Cooking with Squash

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how to KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL

LEAD IMAGE BY PETER CHOU, FOOD STYLING BY MARILYN DUNPHY, PROP STYLING BY MARTINE BLACKHURST, PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNE TSAKOS, FOOD STYLING BY MARIANNE WREN, PROP STYLING BY MADELEINE JOHARI, HAND MODEL JENNIFER MACKENZIE, OTHER IMAGES ISTOCKPHOTO

HOW TO PICK, PREPARE & COOK

Squash

Don’t let its tough exterior fool you. Deep down, winter squash yields sweet and delicious f lesh just waiting to be discovered. BY JESSIE SHAFER If you’re more inclined to make an autumn centerpiece out of hard squash than eat it, you’re not alone. Cutting into the rough and bumpy outer shell can be intimidating, but that protective layer is actually a good thing. Thick-walled “winter” squash are harvested in the fall and can last up to six months without much special storage. Irregular shapes and a subtly colored palate of stripes, dots and blemishes are

some of the distinguishing traits of the squash family, which is made up of more than 100 unique members – no two are exactly alike. However, only a few types are well known and readily available: acorn, buttercup, butternut, hubbard and spaghetti squash. Just like pumpkins, squash are native to Central America and part of the gourd family. They’re the fruit of ground-covering

What You’ll Need: • Heavy-duty vegetable peeler •S harp chef’s or Santoku knife • Large spoon • Rimmed baking sheet • Heavy-duty foil • Fork or skewer • Olive oil & salt

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how to KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL How to prep and cook: Butternut Squash vine plants that develop to maturity before they’re picked, forming a hard rind surrounding dozens of tough seeds. But, unlike most common pumpkins, squash contain a smaller seed cavity and far more edible flesh. Zucchini, yellow squash and patty pans are also part of the squash family. They are harvested in the summer while still young and don’t develop a thick rind. For this reason, summer squash don’t last as long as winter squash and require just a short cooking time. Undoubtedly a super-nutritious food choice, squash is an especially good source of fiber and beta-carotene, which may help protect you from the development of inflammation, heart disease and some cancers. The flesh of most squash is slightly sweet and can easily be incorporated into dishes ranging from soups and pasta to custards and pies. Getting past the rough exterior is truly worth a little extra effort, and you’ll find the tasty and healthy rewards to be far more than skin deep.

1. Butternut is the easiest type of squash to peel before cooking because of its thin, smooth skin. Using a heavy-duty vegetable peeler, peel strips of skin from squash away from your body.

2. Cut ½ inch off the top and bottom of squash, then slice squash in half lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

3. Dice squash into uniform-size pieces.

4. Toss squash pieces with a little olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt. Spread pieces in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a 425°F oven until pieces are tender (easily pierced with a fork), 25 to 35 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes.

How to prep and cook: Acorn Squash

Butternut Squash Risotto Serves 4. Makes about 6 cups. Hands-on time: 45 minutes. Total time: 1 hour.

INGREDIENTS: • 3 cups peeled, diced fresh butternut squash

Squash the confusion

Part of the uncertainty with squash may be the fact that there are so many ways to prepare it. Squash can be cooked whole, in halves, in pieces or grated. It can be roasted, steamed, boiled, microwaved or stuffed. Let your recipe determine the best way to prepare the squash. COOKED WHOLE: Easiest method for most small squash. Cut off top 1 inch of stem end before cooking (baking is usually the best method).

• Extra-virgin olive oil or olive oil cooking spray • Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste

1. Cut about ½ inch off the bottom end of the squash. This will make it easier to peel after baking and provides a flat edge for safer and easier cutting. (If stem is still attached to other end of squash, break it off.)

2. Position squash so it sits on flat end. Slice straight down through stem end to cut squash in half.

How to prep and cook: Spaghetti Squash

3. Scoop out seeds, rub a little olive oil over cut sides of squash and sprinkle with sea salt. Place halves cut-side-down on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake in a 400°F oven until flesh is tender, 30 to 40 minutes. To test squash for doneness, stick a fork in the squash. If the fork meets just a little resistance, squash is good consistency for peeling and dicing. If fork slides easily in and out with no resistance, squash is good consistency for eating from shell, mashing or puréeing.

4. To peel, set squash aside on baking sheet until cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Pull off strips of skin starting at the cut end.

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• ½ cup onion, diced • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil • 8 oz mushrooms, sliced (2 cups) • 1 tbsp garlic, minced • 1 cup arborio rice • 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves • 1 tbsp fresh sage, minced

OOKED IN HALVES OR LARGE C PIECES: Easiest method for most larger squash, because cutting into pieces reduces cooking time. Best for recipes where squash will be served as halves or pieces, mashed, scooped out of shells or puréed. EELED AND DICED BEFORE P COOKING: Best for recipes where shape and size of diced squash needs be retained (not mashed or puréed), such as adding to stews, casseroles, pastas, salads or the Butternut Squash Risotto recipe on page 29.

• 4 cups low-sodium organic chicken broth

• ½ cup fresh or frozen peas (thawed if frozen) • ¼ cup shredded fontina or Parmesan cheese • 2 tbsp chopped walnuts, toasted

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Hold squash firmly with 1 hand. Use a metal skewer or fork to poke holes over entire surface of squash to prevent it from bursting during baking. Place squash on a rimmed baking sheet and bake in oven at 400°F for 30 to 45 minutes, until soft.

