Júlia Fontanellas Teacher: Nicolás Godon BA Fashion Marketing and Communication 2021-202 Level 5 5FAMK003C Visual Languages ll
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. COPORATE PROFILE 2. MARKET POSITION 3. CURRENT SITUATION 4. COMMUNICATION BACKGROUND 5. COMMUNICATION TASK 6.TARGET MARKET 7 GOALS 9. WHERE TO LOOK FOR INSPIRATION 10. WHAT NOT TO DO 11. FASHION EDITORIAL 12. LOOKBOOK
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CORPORATE PROFILE Gucci was founded by Guccio Gucci in Florence, Italy in 1921. The brand is known for eclectic modern pieces that represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship, unmatched in quality, attention to detail and imaginative design. Everything started when Gucci settled in London in 1897 to work at Savoy Hotel as a bellhop. There he learned about his wealthy clients’ tastes in fashion, quality, fabrics and traveling conditions. It was in 1921 when he bought his own shop in Florence selling imported leather luggage, and he also opened a small workshop to have his own leather goods fabricated by local craftsmen. Then in 1937, Gucci introduced its own handbags. During World War ll, Gucci artisans made boots for Italian infantry and due to material shortages, the company made handbags from cotton instead of leather. Between 1953 and 1973, Gucci opened its three US stores in New York, the first one was in 5th Avenue and 58th street, the second one in the Saint Regis Hotel and the third one on 5th Avenue and 54th Street. As a result this New York are was called “Gucci City” by local people. This era is known as Dolce Vita because everything was going well, the company started opening new shops around the world, for instance, in London and Palm Beach, also in Europe they opened the first
French store near Place Vendome in Paris. With Rodeo Drive’s store opening Hollywood stars were driven there to endorse the brand and it was for this reason to start launching Gucci’s first dresses. Furthermore, Gucci was one of the first brands who partnered with a car’s corporation, American Motors Corporation, and launched a Rolls-Royce luggage set. Between 1981 and 1987, Gucci’s trademarked sales reached about $400 million, and only in 1990 $227. The problem was that in 1980 Gucci’s position as a exclusive luxury brand was being affected due to mass-production. Currently, Alessandro Michele is the creative director of Gucci, he had been working for the brand since 2002. He introduced and mixed “a different Gucci” with a “sophisticated, intellectual and androgynous feel. Alessandro Michele pioneered the revival of Gucci. He revived Gucci classics like the double G logo the Jackie O. bag, and created iconic products like the Dionysus tote. With feminine menswear, a strong feminist stance and a “geek chic” style, Alessandro Michele presents a post-gender prop for Gucci.
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MARKET POSITION
Gucci is known for producing high-quality, durable leather goods. This may help attract people who are not looking for items not necessarily because of the brand itself, but because they will last. That, in turn, may help justify higher prices to some of the more casual consumers. They are capturing the attention of people who want to experience this type of luxury, but still not alienate the middle and lower income segments of their target audience. In conclusion, while the brand has not specifically changed its segmentation process, it has shifted its target to a younger customer base, which depends on the brand’s reputation to keep its old customers loyal. It has achieved great success by increasing its online presence and through bold new design choices, positioning itself to keep the attention of this fast-growing demographic.
POSITIONING MAP
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CURRENT SITUATION There are many reasons for Gucci to be one of the most wished brands in the world, for instance the fact of having Harry Styles or Jared Leto as brand ambassadors, or also collaborating with massive streetwear firms such as The North Face. Today, Gucci is striving to redefine luxury in the 21st century, an ambition co-led by the brand’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, and its chief executive, Marco Bizzarri, since 2015. Colorful, romantic, poetic and magical, Michele’s unique vision has garnered huge acclaim, while also forging a real emotional bond with younger customers. The creative director of the brand has not only positioned the brand in a cooler universe but has changed the industry from the aesthetic, creative and business point of view with his particular way of understanding fashion and presenting it. Michele diluted the genders, ended taboos about what people can wear or not and placed those who had always been considered outsiders at the center of his proposal. With this he achieved a great impact and opened the range of what can be considered beautiful. In addition, the scourge took effect and Gucci doubled its income and tripled its profits between 2015 and 2019. With an erudite reading of cultural and fashion history, Michele’s multifaceted approach successfully blends playfulness with Italian Renaissance, Gothic aesthetics and a DIY punk attitude. Now more than ever, glamour, innovation and a commitment to progress lead Gucci to take a radically modern approach to fashion.
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COMMUNICATION BACKGROUND It is worth to highlight that most of Gucci’s success as a global brand it is thanks to its advertising. Advertising is all about building fantasy and wonder around a fashion house, developed over time with the advent of printing and photography. First of all, it is important to mention Timeless, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection, the brand pulled from its archives two iconic figures from the 1970s: British actor Peter Sellers and German supermodel Veruschka. Peter appeared in a photo at the airport accompanied by his wife. Both of them were lugging a Gucci travel bag. Veruschka, on the other hand, took her dog for a walk in a wide-brimmed hat and two Gucci shoulder bags. Gucci’s history plays an integral role in the brand’s desire for renewal and innovation. These were the thoughts that immediately came to our mind when investigating the photographic archives of previous ad campaigns. These pictures speak not only for Gucci’s heritage, but of society as a whole. They are the solidified witness of the fashion spirit of the times, and have played an important role in the way fashion is spread.
