A Touch of By: Noorbanu Nimji
Table of Contents 3 Introduction 4 Menus 7 Glossary 9 Soups, Drinks, Chutneys & Raitas 19 Hors D’Oeuvres & Teatime Specials 37 Rice & Chapatis 47 Vegetable, Bean & Lentil Curries 57 Fish, Poultry & Meat Entrées 85 Sweets & Desserts 107 Index
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introduction I
ndian cooking as it is known today, whether Persian or Moghul derivation can trace its origins to the northern part of India. It spread from there, often carried by travelers who reached the great plains through the legendary Khyber Pass, and evolved according to the local food resources.
Books on Indian cooking abound. This book differs in that, although the origins of the recipes could still be traced to Northern India, the recipes changed with the immigration of the Ismailis to the shores of Africa in years past, when the Arabic influence was paramount. This added a new dimension to their culinary evolution.
“You could eat these foods in restaurants, but if you cook them at home, you have the added benefits of learning an art and introducing an exciting new fare to your guests! �
More recent travel and immigration to Canada, where plenty of meat and fresh vegetables are available and where an emphasis on the nutritional value of food is a watchword, has led to further changes in cooking style, so that a dish prepared from A Spicy Touch is the mirror of the culinary history of a people.
You could eat these foods in restaurants, but if you cook them at home you have the added benefits of learning an art and introducing an exciting new fare to your guests. It may even become the conversational piece of the party. Traditional dishes in an ever-changing pattern of evolution, in keeping with the tempo and taste of the times, are both nostalgic and refreshing. Talk of curry and Indian spices may conjure up an image of a flame-spewing dragon. This myth has no validity in modern cooking. The culprit in the pungency of the fare is the amount of hot pepper used. If more than necessary is added, it will naturally create a fire. The Indian cooking in this book is light and delightful and should not need a cooling system for an over-heated engine. The recipes in this book have found flavour in many Ismaili and other homes and are presented here so that you may share the traditions and developments of a time-honored Asian cuisine.
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Ingredients Glossary
Cardamom
AGAR AGAR (Chinese grass)- Agar Agar is a vegetable product and is used for
CITRIC ACID (limboo na pbool) - Citric acid is used instead of lemon juice. It
setting liquids without refrigeration.
can be easily purchased from an Indian grocery.
BURGHUL- Burghul is crushed wheat sometimes referred to as bulgar.t can be purchased from Lebanese specialty stores.
CUHKY LEAVES (limdho) - Curry leaves are like bay leaves, but much smaller. They are sold fresh or dry. Fresh can be kept frozen in a container unto used.
CARDAMOM “Seed of Paradise” (Elaychi)- A relative of the ginger plant,
DAALS (lentils) - Split beans are called daals (lentils). There are many different
cardamom is a small oval, green or white (bleached) ridged pod containing several small black seeds. Its culinary uses include desserts, pilaus, sweet rice dishes, desserts, cakes and cookies as well as meat and fish dishes. The whole pod, including the skin, is used. The cardamom with green pods is commonly used. It can be used with or without pods. Freshly ground cardamom with pods is used all through these recipes.
EDIBLE SILVER PAPER - Edible silver paper is used to garnish any sweet dish. It is available at Indian grocery stores. It is very delicate and should be bandied carefully and gently. FENUGREEK (methi) - Fenugreek are tiny yellow seeds. They are used In
special care should be taken to use to your personal taste.
pickles. Coarsely ground can be purchased from Indian grocery. They can also be grown and the leaves are used In special dishes, and leaves are called methi ni bhajl.
CINNAMON (tug) - Cinnamon has a pleasant, sweet taste and aroma. It can be purchased in sticks and powder form.
ENO (Eno’s Fruit Salt) - Eno Is a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and tartaric
CHILLI POWDER (lal chutney) - Chilli powders differ in strength. Therefore
CLOVES (laving) - Cloves are aromatic, and are used whole or in powder form. COCONUT CREAM - There are different kinds of coconut cream or powder, which can be purchased from Indian specialty stores. Fresh coconut can be used as well. Chisel out white flesh, cut flesh into small pieces and blend with a little water. Squeeze the pulp through a sieve and use the white liquid instead of ready cream or powder. This process may be repeated for weaker milks. The used flesh should be discarded.
