relief from the
liefs I needed to reject in order to love myself had
much difference the physical activity and outdoor
isolation and bigoted beliefs of my family. I met a
also been holding me back from loving others fully.
exposure made on had on the anxiety and de-
lot of unique people and was encouraged to ex-
pression I’d dealt with for most of my childhood.
periment with different ideas. I began to voice my
My processes of learning to climb and how to be a
It gave me a sense of agency and proved I could
opinion on issues without worry of being judged.
more compassionate person were not two paral-
become a climber even though I was from a place
I could truly appreciate other people’s perspec-
lel, linear paths. However, each one fed the other.
with no rocks, without a teacher. That realization
tives when there wasn’t a voice invalidating their
Without climbing, I’m not sure I would’ve been in
was incredibly powerful. It gave me a glimpse of
experience. Ultimately, I was given a chance to
a place to tackle those difficult internal issues, and
a future where I was free to be me.
reinvent myself.
in turn, learning to love has impacted every aspect
I thought I deserved to be suicidal. I thought trans
I had long wanted to consider myself a kind and
people were unlovable and therefore I was unlov-
loving person. But it was only after I gave up my
able. That my life wasn’t worth living. However,
own self-loathing that I could actualize that. It took
as I learned to love myself and started to climb, I
a lot of work, but my world transformed when I
began to challenge those ideas.
accepted myself as a trans person. The set of be-
of my life. It has enabled me to embrace who I am
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and live to my fullest.
I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF EC C O
LeadiNg By InVentiOn The collaborative roots of advanced technology at ECCO by Nina Stotler
W
hen the editorial team at RANGE started thinking about
through to their recent headline-grabbing DYNEEMA® BONDED Leather.
what progress means for the outdoor industry and beyond
Introduced as part of the company’s EXOSTRIKE Collection in 2018, this
in 2019, the conversation immediately turned to the subject
innovation has produced the thinnest and strongest leather in the market,
of innovation. Progress is impossible without creative inno-
making a splash at leading tradeshows and in the press.
vation, and we consider ourselves lucky to work alongside brands who are consistently pushing the world of design forward through genuine invention
So how does ECCO achieve such adventurous and unique partnerships
of materials and applications.
while also pursuing sustainability and a strategic crossover into the lifestyle category? Like most things, it starts with a commitment to a 360-degree
Technical progress is the very foundation of the footwear category, where
approach of collaboration as part of an all-under-one-roof policy.
comfort, durability, waterproofing and weight are crucial. Consumers often don’t think of leather as the most advanced material they can purchase, nor
Since ECCO owns their supply chain and factories, the design and produc-
is the incredibly technical process of leather finishing widely understood.
tion teams work side by side. This integrated control means a new silhouette from the outdoor team can receive organic input from a fashion designer, and
Family-owned Danish shoe brand ECCO is here to change all of that,
everyone has access to the most advanced technical material discoveries in
building on expertise that began with a single factory in 1963 and carries
real time. The spirit of community experimentation even extends to unique
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“Consumers often don’t think of leather as the most advanced material they can purchase, nor is the incredibly technical process of leather finishing widely understood. Familyowned Danish shoe brand ECCO is here to change all of that.” events like the annual ECCO Hot-Shop, where elite designers, artists, marketers and technicians in fashion, industrial design and electronics are invited to challenge conventional leather creation during an intensive four-day workshop. Collaboration in the studio and the lab sets a high standard, as do ECCO’s innovations for sustainability. “We constantly strive to reduce the environmental impact of our operations while increasing the positive impact we have in our communities,” says ECCO. “We wish to be an environmentally-responsible neighbor and conserve resources for future generations through sustainable development.” Public awareness of the creation of wastewater in the fashion industry has grown, and ECCO is tackling this by developing a patented procedure called DriTan™. This technology saves huge amounts of water—roughly 25 million liters annually—by using the moisture from the hides themselves, which preserves the leather’s natural collagens while also considerably reducing the amount of chemicals necessary to soften the materials. “As a manufacturer of leather and shoes we consume natural resources every day,” says ECCO. “In step with increases in production capacity, we ensure that we implement environmentally sound methods and technology.” To ECCO, progress means honoring a legacy of manufacturing premium, leather goods while looking ahead to the future of footwear. True creativity should never be limited, and in 2019, outdoor innovators are working more holisticially than ever.
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hArmONY Words + Images by Rob Schanz
J
apan is a diverse country, known for its distinct gardens, tea houses and traditional arts as well as its natural beauty. The island nation is home to striking mountains and is notorious for incredible amounts of fresh, lightweight powder.
Some friends and I spent several weeks between Hokkaido and Hakuba, two areas known for their skiing and snowboarding, following storms and monitoring low-pressure systems. Even during an off year on Hokkaido, the snow did not disappoint. Much like the mountains need snow, the snowboarder needs friends. Friendships create a harmony that makes adventure travel special, be it in Japan or elsewhere. Snowboarding isn’t just about finding the best powder; it’s about finding people who share the same passion—who drive through the night, travel to far places and hike beyond seemingly safe limits all for the high that comes with gliding down a mountain. Hokkaido and Hakuba without snow are akin to an adventure travel experience without friends.
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51
Meet Marijuana’s Sober Cousin,
by Sophie Goodman
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I MAG E C OU RTE SY OF TH E I NTE R N ET
Hemp
F
or most people, a brief scan of LinkedIn, commenting
Hemp is also naturally antibacterial, antimicrobial, UV-resistant
on a post or responding to an invitation to connect
and biodegradable. It also bests cotton when it comes to envi-
counts as the week’s networking effort and activity.
ronmental impact. Cotton, the thirstiest crop in the world, uses
Brianna Kilcullen is not most people. When I call
24 percent of the world’s insecticides and pesticides. Hemp is a
Kilcullen mid-October, a cheery voice with a cold greets me
regenerative crop that revitalizes the soil, uses little to no water
on the other end. After two weeks abroad in Europe, attending
and doesn’t need insecticides or pesticides.
conferences and meeting potential collaborators, she’s relieved to be back home in Jacksonville, Florida. Vegetables and sleep
Kilcullen says, “I worry a bit that we put too much pressure on
had been hard to come by during those hectic weeks abroad.
