Trends and Forecasting Reflective Journal

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TRENDS AND FORECASTING

DESN 2365

JENNIFER LEIGH SHIPLEY

TRENDS REFLECTIVE JOURNAL

LANRUOJ EVITCELFER GNITSACEROF DNA SDNERT

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TRENDS AND FORECASTING

TABLE OF

Contents 03

WEEK ONE

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WEEK TWO

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WEEK THREE

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WEEK FOUR

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WEEK FIVE

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WEEK SIX

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WEEK SEVEN

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WEEK EIGHT

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WEEK NINE

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WEEK TEN/ELEVEN BIBLIOGRAPHY

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REFERENCES

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IMAGES

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WEEK ONE 29th September 2016

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"trends can be an intellectual, emotional and even spiritual process "

The first week commenced with a module introduction and exploration in trend forecasting and its importance and use in the fashion industry. The lecture began defining a trend, where I discovered that trends can be an intellectual, emotional and even a spiritual process. “A trend can be defined as consequences that impact on the culture, society or the business sector through which it moves” (Raymond, 2014). Through this definition, I was able to see that all trends have external factors that influence a bigger movement and that the process can be rather organic. Trends are more complicated than I initially thought, which made me feel excited and yet slightly anxious about this module as I knew it would be challenging. Trend forecasting is fundamental and an essential part of the fashion industry and is used to detect shifts and patterns in mindsets and lifestyle against the current normality in the way we communicate, trade and live our day to day lives. The lecture influenced me to go away and participate in additional reading, remembering an old book, by Martin Raymond, ‘The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook’. Raymond had discovered that trends could also be identified as a ‘meme’’, which is a term used to depict a contagious or an enthralling concept that spreads through a culture like a virus. A ‘meme’ destroys dominant trends and defeats all the competition (Raymond, 2014). Memes can pass from brain to brain which is known as imitation, which involves a person imitating another person behaviour because of the gain in doing so. I began to relate the trend process as an infection; that quickly spreads from person to person.

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GENDER NEUTRAL

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"Increasing fluidity between genders" Additional work was set after the lecture, to collect the mood of the current time, using journals, magazines, newspapers, books, art and culture as sources. iD magazine released No.344 The female gaze issue pre-fall 2016, which explored ideas of feminism, the fluid boundaries of gender and the excitement of being a woman in 2016. The issue examines a new wave of feminism and social media as a current vehicle for change and tool for female liberation.

There is current and clear trend in the increase of gender neutral advertising and how traditional roles are being confronted. The Agenda trend will change the way we consume as gender advertising will become irrelevant. Another trend I identified through this magazine was female power. Politics have clearly impacted the feminism trend as we see compelling political figures, such as Theresa May and Hilary Clinton educated and demonstrate to women that anything is possible to achieve (Economist, 2009).

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WEEK TWO FIG.6.

NEW WAVE OF FEMINISTS The second week commenced by purchasing a copy of the ID Feminist issue as I wanted to do some research into gender neural advertising. I read an article about there is a “new wave of feminists”, using social media as a platform for change which explores how a hashtag can become a “tool for female liberation” (Brandes, 2016). Social media is the current pathway for self-expression, which has helped liberate women who don’t feel they fit the socalled perfection. It allows women of colour and disabilities psychically and mentally to reach out to a broad audience in an attempt to “enjoy the immediacy of self-representation and to claim and celebrate their existence from anywhere in the world” (Brandes, 2016). Hashtags such as #freethenipple and #Iwokeuplikethis has amplified that women can be accepted in a nonsexualised and none groomed way (Brandes, 2016). It celebrates women for their natural beauty and not a socially modified and influenced creation; one thats has no relevance to whom they truly are. Furthermore, the LGBT community has been liberated through social media platforms such as Instagram, where their bodies and gender fluid ideas are freed. Even leading celebrities are getting involved in a gender and sexuality fluid movement, Cara Delevingne openly admits that she is bisexual, her personality and beauty is celebrated throughout the world which is helping create acceptance for non-heterosexuality, through her activist pursuits. Fundamentally, “One facet of a movement which must be supported in all its attempts to decry the systematic repression, racism, dismissal and contempt of those less privileged by our culture” (Brandes, 2016).

