Vaild Until by Jessica A. Lazarus

VALID UNTIL ContemporaryThoughtsonPaper

VALID UNTIL

Fashion and Society / Contemporary Thoughts on Paper

Editor in Chief / Deputy Editor / Copy Editors / Editorial Consultant / Art Director / Assistant Art Director / Design Artists /

Naz Bokhari Shria Nene Diana Roberts Mitalee Deshpande Anastasia Selivanova Carmela Roberts Jessica A. Lazarus Marilyn Quarshie

Production Managers / Alicia Delva Zeinab Memene Kristen Glover Photography / Fabrice Malard 2019

Editor’s Note

Things may not always be what they seem. Whether you grew up in, are adapting to, or know nothing but... there is no denying that the digital age is here. Consequently, we are moving to an era of learning to adjust and understand the spirit of the individual, beyond what is apparent or assumed. When it comes to fashion, it touches more aspects of the individual than we may initially realize. Physical appearances and alterations, personality traits and mental health, as well as social and political involvement, are just some of the many issues that fashion is intertwined with. Valid Until aims to unveil and dissect this interaction in the now, and in the future.

Our cover image chosen from the “Sync or Sink” editorial is representative of this in its totality, the fluidity and connection that people are seeking, on whatever level it may be.We are all different, but it’s this concept we wish to celebrate and bring into the limelight. We invite you to step into our space, whether you chose a guided tour or wish to go at your own pace, we have carefully curated a selected variety of contemporary topics to display. This is a space to discover, uncover, and reimagine the perceptions of our ever-changing world. Here is your ticket, it is Valid Until your next visit… Enjoy.

You will find here that we remove the stigma and buzz behind the matters that “must be talked about” and rather, have made them the norm and thus the foundation from which the magazine is built. Here we are gender fluid, we are politically aware, we are mentally conscious, we are artistically inclined and we are culturally appreciative. We have created a collective space to incorporate all that makes us individuals.

ENTRANCE ON DISPLAY NOW

ON RECORD

Content Guide

IN SPOTLIGHT

IN LOUNGE

IN SHOP

Sâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ELI VIE 10

YOU ARE HERE

On Display

UP AND COMING / 13 ROOTED IN TEXTILE / 17 FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY / 21 ART / 23

UP AND COMING

In what way is sustainability present in your designs?

Make It Last

As well as using organic vegetarian materials, I am focused on minimising my impact on the environment. I try to reduce the fabric waste by creating garments which are ‘one size fits all’. I also apply zero-waste pattern cutting techniques wherever possible. I’ve previously experimented with upcycling materials and giving them a new life with natural dyeing techniques.

In Conversation with Designer Xenia Telunts

Being an ethical and sustainable designer also means taking care of the people that work with you and help you. At the moment, all of my garments are made in England and the workers are paid a fair living wage.

Words / Anastasia Selivanova

A lot of fashion design graduates begin an exciting new chapter by launching their own brands. Xenia Telunts was no exception. A young designer who graduated from London College of Fashion, Xenia started working on her namesake label upon the completion of a Bachelor’s degree in Womenswear Design. A Russian native, she is now based in York, UK. From her small house in the countryside, she designs and samples her collections and manages the business side of the brand. Xenia believes that clothing should not be created to satisfy shortterm needs but rather everything should be designed with careful consideration for the long term, in hopes that what is made will last for generations. Through her collections, the designer explores aspects of sustainability, including techniques of zero-waste pattern cutting, natural dyeing, up-cycling textiles, and the use of organic fabric. Although she feels fully integrated into the British culture these days, Xenia admits that she regularly looks back into her rich Russian heritage, and is inspired by the traditions, the use of minimal resources, and the simplest of means to achieve long-lasting clothing.

What do you find exciting in the fashion world and what aspects make you question the industry?

Do you think it is possible for slow fashion to win the war against fast fashion?

I am thrilled to see sustainability taking its central spot in the world of fashion – it is currently getting a lot of attention from the media. With an overabundance of brands and trends, the consumer now cares about how the product is being made. More people are giving up on following trends and instead are investing into ‘forever’ pieces.

I believe the fashion industry is already going through a big change, but it does not come on its own. Today, it is accompanied by the growing climate emergency. Overall, people that own a TV and/or WiFi broadband are well aware of the global issues. They now know that action was needed a long time ago, and that the consequences are imminent.

However, ‘green-washing’ concerns me. Every large high street brand is doing its best to sell you their organic cotton t-shirt, or recycled swimwear. I think there is a certain part of the industry that is using sustainability as a buzz word. For instance, H&M has a Conscious Collection. Just because they claim to have started using organic cotton does not mean the other issues around the H&M group vanished. I would not want a consumer to blindly believe them and carry on ‘overbuying’. 13

The consumer has the power to make a choice to shop sustainably or not to shop at all (and buy clothes second-hand, which I am a strong advocate for), but the revolution must also happen within the industry. There is a lot of attention being paid to the production of materials – polluting water with toxic dyes and the usage of a sea-worth of water to produce cotton t-shirts. The Aral Sea is a perfect example for this. 14

UP AND COMING

Do you think that living and working in the UK as a Russian designer is an intrinsic part of your brand? Possibly, as very often my garment research and concepts come from Soviet Russia. I am grateful to be a part of such a complicated and multi-layered culture which allows me to draw inspiration from it. However, my interest in sustainable and ethical fashion may not have occurred if I did not live in England. Who do you look up to in the fashion industry? There are lots of amazing brands out there. One of my favorites at the moment is Story mfg. They are a sustainable brand that uses natural dyeing techniques, and their clothes are hand made in India and Thailand. They are a positive brand and their fashion is fun and conscious. How does your surroundings impact your work and creativity?

The revolution is happening already, but it’s a huge industry with 7.7 billion consumers. It needs time. Ninety percent of the consumers choose to shop on the high street since it is very affordable. In order for brands of this category to survive in the current climate, they not only have to worry about being sustainable but also keep their low price point intact as no corporation would choose to lose its customers over ethics. It may take a couple of generations for people to change their shopping habits; I just hope it won’t be too late.

“I am not trying to be a ‘hype’ designer. I want people to keep my garments as ‘forever pieces’ and grow and experience life with them.”

Originally a womenswear designer, what made you decide to expand into menswear? How does your design process differ between menswear and womenswear?

I am very affected by my surroundings. London was this great source of inspiration and motivation for me when I lived there, but since I moved out to York I found my own pace which I think suits this current time of my life better. Life is slower and less stressful here; working in fashion and having your own business can be so overwhelming. It’s nice to be able to switch off and enjoy yourself. People around here are also very conscious when it comes to zero-waste living and being ‘green’, for example growing their own vegetables, buying second-hand clothes, cycling everywhere. It really motivates me on a personal level as well, to be a better person not only through my brand but also in my everyday life. I want to do more collaborative projects with local craftsmen in the area where I currently live. I met some incredibly talented people who possess craft skills which are now rare and possibly dying out. What is the main challenge as a young professional starting the business and what are your aspirations for the brand?

