Jackson Hole Magazine // Winter 2025

Jackson Hole

MOOSE ON THE

Although closely associated today with Jackson Hole, the species only moved into the valley about a century ago.

LOOSE

“Art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life.” - Pablo Picasso

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ARTWORK DETAILS - John Nieto : Offering For the Return of the Buffalo, 1995, David Frederick Riley : Watchful, Geoffrey Gersten : The Cowboy The Cowboy The Cowboy

JENNA VON BENEDIKT

PATRICIA A. GRIFFIN

AMBER BLAZINA

CARRIE WILD

SILAS THOMPSON

AARON HAZEL

Roger Ore • Teton Gold • 40x30 • Oil

Alfredo Rodriguez • By Rivers and Valleys • 24x30 • Oil

Mark Keathley • New Horizons • 30x40 • Oil

Shannon Marie • Queen of the Tetons • 48x36

Acrylic

Beth Loftin • Native Girl • 30x30

Oil Trey McCarley

The Young and the Old

48x60

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Barbara Allen & Bill VanGelder

WINTER STATE OF MIND

Unwind slopeside with a soothing spa treatment after a day of winter adventures, or savor regionally inspired cuisine that celebrates the vibrant flavors of the American West.

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cfjacksonhole.org

Did you know that Jackson Hole hosts over 340 species of birds? Let’s celebrate that!

The first annual Jackson Hole Birding Festival is coming to Jackson in May 2025. It will be one of the funnest and best festivals of the year — right in our own backyard!

Whether you’re new to birding or your eagle eyes have seen it all, we have something special for you! www.jacksonholebirdingfestival.com

As an artist owned and operated gallery, Sonia is known for her magnificent Sun collection and one of a kind fine jewelry designs. The gallery complements Sonia's beautiful designs with an array of well curated Arts, Minerals, Crystals and one of a kind finds.

Come on in! You will surely find ''what tickles your heart''

Homeowner Services Tailored To You

As a Homeowner Liaison, Morgan Buss is committed to exceptional client service and attention to detail. As a dedicated, local partner to each homeowner, Morgan crafts tailored programs to enhance the Jackson Hole home ownership experience.

Morgan Buss, Homeowner Liaison

FEATURES

JACKSON HOLE

WINTER 2025

ON THE COVER: Laura Roman and Larry Dalton got this image of sparring bull moose along Antelope Flats Road. Wildlife biologists by training and husband and wife, Roman and Dalton say wildlife photography is a great excuse to watch animals: “We get to see a lot of great behavior."

108

MOOSE ON THE LOOSE

One of Jackson Hole’s most iconic large ungulates, moose, only showed up in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem about a century ago. At first, they thrived, but then the population crashed. It still hasn’t come back.

BY MIKE KOSHMRL

118

POSTAL ... SERVICE?

Sorting the ins and outs of mail delivery in Jackson Hole.

BY EMILY

COHEN

126

PHOTO GALLERY: THE WILDLIFE BIOLOGIST BEHIND THE LENS

Mark Gocke’s photographs show the hidden—human—side of wildlife management.

BY BILLY ARNOLD

134

SNOW SCIENCE

The job of an avalanche forecaster isn’t all sunshine and powder— they’re charged with nothing less than keeping the skiing and driving public safe. BY BILLY ARNOLD

Moose can often be seen wading in Fish Creek near Wilson.

Bank

Locally, Explore Freely

Since 1982, Bank of Jackson Hole has helped guide your financial decisions. Whether saving for an adventure or investing in your future, we are here for your success.

HOWDY

EDITOR'S LETTER

Aconfession: last winter I got kind of down on the season. Snow was slow to come and then, in February and March, it was graybird pretty much every day. I began to forget what the sun and shadows looked like. Were there any colors in nature beyond white (snow), brown (dirty snow and tree trunks), gray (the sky), and dark green (needles on pine trees)? Was the sky ever a color that wasn’t a shade of gray?

And then, one morning in mid-March, I drove the 17 miles from my house to Astoria Hot Springs. It was as gray of a day as it had been, but jumping between the hot pools and the cold plunge, watching the blanket of clouds twist and wrinkle itself overhead, I came to my senses—even a gray day(s) in Jackson Hole is better than a blue-sky day pretty much anywhere else.

On the way home, I stopped at Snow King and rode the gondola for several laps (that was as long as my quads could handle skiing the resort’s Exhibition run). And then, even though it was

late in the day, I popped into the downtown outpost of Persephone Bakery Café to see if the James Beard-recognized bakery had any sweet treats left (they were sold out of everything that had been baked that morning but had Rice Krispies treats and bags of chocolate chip cookies; I got one of each).

I then spent the rest of March, and much of April, making up for the winter I had poohpoohed—fat biking and hiking up Cache Creek in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, skiing at Snow King and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, and backcountry skiing in Grand Teton National Park. Perhaps the highlight of the second half of my winter was doing a day-trip into Yellowstone with my niece … and then writing about it for this issue (“Winter Wonderland,” p. 154).

Perhaps I would have come out of my slump sooner if I had had Bevin Wallace’s article about the winter blues and seasonal affective disorder to read (“Don’t Be SAD,” p. 94).

Also in this winter’s issue are tips for (and photos of) gorgeous home saunas (“Hot Design,” p. 88); a look at the iconic Corbet’s Cabin (p. 44); and an article in which writer Helen Olsson got acclaimed Jackson-based pastry chef Oscar Ortega to share six of his favorites out of the dozens of chocolate confections he makes (“Don’t Call These Candy,” p. 72).

We’ve got more in-depth articles too, including a piece by Mike Koshmrl about moose, which, evidently are relative newcomers to Jackson Hole (“Moose on the Loose,” p. 108). The species only began pushing this far south about a century ago. Journalist Emily Cohen traded the airwaves—she’s the executive director of Jackson’s nonprofit community radio station KHOL 89.1—for print to write an article about the valley’s post offices and why locals love to hate them, which, as a local who has had many improperly addressed packages returned to their senders, I find #funnynotfunny.

As always, I and the rest of the team behind Jackson Hole magazine hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together.

— DINA MISHEV @JACKSONHOLEMAG

KATIE COONEY

SKIING

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Jackson Hole

What is your favorite piece of winter clothing?

A Skhoop down skirt because it keeps my butt warm on chairlifts and when hiking up the Mt. Glory bootpack.

Steger Mukluk boots are warm and naturally water resistant, and their gummy soles keep me from slipping and falling when walking on

My Carhartt shearling-lined jacket. When I’m walking dogs on a winter morning, it’s bombproof and, unlike a puffy, doesn’t rip when they’re jumping on me for treats.

Blundstones—they’re the perfect boot as they keep my feet warm and dry (and go with virtually any outfit).

Insulated Japanese commercial fishing gloves; they’re inexpensive, durable, and dexterous.

My Smartwool quarter-zip Merino top because it’s the perfect base layer for skiing and it also looks great with jeans for après-ski or out to dinner.

PUBLISHER

Adam Meyer

EDITOR

Dina Mishev

ART DIRECTOR

Elise Mahaffie

PHOTO EDITOR

Bradly J. Boner

COPY EDITOR

Bevin Wallace

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Molly Absolon Billy Arnold

Emily Cohen Mike Koshmrl

Jim Mahaffie Brigid Mander

Lila Margaret Helen Olsson

merino wool base layers; they are soft, warm, and keep me comfortable every day.

Nothing better than slipping on a big, fluffy Stio fleece shirt when coming in from cold weather activities; it’s cozy and super warm!

I dig my Kinco gloves—$20 at the hardware store.

Fingerless wool gloves; they allow for the most dexterity when walking my two dogs (and picking up after them)!

Jenn Rice Whitney Royster

Joey Sackett Samantha Simma

Maggie Theodora Rachel Walker Bevin Wallace

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Erin Burk Stephen Clark

Ryan Dorgan Tuck Fauntleroy

Joey Sackett Derek Stal

Kathryn Ziesig

ADVERTISING SALES

Alyson Klaczkiewicz

DIGITAL CAMPAIGN MANAGER

Tatum Mentzer

AD DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Sarah Wilson Luis F. Ortiz

Heather Haseltine Lydia Redzich

Chelsea Robinson

DISTRIBUTION

Jayann Carlisle

Oscar Garcia Perez

Kevin B. Olson, CEO P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, WY 83002 | 307/732-5900

A pair of Patagonia liner gloves that I don’t even own yet but are the answer to a decadeslong search: bright and colorful liner gloves!

My flannel pajamas, because the days are cold and the nights are long.

©2025 Jackson Hole magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this production may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. No responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited editorial contributions. Manuscripts or other material to be returned must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope adequate to return the material. Jackson Hole magazine is published semiannually. Send subscription requests to: Jackson Hole magazine, P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, Wyoming 83002. 307/732-5900. Email: dina@jhmagazine.com. Visit jacksonholemagazine.com.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Budge Kelley Realty Group

Your trusted real estate advisors in Jackson Hole for over 35 years. Backed by a locally owned brokerage powered by the #1real estate company in the world.

JENN RICE (“Why Chinatown is Always in Fashion ,” p. 76) is a nomadic food and travel journalist with over a decade of international digital and print experience. She splits her time between the Southeast U.S., Mountain West, Hawaii, and Europe. She always finds her way back to Jackson Hole, a place that still feels like home when she visits. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Wine Enthusiast, Vogue, the Washington Post, AFAR, Condé Nast Traveler, and more. @jennricewrites BUDGEKELLEY.COM team@budgekelley.com

JOEY SACKETT (“Wild Ice,” p. 142) is a freelance adventure photographer who has shot for brands including Patagonia, Marmot, Stio, and Coal Headwear. His camera allows him to chase his curiosity of both the natural and human world. You may find him in the Tetons jaunting around or trying to talk to ravens, and he has found himself atop the tallest mountains of both North and South America. In town, he’s a proud member of the Shelter JH housing advocacy union. You can’t miss him and his Toyota minivan with a log for a bumper. @jsack_foto

CONTRIBUTORS

BILLY ARNOLD (“The Wildlife Biologist Behind the Lens,” p. 126) is the environmental reporter at the Jackson Hole News&Guide, where he covers wildlife, wild places, and wild people—and seeks stories at the intersection of the three. Harvesting a road-killed moose on the side of a busy Teton County highway? Give him a call. Originally from the Northeast, Billy is always amazed by things he didn’t discover until his 20s, like an aspen grove called Pando in Colorado—the largest living organism on the planet.

EMILY COHEN (“Living History,” p. 84 and “Postal ... Service?,” p. 118) is the executive director of KHOL 89.1 FM, Jackson Hole’s public radio station and the only community radio station in the state of Wyoming. While she wears many hats in her role, Emily most enjoys the craft of impactful storytelling. Her reporting has aired on stations across the West including Wyoming Public Radio, KUER, KUNC, and Aspen Public Radio. She loves playing the fiddle and playing in the snow.

LOCAL LIFE

PEOPLE AND PLACES THAT ARE JACKSON HOLE

AT THE INAUGURAL Ski in Jeans Day at Jackson Hole Montain Resort in December 2023, the goal was to set a new world record for the most people skiing/riding in jeans. With 3,114 denim-clad skiers and snowboarders, JHMR crushed the previous record of 102 people set by New Zealand's The Remarkables Ski Area. JHMR's second-annual Ski in Jeans Day was December 7, 2024.

Full Circle

// BY MOLLY ABSOLON

Carl Pelletier is helping shape a new outdoor recreational management track for local high school students.

arl Pelletier doesn’t like to talk about himself. He’d prefer to discuss the climbing gym at the Rec

tored him over the years during his varied career as a climber, educator, and outdoor brand rep. But behind esty, Pelletier has a knack for getting things done. And now he’s using that skill to develop an outdoor recreation

“Our goal will be to take kids down ational management. It’s a humongous field with tons of opportunities,” Pelletier says. “Kids can get hard skills pretty easily around here, but I see velop soft skills, like how to work with

Pelletier read a lot of textbooks this past summer to get up to speed for his new position as a career and technical education instructor in Foundations of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism. Those books covered ership to the economics of outdoor recreation, as well as camp cooking and map reading. This fall he taught agement and leadership at the high school. He plans to build on these subjects as the program grows, just as his deep dive into textbooks added to what he’s learned working decades in

For Pelletier, this new job brings him ters degree from Clemson University

ReadsGood

// BY JIM MAHAFFIE

ICONIC SKIERS

The Arc of Skiing Jackson Hole— 45 Years Behind the Lens

Wade McKoy

in parks and recreation and then taught 7th through 12th graders at a small private Christian school in Colorado. While teaching everything from economics to comparative religion, world literature, and algebra, Pelletier says he was only about one day ahead of his students in most subjects, which did not fall into his areas of expertise. But his adaptability and willingness to tackle just about anything regardless of his credentials boded well for his future success, and he has tried a little bit of everything over the years.

That first job also brought him to Colorado, where he fell in love with the West. He bounced around a bit before landing in the Tetons to lead trips for Wilderness Ventures. Following a woman, he spent a few years living in Utah, where he was the North American rep for Pieps avalanche beacons. Back in Jackson Hole, Pelletier found himself doing administrative work for Wilderness Ventures. When that job started to feel a bit like Groundhog Day, he jumped at the opportunity to fill in for a Town of Jackson employee on maternity leave. After that employee returned to work, Pelletier stayed on with the town, moving into special projects and personnel.

More recently, he managed the completion of the Teton County Rec Center’s new 9,700-foot climbing gym (read more about the climbing gym on page 32). Then, this past spring, just as the gym opened, he heard about the CTE instructor position at Jackson Hole High School, creating the outdoor recreational management track for the school’s Career and Technical Education program. The CTE program already included courses for students in the automotive, computer, construction, culinary, engineering, architecture, and horticulture fields. Outdoor recreational management and leadership seemed like a natural addition for Jackson.

“I think the main thing I’m excited about is getting as many different professionals from around the community into the class to talk to the students about what they do as I can,” Pelletier says. “The amount and depth of experience and professionalism in this town is mind-blowing. I hope to tap into that.” JH

Jackson Hole photographer Wade McKoy selected more than 500 images taken over four decades of “the Golden Age of skiing” for this volume. “My hope is that this book finds a permanent place in people’s homes and offices, something to enjoy and revisit for years. I want it to keep pulling viewers and readers back in like it does to me,” says McKoy.

DARK COMEDY Family Reunion

(Charon Family Adventure Book 1)

Rod Pennington

In the first in a five-book series by Jackson-based writer Rod Pennington, action, adventure, humor, and mystery combine for ex-CIA operative Michael Charon and his quirky, dysfunctional family—who also happen to be fellow assassins.

MEMOIR

Fi, A Memoir of My Son

Alexandra Fuller

Fi was the nickname for Fuller’s son, Charles Fuller Ross, who died suddenly at age 21 in 2018. Fi was raised in our area, and this beautiful book recounts Fuller’s journey to get back on an even keel after losing him. It takes her from a sheep wagon in Wyoming to a sanctuary in New Mexico and a silent retreat in Canada. It’s deep, disarming, and unexpectedly funny. Fuller also wrote The New York Times bestselling memoirs Don’t Let’s Go to the Dogs Tonight and Scribbling the Cat, among other works.

MOUNTAIN TOWN TRUTHS

Jackson Hole: Uneasy Eden by Warren Adler

These very relatable but fictional short stories capture the impacts tourists and newcomers have on a mountain resort town. The author was a longtime resident of Jackson who passed away in 2019 after years of gathering these poignant and powerful reflections of what he saw and felt as more and more new folks arrived in the Tetons. Among his many accomplishments, Adler helped found the Jackson Hole Writers Conference and was the chairman of the board of trustees of the Teton County Public Library. JH

Pelletier worked on the new climbing gym at the Teton County Rec Center during its construction but left for a new job before the gym opened last summer.

ERIN BURK

The TetonRecreationCountyCenter

A recent addition makes the Rec Center even more amazing.

Thirty years after the Teton County/Jackson Recreation Center first opened its doors, it just got a 38,000-square-foot, $33 million addition. Paid for by a special purpose excise tax passed by voters in 2019, the new space, which opened last summer, includes a 200-yard indoor walking/jogging track, freeweights and cardio machines, spin bikes, a yoga studio, an indoor climbing gym, basketball courts lined for volleyball and indoor soccer, childcare facilities, a food pantry, meeting space, and more.

This expansion has been a long time coming. As early as 2004, surveys showed the community supported adding onto the facility to better serve residents, but it took 20 years, three special purpose excise tax votes, two construction document packages, four master plans, and some creative budgeting to cover increased costs before those dreams were realized. Now the place is booming, and people are excited to use the new facility, especially on gray, gloomy days when exercising outside is uninspiring or impossible.

For nearly 30 years, St. John’s Health sponsored community health fairs, which provided residents with access to reduced-cost blood tests and screenings. In early 2024, the hospital phased out this service, saying patients should have doctor supervision to interpret test results accurately, and, therefore, it would no longer offer walk-in screenings. To help fill that void, the rec center has partnered with Wyoming Health Fairs to offer health screenings, perform blood draws, and deliver flu shots to the general public in a new wellness suite.

The new addition to the Teton County Recreation Center opened early last summer.

// BY MOLLY ABSOLON

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN BURK

A FAMILY-RUN DESIGN COLLECTIVE BUILDING ARTISTICALLY-INSPIRED HOMES FOR SALE NOW IN JACKSON HOLE, WY

At just under 10,000-square feet, the new climbing gym features 50 routes of varying difficulty, including three with auto-belays; as well as two bouldering walls and a 40-degree Moonboard that uses lights controlled through a phone app to identify different training routes. “I like to say that I climb indoors to train for climbing outside,” says international mountain guide Christian Santelices. “That’s true enough, but really, it’s just fun. What I am enjoying almost as much as the climbing is being around my community. I’ve been able to hang out with people I haven’t seen in years! As well as spend quality time with my partner and kids. We push each other, laugh, and do something that we love together. This social aspect is really important to me.”

One22 Resource Center, Jackson’s primary social services support organization, has established a serve-yourself satellite food pantry in the new lobby. Here people can pick up healthy staples like eggs, milk, fresh vegetables, fruit, and dry goods whenever the rec center is open. The pantry has no sign-up requirements, and clients can take whatever they need, making it a convenient resource for those seeking immediate food assistance. Plus it’s tucked in an out-of-the way corner, so those in need can pick up supplies in private without the fear of incurring judgment from others.

Getting in a good workout when you have young children at home can be challenging. To help parents out so they can attend to their own wellness, as well as the wellness of their children, the rec center offers drop-in day care for children two to six years old, Mondays through Fridays (hours vary, so check online at tetoncountywy. gov/2765/drop-in-daycare). A trained childcare professional provides supervision and enrichment for up to two hours for as many as eight children in a space in the new addition. Drop-in rates are $10 for nonresidents, $7 for residents, or you can buy a 10-punch card for $75 for nonresidents, $60 for residents.

Memberships at the gym cost $85 a month for nonresidents and $51 for residents. For the first time, residents include people who live as far away as 70 miles from downtown Jackson, a range that stretches south to Thayne and Daniel in Wyoming, and west over Teton Pass to Victor, Driggs, and Tetonia in Idaho. Prices were set to make the rec center accessible to all segments of the local population and are as much as 20 percent below the standard market rate for private gyms in the area. Steve Ashworth, the director of Teton County Parks and Recreation, says the goal with the fees is not to compete with private gyms, but rather to provide services that aren’t economical on a smaller, more boutique scale, such as indoor climbing and basketball courts. Including outlying communities in the new pricing was, according to Ashworth, “a recommendation by staff to recognize the greater regional community that is vital to the workforce of Jackson.” JH

JACKSON HOLE

LOCAL LIFE

Renny

// BY RACHEL WALKER

Jackson

Renny Jackson credits the Tetons with providing him a “fantastic life.”

Renowned alpinist, climbing ranger, and guidebook author Renny Jackson has dedicated his life to the mountains. Born in 1952 and raised in Salt Lake City, Renny grew up watching local climbers in Utah’s Big Cottonwood Canyon, spawning his fascination with scaling high peaks. At 18 he took his first climbing course, setting down a path that would define his career, passion, and relationships.

Jackson’s professional journey as a climbing ranger begin in 1976 in Grand Teton National Park. From 1976 to 1989, he worked as a seasonal

climbing ranger and spent winters ski patrolling, first in Utah, and then at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. “The jobs were complementary, and they kept me in the mountains year-round with time to climb on my own during the spring and fall,” he says.

His 34-year career with the National Park Service included roles as a mountain rescue and helicopter short-haul rescue specialist in both Grand Teton and Denali National Parks, and his exceptional service earned him three Department of Interior Valor awards.

Throughout his climbing career, Jackson achieved notable ascents and

first ascents. In 1984, he was part of the team that made the first ascent on the north face of Cholatse, elevation 21,128 feet, in the Himalayas. In 2004, he completed the winter Grand Traverse in the Tetons, climbing 10 peaks with a total of 25,000 vertical feet. He’s also climbed nine routes on Yosemite’s El Capitan and made an early alpinestyle ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in 1979.

With his late climbing partner, the preeminent Teton climbing historian Leigh Ortenburger, Jackson coauthored the definitive A Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range, now in its fourth edition, and he’s served on the board of directors of the American Alpine Club. Perhaps most significantly, he met his life partner climbing in the Tetons. Catherine Cullinane was the first woman guide with Exum Mountain Guides, and their adult daughter is also an avid climber. “The Tetons and Jackson Hole have provided me with a fantastic life,” he says. “I met my wife here, we had our only child here, and we were able to raise her in the small village of Kelly. This place is everything to me—as I am sure it was to the Indigenous people before we all took it over.”

Renny Jackson descends the north ridge of the Middle Teton en route to the Lower Saddle during his final season as a Grand Teton National Park climbing ranger in 2009.

HERE RENNY SHARES SOME HIGHLIGHTS FROM HIS

PETZOLDT RIDGE TO UPPER EXUM, GRAND TETON, GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Considered one of the best climbing routes on the south side of the Grand Teton, this classic, challenging climb begins with a fourth-class ascent on sustained, exposed rock before connecting to the Upper Exum with a 50-foot rappel. Famous pitches like the Golden Stair, Wind Tunnel, and Friction Pitch lead to the crux, the V Pitch, an exposed southwest-facing dihedral, followed by the Petzoldt Lieback near the summit. Rated 5.7 in difficulty, the climb showcases the rugged mountaineering, superlative views, and great rock qualities of the Teton Range.

KELLY, WYOMING

I am among an estimated 225 residents of this small historic town located in Grand Teton National Park that’s named for local rancher Bill Kelly. The town was nearly destroyed in 1927 when a dam formed by a massive landslide broke, and the Gros Ventre River flooded the area. Today it’s a quiet, rustic community renowned for its wildlife viewing, dispersed and campground camping, and unimpeded Teton views.

