Spring 2015
Moda goes
BARE wardrobe, body, attitude.
MODA CHLOE KARASKIEWICZ Editor-in-Chief Deputy Editor Caroline Kreul Creative Director Mekea Larson Art Director Jesse Tovar Photography Director Roberto Leon Fashion Editor Paige Schultz Lifestyle Editor Jennifer Anderson Social Editor Barbara Gonzalez Arts Editor Brontё Mansfield Men’s Editor Andrew Connor Financial Director Alison Zimmerman Fashion Editorial Assistant Marissa Monett Lifestyle Editorial Assistant Allie Jeka Contributing Writers Maya Campbell, Paige Cero, Kelsey Daykin, Victoria Fok, Caleb Foust, Jake Hollister, Allie Jeka, Emma Leuman, Brontё Mansfield, Madalyn Manzeck, Phebe Myers, Meg Rotter, Lanni Solochek, Jourden Sürrí & Conrad Wight Photographers Halie Conyers, Margaret Durrow, Alexandra Follino, Caleb Foust, Roberto Leon, Phebe Myers, Bailey Salamanca, Jourden Sürrí, Leyan Xu & Thomas Yonash Models Teniesha Broadway, Nicole Cimbalnik, Sheila Ghanian, Carol Koshick, Lauren Knudsen, Emma Leuman, Helena Miller & Oliver Whitting WUD Publications Committee Director Katie Van Dam WUD Publications Committee Advisor Jim Rogers WUD President Sarah Bergman With greatful appreciation to: The Wisconsin Union Directorate Jennifer Farley, Wisconsin Union Marketing Bill Mulligan, WUD Vice President of Program Administration
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MODA SPRING 2015 FASHION
31 SUITS THAT SUIT YOU
‘Tis the swimsuit season! Find your best fit in our style guide.
38 YOUR STYLE, ANYWHERE
Three students with distinctly different styles take on the thrift store.
40 STYLE Q&A
Resident styling guru Phebe Myers tackles unique and personal styling questions from you.
42 TAKING THE LUXE OUT OF LUXURY
From actual royalty to American royalty, luxury brands are rapidly changing to reach new markets.
LIFESTYLE 7 QUICK CUISINE
Meal planning for the time and money-strapped collegiate.
9 I’M NOT A VICTIM. I’M A SURVIVOR. A contributor shares their survival story and life after sexual assault.
11 THE 411 ON THE NEW APPLE DIET Your wallet may be getting the skinny as Apple introduces Apple Pay.
12 DITCHING BARRIER METHODS
The key issues when deciding to go bare with your partner. OUTTAKE FROM “ELEMENTAL,” PG. 32 4 modamadison.com / Spring 2015
ARTS
MEN’S
Moda’s exclusive interview with rising star Sophia Luchianni.
Your guide to basic sewing and alterations.
29 NOT EVERYBODY’S FLAVOR 50 BLANK SPACE
20 IN STITCHES
22 SIMPLE SUMMER
The essential summer wardrobe for men.
What’s really behind those white gallery walls?
24 JOGGERS: SARTORIAL LEGWEAR
The new menswear trend that blends comfort and style.
SOCIAL
14 SO YOU WANT A JOB
Face the perils of internships and post-grad employment with these insider tips.
15 RETHINKING NUDE
When nude can be every shade we are, who will insist that society stop equating it with beige?
25 MY ART, MY SELF
A bold new take on the nude form in American society, au naturale.
FEATURED 16 TIMELESS BEAUTY
Screen sirens of the Golden Age come to life in our looks inspired by vintage beauty icons.
32 ELEMENTAL
Piles of naturally-derived, bohemian baubles inspire this season’s jeweled looks.
44 INTO THE SUN
Our warm-weather fashion picks are here!
FASHION EDITORIAL ASSISTANT MARISSA MONETT TOUCHES UP MODEL HELENA’S LIPSTICK FOR “INTO THE SUN” (PG. 44)
on the COVER Helena Miller photographed by Roberto Leon Dress, Pitaya Earrings, model’s own Hair and makeup by Jen Anderson
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FROM THE EDITOR
UNDERNEATH
IT ALL W
hat do we really feel when we’re naked? Everything. What we feel becomes more extreme: beautiful not pretty, empowered more than confident, authentic instead of masked. We place ourselves in a position of absolute vulnerability—to ourselves, to someone else, to the world. The beauty of bare is that it doesn’t mean one thing. A wallet goes empty when electronic payments take over the spending sphere and white gallery walls have a story to their starkness. Our summer wardrobes can, and perhaps should, be stocked with only the bare essentials—though after seeing our collection of natural baubles, you might just change your mind. And we share our naked bodies with our partners, entrusting to them, for however long, a part of us. Offering your truest self to the world so often meets with rejection and so, to go bare, to cast away what restricts our movement, our minds, our lives, takes courage. This is precisely what our writers have done. In an effort to bring a substantive voice to the table, we have carefully curated the following articles to highlight issues that are as intriguing as they are relevant. Of our selections, the barest of them all is an exploration of the self and the identity we tease out from the world’s chaos. This journey is courageously undertaken by one of our contributors in a tour de force photo story, which explores their muse and artistic vision. Together, these pieces inspire us to examine our world through the lens the writers provide. How will we adapt to the ever changing landscape, how will we design our lives? Perhaps the most intimate we can be is with ourselves: acknowledging what we feel and allowing it become a part of who we are.
Chloe 6 modamadison.com / Spring 2015
Quick Cuisine:
A GuIDE To MeaL PLANNING Nothing merits a self-high-five like reaching into the fridge and finding a homemade meal—ready to eat in under a minute—that you already made! By Allie Jeka, photographed by Halie Conyers
G
reatly relieve stress and make your life easier by planning your meals ahead of time. They will be ready to go when cooking is the last thing you feel like doing. Making food in bulk and having meals on hand in lieu of grabbing fast food on your way home benefits your mind, body and wallet with a whole host of short and long-term benefits. Spend an hour planning at the beginning of the week before classes start so that when it’s late on a Wednesday and you’ve finally dragged yourself home from a full day of class and work, all you have to do is hit some buttons on the microwave. It can be tedious at first to spend your Sunday afternoon cooking, but you’ll thank yourself later while you’re making and devouring these delicious homemade meals in the same time it would take you to whip up a TV dinner. Each recipe includes a difficulty level, but all of these meals are simple enough for a typical college student with basic cooking skills and limited kitchen supplies.
BREAKFAST
BANANA BREAD Difficulty: MEDIUM RARE Start your Sunday (cooking) funday by making banana bread, so it can bake while you are prepping the rest of your meals. · Preheat oven to 350 degrees · Mix ¾ cup room temperature butter with 1½ cups of sugar · Mix in 2 eggs · Add 1¼ tablespoons milk, 3 mashed, ripened bananas, 2 cups flour, and 1 teaspoon baking soda. · Mix until well combined · Lightly grease a loaf pan and fill about ¾ full · Bake for 45-50 minutes
YOGURT PARFAIT Difficulty: EASY AS PIE These yogurt parfaits are nutritious, portable breakfasts that can be stored in the fridge for up to three days.