Talk me through the transition from Russia to the UK. How has your Russian background influenced what you do design-wise?

I position myself as a unisex designer. However, currently it is only menswear stores that stock me. I prefer the attitude to menswear fashion more, I think. It seems to me that this part of the industry is slower, and people are more willing to invest in forever pieces. A menswear consumer seems to really appreciate tiny details, and that is something I am always drawn to.

I’ve lived in England since I was 15, therefore a lot of my culture is British, and as a result there are a lot of things I don’t know about the Russian culture. I definitely feel nostalgic to my childhood in Russia, in the 90’s. As I mentioned earlier, I researched a lot about life in the Soviet Union and found out how resourceful people were at that time, upcycling and mending their clothes, since it was very hard to get new clothes. I was inspired to experiment with zero-waste pattern cutting techniques after learning that the apartment blocks built during the Soviet Era were so precisely measured, so that there was an exact distance between a wall and an oven, for a woman of an average height to bend over. I found it fascinating. If such precise calculations can be applied in architecture, they most certainly can be explored in fashion to reduce fabric waste.

Who is your ideal customer? Someone that believes in a sustainable future and buys my brand because I am trying to be a part of that. Someone that really values materials and details, and the fact that some of my pieces take many hours to be made. I am not trying to be a ‘hype’ designer. I want people to keep my garments as ‘forever pieces’ and grow and experience life with them. 15

Cashflow is your main challenge. Creativity aside, you need to have some basic business skills to know what you are doing. Cashflow is the reason a lot of brands don’t survive.You pay for your textiles and production months before you get paid by your stockists. It is very difficult to manage. Moreover, people often don't pay on time and then it becomes even more tough to plan future projects. What can we expect for the brand in the near future? Photo / Xenia Telunts AW18

I am currently planning and researching into future projects and collaborations so I hope, if everything goes well, there will be a lot of exciting things to come!

I CAN’T SEE I FEEL LIKE I’M YET NOT QU DEAD M AUT NUSCIPI ENIA Rooted in Textile 28/05/2019

Photography /

Fabr ice Malard

Ar t Direction /

Anastasia Selivanova Jessica A. Lazar us Mar ilyn Quar shie Car mela Rober ts

ROOTED IN TEXTILE

USED TO LIVE. I DID. FELT THE W BLOW GENTLY THROUGH. MY VER BEING AND EXISTENCE. ENCOURA NG, LIVING IN ME AND I GREW AN GREW AND WATCHED THE SHADE 19

FASHION AND TECHNOLOGY

Enter The Fabricant, a design house based in Amsterdam focused on finding the balance between computer-aided design and human innovation, to produce purely digital fashion. Their first collection (now free for download) took the industry by surprise, as customers were eager to get their hands on the digital rendering. The brand states via its Instagram, “The idea of physicality seems outdated (…) the new digital reality is forming around us...” And they are right, considering the success of their newest collection, entitled ‘The Future is Now’ (#FFROP), sold at an auction in May 2019. ‘Iridescence’, a dress without physical existence, was purchased by a willing customer for $9,500. If this doesn’t show the potential demand, what will?

DIGITALONLY Words /

Jessica A. Lazarus

The question to ask is, could we make do with what we have? Could we slow down our physical consumption for the digital tradeoff? Could we consume in a sustainable way that allows for the expression of self, without costing the environment? More importantly, is there a technology even capable of executing this dream? This is a weighted question. Yes, technology has developed and algorithms are becoming niftier in producing 3D rendered garments, but the process of creating digital fashion is limited. Currently, it takes Carlings 2.5 days to tailor a garment on a client-uploaded photo. After, the client has access to the result - a photograph of themselves wearing the true-to-fit garment, a digital equivalent of having customized clothing for your body shape.

Although this is a steep price to ask one to pull out of their pocket, it’s not the norm. Multi-brand Scandinavian retailer Carlings released its first digital-only 12-piece collection last November, priced at $33 and upwards. This was a collaborated effort with WaterAid, to highlight the amount of waste and polluted water from fashion production - a figure close to 2,700 liters per t-shirt, equating to quenching your thirst for two and a half years. That’s a lot. The collection was promoted by social media influencers on Instagram, leading to it being sold out within a week.

This technology is still in its embryonic stage and will take time to develop. However, the future holds hope for everyday use.

For many of us 90’s babies, who grew up playing online dress-up games (think hard and remember The Doll-Palace, Stardoll, etc.) this directional shift gives into the nostalgic feel of today’s aesthetic. Like Snapchat, the future of digital fashion can evolve into being as simple as dragging and dropping garments or merely clicking on filters when taking a photo. If our digital selves are not 100% authentic, why should the outfits we post follow real world rules? In truth, the world does not need more waste.

Digital Fashion Collections - Purely online clothing has the potential to become fashion’s answer to social media demands. Digital only brands could become the solution to influencers and those alike who purchase clothing purely for social media photos and discard later. With time this innovative solution could become as easy to use as Snapchat filters – click and go.

If we could enter into a matrix where trendy clothing appeared, computer generated at the tap of a button, fulfilling our needs for posting a new selfie on Instagram - would we? If our closet space was only limited by the number of gigabytes on a smartphone; able to expand into infinite categories, we could achieve our social media obligations. Essentially, consumers can have a digital-only closet space rivaling Cher’s from the 90’s cult film Clueless.

Fashion is speeding up, there’s no way to stop the ravenous appetite of the social frenzy. People want more and more, but where is the sustainable solution? When we produce physical garments, they are discarded within a few months for the next round of trends. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, every second, one truckload of clothing is burned.Yes, every second. That is enough to fill the Empire State Building 1.5 times each day. If we continue in this cycle, we will live in a mountain of rotting fabric. This issue poses the question - does fashion need to exist in the physical realm?

Like Snapchat, the future of digital fashion can evolve into being as simple as dragging and dropping garments or merely clicking on filters when taking a photo.

Worried about how digital garments would look on your timeline? These garments are photorealistic with clean lines, true-to-life fabrics, they bounce in movement, and their fit mimics natural textiles. It’s hard to spot, with the naked eye, the difference between a digital garment and the real thing. Advances in technology and 3D rendering are creating even more lifelike products; the future of digital-only collections and the ease of use will only improve.

Photo /

via Instagram @the_fab_ric_ant

art

Cultivating the Work of African Creatives In conversation with Nelly Wanji, a consultant and African art gallery owner, about her contribution to cultivating the work of African creatives on the continent and diaspora.

Words / Marilyn Quarshie

Photo /

Naz Bokhari

“Africa is now!” This statement has lingered in the air for some years now when it comes to the continent’s contribution to the fashion industry. However, as much as there has been rising popularity of African fashion and its influence in the global fashion industry, it has seen slow incremental growth when it comes to the world of luxury. Undoubtedly, the African continent is rich in culture, talent, and creativity. Ensuring that creatives on the land and the diaspora have a voice in the luxury industry by promoting their talented work is what shift-makers such as Nelly Wandji are doing. I sat down with Nelly to discuss how she became a gallery owner, as well as the various important roles she plays in cultivating the work of African creatives.