The Tetons and Jackson Hole have provided me with a fantastic life. I met my wife here, we had our only child here, and we were able to raise her in the small village of Kelly."

VALHALLA CANYON, GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Valhalla extends from the northwest flanks of Grand Teton and Mount Owen to Cascade Canyon. The remote one-and-a-half-milelong canyon is my cathedral. With its loose rock and potential ice, Valhalla Canyon is not a casual spot for an easy hike. But for those who are up for the challenge, it’s a reverence-inspiring destination of towering granite walls and cascading waterfalls.

DORNANS IN MOOSE

Arguably the best bar in the world, Dornans is a blend of rustic laissez faire and astonishing Teton views. Since 1948, it has fed and watered climbers, skiers, ranchers, and anyone else who wandered in. For nearly three decades, it's hosted the Jackson Hole Hootenanny, an open mic night for musicians of all abilities. Plus, it has one of the best wine shops in the West. (Editor's note: In the winter, the Hoot is at the Silver Dollar bar in Jackson.)

NORTH SIDE OF MAVERICK RIDGE, GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

Flanked by Teton peaks like the Grand Teton, Mount Hunt, and Static Peak, this prominent ridge has long attracted backcountry skiers with its protected northfacing aspect. It’s one of my favorite ski spots. Remember that while the skiing and the views are spectacular, backcountry skiing requires proper equipment, knowledge, and awareness of avalanche conditions. JH

JACKSON HOLE LIFE.

In 2016 Jackson climbed the Petzoldt Ridge on the Grand Teton with his daughter, Jane, and wife, Catherine, and family friend Michael Gardner, who died last October while attempting to summit an unclimbed peak in eastern Nepal.

RYAN DORGAN

// BY BEVIN WALLACE

Extreme Cold LOCAL LIFE

Suppose you’ve gotten to that point in the winter when you just don’t want to be cold anymore. In that case, Mammut’s Eigerjoch Pro IN Hooded Jacket—created for bivouacking in extreme conditions—combines RDS-certified goose down with PrimaLoft recycled synthetic insulation for extra warmth even when wet. An innovative double-chamber construction eliminates cold spots. $725, mammut.com

For days that go from bitter to brutal, or for stopand-start activities like alpine skiing, Fieldsheer’s Crest Heated Down Vest is filled with RDS duck down and has a 7.4-volt micro-heating system with four temperature settings that can be easily adjusted using your phone (via Bluetooth and an app). The Powersheer XL battery’s life is nine hours; it also has a built-in flashlight and phone charger. $200, fieldsheer.com

For high exertion in the cold, Brynje Norway’s Arctic Zip Polo Base Layer is made from a unique fabric that combines synthetic mesh with Merino wool. The mesh provides more insulating power than solid knit fabrics while allowing perspiration vapor to move to the outer layer. The wool outer layer traps the air inside the mesh cells to provide warmth while absorbing and wicking moisture away from the body. $180, brynjeusa.com

The coziest long johns we could find are Hot Chillys La Montaña Fleece Bottoms. Made from soft brushed micro-fleece, they are breathable and form-fitting, and feature stretch panels in the gusset areas for added comfort and maneuverability. $86, hotchillys.com

They might not be the most flattering thing you can wear, but you’ll appreciate the puffy warmth of Rab’s Argon Down Pants. Designed to be worn over a base layer, the pants are filled with 800-fillpower down treated with Nikwax’s fluorocarbonfree water-repellent finish. $220, rab.equipment

The Therm-A-Rest Honcho Poncho Down is like a sleeping bag you can wear around. It’s made from recycled polyester with a water-resistant coating and RDS-certified 650-fill Nikwax hydrophobic down that retains its warmth when wet. Throw this hoody on over everything, and then stuff it into its own front pocket for compact storage. $260, thermarest.com

The Trapper of Colorado 1876 Hat offers maximum warmth with mountain-man (or gal) style. It’s made from soft wool herringbone fabric with a quilted silk-satin lining and a faux curly lamb fur brim. $335, trapperofcolorado.com

A plush neck gaiter is a small thing that can make a big difference when you’re out in the cold. Made from Italian Micro Fur TecnoFleece, Turtle Fur’s Double-Layer Neck Warmer seals in heat and is extra-long to cover your neck, chin, and nose. $26, turtlefur.com

For long, cold winters, heated socks are a worthit luxury. Fieldsheer’s Premium 2.0 Merino Heated Socks feature the company’s Mobile Warming technology for up to 10 hours of warmth with four heat settings. The underfoot heating elements are virtually undetectable with the sock’s ample cushioning, and the rechargeable batteries tuck into their own pockets on the upper calf. $80, fieldsheer.com

Heated gloves you won’t want to—or need to— take off all winter, Outdoor Research’s Prevail Heated Gore-Tex Gloves feature battery-powered heat (with rechargeable lithium-ion batteries) and touchscreen compatibility that allows you to use your phone without removing the gloves. They also have a waterproof and windproof GoreTex insert to keep hands dry and a leather palm for added durability. $339, outdoorresearch.com

With 400 grams of PrimaLoft insulation, a removable felt sock liner, and an aluminum shield below the foot to effectively block the cold, the Helly Hansen Arctic Patrol Boots have a certified thermal rating of –22 to –40 Fahrenheit. Their waterproof rubber shell and coated textile upper with sealed seams keep moisture out. The boots are protective yet flexible, and the serrated rubber soles provide traction on slippery surfaces. $160, hellyhansen.com JH

LOCAL LIFE

Insulated Drinking Vessels

// BY MAGGIE THEODORA

A Yeti-strong French press with a ceramic-lined inner chamber surrounded by double-walled vacuum insulation.

A double-walled 9-ounce flask that is both smartly and elegantly designed, includes a 3-ounce sake-glass-inspired shooter magnetically integrated into it, and controls the temp of its contents for 24 hours.

ZOJIRUSHI STAINLESS STEEL TRAVEL MUG

WHAT IS IT

A lightweight, slim travel mug with a locking, leakproof lid (that we totally trust) that comes in 12-, 16-, and 20-ounce versions.

STRENGTHS

The foolproof lid-locking mechanism can be operated with one hand. There’s a model with a Teflon interior (model SM-SR) and also one with an electro-polished stainless-steel interior (SM-SHE).

WEAKNESSES

Can we complain about it keeping things too hot? Six hours into a ski tour on a day with temps below zero, the tea in our Zojirushi burned our mouth.

BEST FOR

Resort skiers and riders who want to sip the hot beverage of their choice in between runs from a vessel they can carry in the pocket of their jacket; fast-and-light backcountry travelers.

DETAILS

$52; available at shop.zojirushi.com

In addition to keeping coffee hot for hours, the plunger separates the liquid from the grounds (postplunging), which keeps the coffee from getting bitter as it sits. All parts are dishwasher-safe.

The lid locks on with a quick twist, but, because of the spout, it is not leak-proof.

The bottom screws off, allowing for easy cleaning and funnel-free filling and, more importantly, adding ice. Electroglass clean technology ensures the flavor of the flask’s contents stays pure.

Surprising your ride to the trailhead or resort (and any other friends in the car) with a delicious cup of French press coffee.

$110; available at REI, 974 W. Broadway Ave., and yeti.com

Focused more on performance and quality than weight, the 9-ounce Torch weighs 12.2 ounces. (We have a 6-ounce titanium pocket flask that weighs only 3.2 ounces, but it isn’t insulated and requires a funnel to fill it.)

When you want to stylishly celebrate a day’s successful outdoor adventure with a cocktail.

$109; available at highcampflasks.com

YETI

STANLEY CLASSIC LEGENDARY BOTTLE 2.5 QT 4 5

A thermos that is hard to dent or otherwise damage, is big enough to hold hot drinks for the whole family, and has a leakproof one-cup cap that doubles as a mug.

The Cup Cap turns any of Yeti’s insulated Rambler water bottles, which come in a range of sizes from 18 to 64 ounces, into a thermos, but better looking and functioning.

STANLEY QUENCHER H2.0 FLOWSTATE 40 OUNCE TUMBLER

6

A social-media-famous tumbler that comes in dozens of colors, keeps drinks hot or cold for hours, has an ergonomic handle, and fits into a car cupholder.

This thermos had us with the fact that it is dishwasher-safe. If that’s not enough for you, it is also easy to hold and pour from and keeps hot drinks hot for an entire ski day.

This isn’t made for the backcountry; when it’s full, it weighs about 8 pounds.

Unlike other thermos lids, Yeti’s Cup Cap is insulated, ensuring that your hot beverage of choice stays hot once poured into it. Unlike other thermoses, Rambler bottles don’t have handles, so they are easier to carry in bags and backpacks.

The 18-ounce Rambler bottle with a Cup Cap weighs about 1.3 pounds—this is not for the fastand-light crowd. Most sizes are too big to fit into a standard car cupholder.

The FlowState lid has a rotating top with three positions: a wide-mouth opening, a straw, or closed.

Rounds of hot chocolate on the drive home from Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

Parking lot après; this can keep hot toddies (or tea) hot, even when left in a freezing car for hours.

The FlowState lid’s positions do not include one that makes it leak-proof; this is not a tumbler to throw into your ski bag.

Fitting in with the cool moms on TikTok, also keeping hydrated throughout your day at home, in the office, or on the road.

$55.50; available at stanley1913.com

Rambler bottles start at $30, Cup Cap, $30; available at yeti.com

$45; available at stanley1913.com JH

RAMBLER BOTTLE + CUP CAP

LOCAL LIFE

JACKSON HOLE ICON

Corbet’s Cabin

A place to retreat and gather.

// BY LILA EDYTHE

A STRUCTURE WAS first built near the summit of Rendezvous Mountain in the early 1960s; it was simple, and its purpose was to provide shelter and storage for the crews building JHMR’s original tram. When construction on the tram was finished in 1966 and Rendezvous Mountain opened to skiers, the building was still primarily utilitarian—ski patrol assembled the bombs it used for avalanche control in it, and, eventually, there was also a radio room—but it did have a small area skiers could come into to escape the elements and get a snack. For the first several years of its existence, the building, which was known as Mountain Station and didn’t have any foundation, was secured to the mountain with cables so it didn’t blow away. (The cables were removed after a few additions had been tacked onto it.)

The size and look of the small part of the building accessible to the public wasn’t substantially changed until the Kemmerer Family bought the resort in 1992. Connie Kemmerer had spent

significant time skiing in Europe and saw the potential to turn it into something like the rifugios that dot the slopes of ski resorts in the Alps. “I wanted a place that you could retreat to and gather in,” she says. “Corbet’s Cabin as it existed before felt like a neglected shack.”

In the fall of 1994, Kemmerer worked with Herb Brooks, who had started working at JHMR (then the Jackson Hole Ski Corp.) in December 1974, and others to realize her vision. Bathrooms with composting toilets (flush toilets weren’t an option since the building doesn’t have any running water) were added, new windows were put in, benches were built, cabinets installed, and mountain-y décor purchased and installed. (To date, the bathrooms are the only part of the building with a foundation.)

The improved building, renamed Corbet’s Cabin, opened at the beginning of the ’94–95 ski season and has been a place to gather, warm up, and calm down ever since. JH

PROFILE

Dan Adams

Avalanche safety educator and advocate

// BY RACHEL WALKER

Dan Adams founded Next Level Clinics to teach backcountry safety and riding skills to snowmobilers.

To hear Dan Adams tell it, the Jackson-born lifelong Wyoming resident is not a natural leader. This, despite his having played a massive role in educating countless snowmobilers about the hazards of avalanches and how to safely sled in the backcountry. Or despite his longstanding partnerships with Polaris and Klim—which go back more than 15 years and 10 years, respectively. Though he was a former Slednecks movie star and professional freeride athlete who cut his teeth in the Tetons and circled the globe in pursuit of steep slopes and deep powder.

He says it wasn’t natural leadership that spurred him to create and run two successful small business, the winter-based Next Level Riding Clinics and Blacktop Pros in the summer. Rather, he credits his role as a leader in avalanche safety and education, not to mention as a world-class snowmobile guide, to diligent and repetitive practice and a hungry appetite for knowledge.

“I became one through lots and lots of practice, which doesn’t make us perfect, but can make us more prepared,” he says.

His practice began in earnest on Dec. 2, 2007. The now-49-year-old was sledding with his friends in the backcountry on a day that professional forecasters had designated as a high risk for avalanches. The group was in an exposed area and, in Adams’s words, “having a great time.” If the snowpack signaled its weakness fracturing on the surface or making a whoomphing sound as the layers within collapsed under the stress of the group, Adams and his friends didn’t hear it over the sound of music and revving engines. In fact, they didn’t see the avalanche until it was upon them and buried one of Adams’s best friends for five terrifying minutes. “I had the right equipment with me, but no experience, no

plan,” Adams says. Luck spared his friend’s life. While probing the snow, Adams’s older brother hit the buried friend’s helmet, and the crew frantically dug him out.

That “massive wake-up call” convinced Adams that if he was going to continue to ride snowmobiles in the backcountry, he needed to know what to do in emergencies. He needed to understand avalanche science; be able to interpret avalanche forecasts and use that information to make educated decisions; and he had to share this knowledge with friends and, well, any snowmobiler venturing into avalanche terrain. “I knew I would never be so exposed and unprepared again,” Adams says.

He took basic first aid, basic backcountry training, and avalanche safety. At the end of a 10-day wilderness first responder course, he understood exactly how false his false sense of security had been. “It’s like heading into the backcountry in flip flops,” he says of his naivete. “People get complacent and a little numb about what could happen. I did, and I saw that I needed even more knowledge.”

This epiphany coincided with a rise in overall winter backcountry use. However, much of the messaging around backcountry safety was targeted toward nonmotorized users—backcountry skiers, snowboarders, and snowshoers. It also occurred alongside major advances in snowmobile sled design that made previously inaccessible slopes a mere throttle away. Combined, Adams saw the potential for tragedy as unsuspecting sledders put themselves into risky terrain and also an opportunity to share his hard-won knowledge with others who needed it.

Enter Next Level Riding Clinics, the company Adams founded in 2008 to teach backcountry and mountain riding

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO DAN ADAMS

snowmobile skills to a wide range of snowmobilers, from novice to advanced. Each clinic starts with a comprehensive session on avalanche safety and equipment. As the clinic progresses, participants learn technique, refine their skills, and practice avalanche rescue simulations with beacons, shovels, and probes. Adams encourages all riders to learn about avalanches and safe riding, insisting that the more prepared everyone in the group is,

The intention isn’t to take people out and scare the crap out of them. It is to teach them how to be safe.” "

the safer they’ll be. “Snowmobiling is a group effort,” he says. “You’re out there with your absolute best people on the planet, so why wouldn’t it be important that everyone collectively learns how to do it safely?”

And this is where his idea of leadership comes in. An effective leader, he says, doesn’t just take a course and consider themselves prepared. They need repeated training, continuous education, innate curiosity, and a desire to constantly learn and improve. In the case of an avalanche, a good leader remains composed, communicative, and can di-

rect a step-by-step rescue process that is orderly and effective. “You need to know what to do, and you need to have practiced that so that it’s second nature,” he says. “That takes the emotion out of it, so you fall back on your training, take in the whole picture, and use that information to save lives.”

If it sounds serious, well, it is. But Adams is not here to scare you away from the backcountry. He loves the untracked snow, the wild environment, and getting away from the crowds, and he understands that you do, too. If anything, he believes that a sober understanding of the risk and a comprehensive acquisition of knowledge to minimize that risk makes the entire endeavor more fun. “The intention isn’t to take people out and scare the crap out of them,” he says. “It is to teach them how to be safe.”

And even then, things happen. Nature cannot be controlled, and humans are fallible, Adams included. He’ll tell you himself, and he has, sharing footage and recollections in a recently released video from Friends of the Bridger-Teton about how to “backcountry responsibly.”

The incident Adams shares occurred in December 2021 when he and his guiding clients were caught in an avalanche.

In the video, Adams and his guests are seen riding their sleds up steep hills before coming to a stop at the valley bottom—an avalanche runout

Next Level Riding clinics are for novice to advanced snowmobilers.

zone. Something triggers a slide above, and he and his clients are caught. He deploys his safety airbag, and then, when the pummeling stops, Adams, nearly breathless but alert and aware, assesses the situation and digs out a rider who is completely buried. “I was so focused on killer snow, killer sleds, and customer experience; and when that avalanche happened, there was nowhere for us to go,” he says.

Calling it an “embarrassing moment,” he said it was critical that his oversight and close call could be used to foster more conversations about safety and encourage more riders to educate themselves. Because if Adams, who has been riding for Polaris for more than 15 years, can make dumb decisions every now and again despite his decades of training, chances are others who are less experienced might, too. Which is why, he says, it is essential to take a backcountry safety course and then to practice what you learn to keep that knowledge fresh.

DAN’S TIPS FOR BACKCOUNTRY SNOWMOBILERS

Before heading into the backcountry, all snowmobilers, regardless of experience should have the following:

A PLAN: Know where you are riding (based on the daily forecast and experience of the riders), who you are riding with (ensuring all have similar ability levels, proper gear, and good communication), and what time you are riding start to finish (letting someone know when you plan to return).

LAYERS: Temperatures fluctuate in the backcountry, and the right layers of clothing keep you dry and warm. Adams rides in Klim—lightweight, technical apparel specially designed for snowmobilers.

FIRST AID KIT: Adams recommends keeping a first aid kit in your backpack (though on your sled is second best). Stock yours with the usual stuff and add super glue to close wounds, a tampon for fire starter, batteries, Quick Clot to stem bleeding, duct tape, pocket flare, and fire-starter (he likes Wetfire) in case you need to build a fire and the wood is wet. JH

#1 (2021) and #2 (2022 & 2023) in individual residential sales in Wyoming as ranked by Real Trends

LOCAL LIFE

Even though a 2020 mountain bike crash nearly severed his spinal cord at the T6 vertebrae, Pierre Bergman didn’t have to give up his love for sports. He came back to JHMR to make trails that fit the “universal design” philosophy—the idea that infrastructure is accessible and usable for everyone, disabled and able-bodied alike.

Pierre

PIERRE BERGMAN

// BY RACHEL WALKER

Bergman

Adaptive athlete and activist

Most everyone who has moved to Jackson Hole and made the choice to stay—an endeavor significantly more complicated than moving to a more populous, less expensive place with ample housing and employment— has a specific before/after moment that led to their decision. Before: law school; after: ski bum. It’s a profound shift in one’s life direction. But sometimes, the before/after is truly remarkable. Lifechanging. Such is the case for 32-yearold Pierre Bergman, who moved to Jackson Hole in May 2016.

In his “before,” Bergman was a snowboarder from San Diego lucky enough to have a free place to crash for a season or two. He arrived at the beginning of summer, got a job, made friends. That first winter, he shredded 120 days. One season turned into another and then another. He met a girl, and then went on a fateful mountain bike ride on Teton Pass on June 15, 2020.

That ride marks the beginning of Bergnan’s “after.” He broke his back in a crash and sustained a complete spinal cord injury, losing the use of his core and legs and, in an instant, becoming a wheelchair user for life.

After enduring a harrowing rescue, emergency surgery, and a stint in the Intensive Care Unit at Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center, Bergman moved to Craig Hospital in Englewood, Colorado, a world-renowned rehabilitation hospital for spinal cord and traumatic brain injuries, to learn how to live a full life in his utterly transformed body. Paralyzed from the waist down, Bergman learned how to navigate a wheelchair over obstacles and through grocery store aisles. Craig taught him how to care for his body, prevent sores,

and manage pain. The hospital is designed for wheelchair users and others with disabilities, and the therapists at Craig are devoted to empowering their patients as they help them navigate the physical and mental challenges of their trauma. “Craig was so helpful with the figure-it-out mentality,” he says. “It’s a model of how the world could be, should be.”

At his side was his then-girlfriendnow-wife May Gezzi. He proposed to her at Craig Hospital, and they married three years later in September 2023. When Bergman was discharged from Craig, the couple headed back to Jackson, despite the potential challenges of living in an adrenaline-junkie outpost where success can be measured by the number of days spent on the slopes, miles logged on the trail, or distance hucked off a kicker.

With its cold and snowy winters and lack of sidewalks, Jackson poses difficulties for wheelchair users. Housing is sparse, and a lot of places are two stories. And Bergman’s winter job—park groomer at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort—would require operating a snow cat through the night. Nevertheless, he and Gezzi knew that Jackson was where they wanted to be, and, to their surprise, they only needed to change a few things in their lives to make it work.

“Our old place would not work because it was on the second floor, so we looked for single-level homes or condos and got extremely lucky, finding one pretty quickly,” Bergman says. After adding a ramp to the entrance of their new abode, the couple had a home Bergman could access and that did not need any interior changes. Bergman got a primary doctor for the first time

After an mountain bike accident on Teton Pass, Pierre Bergman underwent emergency surgery at Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center. He then transferred to Craig Hospital in Colorado, a world-renowned rehabilitation center for spinal cord injuries.

COURTESY PHOTO

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO PIERRE BERGMAN

TETON ADAPTIVE

Founded in 2005, the nonprofit organization Teton Adaptive is dedicated to providing inclusive recreational opportunities for those with disabilities in the greater Teton area. Offering a range of adaptive sports, including alpine and Nordic skiing, mountain biking, paddling, paragliding, and sled hockey, the group works with local outfitters and resorts to bring the disability community together, in motion. With the mission of making these sports accessible to all, regardless of physical ability or level of experience or expertise, Teton Adaptive provides scholarships, specialized equipment, and training for instructors. To participate as an athlete, donate, or volunteer, visit tetonadaptive.org or call 307/203-2223. @tetonadaptive

in his life and began working with physical therapist Sara Starc, whom he credits with helping his recovery and maintaining strength and health.

And his grooming job at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort was waiting for him. After working closely with his manager to develop a system to get in and out of the cat independently, Pierre was good to go; cat drivers use their hands to control the machine, and Pierre’s upper body was not impacted by his accident.

To access the cat, he drives a utility terrain vehicle (UTV) with a long pad in it from the JHMR operations building to the cat, which is parked slightly higher on the hill near the top of the Teewinot lift. From there, he pulls up to the cat tracks, puts the pad on the tracks, and uses his upper body to hoist himself from the UTV to the cat tracks and then into the cat—a movement known as a “transfer.” The groom-

ing crew supports him, cleaning, inspecting, and fueling the cat.

“I feel fortunate to have a crew willing to help out and carry a little extra load,” he says.

