Fashion trend diffusion within generation X and Y female consumers in Portugal by JGARCEZ

UNIVERSITY OF THE ARTS LONDON LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION

AN EXPLORATORY STUDY OF HOW FASHION TRENDS DIFFUSE WITHIN FEMALE FASHION CONSUMERS FROM GENERATION X AND Y IN PORTUGAL MA FASHION RETAIL FINAL DISSERTATION

Course: MA FASHION RETAIL Student ID: DOS12377160 Student Name: Joana Garcez Date: 29th November 2013 Tutor: Bethan Alexander

‘’ It would be positive for all Portuguese fashion consumer to create more roots in fashion and in their personal style (…) To take ‘’risks’’ on fashion is still a taboo for many people. (…) Unfortunately there is still a stigma around fashion in Portugal and it is still seen as something that is futile (…) I think that those preconceived ideas should stop and people should be more open to fashion.’’

- Carolina Flores (Portuguese Fashion blogger)

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER I - INTRODUCTION 1.1 Research context and rationale ............................................................................. 4 1.2 Theoretical perspectives ........................................................................................ 5 1.3 Aims and Objectives .............................................................................................. 6 1.4 Proposed research methodology ........................................................................... 7 1.5 Chapter Outline ...................................................................................................... 8

CHAPTER II - THE PORTUGUESE FASHION RETAIL MARKET AND LOCAL RETAILERS 2.1 Overview of the current fashion market ...............................................................14 2.2 Local retailer brands – the emergence of the format, the influence on consumer purchase behaviour in Portugal. ................................................................................15 2.2.1 The local retailer segment and its future ...........................................................17

CHAPTER III - CONSUMER MOTIVATION AND PURCHASE INTENTIONS 3.1 Consumer behaviour studies ...............................................................................19 3.2 Generational studies linked to fashion purchase .................................................20 3.3 The ‘’self’’ concept and identity ............................................................................23 3.4 Life stage and product involvement ..................................................................... 26 3.5 Culture and cultural influences .............................................................................26 3.6 Reference groups ................................................................................................28 3.6.1 Opinion Leaders ................................................................................................29 3.7 Media and Brands ................................................................................................30

CHAPTER IV - THEORIES ON TREND DIFFUSION 4.1 Definitions of trend, fashion forward, style and fashion ....................................... 33 4.2 Theories on trend diffusion ..................................................................................33 4.3 Literature review summary ...................................................................................36 4.3.1 The research models ........................................................................................36

CHAPTER V - RESEARCH METHODOLOGY 5.1 Introduction .......................................................................................................... 39

5.2 Research aims and objectives .............................................................................40 5.2.1 Aim ....................................................................................................................40 5.2.2 Objectives ......................................................................................................... 40 5.2.3 Research questions ..........................................................................................41 5.2 Research Philosophy ...........................................................................................42 5.4 Research approach ..............................................................................................42 5.4 Research Design ................................................................................................. 43 5.4.1 Research purpose and research choice ...........................................................43 5.4.2 Research strategy .............................................................................................43 5.4.3 Research time horizon ......................................................................................45 5.5 Data collection methods .......................................................................................45 5.5.1 Secondary research: Literature review .............................................................45 5.5.2 Primary research ...............................................................................................47 5.5.2.1 Interviews ................................................................................................... 47 5.5.2.1.1 Local retailers ........................................................................................47 5.5.2.1.2 Industry experts ....................................................................................48 5.5.2.1.3 Fashion consumers ...............................................................................49 5.5.2 Focus group .................................................................................................. 50 5.6 Data analysis ....................................................................................................... 52 5.7 Ethics ...................................................................................................................53 5.8 Methodology limitations .......................................................................................54 5.9 Chapter Summary ................................................................................................56

CHAPTER VI â&#x20AC;&#x201C; FINDINGS AND DISCUSSION 6.1 Local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends ....................................... 57 6.1.1 The significance of local retailers within fashion retail market in Portugal. ....... 57 6.1.2 Local retailers target consumer ......................................................................... 59 6.1.3 The importance of meeting the latest fashion trends and how do they meet them ...........................................................................................................................60 6.1.3.1 Trend information and inspiration sources ...................................................60 6.1.4 The reasons for international brand offer ..........................................................61 6.1.4.1 Communication to target consumer .............................................................61 6.1.5 Challenges and opportunities of marketing to generation X and Y ...................62 6.1.5.1 Fashion consumption differences between younger and older age segments ...................................................................................................................63

6.2 Key influences that impact consumer attitudes and purchase intentions towards fashion trends ............................................................................................................64 6.2.1 Buying behaviour of each generation ...............................................................64 6.2.1.1 Purchase frequencies and the importance of fashion ................................... 64 6.2.1.2 With whom do they shop ................................................................................65 6.2.1.3 Fashion brand choices ...................................................................................66 6.2.1.3.1 Brand associations and attitudes from each generation ............................68 6.2.1.3.2 How do brands get generation X and Y attention ...................................... 69 6.2.1.3.3 Importance of brands to each generation: Brand awareness ....................70 6.2.2 Most considerable influences on generation X and Y fashion purchases........ 71 6.2.2.1 Fashion inspiration sources ........................................................................ 73 6.2.3 Choice criteria for fashion purchase ................................................................75 6.3 Each generation perception of trend, the meaning of fashionable, and how that influences trend adoption behaviour .......................................................................... 76 6.3.1 Generation X and Y’s interest in fashion ...........................................................76 6.3.2 Generation X and Y trend perception and the meaning of fashionable ............77 6.3.3. Each generation ‘’openness’’ to new fashion trends – Rogers (2003) adopter categorization. ............................................................................................................78 6.3.4 Each generation key influencers on trend adoption behaviour .........................80 6.3.5 The influence of personal values on trend adoption behaviour. .......................81 6.4 The influence of opinion leaders on generation X and Y ..................................... 82 6.4.1 Generation X and Y perception of fashion opinion leaders ...............................83 6.4.1.1 Which opinion leaders? .................................................................................84 6.4.1.2 Celebrities and their influence on trend perception ....................................... 86 6.4.2 The influence of fashion opinion leaders on each generation trend perception and adoption behaviour .............................................................................................89 6.5 The relationship between generational and cultural backgrounds and fashion trend adoption and diffusion.......................................................................................91 6.5.1 Cultural and generational aspects influencing trend adoption behaviour ......... 91 6.5.2 How trend adoption behaviour defines each generation and their openness to fashion? .....................................................................................................................93

CHAPTER VII - CONCLUSION 6.1 Introduction .......................................................................................................... 95 6.2 Revisiting aim and objectives ...............................................................................95 6.2.1 Local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends .................................... 95

6.2.2 How key influencers of each generation and their trend perception affect consumer purchase behaviour and trend adoption behaviour ................................... 96 6.2.3 How cultural and generational backgrounds influence consumer openness to fashion trends ............................................................................................................97 6.5 Limitations ............................................................................................................97 6.6 Contributions to academic and management fields .............................................98 6.8 Recommendations for future research ................................................................. 99 References ...............................................................................................................101 Appendices ..............................................................................................................108 TABLE OF FIGURES Figure 2.1. Fashion retail market in Portugal ............................................................14 Figure 2.2. Timeline of local fashion retailers ............................................................16 Figure 3.1. Internal and external influences on consumer behaviour ........................19 Figure 3.2. Hofstede's cultural dimensions model .....................................................24 Figure 3.3. Portugal scores the lowest index on Individualism .................................. 24 Figure 4.1. Rogers' Diffusion of innovations curve and Gladwell's tipping point ........ 34 Figure 4.3. Rogers adoption categories model ..........................................................37 Figure 5.1. The research ''onion'' ...............................................................................38 Figure 5.2. Research triangulation model .................................................................. 43 Figure 6.1. Rogers' innovativeness degree................................................................79

INDEX OF TABLES Table 5.1 Research objectives and questions ..........................................................40 Table 5.2 Overview of secondary research ...............................................................45 Table 5.3 Multi brand Local retailers in Portugal ........................................................46 Table 5.4 Local retailers interviews and sample questions ........................................ 46 Table 5.5 Interviewed expert/ fashion bloggers .........................................................48 Table 5.6 Expert interviews topics and sample questions ......................................... 48 Table 5.7 Consumer individual interview topics and sample questions .....................49 Table 5.8 Consumer focus group topics and projection techniques sample questions ................................................................................................................................... 50 Table 5.9 Adopter categories and attributes ..............................................................51

Table 5.10 Adopter categories and attributes ............................................................52 Table 5.11 Methodology chapter overview ...............................................................56 Table 6.1 Retailer interviews key comments on the significance of local fashion retail and the importance of fashion consumers ................................................................. 59 Table 6.2 Local retailers key opinions regarding their target consumer ....................60 Table 6.3 Local retailersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion trend inspiration sources ....................................... 56 Table 6.4 Local retailers brand offer .......................................................................... 56 Table 6.5 Opportunities and challenges of marketing to each generation. ................63 Table 6.6 Fashion consumption differences between each generation .....................64 Table 6.7 key comments from each generation regarding to fashion importance and purchase frequency ................................................................................................... 65 Table 6.8 Generation X attitudes towards shopping alone, with friends or family. ................................................................................................................................... 66 Table 6.9 Generation Y attitudes towards shopping alone, with friends or family. ... 66 Table 6.10 Most often purchased brands and most desired brands. ........................67 Table 6.11 Fashion consumption differences between each generation ...................68 Table 6.12 most frequent adjectives attributed by generation X and Y to local retailer brands ........................................................................................................................69 Table 6.13 comments from participants of each generation regarding to how brands capture their attention ................................................................................................................................... 70 Table 6.14 comments from participants from each generation towards local retailers' visuals ........................................................................................................................70 Table 6.15 Importance of fashion brands to each generation .................................... 71 Table 6.16 response comparison between expert and consumer in depth interviews ................................................................................................................................... 72 Table 6.17 most considerable influences on generation X and Y fashion purchases ................................................................................................................................... 73 Table 6.18 Response comparison within participants of generation X ......................74 Table 6.19 Response comparison within participants from generation X when different methods were employed. ............................................................................74 Table 6.20 main inspiration sources according to generation Y respondents ...........74 Table 6.21 Fashion inspiration sources for each generation ..................................... 75 Table 6.22 choice criteria when shopping for fashion. ..............................................75 Table 6.23 key comments of generation X and Y interest in fashion .........................76 ................................................................................................................................... 76 Table 6.24 key comments on fashion trends perception. ......................................... 77

Table 6.25 key comments on fashion forwardness perception. ................................78 Table 6.26 Rogers’ adopter categories applied to generation X consumer sample .. 78 Table 6.27 Rogers’ adopter categories applied to generation Y consumer sample ..79 Table 6.28 Key influencers on trend adoption behaviour for each generation ...........81 Table 6.29 Personal values of each generation .........................................................81 Table 6.30 Comparison of answers from the same respondents in different methods used ...........................................................................................................................83 Table 6.31 Comparison of answers from the same respondents in different methods used ...........................................................................................................................84 Table 6.32 Answers from the only two participants from generation X ......................85 Table 6.33 Answers from the only two participants from generation Y ......................86 Table 6.34 Each generation opinion leader perception and given examples ............86 Table 6.35 Responses of generation X towards images of celebrities shopping ....... 87 Table 6.36 Responses from projection techniques with celebrities. .........................88 Table 6.37 Each generation celebrity fashion icons. ................................................88 Table 6.38 Expert key comments on celebrities in Portugal ...................................... 89 Table 6.39 key comments of fashion bloggers regarding the impact of celebrities in purchase. ..................................................................................................................90 Table 6.40 Key findings of objective four ................................................................... 91 Table 6.41 Experts’ insightful comments on portuguese fashion consumer’s motivations and influences .........................................................................................92 Table 6.42 Main findings on trend adoption behaviour and how it defines each generation in terms of their openness to fashion trends. .......................................... 94

Acknowledgments My first word of appreciation goes to my supervisor Bethan Alexander, to whom I gratefully acknowledge all the support and guidance throughout my dissertation path. I am especially appreciative of all the advice, motivational words and assistance given while I was working outside UK. I would also like to thank all the individuals taking part in the primary research of the study; you have given me valuable insights and this thesis would not have been possible without you. Lastly, I would like to thank my family and friends for their unconditional support and motivation through the writing of this thesis. I especially owe a big thanks to my parents and my amazing fiancĂŠe for their support in this journey.

Declaration I Joana Garcez declare that this project has not, either in whole or part, been submitted as an exercise for a degree at the University of the Arts or any other university. I declare that this dissertation and the work presented in it are entirely my own except where duly acknowledged. The content of this project is the result of my own work which has been carried out since the official commencement date of the approved dissertation proposal; and, any editorial work, paid or unpaid, carried out by a third party is acknowledged.

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Abstract This theoretical dissertation explores how fashion trends are adopted within female fashion consumers from generation X and Y in Portugal. Culturally speaking, Portuguese consumers belong to a collectivist society, which reflects on their purchase behaviour and, therefore, on the way they perceive fashion trends. This research seeks to understand whether there is a relationship between cultural and generational backgrounds and trend adoption behaviour. Particular focus is given to local retailers in Portugal and their efforts on meeting the latest fashion trends. Currently, large International fashion retailers (e.g. Inditex group) are taking the lead of the fashion retail market in Portugal while local retailers have been around for more than 30 years; however, there has been an increased attention on local fashion retailers recently due to the increasing popularity of street shopping in the main cities of Portugal (Lisbon and Porto). In order to fully understand how trends are adopted in each generation a qualitative strategy using a deductive approach was utilised. To categorize each generation sample according to their innovativeness/ openness to fashion was meaningful for this research. Through the literature review as well as gathering insights from fashion consumers from generation X and Y, in depth interviews and focus groups using projection techniques were conducted and provided further knowledge regarding fashion trend perception and purchase behaviour. Two qualitative in depth interviews with Portuguese local retailers were conducted concerning to address how they meet fashion trends and their consumer targets. Moreover, key influences on fashion purchase behaviour were identified and explored through expert interviews assembling all the key drivers of fashion purchase and adoption behaviour. Finally, cultural background influence was also connected with trend adoption behaviour, which informed the objectives of this research. The research findings revealed that generation X consumers adhere more easily to fashion trends than younger consumer generation. These results, however, are strongly linked with purchase power, which affects their fashion trends decisions and purchase behaviour. Fashion purchase influences analysed in this paper reflected that reference groups (i.e. family and friends) are a primary influence, whereas media and brands are perceived as subsequential influences on generation X and Y trend purchase and adoption behaviour.

CHAPTER I - INTRODUCTION 1.1 Research context and rationale Given the fact that the Textile and Apparel industry is a growing sector in Portugal, it is also one of the most important industries within the economic context of the country. This industry is associated with approximately 5000 Portuguese retailers within the Textile and Clothing market. In 2010, the sector represented 5829 M euros in business volume and 138 jobs (ATP, 2013). In contrast, the sector decreased its business volume and number of jobs to 5774 M euros and 127, respectively in 2012. Meanwhile, other international fashion retailers such as H&M continue to grow and consolidate in Portugal (Euromonitor, 2012b), which demonstrates that, despite the current economic recession, the consumption of apparel is active in this country (Euromonitor, 2012c). With this, it is fair to argue whether local fashion retailer companies are, in fact, meeting consumer expectations regarding fashion trends or if it is an issue related with consumer brand preferences. In one hand, it is relevant to understand the consumer choices regarding brand preferences but on the other hand, it is of extreme importance for this study to fully explore several factors, such as cultural background, values, attitudes and purchase motivations inherent to fashion consumers (Blackwell, et al., 2006; Dias, 2003). Furthermore, generational backgrounds reveal to be an important aspect taken into account when targeting fashion to different generation consumers (Leung et al., 2002; Blackwell, et al., 2006). The dissertation will intend to explore the process of adopting and spreading fashion trends within this context, namely generational backgrounds. According to Dias (2003) and Leung et al (2002) Generation X (also known as ‘’Baby busters’’) refers to the population born between 1960 and 1980 and Generation Y (also known as ‘’Millennials’’) refers to the population born between 1980 and 2002. For the purposes of this research, this study will be carried in Portugal and focused on women from Generation X and Y in order to provide useful insights regarding each generation perception of fashion forwardness and trends. Moreover, fashion purchase influences will be explored in order to gain knowledge on what drives both generations when adopting a fashion trend. Although there has been studies conducted in Portugal regarding fashion consumer segmentation and profiling (Cardoso, et al., 2010) the studies reviewed so far, however, suffer from the fact that

there is limited research correlating generational backgrounds with trend diffusion and adoption by consumers in European countries, specifically in Portugal. This study will aim to fill this existent knowledge gap from both an academic and industry perspective.

1.2 Theoretical perspectives Over the past decades there has been an increasing interest in consumer behaviour towards fashion. The relationship between fashion consumers and buying behaviour has been widely studied (Jackson et al, 2009; Sproles et al, 1994), particularly in terms of fashion trends and how these are adopted. Consequently, it is fundamental to understand the consumer as an individual in order to predict if he or she will make the decision to adopt, purchase and wear a new style (Shocker et al, 1991). There is, however, Rogers’ (2003) ‘’Diffusion of innovations’’ model, which has been found to be suitable for this approach when the aim is to understand how new trends are diffused. This model has been developed by Everett Rogers (1976) and characterizes consumers within adopter categories (i.e. innovators, early adopters, early majority, late majority, laggards).

Other relevant studies regarding the diffusion of new trends within fashion consumer groups and consumer behaviour towards fashion trends (Lee, et al., 2013; Evans, 1989) have highlighted the relevancy of studying how new trends spread through consumers within the fashion market. Considering that there are existent frameworks concerning this process while explaining the intercommunication between the adopters and influencers (Evans, 1989; Law, et al., 2004; Kim, et al., 2007, Rogers, et al., 1962) it is significant to add that influencers (e.g. opinion leaders) play a crucial role on influencing trend followers, whether they are early majority or laggards (Blackwell, et al., 2006). As mentioned previously, it is necessary to recognize the consumer as an individual (Solomon, 2013). Therefore, it is essential that fashion brand retailers research the cultural and social backgrounds of their target consumers to, therefore, gain better knowledge of social and personal values affecting consumer purchase motivations and behaviour (Blackwell et al, 2006). Moreover, several studies regarding this field of consumer profiling and purchase motivations have been conducted (Cardoso, et al., 2010; Watchravesringkan et al., 2010) and applicable models such as Hofstede ‘’National culture dimensions’’ model have been included into these studies. The Hofstede model (Hofstede et al, 2011) analyses cultural dimensions inserted in the

national culture of a country, such as Power Distance Index, Individualism vs. Collectivism, Masculinity vs. Femininity, Uncertainty Avoidance, Long term vs. short term orientation and Indulgence vs. Restraint. These dimensions have shown to be a pertinent tool to interpret in depth how to target consumers from different countries. Hofstedes’ cultural dimensions have been applied to Portugal (see fig.2) (Hofstede et al, 2010) and the results reveal that this country is Collectivist, which means that consumers’ self image is defined in terms of ‘’we’’ and there is a constant need to blend in social groups rather than express their individualism. Although Hofstedes’ model does not explore in depth cultural aspects such as religion and historical path of each country (Hofstede et al, 2010) it is useful because it contributes with valuable insights regarding the cultural background of Portuguese consumers.

Meanwhile, there is a large volume of published studies describing the role of generational background on influencing the consumer purchase intentions (Leung et al, 2002) also known as generational marketing (Dias, 2003). Generational marketing studies present a different approach to consumer behaviour. The approach explains that each generation evolve differently though time and this impacts each generation consumer’s life experiences affecting on their expectations and values towards purchasing (Dias, 2003). Indeed, this is of extreme relevance when exploring consumers’ perceptions towards fashion trends. The lack of studies conducted in Europe may reinforce this research gap because the majority of generational studies conducted were in Asian countries (Leung et al, 2002) and United States (Dias, 2003) and very few were conducted in Mediterranean European countries such as Portugal.

1.3 Aims and Objectives The aim of this research will be to contribute to the understanding of how fashion trends spread throughout female generation X and Y in Portugal. The following objectives have been structured in order to explore this field of research and to achieve the aim of this proposal: 1. To contextualize Portuguese fashion retail market in order to identify current retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends. 2. To understand external influences that impact consumer attitudes and purchase intentions towards fashion trends.

3. To explore each generation perception of trend as well as the meaning of being fashion forward in order to discuss how trends are diffused within both generations in Portugal. 4. To investigate to what extent and how fashion opinion leaders influence consumers from different generations. 5. To give recommendations to Portuguese retailers on using marketing strategies to effectively target consumers from different generations.

1.4 Proposed Research methodology Given the fact that this research is an exploratory study regarding motivational and behavioural aspects of the targeted consumers, it will seek for new insights, answer research questions and enhance the understanding of the particular field in study. The research design of this methodology will be built according to the ‘’Research Onion’’ (Saunders, et al 2009). A hermeneutical philosophy will be crucial to underpin the research strategy (i.e. case study). Furthermore, the approach will be deductive as a result of an existent theory and framework that will be used and adapted throughout this study in order to achieve the overall aim of the research. The literature review will regard several records, documents and reports as main source of secondary data. Since this research intends to be a theoretical exploratory study that will answer questions such as: ‘’ how fashion trends spread?’’ ‘’Why there is more early adopters in this generation than the other?’’ ‘’What is the relationship between the life path of generation Y and the attitudes this generation has towards a fashion trend? The chosen research strategies are intrinsically related with the ability of answering these questions in an explanatory and explanatory way. The research will employ qualitative multi methods to investigate generational perceptions of fashion trends and fashion forwardness. Focus group and interviews were chosen as the most suitable for this research because both methods generate non-numerical data providing qualitative answers for the research questions and objectives. After applying this methods and collect data from primary research it will be important to triangulate data from three different perspectives (Portuguese local retailers, fashion consumers and industry experts) to evaluate the reliability and validity of data before in order to acquire consistent, valid and unbiased findings.

1.5 CHAPTER OUTLINE Chapter 1 - Introduction Introduces the relevance of the main topic and identify the gap in the current literature that will be explored. This chapter presents the structure of the dissertation as well as the aims, objectives, rationale and a brief outline on how these will be achieved.

Chapter 2, 3 and 4 - Literature review This chapter is divided in three sections. The first section ‘’The Fashion Retail market and Local retailers’’ provides an overview of the main aspects of the fashion retail market in Portugal in particular on the local retailer brand segment. The next section provides an overview of generational studies, external and internal influences on consumer purchase behaviour and trend diffusion theories, followed by a presentation of the applied models of consumer purchase and adoption behaviour (Hofstede et al, 2010; Rogers, 2003).

Chapter 5 - Methodology Identify and explains the research philosophy and the methods used. A multi method qualitative approach, employing case study strategy based on consumer focus groups and interviews with experts, retailers and consumers is presented.

Chapter 6 - Findings and Discussion This chapter presents the findings and discussion of case study based on content analysis of the in depth interviews and focus groups.

Chapter 7 - Conclusion and Recommendations This chapter presents the final conclusions from the study and the contributions of this research to academic and management fields, Limitations and recommendations for future research are presented.

CHAPTER II - THE PORTUGUESE FASHION RETAIL MARKET AND LOCAL RETAILERS 2.1 Overview of the current fashion market According to the most reports (www.atp.pt, 2013; AICEP, 2011; Mintel 2012; Euromonitor, 2013a) in 2012 the value of the apparel retail market in Portugal was 1.86 billion (excluding VAT). A negative growth in retail sales from 2011 to 2012 is also reported (1.96€ to 1.86€ billion) due to the decrease of Portuguese consumers’ purchase power resulting in sales decline within fashion retail sector (Euromonitor, 2013b). The same report states that the overall fashion retail market represents 7% of all retail industry in Portugal. This result took into account all large international fashion retailer chains and brands within high street and mid market segment and domestic fashion retailers operating in the country.

Large international fashion retailer chains (49,4%)

e.g. Inditex, Cortefiel

Domestic fashion specialized retailers (50,6%)

Mono brand retailer chains (7.8%)

Multi brand local retailers (42.8%)

Fig. 2.1 Fashion retail market structure in Portugal – a macro overview (Source: Author’s own)

Clothing retailers in Portugal are either privately owned or foreign controlled (Mintel, 2012). The fashion retail structure within the country is seen as highly fragmented (AICEP, 2011). In agreement with the data released by the textile and clothing association of Portugal (atp.pt, 2012) and according to figure 1.5 the textile and fashion retail sector is comprised by the following formats: large international clothing retailer chains (such as Inditex group, H&M, C&A and Cortefiel) mostly of foreign origin (mainly Spanish and French), a large proportion of domestic retailers (50,6%) that include a first subsector of specialized mono brand retailer chains (such as Ana Sousa, Lanidor, Saccor Brothers, Tiffosi, Salsa Jeans and Modalfa), these are mainly manufacturers; in fact, vertical integration is a common feature of the clothing trade

in Portugal (atp.pt, 2012). Mono brand retailer chain account for 7,8% of the total market shares within fashion retailing in Portugal, whereas multi brand local retailers account for 42,8% which is almost as large as the share of international fashion retailer chains (49,4%).

2.2 Local retailer brands – the emergence of the format, the influence on consumer purchase behaviour in Portugal. The term independent retailer in the Portuguese retail market applies to all local multi brand retailers operating in the country (Agis, 2012). According to Lourenço (2005), before the eighties most of clothing retailers were industry based. Through the mid eighties (please refer to timeline in figure 1.2), these retailers developed into multi brand local or independent retailers investing in their own brands. Consequently, there was a growth of this retailer format in the main cities of Portugal, Lisbon and Porto. Due to the fact that these retailers were located in the main commercial streets of these cities, they became popular and contributed to the culture of street shopping in the eighties decade (Agis, et al 2010). Although this was a successful format during the eighties it is important to mention that local retailers were influential in terms of the change of consumer purchase motivations and patterns (Almeida et al, 2011). However, several authors (Almeida et al, 2011; Agis, 2012; Bessa and Vaz, 2007) argue whether local retailers were the instigators of the fashion retail market growth in Portugal. Furthermore, a study from Lourenço (2005) discusses that these retailers were responsible to introduce a wide variety of new fashion brands, in particular international brands, into the fashion retail market.

Regarding fashion purchase motivations, Bessa and Vaz (2007) consider that fashion purchase in Portugal is mostly brand led (i.e. international brands). However, Almeida et al (2011) argues that this fact can be an underlying reason for fashion Portuguese consumers to prefer mainly international brands rather than local brands.

First multi brand local retailer, this format becomes popular in Portugal

Large retailers are leaders in the fashion retail market and local retailers are decreasing in popularity

Emergence of first shopping centers in Portugal

90’s

Mid 80’s

Emergence of local fashion mono brand retailer chains

Mid 90’s

Year 2000

Mid 00’s

Success of shopping center format, which led to a decrease of demand for local retailers

Currently

Local retailer are slowly growing and re emerging

Figure 2.2. Timeline of local fashion retailers (Author’s own based on theory from Agis, et al 2010; Almeida et al, 2011; Agis, 2012)

In order to understand how local multi brand retailers evolved through this period it is important to assess how other formats emerged and developed in the fashion retail market. Therefore, a new generation of local mono brand retailer chains emerged during the nineties decade (please refer to figure 1.2). According to Agis (2012), some of these mono brand chains became unsuccessful projects (e.g. Kispo) but others, however, invested in a strong rebranding strategy and specialized in retail. Portuguese fashion brand retailers benefited from this period (Almeida et al, 2011). Examples include mid market fashion brands, such as Lanidor, Salsa, Throttleman, Decenio, Ana Sousa, and Quebramar among others. During the mid nineties, the success of this new brand generation led to the launch of bigger retailer formats, such as shopping centres in Portugal. The entrance of this format in the market was, indeed, successful (Agis, 2012). Moreover, local retailers were no longer the first choice to purchase fashion and while there are authors (Bessa and Vaz, 2007; Agis et al, 2010) arguing that these retailers disappeared and some of them were relocated to shopping centres, there was a significant amount of them that remained open on that period (Lourenço, 2005).

Contrary to most European cities, local retailers in Portugal have been struggling to affirm in the fashion retail market (Agis, 2012). Indeed, shopping centres are the leading format in Portugal (Almeida et al, 2011). Recently, however, there has been an increased interest on investing in street commerce. The reasons are twofold. First, street commerce popularity is returning and, according to Agis (2012), consumers are becoming more interested in shopping in retailers located in the downtown area due to leisure purposes. Second, there are expectations in the retail market on developing the main streets of Lisbon and Porto (Publico.pt, 2013; Expresso.sapo.pt, 2013b).

2.2.1 The local retailer segment and its future According to a report released by Cushman and Wakefield (2008) there is evidence that this retailer format is re-emerging and slowly growing in Lisbon and Porto. This is particularly a consequence of the increase of tourist demand rather than local demand and consumption, which is limited (Greensavers.sapo.pt, 2011). According to Publico.pt (2013) an increase of 8% was experienced from 2009 to 2010 in terms of tourist visits to Portugal. Currently in Lisbon, local retailer brands are highly concentrated in the downtown area, which is also a tourist area. Examples of streets include Avenida da Liberdade, Rua dos Fanqueiros and Rua Garrett. In Porto Rua de Santa Catarina and Rua Sรก da Bandeira are two popular streets for local retailers. Consequently, the city council is currently promoting local retailers located in the downtown area in order to divulge the idea of shopping in these stores and increase the affluence of people in these areas (Expresso.sapo.pt, 2013a; Publico.pt, 2013). Furthermore, there is evidence of an increase of the number of store openings between

2008

and

2011

both

cities

reported

local

sources

(Greensavers.sapo.pt, 2011). It has, however, been suggested that local retailers may experience a forthcoming period of growth and expansion within the main commercial streets as it was 20 years ago (Publico.pt, 2013) and Bessa and Vaz (2007) report on future. In order to explore further this retail format and whether Portuguese consumers shop in these retailers for fashion trend purposes it is necessary to consider examples of local retailers in this chapter.

The first local retailer brand in study is Glossy (please refer to Appendix 16 for store interior visuals), which is a small local fashion retailer store located in central Lisbon. The store sells several international brands and one local fashion brand named

Saocco. Examples of international brands include Hoss Intropia, Twin Set, Colcci and Denny Rose. This retailer offers high street brands and targets mainly a younger audience. Glossy is a fashion retail store that can be characterized as a small business in which the store owner has a very familiar and close relationship with all customers. The retailer does not engage with any social network platform, instead communication is achieved through word of mouth (WOM). The second local retailer is The Trend Closet Hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s store (please refer to Appendix 17 for store interior visuals), which is also located in Lisbon. This retailer is a small retail business that is located near the main tourist area in Lisbon, which attracts different audiences (local consumers and tourists). The international brand offer includes Just Female, Wrangler, Iron fist and Buffalo. These brands are positioned in the high street market and target a younger fashion consumer. This local retailer engages with social network (please refer to Appendix 1, 2 and 3) and has an online store in which all the mentioned brands are available and sold (please refer to Appendix 4 and 5). Â

CHAPTER

III

CONSUMER

MOTIVATION

AND

PURCHASE

INTENTIONS 3.1 Consumer behaviour studies Several authors (Armstrong, et al 2009, pp. 148; Blackwell et al 2006 pp. 21; Solomon, 2011) have discussed this area of study. Consumer behaviour can be briefly described by Kotler (1997) as the study of individuals, groups or organizations as well as the psychological and emotional processes occurring while they select, obtain, consume, dispose products and services in order to satisfy needs and wants. There is a widespread recognition that consumer behaviour is the key to implement a successful segmentation of markets (Shiffman and Kanuk, 2000; Azevedo et al, 2008). As depicted in figure 3.1, external and internal influences play an important role on shaping consumer purchase behaviour in fashion (Evans, 1989)

External influences

Internal influences

Culture Reference groups (family, friends and opinion leaders) Brands and media

Life stage Age (e.g. generation) Attitudes Motivations and purchase intentions

Identity and self-concept

Consumer behaviour Fig. 3.1 – Internal and external influences on consumer behaviour (Source: Adapted from Kotler (1997) and Blackwell et al (2006)

Azevedo et al (2008) analyses external influences, such as culture, as the driving force of all motivations and attitudes underlying the purchasing process. In the same vein, Nayeem (2012) argues that culture is a strong feature regulating human behaviour. However, a study by Reed et al (2012) emphasizes internal consumer influences by referring that the main influencer of behaviour is identity, which can be a consequence of culture. They also argue that adoption of behaviours are linked to each individual’s own identity, which is comprised by multiple identities that form the

self-concept. However, the author offers no explanation for the external influences on consumer behaviour. For example, Azevedo et al (2008), points out that while internal influences, such as self-concept, provide a clearer sense of identification within the society the individual is inserted in, the social process takes effect through external influences. Regarding to fashion adoption and diffusion, it is important to address these influences in order to analyse how they affect different generation consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion choices.

3.2 Generational studies linked to fashion purchase Due to the lack of current studies specifically focusing on generational backgrounds and its impact on consumers fashion purchase in Portugal (i.e. adoption and spreading fashion trends), this section relies on some of the most significant theories relating explicitly to generational study fields. So far, however, little attention has been paid to the relationship between fashion consumers from different generational backgrounds and the higher or lower ability to adopt a fashion trend. Most studies regarding generational backgrounds have only been carried out in a restricted number of areas (USA, Hong Kong, Taiwan, UK). Although there has been studies conducted in Portugal regarding fashion consumer segmentation and profiling (Cardoso et al, 2010; Azevedo et al, 2008) the majority of the studies suffer from the fact that there is very limited research concerning generational impact on purchase behaviour, specifically in Portugal. Cardoso et al (2010) study has segmented Portuguese young fashion consumers by their fashion innovativeness, involvement, self-expression and impulsiveness in terms of fashion consumption behaviour. This study, however, can be applicable to this research because it takes into account the Portuguese cultural context and it provides further knowledge of young fashion consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; profiles in Portugal and their purchase behaviour. Although other studies have considered the immediate influence of an individualsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion attitude on fashion consumption behaviour (Park and Burns, 2005; Workman and Studak, 2006) the study from Lin and Xia (2011) have contributed with a different perspective. Contrary to most studies, this study found a relationship between cognitive age and fashion consumption, which provides useful insights for this research in terms of understanding the importance of age as an influence on consumer behaviour. Furthermore, the study also suggests that fashion attitudes and consumption behaviour are influenced by the perceived age of each individual and that reflects their brand or product choices.

