Will Ethical Fashion ever be accepted within the mainstream fashion industry? Jessica Ding Project Research DE0929
Contents > 3 Introduction > 5 Methodology > 7
Chapter One
Defining Ethical and Sustainable Fashion
> 11
Chapter Two
Mapping Ethical Fashion as a Subculture
> 15
Chapter Three
Who buys Ethical Fashion?
> 19
Chapter Four
Social Labeling
> 21
Chapter Five
Social Marketing and Linguistic Relativity
> 23
Chapter Six
Can Ethical Fashion become Mainstream?
> 29
Chapter Seven
Findings and Analysis
A DIRECTION FOR THE FUTURE
> 31 Conclusion > 33 References > 37 Bibliography
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Introduction
The fashion industry is many things to a number of different people and todays research suggests that the media and industry alike, constantly inform consumers that todays mainstream fashion is one-dimensional. However, there are areas within fashion that need targeting. Research in this document will examine and explore another direction in fashion; ethical fashion. Ethical fashion is currently seen as a subculture within the mainstream of the fashion industry due to the differing views and intentions. As a way of the future, ethical fashion needs to be accepted in the mainstream of the industry to have a successful impact on consumers and their purchasing behaviour. The fashion industry is constantly evolving, fast fashion is king of the high street due to the recession but consumers want staple pieces for their wardrobes; items that will last beyond one season with the appealing and affordable price tag. With the right promotion and communication ethical fashion can be a way of the future, a lifestyle rather than a trend. This document will explore the key relationships between ethical and mainstream fashion as well as its challenges from both consumers and industry, which can influence change.
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Methodology
Primary Research; interviews will be carried out with relevant contributors including designers, researchers, directors and consumers around the topic of ethical fashion. All questions will be the same yet relevant to their working role. Focus groups will be held targeting both fashion and non-fashion students questioning their consumer behaviour and personal ethical beliefs. Gathering interview and focus group data results will have a strong rounded impact on the research proposal focusing both on consumers and industry to pinpoint where the change needs to come in order to make ethical fashion mainstream. Websites; such as the Ethical Fashion Forum and Eco-Age will be used as part of the secondary research helping to pull together different angles. Articles from online and print will be read and highlighted as well as journals and data. Mintel will be used for accurate data regarding the ethical living, fast fashion and consumer purchasing behaviour. Books on ethical fashion, consumerism, ethical living and social marketing will be sourced.
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Chapter One: Defining Ethical and Sustainable Fashion
These terms are detached from the mainstream fashion market and therefore are yet to be fully adopted by brands and consumers. Many television programmes and articles have named and shamed companies who use sweatshops and child labour for the production of their garments. Although this remains an issue within the industry, it is one that has been targeted and measures are being taken to improve the working conditions. This report will not focus on this area of ethics. The aim of this research is to explore how ethical fashion can become more mainstream, by educating manufacturers, retailers and consumers on the importance of protecting social and environmental values.
Ethical Fashion is often used as an umbrella term representing a design and production method considering environmental and social impacts. However, this is often confused with sustainable fashion. Sustainable Fashion focuses on environmental impacts aiming to reduce waste, devastation and pollution. Although the two terms cross paths they represent separate values. (See Appendix 3) There are no set definitions or rules for ethical and sustainable fashion; it is dependent on the individual’s perception. Kate Fletcher (2012), reader in sustainable fashion at the centre for sustainable fashion, London College of Fashion supports this point by stating that ‘A single definition is unlikely to be meaningful to everyone’. (See Appendix 2) However, Doug Miller (2012) Professor of working rights in fashion suggests that, ethical fashion always relates to ‘workers rights and decent working conditions’, but also highlights a problem with sustainable fashion, as he believes that ‘workers rights are subdued within the process’. (See Appendix 7) He believes both issues are separate, but through research he has found that ‘Companies are much more willing to address sustainability than they are worker rights and conditions.’ (See Appendix 7) This is due to the negativity that follows ethical fashion, retailers would rather become sustainable as it is easier to access positive media.