When his shift is done, he skis in a sit ski. To watch him today, he looks like a natural careening down the slopes. But Bergman endured a sharp learning curve.

“It was demoralizing, frankly,” he says of his initial attempts at sit-skiing. “I wondered if it was ever going to be fun or if I would ever be good.” But through a Craig Hospital-sponsored adaptive ski trip to Crested Butte, significant “time in the bucket,” and the patience of friends who accompanied him down the beginner and then intermediate slopes, he found his rhythm.

Now, Bergman skis all winter and rides an adaptive mountain bike in the summer. Returning to athletics after his

Pierre Bergman, left, says his initial attempts at sit-skiing were "demoralizing," but today he is an adaptive ski instructor at JHMR.

and county to enforce the American with Disabilities Act, which requires new construction to be fully accessible, calls on existing facilities to remove architectural barriers in public accommodations, and supports Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s ongoing efforts to improve accessibility. He also hopes to destigmatize Jackson in the eyes of those with disabilities who might be intimidated by the area’s extreme reputation. “I want everyone to experience the outdoors and be in the trees,” says Bergman. “Sometimes folks with disabilities are told they can’t by someone who doesn’t know very much and has no business discouraging anyone. We have so much to offer in Jackson Hole, from paragliding to adaptive mountain biking to adaptive sailing to wheelchair-accessible bike paths, and more. You don’t have to be extreme to come and enjoy the Tetons.” JH

GOOD TO BE THE KING

At Snow King Mountain, you won’t just find incredible ski terrain, thrilling adventures like the Mountain Cowboy Coaster and King Tubes, and a one–of–a–kind mountaintop planetarium and observatory you’ll find it all in the heart of Jackson Hole. With fine dining coming to the summit in winter 2025 and free parking, Snow King is redefining what a mountain experience can be. Here, you’re not just having fun you’re living like a king.

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO LENA PODUSKA

QThis Nordic phenom is in it for the friends.

// BY HELEN OLSSON

Fierce competitiveness can serve as intrinsic motivation for elite athletes. But for Nordic ski racer Lena Poduska, a senior at Jackson Hole High School who’s consistently on the podium, competitiveness isn’t the main driver. Her motivation to succeed is more about her girl posse.

“Honestly, the reason I’m so dedicated [to the sport] is the team environment,” she says. “Our friend group is pretty tight. We hang out outside of practice. Team trips are super high energy.” While she often competes against her teammates, they score team points at races like Junior Nationals. She also competes in relays. “It’s more pressure because you don’t want to mess up for your team, but I love relay day!”

Poduska has been training with the Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club since second grade. She had tried soccer, lacrosse, hockey—even alpine skiing, but nothing stuck like cross-country. “With a Nordic workout, I feel like I accomplished something,” she says. “I never got that same feeling from alpine skiing.” By the high school years, she was training and racing near-daily 11 months of the year. “It’s a big commitment.” She competes in multiple events, but the skate 10K is her bread and butter.

Each year, the U.S. Ski Team invites a small contingent of young Nordic racers to an international competition. In 2023, a seventh-place finish at the U.S. Cross-Country National Championships in Michigan earned Poduska

RYAN JONES

A nine-year-old Lena Poduska, middle, crossed the finish line of the 5k skate event during the 2016 Moose Chase Nordic ski race holding hands with teammates.

LOCAL LIFE

HELLO LENA PODUSKA

Lena is a really hard worker who has fully committed to the training and racing process. I think her motivation comes from pure enjoyment of the sport.”

—JACKSON HOLE SKI & SNOWBOARD NORDIC COACH LUNA WASSON

WHEN NOT RACING

When Poduska isn’t racing or training, she relishes the freedom of crust-cruising in Grand Teton National Park. The key to this springtime iteration of skate skiing is timing, Poduska says. You have to hit the sweet spot between slick and slush, when the sun warms the snow enough for smooth gliding over a firm surface but not so soft that you punch through. Poduska meets friends early, usually around 7 a.m. “We go in spring when we’re not racing,” she says. “You’re just skiing for pure joy. You can just go for miles."

that invitation, and she competed at the 2023 U18 Nordic Nations Cup in Jyvaskyla, Finland. “That finish put Lena on the map,” says Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Nordic coach Luna Wasson. Only six American girls under 18 were chosen to represent the U.S. at the race. Poduska was only 15 at the time. “It was a breakthrough moment for me,” Poduska says.

“Lena is a really hard worker who has fully committed to the training and racing process,” Wasson says. “I think her motivation comes from pure enjoyment of the sport.” At a time when young racers can burn out, Poduska remains all in. “She just loves it.”

In March 2023 at the Junior National Championships in Fairbanks, Alaska, Poduska notched two championship titles (5K skate and 7.5K classic). In 2024, the U.S. Ski Team chose the Swedish National Championships in Falun, Sweden, for its annual international trip. Again, a seventh-place finish at U.S. Nationals in Utah qualified her to represent the U.S. at that race.

Poduska lives with her parents (Greg is a middle school teacher, and Tracy is the principal at Jackson Elementary) and trains at Trail Creek Ranch in Wilson, where the ski club maintains a training facility with around 20 kilometers of ski track. “I like Gut Flop. It's this huge downhill with a long runout. You can go insanely fast down it,” she says. And if Poduska keeps skiing insanely fast, who knows? “Lena’s trajectory is on the up and up,” Wasson says. “She can take it wherever she wants.” We got Poduska to slow down just long enough to answer a few questions.

What are your goals?

LP: I’d like to be on the U.S. Ski Team one day. Right now, I’m looking to get on a prestigious college team. I’ve been talking to coaches and trying to make connections. (Editor’s note: In November, Poduska signed to Nordic ski for the University of Vermont, which has a NCAA Division I program.)

Who are your role models?

LP: I really look up to my coaches: Luna Wasson, Will Wicherski, and Jon Filardo. And I’m inspired by Jessie Diggins—for her pure grit and willingness to get on the line and just go! She’s incredible.

What’s race day like?

LP: I get so nervous I get nauseous and shaky, which is challenging because you need to be able to perform. Applesauce helps. Once I’m in the race, I focus on what I can control versus what I can’t.

Do you have a lucky charm?

LP: I found this mermaid ring on the trail at a race a long time ago and put it in the back pocket of my race pants. No one knows it’s there but me. It’s sort of a comfort item.

Favorite race-day snacks?

LP: Fruit snacks for quick energy. Quaker makes a chewy s’mores-flavored granola bar dipped in chocolate. And I go through an insane amount of Razz-Cranberry LaCroix.

ADOBE STOCK

MUST-HAVE PHONE APPS

The night before a race, Poduska makes a checklist for her morning warm-up in Notes. “I screenshot the list and make it the wallpaper on my phone,” she says. “It calms my nerves on race morning.”

In the van on the way to races, Poduska and her teammates jam to tunes on Apple Music “We listen to early 2000s hip-hop and pop music,” she says. But once she’s at the venue, the earbuds come out. “When I’m training and racing, I’m focusing on technique.” When she’s doing homework, she cranks house music, she admits.

Social media like Instagram is Poduska’s way of keeping in touch. “It’s a nice way to stay connected with ski friends who live across the country.” JH

Explore More Winter!

Miles and miles of groomed track and ungroomed trails await you on both sides of the Tetons. You can skate or classic ski, fat bike, snowshoe or take a walk. Come play!

Want to see what’s groomed? Visit jhnordic.org for real-time grooming updates.

Scan here: Find directions & GPS trail maps.

See where you can take your dog.

Check out how to recreate responsibly.

WAYNE PETSCH

Lena Poduska hopes to one day be on the U.S. Ski Team and in 2023 won two titles at the Junior National Championships in Fairbanks, Alaska.

Photo Credit: David J Swift

// BY SAMANTHA SIMMA

Silver Dollar Bar

Taking

its name from the coins embedded into its bar and furnishings, this landmark has been a favorite Jackson Hole gathering place for 75 years.

“W

hen the Wort brothers opened the Silver Dollar in 1950, the idea was to create a bar where the community could gather for good music, fun, and fellowship,” says Jim Waldrop, general manager of the historic Wort Hotel. “We have carried forward that commitment.”

In opening the Wort Hotel in 1941, the Wort brothers, John and Jess, fulfilled their father’s dream of the family owning a luxury hotel in downtown Jackson. Embodying the rugged elegance of the American West, the hotel was built on the site of the Wort family’s former homestead—composed of four lots Charles Wort purchased in 1917. The Silver Dollar Bar, which was added to the hotel in 1950, soon became one of its most iconic features.

The Silver Dollar is home to 5,056 silver dollars. “We believe this to be the largest collection of Morgan 1921 silver dollars in the world,” Waldrop says. The Morgan dollar, named after its designer George T. Morgan, was first minted in 1878. Inlaid in the original 46-foot bar top are 2,032 silver dollars; 1,392 adorn the new bar; and 1,632 are atop the Showroom’s bar. Hundreds of additional silver dollars are embedded throughout the hotel—in stained glass, tables, and custom furniture. While the initial run of coins acquired for the hotel came directly from the Denver Mint, Bill Baxter, the hotel’s most recent owner, connected with coin dealers throughout the country to track down additional 1921 Morgan dollars for the 2024 remodel.

A fire on August 5, 1980 closed the hotel until June of the following year. Initially, the hope was to reopen the bar while the hotel underwent repairs, but the extent of the water damage led to the closure of the entire hotel. Nancy Takeda— whose 60-year tenure at the Wort Hotel began

LOCAL LIFE

in 1963, when she was just 13 years old, and who, over the years, found herself in nearly every employment position at the hotel—was onsite during the fire, and the recovery. “They put an armed guard in the bar until they decided they weren’t going to be able to reopen,” Takeda recalls. “Then, they loaded the bar into a moving truck and took it to Jackson State Bank for storage.”

Today, the tables in the Silver Dollar Bar are branded with the Wort Hotel’s signature brand. But Takeda recalls a previous iteration of tables that were adorned with local brands: “We had a branding party; we invited all of the ranches, anybody who had a brand, and it was $50 per branding. All of the brands were local, and it was a big party for the bar,” she says. After the fire, those original tables were too waterlogged to salvage, but they were the inspiration for their branded replacements.

Appearances by a young Willie Nelson, Doc Watson, and Roy Clark helped establish a legacy of world class

" The Showroom is alive and well today with four nights of live music anchoring a lively downtown music scene.”

—JIM WALDROP, WORT HOTEL GENERAL MANAGER

performers at the Silver Dollar. “After the 1980 fire, the Silver Dollar Showroom was replaced with a series of luxury guest rooms,” Waldrop says. In 2016, Baxter brought the Showroom back to life, and it has since hosted country music legends Marty Stewart, Larry Gatlin, and Mac McAnally; and bluegrass greats Del McCoury and Jerry Douglas among many others. “The Showroom is alive and well today with four nights of live music anchoring a lively downtown music scene,” Waldrop says.

Of course, live music and dancing were casualties of the Covid-19 pandemic era. Still, some patrons found a workaround. “When we were finally able to open, we could only have a certain number of people in the bar,” Takeda says. “But you couldn’t dance. One night, the windows of the Showroom were wide open and there were people dancing out on the sidewalk. They were doing the Western swing out there!”

“The famous phrase ‘Meet me at The Wort’ actually meant meet me at the Silver Dollar,” Waldrop says. “The Silver Dollar uniquely attracts locals and travelers, ranchers and snowboarders, young and old—everyone is welcome and feels at home in the Silver Dollar.”

The Silver Dollar Bar in the 1960s.

A young Willie Nelson performs at the Silver Dollar Bar in the 1950s.

COURTESY PHOTO

COURTESY PHOTO

THE RECENT RENOVATION

“We wanted to create a space that belonged and would enhance the rich history and tradition of the Silver Dollar Bar and Grill,” Waldrop says about the bar’s 2024 renovation and expansion into the former grill area. After six months of work, the Silver Dollar Bar opened in May 2024 with “The Showroom.” “Creating an exact replica of the Silver Dollar Bar was at the forefront of the project,” Waldrop says. “Every element, from the leather panels to the silver dollars, their spacing and depth, was exact and intentional.” A larger stage was added, and the dance floor was expanded. “Back in the day, the Wort had the Green Back Room, but people referred to it simply as the ‘showroom’ because it had a lot of acts,” Waldrop says. “It was the entertainment venue of the hotel. By naming [the area] the Showroom, we’re just re-introducing a Jackson Hole icon.” JH

PEAK PROPERTIES

The factor that makes the Jackson Hole real estate market so unusual is the relative scarcity of private land. Ninety-seven percent of Teton County, Wyoming, is publicly owned—either national park, national forest, or wildlife refuge. This computes to just 75,000 privately held acres in a county spanning 2.5 million acres. The guaranteed open spaces and unobstructed views these surrounding public lands afford make the remaining private land a real treasure. Add the abundance of recreational opportunities found in and around the valley, and the quality of life one can enjoy in Jackson Hole is simply unbeatable.

Moreover, many of the properties featured here are secluded, scenic retreats located in the midst of prime wildlife habitat. Most existing and prospective property owners in Jackson Hole cherish this notion, and serve—or will serve—as stewards of nature.

One cannot put a dollar value on waking to the Teton skyline, skiing home for lunch, or listening to a trout stream gurgling through the backyard. In Jackson Hole, “living with nature” is not a fleeting, vicarious experience a person has while watching TV. Here it’s a fact of life, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

CACHE CREEK FRONTAGE

With Cache Creek meandering along its northern border, this rare location in east Jackson offers tranquil in-town living. The remodeled kitchen and dining area open onto a second story deck overlooking the backyard, extending to the creek. Numerous nearby hiking and mountain biking trails, only 1.3 miles to downtown Jackson, and Teton views. When it’s time to unwind, there’s no better place than the private backyard, listening to the soothing sounds of Cache Creek.

BUDGE KELLEY REALTY GROUP KELLER WILLIAMS JACKSON HOLE 307/413-5294 team@budgekelley.com budgekelley.com 3,140 4 4 2,775,000

3,120

3

3.5

A stone’s throw from the Town Square, the Glenwood offers a mountain town retreat close to both cultural and outdoor activities. Three-bedroom luxury units with rooftop decks and the finest amenities. Please reach out for information about the second phase.

JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INT’L REALTY Bill Van Gelder, Associate Broker 307/201-8045 ext. 8045 allenvangelder@JHSIR.com jacksonholerealestateinfo.com

NEW CONSTRUCTION IN RIVERVIEW RANCH

SQUARE FEET AT A GLANCE

6,869 5 7 15,500,000 24-1270

BEDROOMS

Floor to ceiling glass windows frame the Grand Teton perfectly in this new construction in Riverview Ranch. With five bedrooms, seven bathrooms, and seamless indooroutdoor living, the great room connects to an expansive deck with panoramic Teton Range views. The open kitchen features Wolf/Sub-Zero appliances and a waterfall island. The lower level includes four guest suites, a game lounge, wet bar, and family room. Outdoor amenities include a fire pit, hot tub, and a three-bay garage with ski lockers for year-round enjoyment.

HUFF | VAUGHN | SASSI JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INT’L REALTY 307/203-3000 huffvaughnsassi@jhsir.com www.mercedeshuff.com

IN-TOWN LUXURY AT

MOOSEHEAD CABIN AT GRANITE RIDGE

4,285 5 5.5

BEDROOMS

8,150,000

24-1111

Discover urban luxury at its finest in the heart of Jackson Hole’s esteemed Gill Addition. Introducing a magnificent opportunity to own a brand new, custom-built residence just moments away from the iconic town square. This stunning home boasts five generously appointed bedrooms, offering ample space for family, guests, and entertaining. Entertain in style with an expansive openconcept living area, seamlessly flowing into a gourmet chef’s kitchen adorned with top-of-the-line appliances and designer finishes.

HUFF | VAUGHN | SASSI JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INT’L REALTY Andrew Marshall | 307/699-0628 andrew.marshall@jhsir.com jacksonholepropertysearch.com

TETON VILLAGE - 7750 N. LOWER GRANITE RIDGE

6,414

6 8

This exclusive mountain retreat at 7750 N. Lower Granite Ridge offers ski in/ski out access in Granite Ridge, Teton Village. The 6,414-square-foot home includes six bedrooms, eight bathrooms, and a heated three-car garage. The great room has vaulted ceilings, a custom Fitzhugh Karol mantle, and a wood-burning fireplace. Upper-level suites complement a lower level with a media room, sauna, gym, and wine room. Outside, enjoy a hot tub, gas firepit, and grill. Architecture by Ward Blake.

JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INT’L REALTY

Jake Kilgrow | 307/413-2822

jake.kilgrow@jhsir.com

2,385 3 3

BEDROOMS BATHS

6,600,000 24-2547

Nestled just 650 feet from Granite Ridge Tow, this property allows multi-generational groups to gather and connect in a thoughtfully designed fusion of space and location. Open-concept great room features vaulted ceilings, stone fireplace, generous kitchen with bar for casual dining. From a spacious deck, watch skiers glide down the slopes as you relax in the spa or fire up the grill. Cozy upper-level sleeping loft offers peaceful nights, while private bedroom level includes primary suite, second bed and bath. Turnkey second home or investment just minutes from world-class skiing, iconic Grand Teton National Park.

LIVE WATER PROPERTIES JACKSON HOLE Latham Jenkins | 307/690-1642 latham@livewaterproperties.com livewaterjacksonhole.com

FEET AT A GLANCE

7,234 6 8

BEDROOMS

23,000,000 24-2041

2680 Trader Road combines timeless, refined finishes, rustic elegance, and Teton Village lifestyle conveniences. Located in Jackson’s gated Gros Ventre North subdivision, this architectural masterpiece offers unparalleled living amidst the Teton Range. The main level features an expansive great room with vaulted ceilings, exposed steel beams, and a floor-to-ceiling stone fireplace. The chef’s kitchen includes top-of-the-line appliances and a butler’s pantry. Floor-to-ceiling windows and telescoping doors provide access to the expansive deck with a covered dining area, built-in grill, and outdoor fireplace. Architecture by Farmer Payne Architects.

JACKSON HOLE SOTHEBY’S INT’L REALTY Jake Kilgrow | 307/413-2822 jake.kilgrow@jhsir.com

GROS VENTRE NORTH - 2680 TRADER ROAD

ROASTERY & COFFEE HOUSE

INSPIRED BY JACKSON HOLE; FUELING LIFE’S ADVENTURES

TAYLOR GLENN

ENJOY

ARTS, CULTURE, FOOD, AND DESIGN

THE BEST, BIGGEST SKI-DAY BREAKFASTS

These breakfasts will start your ski day off right (and maybe get you through lunch).

// BY BRIGID MANDER // PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATHRYN ZIESIG

Few things build appetites and burn calories like spending all day outside in freezing temperatures and likely braving inhospitable winds in order to either lap chairlifts or tour for fresh backcountry powder. Skiing requires serious energy, which is probably why skiers created their own fourth meal of the day: après ski. With this in mind, ski town locals know that to make it to après without wasting any ski time on a lunch break, you need to start with a substantial breakfast. (A substantial breakfast that is also transportable equals extra points.)

Local eateries, from grocers to markets, cafés, and restaurants have a range of options. Here are some of our favs.

THE POCKET BAGEL

Bagels are time-tested fuel for skiers, and Pearl Street Bagels, which has locations in downtown Jackson and Wilson and, as of late last fall, in Vistor, Idaho, has been setting skiers up with fresh-made bagels for 30 years. Mix and match a dozen bagel varieties with seven cream cheese flavors including honey walnut, fresh herb, mountain berry, and Mexican; or reach into the hot case for a premade bagel breakfast sandwich. Sandwiches are on either a plain or everything bagel, and options are bacon, egg, and cheese; sausage, egg, and cheese; and egg and cheese. FYI, the sandwiches are often gone by 9 a.m. or earlier. “I’m there early to get the bacon, egg, and cheese on an everything,” says Dan Simons, a local skier who appreciates the sammie’s generous serving of bacon. Bagels with cream cheese from $4.50, breakfast sandwiches from $6; open daily at 7 a.m.; 145 W. Pearl Ave., Jackson and 1230 Ida Dr., Wilson; 307/739-1218 (Jackson) and 307-739-1261 (Wilson), jacksonholebagels.com

JACKSON HOLE

WINTER

HTO GO

ome of Jackson Hole’s most beloved breakfast burrito, D.O.G. (Down on Glen) is a no-frills hole-in-the-wall. Its three breakfast burritos have been Jackson staples for 20 years. Each has two eggs, hash browns, pepper jack, onions, and tomatoes wrapped in a flour tortilla. That’s the veggie burrito. Add bacon, sausage, or ham for the meat burrito. If you want a spicy meat burrito, D.O.G. will add chopped jalapeños— which happens to be, by far, the most popular. Whichever one you go for, expect it to be almost as big as an adult forearm. “D.O.G. literally keeps me alive in winter for skiing!” says local skier Barbara Berska, who always gets the meat spicy. Order a “burrito in a box” for a gluten-free option. From $12; open daily at 6:30 a.m.; 25 S. Glenwood St.; 307/733-4422, downonglenjh.com

THE ULTIMATE SIT-DOWN

Astaple of the Jackson Hole ski scene since 1982, Nora’s Fish Creek Inn is a cozy log cabin with Wyoming pioneer and ski memorabilia scattered around inside, countertop seating, and dozens of tables crammed in to fit its many local fans. It’s the place to fuel up for a big ski day after a big night, but it can be busy, so don’t show up in a rush. The huevos rancheros here come on a hot plate piled high with beans, corn tortillas, eggs, cheese, and house-made green chile salsa (add chorizo if you want more protein). From $9 (huevos rancheros are $18); breakfast served daily 6:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; 5600 W. Highway 22, Wilson; 307/733-7662, norasfishcreekinn.com

THE BACKCOUNTRY

If you hired a mountain guide for a big day of ski touring in Grand Teton National Park, stop at Creekside Market and Deli on your way north from town for a grab-and-go breakfast sandwich—an egg and slab of cheddar with either bacon, ham, or sausage on an English muffin or croissant. While you’re here, order a deli sammie to throw in your pack for lunch. Creekside has been voted “Best Deli Sandwich in Jackson Hole.” Breakfast sandwiches from $5.75; breakfast daily 6–10 a.m.; 545 N. Cache St., Jackson; 307/733.7926, creeksidejacksonhole.com

If you’re looking for a genteel start to your ski day, swing into Persephone Bakery in downtown Jackson. Recognized as a James Beard semi-finalist bakery for its French-inspired pastries, the bakery is in a whitewashed cottage listed on the Jackson Town Register of Historic Places (it was built in 1941 as the home of Jack and Hazel Smith). Get a pastry—the brioche cinnamon roll is among the most popular—and also order a croque madame. (Eat the pastry while the café’s kitchen prepares your croque madame). Served on fresh-baked levain (sourdough) bread, Persephone’s twist on the French classic includes a side of house-made tomato jam. Pastries from $4.75, the croque madame is $16; open daily 7 a.m.–6 p.m.; 145 E. Broadway Ave., Jackson; 307/2006708, persephonebakery.com

A FRENCH-STYLE ALPINE START

The Mangy Moose Café, below the Mangy Moose Saloon (one of Jackson Hole’s most iconic aprés-ski spots), opens early to serve both grab-and-go and made-to-order items. For the latter, the café’s classic omelet is hard to beat: three eggs, honey-glazed ham, roasted tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach, and goat cheese with sides of hash browns and toast from local bakery 460 Bread. Omelette $18; breakfast daily 7–11 a.m.; 3295 Village Dr., Teton Village; 307/7334913, mangymoose.com JH

JACKSON HOLE

Pastry chef Oscar Ortega says cooking savory foods is easier than making pastries and chocolate confections.