According to Bergh et al (2013) Dias (2003), Leung et al (2002) and Solomon (2011) the term Generation X (also known as ‘’Baby busters’’) refers to the population born between 1960-65 and 1980-85 and Generation Y (also known as ‘’Millennials’’) refers to the population born between 1980-86 and 2002. For the purpose of this research, the main focuses are female fashion consumers from generation X and Y in Portugal. According to Azevedo et al (2008) there are gender differences between consumer buying behaviour in Portugal. The findings of this study suggest that female consumers are more impulsive buyers than male consumers who only purchase for necessity purposes. This aspect proven to be relevant for this research as impulsive buying leads to frequent purchasing, which results in a higher involvement with fashion (Kang and Park-Poaps, 2010; Goldsmith et al, 1991). In this vein, a more comprehensive study from Pentecost and Andrews (2009) explores gender and generational influences on impulsive buying on fashion expenditure revealing that purchase frequency is higher in female consumers from generation Y than any other generation segment and gender. In the past years, several marketers have increased their focus on subcultural segments (Blackwell et al, 2006; Solomon, 2011; Dias, 2003; Cardoso et al, 2010). Solomon (2011) refers to subcultural segments as marketing segments categorized by age, ethnicity, race, and religion. These subcultural segments share the same beliefs and common experiences that separate them from others. There has been an increasing amount of literature on marketing communication to different age segments, also known as age cohorts (Pentecost and Andrews, 2009; Phau and Lo, 2004; Lin and Xia, 2011; Borland and Akram, 2007; Harradine and Ross, 2007; Lee and Workman, 2013; Bakewell and Mitchell 2003; Rothwell, 2006). Phau and Lo (2004) discuss the importance of adequate communication to each age cohort. It is essential to understand their life course, their symbols and own language in order to appeal to these segments (Pentecost and Andrews, 2009). However, their study only explores effective marketing strategies towards age segments. Borland and Akram’s (2007) study emphasizes how important it is in fashion communication to understand each generation’s self-perception in order to target different age segments effectively. A limitation, however, of this study could be the fact that this study is only focused on older female consumers. However, this provides further insights regarding to how women perceive their own body images and how that influences fashion purchasing choice criteria. Moreover, Lee and Workman’s (2013) research paper gathers a useful insight concerning younger segments of fashion

consumers. One of the limitations of this study is that it does not fully explore the relationship between age segments and fashion purchasing; however, it is relevant for this research because it supports the idea that fashion innovativeness is more recurrent in younger age segments, which can reflect younger generationsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion purchase behaviour. Interestingly, Harradine and Ross (2007), examined age segment perception towards branding. The research paper seeks to explore key differences in the perceptions of different generations towards branding. The study reveals that different generations have different brand awareness, and the younger the generation is the more aware they are about brands. These findings imply that generational background plays an important role in influencing consumer behaviour and purchase patterns towards brands. This study might have been far more relevant to this research if Harradine and Ross (2007) applied the same approach on fashion purchasing behaviour. Another limitation arising from this study is the fact that it explores the different perceptions between children and their parents as two different generations rather than two different generations of fashion consumers. However, relevant findings surfaced from this study. Results reveal the need for implementing marketing strategies to target different generational segments, which is an important issue discussed in this research. Out of all the generational studies, Dias (2003) study is the most relevant because she conducted a research, which studies the relationship between generational backgrounds (i.e. consumers from generation X and Y) and fashion purchasing behaviour. In this exploratory analysis, Dias (2003) implied that consumers from different generations have a different perception towards fashion brands, meaning that the choices they make on deciding a fashion brand are related with attitudes and motivations instilled in their growing path. The author refers that Generation Xâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main motivation to purchase clothes is functional. Although this conclusion seems overly generalized, there is an important aspect debated. Leung et al (2002) explains that early life experiences, growing life path and actual life stage of consumers from different generations are all aspects influencing purchase behaviour towards fashion. Therefore, if generation X consumers purchase clothes due to its utility it means that they value comfort and fit. Watchravesringkan and Hodges (2010) emphasize that this behaviour is typical of utilitarian driven consumers because it is related with the functional and practical benefit that an acquired product or service may reward. Dias (2003) and Bergh et al (2013) emphasize that the functional motivation may result

from the fact that generation X was never marketed to as children. Dias (2003) accentuates this fact by explaining that ‘’while marketers paid attention to the previous generation (baby boomers), this market (generation X) emerged, and were somewhat ignored (…) this generation, therefore, grew used to advertisements not directed to them’’. As an emergent market, Generation Y has been of interest recently (Rothwell, 2006; Bakewell and Mitchell, 2003 and Pentecost and Andrews, 2009). This generation is characterized by having a general liking for purchasing due to its significant spending power and is more susceptible to impulsive buying behaviour given the amount of free time they have for shopping (Bakewell and Mitchell, 2003). Given these facts, it is suggested that these consumers behaviour is driven by hedonic needs due to ‘’the excitement

and

self

confidence

boost

that

purchase

may

bring’’

(Watchravesringkan and Hodges, 2010). Research suggests that generation Y consumers are highly accustomed and receptive to fashion (Dias, 2003; Rothwell, 2006). However, most studies claim to identify generation Y and their behaviour towards fashion and do not compare this age segment to any other. This paper, therefore, addresses this limitation in the literature by investigating the key age segments (Generation X and Y) and their behaviour towards fashion adoption and diffusion in Portugal.

3.3 The ‘’self’’ concept and identity According to Solomon and Rabolt (2004) the self-concept incorporates the meanings of the real or actual self (how he or she is), the ideal self (how he or she would like to be – whether in a ‘’private’’ or ‘’social’’ context) and the public self (how others see him or her). There is an extended self, which includes multiple social self-levels (individual, family, community and group levels). This term refers to the positive or negative expectation that a person may have about their self. It is also associated with how a person judges or assesses his/her positive or negative attributes (Solomon, 2011). Relevant to this, is Hofstedes’ cultural dimension model (please refer to figure 3.2) that applied across many different countries in order to understand cross-cultural differences in behaviours and perceptions. Hofstede identified four independent dimensions of national culture and placed each on a scale. The four dimensions are Power distance Index, Individualism vs. collectivism, masculinity vs. femininity and

uncertainty avoidance index. For the purposes of this research, the focus will be on the Individualism-Collectivism cultural dimension (Hofstede et al, 2010). Power distance Index

Uncertainty avoidance Index

National cultural dimension

Individualism vs Collectivism

Masculinity vs femininity

Figure 3.1. Hofstede cultural dimensions model (Source: Hofstede et al, 2010)

However, these dimensions has been applied to Portugal and the results demonstrate that Portuguese consumers are Collectivists (see figure 3.3) meaning that peoples’ self image is defined in terms of ‘’we’’ and they seek to blend in social groups rather than express their own individualism

Figure 3.3. Portugal scores the lowest index on Hofstedes' Individualism dimension (Source: the Hofstede centre website, 2010)

Cassidy and Schijndel (2011) argue that a person may dress or act a certain way according to the context in which he/she is placed into. Therefore, identity is usually established through self-expression and shaped according to other people expectations (Peters, et al 2011). Reed (2012: 310), however, proposes a simple but inclusive definition of identity as being ‘’any category label in which a consumer self

associates with’’, and this category being a ‘’representation of how one looks like, thinks, feel and does’’. Products that are consistent with the individual’s self image support the formation and expression of personal identity (Nayeem, 2012). Clothing is notably known to be a valid product category in this regard (Ma et al, 2012). Borland and Akram (2007) point out that the self can also be seen as a structure, a process, a perception, and a social comparison, through self-image, self-perception and self-esteem. This is of relevance due to the concept of self-perception regarded by different consumers from different generations (Dias, 2003). Even though there aren’t many studies exploring the relationship between clothing use and self-esteem, Ma et al (2012) mentions that clothing use may act as a reflection of one’s feelings of insecurity or lower levels of self-esteem. The need to be consistent with the self is a question being raised here. Meanwhile, Cardoso et al (2010) argues that part of one’s self image is related with the symbolic meaning of clothes. The author adds that choosing a product that carries a suitable meaning (i.e. clothing) provides a way to project and improve, in part, one’s self image. Clothing brands have identities and images, and consumers seek for brands that better match their self-image (Ibid, 2010). According to Evans (1989) self-concept combines the physical and mental self and is applicable to fashion, due to the fact that garments and accessories may be worn in a physical sense either for functional or emotional reasons. The author also refers that finding the appropriate match to one’s self-image is related with the motivation of achieving an ideal self, therefore, reinforcing one’s self concept. An issue with this approach is that it fails to take generational backgrounds into account. Bergh et al (2013), however do so, arguing that consumers from an older generation may experience constraints and inconsistencies with their self concepts when purchasing clothes targeted for younger consumers, therefore, feeling closer to their ideal selves or aspirational state established by consumers’ culture. Leung et al (2002), Dias (2003), and Harradine and Ross (2007) are renowned critics of the generational studies in the centre of the consumer self-concept. They argue that consumers from different generational backgrounds carry with them different identities and self concepts due to the fact that each age group had had different life paths that resulted in different values, beliefs and subcultures they consider to be inserted in.

3.4 Life stage and product involvement The life stage of each consumer reflects his/her purchasing decisions. As individuals grow older his/her values change. Consumers from different generations, therefore different age stage, may find different products or brands appealing (Dias, 2003). Ultimately, on an older life stage consumers tend to hold to the values that their parents hold (Blackwell et al 2006). According to Cardoso et al (2010) and Leung et al (2002) the degree of product involvement (applied to fashion) has been identified as a key factor influenced by life stage. Cardoso et al (2010) refers that product involvement is an important tool to analyse consumer attitudes and behaviour because it contributes to the decision making process. The researcher also adds that high-fashion involved consumers are seen as a force of the fashion adoption process. However, Cardoso et al (2010) approach does not take into account fashion involvement levels. The findings from Leung et al (2002) include a further perspective. According to the researcher, fashion involvement level tends to vary depending on personal, product, and situational factors. However, according to Lee and Workman (2013) higher involvement levels affect directly personal factors such as self-image, physical condition, health and beauty. In consequence, these levels develop a perceived risk that may influence product or brand purchase decision. Leung et al (2002) concludes by pointing out that the more involved a consumer is in purchasing a certain product the greater is the perceived risk (i.e. physical, psychological, performance and financial risks).

3.5 Culture and cultural influences There is a widespread recognition of the relationship between consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cultural backgrounds and purchase behaviour (Ma et al, 2012; Seock et al, 2008; Nayeem, 2012, Triandis, 1995; McSweeney, 2002). Ma et al (2012) gives an overall perspective, applied to fashion, of how fashion consumers from different cultures demand different products. However, the author fails to fully define how fashion consumers adopt and perceive trends according to the cultural background they are inserted in. In a more particular perspective, Seock et al (2008) investigate fashion purchase orientation within Hispanic consumers in USA. The author mainly focuses his study on developing marketing strategies to target the areas with a large Hispanic population and does not consider cultural aspects in much detail.

Seock et al (2008) studies have been subject to considerable criticism by Nayeem (2012). The researcher investigated the influence of Hofstede’s cultural dimensions (i.e. Individualism-collectivist) on consumer purchase behaviour. Although his study does not refer to fashion purchasing, it is an impressive analysis of how held individualism-collectivism values can shape, to some extent, purchase behaviour. In particular, Nayeem (2012) refers to Individualists and collectivists as cultural groups and these cultural groups hold cultural values. These values are vehicles that carry culturally determined knowledge from one generation to another; they are a form of storing and expressing culture (Triandis, 1995). This process, consequently, results in persistent values over time that will, eventually, affect consumer behaviour (Seock, et al 2008). The mentioned cultural framework (Hofstede et al, 2011) relates to the analysis of four well-known dimensions of national culture that influence the way people live and work in the various countries across the world (Power Distance Index, Individualism vs. Collectivism, Masculinity vs. Femininity, Uncertainty Avoidance, Long term vs. short term Orientation and Indulgence vs. Restraint). These dimensions have shown to be an important tool to understand in depth how different consumers from different countries are influenced on their purchase behaviour (Waarts and Everdingen, 2006). McSweeney (2002), however, critiques Hofstede’s model. The author argues that the model generalizes a limited representation of culture and does not take into consideration important ‘’multiple, non-national influencing factors’’. However, Triandis (1995) investigates whether this model can be a generalization of a country’s culture to the point that collectivistic and individualist features could be found within any given culture at different levels. Perhaps the most serious disadvantage of this approach is that it only explores culture within a nation and does not explore in depth cultural aspects such as religion and historical path of each country, which is considered by Hofstede et al (2011). Therefore, the Hofstede’s national culture dimensions model is, indeed, considered by several authors (Nayeem, 2012; Migliore, 2011; Soares et al, 2006) as the most comprehensive and suitable model to explore cultural influences on consumers purchase behaviour. Given that, this section relies on consumer internal influences such as cultural background influence on consumer adoption behaviour, Hofstedes’ framework is taken into account to better accomplish that approach.

3.6 Reference groups Reference groups refer to any group to which an individual may or may not belong to and his/her behaviour and attitudes are influenced by (Serralvo et al 2010). According to Serralvo et al (2010), reference groups have a significant impact upon an individuals aspirations and evaluations. The typology of influence proposed by Blackwell et al (2006) refers that there are three key ways in which reference groups can influence consumers: through information given by a reference group (informational influence), by the influence of others whom an individual may or may not relate to or aspire to be (value expressive influence) and when an individual makes an effort to meet the influencing group expectations in order to obtain a reward or avoid punishment (utilitarian influence). Serralvo et al (2010) argues that in the value expressive influence type the acceptance does not depend on an imposition of the group, and it is more likely to be the individual’s own belief that by acting this way he/she appears to his peers as the individual with whom he/she keeps a consistent relationship of identification. According to Solomon and Rabolt (2009) conformity in fashion refers to ‘’a change in beliefs and actions in response to real or imaginary pressure from a group’’. Factors affecting conformity are fear of deviation, commitment, unanimity, cultural pressures and the susceptibility to interpersonal influence (Lin and Xia, 2011). These factors proven to be relevant for this research as these can reflect whether individuals adopt new fashion trends. Reference groups differ depending on the culture consumers are placed into (Serralvo et al, 2010). Phau and Lo (2004) argue that consumers from the same generation may experience the need to purchase clothes that they associate with their subcultural symbols and icons. Although this study gives contributes with a consistent explanation of reference groups as subcultural symbols it is, however, focused on exploring and profiling fashion innovators as impulsive buyers rather than investigate fashion innovators as subcultural symbols and icons that affect consumer purchase behaviour. Nonetheless, few researchers have been able to study the relationship between culture, generational background and reference groups (Nayeem, 2012). According to Yang and Lee (2007) the term reference group consists of not only the groups that an individual has a frequent contact with (such as family members, friends, classmates, etc.) but also includes the groups that an individual does not have a membership in or direct contact with (e.g. people in a certain social level). The evidence sustained by Hofstede’s model regarding national culture dimensions

in Portugal (i.e. collectivist country), reveal that Portuguese consumers value the virtues of group membership. In a similar vein, Lee and Workman (2013) point out that there is a strong relationship between consumers and their primary reference group (e.g. family and friends). This aspect proven to be relevant to explore collectivist consumer purchase behaviour due to the fact that these are likely to be influenced by primary reference groups rather than secondary groups (e.g. celebrities, vendor-to-client relationship) (Nayeem, 2012; Luna and Gupta, 2001). Altogether, most studies regarding reference groups have only focused on culture or generational backgrounds in an isolated form and did not study the relationship between these factors on fashion purchase consumption.

3.6.1 Opinion Leaders According to Evans (1989) every social group has an opinion leader.

Opinion

leaders are usually ordinary consumers within their group being characterized as socially active, appearance conscious and self centred (Cardoso et al, 2010). These leaders can be celebrities, bloggers, or friends and even be present within the family circle (Forbes, 2013). In the fashion context, opinion leaders are usually considered to be fashion innovators being often described as less cost conscious, being highly interested in fashion and brand conscious (Phau and Lo, 2004). On the other end of the fashion innovativeness spectrum, Ma et al (2012) argues that there are consumers profiled as having little or no interest in fashion demonstrating, therefore, lack of opinion leadership and low brand consciousness. However, fashion opinion leaders may or may not have a strong influence on consumers (Cho and Workman, 2011). More specifically, consumers from different generations may consider the same opinion leaders, regarding to fashion (Goldsmith and Clark, 2008; Dias, 2003). It is, therefore, important for fashion retailers to select appropriately which opinion leader that they want to associate with their brand in order to effectively target consumers from different generations (Lazarevic, 2012). Opinion leaders are usually identified as knowledgeable people whom consumers may be directly influenced on a pre purchase stage (Goldsmith and Clark, 2008). In the Portuguese fashion context, examples of opinion leaders include street fashion and lifestyle bloggers such as Carolina Flores from Last Minute Dreams blog, Joana Duarte from the blog Style and Expect and Joana Peixoto from Vision of a dreamer blog. According to Kim et al (2007) fashion bloggers are usually taken seriously due to their knowledge and experience in the subject. Due to this, they often influence

consumer beliefs affecting, therefore, their purchase attitudes and behaviours (McQuarrie et al, 2013). One question that needs to be asked, however, is whether opinion leaders have a significant impact on collectivist consumers or not. Nayeem (2012) argues that consumers from collectivist societies generally value status, prestige and family or ingroup benefits. As a result, they are likely to first consult with their primary reference group and consider their advice or opinion before collecting information. Given the fact that opinion leaders may be perceived in different levels (i.e. celebrities, friends and family) (Rafferty, 2011) the inner circle of fashion consumers may include opinion leaders that are their own friends or family members. This is relevant to this research because it correlates Hofstedeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s theoretical model with opinion leadership influence in Portugal.

3.7 Media and Brands In recent years, there has been an increasing interest on the impact media has on consumers (McQuarrie et al, 2003). Everyday, consumers are exposed to immense amounts of media. It is estimated that over 500 million people are interacting with social media (Facebook, Twitter) on a day basis (Forbes, 2013). These media tools are powerful sources of information, which enable consumers to evaluate, make recommendations, and even decide on future purchases (Kulmala et al 2013). According to local news source (Expresso, 2013c) fashion blogs in Portugal are becoming more popular and profitable than ever. The previously mentioned fashion bloggers are just some successful examples. McQuarrie et al (2003) argues that bloggers achieve, nowadays, an audience that historically was only available to institutionally located professionals. The author also points out that the high visibility of fashion brands through media is one of the major advantages of this powerful tool. According to Yang et al (2007) high product visibility also increases reference group influence. This means that the rapid dissemination of ideas and opinions has a strong influence on peoplesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beliefs and behaviour. In the fashion context, the influence of social media and, specifically, fashion blogs has been compared to word of mouth (WOM) (Lee et al, 2013). In fact, both tools occur in similar ways (McQuarrie et al, 2003). This is due to the fact that blogs convey informal information about fashion, therefore, being considered a powerful behaviour and purchase influencer on fashion consumer groups, regardless of being from generation X or Y

(Leung et al, 2002). Yan et al (2007) also emphasizes the role of celebrities, entertainers, and sports figures on creating awareness through brand endorsements, testimonials given in commercials. In Portugal, celebrity endorsement through fashion brands is a very common feature (please refer to Appendix 6). Moreover, this reference group plays an important role in ‘’communicating effectively to consumers who admire them or aspire to be like them’’ (Blackwell et al, 2006). Fashion retailer brands communicate their products targeting them to specific consumer segments (Waarts and Everdingen, 2006). However, fashion brands can be considered as reference groups because they build emotional relationship with their target consumers and, therefore, engage with them while creating brand communities (Harradine and Ross, 2007). Brand communities refer to communities in which consumers relate to others sharing the same interest or usage of a product (Leung et al, 2002). Previous studies have reported the relationship between brands, branding and generational perception (Harradine, et al 2006). Although it has been reported that most consumers from generation Y are not loyal to any brand, branding may be a strong external influence on generation Y (Cassidy and Schijndel, 2011). Certainly, these findings from Cassidy and Schijndel (2011) can present limitations such as the fact that they are generalizing branding as a powerful influence on all individuals from generation Y but the outcome of this study supports the idea of how important is to effectively communicate to different age segments. Furthermore, the relationship between brands and generations (Lazarevic, 2012; Borland and Akram, 2007; Lin and Xia, 2011; Dias, 2003) have indicated the importance of engaging appropriate branding to each generation in order to increase brand loyalty. According to Evans (1989) brand image usage in fashion is related to the fact that brand image allow fashion products to communicate a message. This message communication can be employed through social influences such as reference groups, opinion leaders, media and brands. Contributing, therefore, to the consumer socialisation system (Neeley, 2005). Nevertheless, the present findings appear to be consistent with that of Nayeem (2012). The author supports the idea that mass media and brands have been found to be the dominant information source for the younger age groups (i.e. generation Y). However, Nayeem’s (2012) study does not differentiate each generation relationship with brands and media. Instead, the author explores consumer purchase behaviour and media and brands influence affected by cultural environment, which provides further insights for this section.

Several authors (Evans, 1989; Lee and Workman, 2013) suggest that media contributes to the process of adopting a new trend. Through gathered information and external social influences Portuguese fashion consumers might decide whether they are adopting a new fashion trend or not. This research offers a sociological explanation of this process that centres on fashion adoption and diffusion theories that may be applied into this study.

CHAPTER IV - THEORIES ON TREND DIFFUSION 4.1 Definitions of trend, fashion forward, style and fashion The adoption process relates to the decision making process, which an individual experiences when deciding whether to adopt a new style or fashion (Troxell and Judelle, 1971). Style and fashion are highly associated (MacGillivray and Hann, 2009). A particular style has one or more specific features that distinguish it from other styles of the same category (e.g. vintage style) while fashion is seen as the prevailing style at any given point in time. Spolter and Thakkar (2011) refer to the diffusion process as a new idea or innovation being introduced by innovators and spread to members within the social system. In this research context, fashion can be recognized as an innovation (Ma et al, 2012) and trend as a general direction or movement in which its acceptance is a continuous process (Abrahamson, 1991). A trend can be also known as something that is in fashion (Spolter and Thakkar, 2011). The terms trend and fashion forwardness are highly associated. A fashion consumer may have the tendency to adopt or not a certain trend and, therefore, he/she is considered to be fashion forward (Sproles and Burns; 1994).

4.2 Theories on trend diffusion There are several possible social explanations for fashion trend adoption and diffusion (MacGillivray and Hann, 2009; Rogers, 2003; Troxell and Judelle, 1971; Ma et al 2012; Abrahamson, 1991; Spolter and Thakkar, 2011; Sproles and Burns 1994). According to Oren and Schwartz (1988) the fashion trend adoption is a complex process for consumers and it is notably influenced by identity and self-concept. However, in order to gain a better understanding of how the adoption behaviour process occurs it is important to identify and explore different diffusion models. Theoretical perspectives such as trickle up and trickle down effect have been widely discussed (MacGillivray and Hann, 2009; Abrahamson, 1991). Sproles and Burns (1994) refer to them as classic models of diffusion that can be applied to fashion. However, MacGillivray and Hann (2009) give a further meaning to these theoretical perspectives by referring that they occur depending on the adoption direction flow, which can move from lower to higher social classes or vice versa. However, the trickle across theory occurs when the diffusion flow emerge from subcultures in urban areas (Ibid, 2009) According to the author, these subcultures are known as seed beads for several types of new trends (e.g. fashion, art, music, etc.). Some of

the underlying reasons instigating the trickle up, down and across process are, amongst others, social contagion and differentiation (Abrahamson, 1991). According to Goldsmith et al (1991) within the process of adoption or diffusion of fashion trends, the innovator individual is usually considered to be a fashion innovator. The difference between fashion innovators and fashion opinion leaders lies in the fact that fashion opinion leaders regulate an innovative style by influencing their social groups while fashion innovators are the very first to adopt and expose a new style or fashion. Both agents contribute actively in the diffusion and adoption process of fashion trends (Ko et al, 2007), which supports Rogers (2003) theory on how fashion products progress from their introduction stage to their eventual obsolescence. Other agents pointed by this author, include innovative consumers, which are the ones combining both roles of the innovator and opinion leader. Owing to this, Rogers (2003) presented his ‘’diffusion of innovations’’ model in 1976 in which he categorizes adopters according to their innovativeness (i.e. innovators, early adopters, early majority, late majority, and laggards). All these adopter categories are instrumental in the diffusion of a new fashion trend (Evans, 1989; Lee et al, 2013; MacGillivray and Hann, 2009). Furthermore, there are studies (Redmond, 2002; Rahimi et al, 2009; Blackburn, 2011) testing the model in order to understand how adoption of innovations occurs in other fields of research such as Biology, Medicine and Technology. However, a different approach to this model is presented in order to explore the stage in which consumers are highly adopting new trends and to gain further insights on consumer adoption behaviour. Gladwell (2000) refers to the Tipping point as the viral or epidemic state of adopting a new trend in all consumers located between early majority and late majority categories.

Fig. 4.1 Diffusion of innovations model curve and Gladwell’s tipping point adapted concept. Source: (Rogers, 2003; Gladwell, 2000)

Rogers (2003) diffusion model is an appropriate and relevant sociological model for this research. This model can be useful to provide a categorization of female fashion consumers from generation X and Y in Portugal in order to gain further knowledge on how each generation adopts fashion trends.

4.3 Literature review summary The intention of this chapter lies in a deeper understanding of the complex process leading in fashion purchasing, in particular, fashion trend adoption and diffusion. The literature review primarily addresses objectives one, two, three and four. Objective one is partially addressed through the first chapter of the fashion retail market in Portugal. Through the second chapter, specific external influences on consumer behaviour (self concept, life stage, reference groups, opinion leaders, brands, and media) are explored in order to, firstly, understand what impact these have on consumer attitudes and purchase intentions, and secondly, to correlate with generational and cultural background studies. This section seeks to partly fulfil objective two, three and four. In the third chapter of the literature review, trend diffusion theories are discussed through different researcher perspectives. This section attempts to gain a better understanding of the process of trend adoption and diffusion whilst supporting the research objectives and, therefore, informing the research gap. The chosen models to test are that proposed by Hofstede et al (2010) and Rogers (2003, pp). Both models are used as the basis to the discussion of fashion consumer trend adoption behaviour.

4.3.1 The research models Power distance Index

Uncertainty avoidance Index

National cultural dimension

Individualism vs Collectivism

Masculinity vs femininity

Figure 4.2. Hofstede's cultural dimensions model (Source: Hofstede et al, 2010)

As discussed in section 3.3 Hofstede’s cultural dimensions model is used as a foundation for this research because it examines behaviours and perceptions of consumers from different cultural backgrounds. Given that, Portuguese consumers are the main focus of this research, Hofstede’s Individualism-Collectivism dimension serves as an appropriate dimension to explore the way these consumers regard their

self-identity. By exploring this aspect, this model is informing the third and fifth research objectives and, through literature review, builds Portuguese fashion consumer profiles that will be put into analysis through primary research stage.

Figure 4.3. Rogers adoption categories model (Source: Adapted from Rogers, 2003)

In this research, Rogers diffusion and adoption model (figure 4.3) will be tested through the use of focus groups and interviews. It is important due to its effective ability to categorize fashion consumers according to their self-perception concerning trend adoption ability. Rogers’ model serves as an adoption categorization tool that will be applicable to each consumer from different generations, whilst informing the third and fourth research objectives of this study. Finally, this model will also address the fifth research objective of this study, concerning the relationship between generational and cultural backgrounds and fashion trend adoption, therefore, contributing to fulfil the research gap. Hofstedes’ national culture dimensions and Rogers ‘’diffusion of innovations’’ model will be both tested in order to inform the research design of this study. Hofstedes’ Collectivism-Individualism dimension will be explored further in order to understand consumer purchase behaviour influences (e.g. family, friends, opinion leaders) and purchase motivations concerning the fact that Portuguese consumers are inserted in a collectivist society. Rogers’ adopter categorization model will give insights into two important aspects: the impact of generational backgrounds on the adoption of new fashion trends and, furthermore, the adoption categorization of each individual from generation X and Y, that will be subject to focus groups and interviews, according to their personal attributes and innovativeness. This draws literature review to an end. The following chapter presents the methodology applied in order to fulfil the objectives of this research.

CHAPTER V - Research methodology 5.1 Introduction This research will be developed in order to obtain new knowledge in the research field. Given the fact that this research is an exploratory study regarding motivational and behavioural aspects of the targeted consumers, it will seek for new insights, answer research questions and enhance the understanding of the particular field in study. The research design of this methodology will be built according to the ‘’Research Onion’’ (Saunders, et al 2007) illustrated by figure 4. The layers will provide an explanation of the research process underlying the choice of the research methods and justify how the applied research will fulfill the research aim and objectives (Saunders et al, 2009).

Figure 5.1 The research ‘’onion’’ (Source: Saunders et al, 2009)

5.2 Research aims and objectives The aim, objectives and research questions of this thesis were as follows

5.2.1 Aim To contribute to the understanding of how fashion trends spread throughout female generation X and Y in Portugal.

5.2.2 Objectives 1. To contextualize Portuguese fashion retail market in order to identify current local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends. 2. To understand external influences that impact consumer attitudes and purchase intentions towards fashion trends. 3. To explore each generation perception of trend as well as the meaning of being fashion forward in order to discuss how trends are diffused within both generations in Portugal. 4. To investigate to what extent and how fashion opinion leaders influence consumers from different generations. 5. To establish a relationship between generational and cultural backgrounds and fashion trend adoption and diffusion. The research questions set out to assist in achieving those objectives are presented in the table below.

5.2.3 Research questions Objectives

Research questions

1. To contextualize Portuguese fashion retail

1. How significant are local retailers within fashion

market in order to identify local retailer brands

retail market in Portugal?

meeting the latest fashion trends.

2. Who is the target consumer for local retailers? 3. How do local fashion retailers meet the latest fashion trends? What are the main sources for trend information? 4.

Why

does

these

retailers

offer

mainly

international brands? 5. What are the challenges and opportunities of marketing to generation X and Y? 2. To understand the key influences that

1. What is each generation’s buying behaviour?

impact

With whom do they buy?

consumer

attitudes

and

purchase

intentions towards fashion trends.

2. Who has the most considerable influence on generation X and Y? 3. Which reference groups do younger and older generations (X and Y) look to for fashion inspiration? 4. What are each generation choice criteria for fashion purchase?

3. To explore each generation perception of

1. How interested are consumers from generation

trend as well as the meaning of being fashion

X and Y in fashion?

forward

2. What does generation X and Y perceive as

order

understand

how

influences trend adoption behaviour.

fashion trend? 3. Which generation is more open to fashion trends? 4. What are the key influencers on each generation’s trend perception? 5. How does self-image and personal values influence trend adoption behaviour?

4. To investigate to what extent and how

1. How does each generation perceive fashion

fashion opinion leaders influence consumers

opinion leaders?

from different generations.

2. Which opinion leaders do generation X and Y look to for fashion trend inspiration? 3. Do opinion leaders influence each generation on their trend perception and adoption behaviour? 4. Do opinion leaders have the same influence on both generations?

establish

relationship

between

Which

generational

and

cultural

aspects

generational and cultural backgrounds and

influence fashion trend adoption?

fashion trend adoption and diffusion.

2. Does trend adoption behaviour define each generation in terms of their openness to fashion?

Table 5.1 Research objectives and questions (Source: Author’s own)

5.3 Research philosophy The research philosophy consists in several important assumptions that underpin the research strategy and the chosen methods derived from that strategy (Saunders et al, 2009). Research philosophy also refers to a precise procedure involving various steps through which a researcher creates a relationship between the research objectives and questions (Fisher, 2007). This dissertation adopted an interpretivist (hermeneutical) research philosophy. This philosophy is concerned with subjective meanings and social phenomena (Saunders et al, 2009). To understand how fashion trends are diffused within two different generations is the same as understanding underlying human perceptions, motivations and behaviours. This understanding is achieved through interpretation (Berg, 2003). According to this approach, human understanding derives from previous social understanding and cultural life, which forms a certain degree of previous knowledge about a specific or general subject (Hackley, 2003). The interpretive approach assumes that the researcher enters into the social world of the research subjects and comprehends their world from their point of view (Matthews and Ross, 2010), whereas the positivist philosophy is concerned with facts rather than impressions assuming that human actions can be separated from their social relations and surroundings (Yin, 2008). The positivist approach was unfit for this study since the aim is to establish the relationship between consumer generational backgrounds and fashion trend adoption.

5.4 Research approach Moving onto the second outer layer of the research onion, a deductive research approach was used. According to Saunders et al (2009), this method assumes that a general rule is true so it is applicable to explain individual situations. The research utilized literature review to achieve a broad understanding on generational studies, consumer motivations and trend diffusion theories. On the basis of these theories, two models were presented and tested sequentially. The Individualism-collectivism dimension from Hofstede’s et al (2010) national culture dimensions model was applied to Portugal and referred in the literature review. Following this, collectivist aspects in consumers were tested through individual interviews and focus groups (primary research). Rogers ‘’diffusion of innovations’’ model (Rogers, 2003) was presented in the literature review and the researcher adopter categorization was tested through primary research (i.e. Focus groups). This had the purpose of informing the research design.

This way, the research moved from theory to data. The theoretical findings were built in the literature review chapter whilst the findings from industry interviews and focus groups are discussed in the following chapter where collected primary data is presented.

