Travel Supp 2020 by Jewish News

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Travel

31 JANUARY 2020

Supplement

Edited by Brigit Grant

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

Travel / Cuba

hat does a holiday in Havana give you? The opportunity to take some great pics I would say. While that might not rock everyone’s vacation boat it was a change of gear for someone who shoots simchas and corporate events. I also do personalised photo op tours in my London taxi, but for colour and transport, the blue skies and convertible cadillacs make Havana a dream destination for a photographer. Everything deserves to be photographed – so that’s the friendly people, the vintage cars and the beautiful colonial

Adam Soller swaps simchas for the saucy streets of Cuba buildings, many of which now lie in ruins behind their facades. It’s simply fascinating: the rum, the music, the history, trying to understand the currencies (yes, there is more than one), the communism and the way of life. The best time to visit Cuba is in the spring when it is still sunny, before the hurricane season begins in June, but we went in August, armed with sunscreen, mosquito repellent, umbrellas and fans for the humidity. They say the food in

For colour and colonial buildings, Havana is a photographer’s dream destination

Cuba is bland and repetitive so we went with few expectations, but wound up eating in some wonderful restaurants. La Guarida is a paladar (privately-run restaurant) on the top floor of an otherwise derelict building, which counts Madonna and the Kardashians among its’ clientele. El Cocinero is in the residential area of Vedado, next to the arts centre, Fábrica del Arte Cubano. It’s very popular so booking is essential, or you can just go for drink. Food and service at both ere excellent. At the Palacio de la Artesanía in Habana Vieja, Gustavo initiated us in the art of smoking a Cuban cigar with rum and coffee – el maridaje or ritual. Unfortunately, Gustavo doesn’t speak English so you need a Spanish speaker to translate. The first part of the ritual involves opening a new bottle of dark Havana Club rum and throwing the first part on the floor as ‘a gift to the Saints’. While we smoked our Romeo & Juliet cigars Gustavo showed us the different way to hold them (the Fidel Castro, Winston Churchill or ladylike way), how to burn a ring at the beginning, deal with the ash (don’t flick it!) and when to put it out. Or in our case, get it going. We took two tours. On our first morning Willy was our guide on a walking tour of Old Havana. He told us all about the history of the city and spent three hours showing us around. It’s a great idea to do a walking tour on your first day in any city so you can

decide what you would like to see more of. There are a lot of museums in Havana, but we decided not to go to any of them. Had we done it would have been to the rum and cigars museum, but opted instead to walk,chat to locals and take these photographs, but did take a tour in a masterfully restored vintage cadillac– great fun and a definite must-do. Devising our own itinerary took us down El Malecón (the coast) to Fusterlandia, a neighbourhood of Havana which has been transformed into a work of art by local artist José Fuster. On the way back we drove through the Havana Forest (Bosque de Havana) full of beautiful sweeping trees covered in green canopy plants and visited Hemingway’s haunts La Bodeguita del Medio and El Floridita, and the Raquel Hotel. Mostly we explored Havana’s streets meeting locals who were happy to chat. We discovered that there is no poverty in Cuba, but people have very little. Food is rationed (except for tourists) and everything belongs to the state. With few shops and little to buy, Cuba is a refreshing contrast to our consumerism and an interesting lesson for our teenage kids. u The Sollers travelled to Cuba with Virgin Atlantic and stayed in the Iberostar Parque Central from £164 per night

31 January 2020 Jewish News

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Cuba / Travel

JEWISHHAVANA

‘Friendly people, beautiful vintage cars and guavas’

Kosher

houses the Cuban Holocaust exhibition. The Jewish Quarter is in the centre of the old city. Like much of Havana, it is run-down though Hotel Raquel is in a beautifully restored Art Nouveau building. With its mezuzah, Star of David, , L’Chaim bar and Garden of Eden restaurant, it is aimed at Jewish visitors and well worth a visit.

When Castro came to power in 1959, 90 percent of the 15,000 Jews in Cuba fled. Nowadays almost all the remaining 1,500 Jewbans (Jewish Cubans) live in Havana and are delighted to welcome visitors to their community. Tours of Jewish interest are run by young Jewbans and visit the three synagogues. El Patronato (also known as Beth Shalom) is the largest, which also houses the community centre where the chagim are celebrated along with cheder classes and Israeli dancing. The other shuls are the orthodox Adath Israel and the Sephardi Synagogue, which