Don’t Call These Candy

Oscar Ortega’s chocolate confections are among the best in the world.

// BY HELEN OLSSON

The glass cases at Atelier Ortega and CocoLove are filled with artisan desserts, from decadent cakes to a rainbow of bonbons. Master chocolatier and gelato maker Oscar Ortega developed many of his recipes by competing in international competitions, starting with the Olympic Culinary Games in 2004. Dozens of his citations, medals, and trophies cover every inch of the walls and shelves at Atelier Ortega. There’s the mixing bowl-shaped trophy for 2011 Top Ten Pastry Chef in America and the Finalist trophy from the World Chocolate Masters competition held in Paris in 2009 (making him the world’s first “Chocolate Master” to hail from Mexico). But the one Ortega is most proud of is the “Best Praline in the World” trophy from the World Pastry Team Championships in Milan in 2015. “Every podium is a memory, and I have scars from each one,” Ortega says. But competitions have elevated his game. “When I develop recipes for competitions, I think about flavors, textures, and how the taste evolves in your mouth,” he says.

Ortega started out in broadcasting with aspirations of working as a journalist for the BBC, but when a radio program he started was taken over by a corporation, he soured on the industry. He had

ENJOY

JH PANTRY

One nibble of the Saffron & Vanilla and the essence of Iranian saffron hits your taste buds, followed by 64 percent single-origin dark chocolate couverture and a hint of pure Mexican vanilla bean. Decorated with pink swirls and purple butterflies on top, it’s also a handsome bite. “I think it’s really joyful,” says Ortega, who presented the confection at the World Chocolate Masters competition in 2009.

A nod to Ortega’s Mexico City roots, the Mexican praline’s cocoa beans are processed in the Mexican style—the beans are harvested, fermented, dried, roasted, peeled, and then processed with sugar—resulting in an intense chocolate flavor. The top of this perennial favorite is decorated with imagery of Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent god who gave the cacao tree to the Aztecs.

Tahitian vanilla beans, fresh lime juice, and African cocoa beans collide in the inventive Vanilla & Lime bonbon. “People say citrus and chocolate don’t go together,” he says. “Of course, they do!” Inside the green confection, molded into an oval shape, the ganache is delightfully soft to align with the idea of lime juice. Less sweet than others, it’s a bite capable of spiking up the palate. Ortega submitted the confection to the World Pastry Team Championships in Milan in 2015—and won. Look for the “Best Praline the World” trophy on display in Atelier Ortega.

Ortega developed his Banana & Walnut praline—in addition to the Vanilla & Lime bonbon—for the 2015 World Pastry Team Championships. He told his team, “We’ve got to do something spectacular.” The banana-walnut combo seems straightforward, but its flavor profile is complex. The first taste, sweet caramelized banana, gives way to tangy notes of walnut praliné, finishing with chocolate ganache.

Inside the square-shaped Hazelnut Praline & Espresso confection, Ortega uses caramelized hazelnuts and sugar to create a milk chocolate praliné that’s layered with a ganache of 75 percent dark chocolate and espresso. “There’s a hint of nutmeg first, then you taste the sweetness of the hazelnut, then espresso, then chocolate,” says Ortega. “It’s an evolution.”

The idea for his Pistachio & Strawberry combo came from an assistant chocolatier. The acidic taste of strawberry opens the palate, making way for the sweetness of the pistachio praline. A bit of dehydrated beet adds a rich red color. Finally, this rotund little bonbon is decorated with a bright swirl of green and red over its hard shell exterior.

learned to cook traditional Italian dishes at home (his mom was Italian), so he pivoted to the culinary arts. In 1997, while enrolled at Milan’s Cast Alimenti culinary school, he had the opportunity to observe a pastry team practicing for competition. “I saw the perfection in everything they did with confections. And when I tasted them, I was blown away,” he says. “I decided I wanted to become one of the best pastry chefs in the business. Cooking savory foods is easy. Confections are harder, and I prefer the hard way.”

In the early 2000s, Ortega’s first wife (and mom to son Sebastian) was moving to Jackson for a job. “It had to be a woman to make me move from one side of the world to here,” says Ortega, who had always lived in cities like London, Paris, and Brussels. When he arrived in Jackson Hole in the dead of winter, he thought it was paradise.

Today, Ortega runs his Jackson shops with Ximena Ortega Ruiz, a pastry chef from Costa Rica who he married in 2022. While Ortega spearheads the chocolates program, she focuses on pastries. Ortega Ruiz serves as chef de cuisine, overseeing the pastry cooks and crafting everything from petite gateaux to viennoiserie, and she brought in coffee beans from her family’s coffee plantation for the atelier’s lattes. “She has become my biggest source of inspiration,” he says.

While the nuances between Ortega’s chocolate confections are lost on most, they fall into distinct categories: Bonbons have a molded outer shell, often brightly colored, and a soft chocolate ganache filling. Praline is a general term for chocolate confections with fillings, ranging from ganache to the accented praliné (a blend of roasted nuts and caramelized sugar). Usually round

in shape, truffles are made of a creamy ganache rolled in cocoa powder. Whatever you do, don’t call them candies. “That is an offense,” Ortega says. They are all chocolate confections.

Over his career, Ortega has made countless flavors, and today you’ll find 27 on offer. He sat down with us to taste a half dozen of his favorite chocolate confections—including two of the longest-standing confections in the collection, the Mexican and Safron & Vanilla—running us through a pretty sweet (and savored slowly) taste journey. “In America, there is this cult of immediate satisfaction that I don’t understand,” he says. “The food you eat doesn’t have to be all foie gras and caviar, but we should celebrate every single bite.” $2.95 per piece, $30 for a box of 12; 115 W. Broadway Ave. (Cocolove) and 150 Scott Ln. (Atlier Ortega); 307/734-6400, atelierortega.squarespace.com JH

Why Always in Chinatown is Fashion

C// BY JENN RICE

hinatown is a family-owned-andrun spot that has been cherished by locals and visitors for its delicious and affordable menu since it opened in Grand Teton Plaza in 1997. In April 2015, a fire in Chinatown’s section of the plaza destroyed the restaurant as we knew it. (It was the neighboring business, Habitat Re-Store, that suffered the most in the fire; the damage in Chinatown was mostly from smoke and water.) For 16 months, Jackson Hole was without the restaurant. In August 2016, it reopened after being renovated and enlarged (the space increased from 3,500 to 4,000 square feet). While the new interior lacks the charm of the old one—pre-fire, there was a koi pond just inside the entrance—the restaurant became even

more popular than it was before. It’s one of the few non-fast-food places in town where a family of four can get a great meal for about $70.

With the exception of two handcarved wooden arches close to the entrance, the Chinatown 2.0 decor is no frills, and that’s part of the appeal. The dining room tables are dark wood, and chairs and booths are upholstered in pleather. These, along with the wood coffered ceiling and wall-to-wall carpet tiles make the space feel like Anywhere USA. The arches—carved and painted in red, gold, and black—suffered only minimal damage in the fire. They were refinished and reinstalled. Former owner Salomon Ly (he sold most of the business to a cousin six years ago) told the Jackson Hole News &

Twenty-eight years of Szechuan chicken, volcanoes, and fun traditions.

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN BURK

Guide he thought the arches originally came from China.

The strategy at Chinatown should always be to order enough food to cover your table’s surface. The extensive menu offers authentic Chinese cuisine spanning Cantonese, Szechuan, Hunan, and Peking dishes including sesame chicken, Mongolian beef, and egg drop soup. Everything is made with fresh ingredients and traditional cooking methods to ensure the best flavors. The service is always friendly, and no matter when you call, the answer to how long takeout will take is always “20 minutes.” The answer to “can I make a reservation?” is always, “just come in.”

In my opinion, these are the three best ways to experience Chinatown:

A HOLIDAY CELEBRATION WITH FRIENDS

When I became a full-time resident of Jackson, Chinatown became synonymous with holiday gatherings—a celebration with friends who were stuck working over the holiday break at various resorts and restaurants during the peak busy season. We’d make a reservation for 20 people on Christmas Eve, and they’d push several tables together to create an extended dinner party setting. Volcanoes—large ceramic tiki bowls filled with a variety of rums and juices, with the center lit on fire for effect—dotted our holiday tables as decor. One boozy Volcano, four people, four straws, one race. I don’t recall what the prize was for the winner, but it was always a good time. As Chinatown puts it: “An eruption is more than this establishment wants, but when you sip from a conjugal volcano bowl with fire in the center, the manager will understand.” It was the most fun, nontraditional celebration and a ritual I looked forward to year after year.

THE BEST TAKEOUT

The Chef’s Special Chinese Family Dinner, at $20 per person, is enough food to warrant next-day breakfast leftovers with a fried egg on top. It’s always a hit for bad weather days and best enjoyed as takeout. The feast includes egg drop or hot and sour soup, several trinkets wrapped in aluminum to keep warm (think egg rolls and crab rangoons), egg fried rice, and a bevy of entrees to choose from, includ ing almond chicken, sweet and sour pork, green pepper beef, moo goo gai pan, Szechuan pork, and kung pao chicken. The strategy is to get two or three people and order several different entrees.

DINE-IN FOR THE SPECIAL DISHES

Oddly enough, my takeout order versus dine-in order at Chinatown is very different. Dinein, outside of the Christmas Eve celebration, is meant for savoring dishes that are better slurped up fresh out of the kitchen. This includes Peking duck

noodle soup; hot and spicy kung pao shrimp with water chestnuts, mushrooms, and peanuts; shrimp, beef, and chicken combo lo mein; and bean curd with Chinese vegetables. There will always be leftovers. JH

Chinatown has been an affordable place for friends to gather since it opened in Grand Teton Plaza in 1997.

Chinatown's kung pao shrimp is one of the most popular menu items.

JACKSON HOLE

// BY DINA MISHEV

Women on

the Walls

Women gallerists and curators make Jackson Hole's art scene more vibrant.

“There are great artists who, throughout history, have gotten the short end of the stick,” says National Museum of Wildlife Art curator of art, Tammi Hanawalt, PhD. “They were well-known in their time but were then left out of the art history and survey books.” What artists is Hanawalt talking about? Women. (And this could be said for any minority, as well.)

In the 572-page first edition of History of Art by H.W. Janson used in most art-survey courses in U.S. colleges and universities, there wasn’t a single female artist included. (The first edition was published in 1962.) By the time the sixth edition was published in 2006, among the hundreds of artists whose stories were told and work admired were 16 women. The British equivalent of Janson’s art-survey book, The Story of Art by Ernst Gombrich, was/ is even worse. First published in 1950, its 800-some pages don’t include a single mention of a female artist. As of 2024, The Story of Art is in its 16th edition, which includes one woman artist. Historically, creating art was more difficult for women—women artists in Europe weren’t even allowed to be admitted to the life-drawing studio until the 1890s—but there were women who persevered. “There were women who were accomplished, professional artists despite everything against them,” says Shari Brownfield, founder and owner of the Jackson-based boutique art advisory and appraisal firm Shari Brownfield Fine Art. “But they’ve been left out of our history books.”

It’s not just history that is hard on female artists. In the present, of the 3,050 art galleries in Artsy’s database (Artsy is a New York City-based online art brokerage), 10 percent represent not a single female artist and almost half represent 25 percent or fewer women. According to the 2024 Artnet Intelligence Report, only 11 women were among the 100 top-selling artists at auction globally in 2023. Working female visual artists today earn, on average, seventy-four cents for every dollar made by male artists. Recent data from the National Endowment of the Arts reveals 89 percent of museum acquisitions and 85 percent of museum exhibitions in the U.S. are dedicated to male artists.

During the summer of 2023, Shari Brownfield Fine Art hosted an exhibit that featured 41 works by 21 female artists.

ENJOY

ART

If these facts and statistics are a surprise to you, you’re not alone. “The under-representation of women in art didn’t dawn on me when I was in art school,” Brownfield says. “It wasn’t until I was working in larger galleries that I realized it was almost entirely male artists that I was selling, and the few times I had requests for work by female artists, it was typically for the same few women—and their prices were significantly lower than their male counterparts. The more I paid attention to this, the more I began to believe that they were not collected and not expensive for no other reason than that they were female artists and their stories hadn’t been told.”

While the macro story of females in art is sobering, Jackson Hole’s art scene—from its galleries to the National Museum of Wildlife Art and artists themselves—could be viewed as a beacon of hope. The top two curatorial posts at the NMWA are held by women, and the museum is actively trying to increase its representation of women and minorities in its permanent collection and in temporary exhibits. Of the 25 member galleries of the Jackson Hole Gallery Association, seven are owned or run solely by women and a handful are owned by husband-and-wife teams. There are four galleries founded and run by women artists (Ringholz Studios, Gallery Wild, Turner Fine Art, and Thal Glass Studio). The leader of the nonprofit Jackson Hole Public Art is a woman (Carrie Geraci), as is the executive director of the Jackson Hole Art Association (Jennifer Lee), which annually teaches about 220 art classes a year to more than 1,000 students of all ages. Hit one of the Art Association’s two summer Art Fairs and you’ll see an almost equal number of male and female artists. Same for the NMWA’s Plein Air Fest, Etc. “Our town has so many talented women in leading roles in the visual arts, which is really an incredible thing,” Brownfield says.

ROSA BONHEUR AND WOMEN WILDLIFE ARTISTS

In 2022, the National Museum of Wildlife Art curated the exhibit Bonheur & Beyond: Celebrating Women in Wildlife Art, which highlighted work in its permanent collection by women artists. Among the artists included was Rosa Bonheur, who was “one of the most famous women artists of the 19th century and one of the most esteemed animal painters in history,” says the museum’s curator of art, Tammi Hanawalt, PhD.

Bonheur (1822–1899) was the eldest of four children born to an artist father and a piano teacher mother. The family lived in Paris, and when she was 14, Bonheur began to study art at the Louvre. In 1841, when she was 19, Bonheur made her debut at the prestigious Paris Salon, and within several years her work was in demand by collectors. Her 1848 painting Plouging in the Nivernais hangs in the Musée d’Orsay, and her 8-by-16-foot painting The Horse Fair hangs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art. (At the time of its debut, an American publication called the latter nothing less than “the world’s greatest animal picture.”) The NMWA has six pieces of Bonheur’s in its permanent collection.

While Bonheur & Beyond: Celebrating Women in Wildlife Art is no longer on display, plenty of works by women artists are part of the permanent collection, including Bonheur’s King of the Forest. “[Bonheur’s] command of naturalism is evidenced in the way she painted the unique qualities of her subject matter,” Hanawalt says. “She painted animals’ vitality, their life force—it was how she showed her respect.”

Here are three other female artists to look for at the NMWA: Harriet Whitney Frishmuth (1880–1980), who studied with August Rodin at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, collaborated with sculptor Karl Illava on Diana (The Hunt). In the work, Diana, the goddess of wild animals and the hunt in Roman mythology, clasps a bow and appears to float atop of, or run above, two wild wolfhounds. Frishmuth sculpted Diana; Illava sculpted the two wolfhounds.

Anna Hyatt Huntington (1876–1973) spent countless hours observing a jaguar named Señor Lopez at the New York Zoological Society (now the Bronx Zoo) as the model for two sculptures in the museum’s permanent collection, Jaguar and Resting Jaguar Huntington was a significant American artist in the early 20th century but, “her accomplishments, like Bonheur’s, have been overlooked historically,” Hanawalt says. “She was not necessarily promoted as the skillful and creative artist that she was.”

The museum has six works by Lander-based artist Sandy Scott in its permanent collection, including two sculptures on its sculpture trail, the monumental-sized Presidential Eagle and Sovereign Wings “She is an important artist of our time who continues to create large installation piece sculptures,” Hanawalt says.

Other women artists to look for on display include Georgia O’Keeffe, Lindsay Scott, Donna Howell-Sickles, Lanford Monroe, Kathy Wipfler, Sherry Salari Sander, and Kathryn Mapes Turner.

Anna Hyatt Huntington spent hours at the New York Zoological Society observing a jaguar to inform these works. JKM Collection, National Museum of Wildlife Art.

Rosa Bonheur's King of the Forest is one of six works by the 19th century French artist in the NMWA's permanent collection. JKM Collection, National Museum of Wildlife Art.

Harriet Whitney Frishmuth collaborated with Karl Illava on Diana (The Hunt). Gift of the 2021 Collectors Circle, National Museum of Wildlife Art.

ENJOY

There is a very high percentage of women-owned and women-run galleries in Jackson Hole, which is exciting.”

—MARIAM DIEHL, FOUNDER OF DIEHL GALLERY

Hanawalt says this improves the Jackson Hole art scene. “I think with any art experience, the more perspectives you have, the more your experience is enhanced,” she says. “If I see a lot of different perspectives, that can only enrich my experience. And it makes me more aware of the whole world instead of just a little piece.”

Two decades ago, two subject matters, painted traditionally, dominated Jackson Hole’s art scene—the West and wildlife. Today, you can still find traditional takes on Western and wildlife art in our galleries, but there are also galleries that represent artists painting and sculpting these subjects from nontraditional perspectives. And there are galleries that don’t have a single piece of art with wildlife, cowboys, or Native Americans in them. Brownfield credits the valley’s female gallerists for this evolution. “It’s not impossible for women

to relate to cowboy art, but they are often male-dominated deals,” she says. “I think the women running galleries here went looking for art and artists they felt they related to more and they were more passionate about, and that still held a sense of place yet expressed it in a different manner.”

Mariam Diehl is one such gallerist. She bought the Jackson Hole Meyer Gallery in 2005 after having been its director for several years. Founded in Park City in 1965 and expanding with a Jackson branch in 2001, Meyer Gallery represented many of the finest traditional Western and wildlife artists. After purchasing the Jackson location, Diehl spent several years slowly transitioning its roster of artists to be more contemporary. In 2005, she told the Jackson Hole News&Guide, “I had been doing research on artists for some time—artists whose work I liked or who I had heard great things about—and as soon as it seemed likely I was going to get the gallery, I started tracking them down.” When she had fully transitioned the gallery, in 2008, Diehl renamed it Diehl Gallery. “At that point, I felt that the artists in the gallery were all ones that I really loved and whose work I was passionate about.”

The fact that Diehl Gallery’s stable of artists fluctuates between 30 and 50 percent women is a bonus. “I do make a conscious effort to represent women artists, but not at the expense of the quality of the art in the gallery,” she says. “It is most important to me to represent talented artists and artwork that I really love rather than focus on the sex of the artists I represent.” Which perhaps is the goal of any woman artist. One of painter Georgia O’Keeffe’s most wellknown quotes speaks to this: “Men put me down as the best woman painter. I think I’m one of the best painters.”

The 2023 opening at Shari Brownfield Fine Art for the exhibition No Man’s Land drew locals and visitors. The exhibit included 41 artworks by 21 female artists spanning from the 1950s to today.

COURTESY SHARI BROWNFIELD FINE ART

WYOMING WOMEN TO WATCH

Last year was the first that Wyoming was part of the National Museum of Women in the Arts’ roughly triennial Women to Watch exhibition series. The exhibition is a global survey of work by women artists and a collaboration between the National Museum of Women in the Arts and state-led committees. The late Wyoming-based arts advocate Lisa Claudy Fleischman led a group that was able to raise the funds needed to include Wyoming in the 2024 exhibit, which had the theme of “New Worlds.”

Wyoming women artists were invited to share their work with a selection committee, which included Jackson-based art consultant Shari Brownfield and Tammi Hanawalt, PhD, the curator of art at the National Museum of Wildlife Art. From this group, the committee selected five artists’ work to submit to the National Museum of Women in the Arts, which then picked one to be included in the exhibit.

The five Wyoming women artists presented to the National Museum of Women in the Arts were: Jennifer Rife (Cheyenne), Bronwyn Minton (Jackson), Leah Hardy (Laramie), Katy Ann Fox (Jackson), and Sarah Ortegnon High Walking (a member of the Eastern Shoshone tribe). High Walking’s piece—a painting capturing four different jingle dresses, each of which represents a season and that appears to move—was selected to be one of the 28 works in the exhibit, which was on display from April 14–August 11, 2024. “Even throughout history, there’s not a whole lot of women artists that are recognized,” High Walking told Wyoming Public Radio. “But the women that were recognized were very powerful artists. And so, it just means a lot to me.” JH

LivingHistory

Buildings in Jackson Hole

// BY EMILY COHEN

Straddling a saddle at the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, customers can imbibe a whisky on the rocks and drink in the bar’s distinct aesthetic, which includes knobbled pine, taxidermied wildlife, and illuminated murals of Western grandeur. The honky-tonk establishment embodies some of the region’s most iconic historic architecture—both inside and out. It’s a holdover from Jackson’s earliest tourism days in the 1930s and is recognized as a landmark by the Teton County Historic Preservation Board.

The mission of this nine-member volunteer board is to identify, protect, and preserve Teton County’s architectural and archaeological heritage to ensure respectful planning and development that preserves our sense of place and community character. Some of the historic properties in the region conjure “Wild West” imagery—not just log cabins, but also wooden facades with false fronts, overhangs, porches, and boardwalks. Any building older than 50 years can be consid-

Some of the historic properties in the region conjure “Wild West” imagery—not just log cabins, but also wooden facades with false fronts, overhangs, porches, and boardwalks.

ered historic, as long as it also meets integrity and significance criteria: Does it reflect the period in which it was built? Has it been significantly modified or changed? Did an important local live there, or did the building represent something important to the area’s history? By these standards, mid-20thcentury buildings like the Alpenhof Lodge in Teton Village (built in 1965) and Jackson Lake Lodge in Grand Teton National Park (built in 1955) have merited recognition.