5.4 Research Design 5.4.1 Research purpose and research choice This research adopted an exploratory and explanatory purpose. It is exploratory because it analyses different generation consumer behaviour towards fashion trends in order to explore internal and external influences impacting fashion trend adoption and diffusion processes. All the research questions raised from the objectives are ‘’what’’, ‘’how’’ and ‘’why’’ questions which implies that these are of exploratory and explanatory nature (Yin, 2003). The research is explanatory due to the fact that is intended to explain rather than simply describe a process (Maxwell and Mittapalli, 2008). Qualitative data was collected to explore and explain fashion consumer behaviour on adopting trends. The research choice of this study is multi method exploring a combination of qualitative research methods. Qualitative data use and generates non-numerical data (Saunders et al, 2009). The qualitative primary data was collected using in depth interviews (opinion leaders, retailers and consumers from generation X and Y) and focus groups (consumers from generation X and Y). This data was important to assess the impact of internal and external influences affecting fashion trend adoption (Creswell, 2008). Furthermore, Rogers (2003) and Hofstede et al (2010) model were both tested to firstly, qualitatively categorize each generation into adopter categories (e.g. laggard, early adopter, etc.) informing the research objectives and, secondly, understand whether cultural dimensions such as collectivism affect consumers adoption and purchase behaviour in Portugal. Finally, this gave a more solid notion of the motivations and perceptions of the research participants informing, therefore, the research objectives (Wilkinson and Birmingham, 2003)

5.4.2 Research strategy Research strategies are important tools to address the research questions (Matthews and Ross, 2010). The six main research strategies are surveys, experiment,

grounded theory, ethnography, action research and case study (Bassey, 2007). The research strategy adopted in this study was case study. As defined by Yin (2003:4) case study is a common research method in social sciences and is relevant to apply when there are questions seeking to explain some present circumstance (e.g. ‘’how’’ or ‘’why’’ some social phenomena works or happens) and in-depth analysis of social phenomena. Case study research was an appropriate strategy for this study because it enabled to answer research questions and meet research objectives. To understand consumer behaviour from different generational backgrounds and external and internal influences on fashion trend adoption, whilst reinforcing those findings through industry and retailer perspectives was the main goal to be achieved through this research. Consequently, it added strength to the research gap and knowledge to what has already been discussed through previous research. This research employed a multi method strategy relying on data triangulation in order to generate trustworthy insights concerning the research aim and objectives whilst ensuring the validity and reliability of data (Gray, 2009). Figure 4.2 illustrates the triangulation applied to this research.

Semi structured interviews and focus groups with consumers

TRIANGULATION

Semi structured interviews with local retailers

Semi structured interviews with experts

Figure 5.2 Research triangulation Model (Source: Authors’ own)

Initially, the study relied on secondary data using literature review in order to explore the research aim and objectives referring to the deductive approach of this research. Following this, the study resorted to interviews and focus groups to address the research objectives (Saunders et al, 2009). Qualitative in-depth Interviews to industry experts and local retailers as well as consumer interviews and focus groups were

used to assess perceptions from three different perspectives and evaluate whether there were any inconsistencies (i.e. data triangulation). Focus groups took an important role in this case study strategy because it delivered explanatory and exploratory data about each generationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s behaviours, motivations, attitudes, perceptions and opinions for content analysis (Hackley, 2003) and, therefore, a richer insight on consumer perceptions towards fashion trends. Consequently, this led to a higher understanding of the research context as well as the process being enacted (Saunders et al, 2009).

5.4.3 Research time horizon The research methodology is strongly dependent on the time horizon in which the research is going to be performed. A cross sectional study refers to any research performed over a particular time period (Saunders et al, 2009). Keeping in mind that the study was done over a short and limited amount of time and resource constraints, a cross sectional research was utilized to answer the research questions. This research is cross sectional as it explores how fashion trends diffuse within two fashion consumer generations in Portugal at this particular time.

5.5 Data collection methods Data collection was done through four stages and included secondary research with the literature review as well as primary research covering the personal in depth interviews and focus groups. Furthermore, analysis were undertaken to achieve triangulation and thus appropriately fulfil objectives 2, 3, 4 and 5. The next section will explain thoroughly all the data collection methods.

5.5.1 Secondary research: Literature review Secondary data is information other researchers have conducted of a subject (Malthotra and Birks, 2007). Documented data and multiple source data such as written material (academic journals, reports, and newspaper) were used in the secondary research (Saunders et al, 2009). As cited by Malthotra and Birks (2007:96) secondary research lead to a more insightful interpretation of primary data, whilst aiding on the development of an appropriate research design. Therefore, a substantial literature review was included in this study in order to build a foundation of secondary data from relevant authors discussing the topic of generational

backgrounds as a starting point for this research. Table 2 identifies the main topics, theorists and sources used as a foundation to address the topics from this research. Table Overview of main secondary resources

Topic of research

Relevance of topic

Theorists

- Overview of the fashion retail

- Agis et al, 2010;

market in Portugal

- Ramos, 2003;

- Local retailers meeting latest

- Azevedo, 2008;

fashion trends

- Lourenço, 2005;

- Consumer need for fashion

- Agis, 2012; Almeida et al, 2011.

Portuguese

Fashion

retail market

trends - Generation X and Y in Portugal

2. Consumer motivations

- Consumer behaviour

- Blackwell et al, 2006; Kotler, 1997;

and purchase intentions

- Generational studies linked to

Armstrong, 2009;

fashion purchase

- Dias, 2003; Cardoso et al, 2010;

Influences

consumer

behaviour: -

Self

concept

- Hofstede (2010); Solomon and and

cultural

backgrounds -

Theories

trend

diffusion

Life

stage

Leung et al, 2002 Rabolt (2004) - Lee et al (2013); Serralvo et al

and

product

(2010); Phau and Lo (2004);

involvement

- Cho and Workman, 2011)

- Reference groups and media

- Yang et al, 2007; McQuarrie et al,

- Opinion leaders

2003; Lazarevic, 2012.

- Definition of trends, fashion

- MacGillivray and Hann, 2009;

forward, style, etc.

- Kawamura, 2005;

- Trend diffusion and adoption

- Rogers, 2003;

theories

Abrahamson,

1991;

Gladwell,

2000; - Spolter and Thakkar, 2011. Table 5.2 Overview of main secondary research (Source: Author’s own)

Two models were presented in this stage. Hofstede’s cultural dimensions model (i.e. Individualism-collectivism dimension) was used as secondary data to explore purchase

motivations

Portuguese

consumers

concerning

their

cultural

background. Rogers (2003) diffusion and adoption model was presented and later applied, through primary research stage, to place each generation group into adopter categories according to their adopter attributes. Following this, existing literature was mapped and a gap regarding the influence of generational backgrounds on fashion consumer trend adoption in Portugal was identified. The literature review was broken down into three key areas focusing on Portuguese fashion retail market and retailers, consumer motivations and purchase intentions and theories on trend diffusion.

5.5.2 Primary research Primary research data collection was done in two stages: interviews and focus groups. On the first stage interviews were conducted with three samples (local retailers, industry experts and fashion consumers from generation X and Y). During this stage, three retailer professionals and three opinion leaders offered their views on fashion trends, trend adoption, and Portuguese fashion consumers from generation X and Y. Two consumer groups with age between 34 and 45 (generation X) and 24 to 35 (generation Y) also responded to interviews in order to offer insights regarding attitudes and fashion purchase motivations. In the second stage, fashion consumers were divided into two groups (one generation X and one generation Y) and a focus group was conducted. This stage was important to infer new insights regarding fashion consumer trend adoption behaviour and, therefore, gain new knowledge concerning the research aim and objectives.

5.5.2.1 Interviews 5.5.2.1.1 local retailers In order to identify current local retailer stores meeting the latest fashion trends (Objective 1) interviews were conducted. This method was used to provide valid and reliable data relevant for the first objective of the research (Berg, 2008). Of the fashion retailer market in Portugal, discussed in the first chapter of the literature review, two multi brand local retailers targeting generation X and Y were identified as potential interests for interviews. The two retailers are positioned in the middle fashion market (please refer to table 5.5). Other retail formats such as international and domestic fashion retailer chains were not considered for this research, as the purpose was to study local fashion retail businesses.

Retailer

Location

Glossy

Lisbon, Portugal

The trend hunterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s closet

Lisbon, Portugal

Table 5.3 Multi brand Local retailers in Portugal

Twenty-two open-ended questions were employed through a semi-structured interview (please refer to Appendix 7 to see full template). Convenience sampling was used as the sampling method (Saunders et al, 2009) due to ease of access attained through the researcherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal networks.

Topic

Sample questions How would you define your store?

Demographics and

How important is the fashion consumer for your store? Why?

opening questions

How significant is fashion retail within Portugal? How important is the latest fashion trends to your consumer? How do you meet these?

External influences

What is the main source of information for latest fashion trends? If you had to define your consumer by generation, would they be x or y (define each)? Why? Why mix of international and local brands?

Brand offer and

If your offer is mainly international brands, why?

communication

How do you ensure that your offer follows the latest fashion trends? Where do you find inspiration? (Blogs, magazines, celebrities, etc.) Why? What are your best selling brands? Why?

Opportunities and

What are the opportunities of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? How

challenges of

do you maximize them?

marketing to

What are the challenges of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? How do

portuguese fashion consumers

you overcome those? Are there any differences in fashion consumption between younger age groups and older age groups? What differences?

Table 5.4 Local retailers interview topics and sample questions

5.5.2.1.2 Industry experts To investigate how and to what extent fashion opinion leaders influence consumers from each generation (Objective 2 and 4), expert interviews were conducted. Three Portuguese fashion bloggers were chosen (see Appendix 51, 52 and 53). Considering the high volume of fashion blogs interacting with fashion consumers, fashion bloggers were chosen (table 5.7) through non-probability sample (i.e. convenience sampling) to represent the larger audience (Saunders et al, 2009). The views given by opinion leaders were generalized to understand the general fashion consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

motivations

and

perceptions

towards

trends

without

statistical

representation. A semi-structured interview with fifteen open-ended questions was employed. The same questions were employed to fashion bloggers. Each interview was recorded using a dictaphone and notes were taken. An interview guide was created (please refer to Appendix 8 for full template) to ensure that the topic of interest was discussed, therefore, fulfilling objective 2 and 4. A sample of the questions used is presented on table 4.8.

Fashion blogger

Blog name

Blog Content

Carolina Flores

Last minute dreams

Street fashion

Joana Duarte

Style and Expect

Street fashion and lifestyle

Joana Peixoto

Vision of a dreamer

Lifestyle

Table 5.5 Interviewed fashion bloggers

Â Â Topic

Sample questions

Level of fashion

How important is for you to be up to date with new fashion trends?

involvement and

Do you read other Portuguese fashion blogs? If so, which ones?

opinion leadership

How do you define a fashion opinion leader?

perception What role do opinion leaders play on fashion trend adoption and diffusion in Portugal? External influences

Which celebrities are most important in Portugal? Why? Do celebrities have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour? How? What is your opinion about reference groups (define reference groups) in terms of how these impacts on fashion trend adoption behaviour?

Table 5.6 Expert interview topics and sample questions

5.5.2.1.3 Fashion consumers from generation X and Y In order to address objective 2, 3 and 4, twelve in depth face-to-face interviews with six individuals from generation X and six from Y were done in a neutral environment serving the purpose to capture insights about how consumers from different generations perceive fashion trends and the meaning of being fashion forward. Participants were chosen using a non-probability sampling or convenience sampling technique in which the selection of individuals depends on the ease of their volunteering and availability (Saunders et al, 2012). A series of six individual interviews to each generation participant allowed building fashion consumer profiles. Semi structured interviews with nineteen open ended questions allowed flexibility to discuss other areas (Hackley, 2003) and were chosen to achieve a comprehensive understanding (Bell, 2010) about consumer perceptions and motivations towards fashion trend adoption in order to supply the findings from this qualitative research. The same questions were employed to each interviewee. An interview guide was created (please refer to Appendix 9 for full template) to ensure that the topic of

conversation informed objectives 2, 3, 4 and 5. A sample of the questions used is presented on table 5.9. Topic Fashion

Sample questions What does fashion trends mean for you? Why?

involvement and

Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why?

trend perception

How often do you buy clothing?

Purchase and

What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why?

adoption behaviour,

Which fashion brands do you wish to own?

and self perception

Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why?

Key influences on trend adoption

Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why?

Table 5.7 Consumer individual interview topics and sample questions (Source: Author’s own)

5.5.2.2 Focus groups The interactional environment provided by focus groups allowed individuals from each group to express their own feelings and opinions towards fashion trends (Malthotra and Birkis, 2007); it is a form of an informal meeting encouraging selfexpression providing a richer, further and more ‘’honest’’ qualitative data (Matthews and Ross, 2010). Two focus groups with six consumers from each generation were conducted. Each focus group consisted of six female consumers, for a total of twelve participants between the ages of 24 to 45. The participants from each focus group were the same individuals from the interviews. The interview guide created for focus groups (please refer to Appendix 10 for full interview guide) was similar to the one employed in the individual interviews and projection techniques were also applied to each group. According to Donoghue (2000) projection techniques ‘’ involve the use of vague, ambiguous, unstructured stimulus objects or situations in which the subject projects his or her personality, attitudes, opinions and self concept’’ (2000:47). A compilation of seven images (please refer to Appendix 13) showing different fashion brands selected from both local retailer stores was created and presented to each

generation focus group. This was done in an effort to uncover inner motivations and attitudes (Collis and Hussey, 2009) that each individual had towards the trends and the brands. This provided with new insights on consumer adoption behaviour. The images were shown to each group, each participant had to write down individually if the brands were appealing to them or not while attributing adjectives to each brand. Moreover, a compilation of three different images (see Appendix 12) of consumers shopping with family, friends and alone were presented to each interviewee to provide further insights on consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attitudes and influences on fashion purchasing. Furthermore, three images of celebrities (please refer to Appendix 14) were also shown in an effort to uncover inner attitudes towards celebrities to understand to what extent these influence each participant. Additionally, local retailer store visuals were presented (please refer to Appendix 15) to each group in order to further explore respondentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opinions and motivations towards shopping in these retailer brands. A semi structured interview guide was created to ensure that the topic being discussed informed objectives 2, 3, 4 and 5. A sample of the questions used is presented on table 5.10. Topic Fashion

Sample questions What does it mean to be on trend?

involvement and

Do you consider yourself fashionable?

trend perception

How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? How important is for you to be on trend What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, durability,

Purchase and adoption behaviour in fashion

price, quality, fit or comfort) What do you think the way you dress says about yourself? Please choose one personal feature that best describes your individual personality when adopting a trend and write down in a paper (i.e. skeptical, venturesome, traditional, cautious, eager to experiment). Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 4). These are four

Self perception (i.e.

different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write

projection

down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from these stores?

techniques)

Why? Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 5). These are four different images of fashion brands (selected brands from local retailers). Could you please tell me the first impressions that you get from these brands? Why? Who do you look to for fashion ideas the most? (Family, friends, brands, social

Key influencers on trend adoption

media, celebrities, magazines, media) What blogs do you look at for trend information? How often? Which magazines do you look at for trend information? How often?

Table 5.8 Consumer focus group topics and projection techniques sample questions

Since this research follows a deductive approach, the focus group was also created to test trend adopter categories on each generation group (Rogers, 2003) in order to support objective 3. The key topics discussed in the interviews led to a better understanding of where each generation group is placed within trend adoption categories. Table 5.11 depicts key adopter categories according to Rogers (2003): Adopter category

Personal attributes

Innovators

Venturesome (cope with high degree of uncertainty)

Early adopters

Cautious

Early majority

Deliberate

Late majority

Skeptical

Laggards

Traditional

Table 5.9 Adopter categories and attributes (Source: Author’s own adapted from Rogers, 2003)

In order to not inhibit each participant contribution, the interviewer assured to all participants that there was no right or wrong questions and asked them to speak as much as they could on each given topic. Each focus group was audio recorded and notes were taken. These were then transcribed and can be found in Appendix 27 and 28.

5.6 Data analysis The collected qualitative data was analysed through qualitative content analysis. According to Wilkinson and Birmingham (2003:68) content analysis is, a research technique that ‘’applies significance or meaning to collected information by making replicable and valid inferences from data to their context’’. The qualitative data from interviews and focus groups was analysed through trending themes, choices, tones and sentiments. The data generated by interviews and focus groups were then transcribed and arranged into themes. Each theme contained content related with the research aim and objectives (Creswell, 2008). Data triangulation from three different perspectives (i.e. local retailers, industry experts and consumers) was done in order to increase the credibility and validity of the results (Cohen et al, 2000). Each interview and focus group provided the following themes:

Local retailers main themes

Experts main themes

Consumers main themes

1. Demographics and opening

1. Level of fashion

1. Fashion involvement and trend

questions

involvement and

perception

1.1 Target consumer.

opinion leadership

1.1. Fashion trend perception and the

1.2 Store concept, location.

perception

meaning of fashionable

1.3 the significance of fashion retail

1.1 consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

1.2 fashion purchase behaviour of each

among within Portugal

perception of fashion

generation

opinion leaders

2. Trend information sources

2. External

2. Purchase and adoption behaviour,

2.1 Importance of meeting fashion

influences

and self perception

trends.

2.1 celebrities and their

2.1 Aspirational vs. Regular brand purchase

2.2 Main sources of fashion trend

influence

2.2 importance of third party opinions

information.

perception

2.3 Definition of target consumer by

2.2

generation and fashionability

fashion opinion leaders

behaviour

3. Brand communication and

3. Key influences on trend adoption

offer

trend

3.1 Brand communication to target

adoption behaviour.

3.2 Media and Brands

2.3 influence of fashion

3.3 Opinion leaders and celebrities

consumer.

Challenges

each

trend

regarding clothing choices influence

generation

perception

and

2.3 individual personality and trend adoption

3.1 Family and friends

brands and media in

3.2 international brand offer

the

and

opportunities of marketing to

portuguese consumers

fashion

4. Self-perception 4.1 personal values when shopping

generation X and Y

4.2 impact of celebrities on adoption and

4.1 Challenges and opportunities-

purchase behaviour

how to maximize and overcome

4.3 local retailers as the chosen fashion

them.

store to shop for trends

4.2

differences

fashion

consumption between younger and

4.4 inner circles and their influence on purchase behaviour

older age groups. Table 5.10 Adopter categories and attributes (Source: Authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own adapted from Rogers, 2003)

Regarding to adopter categorization (please refer table 4.11), there were individual personal attributes gathered from the in depth interviews and focus group questions. These were then, identified and place into adopter categories. Following this, conclusions were drawn which formed the basis of the findings presented in the following chapter. The results provided an overview of how fashion trends are adopted and diffused within consumers from different generational backgrounds.

4.7 Ethics According to Saunders et al (2009) ethics are defined as the properness of the researchers behaviour in relation to the respondentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rights. Therefore, all participants were informed and debriefed about the aims of the research and the type

of data to be collected through a consent form. This requirement involved their agreement for the researcher to utilize all audio recordings as well as personal and general information disclosure provided during the interview and focus groups for the specific use by this dissertation only and its supervisors. The informed consent was obtained through assurance of confidentiality, maximizing benefit and minimizing harm as well as respecting the dignity and anonymity of the interviewed individuals (Saunders et al, 2009). All participants confirmed their approval by signing interview and focus group consent forms (refer to Appendix 49 and 50).

4.8 Methodology limitations A number of limitations concerning validity and reliability of this research have been identified. Limitations from using focus groups include biased outputs due to the fact that focus groups tend to be influenced by one or two dominant people (Hackley, 2003). The researcher functioned as a facilitator in order to coordinate and promote group interaction while minimizing dominance of group members. Furthermore, projection techniques were employed in consumer focus groups in order to provide impartial feedback from respondents. A careful planning and preparation of the interview guide was required in order to appropriately approach all participants and prevent error and bias (Wilkinson and Birmingham, 2003). However, interview method is disposed to bias and reliability issues. For example, this is more likely to occur when interviewees respond accordingly to what they think the researcher want them to say (i.e. participant bias) due to the researcher body language or sensitive research topics (Saunders et al, 2009). In order to counteract this situation, confidentiality and anonymity had to be preserved and were assured through the use of consent forms (Creswell, 2008). Given that all consumer interviews and focus groups were conducted with a small sample of personal associates this increased the risk of unreliable and biased answers, therefore, leading to a lack of standardized answers (Saunders et al, 2009). Given the qualitative nature of this research, the data collected is a partial representation of the total population of fashion consumers in Portugal. According to Yin (2008) the used sampling method (i.e. convenience sampling) often suffers from biases. The inherent bias in convenience sampling can lead to an over or under representation of the population being studied (Saunders, et al 2009). However, the use of small samples combined with in depth interviews and focus groups have

proven to be effective to provide further insights on perceptions, attitudes, emotions and motivations towards fashion trends. Finally, the knowledge gained from the consumer findings, industry experts (i.e. fashion bloggers) and local retailers were limited. The gathered data was only sourced from a limited number of interviews and focus groups. This presents a positive aspect, which is the lack of generalisation. However, strong insights arising from this research may allow the exploration of new topics on future studies in the same field with a wider sample. Nevertheless, this data was still utilized in the aim of gaining representative insights and a general understanding of the topic.

4.9 Chapter Summary This study adopted an interpretivist (hermeneutical) philosophy choosing a qualitative multi method research and a deductive approach. The relationship between consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; generational backgrounds, trend adoption and key influences on fashion purchase (i.e. opinion leaders) was explored and collected through secondary research. Regarding the research objectives, case study strategy was adopted to gain new insights on fashion trend adoption and diffusion of female fashion consumers (generation X and Y) in Portugal. Finally, the data collection methods chosen for primary research included interviews with industry experts, local retailers and consumers from each generation to explore the views of these three segments on how fashion trends diffuse and are adopted in Portugal (objective one, two, four and five). Focus groups interviews were conducted in an effort to explore each generation perception of trend and adopter category (objective three and reinforcement of objective four). Table 4.12 displays an overview of the methodology presented on this chapter.

Methodology overview

Table 5.11 Methodology chapter overview (Source: Authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own)

CHAPTER VI – Findings and discussion This chapter presents the key findings of this research in relation to the objectives proposed in the introduction and their respective research questions. It also attempts to find further insights regarding the aim of this study:

To contribute to the understanding of how fashion trends spread throughout female generation X and Y in Portugal. Furthermore, content analysis is used to analyse the obtained answers from expert, consumer and retailer in depth interviews and consumers focus groups. This was done in an effort to provide further knowledge that will be discussed throughout this chapter.

6.1 Local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends The first objective of this research was: To contextualize Portuguese fashion retail market in order to identify local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends.

This objective was fulfilled through a series of interviews with local retailers.

6.1.1 The significance of local retailers within fashion retail market in Portugal. The interviews that were carried out revealed that local retailers, despite not having an opinion about how significant they are within the fashion retail market, are very committed on capturing Portuguese fashion consumers from both generations in the study. Furthermore, the most important aspects that differentiate their stores from the others are their exclusive offer of brands in store, the customized service they have with their regular customers and their location. Both interviewed retailers commented on how their brand mix is an advantage for their business. The trend hunter’s closet store owner highlights this by referring that the majority of her customers come to her store because most of the brands in store ‘’attract them to walk in’’. The customized service mentioned by Glossy store owner refers to the close relationship between her and her regular customers. This is mostly common in small retailers businesses and

supports Agis (2012) argument regarding the informal relationship maintained between this type of retailer stores and their customers. The store owner of this store also added: ‘‘Our choice and offer influences their perception of new trends they come to us to see what is on and what is not… Our customers rely on us and on our service to decide what to shop’’ (Appendix 19) As mentioned in chapter I, local independent retailers are highly concentrated in the downtown area of the main cities in Portugal (Lisbon and Porto), which also attracts many tourists (Cushman and Wakefield, 2008). The location is extremely important for local retailers because it allows them to engage with different audiences. One of the respondents remarked: ‘‘The store is located in a cool and hipster area of Lisbon that is referred in many touristic guides and, obviously, this attracts many different people to our store’’ (Appendix 18) The table below presents some of the key comments regarding the significance of local independent retailers within the fashion retail market in Portugal and the importance of fashion consumers to these retailer formats.

Retailer brand

The significance of local retailers

The

importance

within fashion retail market

consumer

segment

of for

fashion these

retailers The

trend

hunter’s closet

Glossy

‘’Unfortunately, from what I can perceive I think that fashion retail is a very little significant in Portugal. Medium and small fashion retail businesses like this one are highly concentrated in Lisbon’’

‘’ Our store has a very unique offer if a consumer is looking for something different or unconventional he/she will find it here.’’

‘’ Local retailers are part of a cultural thing in Portugal. Street commerce has been around for so long and local retailers are part of it.’’

‘’ I feel that the average fashion consumer in Portugal may not be open to this type of clothing but, surprisingly, I have been seeing more and more Portuguese customers walking in… if someone is looking for a piece of clothing that no one else has this is the place to shop.’’

‘’ This type of retail format is important within the whole fashion retail market because it balances out with other retailer formats such as Shopping centres. ‘’

‘’ This type of retailer format is compatible with fashion consumers because it offers a wide variety of brands that you don’t see on most fashion retailers operating in Portugal.’’

‘’ Portuguese consumers look at street shopping as something enjoyable because they can walk around and enjoy the view while shopping for exclusive brands that aren’t in shopping centres’’

‘’Considering the recurrent recession, price is always an issue and the store has more affordable clothes but I would say that most of my consumers come here because of the design and exclusivity. They prefer to spend a little more and take something that fits them well and no one else has.’’

Table 6.1 Retailer interviews key comments on the significance of local fashion retail and the importance of fashion consumers

6.1.2 Local retailers target consumer One of the respondents referred that their target consumer is concerned about quality and fit and prefers to invest in something that is high quality from an exclusive brand than buy in quantity. Both retailer brands stated that they aim to target a younger segment (generation Y), a consumer that wants to be ‘’trendy’’ and ‘’casual’’. However, both interviewees agreed that the majority of their customers belong to an older segment (generation X) due to their higher purchase power, which becomes a difficult task to target younger segments. The table below presents key comments regarding how each retailer brand defined their target consumer by generation and degree of fashionability (through Rogers categorization).

Local Retailers

Target consumer by generation

Target

consumer

how

fashionable they are The hunters closet

Glossy

trend

‘’ I see a lot of Y’s loving our products and asking for their parents (X’s) to buy for them so I would say that we aim to target Y’s as they are the ones who wear our product the most but who actually buys are X’s.’’

‘’ It is more inclined to early majority because we have a very trendy and more up to date than ever clothing offer in store and our customers buy it.’’

‘’ Initially, I tried to target generation Y but it is clearly generation X, because they have more financial possibilities that Y’s.’’

‘’ I would define my consumer as someone highly fashionable, between early adopters and early majority. Most Portuguese female consumers wait a while until something becomes mainstream.’’

Table 6.2 Local retailers key opinions regarding their target consumer.

According to the table 6.2, to each local retailer consumer adopter categories were given in order to characterize their target consumer. The first retailer targets consumers from generation Y but their lower purchase power prevents this segment on purchasing. However, the second retailer identified its target as all consumers from generation X due to their higher purchase power.

6.1.3 The importance of meeting the latest fashion trends and how do they meet them Both local retailer interviewees regard fashion trends as an essential ‘’tool’’ for their business. Therefore, both retailers use online research (e.g. fashion blogs, runway collections, and magazines) and the information from their brand suppliers in order to meet the latest fashion trends. One of the retailers, however, commented that her limited budget prevents her from investing as heavily in market research for this purpose.

6.1.3.1 Trend information and inspiration sources Both retailer brands use information sources such as fashion blogs and online fashion magazines that also serve as inspirational tools for them. The two local retailers referred that the information gathered from their brand suppliers is also valuable and, in conjunction with the store owner’s own preferences, they decide which trends and collections will be sold in store.

Retailer brands The trend hunter’s closet

Fashion blogs for trend inspiration and information Fashion magazines and catalogues.

Fashion inspiration sources

Glossy

Fashion magazines for trend reference and information, i.e. Vogue and Elle Portugal Fashion blogs and celebrity endorsement with fashion brands (Mira Duma, Olivia Palermo and Katie Holmes)

Table 6.3 Local retailers’ fashion trend inspiration sources.

6.1.4 The reasons for international brand offer Local retailer The trend hunter’s closet

Brands Wrangler, Lee, Buffalo and Iron

Best seller brands Just female

fist

Glossy

Colcci, Denny Rose and Saoco

Hoss and Twin set

Table 6.4 Local retailers’ brand offer and bestseller brands

According to the interviewed retailers, there are few local ‘’popular’’ brands. The success of international brands operating in Portugal is in alignment with what has been discussed by Almeida et al (2011) when the author argued that Portuguese purchase patterns are brand led. One of the interviewees stated that the majority of Portuguese consumers prefer imported brands than local brands. The other interviewee mentioned that due to the fact that the store owner is not Portuguese is main reason for selling only international brands as she wanted to launch different brands that she knew and no one else could find in Portugal. The table below presents the brands and bestseller brands in each retailer store.

6.1.4.1 Communication to target consumer Only one of the local retailer brands uses social media platforms (i.e. Facebook and Instagram, please refer to Appendix 1, 2, 3 and 4) to communicate their brand to the target consumer. The other retailer brand does not engage with social media for brand communication purposes, instead they prefer to maintain ‘’physical’’ contact with their regular customers:

‘’ Most of our costumers are either not into social media or don’t have time for that as they prefer to go directly to our store or call us to ask about news or fashion trends.’’ (Appendix 19)

6.1.5 Challenges and opportunities of marketing to generation X and Y In terms of opportunities, both interviewees agreed that fashion events (e.g. Portugal fashion, Lisbon fashion week) should have more visibility and be ‘’approachable’’ to everyone in Portugal in order to promote fashion to both consumer segments. Although only one retailer engages with social media platforms, both retailers agreed that the use of social media is an important tool to reinforce their communication their target consumers.

In terms of challenges, when marketing to generation X and Y one of the interviewees commented on the importance of purchase power and how that influences trend perception and purchase behaviour. The other local retailer interviewee mentioned that the openness to fashion (i.e. ability to adopt a new trend) as the main challenge in marketing to both age segments: ‘’ The majority of fashion consumers in Portugal are too conservative and not open to difference. This happens mostly in generation X because most of the Y’s that I see are less conservative albeit small buyers. ‘’ (Appendix 18) The table below presents the key comments regarding the opportunities and challenges of marketing to generation X and Y:

Retailer brand

Opportunities

How to maximize

Challenges

How to overcome

The trend hunter’s closet

Glossy

‘’ I think that most of the opportunities refer to fashion events such as Portugal Fashion, Lisbon Fashion Week, and Fashion’s Night Out.’’

‘’ To change the strategy used. Most fashion events are related with high couture or high-end brands and the average consumer has no interest or purchase power to buy those. Fashion Brands should invest more on communication and sponsor these fashion events, otherwise no one knows about their existence.’’

‘’ It has to do with the openness to fashion of most fashion consumers in Portugal... It is quite difficult to communicate new things for them. The majority of fashion consumers are too conservative and not open to difference. This happens mostly in generation X because most of the Y’s that I see are less conservative albeit small buyers. ‘’

‘’ Is to make new trends more affordable in order to increase the purchase power and maybe the ‘’openness’’ factor that prevents most consumers to adhere to fashion trends’’

‘’ Social media and media are the biggest opportunities out there! I also think that the average fashion consumer is open to fashion and the media should take advantage of this and create more events related with fashion.’’

‘’ Fashion brands should invest more in their brand communication either through events or social media. There are very few examples of local successful brands and the only way to change this was to shift the mind-set regarding local brands. There has been some campaigns promoting local products and brands but it doesn’t reach everyone.’’

‘’ The biggest challenge is the purchase power in Portugal.’’

‘’ I think that if a consumer has more purchase power she will take more risks on trying trends.’’

Table 6.5 Opportunities and challenges of marketing to each generation.

6.1.5.1 Fashion consumption differences between younger and older age segments The local retailers stated that there are differences between both generations in terms of their trend adoption and purchase behaviour in fashion. The key differences are summarised in the table below:

Generation Y fashion consumers

Generation X fashion consumers

- More adventurous and open to fashion and

- More conservative and less open to fashion and new

new trends.

trends as they fear to take risks.

- Less purchase power, therefore they prefer

- Higher purchase power, therefore they invest more in

to buy in quantity rather than quality.

quality and less in quantity.

- More adventurous and keen on buying into

- More conservative in what they buy; they are more

brands that they relate with, some of them

self-confident and have their own identity.

are still finding their own identity. Table 6.6 Fashion consumption differences between each generation

According to table 6.7 these are the retailersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; insights regarding consumption differences between younger and older age segments. These findings are consistent with those of Dias (2003) and Rothwell (2006), who state that consumers from generation Y are highly accustomed and receptive to fashion and, therefore, more adventurous when experimenting with brands. However, when asked about their target consumer both retailers agreed that their frequent customers belong to an older generation segment. According to retailers, these opinions indicate that even though generation X are less innovative on trend adoption they take more risks than younger generations due to their higher ability to purchase (i.e. purchase power).

6.2 Key influences that impact consumer attitudes and purchase intentions towards fashion trends This section considers objective 2 of the study: Objective 2 was:

To understand the key influences that impact consumer attitudes and purchase intentions towards fashion trends.

6.2.1 Buying behaviour of each generation 6.2.1.1 Purchase frequencies and the importance of fashion within their expenditure The focus groups (please refer to Appendix 35 and 36) and individual interviews (please refer to Appendix 23 to 34) revealed that fashion purchase are mostly done on a monthly basis (generation Y) in comparison with generation X consumers that

buy seasonally. According to this research, however, generation X consider fashion as not important to fairly important within their expenditure, whereas generation Y interviewees consider fashion as moderately to very important within their monthly expenditures. Table 6.8 depicts the key comments of each generation regarding to this topic. Generation Y ‘’ I need to have new clothes regularly.’’

Generation X ‘’Fashion is not important. It occupies only 5% within my total expenditure.’’

Table 6.7 key comments from each generation regarding to fashion importance and purchase frequency

These findings support Bakewell and Mitchell (2003) argument regarding generation Y impulsive fashion purchase behaviour that leads to more frequent purchases, in comparison with Watchravesringkan and Hodges (2010) findings concerning generation X purchase behaviour that is led by utilitarian need. This need leads to ‘’seasonal’’ purchases in order to fulfil a specific need (e.g. to buy a warm coat before winter).

