Film noir

Jenni Liinavuori

FASHION CULTURE ESSAY BA Fashion Marketing & Communication, Level 6, 2016-2017 Fashion Culture 3 CW2 Fashion in Cinema & Music Maya McCarthy

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CONTENTS INTRODUCTION 6

EVOLUTION THROUGH DECADES 10 SOCIAL AND CULTURAL FACTORS OF THE 20TH CENTURY

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ANALYSIS OF THE EVOLUTION

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EVIDENCE OF REPERCUSSION IN PRESENT TIME IN FASHION

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CONCLUSION 21 BIBLIOGRAPHY 22

INTRODUCTION

Film Noir, a French term meaning ‘’black film’’ or ‘’film of the night’’. Film noir term was originally used on Hollywood’s thriller or detective movies made in the period of early 40’s to the late 50’s. Film noir usually has a mood of pessimism and fatalism and it usually emphasize sexual motivations. The classic film noir period started in the 1940’s and lasted until the late 1950’s.

Touch of Evil, a film noir movie released in the 1958, is a good example of the last movies released in the classic era of film noir. The black and white visual style is coming from German expressionism that started at the beginning of the 20th century. The name expressionism. Typical to expressionism is to evoke emotional experiences rather than presenting the physical reality. According to American movie director, scriptwriter and critic Paul Schrader, the classic film noir era started in 1941 from The Maltese Falcon directed by John Huston and ended to Orson Welles’ movie Touch of evil in1958. Many of the stories and attitudes that emerged in the film noir movies were coming from hardboiled crime fiction which emerged in the USA in the 1930’s during the economic depression.

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Technically speaking film noir is not really a genre, is considered to be more of a style, point of view and mood of a film. Film noir usually refers to the era of filming making that occurred after WW II. The term film noir was invented in 1946 by a French film critic Nino Frank. Frank noticed how dark the American crime and detective movies were during the time period that followed after the World War II. The WW II led to insecurity and tension which many film noir movies like Laura, Double Indemnity and The Maltese Falcon were reflecting to in the early 40’s. Film noir was also counteract to the musicals and comedies made during the same time period that were indicating optimism.

would be often suffering. This was linked to the war time period were women were sent to work and they gained new level of independence.

Furthermore there were other type of female characters, opposite to the femme fatales in film noir. These females were reliable and loving women.

The storylines in film noir were often twisting and non-linear. The story is usually complex and difficult to follow and would use flashbacks, voice over and suspicious background music for its storytelling. Common plot is having an innocent man who is either framed or fell victim over a temptation, usually manipulated by a female. The movies usually shot in black and white or gloomy grays was indicating the darker side of the human being.

Main characteristics to film noir was indicating fear, paranoia, mistrust and desperation which was reflecting to the period of war. The criminals, anti-heroes and violence were symbols and symptoms towards the evilness that happened and was still happening in the world during and after WW II. Also one of the main characteristic to film noir was not having a happy ending.

Because of the Hays Code in the 1930-1968 which limited the amount of sex and violence used in movies, so the dramatic tension has be created other ways. This often came from the composition and lightning. Composition in film noir movies was usually asymmetrical and unbalanced. The focus would be deep and the background would be as equally important. The lightning would have a high contrast with long shadows and without fill light. Mirrors and reflections would be used to create more tension, drama and unreality.

Camera position would be using both really low or high angles and extremely close closeups in order of creating that high intensity in the movies. Other key elements in the movies were cigarette smoke and threatening shadows that created disorienting visuals. The setting in interior has limited lightning usually coming from single source, creating gloomy aesthetic.

Outside scenes were usually during the evening/ night with dark alleys and streets, rain and deep shadows. The locations in film noir movies were usually in big cities like Los Angeles or San Francisco. (filmsite.org)

Peculiar to a film noir was a story created around a male lead character who was cynical and hard-hearted (e.g.

Humphrey Bogart, Fred Mac Murray and James Cagney).

The heroes/ anti-heroes, villains, detectives and criminals were usually from the corrupted and violent underworld.