While some of the region’s historic buildings are a clear nod to the booming tourism

industry, Maggie Moore, an art historian and TCHPB member, describes the region’s earliest architecture—from the 1880s—as “scrappy.” That’s because the region’s settlers had to make do with limited resources. Building supplies were hard to come by. There was no railroad, so materials were brought in over Teton Pass. “And that was just never easy. It was easier just to make do with what you had from the local landscape,” says Moore. That making do meant sourcing wood from the area’s plentiful lodgepole pine. To this day, Jackson’s architecture remains distinct—even from other towns in Wyoming like Lander and Laramie—both of which developed along the railroad—where masonry and main streets define the aesthetic.

In recent years, development has changed Jackson Hole, making the urgency to preserve the region’s history even more pressing. Moore says that in the decade she’s lived in Jackson, the built landscape has changed a lot. In 2021, the Town of Jackson passed regulations to incentivize property owners to preserve the historic integrity and Western character of the downtown area around the Town Square. It complements the preservation efforts underway elsewhere in the county, including in Grand Teton National Park.

Property owners voluntarily petition the historic preservation board to list their property. The board then reviews the property’s historical records and architectural plans, and sometimes even conducts physical inspections. Buildings that have been altered or are not in their exact original state may still qualify if they retain significant historical or architectural value. Once a property is approved, the building is under a protective easement, and any modifications, relocations, and additions have to be approved by the preservation board.

There are 14 properties on the historic register within the town of Jackson and 62 properties and districts elsewhere within the county. By safeguarding these properties, the board hopes the region’s rich history is more than a charming nod to the past, but also an integral part of its future.

Ed Coe ran a blacksmith shop from approximately 1930 to 1936. It is not known whether he built the building (which today is home to King Sushi), whether it was already on the site, or whether it was moved to this location. Moving and repurposing structures was, and to some extent still is, a relatively common occurrence in Jackson Hole. Coe’s residence was just next door, at the corner of Pearl Avenue and King Street. According to the shop’s historical survey, its closing in 1936 was a sign that the town was no longer oriented to the needs of a rural society—“indications of progress and growth but also tragedy,” it said. 75 S. King St., Jackson

Built in 1965, The Alpenhof is a nod to German and Swiss ski chalets and is one of the only remaining examples of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s original style. Dominating the building’s exterior are pitched roofs and balconies embellished with ornate balusters, and in the summer, flower boxes filled with pink petunias. Visitors can dine on classic German dishes like wiener schnitzel, bratwurst, and pretzels in the lodge’s restaurant or retire for the night in cozy rooms adorned with hand-carved bed frames and Tyrolean decor. 3255 Village Dr., Teton Village

Accessible via a 2.7-mile out-and-back cross-country ski or snowshoe, Whitegrass Ranch was once an active dude ranch. The property hosted guests from 1919 to 1985 and at times also served as a farm for silver fox pelts. When the ranch was turned over to Grand Teton National Park in 1986, the National Park Service first aimed to return it to its natural setting by removing irrigation systems, fencing, a manmade pond, and all of the buildings. But, in 1990, before the ranch’s 13 remaining log cabins were removed, ideas about historic preservation shifted, and the Whitegrass was listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Today the ranch, with its historic cabins, is home to the Western Center for Historic Preservation, where craftspeople from park service units across the country come to train in preservation techniques for Western rustic architecture.

1168 Whitegrass Ranch Rd., Moose

BRADLY J. BONER

Considered a well-preserved example of residential structures constructed in the early period of Jackson settlement— a time when land was plentiful but building materials were limited—the Wort House was the home of one of the valley’s most influential families. The exact date of the home’s construction is unknown, but the Worts, who founded the Wort Hotel in downtown, acquired it in 1933. Though log construction, the home’s exterior was covered in clapboard siding for many decades, and was only recently restored to its original design. 155 W. Pearl Ave., Jackson

Built between 1930 and 1945 as part of a working ranch on the south side of Highway 22 near the base of Teton Pass, the Hardeman Barn complex includes a main barn, bunkhouse, pump house, horse barn, and bull barn. Each of the logconstructed buildings features Scandinavian-style board and batten siding on the gable ends. The prominent main barn, with its dramatic Gothic arch roof, was built by Wesley Bircher, a notable builder responsible for several barns in the area. The buildings sit on approximately 27 acres of protected open space, conserved by an easement held by the Jackson Hole Land Trust. The property is now home to the Teton Raptor Center. 5450 Wyoming Hwy 22, Wilson JH

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HotDesign

TIncreasing in popularity, home saunas look simple, but the design process behind them requires serious thought.

he earliest saunas, believed to be about 10,000 years old, were pits. Literally. A hole was dug into an embankment, stones piled on its bottom, and a campfire was built to heat the stones. Once the stones were hot, the opening to the pit was covered with animal skins, wattle, peat, or thatch to keep in the heat. (The Finnish word “sauna” is thought to come from the Sámi word soudnje, which means “pit in the ground.”) While the function of a sauna—a super-heated space in which you can sit or lie—has changed little since the days of pit saunas, the form of saunas has evolved.

Finland is the culture most associated with saunas—in 2020, Finnish

sauna was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List—and most of today’s saunas take the look of these: spaces with wood-clad walls, benches for sitting or lying down, an electric or wood-burning heat source, a pile of stones, and minimal ornamentation. “To achieve a sauna design that is clean and simple, the details are very thoughtful and complex,” says architect Shawn Ankeny, founder of and principal at Ankeny Architecture and Design. Speaking about a sauna in a Jackson Hole home for which she was the architect of record, Ankeny says, “The design was simple, but not simplistic.”

Part of the home’s primary wing, which also includes the primary bed-

room, a spa bathroom, a gym, and a steam shower, this sauna features an abundance of indirect lighting, a Harvia electric heater, and a design with the appearance of “floating” wood materials and of the floor being a continuation of the bench. Because of these design elements, “When you’re in there, it feels very zen,” says Ankeny, who worked with project architect Brian Messana, of Messana O’Rorke, on the residence. Although many of the inspiration photos the homeowners shared with Ankeny and Messana were of saunas clad in clear cedar, the designers used Western red cedar that had some variation for the project. “It’s not perfectly perfect, which is more approachable for a Jack-

son Hole home,” Ankeny says. “It feels more rustic.”

Because saunas are not meant to be big—all the more space to heat—they can feel like closets. Ankeny and Messana did a frosted glass door (instead of cedar-clad) on their sauna so that it didn’t feel claustrophobic, Ankeny says.

A sauna in a home designed by Eric Logan, a principal at CLB Architects, has a floor-to-ceiling window. Facing the natural light-filled gym, this window expands the feel of the sauna. “This window isn’t about creating views, but about borrowing light,” Logan says.

Initially, the CLB-designed sauna wasn’t going to have merely a window to the gym, but be accessed directly from

the gym. “We figured out that didn’t make as much sense as connecting the sauna to the bathroom, though,” Logan says. “You would have stepped out of the sauna onto the wood floor of the gym and then come back around the corner to the bathroom. At some point in the process, we connected the sauna with the bathroom, which allowed us to make a beautiful and simple elevation. As you see the sauna from the gym, the window is a portal that looks into a cedar room.” Further elevating this sauna experience is an intentional materiality that imbues the space with weight and texture, and determines how it will age and patina. (Or not age and patina— among the reasons cedar is used in sau-

KEVIN SCOTT

A glass wall in a CLB-designed home sauna helps keep it from feeling like a closet.

Saunas have been used around the world for millennia by Indigenous cultures in Mexico and North America, Finns, Swedes, Norwegians, South Koreans, Danes, Japanese, Russians, and Turks, among others. Saunas and sweat lodges were also used in the ancient Islamic world.

nas is its natural resistance to moisture and temperature changes, which keeps it from warping or rotting over time.)

While the location of most rooms/ spaces within a home is influenced by their use—the dining area is close to the kitchen; the laundry room close to the mud room, which is close to the garage; home offices and bedrooms are away from busy and potentially loud public spaces like a great room or media room—a sauna’s location depends on how homeowners want to use it. “Some people want their sauna to be

theirs alone. Others want their guests to be able to use their sauna,” Ankeny says. Do you want to sauna after you come in from an outdoor area, or sauna before you shower? For clients who wanted to sauna after they came home from skiing, Ankeny did a sauna off a ski room. And there’s also the possibility of making the sauna a separate structure outside of the house.

“I like the idea of making a sauna a destination,” Ankeny says. “It makes it even more special—to walk through a winter landscape, get there, and be warm.”

Hygge Hut's mobile sauna can be delivered to private homes and guest ranches around the valley.

WHY SAUNA?

There are almost as many reasons to sauna as there are cultures that have a history of saunas and sweat lodges. Regular dry sauna bathing has potential health benefits that include reduced incidence of dementia and vascular diseases like high blood pressure and stroke and a reduced risk of pulmonary and rheumatic diseases. Sauna bathing might also increase performance in athletes.

Saunas can also be a way to connect with others. “I always go back to the sense of community I have with my friends in my sauna,” says Ben Meyring, who has had a sauna big enough to fit 12 people in his home for 10 years. “We’re just in there hanging out and talking and spending time together. Our lives are so busy, and a sauna forces you to sit across from someone and chat.” Also, saunas feel good, especially when the winter is as long as it is in Wyoming. “A sauna is great to do post-ski,” says Tycen Birch, the founder of Hygge Hut, a rentable mobile sauna. When Meyring is out backcountry skiing, he says he starts thinking about being in his sauna about half-way through his day. “It’s something I really start to look forward to,” he says.

Architect Shawn Ankeny designed a home sauna so that its benches look like a continuation of the floor.

JACKSON HOLE

SAUNA WHERE YOU WANNA

Tycen Birch founded Hygge Hut, Wyoming’s first mobile sauna business, in the autumn of 2023. The prior autumn, “I was on the phone with a buddy and he was telling me about a mobile sauna he went to in Minnesota, and I just thought, ’Jackson Hole would be perfect for that,’” he says. Birch spent the 2022–2023 winter in a friend’s garage in East Jackson building a sauna on the back of a trailer. Finished in May 2023, the sauna trailer (license plate “SAUNA”) is 14-feet long, a length that fits in most standard residential driveways in the area. Its first summer, the cedar-clad sauna was “tested” by Birch and his friends. “We took it to some cool places,” Birch says. “We drove it down to the [Snake] River and would sauna and then hop into the Snake River. It was a good way to spend an evening.”

Since officially launching Hygge Hut, Birch has rented and delivered it to private residences and guest ranches. (While currently working on getting a permit to deliver Hygge Hut to places on the Bridger-Teton National Forest, including around the Snake River, Birch is not yet able to offer drop-offs on the national forest to paying customers.) “It’s mostly homeowners with friends and family in town,” he says. But corporate retreats and weddings have also rented it. “A lot of people rent it for post-ski rejuvenation sessions.”

With a changing room and space for up to eight people, the Hygge Hut is 100 percent off-grid and comes fully stocked with fire starter, kindling, and wood. Its wood-burning stove takes between 60 and 90 minutes to get the sauna up to temperature. Birch also offers a mobile cold plunge. From $390 (for one night/two days), hyggehutsauna.com JH

ROOM TO GATHER.

Entertaining

SAD DON’T BE

Winter blues and depression can sap joy and are often worse in places like Jackson Hole, but there are ways to combat the sadness the season can bring.

// BY BEVIN WALLACE

It was mid-January a few years ago, and I was a bit of a wreck—moody and weepy and easily pissed off for no apparent reason. The post-holiday blues, I told myself. My family didn’t want anything to do with me and avoided eye contact as we schlepped our skis and poles to the base area and stood in the lift line at the beginning of a day of skiing, which was feeling more like forced family fun than anything else. I wished I was still in bed.

DINA MISHEV

“Exercise is huge,” says Lindsay Long, MSW, LCSW. “I say ‘exercise’ with caution though, because that can get taken to an extreme in a community like ours. It’s really easy to get an all-or-nothing mindset that exercise either needs to be something big or it doesn’t count. You don’t have to go hike the Grand Teton to reap the benefits of moving your body.” Walking your dog, parking farther away from your destination, or doing a quick workout video on YouTube are all perfectly legit ways to get moving.

Seasonal Affective Disorder

and the winter blues are real conditions. Either can make you want to hibernate under the covers with a bottle of whiskey. Or worse. It’s crucial that you take heed and seek help.

Even if you’re just a little down but not suffering from SAD in a clinical sense, it’s still important to take positive steps to protect your mental health as the winter drags on. Find activities you enjoy, and do them with people you enjoy. “For some people, that is skiing. It can also be snow biking, snowshoeing, ice skating, hockey, or arts, education, or cultural activities that help make social connections while learning something new,” says Long. “The Rec Center is a great way to get out of the house, be around people, and do some sort of activity. It’s also a powerful experience to share what you’re going through with a trusted support person, whether that’s a friend, a therapist, or a partner. You don’t have to sit in it alone.”

At the time, I did not have merely a case of the winter blues, but was diagnosed with Seasonal Affective Disorder, a form of depression that occurs at roughly the same time each year. It is believed to be related to decreased exposure to sunlight due to shorter days in the winter, which can cause changes in circadian rhythms and levels of serotonin and vitamin D. Unlike the

winter blues, which can make you feel sad and want to stay home but does not render you unable to function, SAD is a depressive disorder that does interfere with your ability to function. It is diagnosed by a doctor or mental health professional, and, according to the American Psychiatric Association, SAD affects about 5 percent of the U.S. population (over 10 million people)

for 40 percent of the year. Women are about four times more likely to experience it than men.

My symptoms were fairly mild (even if my kids remember otherwise)—irritability, low energy, and a bad mood—and so far, haven’t returned. But SAD can be serious. Other common symptoms include hopelessness, isolation from friends, loss of interest in activities you

One of the most common treatments for SAD and the winter blues is light therapy, which involves sitting in front of a lightbox that provides sunlight-simulating light (without UV damage) for about 30 minutes a day. (I checked Amazon, and they have almost 250 results for “SAD therapy light” ranging in price from $20 to over $1,500.) Also, try to spend as much time outside during daylight hours as you can; fresh air and sunlight can work wonders.

Psychotherapy can help treat SAD and the winter blues. “Cognitive Behavioral Therapy is an evidence-based therapy that helps people look at thoughts and behaviors that impact their mood and then make helpful changes to improve mood,” says Long. This form of therapy is collaborative and very personalized based on the patient’s interests and strengths, and it provides tools that can be used to combat many mood disorders, including SAD.

Even if you feel like isolating yourself in your house all day, it’s important to find a way to connect regularly with supportive people in your life. “That might look different from day to day—sometimes you might be able to do a meal with friends, sometimes it might be a phone call or FaceTime with a support person, other times it might be a good conversation with a coworker,” says Long. “Whatever it looks like for you, make plans to connect.”

A healthy diet might help improve SAD and winter blues symptoms. Many of us are familiar with the other meaning of the acronym SAD: Standard American Diet, which is described by the National Institutes of Health as a high intake of processed foods, refined sugars, and unhealthy fats, and a low intake of whole grains, fruits, and vegetables. This is generally considered to be what not to eat to improve your health and well-being (even if you’re depressed and all you feel like eating is cookies and potato chips), and it’s probably a good idea to eat the opposite of that—more vegetables, lean protein, and whole grains. However, nutrition is very complex and highly personalized, and different dietary approaches might not be right for everyone. Check with your doctor before adopting a specialized diet.

usually enjoy, lack of energy or motivation, inability to focus or concentrate, appetite changes or cravings, and disrupted sleep. Lindsay Long, MSW, LCSW, behavioral health resource coordinator at St. John’s Health, says it’s important to seek support by contacting your primary care doctor if you feel “off” or notice any signs that concern you—don’t ignore the winter blues or SAD (as if you could) or try to tough it out. “It is crucial to reach out for help if you experience any thoughts of hurting yourself,

thoughts of not wanting to be alive, or thoughts of ending your life,” Long says. “There are lots of community resources to help folks who are in crisis.”

Because SAD is thought to be related to decreased exposure to sunlight, it is not surprising that its prevalence is higher the farther north (or south) of the equator you go. “Jackson is pretty far north compared to a lot of places, so we see significant changes in the amount of sunlight we have when we move from long summer days into short winter

days,” Long says. “This has an impact on people experiencing SAD symptoms.”

On December 21, the shortest day of the year, Jackson Hole gets only about eight hours of sunlight (compared to about 16 hours of sunlight on the longest day of the year). That’s the bad news for Jacksonites. The good news is there are many things you can do (beyond moving to Tahiti) that can help with SAD and the winter blues. Your doctor or therapist should always be your first resource as you navigate this condition, though. JH

Antidepressants such as SSRIs can be used to treat the depressive symptoms of SAD and help improve mood during the winter months. “Medication can be the thing that gives someone a little bit of traction to get going and be able to engage in activities and behaviors that help their mood. Folks can talk to their primary care doctor about what options are best for them,” says Long. JH

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Where can I go to get a date in Jackson Hole?

OH, WOW. YOU'RE GOING FOR IT, ARE YOU? ARE YOU OVER 30?

Are you familiar with the phrases “Hucking it” or “It's all good”?

WHAT? WAIT. I AM LOST

OMG wait. Are you a woman?

OBVIOUSLY NO NO NO

And you’ve tried online?

Doesn’t matter. It’s still a disaster.

Sorry. Game over dinosaur.

That’s weird. Are you sure you live here & aren’t lost?

That’s great! Go anywhere else.

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WHAT IF THAT DOESNT WORK?

It’s there right now. Is that possible?

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ARE YOU ABLE TO GET YOUR HEART RATE UP TO 190 BPMS? THEN WHAT?

SLC OR DENVER

We don’t know. Maybe head to a coffee shop with a laptop or (gasp!) a book & see how it goes.

GALLERIES

Whether you’re passionate about plein-air, a serious collector of Western paintings by contemporary or deceased masters, or a casual art fan searching for a keepsake to remind you of your time spent here, in Jackson Hole you have the opportunity to enjoy art in a multitude of forms. Over the past two decades, Jackson Hole has grown to become one of the most heralded art centers of the West, popping off the tongues of aficionados alongside the likes of Santa Fe, Palo Alto, and Scottsdale. Begin by visiting some of the galleries highlighted here, which show the diversity of art available in the valley, from traditional wildlife and Western art to contemporary paintings and sculptures.

Specializing in the finest classical Western and American art for over 35 years, the Coeur d’Alene Art Auction realized over $21 million in 2024 sales with over 95% of all lots sold. Recognized by the Wall Street Journal as “the nation’s biggest and most successful auction of Western art,” we are now accepting quality consignments for our 2025 Auction to be held July 26 in Reno, Nevada.

Gallery Wild, located in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Santa Fe, New Mexico, showcases contemporary fine art inspired by wildlife, open spaces, and conservation. Our collection features established and emerging artists who offer a variety of mediums including oil and acrylic paintings, bronze sculpture, mixed media, and photography. Gallery Wild’s mission is to inspire collectors and impassion others to help protect wildlife and wild places for future generations through the acquisition and enjoyment of fine art.

Altamira Fine Art, located in downtown Jackson, is a leading fine art gallery representing works by top contemporary Western artists. We offer an annual schedule of exhibitions, consultation, and acquisition assistance. Altamira’s diverse collection of fine art ranges in media, from oil and acrylic painting to contemporary glass and bronze. Whether connecting with contours of Native American pottery or recalling a mountain memory within an abstract landscape, people who walk through our doors recognize the essential value of art in their lives. Two locations: Jackson, WY and Scottsdale, AZ.

172 CENTER STREET

307/739-4700

ALTAMIRAART.COM

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GALLERY WILD

JACKSON HOLE JEWELRY CO.

Discover the shape of Western style with a custom hat-fitting experience. Founded on a proud Wyoming heritage that embraces the people, integrity, and lasting values of the West, JW Bennett hats are handcrafted using refined skill, attention to detail, and traditional techniques. Our style is modern, sophisticated, gritty, and beautiful. Visit our boutique for a personal experience and leave with a memory of the Mountain West that is uniquely yours.

From their workshop in the Tetons, New West KnifeWorks celebrates the art of knifemaking. Combining cutting-edge design with the highest performance, American-made particle metallurgy steel, each blade is made by individual makers who pour their expertise and passion into every detail. New West’s shop on the Town Square resembles an art gallery with gorgeous, custom-forged knives framed on the wall and the makers' signature stone knife blocks arrayed on pedestals like fine knife sculpture.

Founded in 1987, the National Museum of Wildlife Art is a world-class museum and nonprofit located in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The Museum’s collection boasts more than 5,000 artworks representing wild animals from around the world. Featuring work by prominent artists such as N.C. Wyeth, Georgia O’Keeffe, Andy Warhol, Bob Kuhn, Albert Bierstadt, and Carl Rungius, the Museum’s unsurpassed permanent collection chronicles much of the history of wildlife in art, from 2500 B.C.E. to the present.

55 N. GLENWOOD

307/201-5669 JWBENNETT.COM

Specializing in Golden South Sea pearls and heirloom strands, Pearls by Shari brings the elegance of pearls to the heart of the Tetons. With over 20 years of pearlbuying experience, Shari Turpin brings unparalleled expertise to each design featured at 90 E. Broadway and Neiman Marcus locations nationwide. Whether you are memorializing your trip to Jackson or want to add a one-of-a-kind pearl design to your jewelry collection, Pearls by Shari features the widest selection of high-quality pearls in the United States. Make an appointment or stop by our showroom located on the Town Square.

90 E. BROADWAY

307/734-0553

PEARLSBYSHARI.COM

98 CENTER STREET 307/733-4193 NEWWESTKNIFEWORKS.COM

As an artist owner and operator, Sonia Tonkin is known for her magnificent Sun Collection and one-of-a-kind fine jewelery designs.

The gallery complements Sonia’s beautiful pieces with an array of well-curated arts, minerals, crystals, and unique finds.. Come on in! You will surely find ‘’what tickles you heart.’’

36 E. BROADWAY

307/200-6757

SONIATONKIN.COM

2820 RUNGIUS ROAD 307/733-5771 WILDLIFEART.ORG

The West Lives On Gallery features fine art reflecting the rich heritage of the American West. Featuring Western, wildlife, and landscape art in our traditional and contemporary galleries, the West Lives On Gallery has been representing over 100 national and regional artists since 1998.

55 & 75 N. GLENWOOD

307/734-2888

WESTLIVESON.COM

PEARLS BY SHARI

SONIA TONKIN FINE JEWELRY

WEST LIVES ON GALLERY

ENJOY

DINING GUIDE

FIGS | 307/201-5350 | JACKSON

Vegetarian and vegan friendly, Mediterranean-inspired small plates/entrees.