· In a bowl, mix 6 oz. Greek yogurt, 1/3 cup oats, 1 teaspoon chia seeds, and 2 tablespoons milk · Use a spoon to dollop half of this mixture into a mason jar. Add a layer of frozen fruits (½ cup) of your choice and the remaining yogurt mixture · Top with another ½ cup of fruit, cover and refrigerate
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LUNCH
Strawberry almond summer salad Difficulty: MEDIUM RARE This sweet, colorful, delicious salad is perfect for celebrating the start of summer. Make the dressing and almonds ahead of time; refrigerate the dressing and store the almonds in an air-tight container. DRESSING: · In a small pan over medium heat, stir together ¼ cup vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons white vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, and ¼ teaspoon salt · Remove from heat and mix in ¼ teaspoon almond extract · Put the dressing in an air-tight container and refrigerate
ALMOND TOPPING: · In a small frying pan over medium heat, combine ½ cup sliced almonds with 1 tablespoon sugar · Stir constantly, until the sugar has dissolved and completely coated the almonds · Remove from heat and store at room temperature in an air-tight container WHEN YOU ARE READY TO EAT: · Fill a salad bowl with fresh spinach, top with ½ cup sliced strawberries, toasted almonds, and dressing to taste
MASON JAR SALAD Difficulty: EASY AS PIE This gorgeous, healthy salad can be stored in the fridge overnight, and makes an easily, portable lunch.
· Add your desired amount of balsamic dressing to the bottom of a large mason jar · Next, chop cucumbers and tomatoes, toss and add to jar · Add a large handful of spinach · Top with pistachios and diced dried apricots · Cover and refrigerate · When you’re ready to eat the salad, simply shake up the jar to spread the dressing!
CREAMY SPINACH TORTELLINI
DINNER
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Difficulty: HARD BOILED This pasta dish incorporates both comfort food and vegetables in a delicious meal that will leave you with plenty of leftovers to reheat during the week. · Bring a large pot of water to a boil · Begin prepping ingredients for your sauce. Chop ½ cup onion, 1 tomato, and ¼ cup fresh basil. Mince 3 cloves of garlic, and grate ¼ cup parmesan cheese, and set the ingredients aside · Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat · Add 19 oz frozen cheese tortellini to the pot of boiling water, and set a timer for the cook time instructed on the tortellini package · Add the onion and garlic to the skillet, and cook for 4 minutes, stirring occasionally · Next, add 9 oz frozen chopped spinach, thawed · Add the tomato and basil to the skillet, and season with salt and pepper · Cook the skillet mixture for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check on your tortellini as they are usually done cooking about this time · Add the cheese and 1 cup heavy cream; cook until the sauce starts to boil · Reduce the skillet heat to low and stir in the tortellini. Cook 3 more minutes.
I’M NOT A VICTIM.
Sexual assault gave me a choice: do I let it define my life, or do I fight? Written by H.K.J. Photographed by Alexandra Folino
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rowing up, we’re constantly taught about the threat of sexual assault. Far too many women walking at night fear the stranger behind them and plan what they will do if attacked on the street. Through all the many classes and stories that circulate, many women tend to think, “Oh, that’s horrible. But it won’t happen to me.” And that’s what I thought, too…until it did happen to me. I knew him. I didn’t know him that well. In fact, he was just an acquaintance. We had been out drinking and I wasn’t in the best state. When the two of us got separated from a group, that’s when it happened.
From that moment on, my life completely changed. I fell apart. I didn’t want to be in my own skin and I was disgusted being in my own body. I had never felt more violated in my entire life and I stayed in bed where I knew I would be safe. The first time I went out to a store, I was terrified of every single male I came across. The thought that I might see my attacker again made me sick to my stomach. All I wanted to do was crawl under my comforter with Netflix and stay there forever. On top of the terror, disgust and anxiety I dealt with, I also had the investigations into the case, both by the school and the police. People kept asking me more questions about the assault: intrusive, personal questions. I was forced to relive the event over and over again,
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I’M A SURVIVOR. through each horrific detail that I still wish I could have prevented. But the thing is, I couldn’t. Sitting around and crying wasn’t going to help, so I did something. I wasn’t going to let an evil person take advantage of me and take my life away. I took charge and took my life back. The day after the assault happened, my friend sent me a screenshot of a Yik Yak. Someone had read about my assault on WiscAlert and responded, saying that they had been in a similar situation. They said they knew how horrible I felt and they promised me that it would get better. The post got hundreds of up-votes. I was getting support from hundreds of anonymous people who I didn’t even know.
“I got back out there and faced my fears. Nothing interesting is going to happen if you stay locked in your room.” The first step in my healing process was to get help. I began weekly meetings with someone from End Violence on Campus (EVOC) to talk about what happened, my life and basically anything I was stressed out about. My counselor helped me realize that what happened was not my fault; there are horrible people in the world and I just had some awful luck. Having support is key to getting through this. Thankfully, I had some incredible friends and family who helped me along the way. Finding that love and support inspired me to begin healing myself.
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I got back out there and faced my fears. Nothing interesting is going to happen if you stay locked in your room. Sure, I got caught up on my favorite TV shows, but I’ve always been an overly ambitious person and that wasn’t enough for me. I began to spend more time with my close friends and family and found myself laughing again with my roommates. Each day I felt a little bit better and a little bit stronger. Right after the assault happened, I thought about pulling the plug on a trip I previously planned to New York City. The trip seemed terrifying, but I went anyway. It made me realize that I was really, truly happy again. That was the first time I started becoming comfortable. Soon, I began to dream again. I started planning future trips, decided to study abroad and worked towards my future. When I visited Rockefeller Center in New York, I began dreaming of moving to New York and writing for an NBC sitcom. As I grew more excited about my future, I thought less about the past. Finally, I learned how to trust again. After my assault, I was convinced I would never be comfortable around a man again. I worried that I would never trust anyone enough to be in a relationship. But as I grew stronger, I met someone I did trust. Someone who makes me happier than I could have ever imagined. It takes time to trust and date again, but when you find someone worth trusting, you can’t let fear stop you. Sexual assault is a traumatic event to endure. But, as I’ve learned, it shouldn’t define your life. What you decide to do about it is what defines your life. I’m not a victim, I’m a survivor. Anyone out there who has gone through the same thing, or is going through it, I am here to say that it does get better. Be strong, be you and power through with your hopes and dreams. I’m stronger and happier now than even before, and you can be, too.
the 411 on the Apple
A NEW ALTERNATIVE TO CASH AND CARDS PROVIDES CUSTOMERS WITH A POTENTIALLY RISKY FORM OF PAYMENT.
E
ight years ago, Apple brought us the iPhone. Since then, it has become a crucial extension of ourselves. We fear that we may drop or misplace it and lose the connections and information that we access daily. Last year, Apple shook our relationship with our phones by announcing Apple Pay. With all the excitement, we haven’t yet taken a step back to ask, “What will paying from our phones mean for the livelihood of our wallets?”
APPLE BECKONS US
According to Jordan McKee, an analyst at 451 Research, “What Apple has started... amounts to merely a credit card surrogate on a device. Consumers will have no compelling reason to ditch...credit cards that work quite well.” iPhone users are naturally susceptible to being early adopters of Apple Pay. They spend more time using mobile applications compared to android users, suggesting they are also more engaged with their phones. According to Forbes, they’re also the ideal demographic for mobile payments because iPhone users are generally more affluent than Android users. This suggests they’re likely to spend more on retail and ecommerce transactions.
WHAT WILL WE BUY?