As a Cameroonian native, Nelly came to Paris to study, and soon after landed a job as a marketing assistant. It is through this job that she came to what she describes as a ‘revelation’. “After my studies, I worked for one of the largest jewellery conglomerates. I was responsible for looking at the artisans of the group’s luxury division and oversaw the development of the company in France and throughout Europe,” she says.

“The goal is not only to change the mindset and perception of African art and fashion, but to show that there is so much beauty in African craftsmanship and that it has enough value to be seen as luxury,” says Nelly Wandji, whose gallery showcases the luxury of African craftsmanship through design, art, and fashion. Nelly Wandji gallery is located in the prestigious 8th arrondissement of Paris, home to many major luxury brands and high-end art galleries. Being an entrepreneur is no easy task but her passion for the work of African creatives has fuelled Nelly and has been the driving force behind her businesses.

With that realization, along with her working experiences and connections, Nelly decided to quit her job and embark on her first entrepreneurial venture. “I decided to start Moonlook, an online platform that would give creatives on the continent the opportunity to share, connect, and show their work.”

The success of the pop-ups led to her opening her own gallery, which has now been in business for almost three years. She describes the gallery as, “…a space where people can see, feel, and touch the items, a space with my vision paired with areas that served others. “ The front part of the shop displays artworks and designs, while the back serves as a “cabinet of curiosities” where one can find clothes, bags, jewellery, and magazines. The downstairs area is a combination of a showroom and cozy lounge.

“I want to look at an art piece and feel connected to it by grasping the essence and understanding the story that the artist is trying to convey – that is what touches me.”

When it comes to sourcing and finding work to display in the gallery, Nelly taps into a large network. “I am well known among creatives. Through my interactions and word of mouth, I am able to come across work to showcase. I travel a lot around the continent and attend tradeshows and art shows. I also meet a lot of people who introduce me to other creatives.” Nelly explains how her love for craftsmanship is what helps her in deciding what to showcase. She is attracted most to materials. “One part of human beings that we don’t emphasize enough is the capacity to transform material into art; turn something very raw and unpolished into something very beautiful and finished. I want to look at an art piece and feel connected to it by grasping the essence and understanding the story that the artist is trying to convey – that is what touches me.” Every entrepreneurial journey is accompanied by sacrifices. For Nelly, the sacrifice was giving up her leisure. “When I used to have spare time, I loved visiting galleries, exhibitions, watching movies, and travelling. Now I just sleep because I am too tired,” she laughs. She acknowledges that trying to change people’s mindset on how they perceive African fashion and art is a challenge. However, that does not stop her. “I want people to be able to expand and evolve their perceptions to understand that African craftsmanship is not just unique, but something that can also be valued as luxury.” With the on-going pursuits of her mission, Nelly encourages Africans on the continent and the diaspora to “…be authentic, don’t follow the crowd, bring your voice, be innovative and bring something new to the table. Everybody has something very significant to offer, so don’t be afraid to go for it. After all, no one can be better at African art than Africans.”

In addition to maintaining the online platform, Nelly was busy managing a whole other business, and it was through its success that she came up with another idea. “After launching the online platform, I was also doing a lot of pop-ups with pieces and designs that I collected from my travels to Africa. These items were selling very well and that’s when I decided it would be a good idea to have a physical space to showcase them,” she explains. 23

Photo / Artwork by Kouang Charles via Instagram @nelly_wandji

On Record

YOU ARE HERE

FASHION AND MUSIC / 27

FASHION AND MUSIC

The Audio-Sensory Side of Fashion Composer / Naz Bokhari

FASHION AND MUSIC

Now I know what you’re going to ask next… what does a music designer do? Well, they are someone who usually specializes in one genre of music, and uses their expertise to work with a brand to elevate the customer’s in-store experience. By placing the right music, at the right time, in the right order, it helps create an emotional connection between the brand and the customers while they shop. A music designer is given briefs by the fashion brands they work with. The briefs describe the target market, consumer profile, brand image and identity. All of these details help the music designer get an idea of what kind of music would appeal to their customer while staying relevant to the brand and its environment. Some brands know exactly what they want, while others leave it up to the designer’s judgment. Burberry is a brand that sends specific songs over to the designer to be put into their stores. Kate Spade chooses only certain genres to be played and wish to have French music heavily incorporated into their playlist at a certain time of the year, to match their specific collections and merchandising. Chanel wants the music to match their fashion shows – an ambient background sound that doesn’t stand out too much.

The process that goes into creating the perfect playlist depends on several factors: research, proofreading, balance, and technical aspects. The first step is to do your research, read the brand brief, and explore your artists. The brands consult with the lead designer to create an audio identity guide, a list of sample artists or songs that match the sound they want, along with the sounds they want to avoid. Jimmy Choo prefers a sound that allows their consumer to feel bold and sexy, but they want to avoid any music that is vulgar or too sensual. They want Rihanna’s vibe but may not always include her music specifically. Certain female hip-hop artists, like Nicki Minaj, are not approved of at all, as they are often too overt.

Photo / Fabrice Malard

Imagine, you walk into the store, start browsing through neatly packed piles of tops, trousers, tees, and tons of other things. While you’re occupied with this, you start humming along to a catchy song playing overhead. Tune after tune, it sounds just like your favorite playlist, and you start to wonder who puts the music in this store. Is it the people working there, or is it maybe the radio? Actually, it’s none of the above!

After familiarizing themselves with the brand’s expectations, the music designer would then start to research artists and songs that would fit the criteria. This could take days because the next step is to proofread your selections. The designer needs to listen to every song, word for word, to make sure that there weren’t any connotations or obscene language. The next step is to balance the playlist out, which is a part of the technical aspect.There are several technical skills involved in music design - learning how to use the software that is exclusive to Mood Media, being able to create the right rules, and play-clock. What this simply means is that you should not play a specific artist back to back, as well as the same genre too often in a row. The software allows you to manage and manipulate the playlist to avoid repetition. One thing to remember is that not all music or artists are always available due to licensing and royalties. Anything that you select must be cleared by the publisher and the label.

There is somebody whose job it is create these playlists that are in all the stores you love. I worked as a ‘music designer’ for Mood Media, the world’s leading media company, and they focus heavily on just this. Their clients range from high-end to premium fashion brands, from beauty labels to jewelry labels, and from drug stores to grocery stores; they do it all! Music design is about finding a way to enhance someone’s mood, through indirectly contacting them on a subconscious level. The goal is to create the perfect ambiance, which fits the brand and enhances it. It is to create a sensorial experience for someone, while they are in this public space. It is for the customer to form an emotional connection to the environment and entice them to not only enjoy it, but want to come back.