"Hashtags such as #freethenipple and #Iwokeuplikethis has amplified that women can be accepted in a nonsexualised and none groomed way (Brandes, 2016)"

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WEEK TWO GROUP WORK Mega, macro, micro and fad trends were examined in the second lecture, alongside the identifying the current zeitgeist which is the foundation of our group work. Through the lecture, I learnt that a mega-trend could be defined as a “long-term change that affects governments, societies and economies permanently over an extended period of time. Megatrends drive other trends in financial markets regarding sales, growth and innovation. Some mega trends that have altered the global economy include urbanisation, transportation, communications and technology” (Anon, 2016). Whereas, a Macrotrend is a “largescale, sustained shift in consumer interest” (Mack, 2016). A macro trend creates an environment where micro trends can thrive. Megatrends are usually perceived as fads, which are less influential, affecting a narrow range of customers. Fads connote a temporary notion that is embraced and followed by a group (Anon, 2016). The group work consisted of deciding three key themes, the radical future, optimum mind and body and an army of loyal followers. Together we brain stormed ideas for each theme. Our group identified the three key themes, origins and the trends surrounding them; below is a list we constructed together:

"Three key themes, the radical future, optimum mind and body and an army of loyal followers. " REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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THE RADICAL FUTURE

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GROUP WORK LIST: The Radical Future

BREXIT and Trump A feeling of Nationalism stemmed in both America and UK from terrorism that dates back to 9/11. - Anti-Muslim - Obama care – administration problem – people against a welfare system – Trump promises Utopia (idealist vision) – making America great again - Increased security results in strict immigration laws - Economic crisis – protest vote for a significant change - Financial cutbacks – hostility towards government and immigrants - Unemployment creating a feeling of people wanting to keep jobs in the UK for British people - Recently with migrants from Syria – possible terrorists Optimum Mind and Body - Increase in terrorists coming to Europe - Xenophobia – Fear of other cultures - Health fad/fitness/veganism - Populist movement – Trump, Nigel Farage, Boris Johnson - Depression and mental well-being - Stress/Depression and anxiety levels have risen - Unemployment and recession - People feeling overworked - In the UK, the total number of days lost due to stress, depression or anxiety was 11.3m in 2013–2014, an average of 23 days per case (LS: N Global) - 'Burnout, stress and depression have become worldwide epidemics.’ (LS: N Global, 2016) - People are now combatting this feeling of brittle exhaustion with a drive to make themselves more efficient, to maximise their time and better use their minds (LS: N Global, 2016) - Social media influence in fitness - Sustainability Drivers - Veganism becoming a social activity -

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Consumers are looking for opportunities to get the most out of every aspect of their lives, fitting health and wellbeing choices into their hectic lifestyles. (LS: N Global, 2016) - Lululemon Sensation leggings: A range of attire to emphasise how women feel when wearing them - Brands trying to engage with customers by using emotions and sensations to help them feel their best selves - Equinox – headstrong class - Trains the brain and body - A combination of fashion, technology and well-being

Army of Loyal Followers Social media following New influencers of fashion and other lifestyle trends REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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"We’re living in a turbulent time flooded by corrupt governments, inequality, the refugee crisis, terrorism, an enormous divide between the wealthy and poor and financial instability."

Throughout our group research we were able to identify the current ‘zeitgeist’ which was radical change; due to the world becoming disconnected and dislocated. We’re living in a turbulent time flooded by corrupt governments, inequality, the refugee crisis, terrorism, an enormous divide between the wealthy and poor and financial instability. Politicians are benefiting from societies fears of mass migration and work shortages which have instigated current right-wing policies. Thus, consumers are misled, ignored and defeated; which is encouraging new trends to form.

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In furtherance of staying connected with the group and being able to share ideas freely, we created a Facebook chat and Google doc’s page where we could contribute and communicate ideas. This communication process was beneficial, although it would have been nice to meet up more often as a group to discuss potential ideas and to make sure everyone understood the work. I should have been more efficient in organising allocated meetings, although it was relatively complicated as some of the group had other commitments.

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WEEK THREE

FIG.10.

