The Wandering Jew

The Jewish Home | SEPTEMBER 15, 2022

The Wandering Jew Scandinavian Journeys Sweden & Norway

By Hershel Lieber

The first time we went to Sweden was in the summer of 1990. Pesi and I were invited to participate in running the Lauder Summer Retreat for Jews in Poland. My function was mainly teaching groups, but I was involved in many other programs that enhanced the Jewish experience for the well over-two-hundred attendees. Pesi took part in many of these activities and was especially effective in reaching out to people on a one-to-one basis. This unusually lengthy trip was scheduled for twenty-three days, so we took along our seven-year-old son Mechel. The Polish portion of our trip had so many highlights that it deserves its own article, which I hope to write about one day. I am now focusing on the five days which followed our eighteen-day stay in Poland.

We were intent on visiting another country before we returned home, and for whatever reason, we chose to travel to Sweden. Having Mechel along with us compelled us to gear some of our tourism activities to fit the needs of a young child. After some research, I put together an itinerary that would cater to all our interests.

We arrived in Stockholm on Thursday before noon, and after checking into a hotel with a two-room suite, we immediately went to the Jewish Center. There was a restaurant at the Center where we enjoyed a good meal and received a list of approved kosher products that one can find in food markets. After shopping for some fruits and vegetables, we took a pleasant and informative boat tour in the lively harbor. This was followed by going to a nearby park where Mechel delighted himself with all the playground equipment.

The next morning after going to shul and shopping for Shabbos (we were actually able to buy challos and wine), we went to Gamla Stan, the Old Town. There, we watched the ceremonial changing of the guards at the Queens Palace complemented by music played by a military band. We also took photos of Mechel with the sailor-uniformed sentries. Then we walked for over two hours through the quaint winding streets while checking out the shops and galleries. We took the Tube back to the hotel and prepared ourselves for Shabbos.

I do not remember which shul we davened at during that Shabbos, but it was near our hotel. Friday night there were about twenty men and Shabbos morning there were nearly fifty mispallelim. The davening was very nice with a Yekkishe (German) nusach followed by a simple kiddush. Our seudos took place in the hotel, and we had plenty of food. Shabbos afternoon we took Mechel to a neighboring park where he entertained himself on a jungle gym. The we all watched skateboarders practicing their skills at the skatepark. We walked over to the nearby stadium which was featuring equestrian events and were allowed to enter free of charge. I cannot say that the afternoon was especially in the spirit of our regular Shabbos, but it kept Mechel occupied and happy. We went to shul for Mincha, ate Shalosh Seudos in our room, and returned for Maariv and Havdalah at almost 10:30 PM. Summer Shabbosim end late in Northern Europe, and this was actually an early Motzei Shabbos. We retired soon after Shabbos after making plans for our final two days in Stockholm.

On Sunday and Monday, we went to see a number of famous tourist sights. The Swedish warship Vasa, which sunk on its maiden trip in 1628, was salvaged and restored in 1961, and an entire museum was built around its saga. The history of the Vasa was very interesting, and the ship was very well preserved. Near the Djurgarden an event was being held called “Meet your Navy” which allowed visitors to go on aboard the naval vessels and explore on their own.

Gamla Stan in Stockholm

Mechel and Pesi at the Royal Palace in 1990

Mechel with me at Skansen in 1990 Sognefjord At Bergen Harbor

On Sunday, we went to Skansen, Sweden’s over-one-hundred-year-old open museum. There were about one-hundred-and-fifty houses that were brought there from all over the country to conserve the homes and demonstrate the lifestyle that existed before the Industrial Age. The authentic furnishings and clothing of that period are meticulously maintained lest those traditions become lost to history. I regret not taking enough photos at the time but remember how much we all enjoyed that experience. At Skansen, there was a zoo and a mountain train ride that contributed to a perfect outing.

