THE
LA ST ISS UE NEW YORK
NEW YORK
THE #NYFW
FASHION WEEK
RAINBOW
TORONTO
NYFW
FILM
FESTIVAL
The last issue no. 24 september 27, 2105
2015
A TAIL OF TWO LIPSTICK
NEW YORK
FASHION WEEK 2015
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CONTENT September / 2015
The Guide TOMMY HILLFIGER
GIVENCHY
Feauture/Designers
New York Fashion Week Page 4 - 5
Trends
Page 6 - 7
Beauty
Page 8 - 9
Art & Lifestyle
RALPH LAUREN
CALVIN KLEIN
Page 24 - 25
Street Fashion Page 26 - 27 - 28
People & Parties Page 29 - 30 - 31
Fashion Editorial Page 32 - 33
PRADA
YEZZY
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NEW YORK
Fa s h i o n We e k Fashion Week has begun and there’s only one way to find out what the next season has in store for us: get it from the designers direct. Here, we get a preview of what to expect as they reveal their inspirations.
New York fashion week looks set to move home. The shows have been based at the Lincoln Centre since 2010, but look increasingly likely to be moving to a new purpose-built site in the near future.
There was poetry in motion at Rodarte; merry imagination from Proenza Schouler; Carolina Herrera creating a collection about “tranquility - transparency and illusion, evoking sensuality”; Tory Burch talking about “beauty found in unexpected places”.
When Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa took silver screen glamour as inspiration for his satin slip dresses, it reinforced the general message of a dreamscape.
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Carolina Herrera summed up the season’s approach to not letting too much reality interfere with one’s reverie.
Hudson Yards, a new development on Manhattan’s West Side, is competing to house the shows, and has the advantage of being backed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). The multipurpose centre features an area called the Culture Shed, specifically designed for such an even
“In
fashion, it’s important to keep a little mystery, I design clothes that are seductive and sensual, but always leave something for the imagination. Fashion is, after all, about fantasy.” - Carolina Herrera
DelPozo
Marchesa
Anna Sui
DKNY
BOSS
Oscar De La Renta
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September 2015
Spring/ Summer 2016
TRENDS Givenchy
The
#NYFW
RAINBOW The catwalks of New York thus far have provided us with a rainbow of colour from nude and barely-there yellows to sharp shots of orange and pink, and beyond. Here, we follow the city’s emerging colour chart for spring/summer 2016.
Rag & Bone Altazurra
- Jessica Bumpus. Thakoon
Lela Rose Edun
Cushnie Et Ochs
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Carolina Herrera
September 2015
Spring/ Summer 2016
“Ways To Wear:
The Pleated Skirt” There’s something so seasonally right about pleated skirts for the autumn/ winter season - they’re so very back-toschool (that’s September for you). But, thankfully, when they crop up in our wardrobes again now, there’s no longer the fear of double maths to accompany them. Suno Instead, they’ve received an upgrade in luxe leather, shimmer, spliced with sequins and rendered in box or knife varieties that sway sexily around the knee as they go ( Christian Dior and Guy Laroche did these styles best). The thing to note with the pleated skirt now though is where at school it blended into a background of navy or black (or green or red or grey depending on what your school uniform was), here it steals all of the outfit action. You’ll look forward to wearing it.
Valentino
DKNY
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Beauty
NYFW: A TALE OF TWO LIPSTICKS Nude lips or red lips? Both, of course. Or that’s what the New York Fashion Week shows seem to be telling us, anyway.
This felt sophisticated, contemporary and real rather than committing to a full red-lipped look, make-up artists instead took an “as and when” approach. A glowing, natural, come-as-you-are style beauty has dominated the spring/summer 2016 catwalks in New York, but every so often ever so unexpectedly - a sudden pop of bold red on the lips would take us by surprise. Take Victria Beckham. Eleven looks into her spring/summer 2016 show on Sunday and we thought we’d seen the beauty look perfected skin by Pat McGrath, sleek hair by Guido Palau, bare mouths - and then bam! A bolt of bright orange-red adorned the lips of model
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Vera van Erp in look 12, and then the girls in looks 15, 16, 18 and 21 too. Interesting, we thought. Then at Oscar de la Renta we saw matt tomato lips on around two thirds of the models, with th remainder sporting a cool nude instead, plus a similar combination of part neutral and part pillarbox at Jenny Packham. “The combination of the rich skin with a pop of colour creates an expensive look, but more importantly spotlights individuality,” said Talia Sparrow, the make-up artist behind the the look at the latter, for which she chose either red or nude depending upon the model’s overall look.