"Digital Fashion Things" The group session focused on understanding where the trends originated from and where we sourced the data to develop and track a journey for each trend. It's important to keep a record of where data comes from to spread knowledge and understand the process of how that particular trend developed. I started the week with a lot of reading to learn and research our trends. I came across an interesting article in Pigeons and Peacocks, a magazine published by UAL students, which had a section on ‘Digital fashion things’. The article explored the work of The Digital Anthropology Lab and how they’re using digital technology to enhance human experience through fashion (Fox, 2016 ).

The technology was explored by a group of MA students, called Elevate; their design concept was to see how the technology worked without a screen. Thus, they created a necklace that “detects and combats bad posture by sending the wearer vibrations and light signals until they correct their alignment” (Fox,2016). I viewed this as a fashion, technology and wellbeing trend that helps our quality of life. I decided to utilise this trend in the group presentation, under the category of optimum mind and body. I focused on creating my slides for the group presentation and practising my notes whenever I got the chance.

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WEEK FOUR FIG.11.

GROUP CONTENT : PRESENTATION WorkOur withmain yourheadings team to decide how you are were, world events, goingenvironment, to present these in week 5. Our main political, social and technological, headings where, word events, environment, with our pivotal theme being a radical change. political, social and technological, with our We issued individual tasks to each person so central beingspread a radical thattheme we could thechange. researchWe outissued between individual tasks to each person so that we could all of us. Additionally, we established Google spread the as research outplatform betweenwhere all of us. slides an online we could Additionally, establishedtogether, Google slides asbits an of input ourwe presentation adding onlineresearch platformaswhere we could input our we went along. presentation together, adding bits of research as we went along.

"Team Elevate "Team Elevate developed a developed a necklacenecklace that that detects bad detects bad postureposture" "

Equinox – headstrong class Trains the brain and body: fitness blogs, motivation and positivity - Making money out of making others feel good about themselves. If someone believes they can look that skinny and healthy, they will buy that book or work out dvd. -

Instagram meal preps, quick, healthy recipes in seconds though videos It is becoming easier to be healthier as complex recipes made simple and easy on social media: facebook pages such as tasty -

Lifestyle bloggers such as Tammy Hembrow: The UN urge a global movement in a Vegan diet in order to save the world from the worst impacts of climate change, hunger and fuel poverty -

Optimum Mind and Body The interaction of technology, well-being and fashion and how technology can work without a screen or interface. There is a massive shift to preventative medical concepts that integrate technology that is adapted for our bodies. Team Elevate developed a necklace that detects bad posture, with the idea in mind that we spend too much time looking at screens, by texting, ‘text neck’, sends vibrations and light signals to tell the consumer they need to straighten their posture (Fox, 2016).

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PRESENTATION NOTES SLIDE 1 There is a current shift towards technology, fashion and well-being. A group of MA students from the London College of Fashion formed, Elevate. Elevate adapted a necklace that detects bad posture, by sending vibrations and light signals to the wearer, until they correct their alignment. The design was based on the brief - (No hands) to see how we can interact with technologies without using a screen. We’re beginning to see experimentation and a trend in technology; That's adapted for our bodies to prevent future health complications.

FIG.12/13.

SLIDE 2 There is a current shift towards technology, fashion and well-being. A group of MA students from the London College of Fashion formed, Elevate. Elevate adapted a necklace that detects bad posture, by sending vibrations and light signals to the wearer, until they correct their alignment. The design was based on the brief - (No hands) to see how we can interact with technologies without using a screen. We’re beginning to see experimentation and a trend in technology; That's adapted for our bodies to prevent future health complications.

"future skin that is sensory and emotionally responsive " REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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WEEK FIVE

FIG.14.

"THE RADICAL FUTURE" I couldn’t access the group feedback as I didn’t participate in the group presentation due to severe traffic on my commute to university. I felt extremely annoyed that I missed the presentation as I put a lot of time and effort into practising it. I have no idea what the verbal feedback was as nobody told me. I was quite disappointed with the communication of the group this week. Regarding selfdevelopment, I should have stayed the night in Leeds overnight, instead of commuting one hour and a half like most days.

The trend I selected to take further was the radial future, during the group sessions, background evidence was gathered through a ‘PESTEL’ analysis, to understanding consumer drivers. These factors consist of political, economic, social, technology, environment and legal influencers.