Quite a bit of work goes into creating a successful playlist for a retail space, especially when it comes to luxury labels. It takes more than just having a general good taste in music; it’s a combination of wide-spread knowledge of music and licensing, time and patience to do the research and proofreading. Obviously, technical skills are also necessary to be able to put it all together and manage it with the software. So, the next time you are in the store, browsing through all the tops and trousers, and you find yourself singing along to the songs playing, you now know exactly how they got there and that it took hard work, but it was all to enhance your experience.

FASHION AND MUSIC

fashion and music

The Style of Sound Fashion and music, two themes that are connected by a single common thread, art!

Words / Alicia Delva Photography / Fabrice Malard Art Direction / Zeinab Memene Style / Alicia Delva Make-Up / Mila Militina Model / Iscia Alexandre

Musicians’ lives are never a long calm river, and sometimes talent is not everything. In order to sell your music, you have to be able to talk about yourself, and in this industry, everything is allowed - from politically correct statements to scandalous actions! Let’s focus on the subject; we’re not here to talk about Britney Spears’s gaffes, but rather the bold style and trend launches of Lady Gaga!

It is important to understand that memory works in several ways: auditory, visual and kinesthetic; it determines a way of perceiving the life that surrounds us. The interest of a musician, as in any business, is to market their talent and make the most of it. They must put all the chances on their side to succeed and make a career. Fashion is essential in order to constitute a brand image, to stand out from the competition, and above all, to allow the musicians to express themselves differently than solely with their musical talent. This is the case with some musicians, such as the young Billie Eilish, who recently fascinated an entire generation with an aura she put forth through her dressing style, not only during her performances but also in real life.

For quite some years now, fashion has been a major part of the career of a leading musician, especially during concerts, video clips, and appearances both on stage and off. It must be said that it is easier to remember a crazy look of a pop star than that of a classical pianist. Everyone knows how Michael Jackson looked, which is not the case for Hans Zimmer! Even if he is famous, I challenge you to describe him as well as you’d describe Michael Jackson, with all the minute details.

FASHION AND MUSIC

A well-chosen garment is essential; it helps to keep the mindset and the message that the artist wants to spread through their music. The world’s leading marketers will always tell you that the key to a successful product is to deliver a clear and concise message. Sometimes, musicians have a strong taste for fashion and they do not hesitate to cash in on it. However, most of them need the support of a professional stylist. When we talk about celebrities, stylists are never far behind. They are the creators. They can make or break the image of an artist within a matter of seconds, such as Olivier Rousteing, Artistic Director of Balmain, who styled international artists like Béyoncé during her tour “On the Run II”, and particularly at the Coachella show in 2018.

Fashion is essential in order to constitute a brand image, to stand out from the competition, and above all to allow the musicians to express themselves differently than solely with their musical talent.

However, fashion is not just clothes. We talk about style, but style is not just worn, it needs to be asserted! Some musicians decide to focus on accessories such as glasses. Who does not know Polnareff with his white colored glasses, unchanged for over thirty years? John Lennon, with his round metal glasses, became a fashion icon for the “Hippie” style, which lives on today under a brand in his name! Will.I.Am of the Black Eyed Peas has even launched his own fashion label, and their glasses are sold in more than a thousand sales outlets around the world. But all this will never catch up with the largest collector of glasses in the world, talked about at this 72nd edition of the Cannes Film Festival, with his film Rocketman, Sir Elton John!

Having a “signature look” as a musician helps to set them apart from the crowd and in turn helps their music career grow. A musician’s personal style makes it easier for them to be remembered through various ups and downs of their careers. It can change their attitude, the way they walk, and the way they see themselves. Their personal style brings forward a newer, better version of themselves.

A musician’s personal style makes it easier for them to be remembered through various ups and downs of their careers. It can change their attitude, the way they walk, and the way they see themselves.

Finally, we must conclude with the fact that fashion helps music to promote itself. It is a form of showcase for the musicians to sensitize the memory of their publics. Also, the fashion and music industries are connected on many levels - campaigns, catwalks, and events. Musicians like to sponsor fashion artists that are on the same frequency as them. It’s a win-win situation, or better yet, a happy ending for both parties involved.

In Spotlight

YOU ARE HERE

SYNC OR SINK / 35 FASHION AND POLITICS / 41 FASHION AND MENTAL HEALTH / FASHION AND SOCIAL / 47

SYNC OR SINK

Sync or Sink 03/06/2019

Photography / Fabr ice Malard Ar t Direction / Mar ilyn Quar shie Style / Jessica A. Lazarus Make-Up / Mila Militina Models / Wayan Moosi Joseph Fini

SYNC OR SINK

fashion and politics

Unapologetically Political With the rise of a “belief-driven customer,” society is demanding more awareness and action. Companies are forced to take a stand. But, is taking a social and a political stand a trend or a movement?

Words / Shria Nene

The Butterfly Effect This season’s London Fashion Week saw designers voicing out their concerns about the uncertainty and financial issues regarding Britain’s exit from the EU. The catwalk was full of slogans from various designers. Katherine Hamnett’s garments, specifically t-shirts, bore phrases like “Cancel Brexit”. Models in the Vivienne Westwood show condemned Brexit over megaphones. The British Fashion Council sent a memo to the then Prime Minister, Theresa May, stating the need of a second referendum or at least a good deal for Brexit. Although many designers say that this is not the first time that London is hit with a crisis (the 90’s bank recession and the 70’s economic downfall), there sure are mixed views on the no-deal stance of the United Kingdom, and the ripples of an event as uncertain as this are going to spread far and wide.

Fashion has always been considered an industry that was superficial with narcissistic tendencies. It was and still is considered as a form of indulgence for the rich and the wealthy, often referred to as “conspicuous consumption.” Although many people’s livelihoods depended on it, it is considered to be a source of shallow gratification. Even when it became a billion-dollar industry with vested interests of many, the primary job of the fashion companies, was, is, and will be to clothe the society. Companies, considered to be entities without a personality (apart from a design aesthetic, and creative outlook) were expected to be apolitical and socially neutral.

A Look Across the Pond

The rise of ‘belief-driven buyer’ is increasing steadily. Are the moral principles of global fashion corporations changing according to consumers’ mindsets? Are more and more companies choosing to take a social and a political stand?

In the United States, some of the representatives of the fashion community have recently taken a stance more or less openly against the current President Donald Trump. A couple of months ago, Tom Ford was in limelight for controversial reasons. He allegedly tweeted his refusal to dress the FLOTUS (First Lady of The United States), calling her a thief and a glorified escort. Although he claimed that he hadn’t tweeted this statement at all, this event raised a lot of eyebrows. The incident lasted a few hours and the Twitter community was watching with piqued interest, as Tom Ford was to succeed Diane Von Furstenberg as the chairman to the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

Photography/ Fabrice Malard Art Direction / Naz Bokhari, Shria Nene Style / Mitalee Desphande, Diana Roberts Make up / Mila Militina Model / Ziyad Thupsee

FASHION AND POLITICS

Although he was not the author of the controversial tweet, he later stated in an interview that as a representative of America, the First Lady should be wearing garments produced in the country, which is not the case for his products. This corporate-political blur is not the only one on the fashion scene in the United States, as many retail organizations have boycotted Ivanka Trump’s products from their stores. One also cannot overlook the American sportswear brand Patagonia that has always been active on social and political scenes. Their case against the President accusing him of eliminating public land in Utah and Nevada is renowned.