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Currently Ethical Fashion Week runs once a year within Europe. (See Appendix 5) Although it is not as popular or widespread as regular fashion weeks it still helps to spread the word around the issue. Due to funds and location of the event the marketing only reaches a small number of consumers. These consumers are already aware of ethical fashion as an issue. Therefore the event needs to become more established in order to have any real impact. Nina Marenzi (2012), Director of the Sustainable Angle believes that ethical fashion week should be integrated into regular fashion week ‘If the product or fashion is good enough then there is no reason why it should be separate from regular fashion week.’ (See Appendix 7) Whereas Alana James (2012) PHd student in Ethical Fashion, believes the industry still has a long way to go before integrating, “In an ideal world I don’t think there should be any difference.” (See Appendix 7) Integration of both fashion weeks is a route that could be considered in order to help ethical fashion become accepted within the mainstream. Esethica, is an example of ethical fashion linked with regular fashion week. Showcasing 15 ethical designers each year since 2006. Due to its success Esethica has become ‘the hub of London’s ethical fashion industry’. (See Appendix 5) This is a successful starting point for integration between both ethical and regular fashion and raising awareness around the issue. Future Fabrics Expo, is another example of an ethical and sustainable event. Helping to promote innovative and commercial fabrics with sustainable and ethical techniques. The event is promoted through social networking sites facebook and twitter, allowing the expo to reach wider target audiences. This will hopefully create awareness of ethical fashion and fabrics to consumers, retailers and designers. (See Appendix 5) Future Fabrics Expo is run by The Sustainable Angle a non-profit organisation that focuses on lowering the environmental impact through innovation within industry. This is a current platform, which encourages designers, buyers and researchers to use ethical fabrics throughout the process of creating garments. Through development and integration this type of platform will be able to encourage and inform consumers as well as designers into a more ethical future.
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However, Kate Fletcher (2012) clearly notes that ethical fashion will always remain ‘somewhat anachronistic if the mass market remains unchanged’. (See Appendix 2) Consumers need to be educated in order for ethical fashion to enter the mass market as they have the most power and influence upon stores. Yet manufacturers and retailers need to adapt to consumers want for change as well as influencing consumers into the right direction, rather than constantly providing them with low quality, fast fashion garments. If consumers push for environmentally friendly garments then stores will eventually have to adopt this practice and change their business model. Alana James supports this point, by saying ‘It needs to come from both sides, retailers have a lot of power and influence consumers but equally consumers have power that they’re not quite aware of to be able to change things within the industry. If industry wanted to make a difference and build ethical philosophies into their business and change the way they run then they could, or they could at least start too.’ (See Appendix 7) This has been proven by Marks and Spencer (M&S) who created Plan A back in 2007, aiming to make 100 social and environmental commitments by 2012. Report (2012) shows that Marks and Spencer now have 180 commitments and have already achieved 138, making them the high streets most sustainable retailer. In 2007, Plan A cost £40million to set up in the first year, it became cost neutral in the second and by 2011/2012 Plan A was delivering a net benefit of £105million. (See Appendix 4)
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Chapter Two: Mapping Ethical Fashion as a Subculture
Carry Somers (2012) Founder of Pacachuti; worlds first certified fair trade company, believes that “successful ethical brands are already mainstream and have survived the current climate of the recession, this is caused by selling products to mainstream companies and department stores”, this suggests that Pacachuti are differentiating themselves outside the ethical bubble to help integrate within the mainstream. (See Appendix 7) Whereas Kate Fletcher (2012) argues that the mainstream fashion industry needs to change to accept ethical as a way of the future rather than as a separate issue. (See Appendix 2) This suggests that the mainstream needs to change their business plans to be more accepting of ethical fashion, as it is currently a direction consumers are not familiar with. Integration through the mainstream will make consumers more aware helping ethical to become more of a norm within the industry.
Subculture is defined as a culture separate to the main association; this is often because of different beliefs compared to the main culture. Ethical Fashion is often referred to as a separate proposal, sometimes believed as a trend but it is never classed as the norm within fashion. Ethical Fashion is a separate platform, directing consumers in a different almost challenging way asking them to think about their purchases. As research for this document focus groups were arranged, including both fashion and non-fashion students. Each group was asked to comment on their understanding of ethical fashion compared to their usual buying habits. (See Appendix 8) The results from both groups highlighted that ethical fashion is advertised in the wrong way, promoting the term ethical excessively rather than the garments. This approach to advertising resulted in the participants feeling intimidated, underlining the negative aspects of the topic separating it from mainstream fashion. When asked the question ‘What needs to change within the fashion industry to make ethical more appealing to you?’ Participant 3 of the fashion group stated “Not to use the term ethical as any means of promotion, if it is an ‘ethical skirt’ it should be sold as a ‘skirt’ and in the background ‘ethically made’.” (See Appendix 8)
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Figure 1: Do you purchase ethical clothing? Focus group results.