6.2.1.2 With whom do they shop? Both younger and older age segments were tested through projection techniques during focus groups (Appendix 35 and 36) in order to understand their purchase and adoption behaviour and influences. When asked if they shopped alone or with family and friends, most of the respondents from generation X agreed that they shop alone with the exception of one respondent that mentioned she liked to shop with her sister because of the importance given to her opinion. Four of the respondents from generation Y agreed that they go shopping alone if they want to buy clothes. However, half of the respondents from this generation revealed that if they are looking for something in particular or just browsing through fashion stores they prefer the company of a friend or family. These findings support, indeed, Lazarevic’s (2012) argument regarding generation Y purchase habits. However, only two respondents from generation Y mentioned that they prefer to go shopping, most of the time, with family and friends and rarely go shopping alone, which contrasts with previous studies (Lin and Xia, 2011) regarding generation Y consumer purchase behaviour. Each table below (table 5.9 and 5.10) summarizes how many respondents from each

generation have a positive or negative attitude towards going shopping alone, with family or friends.

Generation X (sample of six participants)

‘’ It is boring’’

‘’ It is fun’’

Shopping alone

Shopping with family

Shopping with friends

Table 6.8 Generation X attitudes towards shopping alone, with friends or family.

Generation Y (sample of six participants)

‘’ It is boring’’

‘’ It is fun’’

Shopping alone

Shopping with family

Shopping with friends

Table 6.9 Generation Y attitudes towards shopping alone, with friends or family.

According to table 6.10 all of generation X respondents refer to shopping alone as a ‘’fun’’ activity and only half of the respondents from the same group feel the same way about shopping with friends. However, most of generation Y respondents prefer to shop with family (e.g. with their mother) for budget reasons. Half of the participants of this group like to shop with their friends, whereas the majority of generation Y respondents feel the same way about shopping alone. This is in line with Lee’s et al (2013) argument concerning fashion consumer groups and their behaviour. The author argues that a very common feature of young fashion consumer groups is that they either together or alone.

6.2.1.3 Fashion brand choices Generation X interviewees (please refer to Appendix 39 to 34) stated that they shop for new trends and from high street fashion retailers that meet the needs for this age group. Lanidor, Massimo Dutti and Zara were among the most commonly mentioned brands in all individual interviews and focus groups. Most of the respondents from the younger generation group (please refer to Appendix 23 to 28) mentioned the same high street fashion retailer brands. H&M, Zara and Mango were indicated as usual brands either for a regular purchase (e.g. basics) or for trend hunting. Both generation groups agreed that the mentioned brands are amongst the current leading retailers in the fashion retail market in Portugal. These include Inditex group (Zara, Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti, etc.), Punto FA (Mango) and HM group. One of the respondents from generation Y remarked:

‘’ I usually go to all Inditex group brands like Zara, Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti, etc. This is mainly because these brands offer clothes that are within my ‘’comfort zone’’ of taste. I have never thought about this question nor I have never tried to go to other stores to shop for clothes.’’ (Appendix 24)

Most of local retailer brands were not cited at all. Very few brands from local retailers were mentioned in individual interviews (e.g. Hoss Intropia and Colcci, see table 5.10), which supports Agis (2012) argument that, in Portugal, most of the high street fashion brands located inside shopping centres are more well positioned than local retailers brands located in the main commercial streets.

Age cohort

Brands more often purchased

Brand that each generation would like to own

Generation X

Massimo

Dutti,

Lanidor,

Globe,

Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Hoss Intropia,

Zara, Stefanel, Mango, Promod,

designer

New

Carolina Herrera

Yorker,

Guess,

Colcci,

brand

Jose

Antonio

Tenente,

Stradivarius

Generation Y

Zara, Stradivarius, Mango, H&M

Massimo

Dutti,

Burberry,

Michael

Kors,

Adolfo Dominguez, Hoss Intropia, Hugo Boss, Stefanel, Balenciaga Table 6.10 Most often purchased brands and most desired brands.

Participants were questioned about the brands they wished to own and both generation groups expressed an overall desire to own luxury and designer labels. According to table 6.11, the same brand was chosen by each generation as the brand they wished to own. This is in line with Dias (2003) and Harradine et al (2007) argument regarding different generation consumer behaviour towards brand choice, which refer that although there is a significant difference between each generation (X and Y) in terms of their purchase behaviour their brand choices are not considerable different. Therefore, it was expected that both generations would have chosen the same brand. However, four respondents from both generations had a different answer towards desired brands (see table 6.12).

Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ Honestly, I don’t have a particular brand that I

‘’ I feel that because I am not aware of brands,

wished to own. I don’t have any aspirational brand

therefore I cannot talk about something that I don’t

in this regard maybe because I don’t have more

know. ‘’

purchase power in order to try more expensive brands.’’ ‘’I don’t have any expensive brand in particular; I

‘’ I am unimpressed by aspirational brands;

am not too aspirational in that field. ‘’

therefore there isn’t any particular brand that I wish to own.

Table 6.11 Fashion consumption differences between each generation

These comments reveal that consumers from generation Y correlate purchase power with their higher or lower involvement with fashion brands, which supports the answers provided by one of the retailers: ‘’ I also think that most people’s perception of new and different trends is a distorted perception and if it is expensive they won’t even try, they are too hesitant and prefer to wait and see what happens to that trend.’’ (Appendix 18) On the other hand, both participants from generation X showed little interest in owning ‘’aspirational’’ brands. These were the same participant who considered fashion as not important within their expenditures. Furthermore, consumers from generation Y place greater emphasis on owning luxury and designer brands than the older generation group despite their purchase power. These findings support Watchravesringkan and Hodges (2010) argument regarding consumers from generation Y and the strong influence of hedonic needs on their fashion purchase behaviour.

6.2.1.3.1. Brand associations and attitudes from each generation Using projective techniques the participants from each generation were shown images of the ads of six brands chosen from the local retailers. The participants in each focus group were asked to write their impressions and adjectives associated to each image. This was done in an effort to uncover the attitudes and purchase intentions that each participant have towards brands from local retailers.

The table below summarizes the most frequent adjectives attributed by participants to each brand.

Brand Hoss Intropia

Generation Y ‘‘Elegant’’,

‘’formal’’,

sophisticated’’,

Generation X ‘’ Unappealing’’, ‘’ for anorectic women’’

‘’casual chic’’ Colcci

‘’ Young’’

‘’ Too casual’’ and ‘’unappealing’’

Denny rose

‘‘Uninteresting’’ and ‘’tacky’’

‘’ Uninteresting’’

Just female

‘‘Elegant’’ and feminine’’

‘’ Very feminine’’

Wrangler

‘’ Cool’’ and ‘’ casual’’

‘’ Too young’’ and ‘’unappealing’’

Lee

‘’ Comfortable’’

‘’ Looks comfortable’’

Table 6.12 most frequent adjectives attributed by generation X and Y to local retailer brands

The selected brands that were used in the projection techniques fall under the category of best sellers. In order to gather perceptions towards local retailer brand offer this criterion (i.e. best seller brand choice) was relevant for this purpose. There was a general consistency in the adjectives attributed to the brand Denny Rose, which was cited as the most ‘’uninteresting’’ and ‘’tacky’’ brand by both generations. However, there was a different attitude between generation X and Y towards Hoss Intropia. Most of the participants from generation Y attributed a positive adjective to the brand, whereas generation X interviewees found it ‘’unappealing’’ and for ‘’anorectic women’’. The same happened to the brand Wrangler when the younger generation group perceived the brand as ‘’cool’’ and ‘’casual’’, while generation X considered ‘’too young and unappealing’’. This demonstrates that most of the brands sold in these local retailers are more appealing to a younger segment (generation Y) than an older age segment (generation X). This is consistent with the local retailers responses regarding their target consumer.

6.2.1.3.2 How do brands get generation X and Y attention? When asked how brands get their attention, both generation groups on each focus group acknowledged that merchandising display and brand advertising capture their attention:

Generation Y ‘’

Through

communication

their

Generation X brand

‘’ I would say ads and outdoors, I am very attentive to

(advertisements,

advertisement and usually outdoors catch my attention. I like to

outdoors and window display)’’

see the design, the colours used, etc. However, it doesn’t influence me to purchase the advertised clothes, I will probably go to the store and see the collection but it doesn’t make me buy it.’’

Table 6.13 comments from participants of each generation regarding to how brands capture their attention

This supports the argument by Waarts and Everdingen (2006) regarding the importance of branding and merchandising display to European fashion consumers. In order to explore the perception of consumers towards local retailer stores, projective techniques were used. Seven images of store interiors from both local retailers were shown and all participants were asked to write inside the bubbles their impressions of these interiors. Some of the key comments are presented in Table 6.15. Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ Poor light’’

‘’ Unattractive display of items, I wouldn’t enter in this

‘’ Even though the overall store is organized the

store’’

lightning could be better (the store looks very

‘’Looks clumsy’’

‘’shadowy’’) ’’ Table 6.14 comments from participants from each generation towards local retailer’s visuals

The participants were not impressed by local retailers indoor visuals as can be read from the comments. Only two respondents knew the stores but that did not change their perception, as their opinions were similar to the majority. In order to further explore the attitudes towards shopping in local retailers, participants were asked how they felt about shopping in these retailers and most of them expressed that the main reason for not going to these retailers was due to the fact that these looked very ‘’niche’’ and uninteresting as they prefer going to large fashion retailer chains due to their variety and affordable prices.

6.2.1.3.3 Importance of brands to each generation: Brand awareness The focus groups confirmed that generation X fashion consumers are less aware of fashion brands than generation Y consumers in Portugal. The older age segment

does not look at brands as an important source for trend information; instead they look at brands as a utility, whereas consumers from younger age groups perceive brands as a primary trend source Table 6.16 shows the key comments regarding consumers’ brand awareness. Generation X

Generation Y ‘’ Because brands are the main source of trend

‘’ They (brands) are important for me in terms of

information for me I think they are extremely

fulfilling my fashion needs. If I want a pair of jeans

important.’’

I go to this or that particular brand because I know that the brand always has quality jeans. ‘’

‘’ Without brands most of us wouldn’t know what is on trend! Social media and the media are not as close to us as fashion brands. ‘’

Table 6.15 Importance of fashion brands to each generation

This supports Harradine and Ross (2007) view which holds that different generations have different brand awareness, and the younger the generation the more aware they are about brands.

6.2.2 Most considerable influences on generation X and Y fashion purchases. The researcher attempted to establish whether reference groups, media, opinion leaders, celebrities and brands were the main influencing factors on the sample as proposed by Yang et al (2007). Expert interviews were conducted with fashion bloggers (please refer to Appendix 20, 21 and 22) in order to explore further insights regarding

these

external

influences.

Table

6.17

compares

three

different

perspectives (i.e. Y Consumers, X Consumers and Experts) regarding to main influences of fashion consumers in Portugal.

Expert interviews

Generation X

Generation Y

‘’ (…) TV may be the highest influence on fashion

‘’ Family, in this case

‘’ Friends influence me

consumers

my mother. I have an

in a positive way. For

communicates for a mainstream target. (…)

example of how family

example,

Generation

can

me.

friend of mine that once

influenced by digital media (blogs, magazines,

Recently I bought a pair

made a compliment on

etc.) because, as I said before, this generation is

of boots and I asked my

my clothes and I was

literally online all the time’’‘’

mother

from Y

generation

fashion

consumers

because are

influence

have

encouraged to try more

decide which pair to

clothes on the same

‘’ Media is a daily influence on Portuguese fashion

buy.

style’’

consumers, whether they are from a younger age

because

segment or a older one.’’

validate some aspects

‘’ The biggest influence

(e.g. how it fits)’’

for me is friends and

help

think she

is can

‘’ If you take as an example the generation Y

family

because

they

fashion market in Portugal, they wear all the same

are my inner circle and

things and if one person from his/her group of

near to me. These are

friends adopts a new trend, sooner or later

the people I tend to

everyone from that same group is doing the same

relate the most.’’

(…) Family, on the other hand, is influential to gen X because the older you get the more similar you are with your parents, especially your mother.’’ Table 6.16 response comparison between expert and consumer in depth interviews

The responses from fashion bloggers confirmed that media, brands and social media are indeed influential to fashion consumers in Portugal. However, both generation consumer responses from individual interviews suggested that their reference group or ‘’inner circle’’ is the most considerable influence. Family, friends and brands were considered as the highest influence on generation X interviewees, whereas friends and brands were the highest influence on generation Y interviewees. Media is considered to be a secondary influence for both generations, as it is seen as ‘’unavoidable’’ by both of them. One of generation Y participants referred to family as someone she ‘’ relates to’’ but not influential in her purchases. However, one of the participants from generation X stated that her mother is a significant influence on her purchase behaviour due to the fact that she values her mother’s opinion. This supports Dias (2003) and Leung et al (2002) discussion on fashion purchase influences of generation X consumers. Dias (2003) argues that consumes from an older generation usually feel more connected to their parents than younger generation groups (i.e. generation Y). As discussed (section 6.2.1.3.3) brands are relevant and influential on both generations fashion purchase behaviour. Table 6.18

summarises the most considerable influences of each generation taking into consideration all three perspectives (i.e. experts, local retailers and consumers).

Sample Generation X

Generation Y

Most considerable influences on fashion purchase •

Family, friends, brands are primary

•

Media is secondary influence

•

Friends, brands are primary influence

•

Media is secondary

Table 6.17 most considerable influences on generation X and Y fashion purchases

These findings from interviews and focus groups support the argument by Nayeem (2012) and Bravo et al (2006) when referring to reference groups as the primary influence on purchase behaviour. However, Bravo et al

(2006) argument is

contradictory to these findings because the research supports the idea that family is a significant influence on young consumers. Furthermore, these results are consistent with expert interviews and local retailers responses as well as Kulmala et al (2013) assertion that media, social media and brands are a secondary influence on purchase decisions. Overall, the opinions gathered from the experts and local retailers contributed with further comprehension of the importance of reference groups as primary influence on fashion trend adoption and purchase behaviour in both generations.

6.2.2.1 Fashion inspiration sources Only four interviewees (Group A) from the older generation group commented on finding fashion inspiration through their environment, media (e.g. TV) and fashion and lifestyle magazines. The other two (Group B) of the six interviewees from the same generation claimed that they do not have any particular ‘’inspirational tool’’ as they sporadically read magazines and rarely watch any fashion content through media. Please refer to table 6.19 where different responses were gathered in this generation group.

Group A

Group B

‘’ I would say maybe the media because it is the

’I don’t have a particular inspirational tool. Again, I

‘’nearest’’ influence, it is just around the corner

am not too connected with fashion and what is

and it is so easy to access that you don’t even

happening at the moment. I am not against

have time to decide if you want to see it or not.’’

fashion; I think it is just my personality. ‘’

‘’ Mainly from magazines and fashion blogs. I like

‘’I don’t usually read fashion magazines, blogs or

to see outfit suggestions and how to combine a

media for fashion inspiration so my answer on this

trend with what you have in your wardrobe. ‘’

is none. ‘

Table 6.18 Response comparison within participants of generation X

However, the findings from focus groups presented different results. The same question was employed and the same participants who claimed that they did not have any inspiration source responded differently. Table 6.20 compares the answers from the same group of participants that responded differently in each method used. Group B (focus group)

Group B (Individual interviews) ’I don’t have a particular inspirational tool. Again, I

‘’ I think brands have that effect on me. ‘’

am not too connected with fashion and what is happening at the moment. I am not against

‘’ I would say brands.’’

fashion; I think it is just my personality. ‘’ ‘’I don’t usually read fashion magazines, blogs or media for fashion inspiration so my answer on this is none. ‘

Table 6.19 Response comparison within participants from generation X when different methods were employed.

This suggests that the focus group attained its purpose of uncovering inner opinions (Saunders et al, 2009) that was not expressed through individual interviews. However, the younger age group appeared much more impressed by friends and social media. Fashion brand stores were often cited. Table 6.21 presents the key comments of generation regarding to this topic. ‘’ Social media, fashion brand stores, media and friends’’

Generation Y (responses from both

‘’ It is not that I am not interested in fashion is just

interviews and focus groups)

that I don’t go anywhere in particular to look for fashion inspiration. I like to go to the stores and see what is going on.’’

Table 6.20 main inspiration sources according to generation Y respondents

Overall, consumers from generation Y demonstrated that friends are their immediate environments for fashion inspiration. Of secondary importance they mentioned fashion brands, which they visit after gathering outfit ideas from their friends.

Regarding the use of fashion blogs as fashion inspiration, only one participant from each generation claimed that they follow and visit sporadically Portuguese and international fashion blogs. This contradicts most studies regarding generation Y and the frequent use of fashion blogs (Neeley, 2005; Lazarevic, 2012; Huang et al, 2012). The findings on the use of fashion brands, friends and magazines as reference groups for fashion inspiration particularly differ from the experts’ opinions who view social media and media as the main inspirational ‘’tools’’ for both generations, which leads to an inconsistent finding on these regards. The following table (table 6.22) summarises the main fashion inspiration sources according to each generation.

Sample

Fashion inspiration sources

Generation X

Fashion and lifestyle magazines, fashion brand stores

Generation Y

Friends and fashion brand stores

Table 6.21 Fashion inspiration sources for each generation

6.2.3 Choice criteria for fashion purchase Style and fit are the younger generation group’s main criteria when purchasing fashion. Furthermore, they are concerned about comfort when purchasing clothes and they refer to it as a consequence of fit. Individual interviews (please refer to Appendix 29 to 34) with generation X consumers revealed that style is the most important attribute when purchasing fashion. However, there was a discrepancy in the results because the most chosen attribute by the majority of generation X participants in the focus group was comfort. For the purposes of the research findings, both attributes were considered for generation X. Table 6.23 depicts key comments of each generation regarding choice criteria in fashion purchase. Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ Fit and comfort are associated because if it fits

‘’ Style is the first thing that either attracts me or

me it is comfortable’’

not.’’

‘’ Style is very personal and important for me I

‘’ Quality and comfort. I choose comfort. ‘’

have to love it’’ Style, comfort and fit Table 6.22 choice criteria when shopping for fashion.

Style and comfort

These results demonstrate similar purchase criteria between generation X and Y. As discussed by Dias (2003) and Watchravesringkan and Hodges (2010), the age and life stage of each consumer differs from one generation to another, reflecting their purchase criteria and, therefore, their purchase behaviour towards fashion. However, generation X and Y may have different purchase criteria but there are studies (Harradine et al, 2007) arguing whether older generations tend to emulate younger generations in order to appear younger. This is, indeed, reflected in their choice criteria behaviour (Bergh and Bearer, 2013).

6.3 Each generation perception of trend, the meaning of fashionable, and how that influences trend adoption behaviour This section considers objective 3 of the study: Objective 3 was:

To explore each generation perception of trend as well as the meaning of being fashion forward in order to understand how it influences trend adoption behaviour.

6.3.1 Generation X and Y’s interest in fashion Both generation group participants were interested in fashion. Each interviewee explained to what extent they were interested in fashion, giving their impressions, opinions, providing examples and expressing their feeling towards the subject. Table 6.24 summarises the key comments regarding to this topic.

Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ I think I have always been interested in fashion.

‘’ On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say 7. I enjoy

If I go to a store and I see new fashion trends I am

fashion, I am interested in it but I am not a victim.‘’

interested in trying and maybe purchase.’’ ‘’ I am not particularly too fond on following fashion ‘’ I usually like to read fashion magazines and

trends but I like to know what is happening and

share ideas with my friends. I don’t follow all

what is in and out.’’

fashion trends nor I am a fashion victim but I enjoy fashion in a moderate way.’’ Table 6.23 key comments of generation X and Y interest in fashion

6.3.2 Generation X and Y trend perception and the meaning of fashionable The main gathered trending terms describing fashion trends were words like ‘’newness’’, ‘’change’’, ‘’new style’’, and ‘’periods of time’’. Other less popular but equally interesting comments were ‘’mainstream’’ and ‘’social phenomenon’’. Both respondents from generation X and Y perceive trends as ‘’newness’’, seasonal and something ‘’viral’’ that they feel pressured to adhere to. Both age groups agreed that fashion trends only have meaning when they relate to them. Respondents from generation X also stressed on the fact that they don’t consider themselves trend followers or trendsetters. However, some consumers from generation Y perceive fashion trends as a ‘’established’’ rule of wearing something that you can mix with your own personal taste. The older generation group responded more hesitantly to this question than younger age groups. Table 6.25 shows the key comments regarding to this topic. Sample Generation X

Key comments of fashion trends perception ‘’ If trends are appealing to me they have a meaning. If not, I ignore them. Just because everyone is wearing yellow jackets does not mean I will do the same thing.’’ ‘’ The first impression for me about fashion trends is the now, what you should wear now. I don’t really relate to that.’’

Generation Y

‘’I think it does not have to do with the ‘’now’’ but with a mix of what you like and what is on trend. It is very adaptable because every individual knows how to wear a trend in his or her own way.’’ ‘’ Fashion trends mean newness.’’ ‘’ Everyone is using a certain pattern; therefore you should be doing the same.’’

Table 6.24 key comments on fashion trends perception.

Furthermore, both generations confirmed that is reasonably important to be on trend and commented how important it is to ‘’feel’’ good in the clothes they wear. Most participants argued that although they do not consider themselves followers they like to be informed about trends.

In order to explore each generation’s belief of fashion forwardness, questions regarding how fashionable individuals consider themselves were asked to both generation consumers. All of the participants considered themselves fashionable. Answers from generation Y participants revealed that, for these consumers, the

meaning of fashionable is related with the tendency to adopt or not a certain trend, which is in alignment with Ma et al (2012) view of the fashion forward concept. Participants from generation X express different opinions regarding how fashionable they are. Most of the respondents correlate fashion forwardness with how long it takes until they adhere to new fashion trends and only two respondents consider themselves moderately fashionable. Some examples of the comments regarding this subject are presented in table 6.26. Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ I don’t simply ignore what surrounds me I like to

‘’ I don’t consider myself to be very fashionable. I

know which trends are hot or not but not to the

enjoy wearing clothes but I haven’t changed my

point of being a fashion victim. I consider myself

style in years because I think fashion is too

moderately fashionable.’’

specific and since I rarely adhere to any new trend I prefer to say that I am not too open to fashion.’’

Table 6.25 key comments on fashion forwardness perception.

6.3.3. Each generation ‘’openness’’ to new fashion trends – Rogers (2003) adopter categorization. In order to understand each generation’s trend adoption behaviour, each consumer is placed into different adopter categories (Rogers, 2003). This was done through focus group questions. Participants from each generation were asked to individually choose a personal feature that best described their personality when adopting a trend. Table 6.27 and 6.28 present the findings of this section.

Generation X

Rogers’ category

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Eager to experiment

Early adopter

Eager to experiment

Early adopter

Skeptical

Late majority

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Eager to experiment

Early adopter

Table 6.26 Rogers’ adopter categories applied to generation X consumer sample (Source: Author’s own adapted from Rogers (2003))

The majority of generation X participants consider themselves ‘’eager to experiment’’ trends, which indicate that these individuals are categorized as early adopters, according to Rogers’s (2003) consumer adopter categories. The second most chosen feature is ‘’cautious or deliberate’’, which indicates that participants are

placed into the early majority category. Only one participant from generation X group considered herself to be ‘’skeptical’’ when adopting trends indicating that she belongs to the late majority category. Generation Y

Rogers’ category

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Venturesome

Innovator

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Cautious/deliberate

Early majority

Table 6.27 Rogers’ adopter categories applied to generation Y consumer sample (Source: Author’s own adapted from Rogers (2003))

In this generation group, the most cited feature was ‘’cautious or deliberate’’ and only one respondent considered herself to be ‘’venturesome’’ when adopting trends. These results indicate that most participants from generation Y group are in the early majority category in contrast with the ‘’venturesome’’ respondent, which is in the innovator category.

This categorization is applied to understand the overall fashion trend adoption openness of each generation group in study. Despite both generation groups expressing their interest in fashion, their openness can be ‘’measured’’ through the applied categories. Therefore, generation X falls into the category of early adopter, whereas the younger generation group is placed into the early majority category (please refer to Figure 6.1).

Gen X Innovator

Early adopter

More open to fashion

Gen Y Early majority

Late majority

Laggards

less open to fashion

Figure 6.1 Rogers’ innovativeness degree (Source: Author’s own adapted from Rogers (2003))

In terms of adopter categorization, the younger generation group results are consistent with the response given from one of the local retailers, when asked to define their consumer (generation Y) by how fashionable they are (early majority).

However, the other local retailer’s response was partially consistent with these findings because she defined her target consumer (generation X) as someone between the early adopter and early majority category.

The general findings, however, reveal that consumers from generation X are more open (i.e. more innovative) to fashion trends than consumers from generation Y. This can be explained through several interview responses when most consumers felt that they would adhere more to fashion trends if they had more purchase power. This argument is consistent with Goldsmith and Newell (1997), which associates price sensitivity with fashion innovativeness. Both authors argue that the more purchase power a consumer has the more risks he or she is willing to take in fashion purchase. This finding was, however, measured through different methods (i.e. questionnaire using Likert scales) in a quantitative study, which diverges from the nature of this study and the used methods. According to Agis et al (2010), due to economic constraints from the recession a decline in income has been prevalent in Portugal, resulting in more consumers spending the majority of their income in basic needs and that includes basic clothing pieces. Therefore, most consumers feel that they can pass on new trends preferring to purchase timeless pieces or clothes that can last from one season to another.

6.3.4 Each generation key influencers on trend adoption behaviour The researcher attempted to establish whether media, magazines, brands, celebrities, family, friends were the main influencers on trend adoption behaviour in Portuguese consumers from generation X and Y. The responses from focus groups confirmed that fashion brands are indeed influential to generation X consumers on their adoption behaviour as stated by Waarts and Everdingen (2006). However, the responses from generation Y consumers confirmed that friends, social media and brands are the main influencers on their trend adoption behaviour. The respondents from this generation commented the importance of brands in fashion trend awareness by referring to brands as ‘’ trendsetters’’. Regarding generation X, the overall attitude gathered towards fashion brands is related with the image fashion brands convey to consumers. Table 6.30 presents the key comments and influencers on trend adoption behaviour in each generation.

Key influencers on trend adoption

behaviour (Generation Y)

behaviour (Generation X)

‘’ Because they (brands) act as trendsetters. For

‘’ Sometimes you are reading a fashion magazine

example, high-end brands like Chanel or Dior they

or a lifestyle magazine and you see a particular

are trendsetters and, although you cannot afford

garment that you like and you think you might find

them you can go to Zara and grab something

in that particular brand store, this happens

similar and affordable.’’

because you associate a certain image to a brand. Thus, in my opinion brands are important because they enter into our lives and change our perceptions towards trends.’’

Brands, social media and friends

Brands

Table 6.28 Key influencers on trend adoption behaviour for each generation

6.3.5 The influence of personal values on trend adoption behaviour. According to Hofstede et al (2010), cultural dimension (i.e. IndividualismCollectivism) strongly influences consumers’ self image. Additionally, personal identity and values are expressed through consumer purchase choices (Nayeem, 2012). In order to assess whether self-image and personal values influence trend adoption behaviour, the same questions regarding values and self-image were asked to both generations (see Appendix 37 to 48). Table 6.31 depicts the most important personal values for each generation. Generation Y

Generation X

‘’ Individualism comes first for me because I

‘’ For me functionality comes first because I have

always buy clothes that I consider adaptable to my

to feel good in the clothes I wear and the least

personality’’

important thing for me is individualism. I say this because

when

was

teenager,

individualistic mattered for me but now that doesn’t matter to me. Individualism, functionality and sense of

Functionality, Bargain and Individualism

belonging Table 6.29 Personal values of each generation

The younger generation group responses shows that the majority of respondents value ‘‘individuality’’ the most and value ‘’sense of belonging’’ the least when buying and adopting fashion trends. This, however, contradicts Hofstede’s et al (2010) findings obtained from his model applied to Portugal. According to the author, Portugal is a collectivist society and that reflects on Portuguese consumer behaviour.

However, due to lack of studies regarding collectivist consumers and fashion trend adoption behaviour differences between generation X and Y, this aspect (i.e. generation Y fashion consumers trend adoption behaviour) cannot be confirmed or discarded. Nonetheless, Lin and Xia (2011) argue that generation Y demonstrate the need to develop their own individuality through their brand choices and the influence of their friend’s opinions. Furthermore, the brands they follow through social media also help them nurture that individuality. Given that the majority of generation Y participants consider sense of belonging as the least important value reinforces their need to develop individualism through their fashion purchase choices that reflect their trend adoption behaviour. The same question was employed to the older generation group confirmed that the majority considers ‘’functionality’’ as the most important value and ‘’sense of belonging’’ as the least important value when buying and adopting fashion trends. Once more, this contradicts with Hofstede’s et al (2010) applied model to Portugal. For generation X participants ‘’functionality’’ comes first, which is in the same vein with what has been discussed by Watchravesringkan and Hodges (2010), which refers that generation X consumers are driven by utilitarian need and usually buy clothes due to its comfort, whereas Y consumers are more influenced on purchasing clothes by the way these make them feel (i.e. hedonic needs). This is also supported by Dias (2003) argument, which holds that generation X main motivation to purchase fashion is functionality. This generation demonstrated more confidence on their self-identity. Most of them chose individualism as third or least important value. Given that most of the interviewees from generation X are busy women and fashion purchases are not the main priority due to their life stage, to adopt fashion trends that are compatible with their daily routine becomes fundamental.

6.4 The influence of opinion leaders on generation X and Y This section considers objective 4 of the study: Objective 4 was: To investigate to what extent and how opinion leaders influence consumers from different generations

Objective 4 was fulfilled through three individual interviews with fashion bloggers (can be found in Appendix 20 to 22) and consumer interviews and focus groups. Although ethics and privacy issues were considered, all interviewees allowed their names to be revealed.

6.4.1 Generation X and Y perception of fashion opinion leaders To understand how opinion leaders influence consumers from different generations, respondents from each generation were first asked to define their own meaning of fashion opinion leaders. The main gathered trending terms describing opinion leaders in fashion were words like ‘’expert’’, ‘’unique’’, ‘’inspirational’’, ‘’attentive’’ and ‘’highly informed’’. Other less popular but equally interesting comments were ‘’enablers’’, ‘’ too futile’’, ‘’volatile’’, ‘’self-centred’’ and ‘’innovators’’. The results reported from interviews with generation X consumers were split: three positive responses from participants revealed that they related with the subject, whilst others responded negatively to this question by saying that they were not aware of this subject or the purpose of being an opinion leader. However, the focus group reveal different perceptions of the same participants who responded negatively. Some the participants complemented their view by mentioning that they don’t consider fashion bloggers to be opinion leaders. The following table (table 6.32) compares different answers from the same participants when questioned about opinion leadership meaning in different research methods. Sample

Interview

Focus group

‘’ I don’t have a particular opinion about this subject;

‘’ It is someone that has

therefore I don’t have a clear definition for opinion

done

leaders that I could describe.’’

someone that everyone

history.

trusts, like Coco Chanel’’ ‘’ A fashion opinion leader is someone who is open

Generation X

minded, very informed, with a versatile personality. It

‘’

think

that

most

is also someone with a strong opinion about all

opinion leaders are not

perception of

influences (media, blogs, magazines) in fashion and

pretty or good-looking.

fashion opinion

conveys that in a simple way to the average

For me, the Portuguese

consumer. ‘’

designer Ana Salazar is

leaders

an opinion leader and look

certainly looking. ‘’ Table 6.30 Comparison of answers from the same respondents in different methods used

her! not

She

good

Regarding to generation Y participants, most of them responded positively to this question. Both interviews and focus group with this generation group revealed that they were more comfortable with the subject while defining their own meaning of fashion opinion leaders. Some of the participants complemented their view by referring that fashion opinion leaders are not trendsetters but trend diffusers. Table 6.33 presents generation Y key comments regarding this topic. Sample

Generation Y perception of

Interview

Focus group

‘’ An opinion leader in fashion has to be

‘’ It has to be a very

someone who is updated about everything

attentive person; it has

related with fashion. It is someone who is

to have a strong critical

an innovator and follows trends, for sure! ‘’

sense. Above all, it has

fashion opinion leaders

to be on top of the subject and have a deep knowledge

about

fashion.’’

Table 6.31 Comparison of answers from the same respondents in different methods used

For both generations, the overall perception of fashion opinion leaders is of someone who is highly involved and informed about fashion. Phau and Lo (2004) states that in the fashion context, opinion leaders are usually considered to be highly interested in fashion and fashion innovators. Cardoso et al (2010) argument also supports these findings when the researcher stress about opinion leaders being ordinary consumers within their social group characterized as socially active, appearance conscious and self-centred.

6.4.1.1 Which opinion leaders? When asked to generation X and Y respondents which opinion leaders they look to fashion trend inspiration, only two respondents from each generation answered positively to the question. The fact that four out of six participants of each generation did not consider any opinion leader in particular may be in alignment with Nayeem (2012) argument that states that in collectivist societies consumers are likely to first consult with their primary reference group and consider their opinion before purchasing, therefore opinion leadership belongs to the ‘’inner’’ circle.

Generation X consumers had no answer for this question justifying that they were not followers of any particular famous person. This group revealed to be more individual and not impressed by any celebrity in particular. This, however, is in line with what has been highlighted by Goldsmith and Clark (2008) regarding fashion consumer behaviour and opinion leader seeking. Another supportive argument of this finding is the one from Hofstede et al (2010), which refers to individualistic consumers and their constant need to continue building their individualism. The researcher also supports this aspect by referring to individualists as people who does not feel influenced by celebrities and media. However, the only two participants who responded positively this question considered their sister and the Portuguese socialite Vicky Fernandes as their fashion opinion leaders (see table 6.34). Knowing that generation X consumers were categorized as early adopters the overall findings of this subsection present contradictions. However, Rogers (2003) support these findings when referring to early adopters as the category of consumers that also follow other leaders (i.e. innovators), even though others perceive them to be opinion leaders. ‘’ I would consider the Portuguese socialite Vicky Fernandes. She is always well dressed and I feel inspired by the way she presents herself in any situation either on TV or in pictures taken by Generation X participants who

paparazzi. ‘’

indicated examples of opinion

‘’ I think that my sister, for example, is not an opinion leader but is

leaders

inspirational for me. She loves fashion and knows how to dress for any occasion. ‘’

Table 6.32 Answers from the only two participants from generation X

Nonetheless, the respondents from the younger generation group appeared much more impressed by celebrities and particularly by ‘’confident’’ women and fashion models. The findings from this generation group demonstrated a desire to identify with such women because they are perceived as ‘’smart, confident and beautiful’’. Again, only two participants responded positively (table 6.35).