FASHION AND POLITICS

A peek at the past two decades reveals the cause of fashion companies beginning to take a political stance. Twenty years ago, many companies weren’t openly supporting the social and political causes of the world, as they are today. It was all about profits. Political neutrality meant profits, no matter who ruled whom or how. A growth of a company seldom meant involvement in any social activity or political issues openly. Why is this previous decade (2000 – 2010) considered one of the most ground-breaking periods in corporate history? The answer is simple; because it witnessed the 4th industrial revolution and its power to reach the farthest and the most remote corners of the world, especially in the developing economies. One thing that increased around the globe with this revolution was the awareness of different political, social and environmental issues and their impact on every nation. This planted the idea of touching people’s emotions and sentiments as an important source of developing market credibility.

Taking a political and social stand is now in vogue. Some companies fear that if they don’t take part in this dialog, it will make their brand look unaware, insensitive, and irresponsible.

Establishing a firm position in the common mindsets was now starting to occur. This trend is rapidly gaining roots. Taking a political and social stand is now in vogue. Some companies fear that if they don’t take part in this dialog, it will make their brand look unaware, insensitive, and irresponsible. Many studies conducted by different research organizations also reveal that the millennial and the Generation Z consumers prefer those brands that are socially and politically active to those that are not. Brands preferring neutrality jeopardize their customers’ loyalty and their own growth in the fickle market. But, as Benjamin Franklin rightly said, “Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety.” Those brands that seize the opportunity of business and do not take a social or a political stand when the situation demands, will definitely be shunned. As the wave of activism is spreading far and wide, it is demanding a definite action as much by known brands as by the society itself. Consumers are now buying ideology along with clothing. Therefore, in the 21st century, it has become imperative for brands to take a stand and show their support to the right cause.

The founder of Toms, Blake Mycosie started the “End Gun Violence Together” initiative, where the company donated $5 million to various organizations demanding gun-safety legislations. After the tragedies that rocked the continent of North America, Gucci has also donated $500,000 to the “March for Our Lives” organization, known for its stance against gun violence. The North Face, who entered the America-Mexico border wall debate with their advertisement – “Walls are meant for climbing” and started a hashtag campaign with the same words.

FASHION AND MENTAL HEALTH

For a designer, the process of creation can be a remedy for the anxiety of mental conditions. In an interview for W24 Fashion, young designer Rebecca Carliste Jacob, from Cape Peninsula University of Technology, confines how she created her graduate collection based on her own mental health experience. Having been misdiagnosed with schizophrenia, and later re-diagnosed with depression, she explains that she had to overcome not only the stigma that comes with each of these diagnoses, but also the idea that she was mentally broken.

Consuming fashion can be extremely liberating. Power comes with spending money on yourself.

Mirror Image Words / Carmela Roberts

Her painful experience served as the inspiration for her collection. She recalls how before admitting herself to a psychiatric clinic, she bought a pair of pajamas that would make her feel comfortable in a foreign environment. The clothes that she later designed emulated the comfort and security that her pajamas gave her, while adhering to social norms of what one might actually wear to a nice dinner or a day out with friends. Jacob states, “I think fashion, like any creative discipline, has a role to play in creating positive discourse around issues like mental illness. I hoped that by bringing my own personal story to my collection, I could add to the ongoing essential conversation around these issues.” Undoubtedly, her designs were a way of healing herself from the difficult reality of being defined by a mental illness. Fashion label, Wear Your Label, is owned by business partners Kyle MacNevin and Kayley Reed, who are both living with mental illnesses- one with depression, anxiety, and ADHD, and the other is recovering from an eating disorder. They have taken these issues and have tried to educate people using fashion as a platform for positive change. “We chose a medium that’s famous for making people feel bad,’’ they say in reference to fashion. That is to say, when people try to fit into a fashion mold that does not serve them, they can feel terrible or riddled with self-doubt about their bodies or their lives. To flip this script, Wear Your Label partnered with Joe Fresh and presented their collection in New York Fashion Week, which used “role models” in lieu of professional runway models. Role models, in this instance, are people who have actually experienced or are experiencing life with a mental illness.

Your self-assurance is often presented through your style and fashion choices, in preparation for your social visibility, so that people at least have an idea about what you want them to know about you. Social visibility is the degree in which you are seen or unseen by others. It can be understood through the phenomenon of mirror staging: the process of conceptualizing your self-image and how other people perceive you visually. Social visibility is a part of the power that fashion holds.You construct your image, but once in public, the perception of your image is interpreted by the individuals that compose the public sphere.There is power in the presentation of self and there is power behind fashion. It makes one wonder if the power of fashion can help us with our mental state? Many unwritten stories share the liberating truth that fashion can bring a sense of well-being.Within the fashion schema, there are many modes and methods which can aid a psychological state. This means fashion can help your mental health through such actions as designing, organizing, shopping, self-reflecting, or even playing dress up.Taking pieces from an array of different experiences that people have had with fashion and how they’ve taken it to fit a positive change in their life is exactly the goal in using fashion to help stabilize mental health.

Photo / Fabrice Malard

Even the small details of their designs adhere to this brand code; inside of the garments, the tag of “how to care for your garment” includes suggestions or tips on “how to care for yourself.” As the brand was born from the need to talk about mental health issues, it has stayed consistent in using marketing and social media platforms to engage with people about this issue. This is a brand that cohesively spreads a message of acceptance and provides a space for those in need.

Psychologist and co-author of Enclothed Cognition, Adam Galinsky points out that when consuming fashion, it is crucial that you, “watch out for the idea of impairment,” referring to shopaholism, the Gucci Addiction, or compulsive purchasing. These are very real side effects to shopping and consumption and can be an attempt to fill an emotional void. The common connotation when thinking of the fashion industry, is that it poses threats to mental health. Anastasios Sofroniou, creative director, fashion marketing strategist, and professor at IFA Paris, mentions that the many influential designers and contributors in fashion have suffered from mental health issues. “Kate Spade, Alexander McQueen, Isabella Blow - they were all crucial parts of the amalgamation of the industry who became consumed by the unfortunate evil of the fashion world. It in part has to do with the dehumanizing aspect of worrying so much about profit”, when the line between the designer as an individual and the brand is blurred. Essentially these designers became their brand. The pressure and negative realities make it impossible for them to separate their personalities from the entities they’ve built.