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

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31 January 2020 Jewish News

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Special stay / Travel

A decade after he was due to say “I Do” there, Stephen Oryszczuk and his missus visit the hotel where they were to wed

olidaying in the hotel where I was meant to marry more than a decade earlier might sound like the opening for an Adam Sandler/ Drew Barrymore movie, but this story is all mine. The hotel is Constance Prince Maurice – or just plain old ‘Prince Maurice’ as it was

back in 2005, the property in Mauritius where the yet-to-be Mrs O and I had fixed to tie the knot. We had planned, saved and paid the £450 deposit for our long-haul nuptials but, sadly, just weeks before, my fiancée’s father got ill and for him not to be there was unthinkable, so we cancelled and got hitched in Devon a few years later. Of course we’ve always hankered for that ‘I Do’ moment by the Indian Ocean and so, with our tenth anniversary looming, we decided to get all romantic again at our original wedding venue. I’m always wary when foreign hotel groups gobble up superb independents, promising not to suck the individuality out of them then doing just that, but Constance is Mauritian and does “authentic luxury” as well as anyone on the planet. So it’s fine. This hotel, with rooms, restaurants and bars on stilts over its own lagoon, is the group’s crown jewel. The hotel is a beach and pool mecca but, if you feel active, let the concierge hire you a car (left-hand driving on good roads) and venture inland to the island’s tiny Jewish community epicentre in Curepipe. There’s a museum and the Amicale Maurice Israel Center, where you can learn the extraordinary story of 1,600 Jewish refugees sent there in 1940 after being denied entry into British-run Palestine.

Above: The main pool at the Hotel Constance Prince Maurice in Mauritius. Top: A bedroom with a view

Left: Mr and Mrs O celebrate a special meal on the beach

There would have been 1,800 more but for the Jewish militia Haganah, which scuttled the second ship in Haifa’s port, accidentally killing 200 Jews in the process. Today there is a memorial to 127 Jewish detainees, who didn’t survive the war on this island. Jewish people are now more likely to visit Mauritius than live there, but they’re still contributing – the hotel’s chef told me that a French Jewish family has been coming here for years, and every year they teach him a new Jewish dish, which he then adds to the menu. I’m a picky reviewer and always find a fault, but Constance stumped me and I ran out of superlatives for the stunning lagoon setting, the towering lobby architecture, the quality of the furnishings and the sensational food with influences from France, Africa and India. Dining was enjoyed amid the lush hotel grounds, where weaver birds ply their trade above a network of paths and a pair of giant tortoises watch tourists stroll from the pitching green, in anticipation of the hotel’s championship golf course, to the spa, where the therapists know your back better than you do and banish aches and pains like Harry Potter would a dementor. Also, the spa uses only Sisely products, which Mrs O told me to tell you is a very good thing indeed. To top it all, Constance Prince Maurice, and its sister hotel Constance Belle Mare Plage, are two of only a few high-end Mauri-

Main picture and top: Lagoon life. Above: Stephen belly flops into the hotel pool

tius hotels serious about minimising their impact on the environment. Countless others talk the talk, but don’t deliver. A boat trip to the nearby once-healthy reef now sadly reveals a coral graveyard, which tells its own story. If you’d like to visit this beautiful island, and if you can afford it, I urge you to stay here and go soon. There’s still beauty aplenty both above and below the water, but I’m not sure what state it’ll be in when Mrs O and I next have a landmark to celebrate. u Stephen travelled Premium Economy with British Airways (ba.com) and stayed at the Constance Prince Maurice, part of Constance Hotels & Resorts. For more information visit constancehotels.com

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

Travel / Marrakech

oroccan M MILESTONE

Marrakech provided all the couscous, colour and Jewish culture for birthday girl Jodie Goldfinger

t’s lovely to mark a significant birthday with a celebration in a new place and I chose Marrakech for my 30th. Magical whirlwind is the best way to describe a trip which was earmarked with depths of vivid colour and the chaos of the medina market, behind which stands the beautiful hideaway gem: La Sultana, Marrakech, our home for the duration. Gold doors tend to suggest luxury and that’s exactly what you get at this ultra-luxe hotel, which has 28 bedrooms and suites in a riad (traditional Moroccan house) setting with all windows overlooking the courtyard. Each room is uniquely designed in the traditional Moroccan style, with sculpted painted ceilings that mirror the overall look of the

Slat El-Azama Synagogue

hotel and has a four-poster king–side beds, lounging areas and enormous bathrooms with tub and shower. I must make mention of the room service provided by staff who pay real attention to detail, and this was the case wherever I went in La Sultana, as making guests feel welcome and comfortable is a priority. This started from the moment we arrived and were served delicious Moroccan mint tea and sweet pastries at the Odette Rooftop Bar of the hotel. The spacious outdoor terrace overlooks the busy streets of the medina, which is exactly what visitors want – a prime spot to watch the action. You can sit there all day if you like, and at night the bar is open for cocktails and mezze plates. The delicious breakfast is served overlooking the heated pool and its a buffet selection reminiscent of an Israeli food fest to start the day with fresh fruit, home-made jams, warm baked bread, pastries and eggs cooked as you like. Once again, the staff were accommodating and happy to incorporate any dietary requests. We enjoyed relaxing in the Sultana wellbeing spa, which has a Jacuzzi, sauna and the famed hammam, aka Moroccan bathhouse. We were keen to experience the hammam, as it’s a unique Moroccan cultural ritual, but after our bodies were soaped and scrubbed with the same vigour as a car wash, I’m not sure it’s the kind of exfoliation I’d repeat in a hurry. Beyond La Sultana, one can wander the streets of Marrakech and