‘’ I would consider Michelle Obama because she is very stylish but yet very discrete. She knows how to dress and at the same time be Generation Y participants who

the president’s wife.’’

indicated examples of opinion

‘’ Heidi Klum, Gisele Bundchen and Kerry Washington because of

leaders

the high visibility they have on media and magazines.’’

Table 6.33 Answers from the only two participants from generation Y

Table 6.36 summarizes the key features of a fashion opinion leader gathered from each consumer generation perception and the examples of fashion opinion leaders. Sample

Generation X

Fashion opinion leader perception (main features of a fashion opinion leader) • • •

Generation Y

• • •

Fashion opinion leader given examples

Someone highly informed about fashion. Someone who breathes and loves fashion. Self centred and obsessed with image.

• •

Vicky Fernandes, sister International and local Fashion designers.

Someone highly involved in fashion. Trendsetters and enablers. Knowledgeable person with strong opinion.

•

Heidi Klum, Bundchen, Washington. Michelle Obama.

•

Gisele Kerry

Table 6.34 Each generation opinion leader perception and given examples

6.4.1.2. Celebrities and their influence on trend perception Given the fact that opinion leaders can be considered in different levels (Rafferty, 2011) (i.e. celebrities, family and friends), questions regarding celebrities were used to project inner attitudes and feelings towards opinion leaders. Projective techniques were employed (please refer to Appendix 37 to 48) to each generation group with two images of international celebrities and one image of a local celebrity shopping (please refer to Appendix 14). All participants from each generation group were asked to look at the images and discuss whether they felt inspired or influenced by these celebrities to shop while expressing their emotions towards them.

In the older generation group (see Appendix 37 to 42), most of the participants recognized only two out the three celebrities shown. They did not relate with the style or the outfit of the three celebrities, especially with the celebrity in the Image 2. The only aspect that appealed to them was the brand presented in Image 3 (see first

quote in table 3.67). One of the participants shared her view while discussing how the images shown reminded her of paparazzi pictures which she perceives as ‘’unappealing’’. The celebrity presented on Image 2 (local TV celebrity) had an overall negative response regarding her style and influence on all participants. In disagreement with most of the group was one of the participants (second quote in table 3.67), which mentioned that the celebrity in question inspired her and was influential on her trend perception.

Image 1. Irina Shayk

Image 2. Rita Pereira

Image 3. Blake Lively

‘’ I like the celebrity in picture no.2 she is always very well dressed and I love her outfits! It does not have to do with her body or her eyes. What I like the most about her is her casual style. Regarding to the other celebrities I think Generation X attitudes towards

that they are also very casual and trendy but the only thing that catches my attention is the Chanel box.’’

celebrities ‘’I like the celebrity in picture no.2 she is always very well dressed and I love her outfits! (…) What I like the most about her is her casual style. ’’ Table 6.35 Responses of generation X towards images of celebrities shopping

The younger generation group (see Appendix 43 to 48) recognized all celebrities shown. However, they were more consistent in their attitudes towards the celebrity images, in comparison to the older generation group. Again, celebrity in image no.2 was the only celebrity considered by all participants as not ‘’trendy’’. All of the participants agreed that they did not like or felt uninfluenced by celebrities, unless they related to them. One of the participants commented that celebrity no.3 was trendy while expressing the desire of owning luxury brands like Chanel. Table 6.38 summarises the key findings regarding each generation attitudes towards the shown celebrities.

Sample Generation X

Generation Y

Celebrity no.1

Celebrity no.2

Celebrity no.3

- Dislike the style of the

- Only one participant relates

- Chanel packaging is the

celebrity

to this celebrity and likes her

only ‘’eye catching’’

- No opinion towards the

outfit.

aspect.

celebrity.

- ‘‘Not trendy’’ was the

- No expression of desire

overall opinion.

towards the shown brand.

-Celebrity is ‘’gorgeous‘’

- Dislike the overall style and

- Some participants like

- Dislike the style and outfit

outfit of celebrity.

the style and the outfit. -

of the celebrity.

- ‘‘Not trendy’’ was the

Clear expression of desire

overall opinion.

towards luxury shown brand.

Table 6.36 Responses from projection techniques with celebrities.

To gather more insights on whether celebrities are opinion leaders or not, the researcher asked each participant, through individual interviews, who would they consider to be a celebrity fashion icon. The results are presented in the table 6.39 as it follows. Sample

Main cited celebrity fashion icons

Generation X

Carolina Herrera, Hollywood actresses from the 50’s and 60´s, portuguese celebrity Liliana Campos (generation X)

Generation Y

Catherina Zeta Jones, Kate Middleton, Heidi Klum, Cate Blanchett, Meryl Streep, Sienna Miller, Kate Beckingsale and Brazilian actresses from soap operas (e.g. Carolina Dickman)

Table 6.37 Each generation celebrity fashion icons.

As for generation X only half of the respondents gave examples of their celebrity fashion icons and the other half claimed that they did not have any fashion icon. As for generation Y only one participant gave no answer to the this question, whilst the others gave examples of Hollywood celebrities and Brazilian soap opera actresses as their fashion icons. The results reveal that generation X consumers either relate to celebrities from the same generation as them or designers and fashion periods, whereas generation Y consumers identify with Hollywood and TV actresses. These findings also support the experts’ opinions, which are presented in table 6.40.

Expert A ‘’I would say Maria Guedes and the portuguese model Joana Freitas. ‘’

Expert B

Expert C

‘’ Some TV actresses from younger generations are a good example of this. Due to their large visibility, they are in every TV series and soap opera everyone sees them. I don’t personally follow them but I consider them important celebrities that may influence trend adoption in Portugal.’’

‘’ In Portugal, I would consider again Vicky Fernandes, Raquel Prates, Maria Guedes and Victoria Guerra. The latter is always very well dressed and is the youngest from all mentioned celebrities. I relate to Victoria Guerra because I think she has the ability to pull anything in such a sophisticated way. ‘’

Table 6.38 Expert key comments on celebrities in Portugal

The findings in this section provide useful insights regarding Portuguese fashion consumers fashion opinion leaders. Both consumer and expert interviews mentioned opinion leaders from Television (e.g. Brazilian Soap Operas), which provides a different perspective of the perception of fashion opinion leaders. Moreover, an important study that supports these findings is the research by Cardoso et al (2010) regarding the influence of Television on fashion consumption behaviour in Portugal. This is supported by the argument of Serralvo et al (2010) when the researcher discusses the influence of television on Brazilian consumer purchase behaviour. Even though this study was conducted with Brazilian consumers it may be applicable to this research due to cultural similarities. Besides, according to Hofstede et al (2010) model, Brazil is considered a Collectivist country, which reinforces the cultural similarity between the two countries.

6.4.2 The influence of fashion opinion leaders on each generation trend perception and adoption behaviour In order to obtain more insight regarding the influence of opinion leaders on each generation, participants from each group were asked, through individual interviews and focus groups, whether they felt influenced by fashion opinion leaders when purchasing clothes. Most participants from generation X claimed that fashion opinion leaders do not influence them on buying clothes. Furthermore, they mentioned that they are aware fashion opinion leaders have a subsequential impact on fashion purchase because they play an important role in ‘’defining’’ fashion trends. As for the younger generation group, interviewees expressed that fashion opinion leaders do influence them when purchasing fashion. However, only two respondents

did not consider fashion opinion leaders to be influential when buying clothes and shared the same opinion previously stated by the older generation group.

The findings from expert interviews (i.e. fashion bloggers) were rather inconsistent with these results. Fashion bloggers consider local TV celebrities to be the most important influence in Portugal due to their influence and visibility. Of secondary importance the experts mentioned fashion bloggers and models as the people that influence trend adoption behaviour in Portugal. When asked if celebrities had an impact on fashion consumer purchase and trend adoption, most of the bloggers mentioned that celebrities seen on media are influential to both generations in Portugal. However, one of the bloggers stated that celebrities are perceived as people wearing expensive outfits and brands to most consumers; therefore, they see them as an inspiration rather than an influence to buy. Table 6.41 depicts key comments regarding the importance and the influence of celebrities on fashion consumers in Portugal.

Expert

Do celebrities they have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour?

interviewees Fashion Blogger A ‘’ Yes. Mainly because fashion trends come from television actresses, if some of them start to wear a certain coat or a pair of sunglasses you see everyone copying it. It is almost an immediate process in Portugal.’’ Fashion Blogger B ‘’ I don’t think so. Although they can be inspirational when someone is reading about them in magazines I think that most people look at them and feel that what they are wearing is expensive and, because of that, not buy it. It is not about purchase power because you see wealthy people with no taste in fashion; I feel that it is about personal taste and each individual aesthetic notion. Celebrities are inspirational in Portugal but they don’t have a direct impact on fashion purchase behaviour.’’

Fashion Blogger C ‘’ Yes, because when a celebrity wears a piece of clothing or adopts a new trend that piece of clothing or trend becomes extremely desirable.’’ Table 6.39 key comments of fashion bloggers regarding the impact of celebrities in purchase.

Table 6.42 summarizes all the key findings of this chapter section.

Sample Generation X

Considered opinion leaders

Fashion opinion leaders influence

- Fashion designers,

- Subsequential influence

- 50’s and 60’s fashion period, - TV

- Consumers see these opinion leaders

celebrities from same or older

as an inspiration source.

generations Generation Y

- Hollywood celebrities

- Direct influence on purchase and trend

- TV actresses

adoption behaviour.

- Fashion models.

- Consumers see these opinion leaders as an inspiration source.

Table 6.40 Key findings of objective four.

The findings presented above, reveal that consumers from generation X prefer to follow timeless trends and styles and this is demonstrated through their choices of opinion leaders (e.g. 50’s and 60’s fashion periods). Furthermore, these findings are coherent with the study of Borland and Akram (2007), which refer that the perception of celebrity influence tends to modify in older age consumer segments as they grow older and, therefore, this may be the reason why generation X consumers consider fashion periods instead of Hollywood celebrities as their fashion influence. Even though consumers from generation Y referred that they do not consider themselves ‘’fashion victims’’ they tend to be more curious and attentive about trends than the generation X participants. This, however, is consistent with Bakewell and Mitchell (2003) findings concerning generation Y female consumers and influence on fashion behaviour.

6.5 The relationship between generational and cultural backgrounds and fashion trend adoption and diffusion. This section considers objective 5 of the study: Objective 5 was: To establish a relationship between generational and cultural backgrounds and fashion trend adoption and diffusion

6.5.1 Cultural and generational aspects influencing trend adoption behaviour In order to obtain further insights that would support the research questions from objective 5, questions regarding self-image, cultural values and the importance of reference groups when purchasing clothes were asked through consumer focus

groups (Appendix 35 and 36) and expert interviews (Appendix 20 to 22). The responses from both generational groups were consistent with experts’ view that cultural values influence trend adoption behaviour. The experts’ believe that personal values, beliefs, reference groups, and life path influence both generations. They also agreed that these aspects are definitely affected by the cultural context and generation they belong to. These findings are presented in table 6.43. Expert A

‘’ Most people from both generations don’t take risks on trying new trends and I feel that it has to do with their values and beliefs background, their family and friends, your lifestyle, growing path, education, etc. These are all influences that make you what you are today and it is a reflection of your openness to fashion. ‘’

Expert B

Portuguese female fashion consumers have been changing the way they perceive trends. They are less afraid and are more enthusiastic to try new upcoming trends.

Expert C

‘’ (…) the social context in which a consumer is placed in have a great influence on his or her behaviour I feel that the main influence comes from within each female consumer. By this I mean, personality and identity. (…) Women want to feel good and want to show others that they are confortable in the clothes she chose to wear, whether these are trendy or not. Having said this, trend adoption behaviour’’

Table 6.41 Experts’ insightful comments on portuguese fashion consumer’s motivations and influences

The younger generation group demonstrated that they rely on family and friends’ opinions when purchasing for clothes. Participants from this generation expressed that the inner circle is influential on their purchase decision but they are not dependent on their opinions in order to decide and purchase. However, when asked if friends and family opinions affected their purchase behaviour, participants from the generation X answered negatively because they claim that they ‘’shop alone and, therefore, there is no influence of others’ opinions’’. As previously discussed, there were only two participants from this group that felt that family and friend’s opinions were important for them on this regard.

Both generation groups agreed that the clothes they wear reflect their personal taste, personality, their ‘’mood’’ and the time and effort they put on an outfit. This is in alignment with Azevedo et al (2008) and Park-Poaps et al

(2010) arguments

regarding usage of clothing as an expression of the self. Furthermore, depending on whom they are surrounded by (i.e. workplace and co-workers) respondents from both generations agreed that they wear different clothes based on the perceived

expectations of others. These findings are consistent with Hofstede et al (2010) view, which hold that Portuguese consumers self-image is defined in terms of ‘’we’’ rather then ‘’I’’ as they seek to blend in social groups (e.g. workplace). Nayeem’s (2010) argument is also relevant for these findings because it holds that collectivist consumers are likely to be influenced by reference groups (i.e. co-workers) when buying for fashion. Moreover, this is in agreement with Reed (2012) view, which holds that part of one’s self image is related with the social and cultural context they are inserted in. Therefore, younger generation respondents wear clothes to project a certain image to others as they value others’ opinions, especially in the work environment. Nonetheless, generation X participants demonstrated more confidence in their image. Most of them felt less need to adjust their clothing choices in order to belong to a group regardless the environment they are placed into. All participants from generation X claimed that they would not judge a friend according to the way that he/she is dressed. In contrast, generation Y respondents commented that they would give their opinion in a constructive way and only if asked.

6.5.2 How trend adoption behaviour defines each generation and their openness to fashion? Furthermore, there was a general consistency from the expert and local retailer’s responses regarding Portuguese consumers fashion trend adoption and purchase behaviour. These findings were consistent with the responses gathered from individual consumer interviews and focus groups. In order to better understand how trend adoption behaviour defines consumers from different generations in terms of their openness to fashion trends, table 5.26 brings all strands of this chapter together, summarizing the main findings from interviews with experts, retailers, consumers and focus groups.

Main influences of trend adoption and purchase behaviour on both generations

Sample

Differences of purchase and adoption behaviour

- Social context

Generation

fashion consumers

Even though they are not

experiment due to their

as attentive and curious

purchase power;

about

eager

Value

their

own

this

generation

individualism and their

generation falls into the

background)

inner

early adopter category.

defines

Personality

circle

opinions

(e.g. family); and

Clothes

This is mainly due to their and

trends

higher

purchase

power

have to be ‘’functional’’

that allows them to take

(i.e. functionality)

more risks on fashion

identity

trends

- Life path (generational purchase behaviour

Generation

Openness to fashion trends (Roger’s adopter categories)

trends. - Although they consider

This generation falls into

themselves

the

open

category

Early

- Beliefs and Personal

fashion

values (e.g. sense of

consider

purchase

individualism is a valuable

membership) dominate in

power as an important

personal aspect for this

both generations

factor

generation they tend to

fashion consumers

trends

they

trend

majority.

Although

adoption.

adopt trends according to

- For them it is important

their

- Reference groups (i.e.

lifestyle. However, due to

family, friends and co-

however, they feel that

their

workers)

their

individualistic,

lower

purchase

opinions

power

their

clothing

seems to take less risks

choices. Clothes

this

and

friend’s

impact -

personality

generation

on trying new fashion and

trends

trends)

have to emphasize their personality; (i.e. individualism) Table 6.42 Main findings on trend adoption behaviour and how it defines each generation in terms of their openness to fashion trends.

CHAPTER VII - CONCLUSION

6.1 Introduction The purpose of the current study was to explore how fashion trends are diffused and adopted throughout consumers from different generations (X and Y) in Portugal. This paper presented primary and secondary research correlating the relationship between cultural and generational backgrounds and fashion trend adoption behaviour in order to explore each generationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s consumer attitudes, perceptions and purchase intentions towards fashion trends in Portugal. This conclusion chapter will revisit aims and objectives in order to evaluate to what extent they have been met. It will also present several limitations derived from the research findings. Finally, it will discuss the knowledge gained and how it contributes to academic and industry fields. A number of important implications for future research will be discussed and presented.

6.2 Revisiting aim and objectives 6.2.1 Local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends Five objectives guided this dissertation. The first objective of this study regards the fashion retail market in Portugal and, particularly, the local independent retailing sector, which is a prevalent retail format that is still resilient regardless of successful leading large high street retailer brands (i.e. Inditex group) in the Portuguese fashion retail market. This objective was emphasised through the literature review providing a general overview of the retail market in Portugal (Mintel, 2012; Agis et al 2010) and the positioning of this retailer format. Furthermore, the history and importance of street shopping in Portugal was investigated through the literature review in order to understand the provenience of these retailers (Ramos, 2003; Azevedo, 2008). These findings further support the idea that Portuguese consumers purchase behaviour is particularly brand led (Almeida et al, 2011; LourenĂ§o, 2005; Agis, 2012) as they prefer to shop in larger retailer formats. Primary research contributed to knowledge gained in these regards. The in depth interviews to which local retailer brands emphasized their exclusive international brand offer that appeals to consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; brand purchase motivation. The interviews also stressed the fact that they target

consumers from a young age (generation Y) even though their regular customers are older (generation X). The opportunities and challenges of marketing to consumers from generation X and Y in Portugal were also mentioned and identified as important in order to attract and target more consumers to their stores.

6.2.2 How key influencers of each generation and their trend perception affect consumer purchase behaviour and trend adoption behaviour Moving on to the second and third objective, consumer motivations and purchase intentions become relevant issues to explore and discuss. Both objectives explored fashion consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; key influences impacting fashion purchase behaviour and perceptions towards fashion trends to the extent of investigate each generationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trend adoption and purchase behaviour. Furthermore, important studies addressing generational backgrounds and fashion purchase (Dias, 2003; Leung et al 2002) were taken into account in order to address the overall aim of this dissertation. However, most of these studies are only supportive of the undertaken research to a certain extent because these only refer to branding to age segments (Phau and Lo, 2004; Harradine and Ross, 2007) and the purpose was to investigate whether generational and cultural background influence trend perception and adoption in Portugal. Several studies reviewed in this research, however, conflict with this research due to the fact that most of these tend to focus on marketing to age segments in other countries (USA and China) and few researchers have been able to draw any research into generational and cultural backgrounds affecting attitudes and perceptions towards fashion trends in Europe. Examples of supportive studies are Cardoso et al (2010) and Dias (2003). The first study profiles consumers according to their fashion innovativeness and the second study provides information regarding consumer behaviour and motivations according to different generations of consumers, which is in line with the overall purpose of this dissertation. Both studies provided supportive theory for the third, fourth and fifth objectives of this dissertation while helping to built questions for primary research. Given that, these objectives aimed to investigate how open to fashion Portuguese consumers are (objective four and five) and the influence of fashion opinion leaders on both generations (objective three) it was important to gain a good understanding of the consumer self concept (Borland and Akram, 2007; Ma et al, 2012), cultural influences on behaviour (Hofstede et al 2010; Seock et al, 2008; Nayeem, 2012), trend perception and adoption behaviour (Rogers, 2003; Gladwell, 2000), and the

importance of reference groups and opinion leaders in fashion purchase behaviour (Goldsmith and Clark, 2008; Kim et al 2007). All of these aspects were also confirmed by primary research as inherent to fashion consumers and motivational factors influencing trend adoption behaviour.

6.2.3 How cultural and generational backgrounds influence consumer openness to fashion trends Derived from the literature review, this study identified relevant models regarding consumer cultural influences on purchase behaviour (Hofstede et al 2010) and trend adoption behaviour and categorization (Rogers, 2003). These were tested through primary research questions in order to gather insights beyond findings from the literature review. Moreover, influential factors such as reference groups and fashion brands were the most acknowledged by respondents. These influences were also confirmed by the literature review (Nayeem, 2012) as the main influences on purchase behaviour of collectivist consumers. Additionally, the in depth interviews and projection techniques emphasized these variables as important influencers of their attitudes and perceptions towards fashion trend purchase. Primary research contributes to the understanding of the existing literature by adding that fashion opinion leaders are not as influential to fashion Portuguese consumers as they are in other countries (Phau and Lo, 2004; Dias, 2003). Furthermore, existing literature advocate that younger consumer generations tend to be more innovative and open to fashion than older generations (Lin and Xia, 2011). Primary research contradicts these findings underpinned by the fact that respondents from generation X demonstrated more openness to fashion than the younger generation. Moreover, individual interviews demonstrate that consumers from both generations are equally interested and open to fashion but they may feel constrained by their purchase power. This is more predominant in the younger generation, which has less purchase power than older generation consumers in Portugal. While previous research discusses the relationship between different generation consumers and fashion purchase behaviour, limited existing literature has emphasized the influence of purchase power on fashion innovativeness (Goldsmith and Newell, 1997). Accordingly, the influence of purchase power has been evidenced through primary research with respondentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; attitudes and motivations towards fashion trends.

6.5 Limitations A number of important limitations can be considered while attempting to answer the aim of this dissertation. Both methodological and study limitations were considered. Firstly, the research used a small sample of each generation consumers that is not an accurate representation of all female fashion consumers from generation X and Y in Portugal. However, a possible limitation of this aspect is the inability to generalize, which is appropriate to the nature of this study. Secondly, respondents had to choose a personal feature (skeptical, venturesome, traditional, cautious, and eager to experiment) in order to describe their personality when adopting a trend. Consequently, the results from this question presented a limitation due to the fact that each participant response was subject to their own understanding of each feature. Thirdly, due to the qualitative nature and limited sample of this research, it was not possible to generalize the study to an overall purchase and adoption behaviour of Portuguese fashion consumers. Fourthly, this study focused on local retailer brands meeting the latest fashion trends in an attempt to understand, firstly, if fashion consumers shop in these retailers for that purpose and, secondly, to explore their purchase attitudes and motivations towards this retailer format. However, very few consumers shop in these retailers and prefer to purchase fashion trends in larger retailers such as Zara or Mango. Given that most of the respondents from generation Y regarded local retailers as very ‘’niche’’ and inaccessible preferring to shop in other retailer brands, this may be due to the fact that they have different expectations and attitudes towards larger retailers. Thus, consumers have preconceived ideas towards local retailer brands, which limits this research to very restricted opinions and views. Fifthly, a longitudinal study may have been considered if a different time allowance was given. The research correlates generational and cultural consumer backgrounds with fashion purchase behaviour; therefore, a longitudinal study using observation methods could have been suitable for this purpose. Nonetheless, the research gap of this dissertation emphasized an overall comprehension of fashion consumer purchase and adoption behaviour towards fashion trend in Portugal, which is valuable because it provides insights to the fashion industry in Portugal and to all fashion marketers interested in targeting Portuguese fashion consumers from these generation segments.

6.6 Contributions to academic and management fields The current findings of this study add to a growing body of literature on generational studies and fashion purchase behaviour. This dissertation has shown that Portuguese fashion consumers do not purchase for fashion trends in local retailer brands and are more likely to shop in larger retailer brands. This implies that Portuguese consumers from both generations purchase motivations and intentions are brand and retail format led. Nevertheless, it was evidenced that both consumer generation segments consider themselves fashionable but to a certain extent. To be trendy and purchase fashion trends is not regarded as a priority; therefore, they prefer to adapt their clothing choices by always being consistent with their personality. The study has also shown that Hofstedeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collectivism dimension may reflect consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; fashion purchase behaviour, which makes a noteworthy contribution to this subject on the academic field. The empirical findings in this study provide a new understanding of how different consumer generations have different purchase and adoption behaviour in fashion, as it will serve as a base for future case studies concerning the entering of fashion brands into collectivist societies. Lastly, the fact that cultural and generational influences are identified as influential on purchase behaviour it, therefore, assists in the understanding of the role of reference groups

and

fashion

brand

perception

Portuguese

fashion

consumers.

Accordingly, fashion-marketing communicators can benefit from this by implementing suitable marketing strategies that target collectivist consumers. Furthermore, marketing efforts should be done in order to boost fashion advertising in magazines and television and, therefore, increase fashion trend awareness among Portuguese fashion consumers.

6.8 Recommendations for future research As this research concluded, the lower or higher ability of purchasing for fashion trends is dependent on the each consumer purchase power. This applies, in particular, to the younger generation. Further work needs to be done to establish whether openness to fashion is influenced by purchase power amongst Portuguese fashion consumers. This issue could be explored in further research by using a larger and more geographically dispersed sample to gather a more accurate picture of Portuguese consumers from both generations and assess their openness to fashion influences and constraints.

Moreover, primary research provided insights regarding consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; retailer brand choices, which indicated that it was not possible to establish a relationship between each generation consumer sample and local retailer brands in Portugal. The issue of fashion consumers in Portugal and their brand purchase motivations and intentions is an intriguing one that could be usefully explored in further research. Hence, a further study could profile fashion consumers that shop in local retailer brands for fashion trends in order to understand the underlying motivations and attitudes that lead them to purchase in these stores. Moreover, these findings also suggest that the local retailer sector in Portugal should be making marketing efforts to shift their strategies in order to increase the focus on their target consumers. Lastly, issues of consumer perceptions towards fashion are still existent. Many Portuguese consumers regard fashion negatively as a futile interest, therefore, showing preconceived ideas and stigmas around fashion trends, thus future research could explore this matter and look into how fashion brands can approach Portuguese consumers and enable them to be more open to fashion. Â

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APPENDICES

APPENDICES Appendix

The

Trend

Hunter's

closet

Facebook

page

(source:

page

(source:

page

(source:

http://www.thetrendhunterscloset.com/pt)

Appendix

The

Trend

Hunter's

closet

Instagram

http://www.thetrendhunterscloset.com/pt)

Appendix

The

Trend

Hunter's

closet

http://www.thetrendhunterscloset.com/pt)

Appendix 4 - Trend Hunter's closet online store (source: http://www.thetrendhunterscloset.com/pt)

Appendix 5 - Trend Hunter's closet online store (source: http://www.thetrendhunterscloset.com/pt)

Appendix 6 - Celebrity endorsement in Just Cavalli campaign(Source: www.lux.iol.pt)

Appendix 7 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Local retailers key topics and interview template Local retailers key topics and interview questions Demographics and opening questions Who is your target consumer? Can you please describe them? How would you define your store? How many stores do you have? Which locations? Why? How important is the fashion consumer for your store? Why? How significant is fashion retail within Portugal? Target consumer and latest trend information sources What is important to your target consumer? (Fashion, price, quality, fit, etc.) How important is the latest fashion trends to your consumer? How do you meet these? What is the main source of information for latest fashion trends? If you had to define your consumer by generation, would they be x or y (define each)? Why? If you had to define your consumer by how fashionable they are, would they be innovators, laggards, etc. (explain the meaning of these terms)? Brand offer and communication to target consumer How do you think your retail store differentiates itself from the competitors? What kind of brands do you offer? Why mix of international and local brands? If your offer is mainly international brands, why? How do you ensure that your offer follows the latest fashion trends? Where do you find inspiration? (Blogs, magazines, celebrities, etc.) Why? What are your best selling brands? Why? What social media platforms do you use and why? Opportunities and challenges of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers What are the opportunities of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? How do you maximize them? What are the challenges of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? How do you overcome those? Are there any differences in fashion consumption between younger age groups and older age groups? What differences? Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time. Â

Appendix 8 – Bloggers key topics and interview template Bloggers key topics and interview questions Demographics and opening questions Age Occupation Level of fashion involvement and opinion leadership perception How interested are you in fashion? How do you become aware of fashion trends? How important is for you to be up to date with new fashion trends? Do you read other Portuguese fashion blogs? If so, which ones? How do you define a fashion opinion leader? What generation/age would they be? Why? External influences Which fashion opinion leaders are most important in Portugal? Why? What role do opinion leaders play on fashion trend adoption and diffusion in Portugal? Which celebrities are most important in Portugal? Why? Do celebrities have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour? How? What is your opinion about reference groups (define reference groups) in terms of how these impacts on fashion trend adoption behaviour? Do you think media (music, ads, blogs, magazines, etc.) plays a great role on trend adoption and diffusion? Why? Do fashion brands influence consumers on their purchase behaviour? Which ones? Why? Do cultural values influence Portuguese fashion consumers on their fashion trend adoption behaviour? From all the mentioned influences (brands, media, celebrities, reference groups, opinion leaders, etc.), which one would you rate as having the highest influence on fashion consumers in Portugal? Why? Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

Appendix 9 – Consumer key topics and interview template Consumer’s key topics and interview questions Demographics and opening questions Age Occupation Fashion involvement and trend perception How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? How often do you buy clothing? How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? Purchase and adoption behaviour, and self perception What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? Which fashion brands do you wish to own? Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? (Contextualization with Hofstede) Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? (Contextualization with Hofstede) Key influences on trend adoption How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why? Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? (Contextualization with Hofstede) Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

Appendix 10 – Consumer key topics and focus groups template Consumer’s key topics and focus groups questions Demographics and opening questions Age Occupation Fashion involvement and trend perception What does it mean to be on trend? Do you consider yourself fashionable? How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? How important is for you to be on trend? Purchase and adoption behaviour in fashion Do you shop alone or with others for fashion? If latter, with whom? (Contextualization with Hofstede) What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, durability, price, quality, fit or comfort) What do you think the way you dress says about yourself? Skeptical Venturesome Traditional Cautious Eager to experiment Please choose one personal feature that best describes your individual personality when adopting a trend and write down in a paper. (See appendix for personal feature meanings) (Rogers’ categorization) Self-perception (projection techniques – see appendix for shown images) Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 2). These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and with family. Could you please indicate which ones you find trendy/boring/innovative? Explain. (Rogers’ categorization) Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 3). These are three different images of celebrities shopping. Could you please indicate which ones you find trendy/boring/innovative? Explain. (Rogers’ categorization) Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 4). These are four different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from these stores? Why? Please take a look at the following images (see appendix 5). These are four different images of fashion brands (selected brands from local retailers). Could you please tell me the first impressions that you get from these brands? Why? Please consider these three personal values when buying fashion (i.e. sense of belonging, individualistic, functionality, bargain shopper, etc.) and rank each one of them in order of importance, from

the most important value through the least important value when buying fashion.

(Contextualization with Hofstede)

Key Influencers on trend adoption Who do you look to for fashion ideas the most? (Family, friends, brands, social media, celebrities, magazines, media) What blogs do you look at for trend information? How often? Which magazines do you look at for trend information? How often? How important are brands to you? Why? How do brands usually get your attention? How important are friends and family when deciding which clothes to buy? Why? How would you define fashion opinion leaders? To what extent do opinion leaders influence your trend perception? Why? Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time

Appendix 11 - Personal features when adopting trends •

Venturesome= innovator

•

Eager to experiment= early adopter

•

Deliberate/ cautious= early majority

•

Skeptical= late majority

•

Traditional/hesitant= laggards

Appendix 12 - Images of consumers shopping for clothes

Shopping with family

Shopping with friends

Shopping alone

Appendix 13 – Brands Images

1. HOSS INTROPIA

3. DENNY ROSE

6. WRANGLER

2. COLCCI

4 and 5. JUST FEMALE

7. LEE

Appendix 14 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Images of Celebrities 1. Irina Shayk

2. Rita Pereira

3. Blake Lively

Appendix 15 – Local retailer visuals Appendix 16 - GLOSSY

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Appendix 17 – THE TREND HUNTER’S CLOSET

Image 1

Image 2

Image 3

Image 4

Appendix 18 - The trend hunter’s closet transcript Interview with the trend hunter’s closet – Rita Godinho (store manager) Who is your target consumer? Can you please describe them? Initially, when we opened the store we wanted to target all age segments (18- 55) because we used to sell in store more designer brands like Missoni, Valentino, Gianfranco Ferre and Just Female, which is a brand that we still have and is targeted to a younger segment. I think we don’t have a particular segment that we aim to target; our usual customers are either Portuguese or foreigners from all ages. How would you define your store? I would define ‘’the Trend Hunter’s closet’’ as a trendy, urban, and very casual store. How many stores do you have? If none, do you plan to expand? No we don’t. But we have plans to expand our store physically as we only offer womenswear we are planning to have menswear brands in store. Why this location? The store’s owner found this location to be the best due to rent issues, as you know in Lisbon is quite difficult to have a clothing shop anywhere unless you find an affordable place to establish your business. In addition to this, the store is located in a cool and hipster area of Lisbon that is mentioned in many tourism guides and, obviously, this attracts many different people to our store. How important is the fashion consumer for your store? Why? I believe that our store has a very unique offer if a consumer is looking for something different or unconventional he/she will find it here. Most of the brands in store ‘’attract’’ them to walk in. We have plenty of customers walking in and saying that our store is very ‘’out of the box’’ regarding our offer. I feel that the average fashion consumer in Portugal may not be open to this type of clothing but, surprisingly, I have been seeing more and more Portuguese customers walking in. Obviously, they usually buy the more simple clothing lines, but at least they are trying! I am not saying we are better than bigger businesses such as Zara or Mango, I just think that if someone is looking for a piece of clothing that no one else has this is the place to shop. How significant is fashion retail within Portugal? Unfortunately, from what I can perceive I think that fashion retail is a very little significant in Portugal. Medium and small fashion retail businesses like this one are highly concentrated in Lisbon. I personally know very few retailers that are similar to this concept (multi brand retail) some of them include Boutique do Rio, Tendências and in downtown area but I still think there is not enough retailers of this format to the point of being significant. And local retailers? I don’t have a clear notion on that but I would have to say that local retailers are part of a cultural thing in Portugal. Street commerce has been around for so long and local retailers are part of it. Despite this being a difficult period for economic growth, there has been an emergence of new clothing retailers trying to offer the best variety of brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Portugal. And I think that is what we expect with our store and retail business. What is important to your target consumer? (Fashion, price, quality, fit, etc.) It depends on the consumer. If you take, for example, our regular customers (portuguese and foreigners) you see the Portuguese customer looking for something affordable (price) and as for the foreigner customer price doesn’t matter. I think it has to do with the customer attitude towards purchase decision. We see this happening in store when one of these customers walk in and grab something to try. While the portuguese customer will always see the price tag before trying out, whereas the foreigner

customer never looks to the price tag, therefore I would say for portuguese consumers is mainly the price and for foreigners is mainly quality and fit. How important is the latest fashion trends to your consumer? How do you meet these? I think that Portuguese consumers are increasing their interest on fashion trends. This is more frequent in a younger generation segment. In order to meet the latest fashion trends we research from blogs, online magazines and what is happening from runways and fashion weeks. Regarding brands we are regularly informed about the upcoming collections, and when we get all the catalogues and trend information in advance we combine it with the information gathered from blogs and magazines to decide what is going to be in store. There is nothing more that we can do regarding to this because we have a small budget and we can’t go overboard. What is the main source of information for the latest trends? The main sources are the information released by fashion brands and fashion blogs. If you had to define your consumer by generation, would they be x or y? Why? If I had to define by generation I would say it is more X than Y and this is because X’s have more purchase power than Y’s. However, I see a lot of Y’s loving our products and asking for their parents (X’s) to buy for them so I would say that the generation that wears our product the most are Y’s but who actually buys are X’s. If you had to define your consumer by how fashionable they are, would they be innovators, laggards, etc.? I feel that, overall, our consumer is between early majority and late majority but I would say that it is more inclined to early majority because we have a very trendy and more up to date than ever clothing offer in store and our customers buy it. I also think that the store location and the type of offer determine how fashionable our consumers are. How do you think your retail store differentiates itself form the competitors? I think that what differentiates this retail store from the competitors is the brand offer. We are the only fashion retailer representing the majority of brand offer we have, in Portugal. What kind of brands do you offer? Accessory-wise we have the Dutch brand Fashionology and Frees and Company. In terms of clothing brands we sell mainly international brands like Just Female, Wrangler, Buffalo, and Iron fist. Why only international brands? That decision came from the store owner. She is Portuguese-Norwegian and she wanted to bring different international brands that you can’t find in Portugal. She did a lot of research and went to many European fashion weeks to gather information and decide which brands to launch in Portugal. I think it has to do with her personal taste and the fact that she knows these brands. How do you ensure that your offer follows the latest fashion trends? Adding to what has been said before, we are constantly researching on the subject, our store owner is strongly aware of what is happening in terms of fashion trends in Portugal and outside the country, she dedicates most of her time on getting information and feedback from the suppliers and the brands. Where do you find inspiration? (Blogs, magazines, celebrities) Why? Mainly from fashion blogs and magazines and our surroundings. By this I mean what you see on the streets. What are your best selling brands? Why? Just Female and Fashionology. These two brands are very cool and most of the consumers buy them because they always find something that is different yet affordable. What social media platforms do you use and why?