As of right now, Apple Pay adoption occurs in fast food and grocery sectors rather than on bigger ticket items, like
luxury and furniture. While a larger number of small purchase stores are offering Apple Pay, it’s up in the air as to whether Apple Pay will be as successful for higher expense formats. Despite this uncertainty, Business Insider predicts mobile payments to become about 15 percent of total U.S. payment volume in four years. Apply Pay will become an increasingly substantial way for us to pay, but it is unlikely that we’ll be buying a new couch via our phones. What’s worrisome to our financial health is the amount that can be spent in small ticket item stores. Jean Chatzky, the financial editor for NBC Today, sees a danger for millennials spending more when we don’t use cash. Research shows more money is spent when using credit cards because they don’t signal the subtraction of money: when we use cash we see it disappear.
YOUR MONEY’S SECURITY
Apple Pay is designed to communicate limited information. According to Apple, Apple Pay “assigns, encrypts and securely stores a unique Device Account Number in a dedicated chip in iPhone, iPad, and Apple Watch,” which keeps the credit or debit card numbers from ever being shared with merchants. But as they do this, Apple also only keeps the last few transactions available for the user to see, which might make it harder for users to manage finances. Andrew Cero, a cyber-security specialist, said Apple Pay could be less risky than a credit card, but
diet
By Paige Cero Illustrated by Leyan Xu
“at least your credit card is protected by policies that reimburse you for fraudulent charges and identity theft. It will only be momentarily safer until people find ways to abuse it, which they absolutely will.” A study conducted by Lifelock, an identity protection company, found consumers see data breaches as common, and don’t know how to prevent data breach or what to do if it happens to them. According to CounterTack’s vice president of security strategy, Tom Bain, this is because “users have a blind trust in applications and just expect that security measures are taken to protect them. [But] In just a six-month span this year, mobile malware attacks have increased [by six times] globally.”
TO APPLE DIET, OR NOT?
With the increased presence, convenience and strong desire to drop our wallets, consumers face the question: to Apple Pay or to not? As it stands, Apple Pay provides cutting edge security and privacy benefits, but it’s also a matter of time before these methods are hacked. From a psychological standpoint, Apple Pay has the power to affect how much you spend. Because they work in an addition system rather than subtraction, there is no visual decline in the amount of money you have to spend, which makes falling into debt easy. With an unforeseeable future, it’s debatable whether or not we want to go skinny with the Apple diet. modamadison.com / Spring 2015 11
ditching Barrier methods: Sex without protection is often stigmatized as dirty and irresponsible, but we are about to give you the naked truth. By Maya Campbell Photographed by Jourden Sürrí
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ost of us have been here: hot in a moment of passion and steadily making our way through foreplay when all is halted to whip out the infamous barrier method. “Don’t be silly, wrap your willy.” I’m sure we’ve all heard it before. For many of us, conversations about sex and contraceptives began early and came with a plethora of ridiculous jingles and rhymes. We have easy information available to us about using birth control and fluid barriers to prevent pregnancy as well as the spread of STIs. What we don’t often hear, however, is how to discuss the process of losing barrier methods of protection with one’s partner/s. The accepted term for this is becoming “fluid bound.” While those words don’t trigger sexy thoughts, they provide language for the transaction between two or more bodies. Without barrier methods of sexual protection, we allow ourselves to trade various bodily fluids with our partners, which can be and scary, but it is also beneficial in various ways.
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Forgoing condoms and sex dams with your partner goes beyond reducing the time and keeping the energy between foreplay-to-intercourse transitions. Condoms and sex dams are in fact desensitizing to many people. “It feels different,” or, “it is desensitizing,” is not just a myth or a lie that a teenage boy tells in “what not to do” scenarios. Many find that using these barrier methods makes it difficult to have a pleasurable experience and can even cause discomfort. There is also an emotional aspect to becoming fluid bonded with another person, or if in a polyamorous relationship, other people. Since there is quite a bit of danger in forgoing barrier methods, the absence of them infers and creates an environment of trust and safety. In no way is this a call for the abandonment of condoms and other barrier methods. Instead, it is a step forward in demystifying what is generally considered to be ‘safe’ or ‘unsafe’ sex. The primary distinction between safe and unsafe within the context of this conversation is not the use of condoms or meticulous application of sex dams, but rather something less sexually charged or associated: communication. Communicating about sex and sexual expectations is difficult. It’s hard to feel comfortable having a dialogue about something that is guarded and often considered to be taboo. There are specific steps to take or consider when making your way to a fluid-bonded sexual relationship with your partner/s more attainable. First, you and your partner/s should have a conversation about it, which should not only include the consent of all parties, but also about establishing guidelines for the relationship. Often times, with STIs as a looming threat, this means commitment to an exclusive sexual relationship. Secondly, knowing each other’s STI status is an extremely important step in trust building and preventing the spread of STIs. Both health professionals and UW-Madison’s Sex Out Loud program on campus suggest that all parties, be it a monogamous or polyamorous relationship, get tested once every six months to a year or 3-6 months if sexual activity with outside parties is consented upon. If the relationship is heterosexual, be sure to discuss pregnancy and forms of birth control of all types. Of course, it should always be noted that there is a .1% chance of getting pregnant while on the pill (and using it correctly) or a .6-2% chance while using hormonal birth control. The pullout method when done correctly can still leave a 4% chance of pregnancy and a terrifying 27% if not done correctly. Finally, though many might forget, using lubricant is of the utmost importance, especially when having anal sex.
In a society in which we privilege conversations about using barrier methods in our sexual education, it is refreshing to have more information. As we discovered, Coach Carr was wrong. If we have sex, we will not all get pregnant and die, so it is also important to demystify what we call “unsafe sex.” Always remember that it is not the lack of protection that makes sex unsafe with your partner/s, but the absence of good, clear communication. On that note, go forth and unwrap responsibly. Editor’s Note: As stated, this article does not advocate the discontinuation of barrier methods or other forms of STD/ STI protection and pregnancy prevention, but rather seeks to destigmatize and normalize the discussion of partner communication surrounding barrier method use or disuse.
“the primary distinction between safe and unsafe within the context of this conversation is not the use of condoms or meticulous application of sex dams, but rather something less sexually charged or associated: communication.”
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photo courtesey of workinentertainment.com
SO YOU WANT A JOB By Lanni Solocheck, Arts Writer
The elusive job hunt is top-of-themind for most college students. To help you through the process, Moda spoke with some experts in the hiring and advising industry to get you the best tips, tricks and reminders for your process.
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et’s start from the very beginning: résumés. A résumé, also sometimes called a CV (curriculum vitae), is a list of your work, volunteer and educational experience. It should include your general skills, your contact information and your experience separated appropriately and listed chronologically, most recent to least recent.
“Be very clear on what the company cares about and what they want, and put yourself in their shoes,” she says. “[Be] able to speak that language when you’re going through the application and customize it to have everything you do be very relevant to what they’re looking for.” Madison Magazine Managing Editor Katie Vaughn gives three primary tips if you land an interview: dress the part, be familiar with the company and show you care. “Do your research beforehand…do your homework on who they are, who their clients are and the type of work they do,” she says. “Act like you want the job…I’m always surprised by how few people seem excited about the job that they’re applying for. If you’re not excited for the interview, why would you be excited about having the job?” During the job hunt, it’s important not to settle. When deciding whether or not to apply for a position, consider the implications of taking that job. Specificity is key to ensuring your eventual contentness with your work.