this is a photographer’s dream. Jemaa el-Fna Square is walking distance and, as you’d expect, Moroccan fare is on sale in all directions. From elaborate couscous terrines to spices and slippers, the aromas and colours of the different stalls in the market are exquisite and a feast for the senses. Luckily, my husband speaks French, which comes in handy with the haggling and bargaining over every item in the souk. French and Arabic are the two main languages, but debating the cost of a rug sounds so much more appealing in the former. Crossing the road in Marrakech is interesting, as motorbikes packed with three or more people and children perched on shoulders and handles navigate around you while you attempt to traverse. Just don’t expect any cars or donkeys to stop for you and you’ll be fine. One of the birthday highlights was watching the sunset over the square with tea in hand at Café de France, one of the many rooftop cafés in a city alive with street spectacles that include snake charmers, musicians and colourfully-dressed citizens going about their daily lives. Le Jardin Majorelle, also known as the Yves Saint Laurent garden after the fashion designer purchased it in 1980, offers a calming escape from the hustle and bustle of the market and the vivid blue Cubist villa within it houses the Islamic Art Museum, the Berber Museum and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, which opened in 2017. Morocco also has a vast Jewish heritage and we visited the Slat El-Azama Synagogue in the mellah, or Jewish quarter. The synagogue has many photographs and artifacts that reflect Jewish Moroccan life from the 19th and 20th centuries and the quarter itself borders the

largest Moroccan Jewish cemetery. It was lovely to meet the watchman who has been taking care of the Jewish cemetery for more than 30 years and could tell us about Jewish life in Morocco today. For kosher Israeli/ Moroccan style cuisine, Dar Ima has a dish for everyone. The delicious couscous with vegetables, pastilla and tender beef tangine with prunes left us wanting more so we returned for dinner the next evening! A warm atmosphere and welcoming staff makes this charming restaurant a perfect night out in Marrakech. Too many mint teas, a suitcase packed with souvenirs and the colours of the medina committed to memory was a perfect way to reach my milestone birthday. La Sultana Marrakech www.lasultanahotels.com Dar Ima restaurant +212 5244 36893

31 January 2020 Jewish News

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Marrakech / Travel

Scenes from the ‘souk’, La Sultana pool and spa

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

Travel / Israel

ISRAEL CALLING

It’s time to reacquaint with the promise of the Holy Land, says Brie Bailey

o that’s January over – and time to book a holiday. As always, we’re rooting for Israel, and if you haven’t been for a while, Pesach 2020 is the year to end your Holy Land hiatus. And before lamenting the cost of a visit, think about what you get for the money. Biblical history. Tangible spirituality. Gorgeous people, fantastic food starting at

breakfast – and what about the weather? Israel is also home to some of the best hotels in the world and this is not said lightly. Take The Inbal in Jerusalem, where www.kosher travelers.com is hosting Pesach and with good reason. The Inbal is spectacular, melding the essence of a boutique property with the allure of a grand hotel. After a two-year renovation process of the 331 guest rooms, suites and public

option to extend until April 19th

Elma Hotel in Zichron Ya’akov

spaces at a cost of £80 million, you can see where the money was spent, and the Ministry of Tourism gave it a five-star plus rating. Built entirely from traditional Jerusalem stone, The Inbal offers a range of first-class amenities and personalised services, including gourmet restaurants, state-of-the-art spa and fitness centre, a heated, semi-Olympic pool, as well as artisan and designer shops. www.inbalhotel.com For Pesach, Eddie’s Kosher Travel guests staying at The Inbal will be invited to Jerusalem Great Synagogue, which has one of the world’s biggest collections of Ashkenazi liturgical music and the most internationally acclaimed chazan, Chaim Adler. What a way to herald a chag! But you are spoilt for choice in Israel with Eddie’s Kosher Travel, as the company is also hosting Pesach at the boutique Elma Hotel in Zichron Ya’akov (www.elma-hotel.com) and the Ramada in Netanya (www.ramadanetanya.com) as well as The Hacienda Forest View Hotel nestled in the heights of the Western Galilee (www.c-hotels-israel.com), Hacienda Forestview Hotel

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which caters specifically for families in a building that has the look and feel of a Spanish estate spread over 17 acres of natural green lush forest. Also on the list is Nof Ginosar Hotel set on the shores of Lake Kinneret (english.ginosar.co.il), with stunning views of the magnificent Golan Heights and there, as with all the hosted properties, company founders David and Chana Walles will provide a vibrant atmosphere loaded with guest lectures, customised tours, programmes for children and teenagers and a sophisticated glatt kosher menu. Beyond Pesach and into the summer hotels, Herzliya is a place to go – and The Ritz-Carlton is the place to stay (www.ritzcarlton.com). Like its other properties around the world, the hotel sets the benchmark in luxury and doesn’t rely on bells and whistles to attract guests. There are 115 rooms set over 12 floors, huge beds and fabulous art by local talent. Herbert Samuel, the hotel’s relaxed in-house restaurant takes kosher dining to a new level – and so does the service, which is best described as ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen. The 250 hours of training accounts for the attentive-