Gather JH | 307/264-1820 2 | JACKSON

Creative cuisine and mountain views. Famous Brussels sprouts, pork bao buns, elk bolognese. Nora's Fish Creek Inn | 307/733-7662 | WILSON

A local favorite! 100-year old log cabin open for breakfast, lunch, dinner; pizza 7 days a week.

Palate | 307/201-5208 | NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART

An artful lunch with a view in Jackson Hole.

Silver Dollar Bar & Grill | 307/732-3939 | JACKSON

Breakfast, lunch, dinner, happy hour, and live music.

Snake River Brewing Co. | 307/739-2337 | JACKSON

Serving up 12 taps and Alpine-inspired dishes 7 days a week, 11am–10pm. Brunch on Saturday & Sunday, 8am–11am. Wyoming’s oldest and America’s most award-winning small craft brewery.

Snake River Roasting Co. | 307/312-2382 | JACKSON

Serving specialty, locally roasted coffee alongside food provided by Provisions Dining Group.

StillWest Brewery and Grill | 307/201-5955 | JACKSON

On-site brewery, extensive wine list, and seasonal menu with mountainside dining on our patio.

Teton Thai | 307/733-0022 | TETON VILLAGE

Dine in and take out in Teton Village. tetonthaivillage.com

Wind River Hotel & Casino | 866/657-1604 | RIVERTON

Discover signature cut steaks and succulent seafood inside Wind River Casino.

FOUR SEASONS

Ascent Lounge | 307/732-5613 | TETON VILLAGE

Creative bartenders at our popular slopeside bar, where pan-Asian inspired plates are best shared either by the wood-burning fireplace or outside on the heated patio.

First Chair Grab & Go | 307/732-5620 | TETON VILLAGE

Slopeside grab & go, your perfect pit stop for mountain adventures.

The Handle Bar | 307/732-5156 | TETON VILLAGE

Grab a seat at our American pub and beer hall, featuring a wide selection of American and international beers, whiskeys, and provisions.

Westbank Grill | 307/732-5620 | TETON VILLAGE

Enjoy panoramic views of Teton Village and Rendezvous Peak, a dynamic open kitchen, and a cozy setting at our inviting mountain steakhouse.

GRAND TARGHEE

Powder Cache Bar and Grill | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT

Full bar with craft cocktails, wine list, and Rocky Mountain Fare.

Snorkels Café | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT

Grab-and-go café with homemade breakfast, lunch, pastries, and coffee bar. Trap Bar & Grill | 307/353-2300 | GRAND TARGHEE RESORT

A legendary Targhee bar with sports, live music, and our famous WYDAHO Nachos.

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Piste Mountain Bistro | 307/732-3177 | TOP OF BRIDGER GONDOLA

Enjoy Rocky Mountain cuisine at 9,095 feet. Book on Open Table. Gondola lunch ticket, season pass, or day lift ticket required.

Tram Dock Kitchen & Bar | 307/739-2738 | TETON VILLAGE

Tram Dock offers outdoor seating on a comfortable patio, music and drinks at the four-sided bar, and a menu fit to satisfy every appetite.

Trapper's | MID-STATION OF SWEETWATER GONDOLA

Elevated on-mountain dining experience offering stunning views and exceptional cuisine in a warm and lively setting

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN

King's Grill | 307/201-KING | JACKSON

Classic American menu. Happy hour. Families welcome!

Snow King Cafe | 307/201-KING | JACKSON

Open for events only with sandwiches, burgers, beers, and kids meals.

Coming Winter 24/25: Snow King Summit | Top of Snow King Gondola | JACKSON

Mountain Cuisine with the best view of Jackson Hole in the valley. Fine wines, craft beer, and fine dining.

// BY MIKE KOSHMRL

MOOSE LOOSE ON THE

One of Jackson Hole’s most iconic large ungulates, moose, only showed up in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem about a century ago. At first, they thrived, but then the population crashed. It still hasn’t come back.

Sometimes they barrel out of the timber and tear down the slopes, sending skiers scampering for safety. On other occasions, they’re holding up traffic, maybe even near the Jackson Town Square. Or perhaps one decides to make its bed right in your backyard. They’re massive, about six feet from hoof to shoulder and weighing up to 1,000 pounds. Although lumbering in appearance, they can run as fast as 35 miles an hour, so don’t get too close. (Don’t think water will keep you safe, either; they can swim up to six miles an hour for up to two hours at a stretch.) While not normally aggressive, they will charge if stressed or agitated, and these

attacks can be deadly. Although they haven’t killed any humans in Jackson Hole, they’ve injured plenty. Humans inflict a more significant toll on these animals that share our environment, killing about 30 of them annually on the highways in and around the valley.

The species? Moose.

Alces alces, the largest member of the deer family on the planet, has long captured the fascination of residents and visitors to the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, dating back to when they first arrived. It wasn’t that long ago, relatively. There is zero archaeological evidence of moose being in Wyoming before the 1800s, according to the Wyoming Game & Fish Department.

Generally, moose are a species of the far north’s boreal forest. Their native range stretches from the western tip of the Alaska Peninsula clear across North America. They’re found across Eurasia, too, all the way from Scandinavia into western Russia and into Siberia. The exact extent of moose range at the time Anglo fur traders and homesteaders arrived and occupied the American West is unclear, but indications are that there weren’t many south of the Canadian border. During the 1804–1806 Lewis and Clark expedition, for example, the exploration party documented only a single moose along the group’s route, which traveled through areas where moose are now commonplace.

While moose were translocated to other areas in the Rocky Mountains—like the Bighorn Mountains in north-central Wyoming (in the 1940s) and Colorado’s North Park region in the 1970s and ’80s—the moose that moved into the GYE did it on their own.

“They’re an example of a species naturally expanding into a new area,” says Aly Courtemanch, a wildlife biologist who has been keeping an eye over the Jackson moose herd for nearly a decade. There’s no ironclad explanation for why the Rocky Mountain’s subspecies of moose, known as the Shiras moose, were absent—and why they colonized this ecosystem a little over a century ago.

ADOBE STOCK

There are theories, though. In the early 1900s, large wildfires swept through the GYE, creating a mosaic of younger-aged forests. By the 1930s, wolves, predators of moose and seen as pests by settlers, had been mostly extirpated from the GYE. Simultaneously, grizzly bears, another predator, were hunted down to just a few hundred animals mostly confined to Yellowstone National Park. The grizzly population had declined enough that that species

“Moose started at a lower population for a couple of decades, but then the population just exponentially increased.

By the mid-1900s, thousands of moose dwelled in Jackson Hole and the mountains ringing the valley.”

—ALY COURTEMANCH, WILDLIFE BIOLOGIST

was placed on the Endangered Species List in 1975.

These conditions were like an invitation to moose living north of the GYE to wander south into the mountain ranges and valleys in and around Jackson Hole. “For instance, when moose first showed up on the Wind River Reservation—I think that was in the 1920s—one of the tribal members wasn’t sure what it was, because he had never seen a moose before,” says Joel Berger, a longtime scientist with

A Greater Yellowstone Coalition wildlife program coordinator holds a tranquilized moose’s head after it was collared in a neighborhood on the West Bank of the Snake River. The effort was part of a study to track the movements of moose inhabitating the area near the intersection of Highways 22 and 390.

the Wildlife Conservation Society who studied Jackson Hole moose in the early 2000s. “They moved into the Winds [a mountain range to the south and east of Jackson Hole], they moved into the Wyoming Range [south of Jackson Hole] on their own.”

The same conditions that brought moose to the region helped the population take off. “They started at a lower population for a couple of decades, but then the population just exponentially increased,” Courtemanch says. By the mid-1900s, thousands of moose dwelled in Jackson Hole and the mountains ringing the valley: the Tetons, Gros Ventres, Absarokas, and the Snake River and Wyoming Ranges. “Biologists at that time were counting over 1,000 moose during their winter surveys,” Courtemanch says. “And they were estimating [a population] of two to three times that.” Nowadays, elk hunting makes for routine banter come every September in Jackson Hole. Back up half a century, and the same could be said of the moose—hundreds of moose-hunting licenses were available locally.

The glory days of being a moose in Jackson Hole started sputtering by the end of the 20th century. The populations of predators grew, winter forage was reeling from decades of

A cow moose moves along the Snake River while munching on grasses at dusk. JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2025

over-browsing, and the climate started heating up.

In 1995 and ’96, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service reintroduced wolves to the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem

The highways and roads that conveniently tie Jackson Hole together for its human inhabitants are especially malignant to moose. In some years, as many as 30 moose get hit and killed in the valley.

and central Idaho wilderness areas. These animals—a total of 66 were reintroduced over the two years—thrived and resumed their natural role, preying on and eating moose. By the turn of the century, there were nearly 1,000

wolves in the GYE and wilderness complexes to the west in Idaho; the large carnivores quickly saturated the good habitat in Jackson Hole. Grizzly bears bounced back, too, with 1,000-plus animals radiating out throughout the ecosystem in recent years.

While predator populations were growing, the complexes of willow that moose rely on to survive the winters had been over-browsed by moose themselves and also by over-inflated elk herds and cattle that remained in the GYE’s valleys. “Willows in the ’80s and ’90s looked a lot different than they do today,” Courtemanch says. “They looked almost like a garden hedge; any annual growth was just gone because there were so many animals trying to eat those plants.”

Moose often hang out along Highway 22 near the Idaho state line, and motorists are advised to drive with caution in this area.

PROTECTING THE WILD PLACES YOU LOVE

WILDCOAST is working with local communities to conserve 38 million acres of globally important coastlines, coral reefs, mangrove forests, wildlands, sea turtle nesting beaches, and gray whale lagoons.

Thank you for keeping us in mind for your year-end giving.

Photo by Ernesto Mendez

especially in the river bottoms and riparian areas where moose like to dwell. Between the moose population heyday in the 1980s and today, the human population in Teton County nearly tripled. The highways and roads that conveniently tie the valley together for its human inhabitants were especially malignant to moose. “In some years, as many as 30 moose are getting hit and killed in Teton County,” Courtemanch says. Of course, highways in Teton County have always

claimed the lives of moose—even before traffic numbers exploded. But nowadays the toll that vehicular collisions take is especially impactful. “When we’re only counting 300 moose total, 30 moose is a lot,” Courtemanch says.

Today, moose aren’t necessarily in danger of disappearing from Jackson Hole—the numbers are mostly stable—but the population is a shell of

WHERE CAN I SEE A MOOSE?

Moose are one of the more highly sought-after species to see in Jackson Hole, says Taylor Phillips, a veteran wildlife guide and founder of Eco Tour Adventures. The long-legged, dark-brown animals can be denizens of backyards and timber stands, even in the Town of Jackson and developed areas like Teton Village and Wilson, but they’re especially fond of wetlands and areas where willows are found. It’s the reason for one of their nicknames: swamp donkeys. “Willows are a pretty large percentage of their diet in the wintertime,” Wyoming Game & Fish Department biologist Aly Courtemanch says. If you want to try to spot one on your own, Phillips says moose tend to congregate around Antelope Flats and the road to Kelly along the Gros Ventre River. Want help finding moose? There are a host of local wildlife safari companies. Phillips’s Eco Tour Adventures (jhecotouradventures.com) is one of the largest and oldest.

A bachelor herd of moose grazes on bitterbrush.

what it was. It is now about 80 percent smaller than it was at its peak in 1988, when biologists counted nearly 1,200 moose in their aerial surveys. Although numbers have mostly flattened, Courtemanch says there’s been little sign of recovery. Plenty of calves are being born, but their survival rates aren’t high enough for the population to increase.

The population of moose in Jackson Hole today, about 300, is approximately 80 percent of what it was at its peak in 1988, when it was nearly 1,200.

Although the Wyoming Game & Fish Department has a historical herd goal of 800 animals that dates to when numbers were much higher, that’s essentially an aspirational objective that is no longer achievable. “We’re not going to reach that anytime soon,” Courtemanch says. Over the last three years, the state agency’s surveys have tallied

an average of just 275 moose. (Notably, Jackson Hole isn’t the only portion of the United States where moose have struggled. Numbers have cratered in Minnesota. In other places like Maine and Colorado, however, populations have fared much better.)

While the population has stabilized, albeit at a much lower number, the individuals that make up the Jackson moose herd aren’t necessarily thriving. Courtemanch, who’s partaken in necropsies of animals that turn up dead, has encountered plenty of animals in residential areas that “aren’t doing very well,” she says. “We see quite a lot of moose dying. The moose closer to town, those are the ones with [high abundances of ticks].”

There are some causes for hope. Moose collisions on highways around the valley have generated a lot of attention, and in 2012 the Wyoming Department of Transportation reduced the nighttime speed limit on Highway 390, also known as Teton Village Road, in direct response to five moose that

Since 1999, Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools, has offered year-round guided tours in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Our snow coach provides a once in a lifetime chance to experience the solitude and serenity of Yellowstone National Park during winter. Tailored to recent wildlife sightings and group interests, each tour promises an enriching and unforgettable adventure in the heart of nature.

Though generally known as solitary animals, moose sometimes gather in areas where they find an abundance of protein- and nitrogen-rich food.

were hit and killed the previous winter. At the location of one of the worst problem areas, near the intersection of Highway 22 and Teton Village Road, there’s also infrastructure intended to reduce collisions in the works. The solution—a network of underpasses— was part of a road reconfiguration and bridge replacement that overall cost north of $60 million (obviously the underpasses are just a fraction of this). During the planning and design period—well before its targeted comple-

tion later this year—Courtemanch and her Game & Fish counterparts fit GPS collars onto animals to observe their movement patterns with great precision, and WYDOT located the underpasses accordingly. Hopefully, Courtemanch says, projects like the Highway 22/390 intersection redesign will help the Jackson moose herd turn a corner and begin growing again.

Another research effort being headed by the University of Wyoming could help Courtemanch and others

HELP COUNT MOOSE

For 15 years, the Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation has put on its annual Moose Day event—typically the last weekend of February or the first weekend of March. It’s a volunteer-based “citizen-science” survey of moose. “The biggest thing about getting our volunteers out on the ground is that it gets people's eyeballs on moose that can’t really be seen from a flight,” Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation executive director Renee Seidler says. “One, the moose might be under vegetation. Two, Game & Fish isn’t really allowed to fly over private lands looking for wildlife.” Moose Day is wildly popular, with volunteer retention near 100 percent. Another Jackson Hole Wildlife Foundation effort, known as Being Wild Jackson Hole, is more geared toward visitors—they head out with a biologist on a trail and count moose together. Questions about either? Visit jhwildlife.org or email Jessie Walters at jessie@jhwildlife.org.

RYAN

get their arms around where Jackson Hole’s moose go. “A lot of our moose are very migratory,” she says. Moose concentrate heavily along the valley floor in winter, but once the snow melts off, they spread out in almost every direction: north into the Teton Wilderness, east toward the Gros Ventre Range, and south toward the Wyoming Range. Soon, moose will receive GPS collars that inform UW biologists precisely where they head—and then wildlife managers will have new data at their disposal to best conserve moose habitat.

Another perk of the ecological examination is that it should also help provide some answers about what’s killing moose in northwest Wyoming. Willows in Jackson Hole and surrounding sub-valleys have largely bounced back from the era of intensive overbrowsing. And cows have been relatively successful over the last decade at giving birth to calves. Yet, the population has been mostly stagnant—a head-scratcher for some biologists. “One of the questions we’re trying to answer with this new research is, ‘Why isn’t the population increasing?’” Courtemanch says. Regardless of the cause, the moose of Jackson Hole could use a little help. (But not by feeding them— a harmful practice that has persisted even though it’s prohibited by Teton County’s zoning regulations.)

See a moose? Feel free to stop and take a look, but do so responsibly. In Grand Teton National Park, it’s illegal to come within 25 yards of a moose—a viewing threshold that perhaps ought to be abided by everywhere. For humans, it’s a matter of safety. For moose, it’s a matter of survival. “Over the years, I’ve seen too many visitors and locals alike approach too closely,” says Taylor Phillips, a wildlife guide who founded the Jackson-based company Eco Tour Adventures. “For moose—and for all wildlife—it’s important that we give them space and we don’t alter their behavior. We shouldn’t force them to burn extra calories. They need those calories to survive.” JH

POSTAL ... SERVICE?

HSorting the ins and outs of mail delivery in Jackson Hole.

H// BY EMILY COHEN

It’s a weekday afternoon at the “old” post office in downtown Jackson. It’s been a week since I checked my mail, and I run into two people I know while making my way to the “back of the stacks.” There’s a yellow slip in my box, signaling that I have a package waiting for me. But I don’t have the time to wait in an eight-person-deep line attended to by one mail clerk. So, I will come back another day.

Bill Hayes often bikes to the Wilson Post Office—a five-mile trek from his home off Moose-Wilson Road. He likes to come to the post office because it gets him out in the community. “I always inevitably bump into somebody I know or haven’t seen,” he says. Or, he says, he meets someone new. A friendly retiree, he moved to Wilson full-time in 2018 from Houston and finds his daily visits to the post office part of the charm of living in Jackson Hole. He says it’s also an excuse to stop by Hungry Jack’s General Store next door—and buy something he doesn’t need.

Jackson resident Elisabeth Rohrbach isn’t as charmed. She lives just blocks away from Jackson’s downtown branch on Pearl Avenue, but when asked about her thoughts on mail, she had a litany of complaints. “It’s closed for lunch now, so when can you go if you’re working? Why can’t we get home delivery? The system doesn’t work,” she says. “I mean, seventy-three cents for a stamp, come on.” Rohrbach finds having to go to the post office to get her mail inconvenient and frustrating, and that the lines for services are only getting worse. “Can’t they fix this?” she asks.

Rohrbach isn’t alone in her frustration. Over the years, there have been various attempts to improve mail in Jackson Hole, and the challenges here aren’t unique. Ski towns like Crested Butte,

POVIBES

WILSON 5605HIGHWAY22

ZIPCODE:83014

pioneerNamedafterNickWilson,aMormon andPonyExpressrider,thispost aboutofficeisatthebaseofTetonPass,has 2,100POBs,andchannelsaclassicOldWestfeel,atleastonitsexterior, andwhichhasawoodenframe false-frontarchitecture.

Jackson Hole got its first post office in 1892, and mail was brought over Teton Pass in winter by skiing mail carriers. Today there are seven post offices in the valley (the Wilson Post Office is shown here) and, while the mail is no longer carried on skis, there are still challenges.

Breckenridge, and Aspen, Colorado, also do not have home delivery of mail, largely because when mail was first established in these communities in the late 1800s, there wasn’t rural home delivery of mail. Today’s system is simply a holdover from settlement days.

So, with limited home delivery of mail in this northwest corner of Wyoming, most residents must register at one of the area’s seven post offices for a post office box. “It’s a big part of everybody’s everyday lives. And in a rural community

like Jackson, you have to rely on the post office,” says former town councilor Jim Stanford. Legendary fishing guide and newspaperman Paul Brunn said the post office was the best place to gossip in the 1950s and 60s—followed only by the beauty shop and the bar. Bruun moved to the valley in 1955, when, he says, “there weren’t many people around.” He says that back then people liked the camaraderie that the post office facilitated. “It was a good gathering spot, especially when faced with long winters,” he says.

POVIBES

TETONVILLAGE

3230MCCOLLISTERDR. ZIPCODE: 83025

DOWNTOWNPOVIBESJACKSON

220WESTPEARLAVENUE

ZIPCODE:83001

Builtin1973,thisisknownlocallyasthe POBs“old”postoffice.Ithasover5,000 lockers.andseveralhundredpackage Localsinger-songwriterclaustrophobic,PatChadwickdescribesitasespeciallysincetheadditionofthepackagelockers.

When homesteaders began arriving in the 1880s, mail to Jackson Hole first made its way to Saint Anthony, Idaho, 80 miles away, on the Oregon Short Line, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad. From there, it went to Victor, Idaho, where a volunteer picked it up and brought it to Jackson Hole via an arduous and dangerous two-day trek over Teton Pass by wagon, sled, or skis.

JacksonThispostofficenearthebaseareaofthe HoleMountainResortservesacommunityofabout500residentsandhundredsof thousandsofvisitorseachyear.WhileJHMR hasbeengettingmoreandmoreglamorous overthepastdecade,thispostoffice remainsamodestone-storybuilding withawood-panelinterior.

According to History Jackson Hole (formerly the Jackson Hole Historical Society), one volunteer went missing along the way, and his body wasn’t found until spring. He wasn’t the only one. Records from the Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center show that in 1913, mail carrier Clarence Curtis died when he was caught in an avalanche and swept into Coal Creek on the west side of Teton Pass. Just one year later, another mail carrier, Franke Parsons, met the same fate when he was hit by an avalanche at Windy Hollow on the Victor side of the pass while he was carrying the mail.

Before the first post office in Jackson was approved in 1892, the residents of the Flat Creek area had to deliver their own mail, on time, for a year to prove that it could be done. The United States Postal Service also wanted to ensure that there were enough people living in the area to make the route worth it. Though the USPS started rural free delivery, which brought mail directly to peoples' homes, in 1893, this service never made its way to Jackson.

Joe Boxrud, public information officer with the USPS, says that a post office coming to a community often led to

Teton Village postmaster Kenyon Walker has been working at that PO since 1989 and today greets boxholders by name, handing out smiles and candy at the counter.

When Jackson's downtown post office moved to the intersection of Pearl Avenue and Millward Street in 1973 (from the Town Square), Pearl Avenue wasn't yet paved.

RYAN DORGAN

POVIBES

JACKSON,MAPLEWAY 1070MAPLEWAY ZIPCODE:83002

Openedin1995inWestJackson,this postofficeisnolongernew,butlocals stillcallitthe“new”postoffice.(Itis20plusyearsyoungerthanthedowntown postoffice.)Itisthelargestpostoffice inthevalleywithmorethan15,000 POBsandisthemainsorting locationforlostmail.

a town’s official designation. “Jackson and many of these small towns, they weren’t even towns until the post office planted a flag there and said, all right, we’re Jackson, Wyoming,” Boxrud says. “Back in the 1800s, that’s how a town was established, when they started establishing mail delivery there.”

Jackson Hole’s first post office was in the two-story Simpson homestead, located in what today is considered downtown Jackson. Some of the earliest postmasters were postmistresses. From 1894 to 1918, Maggie Simpson, Mary Anderson, and Sara McKean subsequently held the top job for Jackson. Elsewhere in the region, the head of the post office—master or mistress—would rotate between neighbors, usually because the “post office” only consisted of a box.

In the early part of the 20th century, the number of post offices grew, along with the valley’s population and tourism industry. At one point, 15 separate communities had their own post offices within Teton County (which was part of Lincoln County until 1921). The post offices in Moose and Jenny Lake were seasonal—established just to keep up with mail from tourists in the summer months.