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PESTEL FIG.15.

ECONOMICS POLITICAL Brexit and the newly elected American president Donald Trump has had an adverse effect creating uncertainty throughout the world. We are living in a turbulent time where extreme views are influencing political policies. A sense of ambivalence faces the UK’s fashion industry after the UK’s vote to leave the European Union. This regressive act has caused “brand limiting impact” (WGSN, 2016). Notions of Britain are being challenged which may impact on luxury consumption as the consumer buy British products in relation to how they feel towards the country (WGSN, 2016). There may also be a dramatic change in UK trades, if they UK isn’t allowed entry into the European market. Profound political views have significant consequences on tourism. “Middle Eastern travellers account for 42% of total UK sales, growing 7% on last year, according to data from Global Blue” (WGSN, 2016). Middle Eastern tourists may have second thoughts when visiting the UK if the UK Muslims continue to be attacked. The devaluation of the pound sterling makes visiting the UK the most affordable it’s ever been.

Increasing capitalism, low incomes and the gig economy has consequently left young consumers in a constant state of frustration that os affecting their buying patterns. These economic factors are contributing to the rise in dissatisfaction (Laboratory, 2016). Allen (2016) examined the work of the, Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) who stated: prompt action by the Bank of England to cut interest rates had cushioned the blow from June’s Brexit vote but it still believes the UK will suffer a sharp slowdown next year amid heightened uncertainty” “

Consequently, consumers will have less disposable income and will be careful with their finances, due to an uncertain Brexit future and unemployment at “an 11-year low of 4.9%” (Allen, 2016). An uncertain future leaves retailers and wholesalers anxious about large amounts of inventory, thus lost profits from appeal being sold at decreased prices; to compete with other mainstream brands (Suttle, 2016). Imported garments will become more expensive which will result in a rise of British brought products. The Guardian depicted these exports would help weaken the pound (Allen, 2016).

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PESTEL FIG.16.

SOCIAL

TECHNOLOGY

Brexit has refashioned society and divide Britain as the EU referendum revealed Britain’s conflicting cultural visions. “The new culture war is about class, and income, and education, but also about culture, race, nationalism and optimism about the future” (Bush, 2016). There are fears for an inward focus, rising costs, restricted movement around the EU without a visa and a decrease in funding from EU sources (Miller, 2016). Britain’s older generation imposed “its nostalgic parochialism on an increasingly cosmopolitan younger generation” (Kaletsky, 2016). This “cosmopolitan younger generation” will no doubt ignite an unattached trend; as a reaction to nationalistic notions and racial discrimination (Kaletsky, 2016). The neutral lifestyle trend will encompass a liberal ideology and fluidity between genders. This trend will break down gender and racial boundaries by endorsing a nihilistic attitude toward current intense political and outdated perspectives.

There is anxiety about improvements in technology as it “could increase the divide between the haves and the have-nots” (Laboratory, 2016). Additionally, the scope of resources, production and demand are all key technological microenvironmental factors impacting the fashion industry (Suttle, 2016). New technical materials, such as 3D printing techniques, may create a shift towards a new approach to the way we consume and wear garments, directing the focus away from traditional materials and apparel. Advances in technological innovations may replace workers with robots in the retail and manufacturing sector, therefore affecting the overall market structure (Suttle, 2016).

ENVIRONMENT The Wests vicious quest for profit, no matter what the cost, is putting the environment and the entire planet at risk. Uncertain finical markets will impact the investments needed to keep the environment safe and clean. It is unclear whether the UK’s once fast-growing green economy will continue to progress (Carrington, 2016).

LEGAL Legal rights may affect trade and imports, after the vote for Brexit, which will determine wholesalers and retailers to look to other suppliers. “Brexit is likely to trigger extremely complex legal ramifications and contingent uncertainty, not least in terms of the law” (Haywood, 2016). The UK will have no involvement with the EU treaties once the exit agreement is in place. The UK won't be able to trade with the EU if their laws aren’t complied with, which could have an immensely disruptive effect on the fashion industry (Haywood, 2016).