Characteristic to these characters were being cynical, sexually obsessive, insecure or disillusioned. And they would usually loose.

The story would include beautiful seductive woman character, often referred as femme fatale. Iconic femme fatales in the film noir era were actresses Veronica Lake, Rita Hayworth, Lizabeth Scott and Barbara Stanwyck just to mention a few. The femme fatale character would usually use her sexuality as a weapon and a way to manipulate the male character.

The femme fatale usually betrayed the male character but didn’t herself either have a happy ending. In the movies the women character(s) 7

Born in 1924 the American actress Lauren Bacall was known of her beautiful looks, deep husky voice, cat-like green eyes and New York City accent which she made as her recognisable trademarks. She was coming from middle-class family and her both parents had an immigrant background. Lauren originally wanted to become a dancer but changed her interested into acting. After being spotted modelling in the cover of Harper’s Bazaar magazine Lauren did her first movie only at the age of 19, To Have and Have Not (1944) with Humphrey Bogart whom she also married. After her debut movie she starred in several film noir movies like The Big Sleep, Dark Passage and Key Largo. Lauren Bacall has rewarded being 20th greatest female star in Classic Hollywood Cinema. She was known of her simple and effortlessly glamorous style.

Humphrey Bogart is one of the most iconic actors and he is most known of his film noir movies. He has starred some of the most iconic and famous film noir movies like The Maltese Falcon and The Big Sleep. Bogart was born and raised in New York City. During his career Bogart appeared in 75 films. His acting was usually unassuming but expressive. He was known of interpreting man character who were cynic hard hearted from the outside but sensitive from the inside. His acting was usually unassuming but expressive.

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Veronica Lake was an American actress especially known of her femme fatale roles in film noir movies like This Gun for Hire, The Glass Key and The Blue Dahlia with another iconic film noir actor Alan Ladd. Her signature look included the blond long wavy hair which was always covering her right eye, this look was also referred to the peek-a-boo hairstyle which became one of her trademarks. She was one of the most popular actresses in the 40’s but her career had a sharp drop in the 50’s due to her mental problems and alcoholism.

Alan Ladd was known from his performances in both film noir and western movies. After pairing with Veronica Lake in three different film noirs they were called the dynamic duo. In total they appeared in seven movies together.

Hi was one of the biggest movies stars of his time. Alan Ladd was known to be an extremely small and short man and for his movies Ladd had to use shoe lifts or stood on a platform in order of achieving the needed height for cinema.

Like his co-star Lake, Alan Ladd also suffered from alcohol abuse and eventually died having an overdose, combination of drugs and alcohol.

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EVOLUTION THROUGH DECADES

Like stated before the actual term of film noir was not created until 1946 which also didn’t achieve a common usage in the USA for another 25 years. The filmmakers in the 40’s weren’t making film noirs by purpose. They were creating dramas that included mysteries, crimes and thriller elements which stories were inspired by the hardboiled crime novels and was evolved from the German expressionism. The film noir movies portrayed the world being dark with crime and corruption which was also linked to the time period of WW II but also not knowing what is considered to be right and wrong. The times were hazy and the movies reflected how the Americans felt at the time.

Though the classic film noir era is said to have lasted in the end of 1950’s. There was a change happening in the 50’s and the movies started to be different, as they tend to have less femme fatales and detective characters and the stories were more about organized crime, communism

and psychological problems. The term film noir was first used only for American made films but after 60’s many films released abroad that had the same characteristic to film noir started to be called as neo noir.

The neo noir was developed during the time period of the Cold War. During this time period the film were reflecting to the fear and cynicism of the times threat of nuclear destruction. After the end of Hays Code in 1968 the movies were able to try new things, for example violence in the movies started to be more intense than ever it was in the classic film noir movies. Also updating having colours and having more sexual content happened. For conclusion, neo noir movies which are released in the present days carry some of the main characteristics of film noir but are just reformed for the contemporary times.