31 January 2020 Jewish News

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Israel/ Travel

Pesach 2020 EUROPE

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ness of everyone, and staff also do charity work outside of the hotel as part of the corporate ‘social responsibility’ footprint. Even the hotel’s children’s club – Ritz Kids – is enriching as it is run in part by the Ocean Society, so little ones get an environmental education while their parents use the Shiseido spa. It is also worth noting that the iconic Dan Caesarea Hotel, built by Baron Rothschild for sixties jet-setters has been reinvented (www. danhotels.com). Now it’s a resort and all areas have been refurbished and upgraded so the entire complex of 116 guestrooms and suites now sparkle. It really is an impressive renovation of a property set in 62 acres of landscaped gardens surrounding a huge central pool, which rather uniquely has a pool table standing in it overlooked by trees in which treehouses have been

Inbal Hotel

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embedded. How cute is that? The Danyland Club offers an aquarium, a world of dinosaurs combining a regular sandbox with a 3D projection and more retro games and tech innovations to stop the boredom. Add to this a high-tech fitness centre, a swanky spa, a basketball court, football field, tennis court and innovative culinary surprises and you’ve got your hols covered.

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

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Greece / Travel

Greece

Lightning Brigit Grant has a few bright ideas for Hellenic holidays and a chag

Elysium Resort & Spa

Rhodes

Turning festivals into an opportunity to see the world has long been the agenda of Eddie’s Kosher Travel (www.koshertravelers.com). For 2020, it has chosen the five-star Elysium Resort & Spa in Rhodes. The island is a poignant place to celebrate Passover, as its Jewish population, together with that of neighbouring island Kos, was murdered during the Holocaust and there is a memorial in the old town honouring the 1,604 victims. There is also a beautiful synagogue that welcomes visitors, so a stay at the Elysium means you can visit. The hotel is close to Kallithea Springs, and the 400-metre long Blue Flag-awarded beach on which it sits is one of the finest. Go there with Kosher Travel and your family will get to enjoy the activities, relax by the large garden lagoon and feast (glatt kosher) on food prepared by the top chefs and pastry team. Take advantage of the tours on offer as the island has spectacular scenery, which is the case wherever you go in Greece, but discovering unexplored spots about which you can boast to your friends is a glorious challenge.

Sea views thanks to the Elysium Resort & Spa

Mykonos

Finding somewhere far from the madding crowd in Mykonos isn’t easy since northwest Jewish London arrived on the windmill scattered island, which was previously the sole playground of Europe’s gay cognoscenti. I went there in 1982, but the opening of the bohemian paradise Nomad is a reason to return. Located just 200 meters from Kalo Livadi, one of the most beautiful beaches of the Aegean Sea, Nomad has 13 suites with their own private courtyard, a colour scheme of whites, greys and beiges and organic bed linen. Raw nature in blissful surroundings means full rest after a big night out in Mykonos town. This is chi chi bohemian at its best.

Athens

Going to the islands via Athens is an opportunity to stay at A77 Suites by Andronis, the alleged neighbourhood of the Gods. A77 Suites is housed in a 19th century listed building, which is a gem of neoclassical architecture restored to its former glory. With views of the Acropolis and Athenian rooftops, the 12 suites are spread over four floors, and across five styles: The Petite, the Elegant, Views over Athens

Nomad

the Supreme, The Iconic and The Courtyard. Before booking, remember that The Iconic has the outdoor terrace with a prime view of the Acropolis and a jacuzzi from which to do it. The most exciting thing about A77 is the lobby, which showcases a handpicked collection of fashion by the likes of Missoni, Greek designer Sophi Deloudi and lesser-known upcoming labels. The neighbourhood of the Gods, clustered around the northern and eastern slopes of the Acropolis, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited areas in the world, so there are lots of architectural marvels beside artisan shops, small boutiques, traditional cafes and vibrant tavernas. Best of all, this amazing property is walking distance from the Jewish Museum of Greece. In our desire to find the new, we tend to forget about the old, and Athens is a captivating mix of

A77 Suites

the ancient and the edgy. Spring is the ideal time to do the Jewish tour, visit Olympia and Delphi, and then hop on a boat to the islands. www.nomadsmykonos.com www.a77suitesbyandronis.com If you want to build any of the islands into a Greek holiday or take advantage of a fabulous tour, www.sevtravel.com are the company to get you there. Call 020 368 64675 to plan.

