Statement Spring 2017

STATEMENT MERCYHURST UNIVERSITY SPRING 2017

LIFE AS A MALE FASHION MAJOR F A S H I O N AND POLITICS

DIVERSITY

IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY

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EDITORS’ NOTES LET’S TALK ABOUT DIVERSITY

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am proud to be a part of a university that embraces diversity and welcomes it into its community. In the fashion department alone we are represented by numerous different ethnicities, sexualities, races and genders. This truly diverse group is representative of the acceptance and progressive change in the fashion industry. Social movements toward a more inclusive industry begin with us. We are the ones who will lead change and create a fashion industry that includes everybody. This issue of Statement captures the beauty in being different and the importance of shining light on diversity.

-OLIVIA WAGNER EDITOR

this time when our country is experiencing a transition in political power, it has been empowering to see many diverse people across the nation come together in unison to protect what they believe in. From the Women’s March on Washington, to the airport protests, to the Pro-Life March it has been important for every citizen to make a Statement about what is important to him or her. That being said, this issue was created to celebrate every race, every gender, every ethnicity, and every body.

-RACHEL LYNCH CO-EDITOR

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any of our readers may or may not know the secret to Statement’s continuous growth and success. Of course new ideas, contributors and trends are all apart of what makes Statement a truly great publication. But behind the scenes is someone who spends much of her free time ensuring Statement is a quality magazine representative of our talented department.

Tremendous gratitude should be given to Jen Craven who serves as the advisor for Statement. She deals with countless emails, spur of the moment crises and multiple drafts before the final copy goes to print.

Thank you so much Jen for continuing to be the backbone of Statement. We appreciate all you do.

-OLIVIA AND RACHEL 2

YES, I AM A FASHION MAJOR AND I AM A GUY

experience of being a fashion major is very interesting and unique. Considering that Mercyhurst MY personal is a small liberal arts university, it does not come as a surprise that there are undeniably more female stu-

dents than there are male students within the fashion merchandising department. That being said, there are a multitude of stigmas and preconceived misconceptions that some individuals assume or associate with being a male fashion major. A common misconception sometimes partnered with fashion merchandising as a major, that is not exclusive to only male students, is that it is “easy.” This could not be the further from the truth. The fashion department is very much so demanding of its students and requires them to devote copious amounts of time and attention to all course material. The major offers its students an extensive curriculum that is comprehensive of the fashion industry. The courses that comprise a fashion merchandising degree are seemingly distinct. The level of rigor that the fashion professors dictate throughout their classes is truly indicative of the various facets that encompass the vast industry. Fashion merchandising pertains to the business oriented aspects of the fashion industry as opposed to the design component. The business aspect of the fashion industry requires one to have knowledge of things such as fiber contents, textiles, manufacturing, buying, selling, marketing, trend analysis, visual merchandising, branding, international trade laws and tax regulations, just to name a few and none of which are particularly “easy.”

Despite being merchandisimg majors and not design, we undoubtedly are intrigued with the aesthetics of clothing and genuinely enjoy looking nice. As a male fashion merchandising major it is typical to sometimes be automatically assumed for being shallow and effeminate. This too, is yet another fallacious misconception. I personally feel as though some individuals mistake the desire of wanting to look presentable and embrace personal style to be limited to females. I am not certain as to why this is even an association that some people have. It is almost as if they feel it diminishes a man’s masculinity or something. Regardless, it is ludicrous to say the least. Just remember that the art of looking good is equally as handsome as it is beautiful. Aside from the utilitarian purposes clothing provides, it is one the greatest opportunities to express one’s sense of self.

Like it or not, we all have the pleasure of partaking in wearing it every day, unless of course you are a nudist.