An important period of Gucci advertising was the era of Tom Ford as creative director from 1994 to 2004. Although responsible for Gucci’s image since 1994, it wasn’t until autumn/winter 1995 that Gucci’s seasonal advertising campaign began. His campaign at the time was an extension of Gucci’s creative strategy, closely related to the creative style of photographer Mario Testino.
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These type of Gucci’s advertisement was characterized, in three words, by luxury, strength, and sex. Mario Testino wasn’t the only one who exemplified these themes, but Luis Sanchis (Spring/Summer 1998), Steven Klein (Fall/Winter 1998), Alexei Hay (Fall/Winter 2000) and Terry Richardson (Fall/Winter 2001 and Spring/Summer 2002) also showed the sensual Gucci trademark. After Tom Ford’s era, which ended in 2004, Gucci entered in an uncertain period. Alessandra Facchinetti stayed as Gucci’s creative director for a short time due to disagreements with the management. She took the helm and did three seasons Spring/Summer Resort 2005, Resort 2005 and Fall/Winter 2005. Furthermore, in her few seasons she was
working with Mario Testino, Craig McDean, and Mert & Marcus for the ad campaigns.
Under the leadership of Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s aesthetics has drastically changed. It started with the Pre-Fall 2015 collection. The clean lines employed by Giannini were subverted by Michele’s exaggerated designs bor-
dering on cheesy designs, promoting photographers like Glen Luchford and Ignasi Monreal to execute the designer’s whimsical fantasies.
The succeeding of Facchinetti was Frida Gianni. She redefined the ad campaigns exchanging sexuality for a more sophisticated sensuality. Gianni’s first campaign was Spring/Summer 2005. As a difference, Gianni’s campaigns were focused on Gucci’s tradition more than the scandals creation as was it seen in Mario Testino’s images under the direction of Tom Ford. Her ad campaigns were a tribute to the roots of the brand and Gucci’s craft tradition. The last go ad campaigns under Frida Gianni was for the Cruise 2015 collection.
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COMMUNICATION TASK The message of the campaign is to bring back the sensuality that Tom Ford created during his period as Gucci’s creative director without losing Alessandro Michele aesthetics and essence. Looking Gucci’s advertising history since Alessandro Michele as the creative director of the brand, the is having more or less the same lately, it is difficult to know exactly if a product is from the last season or not because they are always on the same line. It does not mean that they are not doing well, on the contrary, the house is still one of the tops of the world. Alessandro Michele has brought breathtaking, new proposals and fresh air to the brand so the idea is to maintain these aesthetics but taking into account the sensuality once Gucci had in the 90s and 2000s thanks to Tom Ford. It is going to be something that will take people’s attention because 2000s is a huge trend nowadays in the industry of fashion, many brands are going back to 2000s icons.
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TARGET MARKET Demographically, Gucci’s clothing line is segmented by gender and age. Gucci offers a different collection of leather goods for men and women adults and children respectively. In terms of economic segmentation, Gucci generally does not consider catering to working- or middle-class incomes. This may be due to its status as a Veblen commodity, which means that its high price only increases demand as consumers perceive its quality and exclusivity. Because of this, Gucci is very aware of the countries where its stores are located, whether internationally or domestically. So for geographic segmentation, it has historically located most of its outlets in Europe and North America. Recently, however, Gucci has increased its presence in emerging economies, mainly Asia and the Middle and Far East. In addition, Gucci also recognizes that its fastest-growing audience is the younger generation. Francois-Henri Pinault, chairman and CEO of parent company Kering, said that about 50% of Gucci’s sales come from millennials. As such, the company has focused its recent ad campaigns on this demographic (Forbes 2017). For instance, it has recruited new celebrity models, such as Harry Styles, who is more recognized by younger audiences. Gucci’s brand is basically aimed at a high-end audience, focusing on wealthy extroverts who want to show off their clothes. Over the years, it has targeted the lifestyle of its clients, who primarily seek statement pieces for any particular function. Behaviorally, Gucci relies on brand reputation and loyalty to differentiate it from its competitors (Kotler P. et al, 2008). As with most luxury fashion items, customers expect their items to have many uses, so the quality of the item will be an important factor in whether customers will return or switch brands.
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GOALS From the beginning, brand’s idea was to create a one-ofa-kind product, but to create a culture of inclusion. Gucci’s approach entails producing products that appeal to many different groups of people. As it is already stated, the main objective is to bring back the sensuality and the explicit elegance that Tom Ford gave to Gucci when he was the creative director. Furthermore, as it is now, the intention is not to change Alessandro Michele’s stamp but to mix both styles.
through their designs this style. Moreover, Gucci’s goal is to capitalize on trends and appeal to all genders. However, Kering and Gucci have figured out how to engage with the younger generation — a value-driven group looking for inclusion and empowerment.