Results from the focus group demonstrated that ethical fashion needs more positive advertising together with awareness. Over 80% of the participants do not purchase ethical garments, concluding that they did not know where to purchase them, but also did not know enough about the topic to commit to a purchase. (See Appendix 8) Consumers from the focus group said they wouldn’t know where to look for ethical clothing and when shopping they wouldn’t go out with the intention to purchase an ethical product. Doug Miller (2012) states that ‘consumers are fickle’ supporting this, he believes that there is a hierarchy to which consumers follow when purchasing: 1. Price 2. Style 3. Quality. (See Appendix 7) The top 3 are a priority but labour conditions are an after thought for consumers, as it doesn’t directly effect them and their purchases. This is because of the current financial climate and stores such as Primark who give consumers the option to shift the criteria around making cost and style a priority over ethical issues.
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Chapter Three: Who buys Ethical Fashion?
Although attitudes are changing there still remains a stigma attached to ethical fashion and the suggestion that only ‘hippies’ ‘free-will’ and ‘green’ people purchase ethical products. However consumers are becoming more sustainable and aware of the future. When asking the question ‘What is your understanding of ethical fashion’. Both focus groups responded with words such as ‘hemp’, ‘green’ and ‘boring’. This suggests that awareness of the change within ethical fashion needs to be widespread between fashion students and regular consumers, this holds significant benefits for marketing, academia and industry. (See Appendix 8) Fashion Student (Participant 4) stated ‘It’s not as stuffy as it used to be. I don’t think of luxurious clothing when I think ethical fashion, I consider a lot of basic clothing; staples for your wardrobe rather than lavish eveningwear.’ (See Appendix 8) However, since 2008 Livia Firth undertook the green carpet challenge, bringing sustainable and ethical fashion to the red carpet helping to make ethical less of a niche. This influences designers to think of ways to make their designs more ethically and sustainably suitable for the future. In September 2012, Livia Firth created the project ‘Green Cut’ pairing eight established fashion designers with eight British films to raise awareness of ethical fashion. All designers followed a criterion to raise the profile of ethical and sustainability. Designers such as Tom Ford and Jonathan Saunders were involved with the collection.
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Ethical fashion is developing with the times and moving forward. However, it has been proven from research that there is a need for change in order for ethical to lose the negative stigma. A Mintel report (2009) shows that one in ten believe ethical clothing is more expensive and three in ten say they wouldn’t buy it if they could afford it. (See Appendix 2) This supports what the focus group stated as the majority of participants responded by suggesting that they wouldn’t go out of their way to purchase ethical fashion, especially if it wasn’t their usual style. (See Appendix 8) According to Auger and Devinney (2007) despite their ethical intentions, ethically minded consumers rarely purchase ethical products. This has been proven by a study which found that 30% of consumers would purchase ethically but only 3% actually do purchase, leaving 27% aware of ethical products yet not actually purchasing (Futerra 2005). (See Appendix 6) This leads on to the intention behaviour gap which Auger and Devinney (2007) argue is due to social desirability, many consumers are ethically minded and do go shopping with the intention to purchase ethical products. However, retail competiveness and availability tempts consumers away from original purchasing intentions.
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Belk (1975) suggests that the intention-behaviour gap is dependent on situational context and indicates five central factors: 1.
Physical Surroundings – This is product placement and visibility compared to competitive products and price proximity.
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Social Surroundings – This considers the people and their role involved within the purchase as well as any interactions that may occur.
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Temporal Perspective – All time related aspects to the situation – time limit, time of day, time since last purchase.
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Task Definition – The purpose of the product with regards to the individual.
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Antecedent States – The momentary mood of the consumer, budgets and intention of purchase.
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Figure 2: The translation of ethical consumption into actual behaviour (Belk 1975) Figure 2 details the factors that influence consumers to consume ethically comparing primary intention to secondary intention. Consumers with primary intention to purchase ethical fashion will change their lifestyles by planning their purchases beforehand. Whereas, consumers with secondary intention of ethical consumption are impulse buyers, who purchase spontaneously. Secondary consumers are more likely to be effected by the intention-behaviour gap and their purchases will be influenced by social desirability’s and the social context of which they are purchasing within.