We have a Facebook page and we also have Instagram. Both social media platforms are powerful tools to communicate our retailer brand to our target consumer. What are the opportunities of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? I think that most of the opportunities refer to fashion events such as Portugal Fashion, Lisbon Fashion Week, and Fashion’s Night Out. But personally, I feel that these have very little impact on Portuguese fashion consumers because most people look at those events as a social thing and not as something that is promoting fashion in Portugal. How do you maximize them? I feel that the only way to maximize these opportunities is to change the strategy used. Most fashion events are related with high couture or high-end brands and the average consumer has no interest or purchase power to buy those. Fashion Brands should invest more on communication and sponsor these fashion events, otherwise no one knows about their existence. What are the challenges of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? In my opinion, I think it has to do with the openness to fashion of most fashion consumers in Portugal. By this I am referring to their ability to adopt a new trend or not. It is quite difficult to communicate new things for them. The majority of fashion consumers are too conservative and not open to difference. This happens mostly in generation X because most of the Y’s that I see are less conservative albeit small buyers. How do you overcome those? The only way to overcome this is to make new trends more affordable in order to increase the purchase power and maybe the ‘’openness’’ factor that prevents most consumers to adhere to fashion trends. I also think that most people’s perception of new and different trends is a distorted perception and if it is expensive they won’t even try, they are too hesitant and prefer to wait and see what happens to that trend. The rate of trend adoption in Portugal is slower when comparing to other countries such as UK or Germany. Are there any differences in fashion consumption between younger age groups and older age groups? What differences? Yes, there are. Gen Y are more open to fashion and to trends and wished they could buy more. Gen X is less open to fashion and adhere very sporadically to trends. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 19 - Glossy interview transcript Interview with Glossy – Carla Branco (store owner) JG - Who is your target consumer? Can you please describe them? CB - When I founded this store I was aiming for a younger target. Most of the clothing brands were imported and aimed to target a younger segment. However, years gone by and due to the current recession I think this store aims for an older consumer segment with higher purchase power. JG - How would you define your store? CB - I would define Glossy as a fashionable and trendy store for an older consumer segment. JG - How many stores do you have? CB - We only this one. JG - Why this location? CB - This location is more accessible. JG - How important is the fashion consumer for your store? Why? CBI think it is very important for someone who is interested in fashion. Although this is a small retailer business, this type of retailer format is compatible with fashion consumers because it offers a wide variety of brands that you don’t see on most fashion retailers operating in Portugal. The exclusivity is an important aspect for the fashion consumer. How significant is fashion retail within Portugal? I don’t have a specific notion on that subject. And local retailers? I think this type of retail format is important within the whole fashion retail market because it balances out with other retailer formats such as Shopping centres. Portuguese consumers look at street shopping as something enjoyable because they can walk around and enjoy the view while shopping for exclusive brands that aren’t in shopping centres. However, the biggest downturn to this is that local retailers have to employ higher prices so they can pay the rent and ‘’survive’’. What is important to your target consumer? (Fashion, price, quality, fit, etc.) My target consumer is very concerned about the quality and fit. Considering the recurrent recession, price is always an issue and the store has more affordable clothes but I would say that most of my consumers come here because of the design and exclusivity. They prefer to spend a little more and take something that fits them well and no one else has. How important is the latest fashion trends to your consumer? How do you meet these? It is very important and most of our regular customers believe in our taste and choice of new trends. Our choice and offer influences their perception of new trends they come to us to see what is on and what is not. I breathe fashion! I do a lot of research and read many fashion blogs and magazines to see which collections appeal to me the most and then, I combine that information with my supplier’s feedback to decide what is going to be sold in store. Our customers rely on us and on our service to decide what to shop. What is the main source of information for the latest trends? Through Fashion blogs, magazines, and our suppliers. If you had to define your consumer by generation, would they be x or y? Why? Initially, I tried to target generation Y but it is clearly generation X because they have more financial possibilities that Y’s. If you had to define your consumer by how fashionable they are, would they be innovators, laggards, etc.?

We have very few early adopters coming to our store, they are very few in number but they are regulars! Overall, I would define my consumer as someone highly fashionable, between early adopters and early majority. Most Portuguese women wait a while until something becomes mainstream. How do you think your retail store differentiates itself form the competitors? This store differentiates from others through customized service. We know each customer we have; we dedicate time and effort on understanding what our customer wants and needs. What kind of brands do you offer? My offer is mainly from Hoss Intropia and Twin Set. I have other brands in store (Colcci, Denny Rose and Saocco) but they are not as popular as these two. My brand offer aims to target an older segment that is loyal to these brands due to their quality and design. What are your best selling brands? Why? Hoss and Twin set. These brands are high quality and they are very popular amongst our target. I think that most fashion consumers prefer to have fewer clothes but good quality and these brands coincide with that philosophy. Why mix of international and local brands? The only local brand we have is Saoco and I feel that we have more international brands than local ones due to the availability of local brands. Why international brands? Unfortunately, there are very few local brands that are popular. Most successful brands are international in Portugal because of the fact that most Portuguese consumers value more what is imported than local product. How do you ensure that your offer follows the latest fashion trends? We have people working for us on those regards, we collaborate with very informed people and, besides that, I am constantly researching and getting feedback from our suppliers. Social media is a helpful tool to understand fashion trends and get inspired! Where do you find inspiration? (Blogs, magazines, celebrities) Why? Fashion blogs, magazines (e.g. Vogue and ELLE), and catalogues. Celebrities like Mira Duma, Olivia Palermo are also a great inspiration. Many celebrity product placements also inspire us, for example you see Katie Holmes or Sara Carbonero wearing Hoss Intropia! What social media platforms do you use and why? We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use any. I think that most of our customers are either not into social media or donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have time for that as they prefer to go directly into the store or call us to ask about news or fashion trends. What are the opportunities of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? Social media and media are the biggest opportunities out there! I also think that the average fashion consumer is open to fashion and the media should take advantage of this and create more events related with fashion. How do you maximize them? Fashion brands should invest more in their brand communication either through events or social media. There are very few examples of local successful brands and the only way to change this was to shift the mind-set regarding local brands. There has been some campaigns promoting local products and brands but it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reach everyone. What are the challenges of marketing to Portuguese fashion consumers? How do you overcome those? The biggest challenge is the purchase power in Portugal. I think that if a consumer has more purchase power she will take more risks on trying trends.

Are there any differences in fashion consumption between younger age groups and older age groups? What differences? In my opinion, comparing to older age groups younger segments has better taste in fashion albeit they dress with the same colours and patterns. However, generation X have been changing the way they buy and choose which clothes they wear. They dedicate more time and effort on an outfit than younger consumers I think it has to do with self-confidence. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time Â

APPENDIX 20 - Opinion leader interview transcript Joana Duarte 23 years old Occupation: Trend hunting agency work background Fashion Blogger from style and expect How interested are you in fashion? A lot! I consider myself very interested since it is my area of work and it is something that I have been interested in a long time. How do you become aware of fashion trends? Mainly from online sources, online stores and from what is happening on the catwalks and fashion weeks all over the globe. I also research on specific designers to look for their latest work. How important is for you to be up to date with new fashion trends? It is not that important for me although I consider myself a very curious and attentive person on what is happening in fashion. To be up to date with fashion trends is not actually something that truly defines me. Fashion is truly a passion of mine but it goes beyond being up to date with fashion trends. For me if the trend is something unexpected It will probably catch my attention however, if it is just because the trend is shown on Zara windows it doesn’t mean that much to me. Do you read other Portuguese fashion blogs? If so, which ones? Yes. I love Le blog de Betty; I also read several Portuguese blogs, like My fashion insider and Refinaria. How do you define a fashion opinion leader? I would define as someone who is curious and observant and it is two steps ahead in time. What generation/age would they be? Why? I feel that fashion opinion leaders have to be around my age. In other words, they have to be young. Given the fact that Internet is an important tool for all of us, I think that opinion leaders have to be strongly connected with everything related with social media tools such as Facebook and fashion blogs and that belongs, without any doubt, to an opinion leader from a younger generation. Which fashion opinion leaders are most important in Portugal? Why? In my opinion, ‘’os Burgueses’’ is one good example of fashion opinion leaders in Portugal. Although I cannot relate with their collections, they are young and they can be highly influential in fashion due to the fact that they always want to create a something new, a statement and I think that this is fundamental when creating trends. I also consider Sara Andrade to be a fashion opinion leader, she is the editor in chief of online vogue in Portugal and I’ve had the privilege to work with her and even though she is an insider I consider her a visionary. Finally, Portuguese fashion bloggers also are opinion leaders because of the way they expose themselves and their ideas; they are attentive and very connected with the media. What role do opinion leaders play on fashion trend adoption and diffusion in Portugal? The role that fashion opinion leaders have is to show everyone that you can wear anything that is brought by runway collections. Concerning fashion bloggers, their role is to capture all the outfit ideas brought by designers and make them wearable for the mainstream fashion consumer. They are communicators to the masses, and create a link between what designers establish as a trend and how people should actually wear clothes according to that trend. Which celebrities are most important in Portugal? Why?

Some TV actresses from younger generations are a good example of this. Due to their large visibility, they are in every TV series and soap opera everyone sees them. I don’t personally follow them but I consider them important celebrities that may influence trend adoption in Portugal. Do celebrities have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour? How? Yes. Mainly because fashion trends come from television actresses, if some of them start to wear a certain coat or a pair of sunglasses you see everyone copying it. It is almost an immediate process in Portugal. What is your opinion about reference groups in terms of how these impacts on fashion trend adoption behaviour? Given the fact that trends are seen as something new, I feel that the typical fashion consumer in Portugal is not too open to newness, and that is definitely a reflection of each fashion consumer reference group in which she belongs. It is usual to see several fashion female consumers involving and considering friends opinions when deciding which clothes to buy but it is something that it has been diminishing more recently. I personally use different clothing pieces and wear trends that most of my friends and family don’t find appealing. Although I don’t change my way of dressing, I am aware that there is always a pressure to feel included or to please others. Also, I have to say my overall personality and my Arts studies background build a different perspective regarding my choice of clothes. In a way, I feel included in the artistic stereotype and that reflects my outfit choices. Do you think media (music, ads, blogs, magazines, etc.) plays a great role on trend adoption and diffusion? Why? Yes. Media plays a great role due to its ability of entering in our everyday life and showing what is on and what is not. It is an easy access tool. I think that fashion consumers will easily adopt something that has been shown on media than internet, for example. Of course, just because a fashion trend is shown on media, it doesn’t mean that everyone will immediately adopt the trend but it is certainly the most influential channel and reaches everyone. Do fashion brands influence consumers on their purchase behaviour? Which ones? Why? Yes. Consumers are placed in a consumerist society, therefore, brands influence on their purchase behaviour. Again, fashion brands are nowadays, an easy access to anyone. For example, if a fashion consumer goes into her favourite brand store and is not planning on buying a particular piece of clothing it is because she knows that the brand have always offered a variety of clothing that is appealing to her. Fashion brands have that effect on consumers, they rely on them to buy pieces for any situation of a consumers’ life (work, everyday casual clothes, etc.). Consumers relate to brands as if they had similar personalities. In Portugal I see the bigger brands influencing fashion consumers. Brands such as Zara, HM, and Mango are some examples due to its exposure and availability. Do cultural values influence Portuguese fashion consumers on their fashion trend adoption behaviour? I don’t agree that that is the main influence on adoption behaviour. However, the social context in which a consumer is placed in have a great influence on his or her behaviour. Each consumer’s life path defines his/her purchase and adoption behaviour. I feel that the main influence comes from within each female consumer. By this I mean, personality and identity. Women want to feel good and want to show others that they are confortable in the clothes she chose to wear, whether these are trendy or not. Having said this, trend adoption behaviour. Historically speaking, I feel that older generations are influenced differently due to the fact that they went through dictatorship and that may or may not have shaped their attitudes and behaviours towards fashion trend adoption and purchase.

From all the mentioned influences (brands, media, celebrities, reference groups, opinion leaders, etc.), which one would you rate as having the highest influence on fashion consumers in Portugal? Why? Personally, I think that media and fashion brands have the highest influence. When I refer to media the first thing that comes up to my mind are fashion magazines and what is happening on red carpets and celebrities. On one hand, Media is the one of the highest influence because is an easy access channel and mainly targets a female audience. On the other hand, fashion brands have a bigger impact on fashion consumers in Portugal than bloggers or fashion events (e.g. Fashion Night Out, Lisbon fashion week, Portugal fashion) because these (Fashion events) are not as reachable as media and fashion brands. Overall speaking, I think that the main issue is related with the visibility of fashion blogs and fashion events and how these are communicated through media in Portugal. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 21- Opinion leader interview transcript Joana Leal Peixoto 22 years old Fashion blogger from Vision of a dreamer How interested are you in fashion? From what I remember I have always been really into fashion. Since I was a girl I have always loved to dress up, I went through all these phases with clothing: the pink phase, the bad girl phase, etc. I am interested in clothes and I find interesting the way you can combine different outfits from different periods. I love to mix and match. I go to my mother and grandmother’s closet and take several pieces to add to my outfits. I usually mix more expensive vintage clothing pieces with other affordable ones like Zara, Mango, etc. How do you become aware of fashion trends? I used to read more magazines like ELLE, VOGUE, Happy, but I feel that the information coming from these sources has been repetitive and I don’t see anything new. I would say that I become aware of fashion trends mainly from online sources, such as international and Portuguese fashion blogs and from what I see from fashion icons and celebrities that I follow, such as Olivia Palermo, Mira Duma and Gala Gonzalez. How important is for you to be up to date with new fashion trends? I think it is important because you always want to know what is happening. Like I said before, I like to see which trends are coming up and mix them with something old in my closet so I don’t look like anybody else. I like to express myself through clothes in an unexpected way. In a way, I like to stand out from the crowd. Do you read other Portuguese fashion blogs? If so, which ones? Yes. I love Last minute dreams from Carolina Flores! She is one of my best friends, and I consider her a great reference of a fashion blogger in Portugal. I also read Jak and Jill, Gala Gonzalez, Olivia Palermo and Mira Duma official websites and Instagram profiles. How do you define a fashion opinion leader? It is someone with a strong personality likes to take risks (fashion-wise) and is two steps ahead from everyone. It is also someone who is nonconformist if that makes sense. What generation/age would they be? Why? For me it can be any age. I either feel inspired by a 70-year-old lady and 20-year-old fashion icon. I think it doesn’t have to do with age or generation, it has to do with creativity and that does not come from a particular age. Which fashion opinion leaders are most important in Portugal? Why? I don’t think there is a particular fashion opinion leader in Portugal. However, if I had to choose I would say Vicky Fernandes, Raquel Prates and Maria Guedes for an older generation of fashion consumers. These three women target a specific niche market with purchasing power that does not correspond to the average fashion consumer. What role do opinion leaders play on fashion trend adoption and diffusion in Portugal? I think that the main role of opinion leaders is to show alternatives and different perspectives in what concerns to wear clothes. The average Portuguese female fashion consumer is very ‘’plain’’ in her outfits; you always see women and girls wearing a white shirt with denim or black leggings and flats. And that is about it. It is hard for most people to get out of the box. Fashion opinion leaders in Portugal try to show to the average female consumer that you can also wear a patterned shirt and a neon clutch

in your everyday outfits and not die from it. In my opinion, Portuguese fashion consumers are reluctant and afraid to try new trends; therefore, the role of opinion leaders is to be inspirational and influential. Which celebrities are most important in Portugal? Why? In Portugal, I would consider again Vicky Fernandes, Raquel Prates, Maria Guedes and Victoria Guerra. The latter is always very well dressed and is the youngest from all mentioned celebrities. I relate to Victoria Guerra because I think she has the ability to pull anything in such a sophisticated way. Do celebrities have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour? How? I don’t think so. Although they can be inspirational when someone is reading about them in magazines I think that most people look at them and feel that what they are wearing is expensive and, because of that, not buy it. It is not about purchase power because you see wealthy people with no taste in fashion; I feel that it is about personal taste and each individual aesthetic notion. Celebrities are inspirational in Portugal but they don’t have a direct impact on fashion purchase behaviour. What is your opinion about reference groups in terms of how these impacts on fashion trend adoption behaviour? Reference groups have a direct impact on fashion trend adoption behaviour, without a doubt. If you take as an example the generation Y fashion market in Portugal, they wear all the same things and if one person from his/her group of friends adopts a new trend sooner or later everyone from that same group is doing the same thing. Family, on the other hand, is influential to gen X because the older you get the more similar you are with your parents, especially your mother. As to gen Y, I think the younger generation tends to go against what is worn by their parents. Do you think media (music, ads, blogs, magazines, etc.) plays a great role on trend adoption and diffusion? Why? Absolutely! In Portugal, everything said by the media, especially television and magazines become viral, most of the times. I consider that everything that is put out there as mainstream is almost instantly adopted. In particular, Gen Y is very curious and attentive to what is on and what is not and they have the need to follow what is mainstream, or what is approved and exposed by the media. Do fashion brands influence consumers on their purchase behaviour? Which ones? Why? Yes they do. A good example of this is HM in Portugal. You watch these launched events by HM and you see how big is the expectations from the average fashion consumer. In Portugal fashion brands have that effect. Most people look at them as desirable and want to go into the store to purchase even if they don’t need another white shirt. HM is a good example because it is an affordable fashion brand to everyone and I think that these type of brands are the most successful in Portugal. Do cultural values influence Portuguese fashion consumers on their fashion trend adoption behaviour? Yes they do. In general, Portuguese fashion consumers are hesitant in their adoption behaviour. Most people from both generations don’t take risks on trying new trends and I feel that it has to do with their values and beliefs background, their family and friends, your lifestyle, growing path, education, etc. These are all influences that make you what you are today and it is a reflection of your openness to fashion. Younger generations like our generation (Y) buy excessively and are not loyal to any brand; our parents always made efforts to give us everything that they did not had the possibility to have with our age. However, older generations (X) lived through post dictatorship period in which their parents regarded hard work as a valuable thing, therefore, projecting that to them as children and that changes the way each individual behaves in their purchases, especially in fashion.

From all the mentioned influences (brands, media, celebrities, reference groups, opinion leaders, etc.), which one would you rate as having the highest influence on fashion consumers in Portugal? Why? In an overall perspective, I would say Media and social media. Older generations, like X, do not have time to visit fashion blogs to get ideas or trend information; therefore, TV may be the highest influence on fashion consumers from this generation because it communicates for a mainstream target rather than a niche one. However, generation Y fashion consumers are more influenced by digital media (blogs, magazines, etc.) because, as I said before, this generation is literally online all the time. Yâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are always looking for newness and different ways to go against everyone to create a statement, especially teenagers, and what is becoming mainstream is not as accepted as to what is alternative and where do you find that? Online. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 22 - Opinion leader interview transcript Carolina Flores 23 years old Fashion blogger How interested are you in fashion? I like to be aware of what is happening and I consider myself a very attentive and curious person but not to the point of being a fashion victim. How do you become aware of fashion trends? I become aware of fashion trends through Internet and fashion blogs, most of the times. How important is for you to be up to date with new fashion trends? For me is not that important, it is something that happens naturally. Do you read other Portuguese fashion blogs? If so, which ones? Yes I do. I follow Natalie off duty, AM-LUL, and man repeller. But essentially I like to follow Portuguese bloggers through Facebook. How do you define a fashion opinion leader? An opinion leader is someone who has knowledge about not only the present but also about the past and is confortable talking about fashion. An opinion leader also knows and forms very consistent and coherent opinions about fashion What generation/age would they be? Why? I think that there is no particular age to be an opinion leader. It can be any age or generation. Which fashion opinion leaders are most important in Portugal? Why? There is no one I would say that he/she knows exactly what they are talking about. However, I like what the Portuguese blogger Arthur in the Woods writes. What role do opinion leaders play on fashion trend adoption and diffusion in Portugal? N/A Which celebrities are most important in Portugal? Why? I would say Maria Guedes and Joana Freitas. Do celebrities have an impact on fashion purchase behaviour? How? Yes, because when a celebrity wears a piece of clothing or adopts a new trend that piece of clothing or trend becomes extremely desirable. What is your opinion about reference groups in terms of how these impacts on fashion trend adoption behaviour? N/A Do you think media (music, ads, blogs, magazines, etc.) plays a great role on trend adoption and diffusion? Why? Absolutely. Media is an effective way to display a product directly to the consumer but fashion blogs, for me, are the most effective tools to diffuse trends maybe because these come from a very personal opinion rather than a very generic one. Do fashion brands influence consumers on their purchase behaviour? Which ones? Why? Yes they do. Fashion brands are trendsetters, especially fast fashion chain brands like Zara and HM. For example, the CĂŠline bag was one of the most copied bags by these brands and everyone could easily afford one and I think this is a good example to show how brands influence purchase behaviour. Do cultural values influence Portuguese fashion consumers on their fashion trend adoption behaviour?

I think that, in an overall perspective, Portuguese female fashion consumers have been changing the way they perceive trends. They are less afraid and are more enthusiastic to try new upcoming trends. From all the mentioned influences (brands, media, celebrities, reference groups, opinion leaders, etc.), which one would you rate as having the highest influence on fashion consumers in Portugal? Why? Media, because media just enters into your life without asking anything! Media is a daily influence on Portuguese fashion consumers, whether they are from a younger age segment or a older one. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time. I would like to say that it would be positive for all Portuguese fashion consumer to create more roots in fashion and in their personal style. Do not get influenced by what is around you and stand out for once. To be different is still a taboo for many people. Everyone should respect every person style and fashion choices and not judge just because they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wear the same things. I would also like to add that unfortunately there is still a stigma around fashion in Portugal and it is still seen as something that is futile, obviously it is a tricky situation for the people working in the industry and for the fashion market. I think that those preconceived ideas should stop and people should be more open.

APPENDIX 23 - Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Andreia Garcez Age 31 Occupation Pharmacist How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I would say I am moderately interested in fashion because I don’t follow most trends. I feel that my taste in fashion is very peculiar and, from time to time, some fashion trends coincide with this taste. For me fashion trends are cyclic, old become new and new become old. I can spend two years straight without adopting any particular fashion trend because I don’t relate to what is being shown in stores. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? As I said before, I don’t relate with the majority of fashion trends. I have a very specific taste in fashion and, therefore, it is rare for me to adopt most of the fashion trends. Fashion trends simply don’t mean that much for me. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes I do, because in every season I see one fashion trend that may coincide with my specific taste and therefore, I consider myself a fashionable person. How often do you buy clothing? I usually buy every second month and it happens, most of the times, during winter season. I am not a big buyer during summer and spring seasons. I just love winter clothing! How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is reasonably important. Obviously, I don’t spend my whole budget on fashion. If I have a lower budget I won’t certainly spend it on fashion. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I usually buy Zara, Pull and Bear, Saccor Brothers, and Promod. I like Massimo Dutti and Lanidor because I relate to these brands in terms of their clothing offer. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I wish I could own Burberry and Carolina Herrera because I love the patterns and the timeless style. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to a shopping centre and I visit the mentioned stores (Zara, Lanidor, Saccor Brothers, etc.). What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Style Fit Comfort Quality Durability Price I think style and fit are everything because it is the first thing that I see when I am trying the clothes looking at the mirror. The image I see when I wear clothes and the way it fits are important for me. I value others peoples’ perception of me. In third, comes comfort because I have to feel good in the clothes I wear. Quality is important because when you choose a certain style you are portraying a certain image and perceived quality from that. Durability comes with quality and the investment made on

that style. Price is the least important for me because it does not constrain my purchase choices; most of the stores I visit to buy clothes have affordable prices. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? To start with, I don’t usually ask for other people’s opinions. However, I like when I hear people complimenting on my clothing choices. I think it is an ego issue! But if you are asking me if opinions affect my clothing choices, especially in the workplace, yes they do (at some point). In a more casual context I would say that as long as I am feeling great in the clothes I am wearing it is really not important what other people think. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No I wouldn’t, because I like to encourage everyone to be different. Again, as long as I am feeling good about yourself what is the point to judge a friend that dresses in her own way? If I am walking down the street with a friend of mine and I see a random person wearing something different I will probably comment on her/his clothing choices but within my group of friends I wouldn’t do it. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Mostly from ads and fashion brands (what is in store). Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? No, I don’t follow any. I have a Facebook page but the only pages/blogs I follow are home decorationrelated. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? A fashion opinion leader is someone who is highly involved with fashion and works in the fashion industry. It is also a highly informed person and it is neither a fashion blogger nor someone who reads and follows fashion blogs or celebrities. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I think that fashion designers can be opinion leaders because they work in the industry and are extremely involved in the area. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? No they don’t. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I usually prefer going to stores to see new collections and trends. I am used to do this I think it is because I am a very tactile person; therefore I don’t buy magazines or get inspired by online sources. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? There are some celebrities that I admire because of the way they dress but I don’t have anyone in particular that I could consider a fashion icon. Occasionally, I like the way Catherine Zeta Jones and Kate Middleton dress as well as the Portuguese actress Claudia Vieira. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? I think that friends and brands influence me the most. Friends because you can get ideas from them, try these on yourself, and end up buying. Fashion brands have a direct impact on my fashion choices because I usually go to my favourite stores to see, touch, and try the fashion trends that best suit my taste and, of course, purchase.

APPENDIX 24: Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Inês Pontes Age 23 Occupation Consultant How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I think I have always been interested in fashion. if I go to a store and I see new fashion trends I am interested on trying and maybe adopting them. Fashion brand stores have a lot of variety in terms of trends so you have plenty of options to choose from. I am not the kind of person to wear a trend just because everyone around you is wearing; I like to know that I can choose. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? Fashion trends mean exactly what I said before: a trend. Everyone is using a certain pattern; therefore you should be doing the same. For me, this phenomenon has to do with social issues, each individual has to relate and belong to a group. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes of course I do! I consider myself a fashionable person because for me it is important to be part of a group, of something! In other words, I don’t like to be different or to feel like an outcast. How often do you buy clothing? Monthly but sometimes I buy clothes more frequently specially when it is Christmas or in Sale period. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? Although fashion is not the most important thing within my monthly expenditures I would say that it occupies a relevant place in my budget because I have the need to have new clothes regularly. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I usually go to all Inditex group brands like Zara, Stradivarius, Massimo Dutti, etc. This is mainly because these brands are within my ‘’comfort zone’’ in terms of their offer. I have never thought about this nor I have never tried to go to other stores to shop for clothes. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? Honestly, I don’t have a particular brand that I wished to own. I don’t have any aspirational brand on this regard maybe because I don’t have the purchase power to try more expensive or aspirational brands Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually visit the aforementioned stores (Zara, Stradivarius, etc.). I think adopting a new fashion trend has to do with your lifestyle and type of job. I always feel the need to choose a trend that best fits my job dress code and, secondly, my lifestyle. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Style Price Comfort Quality Fit Durability Style and price are equally important for me but I think style comes first because I have to like it, I don’t buy clothes solely because of the price. I don’t mind spending a little bit more if I feel great in a piece of

clothing. Comfort and quality are important but I have feel comfort in the clothes I wear, first! And then, if the clothes I buy have quality probably they will be durable. Durability and fit are the least important aspects because they are not my first concern when I am buying clothes. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is not important. I think that because I am not too different from the others so I feel confortable in any clothes I wear and don’t expect different opinions from others. It is far more important for me what people think of me as a person as opposed to the opinions they have regarding my clothing choices. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? Yes I would. I would probably give suggestions or even help a close friend if I saw her/him not dressing the same way as me. I have to admit that I don’t feel indifferent to these situations. This is because my friend and I are in a group and I feel that if she/he is adopting other trends or dressing differently from the group, she/he is out of the context and may feel like an outcast. I feel the need to tell her/him something. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I would say that the main source, for me, is fashion brand stores. I usually go to stores and see what is on trend. I don’t use anything in particular to keep myself updated. I also see what everyone is wearing in the streets; I think it has to do with what surrounds me. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? When I was younger I used to do that more often but now I don’t. I think it has to do with the fact that I don’t have as much time and interest to do it. I have other interests; I prefer to read about daily news or follow a particular journalist and read his/her online articles. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? An opinion leader in fashion has to be someone who is updated about everything related with fashion. It is someone who is an innovator and follows trends, for sure! Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I can’t really say who is a fashion opinion leader because I don’t have one. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? No, they don’t. I think that my aim when I choose and buy clothes is to feel part of a group; therefore I don’t think that opinion leaders influence me. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media, etc). Why? I don’t search for inspiration in a particular place. There are times that I am in love with a new trend so I check the online page of that brand, but other than that I don’t usually look for fashion inspiration. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I don’t have any. I feel that fashion is not that important for me and I have other interests. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? The biggest influence for me is friends and family because they are my inner circle and near to me. These are the people I tend to relate the most. Media and fashion brands are unavoidable and they have an impact on my fashion choices although not as big as family and friends. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you

APPENDIX 25: Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Joana Murta Age: 26 Occupation: Consultant How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I don’t consider myself strongly interested in fashion. I like to know what is happening in terms of fashion trends and then decide whether I adopt them or not, but not to the point of not feeling confortable wearing something. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? Fashion trends mean newness. I like to know that ‘’newness’’. If there is a new trend going on and I don’t relate to it I will probably acknowledge it but not adopt it. In addition to this, I think that fashion trends have a lot to do with the society context at that moment. For example, because of economic recession I see very minimalist and plain fashion trends. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes, at some extent. I don’t always adopt a trend nor I manifest any interest on adopting. It takes a while until I try something trendy. I don’t like to take risks. I feel that this behaviour is very personal and has to do with self-consciousness with your body shape. How often do you buy clothing? If I go shopping with a friend is more frequent to buy more at once but, most of the times, I buy clothes on a monthly basis. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is not a question of how important it is it is more about the available money you have at a certain time of the month. It can happen to spend part of my monthly income on fashion or it can’t.

It is not

intentional but it happens. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I like to shop at Massimo Dutti, Zara, and Mango. These brands have affordable prices and the way they display their merchandising, which makes me want to buy their clothes. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I am in love with Hoss Intropia and I like almost everything they sell. I also like Longchamp, Carolina Herrera, Michael Kors, and Adolfo Dominguez. In a more casual vibe I like Pepe Jeans. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to stores like Zara and Massimo Dutti (for casual and formal wear). What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Price Fit Style Quality Comfort Durability Price is the most important because if you don’t have enough money it doesn’t matter if you like something or not. I think that my brand choice is not expensive and goes along with an acceptable price range. Fit is extremely important because I have to have clothes that fit me right. They have to enhance

my body shape! I have to relate to the style I am choosing. Quality is relative because it comes with durability and price. Comfort is important because I have to be comfortable in the clothes I wear and durability is the least important because comfort and quality comes first and I am not looking for durable fashion pieces. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is not important in a reactive way but in a proactive way. I don’t if it makes sense but this means that if someone comes to me and says their opinion regarding my clothing choices I won’t change my clothes just because they said so. I will probably remember other peoples’ opinions when I am deciding which clothes to wear. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? I don’t really think about that maybe because I don’t think that I have someone in my group of friends that do that. It is not a spontaneous thing in me; I am very disconnected from that! I won’t probably notice at a first glance, probably afterwards. If someone comments on her choices I will say something but I am always careful with my words because I think that that is very personal. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I like to keep myself updated on fashion trends from online stores, media, magazines and friends. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? I don’t follow any. I think it has to do with personality; it is not something that I am fully interested in. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I don’t actually know what makes someone an opinion leader in fashion, but I’ll make an effort. I think that fashion opinion leaders work in the area and breathe fashion. Opinion leaders in fashion can be bloggers, they write about the subject in question and give opinions about new trends. They are not trend creators, for me they are trend diffusers. They are enablers. For me, fashion opinion leaders have to be intentional in the way they talk about fashion; it can be anyone as long as he/she has an intention to show knowledge about the subject. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? Heidi Klum, Gisele Bundchen and Kerry Washington because of the high visibility they have on media and magazines. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Yes, in an indirect way. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I would say media. Television show Brazilian soap operas and there are actresses in these shows that wear clothes and trends that I like so I think it is inspirational to some extent. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I like Cate Blanchet because she is has a very classic and yet timeless style that appeals to me. I also love some Brazilian actresses from soap operas. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Friends and fashion brands. Because these influences are just ‘’nearby’’. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 26: Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Tatiana Loio Age 27 Occupation Quality control technician How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I like fashion but I don’t follow any blog in particular. I love to shop and see what is on trend. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? If I don’t like them it doesn’t mean anything to me because I am not a follower but I like to be in the know. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes but not excessively. For the same reasons previously presented. How often do you buy clothing? I buy clothing on a monthly basis. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is fairly important. I have other priorities that I find more important to cover than fashion. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? Zara, HM, Mango, and Stradivarius. They have affordable prices and I like their collections. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I don’t have any expensive brand in particular; I am not too aspirational on this field. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I will probably go to the mentioned stores. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Fit Quality Comfort Durability Price Style Fit is extremely important because I am petite and curvy woman and I have to have something that fits me right! Quality is the second most regarded aspect for me. I have to feel comfortable – always! And then, durability price and style are the least important aspects because of the expectations I have about the stores I shop. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is more or less important. I always make an effort to look good but I have to feel good about myself! Fashion is so accessible and easy nowadays that it is difficult to not look good. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? I do have to admit that I would notice and say something to her/him in a constructive way but I really have to be close to this person. Normally, I wouldn’t say anything at all if he/she is not dressing the same way as I. Otherwise I would compliment her/him. Who am I to judge a friend? I think we all have to respect everyone’s fashion taste and choices.