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40’s

-Dark for the times -Reflected the Americans feeling during the post war period -Realism which was new to the Americans -The Maltese Falcon, Double Indemnity, Laura

50’s

-Still considered to be the era of classic film noir -Less femme fatales and detectives -More about organized crime and psychological problems -Sunset Boulevard, Touch of Evil

60’s/ 70’s 80’s 90’s/ 2000’s

-End of classic film noir era -Beginning of neo noir -More violence and sexual content -Shot in colour -Chinatown -More Hollywood feel -Less twisted and dark -Scarface

-The movies started be darker and twisted again -More complex storyline -Se7en, Pulp Fiction, L.A. Confidential, Drive

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SOCIAL AND CULTURAL FACTORS OF THE 20TH CENTURY

In the 19th century, America was pre-industrialized country which democratic equality was based on property ownership. In the early 20th century developed into industrialized nation. People were moving to cities from the countryside and in 1920 it was the first time when more people were living in the cities than in the country. People’s lifestyles changed from property ownership to receiving pay-checks from their work, still people were thinking that they were living in the property ownership era. After the Great Depression people started to realize the transition to the era of industrialisation. Film noir showed this transition that happened in the Americans minds.

People’s identities were in crisis and like in film noir movies the Americans felt desperate and confused. During the war people were used to be working together for the sake of better nation.

When the WW II ended so did the group community, people became more fearful and delusional.

Before the Americans were used to be free and create their own destiny but after the WW II people started to become obligated to the economics and political system which they could not have control over. In film noir movies the protagonists are indicating this loss of power and fate. The male characters are disillusioned, cynical and feeling powerless which was easy for the Americans relate to. During the war women were sent to work and they gained more independency which also redefined the women’s place in the society. This also confused the traditionally viewed gender roles of the time. When women entered to the working world which was used to be dominated by men, the men in the American society got confused. Film noir was also reflecting the Americans fear about the nuclear annihilation, emerging crime and violence and communism. It showed the desperate and confused America at its time. (let.rug.nl) 12

ANALYSIS OF THE EVOLUTION So the 1940’s America and its population was having an identity crisis due to the changed lifestyles after the industrialization and World War II. Men coming back home after war and realising that the gender roles were reversed, the communities had disappeared, wives weren’t dependent of their men anymore, and people felt not having the same kind of freedom and power over their life’s anymore. Film noir was trying to create different kind of solutions for the problems that the American citizens were having in their minds. And the characters seen in the movies were the ones that the everyday American could actually relate to. The film noir movies in the 40’s were pessimistic, dark and clouded and there is no clear right and wrong, just showing how cruel the world was.

The 50’s film noir were continuations to the same issues but also started to reflect more on the other current problems, one of them being the Red Scare. The films still carried the same cynicism as in the 40’s and are considered to belong to the classic era of film noir.

The 60’s was when the neo noir begun and film noir ended. Tension, failures, doubts started to emerge after many different events from the assassination of Kennedy and emerging riots in the black ghettos after assassinations of both Robert Kennedy and Martin Luther King.

Furthermore people being against the Vietnam War, crime rates growing higher as well as the unemployment rates. Not just the USA, but also in UK the political and social landscape were in a crisis. The cynicism of noir just made sense for the people in the 60’s and 70’s.

When coming to the 80’s the neo noir differentiates the most of the other decades of noir.

The neon lights, clothes and the music, during the 80’s the neo noir tried out many new things while still combining those into the classic elements from film noir. These new elements could be considered coming from the advanced technology. Not only was the technology developing also what happened in the 80’s was the economic boom, also referred as the Reagan Boom or extreme capitalism. Not just US but nations around the world started to move to the laisse-faire capitalism system. In the US

the economic expansion and employment rate was the biggest in the nation’s history. When the global capitalism started its expansion in the 80’s it created a new wave of consumerism after the 50’s post war era. This is also what some of the 80’s neo noirs were viewing and criticism, consumerism in the contemporary culture at the time and the fact that what are you wearing and showing your status started to matter in this society.