Fashion can help your mental well-being even when you do not have a diagnosis.Your style is ultimately up to you.You decide which shapes make you feel the most comfortable or striking.You know which fabrics fit your body, which colors evoke the most positive energy from you, or which styles suit your desired look. For many, the education comes in part from shopping - the event of trying clothes on, shopping, and returning items. Consuming fashion can be extremely liberating. Power comes with spending money on yourself. Taking the time to understand what looks good on your body and what does not, and even investing in current trends to keep your style contemporary, are all amazing things that one can do to feel good. Consumer psychologist Kit Yarrow, when interviewed in VICE’s article “Expressing Myself Through Clothing Has Helped Me Deal with Depression”, makes a balancing point on the matter. “Compared to all of the other things people do to feel calm, to feel seen, to feel confident, [shopping] is really pretty healthy.” But watch out--as freeing as the consumption of fashion can be, it can also be just as stifling.

Fashion is part of your visual identity that can be used to communicate your story. The reflection of who we are surrounds us, as we see our image through the glass mirror, and through the eyes of others. As such, our image is usually perceived, as our fashion or sense of style. Our mental health is affected by how we think we are perceived and how we project the ways in which we want to be perceived. This tool can have either positive or negative effects on one’s mental health depending on how it is interpreted.

FASHION AND SOCIAL

“Gucci Apologizes For Black Balaclava Sweater That Resembles Blackface Caricatures” -Huffpost.com “Dolce & Gabbana Accused of Racism in New Campaign” – Independent.co.uk “Burberry Announces New Diversity Initiatives Following ‘Noose Hoodie’Incident” -Harpers’sBazaar.com

Ever since the crème de la crème of fashion brands were called out for putting forward products that were insensitive to certain cultures, the entire fashion community has been on its toes, waiting for another appropriation of an indigenous cultural practice by a renowned fashion house. It’s been an endless and repetitive cycle: a designer gets an inspiration from far-off lands, he takes bits and pieces that make sense to him and uses them in his collection, then he receives backlash from the masses, and finally apologizes and takes down the products. Oh wait, once we get over one such faux pas, there’s another one waiting right around the corner. But this time, the inspiration comes from a far-off land on the other side of the globe and is used by a different brand.

Analysing

The Eggshell Generation* Words/ Mitalee Deshpande Photo / Fabrice Malard Art Direction / Mitalee Deshpande Style / Naz Bokhari and Diana Roberts

Do you consider yourself a part of the millennial group? Do you see yourself sitting in front of a screen and disagreeing with the latest tweet by a designer from halfway across the world? Do you find yourself typing your conflicting belief, at the speed of light, to let the world know that you indeed support it in bringing down the said designer? If yes, this article is tailor made for you!

feel better only after digitally destroying the other person? Are we a little too sensitive about everything that concerns not only us but someone who may not even belong to our cultural group? Is there such a thing as being overly sensitive? Dr. Derrick Gay, an educational consultant on issues of diversity and inclusion, cultural competency, and global citizenship, states that as individuals, we have inherently different perspectives, therefore it is quite challenging to understand what the right amount of sensitivity is. “I have observed a dynamic today whereby there is a tendency to react before learning the full story. This is not to suggest that inequality, bias, prejudice, and horrible systems of oppression do not exist. I do feel, however, that there is sometimes a tendency to want to “act” without first analyzing the situation.”

In case of fashion brands, it is impossible to opt out even if it makes you uncomfortable; one must continue the journey until the world loses interest and moves on to another mistake.

And isn’t that what we do? As soon as we come across a post or a tweet that doesn’t resonate with our beliefs, we act out without even trying to understand what the context could be. There’s a reason why they call us “the eggshell generation”. It feels like we need to be walking on eggshells around each other to not hurt anyone’s sensitivity. It is true that each generation has its own triggers, but today’s generation is easily offended by any subject that might upset them.

Every time you try to understand the reason behind the backlash, you discover an ugly side of the truth, you assumed never existed (they don’t call it the ugly truth for no reason!). As you analyze it, you understand that the backlash did make sense. Even though the truth has absolutely no relation to your world, it does form a foundation for someone else’s… But doesn’t it sometimes feel a little too much? Is there really a need to be so aggressive in stating your opinions? Will we

*Warning: Extreme Sensitivity Detected! 47

FASHION AND SOCIAL

Everyone pretends to know almost everything, and if they don’t, all they have to do is ask Google. Out of 7.6 billion people, almost 3.5 billion are active social media users. While the voice of digital platforms gets stronger every day, it becomes difficult to hide the faux pas. Regarding the internet, Dr. Gay believes it is in some ways both a safe and a brave space. But he also says: “For as much safety as we have, we have an equal amount of yelling and screaming. What we don’t have is a pure brave space.” It is tough to have an opinion, because if the opinion is even a few degrees in the opposite direction of a significant portion of the society, one is shamed or bullied.

Having an opinion and stating it out loud is a very courageous move in today’s times because it feels like we’re all walking on eggshells around each other.

The faceless mob of the internet, also known as “the void”, is talented at making a mountain out of a molehill for almost any issue. It’s easy to hide behind bitmojis and profile names, because then you’re just a small part of a whole. And it also becomes easy to shift opinions based on what the mob believes. This entire concept bears resemblance with the latest Black Mirror episode, “Bandersnatch”. The more you try to dive into the details, the more it messes with your head.You inevitably make a mistake no matter what path you choose. However, with Black Mirror, you have an option of exiting the movie. In the case of fashion brands, it is impossible to opt out, even if the opinionated details make you uncomfortable. One must continue the journey until the world loses interest and moves on to another cultural appropriation. While I write this article, I can’t help but look back on this month’s events – Gucci being called out for their “Indy Turban”, Kim Kardashian’s Indian/Arabic inspired forehead jewellery, and Disney’s Aladdin actor Mena Massoud’s incident confusing Palestinian food with Israeli, all within weeks of each other. “People on all sides of arguments need to think before they write, and attempt to learn from different perspectives,” explains Dr. Gay. So the next time you’re strolling through your feed, watch out for those eggshells.

In Lounge

YOU ARE HERE

BEAUTY / 53 LIFESTYLE / 55 TRAVEL / 57

BEAUTY

How do we do this?

First admired by the wealthiest in ancient Egypt for hygiene purposes and then banned in the Middle Ages for religious concerns, today makeup is almost a diktat. A diktat you say?

We give ourselves the appearance we want to see, and we make believe that it’s our daily life. We choose the best angles for selfies. We post a nude makeup look with the hashtag #nofilter. We do an elaborate makeup look just to publish our “pic of the day”, and then remove the makeup soon after, because in reality there weren’t any plans to go out that day.

But how did we get here? Since the rise of social networks, we’ve been overexposed to so-called “perfect lives”, retouched selfies, beautifying filters that give you the flawless Barbie face and excessive use of FaceTune, the application which enhances your portraits on smartphones.