CASSAVA (mogo) - Mogo is a tropical rootstock. It is also called Yucca or tapioca.
Cassava
kinds of lentils. This is a good source of protein.
acid.
Fenugreek
GARAM MASALA - A combination of spices which varies from cook to cook In spiciness and hotness, see recipe page 18. Commercial versions are available In Indian or Oriental food stores.
GARLIC (lasan) - Garlic, either fresh, powdered, dehydrated flakes, or paste form. Throughout this book, dehydrated flakes are used. Soak dehydrated garlic flakes in water for 2 hours, and then blend In food processor with the minimum amount of water necessary. This can be stored in refrigerator or freezer. Minimum amounts of garlic have been suggested in these recipes. GHEE (clarified butter) - The best-flavoured ghee is made from unsalted
CORIANDER (dhana) - This can be purchased in seeds, coarsely ground
butter. See recipe, page 18.
or powder form. Fresh coriander leaves (kothmir) are also sold in some supermarkets and specialty food stores. It is also called Chinese parsley or cilantro. Can be grown from seed.
GINGER (adu) - It Is sold as fresh root, dried, ready paste, and In cans. Through this book the cans are used. Discard the water and then blend In food processor with a little water. This can be stored In the refrigerator or freezer.
CUMIN (jeera) - This can be purchased in seed or powder form. Best ground in coffee grinder.
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Garam Masala
Ghee
Ingredients glossary
Ingredients glossary
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and is also known as channa. It Is very high In protein and Is gluten-free. It is widely used for making savoury and sweet dishes.
PAPRIKA POWDER - Paprika powder is not hot, as It Is made from bell peppers. It is used to give color and reduce the hot taste. Use Instead of chilli powder.
GUM ARBIC (gund) - Gund Is purchased In a crystallized form. When frying
PATRA (advi-na-bhajia) - Patra are ready, canned In India, and can be
gund, special care should be taken. If fried In clarified butter, make sure that there Is no water left, otherwise gum will not pop. It Is Important that gum (gund) pops up when fried and Is no longer hard or sticky.
purchased from Indian grocery store.
GRAM FLOUR (channa no atto) - This Is the flour made from black chickpeas,
Gram Flour
HOT PEPPER - A few varieties are available, fresh or In powder form.
sweet meats.
RICE - There are many varieties of rice: long grain, Basmati rice, patna,
They are differentiated by colour and strength. As seeds can be very hot, they may be removed. Prepare with care under cold running water, (use gloves If necessary), wash hands immediately afterwards as handling may cause stinging of the skin. Making a small slit In pepper before frying will keep pepper from erupting In oil.
American and more. For best results, the rice should be washed In :5 to 4 changes of water, then soaked for 10 to 20 minutes; longer soaking reduces the cooking time. Only the loose rice requires washing and soaking, the prepacked varieties can be prepared as the package directs.
JOGGERY (ghor) - Sold In Indian grocery stores. This Is the semisolid stage
SAFFRON (kesar) - Saffron Is the most expensive spice available and Is used
of sugar cane. It has a light yellow to dark orange colour, and the flavour of molasses.
vegetables and other dishes. Coarsely ground for pickles can be purchased from Indian grocery.
MASOOR (lentis) - They are brown In color. Split masoor are red in colour.
TURMERIC (haldi) - This Is only used In a savory dish to give colour. It has an
supermarkets and Lebanese grocery stores.
MUSTARD seeds (ral) - They are round black seeds used to flavour
NUTMEG (jalphal) - It has a pleasant smell and is used In sweets. OMUM (ajma) - Ajma are tiny seeds, sold In Indian grocery stores and are used for vegetable dishes.
PAPADUMS - A kind of flat crispy wafer which can be bought from Indian grocery stores, ready either to be broiled or deep-fried in oil.