In the 90’s the neo noir was leaving behind the style of the 80’s and were creating movies with more of the film noirs classic elements. After the long lasted Cold War, the Soviet Union’s dissolution, the mass mobilization, the rise of the Internet and the rising scepticism towards government lead the neo noir films of the 90’s reflect again the people’s uncertain and distrusting feelings. The neo noir movies became darker again after the 80’s decade.

The Internet kept growing which made it able for people to communicate with each other faster, the rise of the Internet also contributed globalization. Many events shook the whole world in the 2000’s like 9/11, the subprime mortgage crisis after the housing bubble collapsed, war on terror and the terrorist acts that occurred throughout the decade and wars in the Middle East. These events increased the people’s insecurity again and the neo noir movies since then have got even more twisted and darker. The fear and distrust in the 2010’s haven’t disappeared anywhere and is still present in the society’s minds after more incidents have happened like the Arab Spring, the Russia-Ukraine crisis, rise of Jihadism, Turkish purges, the growing cap between the rich and the poor.

For conclusion the neo noirs are like the film noirs showing the changes happening in the society that are currently creating our fears, paranoias and mistrust but are just refashioned to the current time. Including some of the main characteristics of classic film noir era, and of course always linked to the world of corruption, crime and cruelty.

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EVIDENCE OF REPERCUSSION IN PRESENT TIME IN FASHION The look that emerged in Film Noir classic era have created a specific style and look which is still today implemented in the fashion industry. Characteristic to the film noir look for women were low necklines or long slits, floppy hats, silk dresses,fur, black or red dresses, high heels, red lipstick mascara and wavy/curly hair. Holding a gun, a cigarette or both at the same time could be also essential. The clothes the women used would usually have an intention of gaining attraction or power. In film noir the clothing could also indicate betrayal or used for disguise. Furthermore men were always wearing suits, ties and hats and long trench coat.

This picture combines many different film noir elements.

First of all the neon lights which is coming from the 80’s neo noir decade. The peek-a-boo hairstyle which was made famous by Veronica Lake in the 40’s as well as the animal print shirt which is indicating femme fatale as well as the dark eye makeup.

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Blake Lively for Gucci perfume ad. Inspired by the Veronica Lake hairstyle, the sequin gown and open back completes the glamorous feminine look. Black and white giving the nostalgic and classic film noir element.

Keira Knightley wearing long black silk gloves and a black silk suit with a long neckline. The red lips and wavy hair completes this film noir styling.

Christina Aguilera on her Hurt album cover. Stylish and aesthetic inspired from Veronica Lake. Even the pose is exact copy of Veronica’s.

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Coco Rocha for Stylist Magazine September, 2013

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Lara Stone for Vogue Italia editorial Style Noir, November, 2009 17

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< Daria Werbowy for Vogue Paris September 2012: Le Noir Partie 4 The seductive femme fatale ‘‘look’’ embrased with the cat eye make up and dark lips. The fur jacket indicating the disguise and betrayal of a classic femme fatale character and showing skin to catch attention and show her power.

Arizona Muse in the campaign David Yurman. Cat eye makeup and seductive look combined with the peek-a-boo hairstyle.

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Lara Stone for Vogue Paris March 2014: The femme fatale issue. Lara Stone framing the film noir detective look, wearing a fedora, a trench coat and of course lighting up a cigarette.

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CONCLUSION Whether film noir is considered as a genre, subgenre, style, movement or a trend it has left a remarkable impression to our culture. The legacy of film noir keeps still living through neo noir movies which are reflecting to the subjects that are creating anxiety, fear and mistrust in our society today. Film noir has not only contributed in cinema through these decades. The evidence presented in this project also showcases the fact that the film noir and its aesthetic is continuing to influence fashion, music and popular culture. Furthermore it can be seen that film noir will be refashioned to the current time but will always try to carry some of the most iconic and relevant elements, not just from the classic film noir era but also from neo noirâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s different decades or even mix them up.

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