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mean you need to have a lot of money or even spend a lot of money for that matter. All that matters is that you put in some sense of effort and Since clothing is not optional nine- are proud of what you are wearing. major. Not too long ago, I found ty-nine percent of the time, wearing myself paranoid about being a fashit can quickly become mundane and Since there are a variety of career ion merchandising major, and one cyclical. In order to avoid experi- paths within the industry. I urge you of the very few males. This absoluteencing those aforementioned prob- to ask any of the fashion merchanly caused me to question my future lems, I implore individuals to tap dising students, what they plan on career path and major. Through into their creativity and evoke some doing with their degree. I am certain some trial and error, I quickly came sense of individuality and subse- that you will always get a unique anto realize that my innate decision to quently exude it through their outfit swer and some that are very specifbe a fashion merchandising major selections. I am an advocate for per- ic. Many of the fashion majors are was the best fit for me, no pun insonal style, being that it is entirely double majors, minors, or even have tended. I am very much interested subjective and free from rules. Aside concentrations. I feel as though havin the legal component of the indusfrom whatever brands, trends or ing the opportunity to create a niche try. I am particularly fond of issues messages you are representing while program specific to yourself is one that pertain to intellectual properwearing a particular outfit, you are of the best things Mercyhurst has to ty and manufacturing regulations. representing something even great- offer its students. Attending MerBecause these are two facets of the er, if not the greatest thing ever. As cyhurst for fashion merchandising fashion industry that peak my interclichÊ as it may sound, that some- has reinvigorated the importance of est most, I am seriously considering thing is you. I know this sounds a lot having the utmost loyalty, respect attending law school after graduatlike judging a book by its cover and and faith in yourself. College is a ing. I would like to practice fashion I would agree that it indeed does. time which can cause doubt regardlaw and work with either of the preHowever, I would like to state that less of one’s major. I experienced viously mentioned sectors. I feel as the author of a book has the ability this doubt myself, especially in my though my decision to be a fashion to dictate the illustration featured on major with a philosophy minor is the cover of the novel just as much as exceedingly preparing me to be sucthey do the title. Just as the title and cessful in my future endeavors. The cover of a book indicate its contents, courses that I take provide me with an outfit indicates some of the conintellectual challenge and wondertents of an individual’s personality. ful opportunities that only contribSomething else I would like to menute in strengthening my knowledge. tion is that dressing in a way that is -ZACHARY ABODALO true to yourself and stylish does not 4

“NO SUCH THING AS MUTE” Following the most recent Presidential Inauguration, human rights have drawn a lot of attention by our country and to our evolving culture and society. For more than two centuries, the term “equality” has not been fulfilled, and even modern day, the fight for equality is still happening.

On January 21, 2017, over 4.8 million participants joined together for the Women’s March on Washington in support of civil rights due to sentiments of oppression expressed by President Trump. These issues have been ongoing, and spoken about, through many different outlets. Liberal arts including music, vocals, art, and especially fashion, have influenced society to open itseyes and finally have an understanding of the true meaning of equality.

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In the midst of the 21st century, women have begun to be heard. This past fall, Maria Grazia Chiuri was named the Creative Director of Christian Dior, the first woman to ever hold the position in its 70 years of existence. She also deserves credit for creating the graphic t-shirt stating “We Should All Be Feminists,” which was worn by models on the runway and the streets, to express a political statement and promote the brand. Aside from Chiuri, Diane Von Furstenberg, Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld, and Coco Chanel, have been inspired to express these basic civil rights throughout the industry.

In 2015, Karl Lagerfeld’s spring line took to the streets after the fashion show, to combine activism and pop culture, influenced by Emma Watson’s Glob-

al UN Campaign, “He for She.” After the hot buzz from this event, the “Free the Nipples” campaign has aimed at gender equality, and through the power of social media, fashion models, the industry itself, and young girls all over the world the campaign has been momentous. Models such as Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne have become crucial believers in these movements, which is helpful because it positively influences their millions of followers. As history has proven, politics have a way of inspiring people to become not only vocal, but to finally be heard. Especially in the world of fashion, there is no such thing as mute.

-BELLA STEPHAN

Fashion as

Political Activism Elle U.S. coined the term “weaponised glamour” this winter as we all followed the struggle that Melania Trump faced: many designers refusing to dress her for the inauguration on the grounds that they disagreed with her husband’s politics. The importance of wearing an American designer for the sake of patriotism also posed a challenge for the first lady as Tom Ford most notably opposed dressing her.

Ralph Lauren wardrobed Hillary Clinton in many of the Presidential debates and ultimately dressed Melania for the inauguration in a beautiful powder blue dress, cropped jacket and gloves.

This whole debacle illustrated just how much of an impact fashion designers have in a society beyond just clothing us. Design and fashion is often linked to the creative arts which promote consciousness of the individual and society.