[hemp’s] ability to reverse the negative consequences we’ve had with cotton production. Will it work? I don’t know.”
Kilcullen, a sustainability and supply chain consultant and self-described introvert, is no newbie to entrepreneurism nor
That unknown isn’t holding Kilcullen back. A radical spirit with
adaptability. From a stint with the Secret Service to working on
international
development
and land equity in South Sudan and Northern Uganda, to leading supply chain management and corporate social responsibility programs at outdoor industry companies, Kilcullen has woven a varied career. Today, she’s carving out a unique space in one of the most fraught sectors of the outdoor industry: textiles. In recent years, the outdoor industry has taken a more vocal stance on sustainability and social responsibility. A 2018 report from the U.N.’s Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change amplified the urgency of these initiatives, and with textiles, hemp may be the clearest solution. Kilcullen was first introduced to hemp while traveling in Qingdao,
a desire to merge big business
The company’s ethos draws on the history of the crop as integral to the founding of the U.S.—the first flag was sewn from hemp fiber, the Founding Fathers were hemp farmers and the U.S. Constitution was drafted on hemp paper—and Kilcullen’s desire to align business, social responsibility and environmental goals.
China. “I had the opportunity to
with positive change, she founded We the People, a company that makes hemp towels, in 2017. The company’s ethos draws on the history of the crop as integral to the founding of the U.S.—the first flag was sewn from hemp fiber, the Founding Fathers were hemp farmers and the U.S. Constitution was drafted on hemp paper—and Kilcullen’s desire to align business, social and environmental goals. So where does hemp stand? In December 2018, President Donald Trump signed the 2018 Farm Bill, which includes a provision to allow the legal cultivation of hemp. Ideally, we’ll soon see hemp move from hushed conversations at conferences—legend goes that Giorgio Armani used to make his famous suits exclusively of hemp, though now the fiber is
see firsthand the impact hemp has had on the Chinese govern-
totally taboo—to being widely recognized and utilized as one
ment, military, farmers and economy,” Kilcullen says. “It changed
of the best options for environment-friendly textiles.
me forever.” We the People’s towels are in development, and the company In the U.S., hemp’s status is complicated both legally and cultur-
plans to launch a Kickstarter campaign in 2019. Kilcullen was re-
ally, and stakeholders must get comfortable with radical innova-
cently nominated as one of MJBizCon’s 2019 Women to Watch.
tion in what is known as a “disruptors’ arena.” She says, “I’m excited to be a part of reintroducing hemp back “Hemp is a pretty lethal fiber,” Kilcullen says. “It’s multifaceted
into the U.S. and to create a transparent industry that makes
in a way that cotton, polyester and nylon are not. You can use
products to replace cotton and that’s better for people and for
the seed for food, the fiber for textiles and the hurd can be used
the planet.”
for building homes.”
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R A N G E
+
Timeless
fo r
Design 54
R O A M E R S Words by Whitney Connolly Images by Logan Kruse
M
ike Lynch, founder and CEO of Creative Priority, a full-service sales and creative agency, is no stranger to building a brand. When the opportunity to work with a 20-year-old outerwear
factory presented itself, he enlisted longtime friend and designer Kelsey Van Patten to help bring his vision to life. Both shared a passion for fashion, the outdoors and sustainability and agreed they wanted to create timeless designs for the modern explorer. Roamers, a brand at the intersection of fashion and the outdoors, was born. A mix of elevated basics and updated classics, Roamers manufactures a collection of men’s and women’s apparel featuring design-driven details, sustainable fabrics and high-quality materials. Their products are made for a life on the road by those who embrace the duality of urban living and the wild spirit of the great outdoors. Last year, as RANGE Magazine Founder and Editorial Director Jeanine Pesce was researching brands making an environmental impact, Roamers’ mission to blend the utility of outdoor apparel with an understated eco-sensibility caught her eye. She reached out directly to Lynch and immediately started brainstorming the perfect uniform for the ultimate “girl gang.” Eventually, they settled on a RANGE + ROAMERS kit comprised of 100% organic (GOTS) cotton Madryn Coveralls with custom chain stitch, a Port Chore Coat and Bayberry Cropped Pants. “The diligence, passion and commitment required to not only create but maintain a sustainable product and brand in this industry is a huge feat,” Pesce says. “So many brands get into a production cycle, realize the financial and time commitments and unfortunately go with cheaper, faster practices. Roamers is dedicated to creating functional, made-to-last fashion for the modern outdoors, which is a necessary shift away from the wasteful, fast-fashion faction.” We’re all roamers at our core—a community brought together by way of curiosity to share stories and experiences through mutual admiration. Come Spring 2019, you can find the RANGE + ROAMERS kit online. Knowing how important it is to give back to and care for our environment, a portion of proceeds will go to 1% for the Planet.
t h e Mo d e r n E x p l o re r 55
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I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF U N ITE D BY B LU E
ith
by Brian Linton
if
t
w
Sh
s
pply Ch u S ai n g in
United By Blue
A
s United By Blue nears 10 years in business, I find myself
Yet in an industry that praises sustainable product design, we often forget
thinking more about what it is to build a sustainable busi-
sustainability is not simply about what a company makes. Companies are far
ness and what the future definition of sustainability should
too complex to judge them solely on what a consumer sees on a retailer’s
be—both for us as a company and the world as a whole.
shelves. True sustainability comes from a holistic view of a company and all its inner workings.
The main realization I’ve had after working in the industry for so many years is that sustainability is not, and cannot be, a status quo. What is sustainable
When I look at United By Blue, I know we are only as sustainable as the sum
today is probably not the most sustainable solution a year from now. It’s an
of all our parts—from the electricity that powers our properties, to the fibers
evermoving target that has to be continuously monitored and readdressed.
we use in our products, to the thousands of volunteers we work with each
My hope for the future is that the definition of, and our capabilities for, sus-
year at the cleanups organized and hosted by our company. Understanding
tainability evolves so far beyond our current definition that we look back and
this may seem rudimentary, but I believe it is all too often overlooked as we
view our current practices and products as downright harmful.
jump to judge a company on its finished product and never lift the hood to see what is inside.