Icy conditions—and inconvenience—made calls for home delivery frequent. According to a 1974 Jackson Hole News article, the Postal Service held a community poll to determine the desire for home delivery. Just over half of survey respondents gave a thumbs up to home delivery. However, the Postal Service didn’t recognize the results because only 20 percent of the surveys were returned, and the Postal Service required a 75 percent return rate.

The most recent push for home delivery came in 2018, when locals like Patrick Starich appealed to the Jackson Town Council to create a stakeholder group to work with the Postal

Service to find a way to offer home delivery of mail. He came up with a long list of compelling figures to make his case, estimating that Jackson Hole’s 10,000-plus residents travel a total of 1,045,200 miles each year to get their mail, a distance of more than two trips to the moon and back that consumes 42,145 gallons of gasoline and emits 413 tons of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

“I got a holiday card from someone whose PO Box is directly beneath mine—our boxes literally touch. And it went to Salt Lake,” says Rohrbach. Salt Lake City is the closest mailprocessing center, at about 270 miles away. (There are two processing centers in Wyoming, in Casper, 280 miles from Jackson, and Cheyenne, 430 miles from Jackson.)

Today, there are seven post offices in Teton County— two in the town of Jackson and one each in Teton Village, Wilson, Moose, Kelly, and Moran. Jackson’s two branches are the main post offices and see the bulk of the mail. The valley’s mail service faces a confluence of challenges largely centered around staffing shortages, which is an issue facing rural and urban areas alike across the country. In the fall of 2023, Jackson’s downtown post office temporarily closed its retail counter because it didn’t have enough employees. The closure didn’t last more than a few days though because the USPS sent employees from other post offices

Postmaster Sara McKean standing in the doorway of Jackson Hole's first post office, which was also her home. McKean held this post in Jackson from 1904 to 1918. Prior to her, Maggie Simpson and Mary Anderson had the job.

YOU’VE GOT MAIL

Whether you’re in Jackson Hole receiving mail or packages or you’re sending mail or packages to someone in Jackson Hole, here’s how to make sure it gets where it is supposed to:

INDIVIDUAL’S NAME-PO BOX NUMBER 1234 WHATEVER STREET PO BOX # CITY, STATE, ZIP CODE

Putting the PO Box as part of the last name is key. Some of the slower delivery services from carriers like UPS and Fed Ex use USPS for last mile delivery, and sometimes the shippers don’t print the PO Box line on shipping labels. Putting the PO Box number after the last name ensures that, even if the PO Box line is omitted, your box number is still on the package.

KELLY 4486LOWERGROSVENTRERD ZIPCODE:83011 wasFoundedin1914,theoriginalKellyPostOffice oneofthemanybuildingswashedawayby acatastrophicfloodin1927.Today’spostoffice, onthecommunity’smainroad,isametalKellyroofedformershedadjacenttothe Cafe.Theofficeisstaffedjust twohoursaday,fivedaysaweek.

RYAN DORGAN

around the region on temporary assignments—called details—to fill the vacant positions.

Out in Kelly, the post office is open just two hours each weekday—from 2 to 4 p.m.—and not at all on weekends. It is staffed by a postal worker on detail from Centennial, Wyoming—a seven-hour drive away. The Kelly clerk also mans the Moose post office in Grand Teton National Park on weekday mornings. For the past five years, on average only half of the USPS positions in Jackson Hole’s post offices have been filled. The current acting postmaster for the valley’s post offices, Alicia Dickson, is based out of Cheyenne, an eight-hour drive away. Dickson has been on detail to the Jackson office on and off for the past four years.

USPS public information officer Boxrud says Jackson Hole isn’t alone in its staffing woes; it is a common challenge across resort communities in the West. Understaffed branches mean a lot of frustrated customers. It has gotten so bad in some communities that a handful of towns in Colorado including Crested Butte, Silverthorne, Snowmass Village, and Steamboat Springs have even threatened to sue the federal government for poor service. “Whether it be Jackson or places across Colorado, in Vail, Aspen, et cetera, they’re always challenging,” Boxrud says. “The cost of living is very high. It’s very hard on a government salary to afford housing in those places.” What that means for customers through, is “a pain in the ass,” says Stanford.

There is a way to make getting mail a little less of a pain in the ass. Valley resident Mickey Babcock has a PO Box at the Wilson Post Office and also has a “private mailbox” at the

POVIBES

MORAN 1MORANTOWNROAD ZIPCODE:83013

Establishedin1902byMariaAllen,thisPOis nameditafterartistThomasMoranandwas originallyintheElkHornHotelon OxbowBend.TodaythisPOhas 600-someboxesinadouble-wide trailerfrom1973thatwassupposed tobetemporary. H

HPO VIBES

HMOOSE 3 TETON PARK ROAD ZIP CODE: 83012

The Moose Post Office is across the road from GTNP’s main visitor center. It was established in William Grant’s general store in April 1923 to handle tourist letters during the summer months. Today’s Moose Post Office primarily services park employees with its 500-some PO Boxes.

UPS Store on Broadway Avenue. She says a PMB allows her to have all her packages shipped to one place. Compared to PO Boxes, a PMB is expensive, though; a PMB at the UPS Store is $270 for six months, while almost every physical address in the valley gets one PO Box for free. (If you want a larger POB or a roommate has already claimed your residence’s free one, it is $70 for six months.)

While the Postal Service is trying to improve service, declining revenue makes this an uphill battle. The Postal Service’s main revenue stream comes from products and services, not taxpayer dollars. According to a 2021 GSA report, the Postal Service lost $1.3 billion in 2022 and $65 billion over the prior 11 years. This is because overall mail volume is down, despite the growth in online shopping. The proposed changes from the federal agency—which largely aim to consolidate distribution to a few regional hubs—are facing a lot of pushback, including from Wyoming’s congressional delegation for fear that it could slow delivery.

The sole employee of the Kelly branch says most of her job consists of tracking down things that have been either addressed wrong or delivered incorrectly, and also trying to encourage box holders to include their PO Box on everything sent to them so that no matter what shipping company is used, it will get to them (see sidebar). “I actually make a difference in these spaces,” she says. She recently tracked down a package that had carried a print for a memorial service. “I checked all the places that I possibly

could to figure out where it might have gotten to. It was probably a 45-minute process. But I was able to find what they were looking for. I literally jumped over the counter and ran out the door as they were pulling out.” She says the customer got out of the car and gave her “a big old hug.”

When we were talking at the counter, one customer came in and casually retrieved her box key, which she had hidden above the door frame. She says she leaves her key at the post office because “its just one less thing to keep track of.” According to the Kelly postal clerk, there are a lot of “funny things about little tiny offices.”

The Moran branch—the northernmost office in Jackson Hole—often gets hikers on the Continental Divide Trail or long-distance bikers camping in the post office (illegally). Even if counter service is sporadic and diminishing, the actual PO Box area at each of the valley’s post offices is open 24/7 so customers can get their mail whenever they want—and so others might get a warm night’s rest.

The Kelly clerk says her former postmaster in Centennial kept a cot with bedding for six to nine months of the year because she regularly couldn’t get home due to winter weather. “That was her backup. If the roads closed and she couldn’t get home, she’d sleep in the office. She’d literally go to bed next to the mail and wake up and do the same thing the next day.”

Despite the frustration with the post office, it remains a place of connection. And locals have a lot of appreciation for the people who keep it running. “I’m not knocking the people working there. They are barely keeping it together,” Stanford says. Buffalo Valley resident Lois Cashin bakes Christmas cookies for the clerks at the Moran Post Office to show her appreciation. Though she says, “When the snow is heavy, you wish it was delivered to your house.” JH

A Northern saw-whet owl gives a steely stare on a cold winter day along the Snake River near Wilson.

JACKSON HOLE

The Wildlife Biologist Behind the Lens

Mark Gocke’s photographs show the hidden—human—side of wildlife management.

// BY BILLY ARNOLD

The first time I met Mark Gocke was on a cold December day on the National Elk Refuge. He’d invited me, a fledgling environmental reporter, to cover the Wyoming Game & Fish Department’s annual bighorn sheep capture. As biologists flitted around, retrieving sheep from helicopters so they could poke and prod them for blood samples and fat data that would help determine the health of the herd, the snap of Gocke’s shutter followed them as he took pictures not only of the big-eyed, big-horned animals but also of the wildlife managers studying them.

introduced him to a camera. “That opened up a way for me to be creative,” he says. “I can’t draw, I can’t dance. I can’t, you know, play an instrument. But photography was definitely a way that I could exercise that side of the brain.” At the University of Nebraska, Lincoln, Gocke joined the wildlife club, like other kids studying wildlife biology, and won a couple of photography competitions.

BRADLY J. BONER

In a mostly intact ecosystem known for its internationally famous grizzly bears, far-ranging elk and pronghorn, and packs of wolves, Gocke’s most stunning photographs are about the animals and the people working to protect and understand them.

Wildlife biologists are often the face of wildlife management at its most trying moments, like when biologists, hoping to prevent future conflicts, have to kill a grizzly bear that’s repeatedly fed on humans’ trash. “People see that side of it, because it makes news. People care when animals die,” says Gocke, who retired from Wyoming Game & Fish in March 2024. “But that’s why I love these photographs. It’s the positive side of wildlife management, and you wouldn’t find a more dedicated bunch of people.” According to Gocke, people don’t manage wildlife because they love the dirty work. They chase careers with large ungulates and songbirds and fish because they love wildlife, they’re passionate about wild places, and they want to ensure wildlife has a place on this planet.

Gocke first got into photography at his Nebraska high school, when a friend working for the yearbook

But Gocke didn’t set out to be a photographer. He wanted to be a wildlife biologist, and took a job in eastern Wyoming in 1991 conserving habitat on private land. While he loved the job, it wasn’t permanent. So, when a stable opportunity opened to run Wyoming Game & Fish’s Jackson department’s education and outreach efforts, with a side of media relations, Gocke jumped. He moved to Jackson in 1995 and never left. Even though he wasn’t hired as a photographer, he brought his camera into the field, making pictures of bighorn sheep being netted in the Whiskey Basin near Dubois and wolverines poking their heads out of traps. Slowly, he built trust with wildlife biologists who were initially skeptical of his lens.

For 29 years, Gocke served as the photographic eye for wildlife managers in western Wyoming, documenting the human side of wildlife biology and management that most people don’t know about, let alone see. His images of biologists cradling rubythroated hummingbirds, hand-netting pronghorn, and cramming into bear dens—with sedated bears— capture both the action and the reaction; the light behind wildlife biologists’ eyes as they handle creatures they’ve dedicated their lives to protecting. The hidden, human side of wildlife management.

A red fox curls up to stay warm on a cold winter day in Grand Teton National Park.

Along the banks of the Firehole River in Yellowstone National Park, a bobcat sits quietly next to a doe mule deer that had fallen several hundred feet from the top of a vertical cliff just out of view.

A coyote, also called a song dog, lets a out a howl on Antelope Flats in Grand Teton National Park.

JACKSON HOLE

WINTER

Wyoming Game & Fish wildlife disease specialist

Hank Edwards draws blood from a captured bighorn ram with the help of volunteers at the Whiskey Basin Wildlife Habitat Management Area near Dubois.

Wyoming Game & Fish employees Doug Brimeyer and Dave Hyde work to free a bull elk that had become entangled in the fence along Highway 89 at the National Elk Refuge.

JACKSON HOLE

WINTER

Wyoming Game & Fish wolf biologist Ken Mills steadies a pair of gray wolves as they they come out of their tranquilization in the Gros Ventre mountains near Jackson.

Grizzly bear 399 leads her cubs through the snow after feeding on a hunter’s elk gut-pile near the base of Shadow Mountain.

A pair of bull elk spar over alfalfa pellets that had just been laid out on a cold morning at the National Elk Refuge.

A white-tailed jackrabbit hunkers down on a windswept flat near Boulder, Wyoming, on a brutally cold day for photography at -16F. JH

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER

SNOWSCIENCE

// BY BILLY ARNOLD

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

FThe job of an avalanche forecaster isn’t all sunshine and powder— they’re charged with nothing less than keeping the skiing and driving public safe.

rank Carus zips his jacket, snaps his ski boots into his skis, and looks up at Wimpy’s Knob, a lumpy, easterly face in Grand Teton National Park beloved by backcountry skiers—the adventurous powder-hounds that prefer to make their turns far from ski lifts, in terrain they must first climb before descending and where there is no ski patrol to help if things go awry.

But, on this February morning, Carus isn’t here to ski powder, though making a few choice turns will certainly be part of his itinerary. Rather, as the director of the Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center, a U.S. Forest Service operation, he is trying to find the balance between good skiing, safe skiing, and skiing that will tell him something worthwhile about the snow’s stability across the eastern side of the Tetons. He wants to get close enough to avalanche-prone slopes that he can study them, evaluate how they look on the surface, and better understand how they will react if humans cut into the snow that covers them with skis or snowboards, but not so close that he causes an avalanche. The goal is to identify hazards and communicate the risk of skiing in wild snow to the general public.

Carus is one of about a dozen people spread across the valley’s guiding operations, ski resorts, and transportation departments tasked with studying snow to keep people safe when they’re skiing—and driving. Another one is Jessica

Baker, an avalanche forecaster for Exum Mountain Guides and Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s backcountry guide service. “Lives are at stake,” Baker says. “My job as a forecaster is to create the most simple but precise synopsis of what is going on out there for people.”

Avalanches are dangerous. They can move up to 80 miles an hour, and then, once they stop, consolidate into a jumble as dense as concrete. On average, avalanches, colloquially called “slides,” kill about two people every winter in Jackson Hole; nationwide about 27 people die annually in avalanches. Most of these deaths are folks recreating in the backcountry—skiers, snowboarders, and snowmobilers— but drivers on mountain passes, like Teton Pass, are also at risk. Nationally, 13 motorists have died in avalanches since 1951, the year the state-run Colorado Avalanche Information Center started keeping track.

Slides don’t come out of nowhere. Like the most menacing cookie your grandmother ever made, they have a recipe. Their main ingredients are a slope of sufficient steepness (usually at least 30 degrees, which, for reference, is comparable to the angle of a typical set of stairs), a load heavy enough to push it downhill, a trigger, and a surface to slide on. The trigger can be a skier or snowmobiler, or a purposeful detonation of an ex-

WYDOT has two avalanche forecasters/technicians on its staff. They monitor and mitigate avalanche paths on

and in

Teton Pass

the Hoback and Snake River Canyons.

JACKSON HOLE | WINTER 2025

“LIVES ARE AT STAKE. THE MOST BASIC FORM OF THIS IS THAT YOU COULD EITHER LIVE OR DIE IN THE MOUNTAINS THAT DAY.”

—JESSICA BAKER, EXUM MOUNTAIN GUIDES FORECASTER

plosive by ski patrol. Forecasters call the sliding surface a “weak layer.”

Once triggered, an avalanche can send literal tons of snow downhill— more than enough to bury Highway 22 and/or catch and carry a skier, pinwheeling them off trees and other obstacles as they fall. At best, someone caught in a slide is located and dug out. At worst they’re buried under feet of densely packed snow and aren’t located before they asphyxiate and die. (According to the American Avalanche Association, chances of survival are 92 percent for avalanche victims extricated within 15 minutes; chances of survival decrease to 37 percent after 35 minutes of burial. This is assuming they weren’t killed by trauma sustained during the slide.)

Avalanche forecasters are tasked with understanding when and where slides are likely and then sharing this information so that recreationalists can avoid them and so that ski resorts and departments of transportation can perform avalanche-mitigation work, which involves using dynamite and other explosives or blasts of air to cause avalanches before they unexpectedly catch drivers or skiers.

MEET THE FORECASTERS

MIKE RHEAM | JHMR

FORECASTING SINCE: The mid-90s

GETTING STARTED: After graduating from the University of Vermont with a degree in mechanical engineering, Rheam joined the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort ski patrol. As a patroller, he took snow science courses, which led the Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center to hire him in 1997. Now, he’s the avalanche program supervisor for JHMR, a forecaster for BTAC, and the lead forecaster for Tordrillo Mountain Lodge, a heli-skiing operation in Alaska.

WHY? “I was always fascinated by the mechanics of avalanches as well as the difficulty of predicting them. It’s such an inexact science that it’s intriguing to me.”

North Americans—Canadians, specifically—realized the value of avalanche forecasting in the early 1960s. In 1962, Parks Canada established the Snow Research and Avalanche Warning Section to protect a treacherous 24-mile stretch of the Trans-Canada highway over Rogers Pass; this was the first major avalancheforecasting operation in North America. Today in the U.S., 14 state departments of transportation, including the Wyoming Department of Transportation, have avalanche forecasters. Additionally, the U.S. Forest Service operates a network of 14 backcountry avalanche centers to communicate avalanche risk to backcountry users; these are all overseen by the National Avalanche Center. Jackson Hole ski/snowboard guiding services, including Exum and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, have their own teams of forecasters. So do most ski resorts in the western United States. (Ski resorts without their own in-house team collaborate closely with Forest Service forecasters to direct their avalanche mitigation.)

Different forecasters have different end goals: WYDOT forecasters work

DON LAWLESS | WYDOT

FORECASTING SINCE: 2007

GETTING STARTED: A WYDOT engineer who liked to ski, Lawless took advantage of downtime in the winter to help out with the avalanche program starting in 2007. Over a decade-and-a-half, he developed expertise and was hired as the department’s avalanche supervisor in 2022.

WHY? “I do it because it's rewarding work for me. Each day is different and the avalanche program is a really unique part of the WYDOT organization.”

JESSICA BAKER | EXUM

FORECASTING SINCE: 2015

GETTING STARTED: Baker worked with forecasters throughout her career as a ski guide, and got her first forecasting job in Alaska, then with JHMR’s backcountry guides, and finally with Exum Mountain Guides.

WHY? “I love putting all the pieces together, really taking in the full view, and then disseminating the most important info for those working in the field. I also love the process of helping facilitate important conversations each morning, engaging the guides, helping everyone stay sharp for their day in the field.”

Snowpits are one way avalanche forecasters can evaluate snow stability while in the field. The pits, which are several feet deep, expose the different layers in the snow, which forecasters perform tests on to see how easily they might/will slide.

FRANK CARUS | BTAC DIRECTOR

FORECASTING SINCE: 2010

GETTING STARTED: Carus got into forecasting through ski guiding, when he obtained a certification through the American Mountain Guides Association. He was a snow ranger in New Hampshire’s White Mountain National Forest and then a director of the Mount Washington Avalanche Center. He was hired as director of the Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center in 2021.

WHY? “Avalanches are a really fascinating natural phenomenon to me, on par with wildfires.”

“I WAS ALWAYS FASCINATED BY THE MECHANICS OF AVALANCHES AS WELL AS THE DIFFICULTY OF PREDICTING THEM. IT’S SUCH AN INEXACT SCIENCE THAT IT’S INTRIGUING TO ME.”

—JHMR AND BTAC FORECASTER MIKE RHEAM

to allow plow drivers and civilians to cross Teton Pass safely; JHMR forecasters help ski patrollers decide when and where to place bombs for avalanche mitigation; Exum and JHMG forecasters give their guides the information to safely take clients through the mountains; the Bridger-Teton Avalanche Center informs the public about the risks of heading into the mountains. All forecasters are in the information business. They need to learn about hazards and communicate them to plow drivers, ski patrollers, guides, and the public. Guides do this via a spreadsheet that’s discussed in a pre-dawn Zoom call. For JHMR, it’s a list of avalanche paths for patrollers to check. For the BTAC, it’s a bulletin with an avalanche-danger rating, an explanation of the rating, and a discussion of uncertainty. The bulletin publishes online, between 5 and 7 a.m., for four different forecast zones covering 7,000 square miles.

Forecasters like Mike Rheam, who splits his time between forecasting for JHMR’s ski patrollers and the BTAC, have to communicate the science to two very different user groups. “We remind ourselves on the public side that although we have a lot of savvy, well-educated users, we also have travelers who aren’t very familiar with avalanche country,” he says. “The ski area is different—we’re talking trained, professional avalanche mitigators that get this messaging every day, and we are very specific about our weather observations.”

For WYDOT, the messaging is targeted and localized. In the local WYDOT zone, there are 15 slide paths above Teton Pass and about 30 others total above the Hoback River Canyon (U.S. Highway 191/189) and Snake River Canyon (U.S. Highway 89). Don Lawless, WYDOT’s avalanche supervisor, thinks about keeping the public safe, but before that, keeping his plow drivers safe. On mornings when Lawless

About 7,500 motorists daily drive Wyoming Highway 22, which passes beneath 15 known slide paths as it makes its way over Teton Pass. Glory Slide, shown here, is the largest slide path above Highway 22.

and his forecasting team close Teton Pass or either canyon to perform avalanche mitigation work, plow drivers often have to drive below the paths to clear the road for the mitigation crew, which can be dangerous. Since 1951, avalanches have killed 14 highway personnel in the U.S. While no DOT workers have died in the Teton area, a WYDOT driver was buried in his plow in 1988 when Glory Bowl slid.

For the most part, avalancheforecasting programs have been successful. Since 1970, when state DOTs started avalanche programs, only four motorists have died in avalanches in the U.S. Today at ski resorts, avalanches kill fewer than one inbound skier/rider per year on average. While avalanches annually kill an average of 18 backcountry users, forecasters see what they’re doing as a success. In the last 10 years, more and more people have flocked into the backcountry, but avalanche deaths have flatlined if not decreased slightly. Simon Trautman, director of the National Avalanche Center, says about the USFS program: “It’s small, but it has this massive reach, and I think a track record that shows it’s a very big part of fatality rates flattening if not going down in the past decade. It’s not the whole story, but it’s a big part of that story.” (And it’s not that expensive to U.S. tax payers; the federal government spends about $5 million annually on the salaries of about 65 avalanche forecasters.)

In the Tetons, avalanche science started being taken seriously in the early 1970s. Backcountry skiing on Teton Pass was becoming more popular and, as part of a realignment of Highway 22 over Teton Pass, WYDOT built a bridge that spanned the lower reaches of the Glory Bowl slide path, which rises above the north side of the highway near the top of the pass. The idea was that when/if Glory slid, avalanche debris would pass beneath the bridge and not affect motorists or the road. But, in 1970, Glory slid, and instead of the debris passing beneath the bridge, it took the bridge out. The next year, 1971, WYDOT started avalanche forecasting

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for Teton Pass (and had given up on the idea of a bridge).