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

Travel / Turkey

Forget the soft play. Let your little stars make movies in Turkey

t might be too late to consider escaping for February half term and that’s with the children – so how about planning May instead and heading for the Hillside but not the green and muddy kind. The Hillside Beach Club in Fethiye,Turkey. Clever thinking and considerate planning by the bosses at Hillside enables guests with children to see little of them during May half-term as that is when the British Film Institute arrives to host a filmmaking course for children aged 14 and under. Aside from being useful and career inspiring for the kids, when they disappear- under supervision- in the foliagefilled 300 acres to construct a plot, choose costumes and record their antics on iPads, parents are free . Free to play tennis, sail,water-ski,visit the gym, join one of the

many exercise and dances classes or just lie down on a sunbed equipped with an app to order cocktails. There is even kid-free Sanda Nature Spa and an adults only Silent Beach. Trust us, this is the closest any parent will get to having a real holiday until the offspring go to university and when a family regroups at the hotel, it’s to eat dinner. The medley of global cuisine on offer at the evening buffet provides solutions for the pickiest eaters and making a choice at the heavily stocked desert stations is the sweetest experience. Throw in the intoxicating smell of pines, sublime service and a priceless balcony view of the turquoise sea in Kalemya Bay and you’ll believe you are in a movie. Of course with the BFI in residence there are screenings of film classics

every night on the beach or on a boat and a closing night premiere starring your own children. Those who aren’t raising the next Macaulay Culkin can rely on the talented entertainment team to occupy the kids at the clubs with pool games and water sports. As the spacious rooms are staggered down the hillside, the climb is not for those who need assistance, but there is a vernicular to ease the journey. So if the thought of another bouncy castle or chlorine drenched indoor pool fills you with dread, take everyone to the Hillside in half term and turn your kid into a star at a five star resort for you.  www.hillside.com.tr/en Flights with www.easyjet.com to Dalaman

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ATHENS & SANTORINI FROM £560

ISTANBUL – CAPPADOCIA, EXPLORER TOUR FROM £599

Including: Flight from Istanbul to Kayseri, all transfers, 3 or 4 star hotel with breakfast, Athens city tour, professional tour guide, entrance fee

Including: Flight from Istanbul to Kayseri, all transfers, 3 or 4 star hotel, breakfast, lunch with all city tour, professional tour guide, Entrance fee

6 Days

6 Days By plane from Istanbul

info@sevtravel.com • 353 Green Lanes London N4 1DZ

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Turkey/ Travel

Looking for the “Purrrr… fect” Holiday in Southern Africa?

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South Africa, Namibia, Zambia, Botswana, Mozambique, Malawi.

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We are the experts with years of on the ground experience.

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100% client satisfaction record ( see reviews TripAdvisor).

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Safaris, Victoria Falls, Cape Town

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Customised itineraries for the more esoteric traveller.

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Honeymoons

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Adventure

Mmilo Tours • www.mmilotours.com • WhatsApp: +27837705298 Tel: +27126545308 • Skype: mmilotours

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Jewish News 31 January 2020

PESACH IN RHODES, GREEK ISLES

Elysium

Resort & SPA Rhodes AWARD WINNING LUXURY

A Slice of Heaven SPECIA LIMITEDL PROMO TION

Harmony resorts Elysium REsoRt & spa

Rabbi Dovid Gottlieb

Avi Liberman

33 Successful years!!!

Naomi Nachman

Dvir Speigel

Guy Zlotnik

Rabbi Dr. Laibl Wolf

Gourmet CUisine

Grandeur

day trips

Entertainment

10 NIGHT PACKAGE

A unique culinary experience with world renowned chefs, offering a rich variety of cuisine, On Site Bar & Afternoon Tea. ‫כשרות מהדרין ללא שרויה‬ ‫הרב נ רוטנברג וינה אוסטריה‬

Indulge in an unforgettable 5 star stunning Resort. Discover your most precious moments in Rhodes’ premier deluxe beach front property.

Chol Hamoed outings with professional tour guides, biking, boating, hiking, shopping and other local attractions.

Daily activities and programs for all ages. World famous Entertainers, Scholars and lecturers, Kids & Teen Camps, On site Escape Room & more…

Personally Hosted, Private, Family and Communal Seder. Chag Sheni Seder & Minyan. Short flights from TLV and European Capitals, 20 min drive from Rhodes Airport. Tues 7 - Fri 17 April 2020