Beauty
At Zac Posen, red lips were paired with just five of 40 total looks - exclusively sported by blondes, but notably not on all blondes - and at DKNY it was a similarly small fraction. Just every so often, when it made sense for the look or particularly suited the girl, a burst of scarlet completed the effect better than a nude might. And isn’t this how we wear lipstick in real life?. Most working women have a beauty uniform of sorts; we do our hair in the same way, make up our skin and define our eyes in the same way, and then if we feel like a burst of colour, we’ll add it. This felt sophisticated, contemporary and real rather than committing to a full red-lipped look, make-up artists instead took an “as and when” approach and thus model charts backstage looked like a photo diary of what one woman would wear in a month. Sometimes we want to mix things up with a pop of colour, sometimes we don’t.And crucially the make-up and hair that accompanied either look remained the same. Fresh, glowing skin, groomed brows and softly defined eyes, with sleek, smart hair at Victoria Beckham and DKNY and modern up-dos at Oscar de la Renta and Zac Posen. Modern, real, doable beauty.
“This felt sophisticated, contemporary and real rather than committing to a full red-lipped look, make-up artists instead took an “as and when” approach”
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
GIVENCHY “It came very naturally to me, it is full of love,” he said to sum up the collection. And it was. “It is a very romantic collection, I am at a very romantic moment in my life.” He took a bride and groom as inspiration to transpose masculine and feminine elements - the wedding dress, the tuxedo. He combined and mixed and matched them so that there was an overriding exquisite boudoir feel for chemise dresses that gathered at shoulders, splayed in asymmetric lace layers with a delicate and wispy lightness. They came in black and they came in white. Robes fell into being waistcoats or vice versa and lace slips teased above trousers, trails of satin enlaced around legs and streamed behind the girls.
September 11, a poignant day in recent American history, which fell and falls over New York Fashion Week. And it was a day that Riccardo Tisci wanted to acknowledge as he moved his traditionally Paris-shown collection to New York this season and collaborated with friend Marina Abramovic to do so. As artistic director of the show, she created a set that utilised recycled materials and debris, as well as included performance pieces and music from six different cultures and religions. It was about inclusion. It was moving and it was heartfelt (her show notes explaining it all especially so) and it all took place beneath the watchful September-summer glow of the Freedom Tower as the sun shone, and later went down, and Tisci’s procession of Givenchy beauty played out for spring/summer 2016. “It was a very honest collection,” said the designer backstage - though not until he’d caught up with Julia Roberts, Steven and Liv Tyler, and Naomi Campbell. We, of course, clocked Kim and Kanye out front, and there was Debbie Harry and Antony Hegarty (who has performed previously at his show) there too. Tisci has pulling power.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
“But that idea of expansion was something that extended beyond the reach of the clothes, Tisci having invited non-fashion folk to join the fun of a fashion show too.”
It was fluid and exquisite, emotional and sensual
as we know Tisci is so adept at doing - that incredibly controlled balance of masculine meets feminine. Lace and pearls, pinstripe and encrusted and bejewelled booties; menswear and couture too were all there - it was a vast and expansive show. With every look came a scramble of fingers to Insta-snap, before another look came to usurp it and another and then another.