November Papaleo, a mentoring professional, encourages students to use LinkedIn as a CV to ensure you don’t forget any relevant experience when customizing a resume for a posting. “One piece [of creating a resume] is a matter of tracking and…capturing a complete view of what you’ve done,” she says. “The second piece is pulling out the threads of commonality in each position.”
Papaleo suggests that job seekers use a “four word method” to narrow their job search.“Once you’ve done all the research and you know what keywords to be using, you’ll have your own four keywords that show up in positions that [you] want,” she says. “What was a paragraph [becomes] four words based on the titles of jobs that incorporate all of those things.”
At this point, we need to talk about possibly the largest stressor of job applications: the cover letter. The cover letter is often the toughest piece of the application process because there is no one way to write it. Every position will ask for different commentary in a cover letter, and every industry has different standards and expectations.
Job hunting is time consuming, often messy and confusing, especially for those just entering the full-time workforce post-graduation. Papaleo explains that creating your professional image is a process that will change as you do. But, she says, there is a point that you must take off from, and it starts with the motivation to develop.
Lauren Hodgson, senior talent tractor beam manager for InfusionSoft in Phoenix, AZ, says that customizing your cover letter is crucial to landing an interview.
“You have to decide who you are and who you want to be professionally,” she says. “Once you get to that stage, then things start changing.”
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rethinking
nude By Kelsey Daykin Sheila Ghanian photographed by Halie Conyers
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efore a woman throws on a white or sheer top in the morning, the first thing she usually reaches for is a nude bra. But what happens when the “nude” bra sitting in her dresser doesn’t match her naked skin? Like many women of color, Ade Hassan constantly struggled with this issue. Frustrated with her lack of options, she decided it was time to create a lingerie and hosiery brand for women of color. Her line, Nubian Skin, carries pieces in four skin tones: Berry, Cinnamon, Caramel and Café au Lait. “One of the things I really, really hope Nubian Skin helps women of color realize is that your skin color is beautiful no matter what tone and it deserves to be, you know, shown off, expressed,” Hassan said in a promotional video. Thinking of the word nude as synonymous to “white skin tone” is a deeply-rooted ideology in the United States, according to UW-Madison alumni Lisa Wade and Gwen Sharp. Wade, an Associate Professor and Chair of the Department of Sociology at Occidental College, and Sharp, an Associate Professor of Sociology at Nevada State College, addressed this issue in their essay, “Flesh-Toned,” which was published in the Spring 2010 issue of Contexts, a social research magazine. “In America, white means normal,” Wade and Sharp wrote. “Light skin is
neutral skin; flesh-colored is implicitly white.” This prejudice has serious implications for self-esteem. According to a study on race and gender called “The Blacker the Berry,” researchers Maxine S. Thompson and Verna M. Keith found that black women with darker skin had lower self-esteem, especially when the women lived in poverty. Lighter skin correlated with higher self-esteem, and black women tended to consider lighter skin more attractive. Although this language of white privilege is still all too common, some companies in the beauty and fashion industry, like Nubian Skin, are successfully pushing the boundaries of nude’s narrow definition. Liz Brinson, founder and Editor-in-Chief of Swirl Girl Army, a blog dedicated to multicultural and multi-ethnic women, said both social media and the Internet have encouraged companies to become more inclusive by helping people’s voices be heard. “Because the Internet makes things a lot more transparent, companies can’t sell you their old idea of what they believe beauty is,” Brinson said. Brinson founded her blog in 2013, shortly after graduating from the University of California-Los Angeles, and upon noticing there was a lack of fashion bloggers who “looked like me.”
“Swirl Girl started out with me going out in the world around Los Angeles, and finding girls of all different shapes, sizes, colors, everything, and finding role models I didn’t have,” Brinson recalled. Brinson grew up in a predominantly white neighborhood and said she struggled to fit in because of her multiethnic heritage. “I was very frustrated growing up and I wanted to open up a conversation around what it meant to be multiracial,” Brinson said. “There’s more than one form of beauty and I wanted to explore as many as possible.” Reflecting on the definition of the color “nude,” Brinson said the first thing that came into her mind was “society’s ideas of what nude means.” In other words, a pale or white skin color. Although the connotation of “nude” never accurately reflected American society, Brinson said, it’s more outdated now than ever before. Brinson referenced US Census data from 2010, which reported that the multiracial population increased 32% in 10 years, compared to 9.2% growth of the single race population. “We have to ask ourselves,” Brinson said, “‘What is nude?’ because what is nude for you isn’t nude for me.” modamadison.com / Spring 2015 15
TIMELESS
BEAUTY
by MEG ROTTER, lifestyle writer photographed by ALEXANDRA FOLINO modeled by NICOLE CIMBALNIK, LAUREN KNUDSEN & TANIESHA BROADWAY
Old Hollywood beauty for the contemporary woman. As time passes, the ideals of beauty change, whether with makeup, clothing trends or even body types. An era that seems to resonate through time, though, is that of Old Hollywood. Luscious pin curls, delicate strands of pearls and sultry red lips all lend to this genre in their own ways, romanticizing the graceful beauty of the era’s screen sirens. These looks, inspired by real actresses, recreate several empowering women during this era. Whether on-screen or off, these icons consistently challenged the definition of womanhood, and continue to inspire our beauty looks today.
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This look brings back the sultry air of Brigitte Bardot, with long curls and thickly-lined lids. As both an actress and singer in the 1950s and ‘60s, Bardot was declared the most liberated woman of post-war France. Her feminine fire emerges through the model’s overdrawn voluptuous red lips and smoky, winged eyes. The veiled hair piece lends to her air of mystery modamadison.com / Spring 2015 17 as a notorious sex symbol.
Inspired by Clara Bow, this beauty look channels the romance and drama of a 1920s silent film. The star of more than 40 films, Bow was deemed “The It Girl” of the Roaring Twenties. This look emulates Bow’s curly bob with a faux version and richly rosy cheeks. Her soft pink lips juxtapose her darkly colored eyelids, mirroring Bow’s infamous sensual 18 modamadison.com / Spring innocence. 2015
The poised glow of this look is inspired by film and theater actress Dorothy Dandridge. The first Black actress to be nominated for an Academy Award for Best Actress, Dandridge turned heads with both her flirtatious style and empowering presence. The model’s nude lip, bronzed cheekbones and golden eye shadow reflect Dandridge’s characteristically sultry grace.