How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Media and celebrities, but I think these two are linked. I also go to stores to keep myself updated. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? No, I don’t. It is not part of my personality; I don’t have the need to follow anything like that. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? It has to be very attentive person; it has to have a strong critical sense. Above all, it has to be on top of the subject and have a deep knowledge about fashion. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t have anyone in particular because I don’t follow any. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Yes they do. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why? It is not that I am not interested in fashion is just that I don’t go anywhere in particular to look for fashion inspiration. I like to go to the stores and see what is going on but I don’t have the urge to look for inspiration. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? Heidi Klum because she is always so well dressed! Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Friends and family because they have a direct influence on me; it has to do with the fact that my friends and I have similar taste and ages. But I also think that it is very personal it comes from what is inside you. At some extent, media is also an influence because I will probably try a trend if I see it on media. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 27: Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Filipa Santos Age 21 Occupation Consultant How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I usually like to read fashion magazines and share ideas with my friends. I don’t follow all fashion trends nor I am a fashion victim but I enjoy fashion in a moderate way. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? It is something that is going to be a ‘’fever’’ or ‘’viral’’. For me, fashion trends come before its actual time, like when they show fashion trends in catalogues or runways they always put next season’s fashion trends (e.g. during winter they present spring trends and vice-versa). It is like a future prediction and viral thing at the same time. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes I do. I think I have that openness, I wish I could have more if I had a bigger allowance. How often do you buy clothing? Monthly. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is moderately important; I try to buy something every month within my expenditure however, if I have to choose, I’d rather spend my budget on a dinner with friends than a coat. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? Zara, Parfois (accessories brand), and HM. These brands have a good quality price ratio and are accessible. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? Stefanel, Massimo Dutti, and Hugo Boss. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I will probably go first to Zara and then, as a second option, I will go to the others that I mentioned. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Fit Style Durability Quality Price Comfort Fit comes first because I am concerned about the way clothes fit me. Style is very personal and important for me I have to love it. Durability is reasonably important because if I am investing in something I expect it to last and, therefore, quality comes next: if it lasts it is good quality! Price and comfort are the least important. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It depends. Obviously, it is important for me. I think that other people’s opinions affect me the most during my purchase decision but not when I am wearing something that they don’t like. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why?

No I wouldn’t. I know many people within my group of friends that dress differently or adopt different trends and I honestly don’t judge them. I notice if a friend comes different but if they are my friends and we get along for some reason, I don’t like to interfere with that. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Social media, magazines and friends. All of them are great tools to get informed. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? Yes, I follow fashion brands on Facebook. I like to follow Mango because of their lovely collections although I find it a bit more expensive than the other brands I shop and La Redoute because they put a lot of promotions on Facebook. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I would say that a fashion opinion leader has to be an expert in the field. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t think I have one because I don’t follow anyone in particular. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? At some extent I think they do. Even if you say that they don’t influence you it is not true because the person in question knows what he/she is talking about and that has an impact on people. Where do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I feel inspired by social media and ads. Social media is very informative and aspirational and ads are very eye catching for me. If it makes me go to the store and buy it is because it is inspirational. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I would say Meryl Streep she is always impeccable and knows how to dress; I admire her specially when she is on red carpets. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? I would say friends, but only some friends. If I go shopping for clothes with those friends they will have a direct influence on me because I trust and value their opinions. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 28: Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Sofia Rocha Age 26 Occupation manager How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I am very interested in fashion! I mean, I am into fabrics, patterns, textures, and shapes. I consider myself a very curious person in fashion. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? I think it does not have to do with the ‘’now’’ but with a mix of what you like and what is on trend. It is very adaptable because every individual knows how to wear a trend in his or her own way. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Although I am not a fashion victim I do consider myself a fashionable person because I never feel pressured to adapt to a new fashion trend but I am always open. How often do you buy clothing? Monthly. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is exceptionally important. Obviously, I never stopped eating because I spent my whole budget on fashion but I have to say that I spend more than half of my monthly budget on fashion. Image is not everything but is extremely important for me, therefore I like to invest in the image I project to others. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I am not loyal to brands. I love to mix affordable brands with high end ones. For example, I mix Zara with Marc Jacobs or Michael Kors. I love mixing opposites and this reflects the way I am in my life. There are thing that I consider important to spend a little more such as a bag or a coat and other things that can be inexpensive like a top or a white shirt. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I wish I could own Balenciaga bags and more Marc Jacobs. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I can both go to a multi brand department store like El Corte Ingles because I can go there and compare prices and Fashion Clinic for the same reason or go to Zara or HM if I am looking for reasonable prices. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Style Fit Comfort Quality Price Durability I am always aiming for a particular style so that comes first. Fit and comfort are associated because if it fits me it is comfortable. I value quality. Price and durability are the least important because I need to be aware of the price to know if I can take it and sometimes if I pay more that doesn’t mean it will last more. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why?

It is important, at some extent. Image is associated with your personality and with what you want to project to others, therefore it is important for me. If someone doesn’t like it wont affect me directly. I like to think that most people understand that I have my own style. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? Yes I would. I know it sound arrogant to say something like this but I just can’t stay quiet about it! I think it has to do with my personality and if I see someone dressing differently or adopting different trends I would judge and my friends know me to the point that they are also free to do the same to me. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Media, Social media, and fashion brands official websites or online stores. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? Yes I do. I follow some fashion blogs but I don’t recall any. I like the Portuguese fashion brand Muu they sell a variety of accessories that I love. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I would describe as someone that I admire visually and intellectually. My notion of aesthetics is strongly linked with intellectual ability. I think that it is something that comes from within. For me, fashion opinion leaders are not trendsetters. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I would consider Michelle Obama because she is very stylish but yet very discrete. She knows how to dress and at the same time be the president’s wife. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Yes they do. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I am a very visual and sensible person. I am always looking for inspiration everywhere I can’t tell you exactly where I look for fashion inspiration the most. I like to walk down the streets and watch my surroundings. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? Some Brazilian celebrities like the actress Carolina Dickman, Hollywood actresses too! Sienna Miller and Kate Beckingsale are adorable. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Media, family and friends. Family is an influence for me but not a direct one. This is because they are completely different from me and, therefore they make me have certain behaviour to go against them. If my mother likes this shirt and I instantly don’t like it just because she liked it. Friends influence me in a positive way. For example, I have a friend of mine that once made a compliment on my clothes and I was encouraged to try more clothes on the same style. I also think that if I see a friend of mine wearing something that influences me into trying a similar type of clothing and maybe buy. Media is a very visual influence on me and, like I said before, that affects me on purchasing fashion. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 29 - Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION X Catarina Gardete Age 39 Occupation Management controller How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I am not particularly too fond on following fashion trends but I like to know what is happening and what is in and out. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? For me it means to adopt new styles. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes, because I like to change my style from time to time and for me it is really important to be able to have different options and change the way I dress. How often do you buy clothing? Monthly. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is approximately 5% within my total expenditure due to financial reasons. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? Lanidor, Massimo Dutti, Stefanel and Fly London. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I don’t have any brand in particular. I wish I could buy more. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to the previously mentioned brands or other brands that I don’t know. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Style- price- quality- comfort- durability- fit How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? I don’t pay special attention to other peoples’ opinions because for me it is important that I feel good with myself. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No, it would not make any sense to me. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I keep myself updated when I visit my favourite stores. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? I don’t. I don’t follow any kind of celebrity or fashion blog. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I don’t have a particular opinion about this subject; therefore I don’t have a clear definition for opinion leaders that I could describe. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t know anyone that I could consider a fashion opinion leader.

Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? No. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t usually consult fashion magazine, blogs or media for fashion inspiration so my answer on this is none. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have anyone in particular. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? (Contextualization with Hofstede) I would probably say family and friends because they are your inner circle and an immediate way of knowing new fashion trends.

APPENDIX 30 - Consumer interview transcript - GENERATION X Carla Garcez Age 37 Occupation Manager How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I don’t consider myself a fashion victim or two steps ahead in fashion from anyone but I like to follow some fashion collections and trends if those are appealing to me. I consider myself moderately interested in fashion. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? As a general rule, I am not a follower. When I look at fashion trends I like to see if those trends are appealing to me and if they are similar to what has been worn before. For example, 30 years ago my mother wore the bell-bottom trouser trend, then I wore them as a teenager and now they are coming back again! Regarding fashion trends I prefer to wait until it is mainstream because I am a bit afraid that it won’t look good on me or fit me right. I don’t usually take risks with fashion trends. I like to first grow the idea of a new fashion trend and then try. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes, I do consider myself a fashionable person. However, I take a while until I adopt a new trend. I easily adopt a classic and simple style rather than something different and exuberant. How often do you buy clothing? Seasonally. In the beginning of each season (Winter or Spring) I usually buy something new for me either on trend or not. I usually buy on sale season as well but I would say that on winter season is the season I buy the most, especially because it is my birthday and I like to buy something for myself. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? Not that important. I have more important expenditures such as my daughters’ education, food, health insurance, household, etc and then, clothes, which are in the fifth place within my total expenditure. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? Some brands include Globe, Lanidor and Stefanel. I think these brands are lovely, their clothes are wellfitted and high quality and appropriate for work. If I am looking for something that is short-term usage I usually shop in Zara. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? Definitely, Hoss Intropia. If I could buy something fancier I would buy clothes from the Portuguese designer Jose Antonio Tenente. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to the previously mentioned brands to purchase a new fashion trend. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Fit Quality Comfort Price Durability Style

Fit is the most important for me because I am aware of my body shape, and that comes with quality and comfort. Price is also an aspect taken into consideration because if I am available to buy I can spend money. I prefer to spend more at once in order to invest in durability. Style comes last because for me I prefer to feel good rather than fit in a particular style. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? At some point, it is important. In terms of work environment, sometimes it is not enough to just be something but also to look like something. In a more casual environment, in a friend’s dinner I prefer to keep more discrete and not wear heels, for example. I like to adapt to each situation. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No, I wouldn’t judge her. However, as my friend I would approach her and give my opinion about her style or choices because of our close friendship. Obviously, I wouldn’t embarrass her in front of all my friends if we were in a group or say something without her asking. Key influences on trend adoption How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I keep myself updated with everything that comes to me I don’t look for information. I say this because I don’t have time to follow fashion blogs or brands in social media. If by any chance I have a magazine near me I will read it but other than that I don’t buy magazines or turn on the TV to see what is on regarding fashion trends. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? Like I said before, I don’t really have time to follow anything related with social media. I do have a Facebook page but that is about it. I hardly have time for that. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? It is someone that is unique, has style and it is kind of unforgettable. An opinion leader makes you want to immediately buy what she/he is wearing. For me, fashion bloggers are not opinion leaders because they are too ‘’mainstream’’ and I don’t relate to them. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I would consider the Portuguese socialite Vicky Fernandes. She is always well dressed and I feel inspired by the way she presents herself in any situation either on TV or in pictures taken by paparazzi. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Yes they do. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? I would say lifestyle magazines like Hello magazine that shows you photos all the royalty in Europe and the way they dress in various contexts. I really enjoy looking at this type of magazines for fashion inspiration. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I would consider Carolina Herrera because she is distinct, unique and always in fashion. I love the classic style from Carolina Herrera because it is timeless and it is never ‘’out’’. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? The biggest influence for me is reference groups, especially from my co-workers because I feel pressured to fit in in my workplace. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you

APPENDIX 31 - Consumer interview transcript - GENERATION X Sofia Reis Age: 37 Occupation: Architect How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I have very little interest in fashion and this is mainly due to my specific style. I hardly adapt to a new fashion trend and I don’t consider myself to be a fashion victim. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? Fashion trends have to do with everything that is shown on media, magazines, everywhere! I mean, you see it on catalogues, in stores and although I don’t usually adhere to them I admit that I am aware that they exist. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? I don’t consider myself to be very fashionable. I enjoy wearing clothes but I haven’t changed my style in years because I think fashion is too specific and since I rarely adhere to any new trend I prefer to say that I am not too open to fashion. How often do you buy clothing? Seasonally. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is becoming fewer and fewer important for me due to financial reasons, other priorities such as household and family remain in the first place. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? All of the brands I usually buy reflect my lifestyle: very functional for everyday life. I love sportswear! I wear snickers most of the time! I usually buy in Women’s secret for underwear, Zara, Mango and Lanidor for clothes and also Benetton, which I used to buy 10 years ago but I still go there because of their sportswear line. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? Since I spend most of my money on shoes I would say that if I could I wish I would own more snickers brands! Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? If there was a fashion trend that would appeal to me it had to be a sportswear trend. So, in that case, I would go to a sportswear store to buy, something like Camper or a multi brand sportswear store. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Quality Comfort Fit Price Durability Style I don’t usually buy something if it doesn’t have quality, so I value quality the most. Fit and comfort come together for me, I have to love it. Durability is relative because nowadays most of the clothes are disposable. Style is the least important for me. I don’t buy because of style I have a very specific taste and style.

How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is not that important. I don’t really care how everyone dresses so I project that to me. Since I wear very simple and functional clothes I don’t feel pressured to fit in with other people’s opinions. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No, I wouldn’t judge especially because most of my friends have totally different styles. Since I normally don’t adopt new trends I feel that everyone else is different than me, therefore I don’t feel the need to judge or approach a friends in those terms. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I would say fashion ads or catalogues. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? No, none. I don’t follow any because I don’t feel the urge to do so. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? Honestly, I feel that fashion is something very volatile and futile. My personality makes me envision fashion this way. The image I have from opinion leaders is that they are very self-centred and always obsessed with how people wear clothes. However, they may be a very useful tool to inspire most people because they see what is happening internationally and convey that to their country or their ‘’environment’’. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t recall any. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? No they don’t. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why? I don’t have a particular inspirational ‘’tool’’. Again, I am not too connected with fashion and what is happening at the moment. I am not against to fashion, I think is just my personality. If there were a fashion show playing on TV I would probably ignore it or change to another channel. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? I don’t have a celebrity fashion icon. However, I would consider the 50’s and 60’s era and all the glamour of this period as an iconic period. Women and men were very well dressed and I love the timeless feeling from the clothes worn on that period. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Contrary to what has been said, I feel that media may be an influence because it can make me go to a store and try the clothes or the trend. Friends are also an influence for me, if I see a friend of mine wearing something that I like I would probably try similar clothes on me. But, overall, I feel that my fashion choices are affected by the need to buy a new piece of clothing (because I really need to) rather than being influenced to buy this clothes or that trend. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 32 - Consumer interview transcript - GENERATION X Patricia Ferreira Age 38 Occupation Lawyer How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I am moderately interested in fashion. I am neither a trend follower nor a fashion victim. I don’t really read fashion magazines or watch TV for that purpose. Fashion for me is relevant, I dedicate some time when combining my outfits and, from time to time, I go to stores to do some window-shopping and that is about it. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? If trends are appealing to me they have a meaning. If not, I ignore them. Just because everyone is wearing yellow jackets does not mean I will do the same thing. It is certainly not because this or that is on trend that I will adopt it. This is mainly because I feel that if I don’t like the trend, it is not relevant for me to even care to adopt it. I don’t like to be ‘’mainstream’’. However, if there is a resilient trend over time I will probably end up adopting it (given example: golden accessories). I think that consciously I am not permeable to trends but unconsciously there is whole process of learning happening that, later on, can make you adopt a trend. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes, but fashionable is a strong concept in which I don’t relate that much. I don’t feel the need to be fashionable it just happens. How often do you buy clothing? It depends on my free time. I am not a regular shopper; I can either shop for clothes weekly or 5 times a year. It is possible for me to go to Primark, for example, and love one pair of trousers and buy all the available colours from that collection. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? It is not a priority. I have two sons and a tight budget that I have to manage. When I was younger it was easier to buy a pair of fantastic jeans! What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I usually buy clothes on Zara, Promod, and New Yorker because I find that these brands have a great offer of clothes with affordable prices. I tend to like fashion targeted to a younger audience. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I am unimpressed by aspirational brands; therefore there isn’t any particular brand that I wish to own. I can go to Carolina Herrera or Uterque and love something but when I look at the price tag I think that it is too much for what it is. For example, when I went to New York I spend my entire budget on Armani exchange, which is contradictory to what I am saying, but it happens. I am also really fond of alternative brands and most of them I had the opportunity to visit the stores when I was in New York. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to the previously mentioned stores. Zara, Mango, Promod and New Yorker. The process of adopting something new is, for me very personal, it is about your own style, own personality. I prefer to rely on basics that I see on Primark or Zara than invest in a unique piece of clothing that I don’t even know if it is going to fit me right. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why?

Style Price Comfort Fit Quality Durability Style and price are the first and second most important aspects when purchasing fashion because I have to like the style and it has to be within my budget. I also have to feel comfortable with the clothes I buy, therefore fit is a valuable aspect linked to this. Quality and durability are the least important aspects because if something that I buy is cheap I am not worried if it is good quality and durable, I prefer to buy more short term usage clothing that lasts for a season than investing in a high quality coat. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is irrelevant because I dress for myself. I won’t lie by saying that I don’t care at all, obviously I am worried about the image I want to project on others but, primarily, I dress for myself. If I go to a job interview I make an effort to fit the expectations but other than that I usually dress according to my personality. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? I wouldn’t feel confortable approaching a friend on those regards. I feel that it everyone should express their own individuality. However, if everyone is wearing blue in the work environment and she is wearing pink I would say something to her but other than that I think that it is up to her to decide whatever trend or clothes she wants to wear. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Like I said before, I am not permeable to media, magazines and social media. I think that I become aware of new fashion trends when I go outside my home and see what people are wearing on streets, etc. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? No, I don’t. I have no time or patience to follow and read fashion blogs or social media. For me, doing that is boring and annoying. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I can’t really define that concept because I am really not aware of who may be a fashion opinion leader in Portugal. Maybe someone who is charismatic and everyone follows him/her because of the way he/she dresses. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? Again, I don’t have one because I am not consciously aware of that subject. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Consciously, no. However, I feel that unconsciously they do. If an opinion leader is followed by 90% of my friends I’ll probably feel influenced by him/her. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why? I don’t look for fashion inspiration anywhere in particular. I think that it is an environmental issue. I feel inspired by what surrounds me in terms of what I see when I walk in the streets. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? No one. I don’t have anyone that I could say ‘’She is always so well dressed! I love her style.’’

Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Family, in this case my mother. I have an example of how family can influence me. Recently I bought a pair of boots and I asked my mother to help me decide which pair to buy. I think it is because she can validate some aspects (e.g. how it fits) that I may not see when I am purchasing something. Friends do not influence me because I usually go shopping alone, it is rare to go shopping with a friend however, I have a friend that I think she dresses really well and I sometimes ask her opinion before purchasing. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 33 - Consumer interview transcript - GENERATION X Sonia Pires Age 35 Occupation Financial manager How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would say 7. I enjoy fashion, I am interested in it but I am not a victim. Normally, most of the things that are on trend I don’t like the way they look on me and that is why I consider myself a non-follower. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? For me, it means periods of time or seasons. It also means that everybody, or most of people will wear something. It is what most people tend to wear at a particular moment. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes, I do. In a way, I feel that trends are stimulus for me in what regards to be fashionable. I don’t feel I have to be wearing trends to be fashionable but I think that I do enjoy combining outfits in a way that I feel good about myself. How often do you buy clothing? If I could I would buy daily but no, I buy clothes monthly. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? Within my monthly budget, fashion is moderately important for me. Because I regularly buy something for me, if I see something that I really like I don’t hesitate and buy. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I am not loyal to fashion brands but if I buy something it will be from Zara, Guess, Colcci or Ferrage. Zara has more affordable and functional clothing that is appropriate for my everyday life. The other two brands are good examples of fashion brands that usually shop when I want something different with good quality. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? if I could, I wish I would buy Gucci and Dolce and Gabbana. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I usually go to Zara and Mango; these stores are the first places I go if there is a fashion trend going on that appeal to me. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Style Fit Quality Price Comfort Durability Style is the first thing that either attracts me or not. I am very focused on style. If what I am about to buy doesn’t fit me right I won’t buy it because I am very preoccupied about the way clothes have to fit me. Quality is a bit relative for me because if you buy, for example, basics that are crucial in your wardrobe it must have quality. Following this, comes comfort and durability that are the least important for me when buying clothes but these aspects strongly rely on the quality invested by you.

How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? (Contextualization with Hofstede) I give little importance to what other people think regarding my clothing choices. I think everyone has his or her own style and personality and, therefore, should celebrate it. For example, if I go shopping with a friend and I grab a piece of clothing that she doesn’t like but when I try it she likes it in me and says something like ‘’ it is not my style but I love it on you because it is so YOU’’. I like to invest in my own individualism. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No I wouldn’t. I am not the type of person to approach someone to say something about the way he/she dresses. If a friend is not asking my opinion I just don’t say anything. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) I mainly keep myself updated on fashion trends through magazines and celebrities. I like happy magazine and ELLE. Regarding celebrities I like Rita Pereira and Diana Chaves. I would say these two Portuguese celebrities dress in a way that pleases me and they have a very versatile style. I relate to their fashion choices. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? Yes I do! I love the Portuguese accessories brand Vera shoes and I follow it, I also like to follow Zara, HM, Mango and Burberry. I like to see what these brands put on their news feed regarding new collections and trends it is a good way to be updated with what’s happening. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? I don’t have a specific definition for this subject but I think that mainly this person has to love fashion. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t have anyone in particular, however I think opinion leaders have to inspire and projecting that to my limited knowledge about the subject I think that my sister, for example, is not an opinion leader but is inspirational for me. She loves fashion and knows how to dress for any occasion. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? Yes they do. If I like something and it doesn’t look good on me but an opinion leader says otherwise, he/she may influence me. The example of my sister applies to this. Where do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, and media) Why? Mainly from magazines and fashion blogs. I like to see outfit suggestions and how to combine a trend with what you have in your wardrobe. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why? In Portugal, I consider Liliana Campos (same generation) a fashion icon because she always chooses the best outfits she looks so young and pretty and I would say that I relate to that. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? Although family and friends are the ‘’nearest’’ influence I think that magazines and media are the strongest influences for me. You become aware and informed about new trends from those sources. What is happening now and internationally comes from media and I like to be in the know and up to date. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time.

APPENDIX 34 - Consumer interview transcript – GENERATION Y Sara Pereira Age 36 Occupation Call centre assistant How interested are you in fashion? Explain how and why. I am interested in fashion, not excessively but I like to know what is trend and what is not. I love clothes, but I don’t strictly follow fashion trends and rules. What does fashion trends mean for you? Why? The first impression for me about fashion trends is the now, what you should wear now. I don’t really relate to that. I see it in a different perspective, I love to mix what is ‘’in’’ with what is ‘‘out’’, if I like something it doesn’t matter if it is trend or not. I don’t feel the need to fit in, I consider myself an outsider since a young age, because I never needed or wanted to fit in the society or in the group of friends I have. Do you consider yourself a fashionable person? Why? Yes I do, I give importance to what is a happening in terms of fashion trend. I don’t simply ignore what surrounds me I enjoy knowing which trends are hot or not but not to the point of being a fashion victim. I consider myself moderately fashionable. How often do you buy clothing? It depends. At the moment, due to my financial situation, I don’t shop for clothes at all. I try to recycle and reutilize most of the clothes I own. However, if I had the possibility to buy more I would do it monthly. How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? Why? As previously mentioned and justified, fashion is not important within my expenditure. What fashion brands do you usually buy? Why? I would say Stradivarius and Mango. Stradivarius is more affordable and Mango is because of the display of the windows and the in store merchandising display that pleases me. I think that Mango has this ability of making some clothing pieces look ‘’high end’’. Which fashion brands do you wish to own? I don’t have any opinion about desired brands I think that if I had the financial possibility I wouldn’t feel the urge to own any particular fashion brand just because I could. But I think that maybe D&G would be an example, but still. I feel that because I am not aware of brands, therefore I cannot talk about something that I don’t know. Once you have identified the need to adopt a new fashion trend where do you go to purchase it? I would go to D&G if I had the possibility, other than that I would purchase in Mango or Stradivarius. What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, quality, price, fit, durability, comfort) could you please rank these aspects and explain why? Comfort Price Quality Fit Style Durability

Above all, comfort is the most important because I have to feel comfortable. Price is the second most important due to my financial situation. Years ago I would look at one piece of clothing and buy it almost immediately but now I think ten times before buying and, even that, do not lead me to purchase. Quality is important because I need to know if this purchase will be worth it. Fit is linked with comfort but is not that important. Style is not the first thing that comes to my attention I have other aspects taken into consideration before a purchase and durability is the least important because I feel that durability is something that hardly comes first to anyone’s mind when thinking of buying clothes. How important is it for you what other people think regarding your clothing choices? Why? It is not that important for me. Obviously, if I am in my job I care about what other people think of my clothing choices but my purchase decisions are not dependent on what other people may think or not. I think it is a self-esteem issue and I, sometimes, see a lot of people stressing without reason. Most of people are insecure to the point of changing their choices because of what has been told to them by their friends or family. I don’t do that; I have never felt the need to feel accepted maybe because I think I have never had issues with that. Would you judge a friend if he/she is not adopting the same trends or dressing the same way as you? Why? No I wouldn’t judge in any way. Only if I was really close to that person and, even so, I would always employ a constructive opinion. My group of friends is very small but so different, each one of us has different styles, adopt different trends and we accept each other’s decisions. Although each one of us is open to others’ opinions we do invest a lot in each one’s individualism. I think that that is more current when you are a teenager and you feel the need to please everyone, it is a phase in which you are more insecure and still finding yourself. How do you keep yourself updated on fashion trends? (Media, magazines, celebrities, social media, ads, etc.) Essentially from magazines. Do you follow any fashion brand/ celebrity/ fashion blog page? Which ones? Why? No I don’t. I do have a Facebook page and follow some brands but I don’t actually follow what is happening to them. I think it has to do with the fact that I don’t strictly follow fashion trends and you can see them in the streets, on media, in stores etc. I feel that what you see what is happening on runways is unrealistic and non applicable to real life. I don’t relate to that, I relate to what I see around me in my everyday life. How do you describe a fashion opinion leader? A fashion opinion leader is someone who is open minded, very informed, with a versatile personality. It is also someone with a strong opinion about all influences (media, blogs, magazines) in fashion and conveys that in a simple way to the average consumer. Who would you consider a fashion opinion leader? Why? I don’t have anyone in particular. Do fashion opinion leaders influence you when buying clothes? No they don’t. I see some duality in this question because I think that in one way they may influence and in another way they don’t. I don’t consider myself influenceable in these terms. I may listen to what an opinion leader has to say but, ultimately, it won’t impact on my purchase decisions. Who do you look to for fashion inspiration? (Fashion magazines, blogs, media) Why? I would say maybe the media because it is the ‘’nearest’’ influence, it is just around the corner and it is so easy access that you don’t even have time to decide if you want to see it or not. Who do you consider to be a celebrity fashion icon? Why?

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a particular fashion icon or celebrity; since I was young I have never had an idol or someone that I would admire. Who do you consider to have the biggest influence on your fashion choices: family, friends, celebrities, brands, media, or no one? Why? I think that your inner circle influences a lot. At least for me. This is mainly because having friends and family around gives you the opportunity to know more about yourself and what suits you best or not according to others. For me, friends can be inspirational because if I have a friend that is wearing something on trend that appeals to me it can lead me to purchase similar clothes. Obviously, this is not a general rule for me but sometimes it happens. Another strong influence for me is fashion stores because you can go there and try the trends/clothes for yourself and that is the most important thing for me when Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time. Â

Appendix 35 - Focus group transcripts with generation X fashion consumers JG- Hello everyone! I hope you are all well! We will talk about fashion trends and your involvement with fashion and feelings towards it. What does it mean for you to be on trend? CG- to be on trend depends on each person. It is a question of feeling, people may feel or not that they are on trend. PF- I think it has to do with one’s personality and style. However, not everyone is interested to be on trend, it is irrelevant to them. JG - Do you all consider yourselves fashionable? SP1 – Yes I do. CC – I would say yes. SP2 - it depends on your lifestyle. CG – yes, without any doubt! I think it has to do with my preferences and self-perception of fashion. Although I am aware that I don’t wear everything that you see in shops I also have the power to decide for myself what suits my taste. For example, the metallic and spike stud trend is something horrible for me. You wont ever see me wearing that. SR – Why would you think that that is on trend? CG – it is literally everywhere! So it means that it is a fashion trend happening now! SR – But who established that? Does that mean that you must wear it? PF – my opinion on that is that not everything that is mainstream is a must wear! CG – I understand what you are saying but the truth is, whether you like it or not, mainstream always win! Everyone ends up buying it and wearing. Some people take longer to adopt than others. JG - How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? CC - Not that important. SP2 – For me is important. I say this because I consider myself a trend follower and that can make you spend some money! SP1 – It is not, unfortunately. SR – I wish it could be more important! CG – me too! PF - For me the importance is moderate. JG - How important is for you to be on trend? PF – it is kind of irrelevant, for me. I think it depends on your own perception of how clothes make you feel. CG – I like to feel good in the clothes I wear so I would say that is important for me to be on trend. I have to like what I see in the mirror. JG - Do you usually go shopping for fashion alone? Or with others? SP1 – I’d rather go alone. CC – me too CG – I either go alone or with my daughters because they are still babies and I sometimes I have to take them with me. PF - yes, alone. SR – me too. SP2 – I prefer going alone but if is a specific purchase like buying something to wear on a special event I go with my sister. JG – Why your sister?

SP2 – if it is a special occasion I like to go with my sister because I enjoy her company and she always gives me an honest opinion. JG - What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, durability, price, quality, fit or comfort) SP1 – Comfort CG – Quality and comfort. I choose comfort. SP2 – I think that if we are talking about basics the most important thing is durability, if you buy an everyday top or shirt it should be durable. CC – Comfort PF – I am still trying to remember what I told you when you first interviewed me, I think it was comfort and fit. SR - Comfort JG - What do you think the way you dress says about yourself? SR – it says a lot, especially in the workplace. CG- I agree. CC – I do too. It reflects your dedication, time and effort on putting an outfit together. SP2 – I think it says a lot about yourself, if you are in a bad or good mood. For example if I am wearing black, which I hate that says a lot about the way I am feeling at the moment. PF- I don’t agree. I think every person dresses according to the occasion. CG – what you mean is exactly what we have been saying. You dress in a certain way to express a certain image. I just think that sometimes people go overboard and just stereotype without any reason, just because you wear this polo shirt you are a preppy or posh person, so what? Why be judged that way? What is, in fact, the real meaning of being posh or preppy? JG – Now please could you take a look at the following images. These are three different images of celebrities shopping. Let’s talk about feelings and attitudes towards celebrities. Can you discuss them amongst yourselves and please indicate me which ones you find trendy or boring? CG –I don’t like the celebrity in picture 2 nor her style! She looks squint eyed! SP1 – I love the shopping bags brands that they have! PF – from the three pictures only two of them look glamorous shopping. I don’t relate with the celebrity shopping in picture no.2 CG- the celebrity in the first picture is absolutely gorgeous but I don’t like the way she dresses. SP2- I don’t like the style of the third celebrity, however the Chanel packaging is very likeable! JG – Do any of these celebrities influence you on buying? CG - No, not at all. SR – Nope, I don’t think so. SP2 – Yes they do! At least for me… and I have to say that from all shown celebrities, and in disagreement with all the participants, I like the celebrity in picture no.2 she is always very well dressed and I love her outfits! It does not have to do with her body or her eyes. What I like the most about her is her casual style. Regarding to the other celebrities I think that they are also very casual and trendy but the only thing that catches my attention is the Chanel box. CG – I think that the first celebrity presented is more influential to teenagers. SP2 – Do you think? I am not a teenager and I feel that she can influence me at some point. CG – yes I do think that, and I also feel that the second celebrity is not an influence for me at all. She is annoying. I don’t like the way she talks, she dresses, and the way she is. I just don’t feel any empathy for her.