Several years ago, United By Blue embarked on a journey to identify and utilize natural materials that were going to waste but could instead be made
A critical and holistic view of sustainability is important because our world
into product. Even though wool is a readily-available and cost-effective
is at a point in history where business leaders must not only think about
natural fiber, we knew there were other fibers being wasted—discarded or
lessening their environmental impact but eliminating it altogether. No busi-
destroyed in industries with undeveloped supply chains.
ness has achieved this yet, and United By Blue is not even close. However, having a collective understanding of our shortcomings is the only way to
In our research, we discovered the luxurious, warm fiber from the North
progress beyond what we currently claim to be sustainable. It's only through
American bison was discarded in the process of raising bison for meat.
our understanding and criticism of what we currently deem good for the en-
We’ve since incorporated that fiber into United By Blue products, from socks
vironment that we are able to push forward, improve and evolve our practices
to outerwear. We took something with no commercial value and not only
and definition of what it means to be sustainable.
gave it commercial value but also a net positive gain for the environment.
59
Para las morenas que
luchan por verse brillar Words by Rocío Villalobos Illustration by José G. González
60
T
he outdoors saved my life. When I thought
the warmth of the sun on my skin and the sight of the stars
a black hole of depression and an eating
and the Milky Way at night.
disorder would swallow me whole, walks and runs along a lakeside trail were my therapy.
And yet, out there, I felt invisible again. Where were the
Despite my parents’ love, I felt lost and worthless as a child,
hikers and campers who looked like me? As a woman of
acutely aware I was different.
color, was I actually safe in the middle-of-nowhere?
My story stretches across the Americas, divided by bor-
I knew what the outdoors was capable of doing for me and
ders, compartmentalized by language. My name tests the
wanted to diversify our outdoor spaces. So I began search-
patience of people who are too lazy to make an effort to
ing for more ways to spend time outside and bring others
pronounce it. They add or remove letters as they please.
with me. I started volunteering at Explore Austin, an organi-
Rocío, “dew.” Villalobos, “village of the wolves.” In seventh
zation that helps kids become resilient leaders through out-
grade, I started writing my name with an accent mark in
door adventure. As a woman of color at an organization that
an effort to reclaim myself, even though English and Spanish are languages of the colonizers. What language is left for me to speak and identity with when both taste like loss? I was both invisible and hypervisible growing up. In school, I simultaneously felt cast aside and put under a microscope. As one of the few students of color, the burden of proving my worth and intelligence weighed heavily on me. My experiences were missing from the curriculum, and it wasn’t until college that I learned about people who looked like me and had stories like mine. As an adult, I learned my
The outdoors showed me who I am. As a woman of color at an organization that primarily serves kids of color, it’s important to me that these girls see me and others who look like them in leadership positions.
great-grandparents were indige-
primarily serves kids of color, it’s important to me that these girls see me and others who look like them in leadership positions. In being present, we can create opportunities for other women of color. I started an outdoor adventure group to build community among such women who love and want to spend time in nature. The group is designed to create a space particularly for women of color who are apprehensive to adventure outside because they don’t want to go alone or are not sure they’ll feel welcomed. We go on day hikes and camping trips throughout Texas and share gear, transportation and food.
nous people. They did not pass their language or culture on to their children, so my grandparents and then parents,
I want to continue creating dialogue and action around
never identified as indigenous. Pero tengo el nopal en
diversity, equity and inclusion in the outdoors. I’ve been
la frente. My skin, eyes and cheekbones are all distinctly
privileged to spend time outside gaining a better under-
indigenous. I am distinctly not white.
standing of myself and the space I want to carve out in this world. I want to support others, especially other women
The outdoors showed me who I am. My walks along the
of color, to do the same. I’ve found that reconnecting with
lakeside trail morphed into longer hikes, camping trips and
the land is a decolonial project for me, one of discovering
long-distance running. Following my first night camping
and remembering where I come from. Colonization taught
under the stars, I felt so deeply at home in the outdoors.
my ancestors to hide and erase their indigeneity to survive.
Out there, my mind was at rest; my soul was at peace. I fell
Now, my work is to unearth the stories and cultures of my
in love with the sound of tent zippers opening and closing,
ancestors in order to thrive.
For more info on Villalobos' outdoor adventure group, mess age her at @thexicanaexplorer on Inst agram.
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I MAG E C OU RTE SY OF 3 S I STE R S ADVE NTU R E TR E K K I NG C OM PANY
Guide the Way
Training + Employing Local Women
by Emily Hopcian
62
A
cross the globe, male backcountry guides outnumber
In many regions, the lack of women in this industry is the result of
their female counterparts by a staggering proportion,
cultural differences and social norms upheld over time.
with only 110 women among the 7,000 people certified with the International Federation of Mountain Guides
“Most people think these women are not prepared enough,” Gongora
Associations—a mere 1.6 percent.
says, “and the owners of these travel companies have that thought, conscious or subconscious. In the end, it’s all rooted in the societal
“There’s not much going on yet in terms of women empowerment
mindset that these women cannot do it, that men will always be able
in the trekking tourism industry,” says Marinel de Jesus, founder and
to do it better. That’s what we have to overcome.”
CEO of Peak Explorations and Brown Gal Trekker. Gongora, Chhetri and de Jesus agree it will take time to see sigSmall as it may be, there is a mighty force of bold, adventurous and
nificant progress, but creating opportunities for women can yield
skilled female guides working in their local communities or traveling
positive changes for everyone.
internationally. These women are both independent contractors or employed by agencies, but these existing companies rarely inten-
“When you introduce women into the industry, it’s such an innovative
tionally train and employ female guides.
concept that everyone starts to question everything else,” de Jesus says. “It forces everyone to question their best practices and opens
We spoke with several who are shifting their focus to elevating local women: 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Company, Evolution Treks Peru and Peak Explorations. 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Company in Pokhara, Nepal, employs female guides to lead treks in the Himalayas and works in partnership with its sister organization, Empowering Women of Nepal. Both were both founded in 1994 by Lucky, Dicky and Nicky Chhetri, three sisters from India. “When I think about our initial days, there were no women guides,” Lucky Chhetri says. “Women didn’t know they could be guides. Women’s power to work and do other things was really underestimated.”
the door to a discussion of major changes.”