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In Stitches:
a beginner’s guide to basic menswear tailoring Written and photographed by Caleb Foust
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s every self-styled fashion guru will tell you, fit is king. Fit is the wax-on-wax-off of the fashion world and for good reason: the difference between good fit and bad is the difference between looking like you live in a van down by the river and looking like you belong tapping away on a Macbook in an upscale café. The problem is that off-the-shelf garments rarely fit how you want them to. We all have very different bodies and different measurements, so only the lucky can buy things and have them fit perfectly off the rack. Tailoring is a natural solution, but finding a good tailor is expensive and time-consuming. Doing your own sounds daunting at first, but is actually inexpensive and easy to do. It turns billowy thrift store purchases into something even Macklemore would be proud of. The Russian proverb that says, “a beginning is an awful misfortune,” does not apply to basic sewing. To get going, all you need is some traditional needles, thread, some pins (often referred to in stores as “quilter’s needles”), and a seam ripper; it comes to about $10 total. A good iron will also help smooth out any tailoring process. Once your materials are all in order, find a garment that you think could use a little taking in. Here, a shirt is used, but the process is the same for most garments and therefore is pragmatically applicable. There are inherent restrictions on what tailoring can do, though. Namely, it is very difficult to fix a garment that does not fit well in the shoulders or in the waist. Both of those require rather complex reconstructions of the garment that may not even be possible. For a shirt, a good way to begin is to put it on and look for the places it could fit better. Common spots are the arms and lower torso where most looseness occurs. When you find some problem spots, lay out the garment on a flat surface inside out. As an example, 20 modamadison.com / Spring 2015
say that you found that the lower torso was pretty loose by a couple inches, but the garment fit snugly towards your chest. To combat this, measure a couple of inches in from the seam and line pins up both sides of the garment, forming a triangle. This does not necessarily need to be a straight line, but that works just fine in this case. Carefully try on the garment without stabbing yourself and see whether it fits closer to what you want. If it does not, take it off and move the pins around until you are satisfied. Follow the path of the pins with a stitch going down the entire length of the garment on both sides. This part can be done with or without a machine, but it takes a lot longer without one. To do it by hand, cut off a long length of thread and thread it through the needle. Match up the ends of the thread to divide it in half and tie a knot. Stick it through the fabric where you want to start and push it back up through the other side. Continue the stitch by stitching slightly backwards when the needle is above the fabric and slightly forwards when it is below, like the expression “two steps forwards, one step back.� Using this method, the stitching will stay together much longer. The work goes quickly while watching something on Netflix or listening to music. If you make a mistake, use the seam ripper to rip out the stitches that you sewed and start again. The completed result looks much better and turns what looked like a $10 purchase into a $100 one. Whenever a garment does not fit in a particular spot, you can do the same thing to slim it down. The sleeves of shirts, pant legs, and even the backs of jackets can be taken in by the same method of pinching and sewing the fabric together. More advanced tailoring is an extension of the same principle. With the ubiquity of the Internet, there are plenty of in-depth tutorials to suit your needs, in addition to guides for specific levels of formality and fit.
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U
nless something about the words “below freezing” speaks to you, the fact that summer is fast approaching likely is on the dwindling list of things getting you through round after round of exams. But once you’ve crushed those Scantrons like nobody’s business, you’ll need to make sure your wardrobe is ready for the uptick in temperature. Since every college student is on a budget, the emphasis here is versatility: we’re building a wardrobe for all occasions. Whether it’s a night out for drinks, a stylish stroll in the park with your partner or your second cousin Andrew’s wedding in Boca Raton, this bare bones wardrobe has got you covered. Since minimalism is the goal, an ideal summer wardrobe hits the limit at 20 items and the idea is to create a collection that toes the line between basic and flashy: something that conservatively pushes against the grain. Adaptability and a more reserved stylishness take priority over aggressive trendiness, so for aesthetic reasons, this wardrobe focuses generally on a color palette that’s more brown than black.
J.CREW FACTORY, GRAMERCY, $43
J.CREW FACTORY, TOMPSON SEERSUCKER SPORT COAT, $140
For shorts, one pair khaki, one pair navy, and one pair printed should do the trick. Make sure your printed pair isn’t too garish, but still sends the message that you know how to let your hair down. And since it’s summer, you can probably get by with only two pairs of pants: one pair of lightcolored chinos, and a pair of slim-fit jeans. To be honest, unless you commit a major faux pas, like rocking a pair of pink and green Madras, chances are nobody will take serious note of your khaki shorts—and that’s fine. Adaptability is the name of the game. But here’s a chance to make a statement: shoes and a blazer. Anyone needs a blazer for a job interview, a summer shindig, or a night at the club. Something lightweight like seersucker or linen is appropriate, and light charcoal-grey or tan is an easy color to make a statement while carrying yourself with maturity and reserve amidst all the summer revelry. Match with slim-fit chinos or jeans and a solid black shirt for a distinctive but adult look. Shoes are a tricky point: no doubt you need a couple pairs. Leather Oxfords are great for a look that’s versatile but still makes a statement. These are shoes you can wear with no-show socks along with shorts and solid-color t-shirt on a sunny weekend afternoon, but also with slacks to a job interview on Tuesday morning. If you’re feeling a little cheeky, spring for a pair of lighter-washed, suede wingtips instead. Any self-respecting guy needs at least a few halfway decent button-downs in his wardrobe year-round. For summer wear, go for a pair that are off-white or light blue, or maybe even a stonewashed, vibrant number. Top it off with a subtle printed button-down. Material-wise, try a mix of cotton and linen for a relaxed look that still passes for professional with a blazer. This has you covered on all bases: sleek and formal, relaxed but a little preppy, and ready to kick back at a barbecue. No doubt, though, nights occasionally get a little chilly in summertime. For sweaters, you can’t go wrong with a cardigan. They almost always can be worn stylishly and are extremely comfortable. A heavier-knit gray cardigan is best for when it gets chilly at the lake, and a navy blue will match your white shirt and chinos. For casual affairs, a lightweight zip-up hoodie looks equally stylish and laid back.
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BANANA REPUBLIC, LINEN SHIRT, $60
MERCEDES-BENZ $120 UNIQLO CHINO SHORT $30
UNIQLO, VINTAGE CHINO, $40 ALDO, DELIRWEN $80
SIMPLE SUMMER a guide to crafting a bare bones summer wardobe by conrad wight modamadison.com / Spring 2015 23
Joggers:
SARTORIAL LEGWEAR WITH COMFORT IN MIND
By Jake Hollister Oliver Whitting photographed by Bailey Salamanca
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s millennial men develop their personal styles, jogger pants have re-emerged as a men’s fashion staple of choice. Joggers originated in the ‘80s, but were overtaken by cuffed jeans in the ‘90s. Along with new trends such as “longline” tees and side-zip sweaters, they have recently taken the long and arduous path to the top of men’s fashion. These colorful, baggy, nylon pants have undergone quite the makeover and are making an impact everywhere from streetwear to high fashion runways. Adopted by generation Y, the jogger pant has taken its look to nearly every genre of street wear. Its appeal comes from its ability to act as a more comfortable alternative to pants with a tapered-fit, while looking better than ill-fitting jeans and baggy sweatpants. Utilizing various materials, the versatility of the jogger fit allows it to flow freely between every style, ranging from athletic wear to denim and chinos. The most practical version of joggers complement an athletic look. Often, these joggers are more like slim-fitting sweatpants with an elastic cuff. Traditionally, this look is all about comfort, and so as long as this need is met, the rest doesn’t matter. These joggers come best served with a side of low-top running shoes and non-visible socks. Throw on a hoodie or zip up sweater, and get moving. Acid-wash jeans are on their way back. Pairing this style with joggers creates quite a formidable combo. Denim style joggers are best worn in a street setting, so take it to the next level with a pair of solid color sneakers, and keep those ankles free for everyone to see. With an acid-wash below, it’s impossible to go wrong with the top, but it’s best to try to keep the urban feel. Finally, and just in time for summer, throw on a pair of TOMS and rock chino or khaki-style joggers. A khaki pair balances the business vs. pleasure dilemma and fits perfectly for the guy wanting to look nice for a more upscale event that may not be entirely formal. Throw on a decent dress shirt and out from the fray emerges the modern man.