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Chapter Four: Social Labeling Social Labeling provides consumers with the information needed on human rights, working conditions and the country of production. This information helps consumers with ethical considerations before making a purchase. The labels help to provide assurance to consumers along with further information to understand what they are purchasing. In America 1899 the ‘white label’ was introduced around 13 American states, assuring consumers that women’s and children’s cotton underwear was manufactured under decent working conditions. The label read “Made under clean and healthful conditions…use of label authorized after investigation.” This was discontinued in 1918 when labels sponsored by trade unions came into widespread use. (Janet Hilowitz) Marks and Spencer attempted to integrate social labeling in their business in 2006. They launched a campaign ‘Look Behind the Label’ providing information on the responsibility of their products throughout all stores and garments. According to Stuart Rose CEO (2006), “Customers care more than ever how products are made.” The follow up of this business plan cannot be found and therefore the findings cannot be analysed. (See Appendix 4) This is supported by results from the focus groups where participants believed that industry should integrate ethical information into products. Participants would rather the information be provided on the garments upon the label rather than promoting it around the stores in separate sections to mainstream fashion. They believed that they could make their own decisions upon ethical issues rather than it being forced upon them. (See Appendix 8) Social Labeling is a way to make ethical fashion more integrated within the mainstream. It has been proved in research through focus groups that consumers need more information about the garment and the conditions before committing to purchasing. Social Labeling is a route that could be taken into consideration to provide consumers with this information whilst shopping; with this communication consumers may eventually integrate ethical fashion within their hierarchy of needs.
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Chapter Five: Social Marketing and Linguistic Relativity Social Marketing delivers and communicates benefits that a target audience wants in exchange for audience behaviour that benefits society. (Bill Smith 2006). Effective social marketing focuses on the wants and needs of the consumer and society to improve the health and well being rather than providing them with unwanted products to satisfy retailers. This leads onto linguistic relativity, which focuses on the structure of language and how this can affect the ways in which it influences consumers. The link between language and thought, can determine the cognitive processes of an individual. The use of linguistic relativity if used correctly, could influence the change within consumer purchasing behaviour.
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Since the recession in 2008, consumers appear to be now purchasing large quantities of low value clothing rather than fewer garments of a higher quality from stores such as Primark. Mintel (2009) reported a growth of 6% of cheap clothing increasing the value up to ÂŁ8.1 billion. This shift within industry has been labeled the ‘fast fashion’ movement, which brings catwalk inspired garments to the high street as quickly and cheaply as possible. (See Appendix 2) Mintel (2007) found that 68% of consumers were concerned with green issues yet not all of these purchase ethically. In a consumer driven industry, it is purchasing behaviour that needs to change in consumers in order for anything to transform in society. The communication between both consumer and retailer can control the purchasing behaviour for the better. The application of social marketing and the strength of communication through linguistic relativity could prompt an adoption with ethical fashion. In order for this to happen the retailer must become customer orientated and include factors through promotion to encourage and inform consumers. However, the lack of awareness and knowledge of ethical fashion from consumers appears to be the key issue. The communication between consumers and retailers needs to improve in order for ethical fashion to become the norm within the industry and society.
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Chapter Six: Can Ethical Fashion become mainstream?
Ethical Fashion is known as a separate style or trend compared to the mainstream. Consumers feel that they are unaware of the situations in the market, whereas industry believes that not enough is being focused upon the topic. Marks and Spencer (2012) launched ‘Plan A’ in 2007 as they believed ‘ethical and sustainability are both moral and commercial imperative.’ (See Appendix 4) The business case started with 100 social and environmental commitments (mentioned in chapter 1) and was updated again in 2010 adding 80 further commitments to continue to challenge the brand. As a company Marks and Spencer (2012) stated ‘Unless we respond to social, environmental and economical pressures of the future, not only will we struggle to compete, we may also struggle to survive.’ (See Appendix 4) Anne Brennan (2012) fashion tutor at Nottingham Trent University, on the topic of Plan A believes ‘The involvement from M&S Plan A has helped open the opportunities to smaller companies. When you have a big brand like M&S the next step forward is sustainability and making a difference and because they are making it happen smaller companies can benefit it’s a domino effect.’ (See Appendix 7) M&S are now the most sustainable and ethical retailer on the high street yet when asking the focus group what they knew about ‘Plan A’ their responses were surprising. The majority of participants both fashion and non-fashion students hadn’t heard of the business case at all yet those who had heard of it were unsure as to what it was. Participant 4 (fashion student) ‘I have heard of Plan A but I don’t know what areas it covers or where it comes into with regards to ethical fashion.’ (See Appendix 8) The research shows that even though Marks and Spencer is the most sustainable retailer on the high street, it still isn’t targeting all consumers. This could be another reason that Plan A isn’t being adopted by other retailers. The consumers within the focus group were students and therefore this is only a section of the market. However, they are the generation of the future and therefore need to be aware of the environmental and human issues; in order for the fashion industry to move forward and accept ethical within the mainstream.
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Plan A is just one example of retailers trying to become more ethical and sustainable within industry. The success of the business plan over the past 5 years will hopefully entice smaller retailers to adopt the theory in commitment to become more ethical. Nina Marenzi (2012), stated that in order for ethical fashion to become more mainstream ‘it needs to become more of a business sense rather than demands from consumers.’ (See Appendix 7) In a consumer driven industry retailers need to take the lead and provide consumers with ethical garments as well as information to explain their reason for providing these products. Retailers need to respond to social and environmental pressures of the future in order to survive, ethical fashion is a way of living for the future and this theory needs to be adopted to make change. Alana James (2012) believes that ‘both retailers and consumers need to adapt to ethical as a way of living because both sides have power of the future but they need to put this power into action.’ (See Appendix 7) Events such as Ethical Fashion Week and Future Fabrics Expo are already being held as a way to promote ethical fashion (See Appendix 5), however these events are separate from regular fashion exhibits and therefore do not get the coverage they deserve. Integrating these events into the mainstream of the industry would help to inform consumers on the topic as well as making ethical more of a norm within society. Doug Miller (2012) states that ‘ethical fashion should be fully integrated within teaching, research and everything that students do.’ (See Appendix 7) This point is supported by Emma Prince (2012), Fashion tutor at Nottingham Trent University ‘It should be embedded within students learning, up until now they have only been drip fed yet I feel that if it was integrated into the specification of modules then future fashion students would be aware of it and realise that it is possible to make a difference.’ (See Appendix 7) From a consumer angle, both fashion and non-fashion students believe that ethical should be integrated within the mainstream. Participant 5 (fashion student) ‘In theory everything should be ethical and things should be sold in the future as ethical. If everything is ethical then nobody will know a difference, it will be about style and aesthetics.’ (See Appendix 8)
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Chapter Seven: Findings and Analysis
The findings from this research document have shown that lack of communication between consumers and retailers has led to ethical fashion becoming a subculture of regular fashion. When asked ‘Why don’t you purchase ethical fashion’ the majority of participants from the focus group responded by saying it was too expensive and they were unsure where to find it. (See Appendix 8) If consumers were made more aware of the positive side to ethical fashion, together with an improved visual appeal the participants agreed that they would purchase the products. The retailers need to make changes in their business plan to accept ethical fashion as a way of the future. Marks and Spencer ‘Plan A’ has been a successful business case since 2007 and is continuing to grow to guide consumers into a better way of living. This should encourage other retailers amongst the high street to relook at and change their business plan.
According to Marks and Spencer (2012) ‘Consumers want to be inspired, engaged and valued by retailers’, (See Appendix 4) ethical and sustainable is a way of living in the future with economical and social pressures retailers need to respond to the wants of consumers. Brands need to inform but still inspire consumers whilst providing them with a direction into a new way of living. Consumers agreed that if ethical fashion was promoted positively with regular mainstream fashion then they would be more likely to purchase the product as they wouldn’t feel forced into buying the garments.
The M&S financial report from 2012 found that due to the recession consumers are purchasing items that will last beyond one season, they are looking for quality but equally priced. Ethical Fashion is seen as too expensive compared to ‘fast fashion’, which is currently ruling the high street. Changes need to be made within retail to make consumers aware that the few extra pounds they spend on the ethical fashion, will not only benefit the world yet the quality of the garment will last beyond the season.
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Chapter Eight: Conclusion
The report has identified that for ethical fashion to become mainstream, the communication requires delivering to a broader audience. Consumers stated they would prefer retailers to promote their garments rather than the retailer promoting ethical values. However, this could be achieved through social labeling which will provide consumers with the relevant information required. Having undertaken interviews with industry professionals, results have highlighted that ethical fashion should be taught to students across a number of industries. With the results of making the students more aware of social and environmental issues related to manufacturing products. The research also highlighted that ethical fashion could be an opportunity to re-direct areas of the fashion industry. Company business plans have previously failed due to the separation of ethical fashion from mainstream fashion. This could be overcome by integrating ethical values into the whole fashion product supply chain but also for companies to have ethical values within their business plans. Successful platforms such as M&S (Plan A) and The Sustainable Angle are helping to guide and inform consumers to the values and benefits of ethical fashion. These concepts are not new but could be developed further through integration with social marketing and linguistic relativity helping to remove the intention behaviour gap. The newly developed platform could help create a prominent and effective route for consumers to follow towards an ethical lifestyle. Word Count - 4,161
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References in Images
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