“When you introduce women into the industry, it’s such an innovative concept that everyone starts to question everything else. It forces everyone to question their best practices and opens the door to a discussion of major changes.”
In terms of gender equality, there is substantial room for progress, especially on a local level. So what does progress look like, and who gets to decide it’s being made? For de Jesus, it’s simple. “Progress should be measured based on the people you’re trying to empower or elevate,” she says. “You can’t go to a country, say you want to create progress and never ask the people you’re trying to empower what their thoughts are about the progress being made. It’s all about voice. Whose voice are you picking to define progress?”
Today, more than 2,000 Nepalese women have completed training
For Gongora, progress carries many layers. “One way we can define
with Empowering Women of Nepal. 3 Sisters employs more than 100
progress is when what we’re doing is no longer limited to our area of
women as guides.
operation,” he says. “The news that women are being included is out there. The demand for women porters has increased, which means
“Through this work, now these women are enjoying their lives, making
there are more opportunities for women to work.”
money and learning so much,” Chhetri says. “They’re able to live with their own dignity.”
Like de Jesus, Gongora says women must be the ones who define progress. “They have the final analysis,” he says. “They must be the
Similarly in Cusco, Peru, Evolution Treks Peru trains, supports and
ones to say how enriching, or not, their experiences have been.”
employs local women as guides and porters in the Sacred Valley. Before the company’s start in November 2016, Director Miguel Angel
Chhetri sees room for progress in guiding beyond leading treks
Gongora says only a handful of women had worked as guides on the
in the mountains. “There are many other areas in which we can
Inca Trail, mostly at the assistant level. The company is the first to
include women,” she says. “They can also be rafting, paragliding or
employ women as porters on the trail and currently works with seven
bicycling guides.”
female guides and 26 female porters. The takeaway for those who wish to travel responsibly and leave a Marinel de Jesus’ Peak Explorations is a social enterprise with a mis-
positive impact? Research and support companies and organizations
sion to change the trekking tourism industry as a whole by vetting and
that operate ethically and sustainably, that do well by the local peo-
collaborating with companies like Evolution Treks Peru to create and
ple, communities and environments in which they do business.
implement a new model. “I’m really hoping we can just normalize the roles of women in the in“The goal is to create a new way of running the industry in which
dustry,” de Jesus says. “Eventually, I hope it’s just normal that women
there is more equity and inclusion,” she says. “I look for allies all over
are part of it.”
the world.”
63
Affinity Spaces
by Jill Sanford
64
I MAG E BY B E N JOE L P I NG I LLEY
+ Their Impact on Outdoor Culture
“I
almost left this community because I didn't see
“Diversity is not necessarily the pinnacle of success,” says Ava
anyone like me and felt I didn't fit in,” says Halcy
Holliday, founding partner at the Avarna Group, a DEI consulting
Webster, a climber and member of the leadership
firm working with the outdoor industry and environmental organi-
team at Alpenglow Collective. “We need to let ev-
zations. “It can be an indicator, but it is not the only one. In ho-
eryone know they have a place in the outdoors.”
mogeneous spaces, we have to ask who has access and how we can dismantle barriers for those who don’t. That’s what compels
Alpenglow Collective seeks to do just that. Alpenglow is an in-
us to engage in equity efforts. That’s why affinity groups are equity
clusive platform where cisgender and transgender women, trans
efforts because they create room for people who previously have
people of all genders and all gender non-conforming people can
not been included.”
connect to find climbing partners and create lasting mentorships. Founded in 2016, Alpenglow is one of many single-identity spaces
As affinity groups and the range of identities they serve grow,
working to create room for marginalized identities in the outdoors.
they’re forming natural partnerships with one another.
A single-identity space, also known as an affinity group, is a group
“What makes the affinity group movement strong is when we stand
formed around a shared interest or common goal.
side-by-side and have each others’ backs,” Webster says.
“Affinity groups are starting to carve out their own path because the outdoor industry is moving too slow,” says Grace Anderson, director of PGM ONE, a community dedicated to supporting people of color in the outdoor and environmental realms. “As more groups start to take space, rather than asking for it, waiting for it to be created or become tokenized [by the outdoor industry], bigger organizations and companies are noticing these people are out here and realizing they have a voice and a place in the outdoors.” While the long-term impact of today’s single-identity spaces on outdoor culture is yet to be seen, affinity groups are pushing the broader dialogue about who is in the outdoors and who “deserves” to be there. They’re raising awareness of marginalized identities in the outdoors and also leading the discussion about diversity, signaling a long-term commitment toward a more
“As more groups start to take space, rather than asking for it, waiting for it to be created or become tokenized by the outdoor industry, bigger organizations and companies are noticing these people are out here and realizing they have a voice and a place in the outdoors.”
inclusive and equitable outdoor culture.
For example, Alpenglow and Brown Girls Climb have a membership overlap and often come together to support one another in their respective spaces. “The founders at Alpenglow are white, so we don’t have the correct experience to lead the charge against racism in climbing,” Webster says. “We definitely try to implement anti-racist practices and support Brown Girls Climb, but we want to be careful to not speak over people the world needs to listen to. Similarly, we have some special insight on gender issues that many other groups don't.” “At Brown Girls Climb, we acknowledge we can’t speak for everyone—and we don’t attempt to,” says Bethany Lebewitz, the organization’s founder. “What we can do is create spaces for others to lead. We want to highlight the entire spectrum of women of color
and the intersections we often carry within this identity. Through partnerships with organizations like Alpenglow, we can progress
“The [outdoor] community was already somewhat aware of inclu-
in creating sustainable efforts for spaces that shift the culture of
sion for cis women, but trans people were not even on the radar,”
the outdoors and ignite an intimate and safe relationship with the
Webster says. “People are becoming more aware of the existence
outdoors we all love.”
of trans people, though still not sure how to create the needed inclusion.”