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MY
ART
MY
SELF Written and photographed by:
Jourden Sürrí modamadison.com / Spring 2015 25
A
t the risk of sounding more than a little cheesy, it was at age 20 that I felt like I was practically born anew. In the span of only a few months, I ended an almost 3-year-long, abusive relationship, was stalked for months thereafter, left a coward of a best friend behind, overcame sexual assault, came out as queer to my friends, family, and myself, got my first girlfriend, sought help for my clinical depression and anxiety, and changed majors for the fourth time. Needless to say, I was a far different version of myself by the time spring semester of 2014 came around. I took my first photography class while I was still majoring in theatre, but truth be told, all I needed was that first class to hook me. My heart was pounding, palms sweating, hands shaking; it felt the way falling in love for the first time must feel. By the end of that first class, I knew for certain it was time to make the switch in majors for the last time, even though all we had done was go through a syllabus. When figuring out what I wanted to photograph, I decided upon the nude body. But after a while, I found it to be tolling: the models were hard to find, and they put limitations on what they would show or where they wanted my work to be shown. It made me feel detached from the work
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I was doing and it wasn’t until I became my own model that I began to feel connected to my work for the first time. So I guess the question then is: why did I choose nudity? But the counter question I have for everyone is: why not? The truth is that our issue with the nude body lies in the fact that American society teaches us to sexualize it, especially when it comes to women. Women in other parts of the world walk around topless in public while no one bats an eye, yet in the U.S. mothers can’t even breastfeed in public without it being considered lewd. This sexualization of the body is the same reason one of my favorite photographers, Sally Mann, was told that the photographs of her children were child pornography, despite the fact that noncommercial art exists ultimately for the artist and not the public eye. A mother’s eyes are not going to shame or sexualize her children’s bodies, and it isn’t her fault that the public chooses to do so. It is that very same reason why I am asked if the nudity in my photographs is “necessary.” It’s also why most reactions when discussing or showing my work to someone for the first time ranges from uncomfortable silence, to a sleazy eyebrow raise; basically anything but encouragement.
“My art’s intention is to speak about myself, and because of that it needs to be represented by something as honest and vulnerable as my naked body.” modamadison.com / Spring 2015 27
The truth is, nudity was a way for me to explore the female body from a different perspective because with the majority of professional nude photographers being male, the female form is often sexualized. So despite popular opinion, photographing my naked body is not done for shock value or to sexualize myself. I photograph me, for me. I no longer let anyone control the choices I make concerning my body or how I display it. I no longer have to fight just to keep from starving myself until an inch gap exists between my thighs. For the first time in my life, I can display my body as art, rather than it being something to be ashamed of. My art’s intention is to speak about myself, and because of that it needs to be represented by something as honest and vulnerable as my naked body. And it’s in that vulnerability that there is also power. It takes courage to allow one’s self to be vulnerable in the way that I do in my art. And there is power in knowing that the value of my body, my art, and myself does not rely upon the opinions of others.
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Not Everybody’s
Q&A
FLAVOR By Lanni Solochek, Arts Writer Photographed by Roberto Leon
After tearing up runways across Madison this past year, Moda chats with local designer Sophia Luchianni about her life, her creative process, and not taking things personally.
S
ophia Luchianni walks into her foyer, a nude lace dress in hand, and a needle and thread between her teeth. She tugs the dress over a dress form. “I’m just going to hand-stitch this on the mannequin,” she laughs. The House of Luchian is brightly illuminated with the natural sunlight of a cold day. A model gets her hair and makeup done in the walkway, a photographer checks lighting, and Sophia’s mother preps plates upon plates of snacks.
Between gossiping with the crew about the fashion industry and swapping stories about her worst fashion show experiences, Luchianni is fitting the nude dress for one of her models to borrow for an event. She consults her mother, a seamstress, and chats casually about her eighth and ninth collections and the theater she’s designing costumes for. She wanders in and out of her “Design Dungeon,” the basement of her home filled to the brim with loose fabric, costumes, garments, shoes and wigs. As if by magic, she flits out of the main room, returning in a skintight black dress and heels – she’s ready to take center stage. In her element, Luchianni is a force to be reckoned with. Over the course of the last year, Luchianni has created La Vie Luchian, her own brand that she has dreamed of for years. “I’ve always dabbled [in designing],” she says. “It’s been a hobby, but I’ve always been a designer at heart.” After her childhood city of Chicago, she trekked down to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, where she picked up costuming while working under a local seamstress for Mardi Gras ensembles. A week before Hurricane Katrina, she headed north again to attend the Art Institute of Chicago, but left before graduating to help with recovery efforts in the South. After her stepfather passed away, Luchianni came to Madison to take care of her family.
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Everything changed for Luchianni last year when she was introduced to RAW Artists, an organization that provides resources and exposure to artists at the start of their careers. She says her experience with RAW was disappointing, but the connections that she made at the show helped her launch her line. Since RAW, Luchianni’s collections have walked runways across Madison and the country. Her unconventional, independent style stands out in a crowd of uniformity. Her inspiration comes from everywhere, she says, but she especially loves wandering through museums for ideas. “When I find that one spot when I’m walking and it just hits [me], I think, ‘that’s what I want, how can I execute it?’” she says. “If I can answer that, my design mind goes crazy and says, ‘This is what I need, this is what I’m going to do, this is how much fabric I need, let’s make it.’” Once the process starts, there’s no taking a break for Luchianni. “When my ideas hit me, I can sew 10 garments in one day,” she says. “It’s a sucker punch, and it haunts me until I start creating the garment.” Luchianni prides herself on the individuality of each garment in her collections. For each show, she creates a themed line that she envisions, sketches, sews and styles herself. But, remaining humble, she admits that it takes a village to get her clothes out of her home’s sewing room and onto the runway. “I can’t do it alone, and I know I can’t do it alone,” she says. As for her own personal style, she describes it as “‘60s Nomadic Gypsy.” She loves mixing prints, structured garments, retro-vintage full skirts and heels. While some bits of this creep into her line, her unique style keeps her thoughtful about her garments. Luchianni has seen great success and downfalls in her career, but she keeps her head up and continues with her work. “Don’t take things personally—you’re not everybody’s flavor,” she says. “As a designer, what you’re putting out there is your child, but sometimes not everybody understands your concept or they don’t think about it.” Luchianni’s intense, thought-provoking designs are the result of a lifetime of passion, but best of all, her work is what she loves to do. “Have fun, don’t take things too seriously,” she advises. “It’s not life or death.” Luchianni may not be everybody’s flavor, but she is certainly ours.
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SUITS THAT Suit You By Emma Leuman, Fashion Writer
Find a swimsuit that fits your style best with these top picks from one of Moda’s fashion writers.
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ore likely than not, standing half naked in front of a mirror after a long Wisconsin winter is not the number one thing a woman wants to do. Covered in only two swaths of cloth, women often criticize themselves most during this time and consequently take the fun out of buying a swimsuit. Yet, with individuality at the forefront of today’s fashion scene, body image concerns should not be the focus. Rather than zeroing in on every flaw, consider how a swimsuit can speak to your personal aesthetic. Whether you’re edgy, bohemian, minimalist, retro or sporty, finding a suit that speaks to your individual style will allow you to focus on what’s really important: embracing your best self no matter your body type, size or shape.