SR – you don’t know the celebrity! SP2 – I think that you don’t need to, if you don’t like the way someone is you immediately don’t like anything that comes from her. CG – It just bothers me all the buzz she gets from media for no apparent reason. PF – All of these images remind me of those paparazzi magazines that I hate. I really don’t relate to these celebrities and I think they don’t influence me on buying a particular trend item. JG – So now I am going to ask you to read the four personal values when buying and adopting fashion trends that are presented to you individually. Could you please rank them in order of importance, from the most important value through the least important value and explain to the most important and the least important chosen values? SP1 – for me the most important is functionality because clothes have to be suitable for everyday use and, at the same time, I have to feel good wearing them. The least important is the sense of belonging. I don’t follow anything, I don’t really care of being part of a group it is not important for me in any way. SP2 – the most important for me is functionality, all the clothes I buy have to be functional and I say this because when I shop I am always looking for versatile clothes and styles. The least important for me is to be a bargain shopper, it always go wrong with me! When I buy something having that on mind I always regret my purchase afterwards. I rarely buy something just because it is a bargain. CG – for me functionality comes first because I have to feel good in the clothes I wear and the least important thing for me is individualism. I say this because when I was a teenager, to be individualistic mattered for me but now that doesn’t matter to me. Nowadays, you go outside and everyone is dressing the same way, there is no big difference in the way most people dress. CC – functionality comes first, clothes have to practical to wear! The least important is the sense of membership; I always associate that with teenager phases when you need to show to your group of friends that you are part of them! PF – Ok, for me individualism is the most important! I have this raspberry coloured hat that I bought in New York three years ago. It is absolutely gorgeous! No one else has and I like that! I think it all comes up to the attitude you have while wearing something, a piece of clothing has to reinforce your personality! The least important for me is the sense of membership. SR – The most important value for me is bargain shopping, I associate it with going to fashion outlets to buy clothes, which I love! I once bought a 150€ jeans for 30€ and for me was the coolest thing! The least important value is individualism. I feel exactly the opposite way that PF explained individualism. JG - Who do you look to for fashion ideas the most? (Family, friends, brands, social media, celebrities, magazines, media) CG- I don’t look for information. I feel that this is a time issue, I speak for myself, and I don’t usually have time to read social media or magazines on this matter. I don’t go out on purpose to shop for clothes. If, by any chance, I have some free time I will do some window-shopping and probably buy something for my daughters, not for me. SR –I think brands have that effect on me. I purposely manage my time in order to shop for clothes because I don’t have time. CC – I would say brands. SP1 – I look for fashion ideas through brands. But I usually go to the stores to get fashion ideas because I like to touch and try clothes rather than just look at them. JG - What blogs do you look at for trend information? How often? SP2 – I usually read fashion blogs! I actually find it to be a useful tool to get some trend inspiration. I also like to read fashion magazines like Elle or Happy.

CC – I don’t read fashion blogs. Don’t have time or patience for that. CG – I don’t too. SR – me too. PF – like I said I don’t use social media for fashion information. SP1 – None. I don’t read blogs. JG - Which magazines do you look at for trend information? How often? SP1 – Sometimes I read some magazines but I’m not too fond of fashion magazines I prefer lifestyle magazines. CG – I don’t have a particular magazine that I can mention but I enjoy reading lifestyle and paparazzi magazines just to see the celebrity outfits! PF – I think it is a waste of time, at least for me. JG - How important are brands to you? Why? SR – I think it would be more important for me if I were more curious about fashion. SP2 – It depends. Sometimes you are reading a fashion magazine or a lifestyle magazine and you see a particular garment that you like and you think you might find in that particular brand store, this happens because you associate a certain image to a brand. Thus, in my opinion brands are important because they enter into our lives and change our perceptions towards trends. PF - Brand are not a source of information for me. They are important for me in terms of fulfilling my fashion needs. If I want a pair of jeans I go to this or that particular brand because I know that the brand always has quality jeans. JG - How do brands usually get your attention? CG – Through their window display. SP2 – I think brands get my attention through their window displays and the in store merchandising display. SR – I would say ads and outdoors, I am very attentive to advertisement and usually outdoors catch my attention. I like to see the design, the colours used, etc. However, it doesn’t influence me to purchase the advertised clothes, I will probably go to the store and see the collection but it doesn’t make me buy it. JG - How important are friends and family when deciding which clothes to buy? Why? CG – when I am about to purchase something I think friends and family are irrelevant. This is especially because I shop alone for my clothes. JG – but have friends or family ever changed your opinion about clothes? CG – yes! It happened to me especially because of my husband he commented on my clothes and because of that I returned them. CC – Never happened to me. SR – Me neither. SP2 – It is not usual with clothes but if I am buying shoes I really need opinions (from my sister or a friend) and I take into account what they tell me. I don’t care about others opinions regarding my clothing choices but regarding shoes and accessories I prefer to be ‘’guided’’. PF – my mother is the only person I ask for an opinion, otherwise I just do my own choices with no fear. SP1 – I have to admit and say that opinions are important for me. You always want to know what others think but not to the point of influencing my purchase decision. JG - How would you define fashion opinion leaders? SP1 – it is a highly informed person, open to all trends, and has to an expert on the subject. CG – An opinion leader in fashion has to be a knowledgeable person and has to look good.

CC – I don’t agree, I think that most opinion leaders are not pretty or good looking. For me, the Portuguese designer Ana Salazar is an opinion leader and look at her! She is not certainly good looking. SP2 – A fashion opinion leader has to be believable, it has to make you believe that what he/she is wearing is amazing and it will also look good on you! SR – it is someone that has done history. It is someone that everyone trusts, like Coco Chanel. PF – a fashion opinion leader is someone remarkable either inside or outside the fashion industry. He or she has to breath and live Fashion. For me, bloggers and celebrities are not and cannot be fashion opinion leaders because they are not credible; therefore they don’t fit in my concept of opinion leader. JG - To what extent do opinion leaders influence your trend perception? Why? PF – They don’t influence me in any form or way. They just don’t, I don’t relate with that type of fashion ‘’source’’. CG – I don’t think they influence me directly. If I am watching on TV the last collection brought by Chanel I might get a bit influenced by what they are saying. Overall, I think it doesn’t influence my trend perception because it is expensive and looks unreachable. SP1 –although I don’t have a particular opinion leader in fashion nor I know what they have done, I think they always end up influencing trend perceptions because they can make most of the looks you see on runways more realistic and applicable to average consumers. But they don’t influence me. SP2 – I think it is unavoidable. I love to see the new collections, the ‘’it’’ colours and patterns! For me it has a huge influence! Everyone knows what is on trend, she didn’t wear metallic studs but she knew that they were on trend! SR – That happens because we go outside and watch TV and see what people are wearing, but I don’t think fashion opinion leaders influence us all! SP2 – the thing is, even if you are not influenced directly by an opinion leader you know somehow what is on trend and that will, ultimately, influence your final decision. CG – I don’t fully agree, I just think that you can either be active or passive towards fashion trends. I consider myself passive. CC – I consider my mother and grandmother to be my ‘’opinion leaders’’ in fashion but I rarely hear from them saying that you should wear this or that and when it happens it rarely influences me. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time

APPENDIX 36 - Focus groups transcripts with generation Y consumers JG- Hello everyone! I hope you are all well! We will talk about fashion trends and your involvement with fashion and feelings towards it. What does it mean for you all to be on trend? FS – I think that, for me, to be on trend means to anticipate, to wear something before its time. When you see new upcoming collections for next season: that is what it means. SR – I don’t agree with that, I feel that to be on trend is related with a state of mind, is something that comes from within, it has to with your personality and the image you want to project to others. AG – when I think about what it means to be on trend the first thing that comes up to my mind are all those TV shows with fashion designers talking about what is going to be trend, fashion weeks footage, etc. Usually I don’t follow trends but I like to watch these types of shows. Also, when you go into Zara and all you can see is red or leopard print that means that there is a fashion trend in the ‘’air’’. JM – For me, to be on trend is a balance between what fashion designers impose every season and what you consider to be most suitable for you, for your body type and personality. IP – yes, but you have to agree that if you go to a store and everything inside is only red it means that red is on trend. The predominance of a colour, a pattern, a texture or a design in fashion stores means that there is a trend going on. JM – sure, but you always have to adapt that information to your own personality. AG – of course, it is kind of impossible to wear everything from Zara just because you want to be on trend. It is not realistic! SR – to be on trend is the same as being fashionable or fashion forward; you always have to balance both sides. TL – yeah, definitely. And I want to add that to be on trend means to be up to date. JG - Do you all consider yourselves fashionable? SR – yes, but not a fashion victim. JM – yes I do, I love shopping for fashion. IP – yeah I always like to be up to date. TL – me too. AG – yes I do. FS – yeah I would say I make an effort to be fashionable JG - How important is fashion within all of your expenditure? FS – not important. TL – it is moderately important. IP – is not that important. I think that as you get older you find yourself and you don’t have the need to follow trends and buy all trendy clothes. JM – I would like to say that is not that important but it’s not true! AG – Now it is less important than before, there were times that I would spend a lot of money in fashion but now that has changed. I think its because I am getting older and have less patience to go to stores to shop. SR – I think that the older you get the more you spend on clothes because you become more demanding and fussy with clothes, therefore I would say that fashion is important within my expenditure. I prefer to buy less but better. JG - How important is for you to be on trend? IP – for me is not important. Obviously, I like to be informed and to see what is happening in terms of trends but not to the point of following all trends.

FS – There is a fashion trend going on, I think it’s the tartan pattern and you see it in every store everywhere. This last weekend I went to a store and I saw skirts, shirts, and trousers with that pattern! When I see something like this happening I usually feel hesitant and not buy so I would say that it is moderately important for me to be on trend. JM – it is fairly important AG – yes I also agree on that. JG - Do you usually go shopping for fashion alone? Or with others? SR – Alone. Always. AG- me too. I don’t need to take friends in order to decide what to buy. Firstly, I think that when I have friends with me shopping they interfere with my concentration and secondly, I don’t really feel the need to hear other people’s opinions regarding my clothing choices. If I want to buy I buy and I assume that until the end. FS – never alone, always with my friends. IP – me too. JM – to go to a shopping mall and browse through stores I like to go with friends but if I am going to buy something I prefer going alone. I feel that if I buy something with friends they will influence me to buy things that I won’t wear. TL - it depends. If I need to buy basics and everyday clothes I go shopping alone but if I’m buying something for a special occasion I prefer to take with me some friends for an honest opinion. JG – For the ones who said with a friend, why? FS – I either go shopping with the same friends or my mother. I think it’s because I know I can trust their opinions and they are honest with me when they see me trying clothes. I like to know what they think about the clothes I am choosing. IP – I share the same opinion. JG - What do you feel about shopping in multi brand retailer stores? FS – I don’t usually go. SR – Me too AG – I think they all look expensive TL – Yeah, they only have designer brands and are too expensive for my budget. IP – I prefer going to a bigger store, I know that I will always like something in there. JM – I rarely go to those types of stores but when I do is with the purpose to find something unique or different. JG - What is most important to you when buying fashion? (Style, on trend, durability, price, quality, fit or comfort) SR – Comfort, it has to be like a second skin. JM – Price is important but also fit is. IP – I think I said price before but I also think that the most important is style, if I really like the style I don’t mind paying more. JM – I think I didn’t mean that. I mean you go to a store and from all the clothes being sold there you always like and pick up (randomly) a more expensive one. TL – Fit because I am a petite woman so that matters for me. AG – Fit and style. I feel that one thing comes after the other: if it fits you well you will feel stylish. JG - What do you think the way you dress says about yourself? IP – I think your personality, your lifestyle. AG – I think that too.

FS – that I am a formal person when I am working and more casual when I am outside work. JM – I think that, first of all, when I dress up I prefer to mingle in the environment I am placed in than standing out. That, for me, applies to both work and casual environments. The way I dress says that I am effortless and I didn’t dedicate too much time on my outfit but I look ‘’put together’’. The way you dress says a lot about limits as well. For example, if I am wearing very casual clothes I feel that people around me will expect me to be relaxed, therefore I react by talking and acting to them in a more serious way. If you have a cleavage people will judge you but you have to counteract through your personality! SR – I think it says a lot about your mood and personality. TL – overall, I feel that the way I dress has to project my taste in clothes but that rarely happens because I work in a factory and I have a very specific dress code for that. Nonetheless, the ways I dress have to say a lot about your personality. JG – Now please could you take a look at the following images. These are three different images of celebrities shopping. Let’s talk about feelings and attitudes towards celebrities. Can you discuss them amongst yourselves and please indicate me which ones you find trendy or boring? SR – I don’t like her clothes (celebrity on image 1)! They are boring. AG – I don’t relate with her style (celebrity on image 1). She is absolutely gorgeous but the way she dresses does not appeal to me. Even if she were buying a brand that I like it wouldn’t influence me on purchasing. SR – Me too. IP – In order to influence me, I have to relate with the celebrity, which isn’t the case. FS – I like the third celebrity, she is gorgeous and well dressed. I relate with her style, it is trendy. JM – it’s Blake lively! I like her! SR – I would follow this celebrity although I can’t have a Chanel package! She is trendy. AG – No, the second one! I don’t like her or her style. I prefer to follow the style of the first celebrity. TL – me too. SR – I feel that these celebrities target different age segments JG – But all of them are from the same generation as you. SR – Really? Oh, I wouldn’t tell. JM – I think their style makes them look older. However, the influence is not always about the celebrity but the clothes they are wearing. When you are reading through magazines and you see a particular outfit from a celebrity that appeals to you, and even if you don’t buy the exact brand she is wearing, you will look for an inexpensive alternative in stores. AG – I think that the third one is OK. TL – I like all of their styles, excluding the second one. Do you feel that your opinions are affected by the fact that the second image refers to a Portuguese celebrity? AG – No, I don’t. There are other Portuguese celebrities that I like, such as Claudia Vieira. She is trendy and beautiful. JM – not at all. There are many Portuguese celebrities that appeal to me (e.g. TV hostess) TL – I agree, it’s not about that. It’s about the choice of celebrity. FS – I think it has to do with the fact that I don’t like her. Her style and the trends she follows never appealed to me. JG – So now I am going to ask you to read the four personal values when buying fashion that are being presented to you individually. Could you please rank them in order of importance, from

the most important value through the least important value and explain to the most important and the least important chosen values? SR – Functionality comes first, most of the clothes I buy have to be suitable for all occasions. In second comes individualism. I don’t see it as a statement for myself but more like a personality thing. The least important value for me is the sense of membership, which is not a big thing for me. I am not concerned to be part of a group, my friends know me too good to know that. JM – Individualism for me comes first because I have to choose the clothes that fit my personality. Functionality comes in second place because clothes have to be suitable for everyday wear. To be a bargain shopper is not an important thing for me and the least important value is sense of membership. I think that evolves with age, when I was a teenager I was more like that. TL – Functionality is the most important value for me. Sense of membership is the least important value not because I have the need to fit in my group of friends but because my friends and me have similar taste in clothes. IP – I chose the sense of membership as the most important value because when I shop I usually buy always the same type of clothes either for work or casual occasions. I don’t like to stand out. Functionality comes second because it has to be functional for everyday use. Individualism comes in third because sometimes I like to buy something that is more ‘’me’’. The least important value is bargain shopping. FS – Individualism comes first for me because I always buy clothes that I consider adaptable to my personality. For example, everyone has the little black dress, which is classic and I bought the little black dress with a personal trait of mine (can be either the cut or the colour). The least important value for me is sense of membership because me and my friends are very similar in the way we dress so there is no big difference between us, therefore, I don’t need to choose my clothes in order to fit in. AG – individualism comes first because I like to choose and buy clothes that are unconventional. Sense of membership comes in third place because I think that my friends and I all have similar tastes in clothes; therefore, we are part of a same group. And the least important value is bargain shopping because I shop according to what I want not thinking how much money I have available to spend. JG - Who do you look to for fashion ideas the most? (Family, friends, brands, social media, celebrities, magazines, media) JM – brands and friends. AG – in fashion brand stores. SR – in social media, fashion brand stores, media and friends. IP – friends and brands. TL – in fashion brand stores. FS – brands and social media. JG - What blogs do you look at for trend information? How often? SR – I sometimes read some Portuguese blogs but I don’t know the names… I don’t do it regularly. JM – None AG – None. IP – I don’t see any. TL – me too. FS – I don’t usually read fashion blogs. JG - Which magazines do you look at for trend information? How often? SR – sometimes Happy magazine (fashion and lifestyle) and I read fashion magazines such as VOGUE or Elle online regularly.

IP – lifestyle magazines with paparazzi pictures. JM – me too! I like to read that type of magazines to check celebrities and their outfits. AG – I don’t look for trend information through magazines. I prefer going directly to fashion stores to get that information. TL – me too. FS – yeah, me too. JG - How important are brands to you? Why? TL – because brands are the main source of trend information for me I think they are extremely important. SR – yes, I would say that they are important for me too. JM – in my opinion they are important because they act as trendsetters. For example, high-end brands like Chanel or Dior they are trendsetters and, although you cannot afford them you can go to Zara and grab something similar and affordable. AG – they are my main source too. Because of the existence of brands I know what is happening in terms of trends. TL – without brands most of us wouldn’t know what is on trend! Social media and the media are not as close to us as fashion brands. IP – I think the same way. FS – me too. JG - How do brands usually get your attention? SR – through their window display and the smell! I think the smell that you associate with a brand is important FS – through their brand communication (ads, outdoors and window display) JG – So would you say that the merchandising display and the store visuals get your attention? JM – yes, absolutely! AG – yeah! JG - How important are friends and family when deciding which clothes to buy? Why? FS – it is important but not to the point that my decision depends only on that. However, I take into account my friends opinions because I think they are always honest to me. IP – not important for me. SR – not important, especially family. AG – since I don’t usually go shopping with someone for me is not important. I feel that you have to be coherent with yourself. Either you go shopping alone and friend/family’s opinions are not important or you go shopping with friends and their opinions matter. JM – I think that it is fairly important. I am not too sensible to what they say but I take into account their opinions. TL – it is average because I always feel divided by their opinions and mine but I would say that their opinions count as well. JG - How would you define fashion opinion leaders? SR – being an opinion leader is beyond fashion, arts and aesthetics. I think that an opinion leader in fashion has to have brains! It can be anyone! FS – for me is an expert in the industry, someone that knows a lot about fashion. AG – a fashion opinion leader has to be an expert, someone like a fashion designer. IP – it is someone that works in the industry and wears extravagant and unconventional clothes.

TL – for me is someone that knows a lot about fashion. it is someone who is sensible to fashion and fashion trends. JM – In order to be considered an opinion leader that person has to have an intention. By this I mean that most opinion leaders don’t make any effort to be considered that way. They just breathe fashion and effortlessly give their opinions to their followers. It’s not a celebrity or a fashion blogger, for sure. JG - To what extent do opinion leaders influence your trend perception? Why? SR – they don’t influence my perception. However, if I relate to a new trend and an opinion leader is endorsing it or talking about it I might get influenced by he/she. AG – yes they influence my trend perception. But they don’t influence me on buying what they are selling. I don’t adhere to trends just because they say so. FS – the same happens to me. They do influence my perception but I don’t adopt the trends they are saying just because it’s them who are saying. IP – yeah, I agree. For the same reasons. TL –me too. JM – in a direct way they don’t influence my trend perception. However, the longer it takes after a trend is communicated to the masses the more I can be influenced by this new trend. Is there anything you would like to add? Thank you for your time

Appendix 37 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Tatiana Loio 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 1.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

2. Please take a look at the following images. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 2.1.Shopping with Family I don’t usually engage in this type of shopping style. I think that shopping with family is kind of boring and they usually don’t give honest opinions (specially my mother, which thinks that everything fits me well). 2.2. Shopping with friends I love to go shopping with my friends, especially when I am looking for something very particular or more expensive. I feel that they can help me decide on that. 2.3. Shopping alone I also enjoy going shopping alone 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores?

4.1. From the look of it is a multi branded street boutiques. Unappealing combination of colours and looks too clumsy! 4.2. Too much information in just one place. Most of the colours are, for me, unappealing. It is hard to distinguish between accessories, shoes and clothes. 4.3. Looks a bit clumsy and unappealing to the eyes. There is no clothing line or collection standing out from the rest. It looks like a regular person’s closet. 4.4. Bad lightning. The merchandising display should be more organized. 4.5. The shelves are either too empty or clumsy. Unappealing shoe and clothes display. 4.6 It looks organized and clear however, the overall display of the store is unappealing. 4.7 Even though the overall store is organized the lightning could be better (the store looks very ‘’shadowy’’)

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands. Could you please tell me adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Casual chic Looks expensive Elegant 2. Colcci Young Carefree Casual 3. Denny Rose Young 4. Just female Very feminine Classic style 5. Wrangler Casual and Young 6. Lee Very casual 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 2

Functionality - 1

Bargain shopper - 3

Appendix 38 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Andreia Garcez 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 6.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

10. Traditional/ hesitant 2. Please take a look at the following imager. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 1.Shopping with Family I find this boring. I don’t relate with this ‘’activity’’ because I always shop alone. 2. Shopping with friends I also don’t relate with this situation. I would much rather go alone to my favourite clothing stores and make my own decisions. However, if a friend requests for my help on deciding for something I willingly go with her. 3. Shopping alone This is exactly what I do. I relate with this situation, I love to go shopping with no one so I can decide and buy with no pressure. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores?

4.1. Very confusing. Very little organized. I like the decoration but it does not favour the clothes 4.2. Unappealing store window. The window is not showing much variety. The chosen pictures are not showing much of the collection. 4.3. Same as Image 1 4.4. Same as Image 1 4.5. Looks very dull and unattractive. There isn’t too much offer in the shelves. 4.6 It is well organized however, very plain and most of the colours are in the same place. 4.7 The usage of wood and decoration favours the store ambiance/ environment. Appealing display. The accessories inside the glass furniture in the middle do not catch my attention to it.

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Looks very ‘’geek wannabe’’ 2. Colcci Not my style, lack of personality in clothes, unnapealing 3. Denny Rose Not my style, lack of personality in clothes, unnapealing 4. Just female Sexy but I wouldn’t buy it for me because it is a mini skirt and has too much cleavage. Unattractive, dull and very monochromatic to my taste. 5. Wrangler Very young and too ‘’hipster’’ for me. 6. Lee I like this style. It has to do with my personality; I love the way it fits. 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 3

Individualistic - 1

Functionality - 2

Bargain shopper - 4

Appendix 39 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP â&#x20AC;&#x201C; projection technique individual responses Name: Sofia Rocha 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. Very confusing display of merchandising Poor lightning 4.2. I find the colours a bit annoying and unappealing There is no particular focus in this window. 4.3. Same impression as image 1. 4.4. Unappealing display of items however, with better lightning 4.5. Same impression as image 1. 4.6 It looks more organized and clear 4.7 The natural lightning coming from outside favours the store

2. Colcci Young. Too much information it looks unpractical to wear 3. Denny Rose Uninteresting and a bit ‘’tacky’’ 4. Just female Very elegant and feminine, Comfortable, Very modern, Stylish 5. Wrangler Cool, Young Lee Very ‘’countryside’’, Comfortable 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 2

Functionality - 1

4. Bargain shopper - 3 Appendix 40 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Joana Murta 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 10. Venturesome 11. Eager to experiment 12. Deliberate/ cautious 13. Skeptical 14. Traditional/ hesitant

I feel that this is my ideal situation. It is when I choose more wisely the clothes I want to buy because I don’t feel pressured by my friends to buy a certain garment or piece of clothing. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. I find this colour arrangement unappealing. 4.2. Very little space for too much clothes and hangers. I can’t tell what is the main collection being sold. 4.3. Same impression as image 1. 4.4. The store looks very and you can distinguish the items by collection and colours. However, the overall look is unappealing. 4.5. Same impression as image 1. 4.6 it has a clear and minimalistic look which appeals to me 4.7 Looks very organized and appealing. The store looks like it has a customized service.

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Casual chic. Very stylish and comfortable 2. Colcci Young and ‘’tacky’’ 3. Denny Rose Young and ‘’tacky’’ 4. Just female Affordable and party look. Casual and young 5. Wrangler cool 6. Lee Very cosy and comfortable 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 1

Functionality - 2

Bargain shopper – 3

Appendix 41 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Filipa Santos 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

2. Please take a look at the following images. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 1.Shopping with Family Overall I like to go shopping with someone, all the times. So this is a fun situation for me. 2. Shopping with friends This is an ideal situation for me; I usually love the company of my friends when shopping. We like to do some window-shopping and share our ideas about fashion trends. 3. Shopping alone I think this situation is boring. I don’t usually go shopping by myself. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. It is organized. The clothes look ‘’high quality’’. 4.2. Clean and sophisticated window look due to the colour display and item arrangement. 4.3. looks clumsy. 4.4. Unattractive for me 4.5. I don’t like the decoration therefore it is unattractive for me. 4.6 Too much shadow it looks unappealing to me. 4.7 The store display is appealing.

3. Denny Rose Young Very alternative 4. Just female Classic yet elegant, Very clean and simple look 5. Wrangler Rebel and young 6. Lee Elegant Young 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 1

Functionality - 2

4. Bargain shopper - 3

Appendix 42 GENERATION Y FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Inês Pontes 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 4.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. Too much colour Too clumsy if I entered this store I wouldn’t know where to start first. 4.2. Too much pink. Very organized. 4.3. Chunks of clothes everywhere, looks clumsy for me. 4.4. Poor lightning Unorganized display of clothes 4.5. Unappealing decoration and shoe display. Poor lightning. 4.6 Unattractive display of colours Very dark and ‘’shadowy’’ 4.7 Poor lightning and unorganized.

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Very formal but young 2. Colcci Young and carefree. 3. Denny Rose Young Cute 4. Just female Young and perfect for a night out Very basic and carefree 5. Wrangler Casual and different 6. Lee Young and too relaxed 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 1

Individualistic - 3

Functionality - 2

Bargain shopper - 4

Appendix 43 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Patricia Ferreira 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 1.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

2. Please take a look at the following imager. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 1.Shopping with Family Very usual when you are younger and you can’t decide by yourself. 2. Shopping with friends For me is boring. However, it can be a good thing if you want to gather different perspectives and opinions about your purchase decision. 3. Shopping alone Ideal situation: I decide by myself and nothing else matters. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. Too much clothes and very unclear to choose which clothes to buy. 4.2. The items are arranged in an appealing way. 4.3. Too much clothes in the same place, very confusing it looks like a warehouse. I wouldn’t go to this store. 4.4. Unattractive display of items I wouldn’t enter in this store. 4.5. Same as Image 4 4.6 It looks a bit more organized and clear but the store is not appealing overall. 4.7 It looks appealing and spacious.

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Very unrealistic body sizes. Unappealing clothes 2. Colcci Too much ‘’bad boy/bad girl’’ feeling for my taste 3. Denny Rose Unappealing clothes Models are too skinny 4. Just female This is the look that appeals to me the most Very cute and feminine dress I would wear this. 5. Wrangler Don’t relate with this look/ brand offer.

6. Lee Although I wouldn’t wear this look it is appealing to me 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 1

Functionality - 2

Bargain shopper – 3

Appendix 44 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Carla Garcez 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 11. Venturesome 12. Eager to experiment 13. Deliberate/ cautious 14. Skeptical 15. Traditional/ hesitant

4.1. Clothes are placed in chunks it doesn’t attract my attention 4.2. The window shows some effort, time and thought. 4.3. Same impression as image 1. 4.4. It looks organized. The store looks spacious and more pleasant to walk in. 4.5. The shoes have this ‘’local’’ brand feeling. The shelves are well organized and clean looking. 4.6 It looks well organized and it appeals to me. 4.7 Good lightning. 6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Very classic Love this brand! 2. Colcci Very practical. I don’t know this brand. Denny Rose Very ‘’teenager’’ for me 4. Just female Very feminine 5. Wrangler A classic! 6. Lee Timeless, never goes out of fashion! 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 3

Individualistic - 4

Functionality - 1

Bargain shopper - 2

Appendix 45 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Sonia Pires 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. It is confusing and unappealing 4.2. It is very unclear. Poor lightning. 4.3. Same impression as image 1. 4.4 The colour arrangement is a bit unorganized 4.5. Very dull for me 4.6. Too dark! It is unappealing to me. 4.7 The store looks neat and tidy but I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t decide whether I like or not.

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Very masculine 2. Colcci Military look Adventurous 3. Denny Rose Casual Comfortable I like it! 4. Just female Very pretty, simple and cute. Very dull to me 5. Wrangler Too young for me, I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like this type of look. 6. Lee Comfortable 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value.

Sense of belonging - 3

Individualistic - 2

Functionality - 1

Bargain shopper - 4

Appendix 46 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Catarina Correia 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

2. Please take a look at the following imager. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 1.Shopping with Family Normally, this is boring for me. Both me and my mother have different styles therefore I prefer shopping alone. 2. Shopping with friends Same impression as image 1. 3. Shopping alone This is fun! I prefer shopping alone. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. The window lacks good taste and is a bit confusing. 4.2. Too clumsy for me Poor lightning 4.3. It looks clumsy 4.4 The shelves and the display is unattractive for me 4.5 There is a lack of modernity in this store 4.6 Good lightning Looks organized and clear. 4.7 The store looks spacious and organized

6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia The models look anorectic – I don’t relate with this. Basic wear 2. Colcci Casual 3. Denny Rose Ugly design Uninteresting 4. Just female Plain and simple 5. Wrangler Tacky and dull 6. Lee Elegant and classic 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 3

Functionality - 1

Bargain shopper - 2

Appendix 47 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Sofia Reis 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t usually do this, is boring. However, when I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have purchase power I used to go shopping with my mother. 2. Shopping with friends If I want to go to a shopping centre and just browse I will go with friends. 3. Shopping alone This is my ideal situation. I prefer going alone so I can spend all the time that I want on choosing, trying and buying. 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. The first thing that comes to my eyes is the AC on top of the clothes, which makes it look unattractive. The store has poor lightning 4.2. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tell what is being sold in the window display. 4.3. Poor lightning. There are no specific criteria for the clothes organization. 4.4 I like this store environment; it has an alternative look that is appealing to me. The lightning is good. These clothes are well arranged. 4.5. same impression as image 4. 4.6. it looks boring and uninteresting because the colour arrangement is very monochrome and dull. The lightning does not favour the store. 4.7. a very intimate and cosy feeling is created through the chosen lights. The glass furniture in the middle is out of the context of the store. 6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands? 1. Hoss Intropia Boring and dull 2. Colcci Very thematic for my taste. 3. Denny Rose Boring and out of fashion. 4. Just female I would give this dress a try. Simple yet elegant 5. Wrangler Very thematic for my taste 6. Lee I like this brand 6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value. 1.

Sense of belonging - 3

Individualistic - 4

Functionality - 2

Bargain shopper - 1

Appendix 48 GENERATION X FOCUS GROUP – projection technique individual responses Name: Sara Pereira 1. Please choose one personal feature that best describes your personal individual personality when adopting a trends and write down in a paper. 5.

Venturesome

Eager to experiment

Deliberate/ cautious

Skeptical

Traditional/ hesitant

2. Please take a look at the following imager. These are three different images of consumers shopping alone, with friends and family. Could you please indicate which ones you find boring and fun? What are your first impressions when looking at each picture? 1.Shopping with Family This is boring for me. If you go shopping with family is because you feel insecure or lack of selfconfidence 2. Shopping with friends This is fun for me. Shopping = socializing. 3. Shopping alone I enjoy shopping alone, it is fun! 4. Please take a look at the following images. These are seven different images of fashion retail stores (local retailers). Could you please write down inside the bubbles the first impressions that you get from this stores? 4.1. Too much lightning. 4.2. Confusing. You can’t tell what is being sold in here. 4.3. Too much clutter. It looks clumsy. 4.4 Too confusing. Not organized 4.5. Poor lightning 4.6. It looks neat and well organized 4.7. Very poor lightning 6. Please take a look at the following images six different brands (selected brands form retailers). Could you please tell me the adjectives that, in your opinion, best describe these brands?

1. Hoss Intropia These clothes are only for skinny people! 2. Colcci Nonchalant 3. Denny Rose Very practical and functional 4. Just female Feminine Practical 5. Wrangler Young 6. Lee It looks comfortable, I like this look!

6. Please rank each personal value when shopping, in order of importance, from the most important through the least important value.

Sense of belonging - 4

Individualistic - 2

Functionality - 1

Bargain shopper - 3

Appendix 49 - INTERVIEW CONSENT FORM Title of project: An exploratory study of how fashion trends diffuse within generation X and Y in Portugal.

1. I have had the opportunity to consider the information, ask questions and I have had these answered satisfactorily. 2. I understand that my participation is voluntary and that I am free to withdraw at any time without giving any reason, without my legal rights being affected. 3. This interview will give the researcher greater insight into the factors affecting trend adoption of female consumers from different generations in Portugal. 4. My answers will be kept confidential. This means that the researcher will not use my name and my responses will not be shared with anyone else. 5. If I have any questions about the research I can call the researcher and she will answer all the questions I have. The researcher is Joana Garcez. Her phone number is 00351 916432966.

I ___________________, agree to take part in the interview for research titled ‘’ an exploration of how trends diffuse within generation X and Y in Portugal’’ confirm that I have read and understand the information provided above

______________________________________________________________ Signature of participant Date

______________________________________________________________ Signature of researcher Date

Appendix 50 - FOCUS GROUP CONSENT FORM Title of project: An exploratory study of how fashion trends diffuse within generation X and Y in Portugal.

1. I have had the opportunity to consider the information, ask questions and I have had these answered satisfactorily. 2. I understand that my participation is voluntary and that I am free to withdraw at any time without giving any reason, without my legal rights being affected. 3. This focus group interview will give the researcher greater insight into the factors affecting trend adoption of female consumers from different generations in Portugal. 4. My answers will be kept confidential. This means that the researcher will not use my name and my responses will not be shared with anyone else. 5. If I have any questions about the research I can call the researcher and she will answer all the questions I have. The researcher is Joana Garcez. Her phone number is 00351 916432966.

I ___________________, agree to take part in the focus group for research titled ‘’ an exploration of how trends diffuse within generation X and Y in Portugal’’ confirm that I have read and understand the information provided above

______________________________________________________________ Signature of participant Date

______________________________________________________________ Signature of researcher Date

Appendix 51 – Fashion Blog ‘’ Vision of a dreamer’’ from Joana Peixoto (Source: www.visionofadreamer.com)

Appendix 52– Fashion Blog ‘’style www.styleandexpect.wordpress.com)

and

expect

‘’

from

Joana

Duarte

(Source:

Appendix 53 – Fashion Blog ‘’Last Minute Dreams’’ from Carolina Flores (Source: www.lastminutedreams.net)