A sense of responsibility is then ignited by this consciousness and we see political movements in fashion from Dior’s “We Should All be Feminists” campaign to a movement towards eco-friendly and ethical fashion. It’s not just big-time designers that are jumping on the bandwagon either, we see it in fast fashion companies,

who are notorious for exploiting labor and pollution in the creation of their garments, as well. H&M, for example, has a “conscious” line of sustainable fashions which regards the way resources and labor are used. The company also offers a discount if you bring back old H&M clothes to promote recycling as part of its garment collecting initiative. It uses the phrase “looking good should do good too” on its website.

The idea of sustainablity and fair trade fashions would not exist if the industry marginalized the political. If designers can decline the opportunity to dress an important political figure at a global event on the basis of a disagreement, so can their client. Designers must be aware of social and political issues that afflict the public. When the market, for example, raises issues on body positivity, it is wise for designers to be receptive. Many brands have moved away from using traditional ‘90s supermodels due to these rising concerns and have started to be more inclusive of models with different body sizes and ethnicities and normalizing a “healthy” body image.

These mentioned movements grow out of citizens’ political conscious and have been implemented in many sectors of society. The fashion industry has been highly receptive of peoples’ political concerns and has advocated for many of these movements. Art meets life when fashion activism and political commentary meet.

-RACHEL LYNCH

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ANNE DEMAREST JUNIOR

YOSEL NADIK FRESHMAN

ISAIAH THOMAS FRESHMAN

DIVER

KELSEY MADER SENIOR

DAYANA MONCADA SENIOR

HANNAH DEVLIN JUNIOR

RSITY

BEAUTIFUL STORIES THAT

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OTHER BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE WITH

NEED TO BE HEARD AND KNOWN”

“BUT, THERE ARE ALSO

CHANGING THE UN-DIVERSE FASHION INDUSTRY

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iversity has been at the forefront of the fashion industry as of recent. Social movements are calling attention to the overwhelmingly un-diverse industry and pushing for change. Little by little the runways and magazines are embracing the beauty within diversity. Designers like Kanye West and Michael Kors have made strides in bringing diversity to their runways with models of different sizes and colors. Although this is a sign of progress, these designers are unfortunately the outliers in the disproportionately white and thin based industry.

Do not mistake my words, there is nothing wrong with being thin or white (I happen to be one of those things) but why is that the only way to meet the industry’s standard of beauty?

In an industry that is built on the freedom of personal expression, those who are at the top are overwhelmingly the same.

Dayana Moncada, a senior from Honduras, explained the need for diversity across different races and cultures. “I open the magazines and I see the same type of people; don’t get me wrong,

they are absolutely gorgeous people. But, there are also other beautiful people with beautiful stories that need to be heard and known of. Black, Hispanic, Asian cultures and so on, have so much richness in them. We need to hear more about them.”

all sectors of the industry to bring a real change. Yosel Nadik, a freshman from Bhutan, says the industry has a responsibility to “use fashion as a platform to tell others’ stories so people become more educated and tolerant.”

Such responsibility requires the industry to be equipped with edLack of representation contrib- ucated, interesting, diverse peoutes to misconceptions, stereo- ple and there will be momentum. types and self-consciousness by the average consumer of fash- I understand Statement is only a ion. Juniors, Anne Demarest and small, university-run publication, Hannah Devlin, both know the but I like to think that we repreself-consciousness that comes sent the future of the fashion infrom the pressures of not fit- dustry. A future where everyone’s ting into the industry’s standard body is considered “in fashion”. of body type. Both are familiar A future where Vogue’s “Diverwith the all too common frus- sity issue” will feature more than tration of walking out of a re- just shades of white and challenge tailer empty handed because the what they have done for over 125 lack of size selection. Hannah years. We are a part of the conhas even felt discouraged in the versation and propel diversity past to pursue a career in fash- forward to not just be a “trend” ion because her body is one that in the industry but the new norm. doesn’t fit the small minded (and waisted) agenda of the industry.

-OLIVIA WAGNER The problem our industry is facing goes beyond the models hired to walk down the runway or the glossy pages of magazines. From CEOs to sales associates, from designers to advertising teams; diversity needs to happen across

Special thanks to Kelsey Mader for assisting with photography.

