SHPITZ SUITS

DREAM By: Andrew Lock OF ELECTRIC BLUE SUITS

When a new client walks into my shop, one of the first questions I ask is whether they have their basics in order. Just about every suitwearing man needs solid navy and grey suits in his wardrobe before beginning to think about stripes, plaids, or brighter hues. Once the basics are in order, I recommend thinking about seasonal suits to enjoy when the weather is hot or cold. These suits can be basic solids or a bit more fun in weave, blend, and pattern.

After a while, though, it is easy to grow bored of another navy or grey suit. Even when one has variation after variation of the classic patterns, it is normal for a bit of boredom to set in. This situation is something I see from time to time. It is especially true among clients who would like to dress more creatively (in a classy way), but could use some gentle guidance to determine which colors will deliver a stylish impact and which are for those who desire attention at any cost.

The first color worth mentioning is green. This spring, in particular, my clients have been creating more green suits than ever before. Of course, I don’t mean drab olive or bright Peter Pan green. The shades in question are infinitely more wearable in polite company, bearing whimsical names such as seagrass or dark jade. The common element tends to be - but is not always - a touch of grey blended into the color. These fabrics don’t hide their greenness, but the bit of grey makes them feel more familiar and welcome. In addition to grey, some of them have a subtle but definite blue hue that creates a familiarity in a previously “forbidden” color.

The other element that makes many of these fabrics popular is that hardly any are of flat twill. Different shades of the same or similar colors woven together in a tropical or sharkskin weave soften the overall look and will make a new color easier on the eyes. If one is not ready to go “full green”, a clever choice would be a micro houndstooth fabric with green and black or charcoal, each playing the foil to the other. From a distance, the suit will still have its green appearance, but the muted element of the pattern softens its overall look.

The suit’s design also plays a large part in its overall impact. A more traditional grey suit can achieve its bold impression through wide lapels, contrast buttons, or an extreme taper. However, it would be best to use a bit of discretion when contemplating the design of a suit in an unfamiliar color.

A need for unique colors also comes into play in the quest for the perfect sportcoat. While many people have no lack of suits for every occasion, they often look to keep their sportcoat inventory to a bare minimum. This leads to the question - “Tell me what sportcoat I can wear on casual or dressy occasions with black, blue or grey pants. And tell me while standing on one leg.”

I’ve heard that a bespoke shop in Brooklyn kicked an impudent customer out of their store for this very question. Thankfully, I have the answer - dark burgundy or aubergine. An aubergine sportcoat is the ultimate in versatility. Take it on a trip, and it will match every shirt and pair of pants in your wardrobe. Choose your jacket fabric right, and it doesn’t matter whether you are dressing up or down. It will pair with absolutely everything. The best part of it is that it is not even loud. The fabric will look loud when browsing through the swatch book; it would probably look loud when tailored into a complete suit. But as a simple sport coat, these colors will elevate whatever you pair them with subtly and tastefully.

All of the above leads to a final thought. A sportcoat can be the perfect way to ease oneself into comfort with unfamiliar colors. This is true whether it is an exotic color such as green, burgundy, or brown, or a brighter or lighter shade of a standard color such as electric blue or teal. Introducing a new color in the form of a sport coat can be less daunting than wearing that same color from top to bottom as a full suit. Don’t forget that a sportcoat does not need to have a pattern. The general rule is that as long as a jacket does not look like it is without a doubt part of a suit, it can work as a sportcoat.

Spice things up with contrast buttons and patch pockets, and it will never be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket even if you happen to have made the matching trousers and wore it as a complete suit last week! Be creative and, above all, have fun!

M

Andrew Lock is the proprietor of Andrew Lock Custom Menswear at 403 Central Avenue in Cedarhurst. His shop offers all manners of custom clothing as well as fine shoes, accessories, wardrobe consulting services, and the best cappuccino in town. Call 516.619.6264 or visit NYbespoke.com to schedule a fitting.