These goals can be measured by increased profits, increased visibility (e.g. number of followers on social media, earned media), and a stronger and more transparent relationship between custoIn addition, with this aesthe- mers and brands (which can tic Gucci is going to follow be analyzed by the number of the 2000s trend which is ha- shared media Gucci receives). ving a huge impact right now and many brands are shaping
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WHERE TO FIND INSPIRATION The inspiration can be taken from Tom Ford’s ad campaigns - how he used to communicate and how were the visuals he was using to produce the idea he had in mind. Gucci has always been very clear about their storytelling and emotions, so the brand should take what is doing now Alessandro Michele and mix it with the aesthetics from the 2000s. The balance between sensuality, inclusivity and modernity should be essential inspiration to make this editorial relevant for consumers and to keep Gucci as one in the top-of-mind of luxury fashion.
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WHAT NOT TO DO...
Many things have to be taken into account in order to create a good editorial. It is important to avoid the overload of complements in the editorial photographs, the focus has to be on the models and the design. The editorial should avoid neutrality and naturalness. The editorial has to show sensuality but without looking coarse, it is important to remember that Gucci has taken a turn with Alessandro Michele, and these aesthetics cannot be changed.
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EDITORIAL BRIEF
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STYLIST Alba Melendo Garcia is a freelance Spanish fashion stylist. She studied journalism in Spain and specialized in fashion at the Marangoni Academy in Milan. She worked in Milan for various magazines so she is specialized in doing editorials. Currently, Alba is working for Vogue Cz as fashion editor, and as a freelance stylist, she has also collaborated with multiple editions of Vogue and other independent magazines. It is important to highlight that Alba never worked for Gucci before but they are coinciding in many aspects, and would be an opportunity for the brand to be open-minded and receptive to new influences. She is very good combining different colors with spaces and she will create an equivalent balance between Alessandro Michele’s vision of vintage maximalism and Tom Ford’s powerful sense of minimalistic sex appeal.
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MAKE UP & HAIR
Diane Kendal and Paul Hanlon will be responsible for make up and hair. Diane Kendal is a British make up artist, but she is currently living in New York City. For the editorial the focus of the make up lays on the eyes, the intention is to create a seductive look but without being too much, only using different color types of eye shadows, gently applied, matching he colors of the designs. Regarding hair, Paul Hanlon, from England, is known for his bold approach to hair, he has already worked for Gucci so he knows the right way to do it well. The idea is to achieve a natural hair, women will wear their hair with waves or just their natural hair open, we are not looking for extravagant hair styles.
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MODEL CASTING The selected models for the editorial should give 90s and 2000s vibes in order match with the idea. As far as the female casting, we are contemplating several options, finstance, Greta Hofer is an Austrian fashion model, she already worked for important firms such as Prada and Miu Miu. Also, Kyla Coleman based in New York, she worked for Skims and Valentino. Another option would be Quinn Elin, she is an American fashion model who has worked for famous brands such as Miu Miu and Chanel. Regarding male casting, Alton Mason is an American fashion model, he has been awarded as Model of the Year. He has already worked for Gucci and many other recognized brands such as Chanel, Givenchy and Bottega Veneta. Another option would be Dagsen Love, who also worked for Gucci. The aim of the model casting is to look for specific models that can express by their faces attractiveness but not in a way just for having beautiful faces but a more alternative beauty.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are a love and artistic couple. They started by publishing independent magazines such as Dazed & Confused. Since then they have become an iconic duo and have worked for multiple prestigious brands such as DSquared2, Armani, Calvin Klein and Gucci. Their photographs are featured by having a heavy post-production, being bright, with strong contrasts and very colorful, so much so that textures tend to be shiny and plastic. When it comes to the editorial it is perfect, the intention is to take very strong photographs combining bright color, either from the designs and the background, with models and the staging.
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PREPARATION AND ART DIRECTION
As soon as all the necessary tools and people are decided, Gucci will finally book the models, set up all the contracts with hair and make up, the stylist and the photographer. The photoshoot will take place in an interior space, still has to be determined, but the idea is to take create an intimate place for the photos to be taken where the focus has to be the models and the designs, not the background. As Alessando Michele is Gucci’s Creative Director he will also be in charge for the art direction of the editorial, he knows exactly how to convert the ideas into an authentic editorial.
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MODEL DIRECTION
In order to do a proper work models need to receive a detailed brief before the shoot as every editorial has a different approach. The purpose is to do a shoot where, mainly, models are in pairs and a few photos single. Their facial expressions have to show desire and sensuality to the other person. The models will pose, as it is already said, in an artificial background in different colors matching the outfits and a few complements will appear, for instance maybe we need a bed sheet, a bed or a sofa.
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GUCCI SPRING 2022 READY-TO-WEAR
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LOOKBOOK
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