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FOUR WAYS TO LOVE THE REAL YOU My whole life, I have struggled to accept the real version of myself. From the moment I began preschool until about the fifth grade, I was the tallest person in my class. I always felt that since I was such a “large” person that I was not as feminine as the rest of my girlfriends. This always made me feel like I stood out, and not in a good way. I really used to detest the way I looked.

In photos I was always the Green Giant, standing amidst my friends who were “normal” sized. I already knew my position every time there was a group photo: to the back. After experiencing these feelings for so long, I decided to hit them head on and overcome them. Insecurities are something that everyone deals with. The things that we take for granted other people are praying for.

The reality is that we need to accept ourselves. Here are a few tips on how you can embrace the inner beauty that you possess.

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TAKE A STEP BACK AND BE GRATEFUL FOR WHAT YOU DO HAVE. Make a list. Find ten things about yourself that only you have, and that you do love. Focusing more on the positive attributes that you have will help you focus on loving yourself more. Your mindset can change your outlook.

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-ANNE DEMAREST

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EXERCISE.

Whether it be taking a dog for a walk or doing pilates in your apartment, getting up and moving around not only boosts your mood but also contributes to your health. By being aware of our physical and mental health you can control more of the way that you feel about yourself.

Not motivated enough?

Grab a friend and workout together. You can keep each other accountable for when you do not feel like doing anything.

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FIND A HOBBY YOU LOVE AND DO IT.

When you are passionate about something and it really helps you feel good about yourself, your outlook on life will improve. Feeling as though you have a purpose will drive you to feel empowered and confident.

LOOK FOR INSPIRATION.

My inspiration for loving myself more has come from meeting a famous model, Iskra Lawrence.

I met her at a meet and greet in Pittsburgh, where she gave a talk on how to accept the real you and to “share your spark.” Having a similar body type to mine, I was able to really relate to the things she said. Inspiration does not necessarily have to come from a famous individual, as these role models also exist in our everyday lives.

TheElieBirth of Light Saab’s Grandiose masterpiece

stands still. Beauty and strength emerges in T ime a long elegant embroidered gown showered with

crystals. Faten Hamama fades into the scene exhibiting romance and enchantment. “The Lady of the Arabic screen” sparkles as she creates an unforgettable moment of inspiration in the classic 1957 film, La Anam (“I Don’t Sleep”).

Very similarly a model emerges wearing a long elegant gown embroidered with lace and added silver crystalized palm trees to create ‘The Birth of Light’ Elle Saab saw in watching La Anam. Elie Saab’s Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017 collection captures the beauty in the flourishing culture of the mid-century Egypt. The glittering oriental patterns and the gorgeous Arabic calligraphy creates a modern interpretation of the mid-century Egyptian time that continues to inspire today’s generation.

Elie Saab has always been known for his enchantment and his ever so romantic scenes of beads, crystals, and sequins that waltz down the runway. His designs have continuously captured the beauty and grace he finds in his inspiration. This time around, the Egyptian icons and the Arabic fashion create such a charm and allure as we find shades of gold and turquoise

embroidered with silver palm trees. His emphasis on transparency and softness create an airy feel to these flowing dresses to seem as if they were standing on the shore of the great Nile river.

The seductive, romantic nature of some of the most iconic Egyptian stars like Abdel Halim Hafez, Nour el Hoda, and Cleopatra were captured in Elle Saab’s most defining runway show yet. Exhibiting the beauty and elegance found in the inspiring Arabic culture, the middle eastern designer has proven that beauty can be shown in anything.

This inspiring collection is just another example of the diversity found within the fashion industry. From African culture to Indian, and now the Egyptian and Arabic debut, Elie Saab’s fashion incorporates the world of color and beauty. Rarefied, elegant, and discreet is what flourishes from his Egyptian and Arabic inspired line as he internationally stunned the world yet again.

Elie Saab is without a doubt an elegant designer capturing what others don’t see in his ‘The Birth of Light’ Haute Couture 2017 collection. We can only wonder what next graceful creation he will design next.

-LAURA SCHMIEDELER

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ANN OPPORTUNITY OF A LIFETIME

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never was a firm believer in the saying, “Everything happens for a reason,” until I started my journey with ANN Inc. Since sophomore year, I had one goal in mind: to get an internship at Ann Taylor my spring semester at FIT, but I’ll be completely honest—something set me off course.