Patra
for Its flavour and colour In Biryani, pilau, and sweets.
SUGAR SYRUP (chasni) - For various sweets different kinds of sugar syrup Is required. The strength Is measured by strings (tar). Boll sugar and water for few minutes and check by a drop between thumb and forefinger. Press and separate; If the syrup forms strings (tar) It Is called one string of tar. If two or more strings form, the syrup will be thicker. It can also be tested with a candy thermometer or by dropping a drop on a plate. The lighter strength syrup will spread and heavier will stand like a ball.
KATAIFI PASTRY (shredded dough) - This Is Lebanese pastry and Is sold In
Mustard Seeds
POPPY SEEDS (khas khas) - Poppy seeds are tiny seeds commonly used In
Saffron
antiseptic value. Salt and turmeric is used for sore throats and weak gums.
TAPIOCA STARCH - Is purchased from any leading supermarket, Chinese or Indian grocery stores.
WHEATLETS (soojl) - Wheatlets Is also known as cream of wheat and semolina.
Turmeric
YELLOW FOOD COLOUR - Sold In Indian groceries In powder form.
Papadums
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Ingredients glossary
Ingredients glossary
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Samosa Wrappers
Makes 24.
Instructions
Ingredients 1 1/2 c.
all purpose flour
2 tbsp.
white vinegar
1/2 tsp.
salt
1/4 c. + 3 tbsp
water
375 mL
Make a pliable dough with the first 4 ingredients.
30 mL 2mL
Knead well. Divide dough into 8 portions.
105 mL
On a generously floured board, roll each portion into a circle: 6 portions into 6” (15 cm) diameter; 2 portions into 1” (11 cm) diameter. Preparation Loose flour Cooking oil and brush
Begin with dough rolled flat.
Cut on these lines to make two samosas. Leave out extra sides.
Brush each of the pastry rounds with oil. Sprinkle with a little flour. Stack the rounds starting with 1” (11 cm) circle first and oiled sides facing; brush with oil and repeat the process, using all the circles and ending with the 1” (11 cm) round. Do not apply oil on the top. On a floured board roll the stack of rounds, turning over frequently, into 11” (21 (:m) diameter. Heat a griddle to 315°F (190°C) and using the rolling pin, lift the round onto the griddle, lower the heat to minimum and cook for 1 minute only. Turn over, start peeling and separate each round until all 8 rounds are separated. Stack these par-cooked rounds to keep them from drying. While still hot: trim 1/4” (0.5 cm) off 2 sides of the rounds. Cut into 3 equal strips. Trim to the shape shown on page 21 and keep covered in damp cloth until used. Can be frozen for over 3 months wrapped in aluminum foil. Thaw before using.
Place a lump of filling in one corner.
Fold
Fold again
Fold last flap over and paste down. Repeat with next piece of dough. .
Alternate Cooking: Bake on greased foil in the centre rack of the preheated oven at 500°F (2600C) for 3 to 4 minutes; remove and peel off the rounds. If hard to peel, bake again for 1 minute.
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Meat Samosas
Delicious snack or hors d’oeuvre. Makes 20-24.
Instructions
Ingredients 1 lb.
lean ground beef, chicken or turkey
1/2 tsp.
salt
2mL
1/2 tsp.
crushed ginger (see glossary)
2mL
1/2 tsp.
crushed garlic
2mL
2 tbsp.
lemon juice
1/2 tsp.
cumin powder
2mL
1/2 tsp.
crushed hot pepper to to taste
2mL
1/4 tsp.
chilli powder
1mL
1
spring onion, finely chopped
30mL
1 1/2 c. small onion, finely chopped 1 tbsp.
500g
Add salt, ginger, garlle, lemon juice, cumin, hot pepper and chllli powder. Continue cooking untll all the water has evaporated and the mixture is completely dry. Drain fat thoroughly from the mixture in colander and then drain again on kitchen towel.
375 mL
chopped coriander leaves
15mL
1/2 tsp.