Edgy
Boho
Costa Maya Slide Bikini Top, Seafolly, $65 zalando.co.uk
Minimalist Indian Summer Bandeau Bikini, Athena Procopiou, $385, harrods.com
Black Raceback Jacquard Bikini, Mara Hoffman, $214 shoplesnouvelles.com
Costa Maya Slide Brazilian Bikini Bottoms, Seafolly, $65 zalando.co.uk
Retro
Scalloped Retro Bikini Top, Monsoon, $33 us.monsoon.co.uk
Sporty
Gingham Bustier Bikini Top, River Island, $28 riverisland.com Sletten Classic Swimsuit, North, $145, youheshe.com
Essence Twist Halter Bikini, Zimmermann, $240, zimmermannwear.com Poppy Bikini, Triangl, $89, international. triangl.com
Hollywood HighWaisted Bikini Bottom, Prism, $130 modaoperandi.com
The Bridget HighWaisted Bikini Bottom, Solid & Striped, $80 modaoperandi.com
High Neck Ribbed Bikini Set, Topshop, $68 topshop.com
Summer of Love Bikini Top, Beco, $12 zalando.co.uk
Summer of Love Bikini Bottoms, Beco, $12, zalando.co.uk
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ELEMENTAL styled by MEKEA LARSON CAROL KOSHICK photographed by MARGARET DURROW
JEWELRY FROM THE EARTH—METAL, ROCK, CRYSTAL. NO DELICATE CHAINS OR CLASSIC PEARLS, ONLY THE BEAUTIFUL COLLECTIONS THAT ORIGINATE IN NATURE.
special thanks to PHEBE MYERS and TALIA MALKIN 32 modamadison.com / Spring 2015
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JEWELRY Evereve J. Crew Stylist’s own
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jewelry, TARGET
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jewelry, STYLIST’S OWN
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JEWELRY Urban Outfitters
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your style, anywhere Fashion Writer Victoria Fok takes three fashionistas with very different styles on a thrift store adventure to explore the true meaning of style. photographed by leyan xu
W
hat does it mean to be stylish? For some, “style” means adhering to the latest trends or wearing luxury brands. For others, style is not necessarily defined by labels; rather it is the unique way in which an individual curates their ensemble.
To explore this issue, Moda challenged Savannah Bigelow, Alexa Carlson, and Eleanor Kuban to find an ensemble at Willy Street’s St. Vincent de Paul thrift store, for under $20, that would speak to her personal style. Their uniquely different styles translated into three distinctly different looks and different shopping experiences.
savannah Self-described as “edgy yet sophisticated,” Savannah’s style is minimalist and sleek. Inspired by Kate Moss’ minimalist aesthetic and the ‘90s, Savannah gravitated toward a classic plaid mini skirt—an iconic piece of the decade. A bit overwhelmed by the wide variety of items at St. Vinny’s, Savannah struggled at first to find the perfect complement to her focal piece. A last minute find of a vintage, sheer, black blouse with an asymmetrical hem added a modern, fresh finish to her overall look.
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eleanor Eleanor prefers a darker palette, with a penchant for edgier, androgynous items. While Eleanor is our group’s resident thrift store shopper, she did not have an easy time picking out an ensemble. She deemed this particular thrift store to be too “cherry picked to be trendy,” and discovered that she did not feel as at home as expected. A frequent shopper of the men’s section, Eleanor gravitated toward a men’s plaid button down, which she paired over a black lace and floral print camisole with a pair of jeans that she previously thrifted from Goodwill. Hats are her signature piece, so Eleanor found an olive green hat to top off the ensemble.
alexa Alexa prefers soft and feminine pieces that complement an overall casual vibe. A very tactile shopper, she shopped by feeling all of the clothes, gravitating toward fabrics that felt best to her. When she reached for a bright pink angora cardigan, she knew she couldn’t leave it behind as the ultra soft material and the bright cheery color caught her attention. While pink is a bold choice, the cardigan fits perfectly with Alexa’s feminine style. Also inspired by classic, timeless pieces, Alexa was drawn to a silk scarf, which reminded her of Hermès.
While at first glance a thrift store may be just a place of discarded goods, it provides shoppers with the opportunity to develop and grow their own personal style while being environmentally, socially and financially conscious. If you are ready for the hunt and prepared for the dig, head to a thrift store for your latest stylish treasures . modamadison.com / Spring 2015 39
style Q&A Written and Photographed by Phebe Myers
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ashionistas come in all shapes and sizes, often with completely different aesthetics. Yet something we can all relate to is having at least one item in our closets that we have no idea how to wear. Moda Creative Director Mekea Larson hasn’t been able to get out of her black jean rut long enough to wear her new trendy jogger pants. Nikki Francois came to us with questions about morphing her wardrobe from KK-ready to office professional. And Brontë Mansfield, Moda’s arts editor, wanted to find a way to wear a cowgirl sweater in an art-chic world. Fashion is always asking questions, but here at Moda, we have the answers.
Q A
:
How do I incorporate grey jogging pants into my going–out wardrobe?
Mekea’s daily wardrobe consists almost exclusively of black and white. The girl looks heavenly in B&W mind you, but we thought it was time for a bit of a change, and branched all the way out into maroon. She bought these grey silky jogging pants over the summer and has found their Hammer-esque fit to be problematic for her wardrobe. The perfect way to pair any looser item is to balance it out with a tighter piece. The relaxed, athletic fit of the joggers pairs perfectly with a sexier, polo-neck crop top. With an oversize, white blazer and fresh, modern accessories, the simple trousers are instantly transformed into an outfit that would work perfectly anywhere from a gallery opening to a night out on the town.
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:
Q A
: How do I take my wardrobe from college life to work appropriate?
The transition from college to the “realworld” of careers has implications that reach further than (hopefully) just an increase in your bank account. But work appropriate does not have to equate to boring. Many of your college wardrobe staples (not leather leggings, keep those at home) can be transformed into 9-5 chic. Nikki had recently purchased this cool teal and black colorblocked dress, but let it hang unworn in her closet, feeling a lack of inspiration. When paired with a boxy houndstooth jacket and a shiny statement necklace, Nikki’s outfit was upgraded from sweet and simple, to amazing and stylish. With her commercial-worthy hair up in a voluminous top bun, Nikki is the epitome of office-hour trendy. :
Q A
: How do I wear animal print without looking like said animal?