The rise of affinity groups ultimately signals a shift in the outdoor industry and culture, as marginalized identities claim their own space
Education on the barriers faced by marginalized identities is an im-
in the outdoors and drive progress on their own terms.
portant first step to instigate change. But Webster, Anderson and other affinity group leaders agree the outdoor industry has barely
“At the heart of all these grassroots groups that have sprung up
scratched the surface with efforts for diversity, equity and inclusion.
over the last two years is [this idea] that these identities were being left out, tokenized or their stories were being told from other peo-
As the outdoor industry and culture struggles to diversify, affinity
ple’s perspectives and not their own,” Anderson says. “The affinity
groups may provide an answer to longstanding questions about
groups will only create more intersections of inclusion.”
inclusion and social responsibility.
65
LA FAMILIA Childhood Friends
Create Authentic
MEZCAL
I MAG E S C OU RTE SY OF MADR E
by Jeff Thrope
66
T
he rich history of mezcal produced in the Oaxaca
Wigand and Farfalla’s journey to create the Madre Mezcal
region of Mexico is an often overlooked element
brand began with their childhood friendship in Colorado, af-
for new fans of this smoky spirit. Some of the
ter which they kept in touch via Facebook. Five years ago,
best mezcal in the world can be found among
while working at a hotel in Montauk, New York, Wigand was
the rolling hills outside Oaxaca city in the small Zapotec town
out checking the surf when he randomly ran into Farfalla.
of San Dionisio, where archaeological evidence of an indigenous pre-Columbian civilization goes back at least 2,500
“There we were,” Wigand says. “Just two Colorado kids out in
years. The town is surrounded by a variety of wild agaves,
the ocean checking shitty waves.”
cared for by the Garcia Morales family for generations. Farfalla was camping in Montauk and invited Wigand, who For Stefan Wigand and Tony Farfalla, this connection to
was living out of his truck at the time, to join him and his
the land is woven into the essence of their brand, Madre
friends for the weekend. The two quickly caught up and
Mezcal. As Wigand and Farfalla developed a love for the
bonded over one of many bottles of mezcal Farfalla had
agave-based liquor and built Madre Mezcal, they worked
brought back from a recent trip to Oaxaca. That weekend,
closely with the Garcia Morales family to learn about and
they decided to cultivate a relationship with the masters of
uphold traditional production.
Oaxacan mezcal, so they could pay homage to the legacy of this sacred, multi-generational spirit.
Madre is produced by Jose Ines Garcia Morales and his family. Their small palenque, mezcal distillery, is just outside San
After some back and forth with friends and locals in Oaxaca,
Dionisio, where well water and clean air are among the active
Wigand and Farfalla were told to meet the Garcia Morales
ingredients in the process. Each step of making this mezcal
family just outside town. They arrived to a beautiful valley in
is personal and hands-on. Jose’s father and brothers lift and
the middle of nowhere and were greeted by the large family.
cut the agaves, his mother blesses the agave hearts before
That afternoon, Wigand and Farfalla tasted the family’s mez-
cooking them in the earth, his wife plants new agaves on the
cal, and everyone enjoyed a feast prepared for the occasion.
land and an extended group of uncles and cousins oversee the hours of distillation.
“It’s really become a family affair. I hate leaving Oaxaca. Eventually, I’m just going to stay.”
67
68
“They sat us down and told us they wanted us to be a part of every process,” Wigand recalls. “They wanted us to know what went into the mezcal and how it was made.” In the Garcia Moraleses, Wigand and Farfalla knew they’d found their extended family. They returned to the U.S. and bought a 1971 Ford truck to drive from Los Angeles back to Oaxaca to resume their research and development. The old truck broke down many times throughout 6,000 miles of back and forth traveling. Those adventures taught Wigand and Farfalla patience, an important virtue in bringing Madre Mezcal to life.
After three years of returning to Oaxaca, developing a recipe and researching what they wanted to bring to market alongside the Garcia Morales family, Madre Mezcal was born. The mezcal is a blend of two agaves. “It’s really become a family affair,” Wigand says. “I hate leaving [Oaxaca]. Eventually, I’m just going to stay.” Each bottle of Madre carries Jose’s name and that of the Garcia Moraleses. A small nod of respect to an age-old tradition and a true family recipe.
69
RAD Retailers
Progress doesn’t happen following someone else’s path. For this edition of Rad Retailers, we look at two unique stores and their inspiring formation stories. The founders of Glasswing and Ladies of Paradise share their journeys to cultivate community and a creative vision for retail.
GLASSWING:
Shaping Culture One Plant at a Time
A
fragrant aroma of floral arrangements, potted plants and a
ers bought house plants. While the clothing and other merchandise
10-foot-long, Gilded Age glass display-turned-terrarium
performed well, the potted plants nearly sold out in a single weekend.
greet you as you step through Glasswing’s front door in
Glasswing had to restock quickly. After this happened several more
Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. It may feel like you’ve entered the
times, Furoyama and Eckley knew plants were now a key element of
local florist, but instead, you’ve walked into one of the city’s finest cloth-
Glasswing’s identity.
ing and homeware boutiques. For two years, the duo continued to host pop-ups on the side while
Glasswing is an eclectic wonder pioneering a new path in retail, thanks
working steady jobs. Following each event, they’d chat through what
to its founders, Alisa Furoyama and Forest Eckley. As the two driven
worked and didn’t, refining their model as they went. That experimenta-
visionaries realize a bold dream, they’re making space for Seattle’s
tion led to the warm, cozy, industrial space Glasswing now calls home.
creative community.
The shop offers a heavy-hitting list of brands for men and women, from Japan’s cultish Kapital, to the timeless minimalism of Norse Projects,
Glasswing didn’t happen overnight. Furoyama and Eckley both have
to the indy funk of YMC. Their women’s selection offers easy-to-wear
corporate backgrounds. Furoyama worked for an established interna-
pieces from Ilana Kohn to the storied details of Samuji.
tional retailer; Eckley worked in the energy industry. While their experiGlasswing’s distinct approach to merchandising brimming with house
more meaningful path in life, one they couldn’t achieve without shifting
plants, wooden sculptures, aromatic homewares, paper products and,
the direction of their careers.
of course, their signature taxidermy bear creates a welcoming atmosphere for anyone looking to enjoy a sense of exploration in their shop-
With change in mind, Furoyama and Eckley met, devised a plan and
ping experience. Glasswing also offers a variety of workshops, from
started hosting pop-ups to experiment with their ideas.
house plant care to seasonal wreath making, where people can share knowledge, expertise and create together.