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WEEK SIX Imagine the unimaginable and The Trend Cartogram The lecture focused on forecasting research methods and discussed the Trend Cartogram. The main idea to keep in mind was that the trend cartogram was an organic process. A trend cartogram is a technique of displaying geographic data in a strategically, illustrative and simplified manner. It represents a trend in a way that examines the innovators of the trend, depicting (the ‘who’). Alongside, the trend title (the ‘what’) and the (the ‘where’), representing the current contact with the trend and today's society. Also, it portrays (the ‘why’) the prominent drivers behind the trend and (the ‘when’) which explores the short and long term impact of the trend (Raymond, 2010). In summary, the trend cartogram recognises and communicates what these current alterations will mean to the culture and society, we’re a part of today, in the long run (Raymond, 2010). The ‘zeitgeist’ defining the current mood is ‘radical change’. This volatile period is causing a shift in our current society which is resulting in boomerang trends. The predicted trend is ‘The Nihilistic Neutrals’, a disinterested and gender fluid culture materialising from the fight against political unrest, corruption, terrorist attacks and perpetual state of suffering. This nonaligned trend inspires an open minded and unobjectionable lifestyle in a world of upheaval. This future lifestyle trend is a backlash towards the current profound shift in politics and the economy, which could cause a potential neutral movement; that is an act of rebellion but also a way of finding positivity in the future. It's a liberal movement, where discrimination no longer exists in furtherance of creating a society that respects each and every individual. It’s a movement that is nonreactive to the current extreme political changes, hence the trend name, nihilistic neutrals.

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WEEK SEVEN

FIG.17.

"Their gender fluidity and multicultural ambience have emerged as a consequence of today’s political unrest." The session focused on visual communication skills and the execution of our ideas into the final submission. We were asked to continue to work towards furthering our research on our chosen trend and discuss our research in the next session. I started by examining the trends innovators and discovered three unique individuals Andrej Pejic, Shaun Ross and Tatiana represent (the ‘who’) of the ‘Nihilistic Neutrals’. These key innovators connote a disconnected and non-aligned vision of contemporary society. Their gender fluidity and multicultural ambience have emerged as a consequence of today’s political unrest. “The distinction between man and woman is disappearing, aesthetically at least. "This is a big facet of our culture right now” (Gregory and Demarchelier, 2015). All three work in unique ways in their professional practice with the same liberal mindset, all are fighting for equality and the aim of creating new cultural niches. REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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THE NIHILISTIC NEUTRALS

LS: N. Global provided useful and relevant information for my chosen trend. Daniela Walker, Victoria Buchanan and Rachael Stott distinguished a macro trend based on neutral culture and diversity in the LGBT community. Walker et al. (2015) suggested: Historically, race and gender have been the most divisive markers of identity. And while they are a foundation of mainstream culture, we are beginning to see early adopters and innovators challenge these rigid classifications and replace them with visions of identity that are more personal and nuanced”. “

This outlook depicts a theme very similar to my developing trend, ‘The Nihilistic Neutrals’ target market encompasses men and women, of all ethnicities from the millennial generation. Their liberal state of mind is a reaction to the current atmosphere of political unrest. ‘The Nihilistic Neutrals' embodies all types of sexual orientation, where gender fluidity is the primary source of fractious expression.

FIG.18.

"‘The Nihilistic Neutrals' embodies all types of sexual orientation, where gender fluidity is the primary source of fractious expression. "

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FIG.19/20. TRENDS AND FORECASTING

WEEK EIGHT COMMUNICATING AND MARKETING The Nihilistic Neutrals’ target market encompasses men and women, of all ethnicities from the millennial generation, embodying all types of sexual orientation, where gender fluidity is the primary source of fractious expression. Social media would be the most efficient approach to communicating and marketing the trend. The majority of students and young professionals use social media platforms to communicate. Thus, an integrated marketing communications campaign would be the most effective as you can reach your target audience directly 24/7. Another marketing technique that may be useful is celebrity endorsement and influential online bloggers, i.e. using celebrities that promote similar values that represent the trend, for example, gender fluidity and a liberal mindset. “Bloggers, journalists or simply wellconnected movers and shakers whose word, either in person or via social media, can have a dramatic effect” (Cope and Maloney, 2016). Furthermore, distribution channels should be encouraged to create an increase in market shares, sales and develop customer traffic through the use of social media (Cope and Maloney, 2016). ‘

"An integrated marketing communications campaign would be the most effective as you can reach your target audience directly 24/7 "

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WEEK NINE

PEER REVIEW FEEDBACK The week commenced with a peer review group seminar to see how our work was progressing. I thoroughly enjoyed this session as we got the opportunity to look at everyone's current progress and discuss their ideas and what their next steps were.