31 January 2020 Jewish News

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Italy/ Travel

SECRET

Lake Garda

Desenzano

Louisa Walters enjoys out-of-season sunshine in a luxury bed and breakfast

ne of my new discoveries is offseason travel. Not only are prices lower but places are quieter, giving you that satisfying sensation of having sneaky special access. Plus - added bonus - spring and autumn sunshine means that summer is beautifully elongated. Villa San Pietro, a B&B in a quiet Italian town called Montichiari in Brescia, near Lake Garda, and also just an hour from Milan and Verona, has been in the same family for 500 years. A cheap, quick (under two hours) Ryanair flight delivered us to Milan Bergamo and our hosts met us at the airport. Clear your mind of all conjured-up visions of a B&B. This is a HUGE house, oozing with original features (beams and frescoes among them) and filled with exquisite antique furniture, paintings, china, glassware and ornaments. There are stairways and passageways and nooks and crannies. The garden has a pond and loggias and seating areas and fruit trees and ducks and rabbits. It’s divine. And the hosts, Anna and her French husband Jacques, are equally so. Warm, generous and such good company! You arrive as guests and you leave as friends. Anna is a talented and generous cook, taught by her great-grandmother and her father. Her grandmother was an artist whose handiwork can be seen in paintings and in

Pasta-making classes with Anna (above)

tablecloths all over the house - meanwhile, many of the tablecloths have been embroidered by her mother. It’s like a family edition of Italy’s Got Talent. One night’s dinner is included in your stay and guests dine with Anna and Jacques at their beautiful dining room table in front of the huge inglenook fireplace. In her youth Anna spent a year living with a Jewish family in the States and it shows. Before our visit she quizzed me on what we would and wouldn’t eat and made sure that the fridge was stocked with suitable options. For dinner she served us summer/ autumn mini omelettes and bresaola (swapped out from proscuitto) followed by slow-cooked beef and potatoes from her great grandma’s recipe book, finished with tiramisu. So simple, so rustic, so Italian. The wine flowed and so did the conversation. Anna and Jacques both have huge interest in and knowledge of our Jewish traditions and we chatted about everything from intermarriage to Chrismakkah! After a sound night’s sleep to the sound of nothing but silence in our vast antique bed, we woke to warm sunshine and after a light breakfast under the original frescoes in the magnificent breakfast room, Jacques took my husband on a long bike ride and Anna took me into the kitchen for a pasta-making class. Why make it when you can buy it? I would be the first to say this. But the undeniable enjoyment of the whole process, and the reward of eating your own homemade tagliatelle simply tossed in butter and sage overrides any thoughts of ‘convenience’. Anna also taught me how to make a superb mushroom risotto, a mozzarella & tomato puff pastry ring and a traditional Italian Sbrisolona, which is a crumbly almond tart. The verb ‘sbrisolare’ comes from ‘briciole’, which means ‘crumbles’. It’s typical of the region of Mantova and is eaten in Brescia because of the proximity to the border (and at Villa San Pietro because Anna’s mum is from Mantova!). We devoured the whole lot that evening. We drove 30 -minutes to the town of Desenzano on Lake Garda and took a 15-minute boat trip to stunning Sirmione, filled with gorgeous shops and cafes. Gelato

in hand we wandered the narrow, cobbled streets, each one ending with a spectacular view of the glistening lake. The next morning, we explored Montichiari, home to Castello Di Bonoris, Duomo Di Santa Maria (whose dome can be seen far and wide) and where on Sunday mornings there’s a flea market filling the square and surrounding streets with goodnatured bartering and some choice finds. After lunch in a surprisingly modern trattoria, we drove to Borghetto, a medieval village with a watermill which was so peaceful. All sounds fab but Italy is SO expensive, you’re thinking. Not this part of Italy. Rooms at Villa San Pietro are around £80 a night;Borghetto main courses a tenner;ice creams €1.5. Cappuccinos €1.4 and off season flights are cheap. You can grazie mille me when you get back.

Sirmione

Pesach 5780 in Siracusa Sicily, Italy 7 – 19 April

Glatt Kosher, No Kitnyoth no Gebrocht Rav P. Padwa – Rav M. Hadad

• Shiurim in several languages • Italian Gourmet Cuisine • Tours in Sicily • Ashkenazy and Sephardi Minyon, shared • Kid’s club • Private Beaches

ORAH Kosher Events: +39 328 7057693 info@orah.it | www.orah.it

Special Guest! Eliran Elbaz

in partnership with: ADVENTURES in Jewish Italy: +1 347 5605848 www.adventuresinjewishitaly.com

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PESACH 5780 in BOURNEMOUTH The Queens Hotel & Spa

Tuesday 7th – Friday 17th April 2020 • Hosted by Judy & Brian Lassman • Rabbi Geoffrey Shisler & Chazan Colin Dworkin in Residence. In house Shul. • All Inclusive including two Communal Sedarim (Private Sedarim by arrangement)

• Fine Wines & All Beverages included • We take care of all Dietary Requirements • Full Entertainment Programme, Excursion, Family Activities & Guest Speakers • Special Family Arrangements (Including a Kid’s Club & Junior Kiddush)