Some elements of Glasswing are intentional; others came through intuition. At an early event, the team repositioned pallets of coffee beans
Furoyama and Eckley are building a unique business based in com-
around a roaster’s warehouse to form makeshift rooms to merchan-
munity, creativity and a feeling of home. Who doesn’t love a space
dise their products in an intimate setting. To fill the space, the found-
full of plants?
I MAG E BY B RAN D ON H E R R E LL
Words by Rob Darmour
ences were largely positive, Furoyama and Eckley were searching for a
70
Breaking Taboo
W
e’re in the midst of a new era, one in which social
As Daniels and Case took on more creative work with brands and
media presentation has become real life experi-
publications, they needed a permanent photo studio. The large
ence. The internet offers cheap real estate where
windows and ground floor of a studio space on Division Street
good, and bad, ideas can catch fire quickly. Exploration and ex-
inspired them to think beyond their current offerings, and in August
perience in today’s age are only limited by one’s imagination. The
2018, Ladies of Paradise opened the doors on its first store.
creative duo behind Ladies of Paradise in Portland, Oregon, has broken through that barrier and brought a digital experience to life.
The shop, in many ways, is a physical embodiment of the brand’s social media curation—a brilliant clash of emerald velvet, tropical
Jade Daniels and Harlee Case’s curated take on cannabis culture
wallpaper, metallic gold fixtures, leopard print pillows and disco
is a breath of fresh air in a world embracing the newly-legalized
balls. Ladies of Paradise hosts regular events and photoshoots,
substance. Daniels and Case’s style is broadening perspectives
where the creative team leaves the store open to the public.
and demystifying taboos. In creating a sense of cool alongside an open, inviting community, Ladies of Paradise is welcoming curious
Racks of female-owned apparel brands dazzle in an array of colors
women to join the party and learn about cannabis products.
and prints. Pipes take many forms—none of them what you’d expect. A yellow glass orb reflecting light with the delicacy of shifting
What Daniels and Case have built today all started on Instagram.
water. A geometric pink tube captures the eye with the gesture of
Before Ladies of Paradise was focused on cannabis, Daniels was
an 80s pop squiggle. A coiled snake sits like one of grandma’s
selling boho jewelry and vintage clothing on Etsy under the same
knick-knacks on a green tile fixture. It isn’t until further inspection
name. Daniels and Case teamed up to highlight women in the can-
that you realize their function. These are objects meant to be left on
nabis industry via a highly-styled photoshoot. From that, a new idea
the coffee table, not swept into a drawer when guests come over.
for continued collaboration was born: a lifestyle content brand that blended their skills and interests.
That’s exactly what Ladies of Paradise has executed perfectly. They hide nothing; there’s nothing to be ashamed of. Daniels and
Between Daniels’ styling and Case’s photography, the duo are at
Case have created an open culture that invites exploration and ex-
the center of a new wave of cannabis art direction. Their perfect-
pression around something that was once taboo. They’re breaking
ly-clashing colors, empowered messaging and rocker sense of fun
down the stigma by normalizing it through a fashionable lens. For
make weed look hip, not hippie. Ladies of Paradise’s Instagram,
Ladies of Paradise, progress is stepping out of one’s comfort zone
@ladiesofparadise, is a kaleidoscope of bright colors, quirky GIFs
to follow your own, true path.
and trippy imagery that make cannabis fashionable.
71
RAD Retailers
I MAG E BY B LAK E G I LLI E S
LADIES OF PARADISE:
G
How A Degenerative Eye Condition Shifted My Perspective
IS
IS BE
EVI I L N
S
I N G EE Words + Images by Laura Lawson Visconti
72
M
y husband and I were recently at dinner with a
virtually with other visually impaired individuals. I became one of
couple we hadn’t seen in nearly 10 years. We
Instagram’s first “Suggested Users” and, subsequently, an influ-
played catch up roulette. You know, the usual
encer before it was even a thing. Fast-forward eight years, and
questions. Do you plan to have another kid?
it turns out noticing and appreciating weeds in cracks—focusing
What do you do for a living now? How was year one of marriage
on what I can see and do rather than what I can’t—radically trans-
compared to year five?
formed my life.
As I struggled to summarize the last decade of my life—not an
Fortunately, technological advancements in the field of retinal
easy task, as I sometimes
research are progressing
have a hard time recall-
by leaps and bounds.
ing what happened last
My ophthalmologist, Dr.
week—I casually said, “I’m
Jacque Duncan at the
actually visually impaired
University of California,
now. Well, I always have
San
been, just didn’t know it.
closely with the Founda-
But I’m losing my vision.
tion Fighting Blindness
Going blind. Pass the
on research studies and
butter, please.”
clinical trials. While even-
Francisco,
works
tual blindness seemed I have a rare degenerative
inevitable at the time of
eye condition called reti-
my diagnosis, it is now
nitis pigmentosa. There is
unlikely I will surrender
currently no known treat-
my
ment or cure, and it gets
prosthetic retina recently
worse over time. I see in
became FDA-approved,
tunnel vision, and each
and stem cell research
year, I see a little less.
and genetic treatments
vision
entirely.
A
show promise. There is a The retina is the outer-
lot of hope.
most layer of the eye. It’s responsible for con-
I’ve been in a perpetual
verting light into electri-
in-between stage since
cal impulses that travel
the day an optometrist
along the optic nerve to
told me I had the worst
the brain, translating into
peripheral vision of any-
what we call sight. My
one she’d encountered
retinas are slowly dying.
in a routine eye exam.