The comments I received from the group stated that I had a good theme that was direct and well focused. They were impressed with the research and the resources I’d used in terms of finding relevant articles in magazines that were well related to my trend. They suggested that I used the gender fluid advertisements in the iD magazine as a background for my trend journal, scanning them on to InDesign. They believed my trends originated back to the antiestablishment, hippie movement in the 1960s were society were unhappy which helped spark a change. I was encouraged to do more research on genderless clothing and androgyny. All of the group wrote their comments on a sheet so I could add it in my reflective journal. I enjoyed the process of communicating my ideas to help the rest of groups work; the feedback was interesting and informative, providing us all with a different viewpoint on our work. REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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WEEK TEN & ELEVEN CONCLUSION Unfortunately, I wasn't able to attend this session due to ill health. Consequently, I carried on piecing my final submission together. I’ve fallen behind due to my poor health which has stressed me out a great deal. Unfortunately, these things happen, and I must work extra hard to catch up before week 11. I understand that I need to take more care of my mental health to work to the best of my ability.

"I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the trends are forecasting industry and the organic process throughout the module. "

The trends and forecasting module has been an exciting journey, full of ups and downs, selfdoubt and feeling confident from the relief of finishing the module. I thoroughly enjoyed learning about the trends are forecasting industry and the organic process throughout the module. However, there would be a lot of things I would do in a different way if I were to attempt this task again. The first being time management by setting myself weekly goals to meet, instead of letting the workload build up over time and not being able to tackle it, due to poor health and stress levels. Also, I would improve our group communication in the attempt to organise once a week meetings so that everybody is update and able to express their ideas freely. Additionally, I still need to improve my communication skills which have always been a weakness of mine; it's imperative that I do so in furtherance of developing my professional skills.

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bibliography Books Cope, J. and Maloney, D. 2016. Fashion promotion in practice. United Kingdom: Bloomsbury Academic. Raymond, M. 2010. The trend forecaster’s handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing.

Journal

Fox, L. 2016. Digital Fashion Things: Look mum no hands. Pigeons and Peacocks, p.77.

Online resources Allen, K. 2016. The Brexit economy: Post-referendum data defies gloomy UK predictions. The Guardian. [Online]. [Accessed 19 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/sep/21/post-referendum-gloom-fears-confounded-economic-evidence. Anon. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 6 December 2016]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/unpicking-gender-and-consumerism-with-iconic-feminist-artist-natalia-ll. Brandes, B. 2016. Can your selfie really change the world? [Online]. [Accessed 14 December 2016]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/can-your-selfie-reallychange-the-world. Bush, S. 2016. Divided Britain: How the EU referendum exposed Britain’s new culture war. [Online]. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/uk/2016/06/divided-britain-how-referendum-exposed-britains-culture-war. Carrington, D. 2016. UK’s out vote is a ‘red alert’ for the environment. The Guardian. [Online].[Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/damian-carrington-blog/2016/jun/24/uks-out-vote-is-a-red-alert-for-the-environment. Gregory, A. and Demarchelier, P. 2015. Has the fashion industry reached a Transgender turning point? [Online]. [Accessed 5 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/13253741/andreja-pejic-transgender-model/. Heywood, D. 2016. Brexit – the potential impact on the UK’s legal system. [Online]. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://unitedkingdom.taylorwessing.com/download/article-brexit-uk-legal-system.html. Kaletsky, A. 2016. Trump’s rise and Brexit vote are more an outcome of culture than economics. [Online]. The Guardian. 19 November. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/oct/28/trumps-rise-and-brexit-vote-are-more-an-outcome-of-culture-than-economics. Laboratory, T.F. 2016. Global futures report. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: http://www.globalfuturesforum.com/? __hstc=220147718.f3fafd2f1509e775709852dd19d1111c.1479388342717.1479388342717.1479388342717.1&__hssc=220147718.1.1479388342717&__hsfp=86143320 4. LS: N Global. 2016. The Optimised self. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://www.lsnglobal.com/trend-tracker-3/article/19699/the-optimised-self-1. Miller, P. 2016. Beyond Brexit: Report highlights multiple fears of cultural world after Brexit. [Online]. [Accessed 19 November 2016]. Available from: http://files.heraldscotland.com/politics/14913054.Beyond_Brexit__Report_highlights_multiple_fears_of_cultural_world_after_Brexit/?ref=rss. Suttle, R. 2016. The Macroenvironmental factors affecting the clothing industry. Small Business Chron. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: http://smallbusiness.chron.com/macroenvironmental-factors-affecting-clothing-industry-37254.html. Walker, D., Buchanan, V. and Stott, R. 2015. Neutral culture. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://www.lsnglobal.com/macrotrends/article/18091/neutral-culture. WGSN. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/brand-britain-how-brexit-may-affect-the-british-fashion-industry/.