• Spa Facilities & Indoor Swimming Pool • A small deposit secures the Holiday • Under Strict Supervision of London Beth Din • We have an extended check out until Sunday 19th (Please ask for more information)

pesach@queenshotelbournemouth.com or Daniel Marsh 01202 554415

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Historical haven / Travel

DISCOVERING THE DISTRICT Louisa Walters finds beauty and emotive history in Cumbria

his week’s BBC drama The Windermere Children shed new light on the kindness of the people and the beauty of a region that provided a safe haven for 300 children who were rescued from the Holocaust. This story adds a new poignancy to a trip we made to Cumbria before the film, arriving in in Sedbergh on a day when the wind was whipping the steady drizzle into a chilly mist that made the view of Howgill Fells most atmospheric. A cosy pub with a fire was called for, and The Black Bull, owned and renovated by Nina and James, could not have been more ideal (www. theblackbullsedbergh.co.uk). Nina’s GermanJapanese heritage explains the blend of traditional pub features with clean-line minimalism. Downstairs is full of stone and timber, with a wood-burning stove; upstairs are modern rooms with homemade biscuits hanging in a welcome pouch on the door. Huge comfy beds, painted panelling and wool throws are the backdrop to magnificent views of the fells. James is the pub landlord, while Nina works wonders in the kitchen, sending out dishes such as wild sea bass with butternut and corn, Hereford Tomahawk to share, plus the regional speciality dessert, sticky toffee pudding. The next day, in springlike – sunny but chilly – weather, we set off for The Cottage in the Wood (www.thecottageinthewood. co.uk), tucked deep in the Whinlatter mountain forest. A spectacular drive took us past Lake Windermere to the 17th century restaurant with rooms, which won a Michelin star just after our visit. If you’re a hiker, cyclist or

Above: A luxurious room at The Black Bull, kachori chaat at Gilpin Spice and Louisa and husband

Above: The Black Bull in Sedbergh. Below: Beautiful views at The Samling Hotel in Windermere

nature lover, this is a great spot and, if you’re a foodie, your dreams come true with the sevencourse Taste Cumbria menu (£70) which is a culinary tour of the landscape, through Stream (trout), Hedgerow (sweet herbs), Woodland, Coast, Fells and Forest. Every dish was brilliantly thought out, beautifully presented and well explained. As night fell over Skiddaw, we retreated to the cosy lounge for tea, petit fours and a nose through the well-stocked bookshelves. You are guaranteed a good nights’ sleep in the comfortable rooms – other than the occasional owl hoot, there is nothing to disturb your slumber deep in the forest. This is truly a special treat. A windy autumnal evening brought heavy rain that stopped just as we arrived for dinner at Gilpin Spice at Gilpin Hotel & Lake House near Windermere (https: //thegilpin.co.uk). Here, we were transported into another world. Gilpin Spice has the buzz of

PLACES TO VISIT Windermere Library

From Auschwitz to Ambleside is an exhibition of photos and documents about the Windermere children.

Westwood books, Sedbergh

Home to 70,000 second-hand, antiquarian and new books.

Blackwell Arts and Crafts House, Bowness-on-Windermere

Grade I listed Arts & Crafts house designed as a holiday home for Sir Edward Holt and

WIndermere Jetty Cafe

later used as a school. Stunning interiors and interesting history about life and décor in Victorian times.

Levens Hall, Kendal

Elizabethan House with 10 acres of magnificent gardens, including one of the oldest and most spectacular topiary gardens in England. It has a fabulous new café.

Windermere Jetty, Windermere

Westwood Books

Magnificent new modern museum on the shores of Windermere charting the history of life on the lake. A must for maritime enthusiasts.

a London brasserie, the decor of a Firmdale hotel, and the menu of Trishna, Roka and The Good Earth rolled into one. A whole new concept for this part of the world, it is truly fitting as Cumbria has a fascinating history as a centre of the spice trade. Standout dishes include a velvety masala veloute with a crispy samosa to balance out the smoothness, and kachori chaat – fried puff pastry filled with potato, yoghurt and wild garlic chutney. The £25 set lunch at The Samling Hotel in Windermere (www.thesamlinghotel.co.uk) has the best food and views in the best surroundings with the best service you could ask for

at that price. The hotel has been beautifully refurbished with a huge glass-walled restaurant added on to make the most of the setting and spectacular scenery. The best sourdough comes with a beautiful whipped herb butter that you can’t help but pile it on thick! Courgette flowers and a truffle and mushroom risotto were followed by a beautiful piece of cod atop creamed leeks with mildly curried cream sauce. Desserts were a revelation, especially the decadent chocolate millefeuille. With new revelations about the Lake District providing a home for Jewish refugee children, there is more than one reason to embrace the area’s multifaceted beauty and humanity.