Holyghetto, an emerging YouTuber passionate about makeup, said in a video that when she happened to go out without makeup, people who have always seen her with it asked if she was alright or if she was sick. There goes the diktat. Makeup has become a standard, a standard that if not respected will reveal a problem. In the magical world of makeup, if something is wrong you can take your magic brush and wipe it off your face, and everything is fine! But what happens when the midnight bell rings and the magic fades?

With all these inevitable filters, a wrong self-image or an inferiority complex is quickly gaining momentum. The gap between what we see, what we aspire to be, and who we actually are leads us to comparisons and creates frustrations in our minds.

Making-up The Younger Generation Welcome to the 21st century, an era where makeup has taken over a major part of our daily lives, thanks to the rise of digital platforms.

The messages related to beauty sent through social media will stay the same, but the way in which the younger generation perceives the message can be reconsidered and filtered so it doesn’t affect their psychology. A gap between what they see in terms of beauty standards and what they live is normal, as we are all different. But trying to fill the gap between another person’s looks, personality or background and yours is something impossible. It is like trying to find a link between a pineapple and a zucchini. Comparing them would make no sense.

Social media give us a platform where everyone can be who they want.

In the past few months, we have seen the rise of the no makeup movement, where young people are breaking the codes of beauty and encouraging communities to embrace their true self, by being natural most of the time.

When we are frustrated because of hunger, we eat (healthy, please) and everything goes back to normal. It is quickly remedied. But what happens when you are frustrated with your physical appearance, the imperfections of your skin or shape, when you do not feel pretty enough, or when you do not meet the standards of beauty governed by the society surrounding us?

The songwriter and artist Alicia Keys has influenced many with this movement as she enters red carpets with a bare natural face. By not needing to conform to traditional beauty ideals surrounding makeup, Alicia Keys has found a new confidence and is a role model for women who feel like her.

For some, the answer would be to create a life for themselves. You might ask, “Create a life? Isn’t it technically God’s job?” Well, I’m talking about creating a life on social networks - an easier option. Social media give us a platform where everyone can be who they want.

What is next?

Words / Zeïnab Mémène Photo / Fabrice Malard Art Direction / Zeinab Memene Style / Alicia Delva Makeup / Manon Cana Model / Naz Bokhari

As we see the rising emancipation of a minority, willing to be free from the beauty diktat, we expect makeup to be used as the tool that will embellish who you are, instead of erasing your true self.

LIFESTYLE

Day 1

The Seven Day Brain Cleanse A week of cleaning out the internal clutter Words / Diana Roberts Photo / Fabrice Malard Art Director / Shria Nene

If we put plastic in the ocean, the output is plastic in our food. If the input in our brains is Netflix and Instagram, what’s the output?

If ever there was a day in which I would want to hide under a blanket with Netflix and a bottle of wine, this would be the day. It’s the first day of my cleanse, and I have an ice cream craving that is making me edgy. I meditated this morning, but by 5:00 in the evening all side effects have worn off, and I don’t want to go to yoga (or at least, my appropriated workout based on Indian yoga practice). I will stay home and do my interval workout, eat my quinoa salad, and sleep this day off. Day 2 It has been a bit strange cutting out social media. I thought it would be easy for me. While I am an avid Instagrammer, I feel like I am not as connected to it as other people in my peer group. But so far, it has surprised me. I found that when I was on my phone, after checking my email, my finger was naturally drawn to the Instagram app. I wouldn’t even realize it until someone’s random picture was up on my screen. I would freak out and exit out of the app as quickly as possible. But the damage was done. I already wanted to read the caption under the picture of Amy Schumer’s husband holding their new baby. I just found it so strange how impulsive it was for my finger to go to Instagram app, without my brain even being conscious of it. What other things in my life are like that?

Day 5 All aspects of this experiment have gotten easier, and I feel as if it is already a habit. My fingers do not instinctively long for the Instagram app. With not being on Netflix and Instagram I have noticed how much more time I have. Besides continuing the cleanse of my body and my mind, I also deep cleaned my apartment. I deep cleaned my apartment today, in addition to working out, reading, and meditating. This must be what adulting feels like. Day 6

Day 4

I am in a genuine good mood. I can definitely notice a difference when I have positive input in my life. My overall self-image has improved, as I’m not hiding my guilty pleasures (like binging Riverdale for three hours, eek!) People can notice a difference in me, as well. One of my classmates commented, that it is like I have light shining on my face.

I noticed my mood has been better today, although to be honest, I slept most of the day. Luckily, it’s Sunday. I made myself breakfast and did my workout based on Indian yoga practice. Now with a cup of chamomile tea, I will read and meditate myself to sleep. Namaste.

Day 7

Day 3

The last day of the cleanse, and I feel good, but the ice cream craving is definitely back. Another thing giving me anxiety is the little number of unread notifications in the corner of the Facebook app. It is now at 21. What if it is something important? Can I really wait another 24 hours?

Nice day. I made myself quinoa and lentils for dinner. Did my interval training, read for a bit, and met with my neighbor to go to a gay bar, and danced the night away. Making plans without social media was difficult, as he included me in a group Instagram chat to finalize the plan. I had to message him separately and let him know I was taking a social media cleanse. I was also sober at a club, which actually didn’t hinder my good time, until someone pushed me out of their way on a set of stairs.

The morning after.

Fashion is the way in which we dress our exteriors, to give the impression that we are living our best lives. But what about the parts of ourselves that the world doesn’t necessarily get to see, the food in our guts, the monkey chatter in our minds and our guilty pleasures, like the wasted hours we spend binging Netflix or scrolling through Instagram, watching the highlight reel of other people’s lives, while our lives are passing us by. If someone were to see our inner dark corners, how fashionable would they find them?

Straight to Facebook to clear the notifications. Strangely enough, none of the notifications were that relevant to me and my life. Without social media I felt out of touch, but to be honest, nothing really changed on social media in a week, except for, of course, if you’re James Charles. I’m sad to say I went down a YouTube black hole for a few hours and got all caught up with the James Charles drama, and probably reversed all the good effects of my cleanse in a single sitting. But I do think this experience will have lasting affects, and force me to be more mindful in all areas of my life from what I eat, to the content I allow to enter my brain. I hope it will become more of a lifestyle, and not just that time I didn’t check Instagram for a week. As far as how fashionable my insides are, I must quote Cher Horowitz and say, “they’re ‘not a total Betty, but a vast

I wanted to explore this idea and bring to light the little habits we hide and see what would happen if they changed, even for a week. So for one week I ate a vegan and gluten free diet. I didn’t drink alcohol or watch Netflix. I read and meditated daily. But most extremely, I didn’t go on social media for an entire week! My goal was to see where I would be a week later, if I just changed these little habits. How much more time would I gain? With social media, the mind is pulled in countless different directions, like a cloud in the wind, and we have no say over which direction the wind blows. I wanted to see if a phone detox would really make a difference. So I started this holistic cleanse experiment to return to mindfulness, in all of the unseen areas of my life. 55

improvement’”. 56

TRAVEL AND STYLE

Occasion / Rain, Storm

Fashion Guide to Surviving Paris

Location / Montmartre Style / Edgy & Artsy

Imagine, you’ve just sat down on a sunny day for the perfect picnic in front of the Eiffel Tower.You are just about to enjoy your charcuterie and wine, and then you feel a drop of rain. Within seconds comes the torrential downpour. Any given day in Paris you can experience all types of weather. It can be so sporadic that you can’t trust the forecast, so you must always be prepared for precipitation. Rule # 1: don’t freak out. Casually reach for your small umbrella, which you should always carry in your bag. It is best to dress in layers to prepare for all conditions. You can wear a nice t-shirt, buttoned-up shirt, or blouse underneath a cotton or light wool sweater. To keep it chic, trench coats are a must in Paris.