2. When squash is cool enough to handle, cut it in half lengthwise.

3. Scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

4. Scrape the flesh of the squash with a fork in a grating and twirling motion to shred the flesh and pull it away from the skin. Scoop shredded flesh onto a serving dish and finish as desired: Toss with extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper or serve with a clean sauce of choice.

ONE: Preheat oven to 425º F. Toss squash with a little oil or mist with cooking spray; season with salt and pepper. Spread squash in an even layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until tender, about 25 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes. Set squash aside. TWO: Meanwhile, bring broth to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat; keep warm.

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how to KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL Recipe continued from page 29 THREE: While broth is heating, sauté onion

in 1 tbsp oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat for 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté until they start to soften, 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for 1 minute more. Add rice and stir to coat with oil and vegetables. FOUR: Add ½ cup warm broth; simmer and stir with a wooden spoon until liquid evaporates, about 2 minutes. Stir in another ½ cup warm broth; simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is almost all evaporated. Continue adding broth in ½-cup increments, adding more only after previous addition has been absorbed. Taste rice after three-quarters of the broth has been added. Rice is done when it’s tender but still slightly firm and white in the very center (not chalky). Continue adding broth until only ½ cup remains. FIVE: Add thyme, sage, peas and cheese to pan with last ½ cup broth; stir until cheese melts, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat before all liquid is absorbed. Gently fold in cooked squash and walnuts. Season risotto with salt and pepper. Garnish with additional thyme, if desired, and serve warm.

Nutrients per 1½-cup serving: Calories: 359, Total Fat: 9 g, Sat. Fat: 2.5 g, Monounsaturated Fat: 4 g, Polyunsaturated Fat: 2.5 g, Carbs: 60 g, Fiber: 6 g, Sugars: 4 g, Protein: 14 g, Sodium: 163 mg, Cholesterol: 8 mg

Nutritional Bonus: The bright orange and deep yellow hue of the flesh of winter squash is an indication that it’s an excellent source of phytonutrients – and, generally, the deeper and darker the color, the more nutrients it contains. Squash is an excellent source of vitamin A as well as a very good source of vitamin C, fiber, manganese and potassium. It also packs a good punch of vitamin B 6 , folate and niacin. This is good news as the weather begins to turn and nutrient-dense foods can sometimes be hard to find.

Did You Know? The seeds of most winter squash can be roasted just like pumpkin seeds. Wash and dry seeds thoroughly, toss with a little olive oil and desired seasonings, then roast on a baking sheet in a 350 ºF oven for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring once or twice.

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Prep and prepare any squash tonight Start experimenting with squash. Use our guide to select your type of squash, prep method and cooking technique. You can cook up a different squash every time!

Acorn

Banana

Buttercup

Butternut

Cut in half crosswise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 30-40 minutes

Sometimes sold in pieces Bake or microwave 400 º F, 35-45 minutes

Cut in half crosswise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 35-45 minutes

Cut in half lengthwise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 30-40 minutes

Cut into large cubes, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

Cut into wedges, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 400 º F, 25-35 minutes

Cut in half lengthwise, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

Hubbard

Kabocha

Spaghetti

Sometimes sold in pieces Bake or microwave 400 º F, 35-45 minutes

Cut in half crosswise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 35-45 minutes

Pierce holes in whole squash Bake or microwave 400 º F, 45 minutes

Cut into large wedges, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

Cut into large pieces, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

Cut in half lengthwise Bake, microwave or boil 400 º F, 35-45 minutes

Moist & tender, slightly nutty

Cut into rings Bake or grill 400 º F, about 30 minutes Cut into wedges, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

Creamy & sweet, similar to butternut

Moist, sweet flesh, can be grainy

Delicata

Tender, similar to sweet potatoes & corn Cut in half lengthwise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 30-40 minutes

Creamy & starchy texture, very sweet

Deep, rich & sweet flavor, can get dry

Creamy texture, sweet & nutty

Mild flavor, slightly nutty

Selection: Look for a squash that is heavy C for its size with a hard skin and few or no

Sweet Dumpling Mildly sweet, very tender

Cut 1 inch off top, cook whole Bake, steam, boil or simmer 400 º F, 30-40 minutes Cut in half crosswise Bake or microwave 400 º F, 25-35 minutes

Turban

Sweet, hazelnutlike flavor Cut in half lengthwise Bake, microwave or boil 400 º F, 35-45 minutes Cut into large pieces, peel & dice Bake, steam, boil or simmer 425º F, 25-35 minutes

blemishes. If a squash feels light, it is probably dried out and the flesh will be fibrous. ≈ To bake unpeeled halves, scoop out seeds and coat cut sides of halves with a little olive oil; sprinkle with salt. Place halves cut-sidedown on a foil-lined baking sheet. Bake until a fork can be easily pierced through the squash flesh, 35-55 minutes depending on the density and size of the squash. ºTemp and time given is for baking method only. Times may vary so check squash for doneness by sticking a fork in the flesh after 20 minutes, then check every 5 minutes until squash reaches desired texture and degree of doneness.


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