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Online Image sources Figure 1: Anon. 2015. #HMBALMAINATION - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/568931365406437311/. Figure 2: Anon. 2014. #ATTACKART - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/389209592777390880/. Figure 3: Anon. 2016. Men’s fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/557039047633389878/. Figure 4: Anon. 2016. Urbanna. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/414190496960856673/. Figure 5: Anon. 2011. GENDERLESS BEAUTY. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/463237511656874377/. Figure 6-8: Lam, T., Cheng, Z., Chen, L. and Haines, A. 2016. ‘I-d’ magazine’s ‘female gaze’ issue celebrates visionary women within fashion industry and beyond. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: http://hypebae.com/2016/8/id-female-gaze-issue. Figure 9: Anon. 1989. Neutral. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467320678/. Figure 10: DIGITAL ANTHROPOLOGY LAB. 2016. Projects. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.digital-anthropologylab.com/lab-projects/. Figure 11: Anon. 2016. Gender role-reversal editorials. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467434034/. Figure 12-13: DIGITAL ANTHROPOLOGY LAB. 2016. #nohandsLCF. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.digitalanthropology-lab.com/nohandslcf/. Figure 14: Anon. 1965. A huge mural of Donald Trump and Boris Johnson kissing has appeared in Bristol. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/16466354867197906/. Figure 15: Anon. 2016. Syrian refugees. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467126016/. Figure 16: Anon. 2016. Theresa May is proof that female politicians don’t have to be afraid of fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/520728775648627572/. Figure 17: Anon. 2016. Ader error by can Dagarslani. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/365917538451003177/. Figure 18: Anon. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467138515/. Figure 19: Anon. 2013. Neutral. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467304538/. Figure 20: Fletcher, J. 2016. Mexican architect Tatiana Bilbao Reimagines smart affordable housing. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467321427/. Figure 21: Anon. 2015. Confused - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467169681/.

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REFERENCES Books Cope, J. and Maloney, D. 2016. Fashion promotion in practice. United Kingdom: Bloomsbury Academic. Raymond, M. 2010. The trend forecaster’s handbook. London: Laurence King Publishing.

Journal

Fox, L. 2016. Digital Fashion Things: Look mum no hands. Pigeons and Peacocks, p.77.