If you are up for the challenge, you will learn the best fashion tips to not only not feel like a tourist, but to conquer this city like a true Parisian with chic, effortless grace.

In the 10th arrondissement of Paris, the Montmartre area, is where you will find the hip artsy bohemian girls, the ones who frequent museums, and are cultured and cool. If you will be spending time in the Montmartre area, be sure to look creative but not like you tried too hard. This area is perfect for that fringed ensemble you’ve been hiding in the closet. Add a dash of color with some accessories to make a bold statement.

Words / Kristen Glover & Diana Roberts

Location / Champ Elysses, Saint Germain des Pres Style / Chic & Classy

Occasion / Packed Metro These are the affluent areas of Paris.You will know if a Parisian belongs to this area, because they will be the first to tell you. As far as their fashion is concerned, they will most likely be wearing designer pieces, but no tacky logos. The best advice we can give you when dressing for this area is to keep it simple yet classy. The perfect accessory for this area, to give your outfit a little flair, would be a square scarf. If you’re wondering where the Parisian ladies get their vibrant scarves, look no further than the emerging brand Amedee 1851. They sell beautiful printed scarves that are quickly gaining momentum due to their versatility and their ability to complete almost any outfit.

Planning a trip to the City of Light? You should know that life in Paris is not all baguettes and macaroons. In this city, you can be confronted with a wide range of circumstances that are not always postcard perfect. So how to pack for such an adventure? Well, you’ll need more than a beret and a pretty skirt. When planning your capsule wardrobe to pack for a trip to Paris, the first thing you should know is that while Paris is a relatively small city it is composed of different areas that can be worlds apart, style-wise.Therefore, it is important to consider where you will be spending most of your time so as not to stick out like a sore thumb, or worse an American.

Location / Le Marais Style / Hip & Chic Do not be afraid to wear a print, unless of course it’s winter. In winter we wear black. The Marais is going to be a place for the young hip chic Parisian. Feel free to express a little personal style if you are going to be staying here. One outfit idea would be a leopard print dress with a red leather jacket. This demonstrates that you are stylish and unique, but not so unique that people will stare at you from their seat in a Marais café.

One thing you should know if you want to get around Paris like a true Parisian is that you will need to take a Metro. Underneath the beautiful architecture and the glamorous boulevards is a gritty crowded underground. You should be forewarned: most of the metro stations smell like pee.Although a new metro train comes generally every five minutes they can get very packed very fast. So prepare to get intimately close with a Parisian stranger. This is again when your layers are going to come in handy. It can be cold and rainy above ground, but in a packed, un air conditioned metro it can get hot! Also, to make the metro more comfortable, we suggest wearing flats. Avoid heels as they could be hazardous. A good outfit to pair with your flats would be a blue and white-stripped sweater with black jeans. Top it off with red lipstick to add an exciting element to the outfit.

Occasion / Protest Out Break French people have a long history of protesting. They love a good demonstration, and it is very much a part of their culture. The newest chapter in this history would be the infamous “yellow vest” protests. The French people first started marching because of the high taxes on oil. Now it has spread to demonstrations against the political class. If you get caught in a protest, you have to decide whether you want to join or not. If you don’t want to be mistaken for a protester avoid wearing neon yellow. If you think it would be fun to take part in the revolution, a good outfit would be something simple and durable. A silver stud embellished blue jean jacket with a white t-shirt underneath paired with black jeans is the perfect outfit. Lastly, shoes should be Dr. Martens boots, which are super comfortable, and will make you look like you belong.

With this checklist, you’re all set to meander along the Seine. Just don’t fall in, because no one will jump in to save you. #JustLikeaParisian!

Photo / Fabrice Malard Art Director: Zeinab Memene Stylist: Alicia Delva Assistant Stylist: Kristen Glover

IN STORE

Front Cover Top / Personal Items Black & Tan Pants | Chen-Ting Liu Grey Pants / Chen-Ting Liu

Page 40 Poncho / Chen-Ting Liu Unapologetically Political Page 41 – 44 Suit & Vest / Safa Yahiaalmakki All Other Clothing / Personal Items Shoes / Personal Items

Page 1 & 2 Scarf / Amedee 1851 Top / Personal Item Amedee Ad Page 4 Throw Blanket / Amedee 1851 Top / Personal Item Pants / Personal Item

Mirror Image Page 45 & 46 Tops / Personal Items Shattered Mirror / Babou The Eggshell Generation Page 47 Dress / Liu Bag / Rukhtam Shoes / Personal Item

Page 9 & 10 All Clothing by Designer / Anatasia Selivanova Page 13 - 16 All Clothing by Designer / Xeina Telunts

Page 49 & 50 Denim Top & Pants / Rukhtam Designer for Outfit (denim) / Rukhtam Shoes / Personal Item Making up the Younger Generation

Rooted In Textile Page 17- 20 Clothing / Personal Items Flowers / Monceau Fleurs Page 27 Top: Personal Item Headphones: Beats by Dr. Dre

Page 53 Flowers / Les Bouquets d’Aster Top / Personal Item The Seven Day Brain Cleanse

The Style of Sound Page 29- 32 Clothing / Personal Items Sync or Sink Editorial

Page 55 Fork Ikea Plate / Conforama Items on plate / Evian and Nestle bottles

Page 35 & 36 Yellow & Black/ White Vest / Chen-Ting Liu Pants / Personal Items

Fashion Guide to Surviving Paris Page 58 Jumpsuit / Jessica Khanna Boots / Jeffrey Campbell Purse / LPA

Page 37 & 38 Dark and Light Grey Blazers / Jean Marc Black Tops: Personal Items Pants / Personal Items Shoes / Personal Items

Page 60 Top / Personal Item

Page 39 Black Sheer Top / COMME des GARCONS Brown Sheer Top / Chen-Ting Liu Pants / Personal Items Shoes / Personal Items

BACK COVER Poncho / Chen-Ting Liu

Malleable Me 30/05/2019

Photo / Fabr ice Malard Ar t Direction / Naz Bokhar i Diana Rober ts Mitalee Deshpande Make-Up / Manon Cana Models / Aki Takeda