Before starting my fall semester at FIT, I had the once in a lifetime privilege to interview for an internship with Instyle.

As many may know, writing and fashion are two core passions of mine. When the stars aligned, all goals shifted focus on this one chance at working for a fashion magazine.

After not hearing back weeks after my interview, I knew it was time to move on. I didn’t recover very quickly and got pretty down on myself. Rejection is hard.

Fast forward past me pining over what could have been to November when it came time to start my next chapter. I went in with my mind set back to my original goal. I applied to Ann Taylor and put all my efforts into networking,

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following up with contacts and sending written thank you notes to absolutely everyone who laid a hand on my resume.

Loft, Ann Taylor Factory and Loft Outlet Stores. I have met so many professionals already and love learning from them.

I was on my way to my previous fall internship’s holiday party when I got the email. I landed the internship with the accessories team!

A typical day consists of me sending vendor reports out and costing production units or samples. My favorite part of the job so far is when we get new samples in from vendors. Being the first one to work with product that won’t be in stores for months is so exhilarating.

That night, I celebrated two things: that hard work does pay off and that everything happens for a reason.

My first day was fun-filled with a welcome brunch accompanied by 23 other interns and some lovely succulents for each of us to adorn our new desks. The day ended with a meeting request awaiting for me at my desk titled “Katy’s Wine and Cheese Welcome Party.”

Since my first day, I have learned so much about how to communicate with overseas vendors, how things get pushed through production and most importantly how the product development process works in real life.

I often attend meetings with my sourcing team, the merchandising team and product development for Ann Taylor,

So many fun things are in my horizon at ANN. Next week, I’ll get to finally see the color floor, visit showroom offices in NYC and go on store visits to test out quality of product with my team. In addition to this, I’ll get to make my very own scarf. This will be my big project to fully create a product from design to production management to packaging development. Basically, once this project begins, I’ll be a kid in a candy store.

It’s always a good time here, and I am oh so happy that everything happened for a reason.

-KATY HUFF

P A NTONE’S COLOR O F T H E YEAR I think we can collectively agree 2016 was a rough year for everyone. Whether it was the ongoing political battle, celebrity deaths or personal troubles, 2016 made us grow for the better even though it was quite possibly the worst.

PANTONE 15-0343 Greenery

Luckily the New Year brings a fresh start and new beginings. And of course, to help celebrate the revival of the new year, Pantone has released its Color of the Year. Say hello to Greenery.

Greenery represents the rebirth and renewal we all so desperately need. The vibrant yet calming green tone serves as a reminder for all of us to take a moment and breathe.

Greenery evokes a mood of warmer Spring days and lightened feelings.

Incorporating this color into your Spring wardrobe will for sure brighten your spirit.

-OLIVIA WAGNER

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NEW YORK FA

STREET

BACK TO BASICS Graphic tees + raw hem jeans was an outfit formula that was seen time and time again in the NYFW streetwear scene. Paired with a pair of cool kicks, these outfits were a sure hit.

FREN

The idea of wardrobe basics and by the tres chic French woman w and inspiration. Many women sp either tied around their nec

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ASHION WEEK

T STYLE

STATEMENT EARRINGS Statement necklaces were the ultimate trendy jewelry piece for many years in a row but statement earrings have been trending a lot more recently.

NCH DRESSING

d minimalism is inspired who is a timeless style icon ported dainty silk scarves cks or on their bags.

HIGH VOLUME Moving away from the Kardashian-era of form fitting clothing, many women took to the streets of New York this spring in palazzo pants, oversized coats and voluminous sleeves.

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FASHION JOBS

“What kind of jobs do your graduates have?” This is a question that my fellow faculty and I get every time we meet with a prospective student. We get it… “fashion” is a pretty broad term and to 18-year-olds (and their parents) it can be a bit unclear as to what the options are post-graduation.

The good news is that we have an answer to this question.

Because the fashion industry is so diverse, students with a fashion merchandising degree have a plethora of option for career paths. From the more familiar, to the less common, here’s a look at some of the types of jobs in which our grads are working.