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Travel / Beauty Abroad

Passport to PURCHASE Travel reveals the world’s best products, says Brigit Grant WHENEVER MY FRIEND Natalie’s mother goes on holiday she always returns with a new scent. It could just as easily be a body cream or an eye gel, but it will be by an unknown brand and rarely available in the UK. From Spain Natalie’s mum brought back Gotas Frescas, which turned out to be the ideal ‘agua de colonia’ for early morning school runs and a cruise stopover resulted in the purchase of a skin smoothing oil that was so effective it removed the name on the bottle. Inspired by her finds I now make a point of trawling supermarket shelves, unlikely shops and duty free halls in whatever country I’m visiting, hoping to find the elusive ‘eau de something’that smells like Le Labo for a tenth of the price. In flight duty free mags also bear facial fruit even on Easyjet or onboard RyanAir which sells the exclusive French brand Payot beloved by skin-concious Parisians. Roselift Collagène(£30) is their much praised collagen-boosting peptide eye cream for dark circles and puffiness.Not available to buy at www.payot.com it directs you to the likes of John Bell & Croydon on Wigmore Street, but I found it at www.parfumdreams.co.uk. In Faro airport a charming Portuguese sales assistant introduced me to Caudalie, the French company behind a fragrance range which includes Thé des Vignes Fresh Fragrance (£27) which has the scent of dusk falling on the grapevines. Poetic as that is, the white musk, orange blossom and jasmine combo accounts for the delicious smell you can buy at www.caudalie.com. I’ve yet to go to New Zealand, but it was there that

sisters Sarah Gibbs and Catherine de Groot clocked the powerful benefits of rosehip oil which they use in their Trilogy brand (www.trilogyproducts.co.uk) as recommended by a Virgin Atlantic stewardess. Her enthusiasm for the Firming Body Lotion £15.50 which nourishes and tightens up skin for hols and smells of lavender, frankincense and rose geranium works in tandem with a few drops of Trilogy Rosehip Oil Antioxidant£31.50, (www. hollandandbarrett.com) which replenishes and renews the skin as the anti-oxidant protects from external aggressors. You need to know about anti-oxidants by the way. With so much access to duty free and overseas products, flight attendants on long haul know what works and if they say Dr Hauschka Lemon Lemongrass Vitalising Body Oil £21 (www.drhauschka.co.uk) lifts the spirits, invigorates and tones the skin while shifting cellulite – I’m buying it. Enquiring about a passenger’s fragrance on the Eurostar or asking a waitress to reveal a lipstick shade is all done in the name of research, hence the discovery of Femme Beauty’s Lumi Glow £29 (www.polishedlondon.com) in the Ladies at Heathrow. A smidgen of gel gave this tired traveller a radiant glow and she was only too happy to share info on the grapeseed infused oil which also reduces wrinkles and scars. The accompanying Lumi Mist is also good ahead of applying makeup or as a finishing spray. My husband would like me to find a finishing spray to stop product shopping. I’ll be sure to ask if I spot someone using it.

Roselift Collagène Triolgy Firming Body Lotion and Body Wash

Dr Hauschka Lemon Lemongrass Vitalising Body Oil

Thé des Vignes Fresh Fragrance

Femme Beauty Lumi Mist

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My Kosher Hotel Canazei, Italy

Pessach 2020 Activities • • • • • • • •

Ski rentals delivered to the hotel Ice skating Sleigh rides Snow boarding Tobogganing Cross country ski Best ski schools Multiple ski lifts a short walk from the hotel including a new cable car to Belvedere • Table tennis • Dolaondes aquatic and water fun center • Ski season in Canazei is fully open for all of Chol HaMoed this year!

Amenities • Kids club, ages 3+ • Indoor swimming pool with separate and family hours • Sauna • Gym • Spa • Elegant year round shul • Eruv Tchum Shabbat • Gracious & experienced staff • Full board with sumptuous tea room • Private or group Seders • Babysitters, additional fee • Shuttle to the slopes • Van transfer available from Venice airport -additional fee

Location • Set in a picturesque traditional Italian ski village with boutique shops • Spectacular views of the Dolomite World Heritage Site • Great base for day trips to Verona, Bolzano, Ortisei, Cortina (Winter Olympics 2026) Marmolada (Queen of the Dolomites)

Early Bird Pricing: Starting at 1,650 Euro for 10 days For bookings made before Feb 7th!

Organized by Belinda & Avi Netzer: 17 years in the business Under The Supervision of Rav Rabinowitz | Admur Mibiale | Non Gebrokts mykosherhotel@gmail.com | info@mykosherhotel.it +39.046.260.2460 | Mobile: +39.338.170.9221/ +39.333.289.6806

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Israel's premIere

Pesach Programs

33 Successful years!!!

GourmEt cuiSinE PrivatE & Family SEdErS ScholarS & Shiurim tourS & attractionS rESidEnt hoStS

EntErtainmEnt daily activitiES

Galil: Hacienda Forest View Hotel Kineret: Nof Ginosar hotel Netanya: Ramada Suites hotel Zichron Yakov: Elma Luxury Hotel

Jerusalem South: Ramat Rachel Resort Jerusalem City: Inbal hotel Judean Hills: Neve ilan hotel Rhodes Greek Isles: Elysium Resort & SPA