Moda’s resident art critic, Brontë Mansfield, purchased a fuzzy cowprint sweater from Topshop thinking that it would be an essential element in her wardrobe. Black and white prints can easily become an integral part of any wardrobe, but when wearing an animal print, selectivity is key. To look chic rather than Halloweencostume-esque, use bright colors as the complement to B&W patterns for an avantgarde appeal. Pairing this cow-print sweater with a bright yellow tennis mini skirt makes the look ultra-contemporary. Brontë’s beautiful leather tote pairs perfectly with the modern outfit and makes it the ultimate look for her job at UW-Madison’s Chazen Museum of Art. :
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TAKING THE LUXE WRITTEN AND ILLUSTRATED BY MADALYN MANZECK
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n the past, luxury was not something that was commonly worn; rather it was a sumptuous way of living, exclusive to royalty and the aristocratic world of old money. Owning luxury goods conveyed a sense of status and wealth in addition to maintaining a history of tradition. Yet after the 20th century, the luxury sector created its own market and customer base, allowing those who were willing to pay the price to own a piece of this coveted lifestyle. As a result, many question whether modern societies have begun to establish their own “royalty” based on the consumption of luxury goods. The idea of owning and displaying luxurious goods goes as far back as the Greeks and other ancient cultures such as the Romans and Egyptians. The Greeks were known for their hedonistic lifestyles and enjoyed indulging in the finer things of life such as cuisine, entertainment and sex. They even passed sumptuary laws that dictated what could be displayed, in terms of wealth, to prevent commoners from imitating nobles. Other ancient groups, like the Etruscans, would wear precious materials including gold and imported amber and the Chinese, Persians and Egyptians wore silk embroidery to enhance their appearance. These ancient groups understood that luxurious goods acted as a mechanism with which to differentiate social classes. Perhaps one of the most iconic figures of luxury is Marie Antoinette. The French monarchy during the 1700s was the
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embodiment of sumptuous living. Rose Bertin, the leading Paris couturier, designed Antoinette’s dresses, which often included yards and yards of expensive silks, laces and trims. Some people even attribute the French Revolution to Antoinette’s extravagant wardrobe, and it was reported that Antoinette bought a pair of diamond bracelets that cost as much as a Parisian mansion. With the fall of the French monarchy in the late 1700s and the rise of industrial fortunes in the United States, families such as the Vanderbilts, Astors and Whitneys became the newest in the long line of luxury-consuming “royals.” Known for their prominence in society, politics and business, these American royals were the beginning of a little something called “old money.” It was also during this time that luxury brands, such as Louis Vuitton, Hermès and Cartier, were founded. Today, these luxury brands are multi-billion dollar conglomerate corporations, but most of them began with humble origins. Louis Vuitton started as a small luggage brand. Thierry Hermès made harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade. Louis Cartier made pocket watches and also designed the very first wristwatch. However, it was not until The Golden Age of Hollywood in the 1930s that these luxury brands began to gain global popularity. Hollywood actresses became the newest American royalty and were dressed by designers as illustrious as Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Givenchy and Salvatore Ferragamo. Gloria Swanson, a
OUT OF LUXURY HAS THE ABILITY TO CONSUME LUXURY GOODS CREATED A CLASS OF CONTEMPORARY ROYALTY? siren of the silent screen, stated, “The public wanted us to live like kings and queens, and we did.” After the American public saw a dress on an actress, sales would explode and the dress would immediately sell out. The message became very clear to luxury brands that dressing movie stars and celebrities was the best, and cheapest, form of advertising. After World War II, a steady increase of women entered the workforce, especially in the 1980s when the working woman was in the spotlight. The working single woman was earning her own living, which provided her with money to spend on luxury goods. Due to the increase in disposable income, there was an evergrowing demand and customer base for luxury items. Particularly in Asia, working single women often lived with their parents while working full time, enabling them to spend their money elsewhere and helping to create the ever-growing luxury demand in Asia. Luxury brands were reminded of the advertising power of the celebrity in the 1990s. After Madonna wore the infamous satin blouse and velvet trousers to the MTV Awards in 1995, Gucci sales exploded with a waiting list for the velvet trousers worldwide. Celebrities also became idols and muses: the Hermès “Kelly” bag is named after Grace Kelly and the infamous “Birkin” bag after Jane Birkin. Which brings us to the contemporary day middle class. The mass
market is a result of selling products inspired by luxury goods at a lower price point, known as the “trickle down theory.” Garment designs and silhouettes seen in stores such as Kohl’s and Target are directly influenced by the designs seen on the runways of Chanel, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and the like. Luxury brands also market less expensive items, such as fragrances and cosmetics, so that middle class people feel they can afford to own a piece of the luxurious dream. Never before in history has the middle class been able to own a piece of a luxury brand—providing reason to speculate that social classes from a fashion perspective may be entirely eliminated in the future. So, in answering the question of whether or not modern day societies are creating their own royalty based on the consumption of luxury goods, it would appear that they are. To cite a relevant cultural example, the Kardashian family is viewed as American royalty, not because of their contributions to society or business or politics, but because of their cultural prominence and exorbitant ownership of luxury goods. Perhaps true fashion royalty will soon become obsolete. Maybe power is now a factor measured by the number of Louboutin heels in a woman’s closet or the extent of her Hermès bag collection. Either way, society seems to pay a price. The only question remaining is whether we are paying the price for luxury or if luxury is paying the price for us.
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Dress, Apricot Lane Necklace, Express
INTO THE
SUN
Bold accessories, eccentric prints and vivid colors brighten up dark wardrobes of winters past and let your style shine through. DIRECTED AND STYLED BY PAIGE SCHULTZ AND MARISSA MONETT HELENA MILLER PHOTOGRAPHED BY ROBERTO LEON HAIR, PAIGE SCHULTZ MAKEUP, JENNIFER ANDERSON
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Dress, Necklace & Bag Apricot Lane modamadison.com / Spring 2015 45
Dress & Bracelets, Apricot Lane Hat, Stylist’s Own
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Top, Shorts & Bracelets Apricot Lane modamadison.com /Shoes, SpringModel’s 2015 47Own
Dress, Target Necklaces, Express 48 modamadison.com / Spring 2015 Bag, Apricot Lane
Romper, Pitaya Bracelets, Apricot Lane modamadison.com / Spring 2015 49 Scarf, Stylist’s Own
BLANK SPACE By Brontë Mansfield Emma Leuman photographed by Thomas Yonash
A brief history of white gallery walls and how a coat of paint created the minimal-as-modern mindset.
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lose your eyes and picture an art gallery. What do you see? A spacious room speckled with visitors milling about and evenly spaced, carefully illuminated works of art, all hanging on a white wall. The white walls of artistic display spaces are so enmeshed with the aesthetics of the 21st century—with its coveting of the minimal, and its love of the sleek and simple that has seeped into every aspect of modern design—that they have become invisible to the contemporary eye. But why did shades of white become the de facto wall color for galleries and museums? The short answer: James Abbott McNeill Whistler. While most may know Whistler by his famous painting “Arrangement in Grey and Black No.1” (1872) or colloquially, “Whistler’s Mother” (yes, the one Mr. Bean destroys in his eponymous film), he is also the artist responsible for the modern white wall. It is difficult to imagine how a painter who lived from 1834 to 1903 could have such an impact on contemporary aesthetics, but context is clarifying. In Victorian Britain, the most important art show of the year was the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition, held in what is now the National Gallery in London’s Trafalgar Square. At the Academy, art was stacked from floor to ceiling, and the better the art, the closer to eye level it was placed. Additionally, Victorian galleries were often painted dark tones, such as red. Why? Because many artists painted landscapes heavy in green-tones, and green’s complementary color, red, made them pop. However, in 1883, Whistler opened an installation with a radically new aesthetic: art in matching frames, sparsely hung on light walls. Whistler raved that the walls of his exhibition looked “[s]parkling and dainty—and all so sharp—white walls—of different whites.” Whistler’s avant-garde artistic show would, in time, shape the way galleries and museums display art, and even influence 21st century aesthetic ideals. To understand the impact this choice of wall color had on not only exhibition practices, but what would become our contemporary lust for the minimal, you need only ponder this: can you imagine an Apple Store with red walls? Sources: http://www.asia.si.edu/press/past/prwhistersgalleries.htm http://www.artnews.com/2010/02/01/when-white-is-wrong/ 50 modamadison.com / Spring 2015
www.modamadison.com modamadison.com / Spring 2015 51
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