They’re programmed by
Not blind, but not nor-
a mutation in my DNA
mal vision either. Not
to disintegrate from the outside in. In 2010, after months of testing, I was diagnosed and immediately made the
decision
to
stop
Making it a point to appreciate everything I’m able to see while I can still see it has radically impacted my approach to life itself.
able to drive, but able to see well enough to bike, backpack,
snowboard,
summit mountains, travel the world, skydive and “influence” people to live more adventurously.
driving. 2010 was also the year Instagram made its debut. Without my driver’s license,
I could write a book—well, actually, I did—about all the things
my world came to a screeching halt. I walked everywhere and
this diagnosis has taught me, but the biggest thing undoubt-
noticed new details on my commute: weeds shooting out of
edly is gratitude. I am so grateful to live in a time where a scary
cracks in the sidewalk, wiggly worms, dancing light. I became
eye condition isn’t a ticket to darkness, where people with
observant, and I became a better artist for it, capturing my ob-
disabilities like mine are able to thrive and even see stronger
servations with my iPhone and sharing them on Instagram.
representation in the media. Making it a point to appreciate everything I’m able to see while I can still see it has radically
The social media platform became my community and outlet—a
impacted my approach to life itself. It’s not the story I would
safe place to share my stories and photos and even to connect
have written, but I’ll be damned if it slows me down.
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I MAG E BY THOMAS VAN VE E N / D O CU M E NTARY AS SO CIATE S
Hiking My Feelings
Connecting the Dots Between Mind + Body in the Outdoors by Sydney Williams
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I
’ve completely transformed throughout the last year, and
my career aligned with my values, I quit a stressful agency job
I have the trail to thank for my progress. Following two
in February to join a friend’s startup. I lost another 10 pounds.
thru-hikes of the Trans-Catalina Trail on Santa Catalina Island in Southern California, I connected the dots be-
Working at the startup, I was at risk of reversing all the prog-
tween what was happening in my body and mind. Nature has
ress I’d made in managing my disease. I was working 16-
a way of making that happen.
20-hour days to get a big order out, having near-daily panic attacks and my blood sugar readings were increasing to levels
My first backpacking trip in 2016 was a wakeup call. In an
I hadn’t seen since I was first diagnosed. I quit the startup and
REI dressing room, as I squeezed into the biggest sizes they
lost another 10 pounds.
offered—16 and XL, at the time—I didn’t recognize the girl in the mirror. I was the biggest I’d ever been. It felt like just yesterday
With that, everything seemingly clicked. As I was addressing
I’d been in the best shape of my life on the women’s rowing
my mental health, my physical health followed. On a training
team at the University of Kansas. Who was this woman?
hike, I realized I’d replaced eating and drinking my feelings with hiking my feelings. Never one to be satisfied with just one
Instead of shaming myself, I asked, “Girl, how did we get
answer, I had to get to the root of my coping mechanisms.
here?” I didn’t realize a trail held—or even could hold—the answers for me. But it did. Following that dressing room moment,
Two weeks after quitting my job at the startup, I embarked on
on my first Trans-Catalina Trail journey, I learned two essential
my second thru-hike of the Trans-Catalina Trail. Throughout
lessons: I can do hard things, and I love my body.
that trip, I felt on top of the world. On the trail, my blood sugar
As I was addressing my mental health, my physical health followed. Months later, in September 2017, I was diagnosed with type 2
readings were the best they’d been since my diagnosis. As we
diabetes. I knew nothing of the disease, only the stigma. Look-
descended to the last campground of the hike, I realized the
ing back, I know diabetes is the best thing that ever happened
last time I’d felt that good physically, mentally, emotionally and
to me. I chose love for myself over the fear that stigma carries.
spiritually was before I’d survived a sexual assault 12 years
I learned the four variables that affect my blood sugar—food,
prior.
exercise, medication and stress—and how to manage them. I started walking 30 to 45 minutes every morning. I took my pills
After that second thru-hike, it was clear to me my diabetes
as prescribed. I learned how to nourish myself all over again.
was a physical manifestation of my unresolved trauma. The second I healed the mental wound, my physical health im-
I saw physical results almost immediately, but my blood sugar
proved—every single time.
was still elevated. I couldn’t wrap my head around the weight that was melting off. After several dramatic chunks of weight
Since that revelation, my life has been a whirlwind of positiv-
loss, I started connecting the dots.
ity, healing, connecting more dots and recreating myself. I’m now defining and designing my life by my standards.
I lost the first 15 pounds by doing what the doctor ordered. Over Thanksgiving, my family and I healed a bunch of emotion-
I’m a work in progress. I manage my diabetes through diet
al wounds, and I lost 15 pounds between Thanksgiving and my
and exercise, and I’m entirely off medications. I’m hiking my
sister’s wedding on New Year’s Eve.
feelings. I’m reclaiming my body. I managed to recreate myself outside, and that’s what this next chapter of my life is all
I realized my near-constant rumination was mainly due to
about: sharing my story, bringing folks to the great outdoors
childhood interactions with my sister. I lost another 10 pounds
in a judgment-free zone and helping people find power in
between her wedding and February 2018. In an attempt to get
their stories on the trail.
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Anxiety in a Strange Place by Colin Beresford
M
y racing heart wakes me violently. My heavy breathing
messages—that beg for my attention. I’m not alone: 62 percent of
and the perspiration that hugs my body contrast the
college undergraduates reported overwhelming anxiety, according
eerie, beautiful call of the loons and the warmth of the
to one study. Other studies have discovered positive correlations
sun. I struggle to get my bearings. An anxiety attack is the last thing
between technology use and anxiety.
I anticipated happening a few days into an eight-day backpacking trip. The anxiety translates to worry. Is everyone in my group okay?
Upon my diagnosis, I devised a plan and worked to tackle my
Do I hear a bear outside the tent? Is a storm rolling in? The out-
anxiety one step at a time. I turned my notifications off. I started
doors is the one space my anxiety had yet to permeate.
utilizing “Do Not Disturb” and left my phone at home whenever possible. With time, I saw that finding the balance I sought boils
I roll over in my sleeping bag. A blue hue of morning light sifts
down to deliberate action as much as it does adopting a certain
through the tent and punctuates my blurry vision. I work to catch
mindset. I must mentally and physically choose to be okay with
and steady my breath, but the pure air I crave keeps slipping
letting notifications go unattended to for some time.
through my fingers. I slide out of my sleeping bag and step out of the tent, hoping the scent of the pines mixed with the cool breeze
At first, these steps induced a constant worry I was unable to
sliding off the lake will settle my nerves.
shake. But with time, I began to feel relief. I began to see there are generally no consequences to letting notifications go unanswered.