Online resources Allen, K. 2016. The Brexit economy: Post-referendum data defies gloomy UK predictions. The Guardian. [Online]. [Accessed 19 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/sep/21/post-referendum-gloom-fears-confounded-economic-evidence. Anon. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 6 December 2016]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/unpicking-gender-and-consumerism-with-iconic-feminist-artist-natalia-ll. Brandes, B. 2016. Can your selfie really change the world? [Online]. [Accessed 14 December 2016]. Available from: https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/can-your-selfie-reallychange-the-world. Bush, S. 2016. Divided Britain: How the EU referendum exposed Britain’s new culture war. [Online]. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: http://www.newstatesman.com/politics/uk/2016/06/divided-britain-how-referendum-exposed-britains-culture-war. Carrington, D. 2016. UK’s out vote is a ‘red alert’ for the environment. The Guardian. [Online].[Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/damian-carrington-blog/2016/jun/24/uks-out-vote-is-a-red-alert-for-the-environment. Gregory, A. and Demarchelier, P. 2015. Has the fashion industry reached a Transgender turning point? [Online]. [Accessed 5 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.vogue.com/13253741/andreja-pejic-transgender-model/. Heywood, D. 2016. Brexit – the potential impact on the UK’s legal system. [Online]. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://unitedkingdom.taylorwessing.com/download/article-brexit-uk-legal-system.html. Kaletsky, A. 2016. Trump’s rise and Brexit vote are more an outcome of culture than economics. [Online]. The Guardian. 19 November. [Accessed 21 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/oct/28/trumps-rise-and-brexit-vote-are-more-an-outcome-of-culture-than-economics. Laboratory, T.F. 2016. Global futures report. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: http://www.globalfuturesforum.com/? __hstc=220147718.f3fafd2f1509e775709852dd19d1111c.1479388342717.1479388342717.1479388342717.1&__hssc=220147718.1.1479388342717&__hsfp=86143320 4. LS: N Global. 2016. The Optimised self. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://www.lsnglobal.com/trend-tracker-3/article/19699/the-optimised-self-1. Miller, P. 2016. Beyond Brexit: Report highlights multiple fears of cultural world after Brexit. [Online]. [Accessed 19 November 2016]. Available from: http://files.heraldscotland.com/politics/14913054.Beyond_Brexit__Report_highlights_multiple_fears_of_cultural_world_after_Brexit/?ref=rss. Suttle, R. 2016. The Macroenvironmental factors affecting the clothing industry. Small Business Chron. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: http://smallbusiness.chron.com/macroenvironmental-factors-affecting-clothing-industry-37254.html. Walker, D., Buchanan, V. and Stott, R. 2015. Neutral culture. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://www.lsnglobal.com/macrotrends/article/18091/neutral-culture. WGSN. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 18 November 2016]. Available from: https://www.wgsn.com/blogs/brand-britain-how-brexit-may-affect-the-british-fashion-industry/.

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IMAGE REFERENCES Figure 1: Anon. 2015. #HMBALMAINATION - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/568931365406437311/. Figure 2: Anon. 2014. #ATTACKART - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/389209592777390880/. Figure 3: Anon. 2016. Men’s fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/557039047633389878/. Figure 4: Anon. 2016. Urbanna. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/414190496960856673/. Figure 5: Anon. 2011. GENDERLESS BEAUTY. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/463237511656874377/. Figure 6-8: Lam, T., Cheng, Z., Chen, L. and Haines, A. 2016. ‘I-d’ magazine’s ‘female gaze’ issue celebrates visionary women within fashion industry and beyond. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: http://hypebae.com/2016/8/id-female-gaze-issue. Figure 9: Anon. 1989. Neutral. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467320678/. Figure 10: DIGITAL ANTHROPOLOGY LAB. 2016. Projects. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.digital-anthropologylab.com/lab-projects/. Figure 11: Anon. 2016. Gender role-reversal editorials. [Online]. [Accessed 15 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467434034/. Figure 12-13: DIGITAL ANTHROPOLOGY LAB. 2016. #nohandsLCF. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: http://www.digitalanthropology-lab.com/nohandslcf/. Figure 14: Anon. 1965. A huge mural of Donald Trump and Boris Johnson kissing has appeared in Bristol. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/16466354867197906/. Figure 15: Anon. 2016. Syrian refugees. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467126016/. Figure 16: Anon. 2016. Theresa May is proof that female politicians don’t have to be afraid of fashion. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/520728775648627572/. Figure 17: Anon. 2016. Ader error by can Dagarslani. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/365917538451003177/. Figure 18: Anon. 2016. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467138515/. Figure 19: Anon. 2013. Neutral. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467304538/. Figure 20: Fletcher, J. 2016. Mexican architect Tatiana Bilbao Reimagines smart affordable housing. [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467321427/. Figure 21: Anon. 2015. Confused - Fucking young! [Online]. [Accessed 16 December 2016]. Available from: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/489696159467169681/. REFLECTIVE JOURNAL


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