“There is a sport feeling too, street style, the real concept to show on the street” - and so
that’s how his choice of location, Pier 26, came into being: it was as close to being on the streets as he could get in New York City. “Something for everyone.” Ten years at Givenchy and Tisci is making sure no one misses out on any of the celebrations - clothes, experience, love, the lot.With thanks to Capstar Chauffeurs - Jessica Bumpus
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
TOMMY HILFIGER
TOMMY HILFIGER is no stranger to a large-scale fashion show production. Let’s see, he’s rebuilt a ski resort in the past, a Californian beach scene and an American football field. This season he rebuilt Mustique, the private Caribbean island where he has a home and where he holidayed this summer, like every summer (before renting the home to Robbie Williams the week after). Among palm trees, a painted sunset, tons of sand, and a fisherman’s boat floating on the water - he even flew in Basil, of Mustique’s Basil’s Bar to sit in his bamboo replica pop-up - models made their way over the boardwalk in an array of Ragga style.
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“TOMMY HILFIGER is no stranger to a large-scale fashion show production. ” From red, gold and green crochet dresses and string bikinis to retro suede tracksuits, the sort that look like they might be inspired by photographs of Bob Marley. “It was a collection of island-ready pieces that would also translate to cityscapes, not least, those colourful stripy separates with whip-stitched seams, and sporty, tropical floral-printed dresses, which took their cue from textile artist Josef Frank.
Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
“The road to success is not easy to navigate, but with hard work, drive and passion, it’s possible to achieve the American dream.” Tommy Hilfiger
There were Hilfiger house signatures here too, albeit reworked with a Caribbean flavour, like his prized polo tops re-
jigged in netted mesh, and Oxford shirts that came personalised.
Hilfiger also nodded to the eccentric Brits visiting the island during the Seventies via jacquard suiting and silk kaftans.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
CALVIN KLEIN
PINA BAUSCH proved to be pin-up for Francisco Costa and his Calvin
Klein Collection offering today, one that embraced a loose and carefree silhouette to transpose his brand of minimalism. But it was roughed up too, in just the right amount – for frayed edges, notes of distress and chains laced over shoulders of wispy light slips. It was raw, loose and baggy, pretty dresses gently billowing in floral prints, trails of ribbon here and there to make the point. There’s no doubt you’ll have a great summer wearing these. And while we all like a slip dress, it was the sequin coat mash-ups that proved to be standouts here.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
You’d never think of Calvin Klein Collection’s women’s creative director Francisco Costa as a glamour kind of guy – not to his detriment, but its simply a fact. The flowing satin gowns and furs of other designers aren’t for him – at least, not usually. For spring though, Costa thought glamour. The most glamorous breed of glamour, actually: the peroxide blonde Jean Harlow, in slipper satin or sequin slips. That’s a potent breed, but Costa roughed it all up a bit, with trodden-in trainers, raw hems, everything pulled undone. “A lusty warmth” he called it. Ooh-err!! We wouldn’t mind a bit of that..
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
RALPH LAUREN “Ralph suggests bold graphic maxidresses, here they curved in lines of red and blue; wide palazzo pants and fine-knit bodysuits complete with cutouts came very naturally to me, it is full of love,” he said to sum up the collection. And it was. “It is a very romantic collection, I am at a very romantic moment in my life.”
September 17, It was a combination of the French Riviera and Paris in sprin-
gtime that played out on the Ralph Lauren catwalk today – with Julianne Moore, Jssica Chastain and Alec Baldwin among those there to take it all in, Frank Sinatra chiming away in the background. Quite the holiday.
What to pack for it? Ralph suggests bold graphic maxidresses, here they curved in lines of red and blue; wide palazzo pants and fine-knit bodysuits complete with cu-
touts. Of course, you’ll need a ballgown – in stripes – and plenty of preppy shirting, for which the designer is so well-known.
And while that takes care of your wardrobe, you’ll need to think about adding an extra bit of hand luggage for the accessories – here they really stood out: ladylike little box bags or raffia numbers with “Ralph” stitched on. Top that off with a pair of huge Eighties visor sunglasses and you have the Ralph Lauren mini-break done.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
Ralph Lauren was in a nautical
state of mind for his Spring/Summer 2016 collection. But instead of stic-
king to tried and true sailor inspired
styles, the designer smartly broadened the scope of his seafaring show.
The collection started out with pieces that felt familiar as they rewor-
ked classic sartorial elements of this particular theme.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
YEEZY / KANYE WEST
Kanye West’s presentation during New York Fashion Week showed off his bag-
gy, rural collection in a military style as Anna Wintour, Lorde and Kim Kardas-
hian – holding baby North West – sat in the front row.
West debuted Yeezy Season 2 on Wednesday at the Skylight Modern. The collection was launched in four sets: First
a woman entered the stage wearing tan, almost the same colour as her skin, and she yelled, “First row, fall in. Second
row, fall in.” Others models followed, sporting the same colour and blond ponytails.
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“Kim Kardashian and North West matched the models with their own tan ensembles.” “Kourtney and Khloe Kardashian, Courtney Love, Common, Michael Strahan, Seth Meyers and former Vogue editor-at-large Andre Leon Talley watched from the front row while Jaden Smith, R&B singer Miguel and rapper Pusha T watched from the second row.”
Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
The clothes ranged from loose jackets to
high-waisted pants to tank tops. The lea-
der wore a hoodie. The next set, which also featured a model yelling orders,
featured army green, followed by deeper
brown and then black. Most of the pants on the men were loose. There were tighter items on the women, including leggings and bathing suits. And some of the
models wore baseball caps that covered their eyes.
Kanye West and her wife Kim Kardashian posing during the finale of Yeezy Season 2 during NY Fashion Week at Skylight Modern on September 16, 2015 in New York City. 21
Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
PRADA
MIUCCIA PRADA gave us a very clever show this evening - it was a new way
of dressing with all of your favourite clothes. It was her classic bad-tastegood-taste mash-up and with so much to wear, a magpie’s dream to dissect.
The models looked like sticks of rock in their striped skirt suits and coats with a bit of space-age thrown in. It all felt so modern: gold lips and bauble
Christmas decoration earrings that later morphed into jangling sequins that descended as epaulettes on the shoulders of dropped-waist dresses.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
From cropped jackets to begin with and an emphasis on the skirt suit (from short to knee-length), it gained momentum black net perched at the neck as though caught on this season’s Prada girl in a wind tunnel - a great styling detail. There were notes of Seventies wallpaper, a sense of the mid-century modern, of Tom Dixon furniture - it segued through the references yet managed to end up making sense of them all. What might be hard to make sense of, however, is what to put at the top of your shopping list next season.
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Arts & Lifestyle
HEMSLEY + HEMSLEY: SOUPER SEPTEMBER
Autumn is certainly here, so we turned to Hemsley + Hemsley for their ultimate nourishing soup recipes. “This September, it’s all about the soups.One of our favourite meals, soup is versatile,sustainable, easy to make and easy to digest. We start most of our soups with homemade bone broth for a rich, nutritious and tasty base - it adds that background flavour which is deep, rich and satiating, not to mention a good dose of protein to make sure you’re left feeling satisfied.
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Then throw in whatever needs eating up or is looking lonely in your kitchen cupboards!. Think leftover chicken from the night before, a tin of cooked beans, some super-ripe and slightly squishy tomatoes and a pinch of chilli flakes or paprika that’s always hanging around. The history of soup is probably as old as the history of cooking and in every cuisine around the world there is soup. It really is a style of cooking we should all master - we say it should be part of the school curriculum! Whether you like yours hot or cold, sweet or spicy, creamy or clear like a broth, you can be guaranteed that there’s a soup for every occasion. Particularly now that we’re heading towards the colder half of the year, we’re starting to crave that warm glow that only a hot bowl of soup can give. Fill yours with nourishing bone broth, fresh veggies and flavourful herbs and spices to keep the autumn blues at bay.
Arts & Lifestyle
“With all of these options, you’ll never get bored. Have a Souper September!” If, like us, you’re finding yourself super busy at the moment (with little time to think about what to make for lunch or dinner), then one-pot recipes like these are your new best friend. Get into the habit of making a big batch of bone broth as part of your Sunday Cook-Off and use it to make a different soup each week - enjoy half straight away and freeze the rest. You’ll soon have a variety of soups that you can call upon whenever you don’t have the time or inclination to cook. Invest in a stainless steel thermos so that you can take your homemade soup for a hot lunch on the go.
Drizzle with cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil (we prefer not to cook with EVOO to keep those nutrients intact) and spruce up with a swirl of natural yoghurt, pesto or fresh herbs, or add a crunch with toasted pumpkin seeds, almonds or cashew nuts. With all of these options, you’ll never get bored. Have a Souper September!
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
STREET FASHION “Shiona Turini is back to help narrow down our top five. We have our own winner of the day, but we can’t decide on the Golden Peacock champion without your help, so vote below for your favorite!”
September 12, All throughout fashion month, the Cut will be ranking streetstylers on their outfits, ultimately bestowing a coveted Golden Peacock award on one winner for each city. Photographer YoungJun Koo will be shooting all of our con-
testants, and Cut contributor (and last year’s winner!) Shiona Turini is back to help
narrow down our top five. We have our own winner of the day, but we can’t decide on the Golden Peacock champion without your help, so vote below for your favorite!
The Peacocks showed no signs of fatigue on the final day of New York Fashion
Week. First up on the list is our new favorite: Gilda Ambrosio. She was our top pick yesterday, and today she mixed it up again, this time showing off those Chanel sling-
backs that were everywhere this week. Also a repeat on our top five: Annina Mislin. The C Magazine editor decided to wear an outfit that you could probably find in your mom’s closet.
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
Vogue Fashion’s Night Out saw a host of stylish shoppers hitting Regent Street for the night - were you among them? Find out more about Vogue Loves Regent Street Fashion’s Night Out here
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Spring/ Summer 2016 READY- TO -WEAR
HOW TO DRESS FOR FASHION SHOWS
On the plus side, I’ve never subscribed to the idea of peacocking, and it’s just as well,because I really wouldn’t make a very good one. I don’t ever wear colour (navy and khaki is as colourful as I get), and prints repel me. I love them on other people, but they have always felt alien on me, and so I tackle show dressing in the same way as every other day, except elevated by 10 to 15 per cent more thought. My style is and has always been simple. The concept of a day dress or skirt has never existed for me; I rarely stray from blue jeans, from skinny to boyfriend (Paige), and so that makes things easier when packing for fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris - cities where you don’t have the luxury of your total wardrobe at your dispense.
And so to packing; I’ve never checked in luggage for fashion week. Primarily to eliminate the risk of my suitcase going astray (I can’t think of a worse time to ex-
perience lost luggage), but also because I’m a scrupulous packer; I never take more than I think I will need.
Five days before I leave, I check the weather and then I figure out exactly what to take by working out outfit ideas to the days that I’m away for. Six days requires six
outfits, with two extra looks for mood change, and no more than three evening op-
tions. I try to do these calculations early bearing in mind some things might require dry cleaning.
Four cities, three time zones, an average of 12 fashion shows a day, adding up to around 250 shows a season. This is fashion month, not fashion week, month. And
there’s no time for “I have nothing to wear today.” (Yes, with a wardrobe happily bulging, even I say it).
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Rachel McAdams in a Valentino dress at The Toronto Film Festival 2015 29
People and parties
TORONTO FILM FESTIVAL 2015 NataliePortman, Elle Faning, Eddie Redmayne, Amber Heard and many, many more. The Toronto Film Festival has enjoyed an influx of Hollywood faces. See who’s taken to the red carpet...
On the up side:Kristen Stewart and Nicholas Hoult. On the right side: Julianne Moore.
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People and parties
On the left side:
Ellen Page wore a Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane look.
On the right side:
Jane Fonda in a Yves Saint Laurent Courture gown - the first time the new collection has been worn on the red carpet.
On the left side:
Dakota Johnson in a dress by Alexander McQueen
On the right side:
Amber Heard - wearing a Victoria Beckham dress with Tiffany & Co. jewellery - and Johnny Depp.
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MANGO Pa単uelo $27.900 Pantalon $184.900 Chaqueta $229.900
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MANGO Botas $ 469.900 Abrigo $329.900 33
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