On Monday, we took Mechel to Grona Lund Tivoli, which is an amusement park with many rides and attractions. We spent four hours there while Mechel went on every single ride (except for the roller coaster). As we reflected on our flight back home the next morning, Sweden was a great choice which truly catered to all our wishes. Fast forward to September of 2013. We went to Warsaw for the Yomim Noraim where I served as the baal tefillah at the Nozyk Shul. As in most years, we traveled out of Poland for a few days between Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur. I did realize that this period was not the optimum time to go touring, yet the circumstance of already being in Europe and having some spare time beckoned us to make these journeys. Among the Scandinavian countries, there was only one that we had not visited before. That was the land of the magnificent fjords, Norway. The day after Tzom Gedalia, we took an low-cost flight to the city of Bergen on the Atlantic coast of Norway.

Bergen is Norway’s second largest city, yet it retains a small town flavor. It is surrounded by seven mountains and some of world’s most significant fjords. The picturesque harbor is a World Heritage Site. The hardest time I had in Bergen was controlling my yearning to take photos. The vibrant buildings facing the harbor, the diverse collection of ships moored along the docks, the seafood market, the stalls selling colorful woolen sweaters, scarfs, gloves and mittens… There was even a booth with reindeer skins for sale. No, I couldn’t control myself and took nearly fifty pictures on the first day!

The next morning, we were up at 5 AM to make our cruise boat that traveled along the forty-seven-mile Sognefjord, the longest and deepest fjord in Norway. The morning started out quite cloudy as we embarked on this five-hour journey. Thankfully, within minutes after leaving Bergen, the sky turned a bright blue with patches of fluffy clouds. The scenes surrounding us were absolutely magnificent, and we were in awe of Hashem’s wonderous creation. We alternated between gazing at the sights from the indoor panoramic window views to going up to the deck where we could feel the mild breeze and sniff the ocean waters.

We eventually disembarked in Flam and continued by train to Oslo. The train traveled past towering mountains, pristine lakes, and charming villages and was in and itself an enjoyable treat. On the way to Oslo, the train made a stop in Myrdal where we were stopped to gaze at the spectacle of rushing mountain falls to the accompaniment of its thunderous echoes.

Pesi and Mechel at the Stockholm Harbor in 1990 The restored Vasa Warship Arriving at the Flam station

We finally arrived in Oslo in the evening. As much as we enjoyed the day’s activities, it still was quite a long day. We ate our cold dinner and promptly went to sleep. Seeing Oslo would have to wait until the next morning.

Since we were leaving back to Poland the next evening, we asked and were given an extension in checking out of our hotel room. We realized that the best way to see the city in one day would be by taking a bus tour with stops at some of the most important sights. The two-hour guided bus tour really covered everything in and about Norway’s capital. The Royal Palace, Parliament, and the Radhuset (City Hall) were only some of the important buildings that we saw. Vigeland’s sculpture garden was impressive, and we were taken to the Holmenkollen ski jump, which is used for training and competitions.

After the bus tour, we went on our own to the National Gallery to see the artistic creations of Oslo’s favorite painter Edward Munch. We actually enjoyed many of his other works more than his iconic painting called “The Scream.” An audio tour guided us through the exhibits and gave us a better understanding of the museum’s general collection. After eating lunch at the hotel, we took a long walk along the harbor before heading to the airport.

This short three-day trip to Norway was just the right break we needed before resuming the appropriate serious disposition for the upcoming day of Yom Kadosh.

Hershel Lieber has been involved in kiruv activities for over 30 years. As a founding member of the Vaad L’Hatzolas Nidchei Yisroel he has traveled with his wife, Pesi, to the Soviet Union during the harsh years of the Communist regimes to advance Yiddishkeit. He has spearheaded a yeshiva in the city of Kishinev that had 12 successful years with many students making Torah their way of life. In Poland, he lectured in the summers at the Ronald S. Lauder Foundation camp for nearly 30 years. He still travels to Warsaw every year – since 1979 – to be the chazzan for Rosh Hashana and Yom Kippur for the Jews there. Together with Pesi, he organized and led trips to Europe on behalf of Gateways and Aish Hatorah for college students finding their paths to Jewish identity. His passion for travel has taken them to many interesting places and afforded them unique experiences. Their open home gave them opportunities to meet and develop relationships with a variety of people. Hershel’s column will appear in The Jewish Home on a bi-weekly basis.