-JEN CRAVEN

YOU NEVER KNEW EXISTED

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BUYING

Students often think they know what buyers do, but in reality the role is much deeper than simply picking out pretty clothes. Yes, the buyer is responsible for deciding what product offerings a retailer or brand will carry in their stores.

However, this position is very quantitative, requiring good math skills and attention to detail.

VISUAL MERCHANDISING

Perhaps a more creative avenue, visual merchandisers are the people who create the look and feel of a store.

They have many hands-on roles, such as to create planograms, telling employees how products should be displayed; create eye-catching signage; and design window displays.

SHOWROOM SALES

When the buying team visits a designer or brand’s showroom, it is the sales representative who is responsible to show the collection to the buyers.

Good communication skills are a “must” for this position.

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Want to decide what the next hot shirt will be? Or the must-have dress for the season? Then maybe you will work in product development, creating styles of garments and accessories for retail brands. Today, most of this process is done digitally using software such 17 as the Adobe Suite.

PLANNING/ ALLOCATIONS

Planners and Allocators are “sister” positions to the buyer. Once the buyer decides what will be in the store, the planners dictate how much, and the allocators indicate where. These jobs also work a great deal with numbers, to make sure that the perfect type and quantity of products are being sold in the perfect location.

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

If you’re a highly organized person who is able to manage others underneath you, then this job might be right for you. The account executive is in charge of a particular line or division of a company. Among other things, they work in conjunction with the buyer to indicate the available resources at the buyers’ disposal.

STYLING

Students gravitate toward this career path because of the fun and glamour associated with it. Stylists can work for individuals or be employed by companies. They sometimes work on photoshoots for editorial, or even get to dress actors and actresses for television.

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PUBLIC RELATIONS

If you’re good at communicating – both in writing and orally – then maybe public relations is the path for you. Keeping a brand “in the know,” and always in a positive light is paramount for this role. Writing press releases and attending functions are some duties associated with this career.

MY DECISION TO MAKE HURST MY HOME

Katie (left) with 2012 alum Megan Stepnoski.

I had no idea what I wanted to do with my life. I always had a love for fashion ever since I was a kid, but I was not sure I was ready to make it my career.

I put my real interests on the back burner and just settled on becoming a business major. I ended up at a college I did not like in a major that I had barely any interest in. I knew I needed to make a change. I wanted to transfer and it had come down to two different colleges, but Mercyhurst was the one where I felt most comfortable and at home. I went back and forth with a million different majors trying to figure out which would be a good fit for me. My interest in fashion was

still in the back of my mind, just waiting for me to realize that it was more than just a hobby. Through my high school history teacher, I was put into contact with Megan Stepnoski, who is a successful alum of the fashion merchandising program. Talking to her really sealed the deal for me when it came to choosing fashion merchandising as my major. She told me about classes, the teachers, and the school as a whole.

To this day, I am happy with my decision to come to Mercyhurst because it is such a great environment with polite people who are very considerate. The fashion program is so amazing because it has the best professors and so many opportunities! I am lucky to be able to study what I love at a school that I can call my second home.

-KATIE SUMMERS

ALUMNI SPOTLIGHT: MEGAN STEPNOSKI Megan Stepnoski, 2012 alumni, has built a successful career at rue21 and was kind enough to sit down with Statement to share what her post-college life is all about.

W H AT D O E S Y O U R J O B E N TA I L ?

My job role as an Associate Buyer is different every day.

One day I can be negotiating orders with vendors, the next I may be in strategy meetings with my cross functional teams, or styling out with my juniors counterparts to make sure we have a cohesive floorset. The days I’m in NY or LA market I’m in appointments with vendors in their showroom choosing the newest styles for our chain.

HOW DID MERCYHURST P R E PA R E Y O U F O R T H E INDUSTRY? I think the education I received at Mercyhurst was very well-rounded. The curriculum touches on all aspects of the industry to familiarize you to the environment you’ll be working in one day.

W H AT A D V I C E W O U L D YOU GIVE CURRENT STUDENTS? The best advice I can offer is to get as much industry experience as possible while you’re in school. This will help you to decide what you do or don’t like and help streamline your career path.

I would also suggest to find a role model who can help mentor you. If there isn’t anyone you aspire to be within your company, maybe it’s not the right fit for you.

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STATEMENT SPRING 2017 MERCYHURST UNIVERSITY FASHION MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT