Antiqued opulence by Jessica Greene

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EDITOR & CHIEF JESSICA GREENE

Off.

A Future Trend Briefing

MENS & WOMENS

SPRING SUMMER 2016

ANTIQUED OPULENCE A TRENDS THAT COMES LACED IN DRAMA AND ROMANCE

MEN’S A ND WOMEN’S SS16 TREND FORECAST

PREFACE 4 INTRODUCTION 5 TREND DRIVERS 6-7 TREND BRIEFING 8 - 33 PANTONES 34 MATERIALS 35 TREND TAKEAWAYS 36 REFERENCES 37 -

PRE FACE People’s desire to belong — through blending in fuels the growing lack of distinction between different kinds of people, when looking at style and dress. Therefore this Spring Summer 2016 trend; Antiqued Opulence, endeavours to provide a direct antithesis to mainstream fashion, by highlighting counter cultural shifts taking place. By bringing to light these social movements individuals are encouraged to express their inner creativity and thought, and as a result redefine what is considered ‘on-trend’ and ‘off-trend.’ A cultural shift is taking place: against the landscape of cautious global economic recovery, consumers are moving from frugality to opulence. Post-recession, luxury design is more considered as consumers become increasingly sophisticated and tastes diversify. The traditional image of the luxury consumer in China, the Middle East and Russia is now being redefined as such consumers become younger and more sophisticated. They seek out labels that are rich historically, culturally and socially — as they yearn to buy into the heritage of the label. Heritage and deep rooted history of designer labels provides a prestige persona and therefore the desire from consumers to buy into its rich history for a sense of opulence. Antiqued Opulence provides an alternative to the minimalist Spring Summer 2016 trend developed by trend forecasting agencies operating in a crowded marketplace.

INTR ODUC T I ON Modern Peasant; the Spring Summer 2016 trend forecasted by trend agency; Trendstop.com, is characterised by a certain ‘folksy’ element that is updated to coincide with a modern aesthetic. However, Modern Peasant fails to integrate the cultural shift that is taking place: against the landscape of cautious global economic recovery, consumers are moving from frugality to opulence. Therefore Antiqued Opulence refers to a medieval style to personify a deep rooted rich opulence, that intertwines with today’s new wave of consumers. Modern Peasant comprises of minimal colourways, whereas Antiqued Opulence divulges in deep rich colours of maroon gold and sapphire. Modern Peasant sees a stripped back spring style, but for the early adopters, and those who see the world through a different lens, Antiqued Opulence is a bold, rich statement based in the far past, however its understanding of today’s cultural consumer shift; stamps a new relevance and take on Spring Summer fashion. This Spring Summer 2016 trend comes laced in drama and romance, personified by voluminous shapes, rich textures and colour palettes. Luxuriously rich, this trend offers an alternative to those who are brave enough to stand out.

TREND DRIVERS —

Chad Wys: Marie-Antoinette Neon

Charlotte Knowles: Graduate Fashion Week

Food producers and supermarkets are now offering products once conceived as for the rich only, repackaged and priced for a broader consumer base.

Laurie Harding Esquire November 2014 Issue

Christopher Shannon’s first womenswear collection. For his first foray into this market, he recreates the drama of historical costume through modern, technical fabrics and simple, sporty silhouettes.

Spain’s

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Rotterdam-based Studio Makkink & Bey has redesigned the interiors of the former Hotel Dupanloup into workspace reflecting past and future

TREND DRIVERS â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Manuscript Magazine (2014)

Mineheart (2014)

Dolce & Gabbana Autumn Winter 2015-16

Orpheus: Thomas Bukovatz Apollo Magazine (2014)

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The hospitality industry sees a return to opulence as the luxury experiences become core for the nouveau riche

for

Prada Spring Summer 2015

SUMMER SHIELD

SUM ME R SHIELD //

Unlike modern peasant who sees soft, unstructured fabrics, this particular trend direction has an impenetrable shell — a medieval approach to styling. Inspired by Laurie Harding’s shoot for Esquire Spain (November 2014) which depicts Harding adorned in a chainmail adapted sweater — reminiscent of an historic knight. With chainmail-like structures providing an opulent essence and medieval inspiration pushing this trend back into the far past. Setting the tone for a style that coincides with a new cultural wave of consumers.

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NOBLE

NOBLE // This trend direction is a nod to the far past, an accessory driven direction that sees heavily embellished gloves, headpieces and hoods provide structural shapes to garments. Inspired by Dolce and Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumn Winter 2014-15 Menswear collection, which draws on historical references of garments worn by Noble Knights. This trend direction offers an alternative to Modern Peasants minimal, unstructured aesthetic.

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GOLDEN

GOLDEN Unlike Modern Peasants refined minimal colour palette, Antiqued Opulence is defined by its rich colourways. Therefore this trend direction rejects the minimal approach adopted by mainstream society and instead cloaks oneself in golden fabrics heavily adorned by golden embellishments, for a maximal opulence essence. Metallic golden materials provide an alternative to the refined, stripped back Spring Summer 2016 trend designed for the mass market. Antiqued Opulence is not afraid to create noise amongst the quiet minimal fashions of Spring Summer 2016.

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MAXIMAL EMBROIDERY

MA XI MAL E MB ROIDERY //

Golden embroidery personifies an opulent presence, set against mainstreams stark white approach to Spring Summer 2016 fashion. Golden embroidery updates everyday wear, in this ‘more is more’ trend direction.

Inspired by Dolce & Gabbana’s Autumn Winter 2015-16 Menswear collection and Autumn Winter 2012-13 Womenswear collection, which sees large golden embroidery take over spring summer garments to create a maximal approach — Inevitably providing an alternative for the early adopters and opinion formers.

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REGAL

RE GA L //

REGAL is an accessory focused trend direction, eccentric headpieces and neck harnesses large enough to counteract the ambition of the muses, early adopters and creative individuals that adopt the unconventional, and as a result drive the fashion industry forward. Inspired by Dolce & Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumn Winter 2013-14 collection, which promoted a grandeur style â&#x20AC;&#x201D; with glistening bejewelled crowns and ruby red garments cementing the richness of the designs.

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SUMMER FUR

SUMM ER FUR // Transeasonal summer furs embraced the spring summer chill with looks to warm both hearts and wardrobes. Luxurious furs and faux furs create volume and a regal elegance, which provides an alternative to the stripped back, refined Spring Summer 2016 trend predetermined by trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace. Inspired by a royal fur robe SUMMER FUR provides an ambitions trend direction for creative individuals who aim to run from the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;normâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; and reject what the crowd is doing.

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ROYAL ROBE

Deep, rich colourways, extravagant prints and thick enveloping fabrics come together for this slightly more relaxed approach to a highly intense trend. Inspired by Manuscript Magazine’s (2014) editorial shot by photographer Paul Scala. The images’ influence derives from the riches of the far past. Historical connotations are personified though voluminous silhouettes laced in paisley print and coated in a deep rich colour palette. REGAL ROBE is an alternative direction to Modern Peasant’s minimal kimono. Voluminous silhouettes are created to induce the essence of grandeur amongst a crowd of modern peasants.

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THE DRAPE CAPE

THE DRAPE CAP E

A quietly regal trend direction, which offers balance to the more eccentric directions of Antiqued Opulence. Delicate golden embroidery, shades of dove and flowing silks and chiffons are used to create a regal, offbeat design for Spring Summer 2016. Inspired by Blumarineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Milan Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2014-15 collection, which saw poised models come gliding down the catwalk followed by bellowing caped garments, laced with golden embroidery. Capes are also edited with a slightly more maximal approach, whereby embellishments and embroidery engulfs heavy, velvet materials, to provide a statement Spring Summer 2016 trend direction for the opinion formers, and those who live outside of the box.

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THE FEMININE FORM

THE FEMI NI NE FORM

// Corsets, once worn by the rich to display their pecuniary wealth have made a comeback in recent months â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the waist trainer, a corset inspired garment is making waves in society amongst both men and women. This trend direction recognises and amplifies this social experiment. Corsets are seen to be worn by both men and women as outerwear, undergarments and as material manipulation with corsetry fastening intertwined with everyday clothing. A distorting of the human form promotes a sadistic, fetishistic style to a more traditionally feminine garment.

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ROMANTIC RUFFLES

Voluminous ruffles provide a sculpted silhouette and dramatic lines, set against the typically refined silhouette of Modern Peasant. Influenced by Viktor & Rolf’s Autumn Winter 2013-2014 collection. Eloquent white ruffled shirt dresses made there way down the runway drawing inspiration from a voluminous Edwardian style. ROMANTIC RUFFLES run in the opposite direction from what monopolising trend agencies consider to be ‘on-trend’ for Spring Summer 2016. Therefore this trend direction offers an innovative antithesis to mainstream Spring Summer 2016 trend directions.

ROMANTIC RUFFLES //

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RUFF NECK LINE

Inspired by Gareth Pugh’s Spring Summer 2009 Ready-to-Wear collection, which referenced Elizabeth I’s concertinaed ruff neckline. Designs saw oversized ruff’s swallow the wearer whole. Therefore this extravagantly eccentric trend direction provides an alternative to the refined silhouettes and minimal accessories of Spring Summer 2016 trends predetermined by powerful trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace.

RUFF NE C KLINE //

Continuing to defy what is handed to consumers, this directional trend comprises of an amplified style originally belonging to Modern Peasant. However, Antiqued Opulence redefines and accentuates its identity. Modern Peasant sees frilled necklines, whereas Antiqued Opulence sees a tower of layered ruffles.

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PORCELAIN

// Print takes inspiration from porcelain murals. Antiqued prints are juxtaposed when placed on a typically urban style of clothing. Ethereal cherubs romanticise this hard hitting Spring Summer 2016 trend. Inspired by Dolce & Gabbanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Autumn Winter 2015-16 collection. Although imagery is serene in nature, the historical roots in the porcelain prints provide an alternative Spring Summer 2016 print trend. This trend direction encourages brands and consumers to run from the rigid confinements of trends set out by powerful trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace.

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FINE SILK

// Fine silks, although minimal in print and style exudes a wealth of elegance and poise. Garments are laced in rich tones of emerald green, ruby and cobalt which offer an alternative to the minimal colour palette set out for consumers for Spring Summer 2016.

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PANTONES — Luxuriously deep, rich shades and golden metallics provide an alternative to the refined colour palette of Modern Peasant

GOLD

SILVER

RUBY RED

BRONZE

EMERALD

SAPPHIRE

DEEP ORANGE

RASPBERRY

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MATERIALS â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Antiqued Opulence comes laced in fine flowing silks and heavily embroidered garments. Also providing an opulent approach is the protective layering of armoured-like materials.

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TREND TAKEAWAYS —

• Luxuriously deep rich shades and golden metallics provide an alternative to the refined colour palette of Modern Peasant • Antiques Opulence cloaks oneself in golden fabrics heavily adorned by golden embellishments, for a maximal opulence essence. • Voluminous ruffles provide a sculpted silhouette and dramatic lines, set against the typically refined silhouette of Modern Peasant. • Corsets are seen to be worn by both men and women as outerwear, undergarments and as material manipulation with corsetry fastening intertwined with everyday clothing. • Antiqued Opulence is a bold, rich statement based in the far past, however its understanding of today’s cultural consumer shift; stamps a new relevance and take on Spring Summer fashion.

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REFERENCES â&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Graeme Armour Leather Knitted Dress

Dolce and Gabbana Autumn Winter 2014-15

Bruna Castanheira Photography

Dolce and Gabbana Autumn Winter 2012-13

Gareth Pugh Spring Summer 2009

Valentino Autumn Winter 2013-14

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Off. Off, the online fashion forecasting agency that sees the fashion industry through a different lens. Challenging the views of some of the most powerful trend agencies operating in a crowded marketplace — offering an alternative to the early adopters and opinion formers. ‘Off’ encourage people to run from what is comfortable and reject what the crowd is doing by questioning the views and trends of those in power. ‘Off’ is an online trend forecasting agency for innovation, consumer, and cultural research. -

www.off-fashionforecasting.co.uk off-fashionforecasting@hotmail.com -

Editor & Chief Jessica Greene