dine

AKIRA BACK

233 N.E. Second Ave., Delray Beach; 561/739-1708 PARKING: Hotel valet, street and garage parking

HOURS:

Tues.-Thurs., 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.

PRICES:

$8- $160

WEBSITE:

akirabackdelray.com

Yellowtail Serrano

Wagyu short rib fried rice

Akira Back

Akira Back

The Ray’s trending new restaurant is living up to the hype

The Michelin Guide has taken Miami by storm, but we’re fortunate to have a chef right in our own backyard who has also achieved that star-studded accomplishment. Chef Akira Back’s Seoul restaurant DOSA earned a Michelin star a few years ago, and now he’s showcasing his talented take on Japanese cuisine at his namesake restaurant inside The Ray hotel.

An imposing door leads into a contemporary dining room that’s punctuated with pops of vivid colors. While the décor is minimalist, Back breathes life into it by incorporating his mother’s artwork into the mural that adorns the sushi counter, the plush banquettes and even the dishware. Massive windows flood the room with natural light (and make for great peoplewatching) while greenery suspends from the ceiling, lending the space a warm, lush feeling.

Born in Korea and reared in Colorado, Back blends his heritage with Japanese flavors and techniques he has mastered to deliver dishes that are unique to him. But his path didn’t always lead to the kitchen. Back was a professional snowboarder for years before he discovered his passion for cooking. Trading in his board for knives, Back now has 18 restaurants around the world in his portfolio.

The restaurant’s ambience is laid-back, and while the menu’s price points do lean toward upscale, there are options on both sides of the spectrum. But if you’re ready to splurge, order the $160 chef’s signature mystery box. We saw the smoke-exhaling coffret hit several tables around us, and I must say that the bites looked incredible.

The menu is divided into cold and hot starters followed by rolls, nigiri/sashimi, robata grill, mains and fried rice. Dishes are made to be shared (even the entrées), and our waiter suggested about four to six plates per couple. We had six and it was plenty. We started with the AB Tuna Pizza ($28) and Yellowtail Serrano ($28). While the former is a chef specialty— a crunchy, slim tortilla topped with tuna and white truffle oil—it was the yellowtail that won us over. Floating in citrus soy, the paper-thin slices topped with serrano salsa and a petite slice of the pepper delivered a delicate bite that was not overpowered by one ingredient. For the mains, we opted for the Hot Mess roll ($25), Seared Halibut ($42) and Wagyu Short Rib Fried Rice ($31). The roll hit the table, and I was immediately struck by the tuna’s gorgeous spectrum of pinks as it overflowed from the crab tempura wrapped in rice paper (this roll is for you if you don’t like the customary seaweed). It’s topped with a spicy ponzu aioli, but the heat doesn’t linger; it simply awakens the palate. The halibut—pearly white, tender and cut into a perfect square—sits in a soy beurre blanc that I could have easily eaten by the spoonChocolate ful. Butter really does make everything better. We in a cup enjoyed that with a side of the fried rice, which I smelled even before it arrived. It was garlicky and perfectly cooked with the right amount of seared grains; I had just hoped for a bit more meat. We finished the meal with a yummy Chocolate in a Cup ($14)—layered Nutella and vanilla ice cream in a small cup. For a hotel restaurant that had quite the hype surrounding its arrival, I must say the meticulous service and rich flavors we encountered throughout the menu elevated our evening and made us excited to return.