Garam Masala (see glossary)
2mL
chopped hot peppers (optional)
When mixture Is cool add chopped onions, fresh coriander leaves and garam masala. Adjust salt and chopped hot peppers to taste.
Make paste by blending water and flour.
Paste: 2 tbsp.
all-purpose flour
30mL
3 tbsp.
water
45mL
3 tbsp.
water
45mL
3 c.
oil for deep·frying
Fold Samosas as shown in the diagram on the opposite page (see Samosa Pastry Preparation)
750mL
Cook ground beef on medium heat, stirring and breaking all lumps untll the colour of the meat starts to change.
Samosa Pastry (Pre-preparred - page 20)
For smooth crisp pastry, deep fry Samosas as follows. Deat all to 200°F (100°C). Place a few Samosas in oil, turn heat to medium and cook turning often untll golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Garnish with lemon wedges and serve hot. Can also be served with Tamarind Chutney. For prolonged frying, remove half of the hot oil from the wok and add more cold all and then fry additional samosas, or wait until the oil cools down. For best results never fry Samosas in oil that is too hot.
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Chicken Curry
Serves 4
Instructions
Ingredients 1 medium onion, sliced or chopped 4-6 tbsp. oil 60-90mL
Saute onions over medium heat until golden brown. Add chicken and saute for further 3-4 minutes.
2 1/4lbs. chicken pieces, skinned 1kg
1 tsp. crushed ginger 5mL 1/2 tsp. crushed garlic 2mL
Add tomatoes and tomato paste and all the spices, except garam masala and coriander leaves and cook until half done.
1/2 tsp. crushed hot pepper 2mL 1/2 tsp. coriander powder 2mL 1/2 tsp. cumin powder 2mL
Add potatoes, again cook for a few minutes and add hot water. Cook until chicken and potatoes are cooked.
1/4 tsp. tumeric powder 1mL 1/4 tsp. chilli powder, or to taste 1mL
Add garam masala and coriander leaves.
1 medium tomato, chopped 2 tsp. tomato paste 10mL
Serve with rice or Chapati (page 40).
6 small potatoes 2 cups hot water 500 mL
If serving with Chapati, a drier sauce is required so add less water.
1/2 tsp. garam masala 2mL 1 tbsp. coriander leaves 15mL
For stronger or milder cuny add or reduce spices to your personal taste. Variation: Palakh Chicken: same recipe as above with an addition of spinach but less water. The sauce has a very dry consistency. Chicken Masala: has a very thick sauce made with the basic cuny sauce plus: 1 tbsp. (15 mL) plain yogurt, 1 tbsp. (15 mL) lemon juice; 8 strands saffron. Garnish with hard-cooked eggs and serve with Parotha (page 43), or Pita bread. Chicken can be replaced by cooked beef, ground beef or cubed lamb. Because meat takes longer to cook it can be added before spices and cooked until tender or cooked meat can be used. For best results, curries can be cooked ahead of time and reheated thoroughly before serving.
A Touch of Spice can fill your home with the exotic aromas of faraway India, and delight your palate with flavours from subtle to sumptuous. From Biryani and Badam Pak, Samosas and Sev you are offered a full range of Indian cuisine from drinks and appetizers, through main course, to desserts and sweets. To help the uninitiated, the author includes a glossary, explanatory notes plus menu and serving suggestions. She has transformed her years of cooking and teaching into a very contemporary, usable cookbook. Historically, for Asian women cooking was one of the arts taught in the home, so for Noorbanu Ninyi, success depended greatly on her ability in the kitchen. She spent many years learning traditional Indian cooking from her mother, and was able to expand her skills and repertoire cooking Indian dishes in the luxury hotels her father owned in Kenya. She came to see that her contribution could be the modernization and clear presentation of this ever-evolving culinary tradition. After immigrating to Canada in 1974, she taught classes in Indian cooking and, along with the duties of home and family, set herself to the task of putting her years of practical experience with food into a publishable form. A Touch of Spice is the result of Noprbanu Ninyi’s lifelong romance with cooking.
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