Standing in the morning air, I try the meditative breathing my
My grip on constant connectedness loosened, little by little.
therapist introduced me to a couple weeks prior. I work to visualize myself in a space where I always feel free from my anxiety, a “happy
Being outside typically offers me respite I haven’t found elsewhere,
place.” I soon recognize that place is where I am now.
a space to learn about myself. Being immersed in nature is meditative, yielding a calmness that often overflows into my day-to-day
The meditative breathing doesn’t work. Nothing I do curbs this
life. In the past, weeklong backpacking trips translated into weeks
cortisol-fueled emotion. My anxiety makes camp alongside me.
void of any anxiety. With each trip, that liberation stuck longer and
The last hiking partner I wanted on this trip shows up ready to go,
longer. My progress became more pronounced.
reluctant to leave. We hike day in and day out together. For the rest of the week, while it seems as though any sense of calm is surely
But progress isn’t linear. This I know.
just beyond the next curve of the trail and waiting patiently at the next camp, the internal peace I crave is always just out of reach.
This morning at camp, among the loons and the lake and in the midst of my eight-day backpacking trip, I work to catch my breath
Living with a mental illness has been a relentless battle, a constant
and settle my anxiety. As I do, I find myself somewhere in the
push for improvement. Progress has manifested itself internally, as
middle. I’ve let go of a constantly connected lifestyle, but I still have
I fight to live in chorus with anxiety and depression—later diagnosed
room to progress.
as bipolar disorder—that I first came to know almost a decade ago in high school.
Change doesn’t come overnight. My journey with anxiety is evolving. Out in the wilderness, knowing that I can be fully present—sans
A facet of my anxiety stems from a thirst for constant connec-
phone, computer and notifications—is a start. It is a sign that I am
tion. I fear not being connected. I fear not being able to see and
moving in the right direction.
respond to the myriad of notifications—social media, emails, text
76
Words by Sonya Pevzner Illustration by Justine Yueng Merriam-Webster defines mental health as “the general condition of one’s mental and emotional state.” Mental health is complex and multifaceted. While there are certainly some similarities, everyone’s experience with mental health—as is the case with the outdoors—is different. For those looking to explore the intersection of mental health and the outdoors, we’ve compiled a starter list of resources you can reference and utilize. PODCASTS Madness Radio Healing Justice
APPS Native Land Calm Urban Mind s leep Sound Rain Rain S ep Dream le e: Relax S Naturespac
M IN STAG RA tal Health en QTPoC M lhealth ta @qtpocmen r All Seasons fo g Counselin g4allseasons @counselin Somatics Generative somatics @generative. wn n @brenebro Brené Brow re tu na @queer Pinar & So
The Three-Day Effect
WEEKEND WORKSHOP
How to Survive the End of the World
The Ecology of Power & Privilege
She Explores: Episode 23
A nature-based weekend workshop led by Darcy Ottey darcyottey.com
BOOKS Oppression and the Body:
NATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS
Roots, Resistance, and Resolutions
Although they are not specifically designed
by Christine Caldwell and
to help with mental health, Outward Bound
Lucia Bennett Leighton
and NOLS have trauma-informed teaching
Ecological and Social Healing:
practices, practice nonviolent communication
Multicultural Women’s Voices
and generally help people learn to be more
by Jeanine M. Canty
mindful & self-aware—all good things to
Decolonizing Trauma Work:
improve mental health.
Indigenous Stories and Strategies by Renee Linklater The Nature Fix: Why Nature Makes Us Happier, Healthier, and More Creative
K FACE BOO th Outdoors al e H l ta n Me utdoors ntalhealtho groups/me
WEBSITES The Icarus Project theicarusproject.net Adventure Therapy Collective adventuretherapycollective.org International Adventure Therapy internationaladventuretherapy.org Association of Nature & Forest Therapy natureandforesttherapy.org
WEBSITES FOR YOUTH AND YOUNG ADULTS Children & Nature Network
by Florence Williams Sixty Meters to Anywhere by Brendan Leonard
“What works for one perso n may not w ok. Just bec ork for anothe ause someo r person, an ne is advoca doesn’t mea d that’s tin g for a differ n they’re inva en t way of doing lidating your things ways of cop —Stacy Bare, ing and heal co-founder of ing.” the Great O utdoors Lab “With new ev idence emer ging, I think among clinic there’s finally ians that natu growing reco re can provid People are se gnition e a legitimat eking a safe ely healing sp refuge from tion and mod ace. urban stress ern lonelines es, technolo s, and wild p g y addiclaces can be —Florence W a powerful an illiams, author tid ote.” of The Natur e Fix “To get a dee per experienc e with menta course on m l health in th indfulness, w e outdoors, hether online activities you take a or from a book, already do in and apply it the outdoors or hiking.” to , whether th at’s climbing , birding —Aleya Jean , adventure th erapist
childrenandnature.org National Association of Therapeutic Schools & Programs natsap.org Outdoor Behavioral Healthcare Council obhcouncil.com
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Br
amble
B
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I MAG E BY LI SA D OUG H E RT Y
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To w
RAN +
ramble believes in going places. They believe the sand in our
plastic bottles, and in collaboration with 1% for the Planet, a portion
pockets is worth more than gold. They believe if we know a
of every purchase goes to conservation groups working to protect the
place we’ll be more inclined to protect it. So Bramble designs
region that inspired the design.
products to connect people with places. The beauty of the towel? It’s a blank canvas. So Bramble teamed up The towel, a “forgotten essential,” was long in need of a refresh. So
with RANGE to create a fresh design that brings life to our vision of
Bramble designed camp, travel and yoga towels that embody the spirit
outdoor culture. Inspired by the sacred geometry of Vesica Pisces, this
of a place—from the harsh desert of the American southwest to Cali-
symbol is a tribute to the immense power and energy we feel when we
fornia’s craggy coast. Their latest line is made of 100 percent recycled
connect with others outside.
RANG E + Bramble Camp Towels are available on brambleoutdoor.com and thisisrange.com.
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