At the same time, avalanche pros at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (then Jackson Hole Ski Corp.), U.S. Forest Service snow rangers that used militarygrade artillery to blast unstable slopes, realized the work they were doing could benefit people outside of its boundaries. In 1976, after a slew of deaths in the backcountry of the Tetons, snow ranger Gary Poulson recorded the first phone bulletin about local avalanche conditions. People who called the line heard a message about snowfall, snow depths, weather, and, crucially, an avalanchehazard rating.

“WE CAN PROVIDE INFORMATION TO THE VILLAGE AVALANCHE TEAM, THE BRIDGERTETON AVALANCHE TEAM, AND THEN ANOTHER GROUP CHAT THAT HAS ALL FORECASTERS IN THE VALLEY."

—DON LAWLESS, WYDOT’S AVALANCHE SUPERVISOR

Fast forward 50 years, and the number of people who engage with avalanche terrain in Teton County has only grown. About 7,500 cars now commute daily over Teton Pass, and backcountry skiing has exploded in popularity. From the 1930s to the ’70s, Jackson Hole’s backcountry culture was centered around a few oddballs making turns in jeans and wool sweaters on Teton Pass. Now, skiers and snowboarders track over 100,000 ski runs just on Teton Pass every winter. The figures for backcountry runs in Grand Teton National Park and the mountain ranges south of the valley are lower but still exponentially higher than they were even two decades ago.

While avalanche forecasting in the Tetons has grown, the number of forecasters is still small. WYDOT has two full-time forecasters and two seasonal workers. JHMR’s forecasters split time between the ski hill and the BTAC, which hires about six staff each winter. Guide services like Exum also have forecasters of their own.

Forecasters follow both what’s happening on the ground and in the atmosphere to create an evolving picture of the snowpack. They meticulously follow data from weather stations and also venture into the field to ski and dig around in the snow to better understand how weather is impacting the snowpack’s stability, which will differ depending on aspect and elevation.

Mike Rheam, JHMR's avalanche program supervisor, looks at a map overlaid with known slide paths at the ski resort and their potential severity. The avalanche lab uses technology that compiles historical data to help predict when specific avalanche problems could occur.

Being a forecaster means committing to early mornings that start around 4 a.m. “A typical morning when I’m forecasting starts with a cup of coffee for sure,” says Baker. When she gets up that early, a few hours before other Exum guides rise and join her on Zoom for their daily conditions call, Baker combs through weather data from the night before to see how much snow fell and where. She then looks at the weather forecast for the day to try to figure out where destabilizing weight might come from—wind moving snow onto an unstable slope or new snow falling. This all happens at home, in front of a computer. Then, as forecasters venture out into the backcountry or JHMR, they check their hypotheses against what they’re seeing on the ground.

But the science is inexact. Forecasters rely on data from discrete points—a weather station, a pit in the snowpack, or an observation of a naturally triggered avalanche—to estimate how dangerous avalanche conditions are across a larger area. The science of snow stability is also a bit of an art. Forecasters communicate what they can but also rely on backcountry skiers to have some education of their own, so they, like guides and forecasters, can develop hypotheses before they venture into the backcountry and test them.

“Generally speaking, as a more experienced forecaster, you learn how to bring enough range in your communication where people have to think a little bit,” says Baker. “They can’t just be like, ‘Jessica says to ski Glory Bowl’.” Instead, skiers and guides have to think about the forecast and decide what’s best, given the conditions and their risk tolerances.

To hedge against uncertainty, forecasters talk with one another, and with other snow professionals. When

Baker has a question, she calls Rheam. Exum and JHMG guides invite the BTAC forecasters into their morning meetings. WYDOT forecasters, who often patrol Teton Pass at 2 or 3 a.m., give later-rising forecasters a heads up, which is sometimes a summary of what slid and what didn’t. “We can provide information to the [JHMR] avalanche team, the [BTAC] team, and then another group chat that has all forecasters in the valley,” Lawless says. “Whatever information we pick up that we feel is relevant to other people, we send out a photo, a description. That line of communication has definitely gotten better over the years.” Forecasters, who themselves can only visit a few zones in the backcountry a week, have also started asking the public to share what they see. BTAC has an easy way for everyday backcountry users to submit their observations—snowpits they’ve dug, pictures of natural avalanches, reports of near misses, and general observations about the snowpack. “If you’re looking at 50 to 60 observations in that same time period over many different drainages, your confidence is quite high on the information you’re delivering,” Rheam says.

But even though forecasters and skiers share data, a big part of forecasting is still getting out into the mountains. That’s what brought Carus to Wimpy’s Knob, the popular backcountry peak in GTNP, last February. He spent the better part of a day studying, and skiing, it. He dug into the snow, used binoculars to scour neighboring peaks for signs of avalanche activity, and skied close to avalanche-prone slopes, but not so close that he’d get caught in an avalanche himself. It’s a delicate balance to keep the public informed and safe. JH

EXPLORE

WILD AND MILD ADVENTURES

Wild Ice

The season is short, but so, so sweet.

Igrew up across from a lake, just outside of Chicago. The lake was murky and mostly useless, except in winter. Publicly maintained as an ice rink, it’s where I learned to ice skate, to play hockey. But there was another lake, this one at the back of a dead-end road. That lake was special; it’s where I learned to wild ice skate. It was hidden in the woods with no Zamboni, no plow, no rescue. I would glide across a lake all to myself while the ice moaned like a whale. Without the constraints of friction, each push effortless, like flying horizontally.

Now in Jackson Hole, I still skate on lakes hidden in the woods. Here it’s a game of getting to the ice before a big snow. Back in Chicago, sometimes winters aren’t even cold enough for wild ice

to happen. Here, I’ve skated as early as October 13 (up high in Grand Teton National Park) and skated snow-free wild ice as late as January 5. Although every wild ice season is different.

There are a couple of ways to approach wild ice: 1) Scout for clear and freshly frozen lakes, and 2) wait until other skaters confirm a lake is frozen. For either, always act as if the ice isn’t safe until you perform stability tests (see sidebar). The ideal condition—the wild ice equivalent of powder snow—is glass ice, where you can see straight through the ice into an abyss of frozen bubbles or even see fish swimming underneath. The top

// PHOTOS & STORY BY JOEY SACKETT

A skater explores Lower Slide Lake northeast of Jackson. The lake was formed by a landslide in 1925, the tree stumps are all that remains of the forest that was here before the landslide.

Wild ice: You never know what you’re going to get, and that’s part of the beauty of it. There’s also the fact that you’re gliding on your own private lake in the mountains.

A team of wild ice hunters dance across the glass ice of Willow Lake.

layer is so smooth and hard, your skates leave behind little Parmesan cheeselike shavings. That’s the good stuff. Glass ice is formed during a cold, dry spell; a small lake usually needs about one week of below-freezing temperatures and no new snow for this.

Of course, the ice doesn’t have to be perfect, and it probably won’t be. Ice is always changing—as the ice sheets shift and water seeps on top, as wind transports snow, as the top layer melts from

the sun and refreezes, as it softens with warmer temperatures, as air bubbles freeze underneath the surface. I’ve skated on strong ice next to open water. My skate has broken through weak ice formed by an underwater spring. I’ve skated on glass ice right next to snowcovered cream cheese. You never know what you’re going to get, and that’s part of the beauty of it. There’s also the fact that you’re gliding on your own private lake in the mountains.

WILD ICE SAFETY

Skating on wild ice is more gear intensive than skating at a maintained ice rink. In addition to ice skates, here’s what you should have with you:

1. A PFD: Wear a life jacket over your layers if you are unsure about the ice, while performing a stability test, or when skating by yourself.

2. Throw rope: Throw ropes are most often used for river safety but also work great on ice. Carry one with you. They come in small bags that you wear around your waist like a fanny pack. If someone breaks through, throw the rope to them and pull them out without putting yourself in danger.

3. Ice-skate rescue picks: Wear these around your neck or attach them to your PFD. If you break through the ice, the idea is that you can stab the ice with these picks to pull yourself out of the water.

4. Ice screw or hatchet: To create a hole through which you can measure the thickness of the ice, drill the ice screw or chip into the ice with a hatchet until you hit water.

5. Ice-measuring device: Once you have a hole to the water, you want a ruler, tape measure, or hockey stick on which you’ve marked inches, to measure the ice’s thickness.

6. Towels, extra-warm clothing, and warm beverages: In case someone falls in, you’ll want these things waiting for you on the shore.

Of course, none of this gear does any good if you don’t know how to use it. YouTube is always a great resource, or check wild ice queen (and a friend) Laura Kottlowski on TikTok (@laura.kottlowski). Her vids are both fascinating and informative.

Always test the safety of the ice before stepping onto it, and a rock stability test is the easiest way to do this. It is as simple as it sounds: Find a dense rock—baseball size is sufficient, five pounds is better, and a 10-pound rock will erase all doubts. Rock in hand, toss it as high up as you can and out and over the ice area in question. If it supports the blow, grab it, and keep testing other spots to clear out a safe area. Ice is never the same thickness across a lake, so if you plan to explore the entirety of the lake, bring the rock with you. My close calls on wild ice are always from when I get too excited and skate into a zone that I have not checked. It’s not a bad idea to bring a rock with you, but most lakes have rocks somewhere nearby. A hockey stick can also be a good stability tester by smacking the ice far away from you. As you whack the ice, you might even begin to notice the differences from the highpitch sound of strong, stable ice and lower-pitch of thin ice.

RELAX & RENEW Soak in our hot springs relaxing in the mineral pools in a serene setting on the Snake River.

EXPLORE

WILD

FIND WILD ICE

Lower Slide Lake, in the Bridger-Teton National Forest and about a 20-minute drive up the Gros Ventre Road from the community of Kelly, is a big lake (650 acres), so it takes longer to freeze over. But it’s worth the wait because you can drive right to it—no hiking/snowshoeing/skiing required. Park and access the lake from the BTNF Lower Slide Lake Campground.

A roughly two-mile hike, ski, or snowshoe up about 1,000 feet from the Phillips Pass trailhead on Teton Pass, Ski Lake is small and high (8,650 feet in elevation), so it freezes earlier than other local lakes. The effort required to get there is worth it for the alpine views; the lake is tucked into a cozy cirque, and the trek isn’t nearly as long as for other lakes; it’s actually considered fairly easily accessible wild ice.

WHEN YOU CAN’T FIND WILD ICE

If wild glass ice is like skiing powder, Jackson Hole Rodeo Grounds in downtown Jackson off Snow King Avenue is like skiing a groomer, and it has guaranteed ice-skating all winter. Although quite different from wild ice, it is still a unique experience—Snow King Mountain, home of Wyoming’s first ski area (it opened in 1939), looms high above, and the rink itself sits on the same stadium floor that, between Memorial and Labor Days, hosts the Jackson Hole Rodeo, so you’re skating beneath the rodeo’s empty stadium seats.

Ski Lake in the Bridger-Teton National Forest is about a two-mile hike (or ski or snowshoe after it has snowed) from the Phillips Pass trailhead on Teton Pass.

The newer the ice, the glassier it should be. But you don’t want ice to be so new that it’s not yet at least two inches thick (for one skater). According to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers’ Ice Thickness and Strength for Various Loading Conditions table, twoinch thick ice can support a single person on skates; three-inch thick ice can support a group of people walking/skating in single file. For a competitive pond hockey game, you’ll want ice that’s at least four inches thick.

If a lake is buried in snow, it doesn’t mean that the wild ice season is over, it just means you should check out a different lake. Small lakes and higher-elevation lakes, like Ski Lake (see sidebar) freeze first, but also get snowed on first. The bigger lakes take longer to freeze, and snow can’t stack on a lake that hasn’t frozen yet. The variables are endless, and there is definitely guessing involved. Good wild ice is temporary, and timing is everything, which makes it all the more special. And when the season ends, often abruptly from one big storm, you can turn to the four maintained outdoor rinks in the valley. Or just go skiing. JH

A self portrait of the author's skates on a type of wild ice he calls “hoar frost ice.” It forms on cold and clear nights when water vapor freezes to the ice.

EXPLORE

NewOld

The

Jackson Hole History Museum has moved to a new home where you

can

see 11,000 years of human history in this valley.

// BY SAMANTHA SIMMA

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN BURK

Natural light streams through the windows of the Jackson Hole History Museum’s main gallery, illuminating artifacts from the past that inform Jackson Hole’s present. Composing chapters of the area’s history are artifacts, videos, and informational panels about the land and geography, community development, conserving and recreating on the land, and contemporary Jackson Hole. These four themes are categorized by interpretive panels, with red panels marking a progressive timeline from 10,000 years ago to the early 2000s.

At 13,000 square feet, the new—it opened this past June—Jackson Hole History Museum campus is nearly double the size of its previous location at 225 N. Cache. “The new campus is purpose-designed and built to beautifully, creatively, and pragmatically accommodate a variety of history-related programs and services while fitting into the surrounding historical downtown architectural context,” says Kirsten Corbett, exhibits and communications director for History Jackson Hole, the nonprofit behind the museum. Planning for the project began in 2019, and the land was purchased in 2020. “For the first time in our 66-year history, we own the building and the land where we operate,” Corbett says. “The new campus is multifaceted, welcoming, and provides room for History Jackson Hole to continue to grow and expand our impact in the community.”

History Jackson Hole has long been at the forefront of collecting, preserving, and sharing the stories of the valley and its early settlers. Established in 1958, it has grown from a

The new Jackson Hole History Museum opened last summer in downtown Jackson.

EXPLORE

MUSEUM ATTRACTIONS

The Main Gallery explores the various eras of Jackson Hole history via text, artifacts like a Hoback rifle encrusted with river stone from the mid-1800s, video clips of History Jackson Hole’s ABCs of Jackson Hole video series, and interactive kiosks. Text interpretations were compiled from the contributions of 21 community historians, organizations, and authors including Paul Bruun—a local angler, columnist, and Patagonia fly-fishing ambassador—and Robert W. Righter, author of seven books on national park subjects and editor of The Grand Teton Reader, who co-authored the museum’s interpretative panels related to Grand Teton National Park.

Two walls of the main gallery are dedicated to displaying collections of historical photos and artifacts. The 12-foot by 50-foot wall includes large-format photos pulled from History Jackson Hole’s collection of more than 19,600 local photographs. The artifacts wall includes about 60 pieces from the museum’s collection of more than 7,200 artifacts and items on display range from early skis to homesteading tools. “To curate the wall, we selected objects that tell important parts of Jackson Hole history that are unique to our collection,” Corbett says. One artifact that draws a lot of attention is a pair of tall wooden skis owned by Lou Joy, circa 1920. The sheer size of the skis shows how much skiing and ski technology has changed in the last century. Kiosks in this area of the museum enable further exploration of the photos and artifacts on display. Select a photo or artifact you’d like to learn more about from the kiosk’s menu, and detailed informa-

small collection of artifacts and documents into a comprehensive repository of Jackson Hole’s cultural and historical legacy. Today, the organization possesses nearly 50,000 pieces, which include historical objects, documents, photographs, oral history, recordings, and videos that provide insight into the lives of the Native American and white peoples who settled and shaped the Jackson Hole region. “A lot of the interpretative text has been co-written by local historians, researchers, and writers, which helps us tell the inclusive history of Jackson Hole through the folks who know it best,” says Morgan Jaouen, executive director of History Jackson Hole.

“Locals looking to connect with other community members and our shared history and interests as well as visitors interested in orienting themselves to this special place by learning about the people, places, and things that have defined Jackson Hole over time will find the museum of interest,” Corbett says.

tion about its history comes up, as well as additional photos and videos that provide more detailed context.

Browse a carefully curated selection of books and gifts with a nod to Western and Jackson Hole history at the Jackson Hole History Museum Store—from postcards featuring historic imagery to spoons crafted from naturally shed animal horns. All of the store’s sales support the nonprofit History Jackson Hole, and the store manager collaborates with staff and fields community suggestions when curating items for the store. For those looking for a unique Jackson Hole souvenir, the store sells cards and stationery by local and regional artists, books by local authors with a historical focus or point of view, and an annual holiday ornament based on a photograph selected from the museum’s collection.

The Rogues' Gallery is a collection of portraiture by Roy Kerswill featuring the personalities of Jackson Hole.

The museum’s Cissy Patterson Gallery features changing exhibits. Eleanor “Cissy” Patterson, a Chicago newspaper heiress and social celebrity, owned a ranch in Jackson Hole in the early 1900s and is the namesake of the Cissy Patterson Foundation, which is a benefactor of History Jackson Hole. The eponymous gallery highlights community-curated and regional exhibits like Elemental Landscapes: A Celebration of Indigenous Art (on display through January 2025). Shows in this gallery usually change every three to six months. Be on the lookout for museum programming paired with current exhibits that offer deeper insights and interactive opportunities. Yet to be titled, the exhibit following Elemental Landscapes will feature female Western artists from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

“We’re really excited about the two historic log cabins that are a part of the new museum campus,” says History Jackson Hole executive director Morgan Jaouen. These are the Shane saddle and tack cabin and the Karns cabin. “Our organization has had these buildings for decades now, and this is the first time that they’ll be part of the visitor experience when you come to the museum.”

The Shane cabin was one of several structures built in the early 1950s in the community of Kelly for the set of Shane, a classic Western filmed in Jackson Hole. (Go inside the cabin to see clips from Shane and other movies filmed in Jackson Hole.) The Karns cabin was built in 1898 and is the only surviving structure from the Karns homestead. Look inside, and you’ll see early farming and homesteading equipment.

Overlooking the Van Vleck Block greenspace and Broadway Avenue, the Jackson Hole History Museum’s rooftop deck is summer event space that accommodates up to 128 people standing or sitting lecture style. During the summer months, this is where History Jackson Hole hosts its Beers & Banter series, in which it collaborates with community members to present a themed history hour. JH

The main gallery area of the Jackson Hole History Museum includes artifacts that chart the human history of the region.

YELLOWSTONE

Pushing open a hatch in the roof of the Sprinter van that has brought my 16-year-old niece Sofia and myself into Yellowstone National Park, I stand up on one of the back seats and look down on two bison languidly grazing alongside the van. Because their tails are hanging down, I can tell they’re unbothered by the vehicle’s presence or by me peeking out of its roof. (If you ever see a bison with its tail standing straight up, beware! That’s a sign it feels threatened or aggressive and it might charge.)

So close to two of the shaggy one-ton beasts, I can smell them. (They smell like mushrooms.) I try to take photos, but these bison are so close my photos might as well be of a fuzzy carpet. Sofia draws my attention to a larger group of bison about 50 feet away. “They seem like a better distance for photos,” she says. And they are, but every single one of them— I count 12—is grazing with its butt to me and my camera. I hold my camera at the ready, though, praying and primed for just one to turn around so that I might capture the memory of this experience for perpetuity.

The author and her niece, Sofia Gonzalez-Gulick, watch a herd of bison graze from the roof hatch of the Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools’ over-snow vehicle in Yellowstone National Park.

Winter Wonderland

Winter in Yellowstone means a lot of snow and few crowds.

// BY DINA MISHEV

// PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATHRYN ZIESIG

It takes about five minutes until one does eventually turn around. And then, finally face to face-ish with a bison, I forget about photos. With my camera zoomed in, its liquid, prehistoric eyes reflect the magic of this day and place and remind me to be in the present rather than taking pictures of the present. Experiencing the world’s first national park, home to more than 10,000 thermal features, including 60

percent of the world’s geysers, in winter is something very few people have the privilege of doing.

In 2023, more than 4.5 million people visited Yellowstone, making it the second busiest year on record. More than half of these visitors came between June and August, though. Only about 3 percent—150,000 people— came during the park’s 14(ish)-week winter season between mid-December and mid-March. During this time, all but the 54 miles of road between Gardiner (the park’s northern entrance) and the northeast entrance are closed to cars. The other 139 miles of the park’s roads are groomed for guided snowmobiles and over-snow vehicles like the Sprinter van outfitted with Mattracks instead of tires that Sofia and I are in with Kevin Taylor, a lead guide with Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools. At the time I pop my head out of our van’s roof hatch, our van has passed only two other vehicles and a couple of groups of guided snowmobiles.

“Yellowstone is a special place any time of the year,” Taylor says. “What I enjoy most about it in the winter is the solitude and sense of intimacy. You can find solitude and intimacy in summer, but you have to work harder for it. In winter, even being road-based, you’ll feel these.” Winter in Yellowstone also feels wilder.

For many visitors to Yellowstone, the ultimate symbol of the park’s wildness is its wolves. Shortly after Yellowstone’s designation as a national park in 1872, the federal government, prodded by ranchers and farmers recently settled outside the park’s boundaries, took the view that wolves were varmints. Their habit of killing prey like elk and deer, both considered “more desirable” species than wolves, and also of sometimes going after livestock, was deemed “wanton destruction” of those animals.

Old Faithful Geyser is neither the tallest nor the most predictable geyser in Yellowstone, but it is the tallest predictable geyser. It erupts on an average interval of 90 minutes, shooting hot water up to 184 feet into the air.

Experiencing the world’s first national park, home to more than 10,000 thermal features, including 60 percent of the world’s geysers, in winter is something very few people have the privilege of doing.

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, canis lupis were poisoned and hunted, even within Yellowstone. By the 1920s, wolves had been killed off inside the park. After decades of planning, over two winters in the mid-1990s, 31 wolves captured in Canada were reintroduced into Yellowstone. This reintroduction, although controversial (wolves don’t know about park boundaries and do prey on the livestock of ranches outside of the park), was successful. There are now between 90 and 130 wolves, in about 10 packs, that live mostly within the park’s boundaries. (An estimated 500 wolves live in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, a 20-ish-million-acre area that includes the park itself along with parts of six national forests, the Wind River Indian Reservation, federal and state wildlife refuges, and private lands. All the wolves in the GYE are descendants of the 31 that were reintroduced almost 30 years ago.) Today, Yellowstone is one of the premiere places in the world to spot wolves in the wild.

I have seen wolves in Yellowstone before, and I want to see them again. Sofia has never seen a wolf in the wild.

But, from the start, Taylor warns us that seeing a wolf on our day trip is unlikely. “I’ve seen wolves on several trips, but it is not common,” he says. “More often in the southern part of the park we see wolf tracks,” Taylor says. “They like traveling on the groomed roads.” (If seeing a wolf in the wild is your highest priority, head to the Lamar Valley, in the park’s north. Because most of Yellowstone’s roads are closed to cars in winter, the Lamar Valley is not accessible as a driving day trip from Jackson Hole, though. The Four Seasons Jackson Hole offers a day trip to the Lamar Valley from Jackson Hole via private plane; this trip starts at $16,750.)

We end up seeing neither wolves nor their tracks, but this doesn’t bum me out. It instead reinforces how vast and wild Yellowstone is. Over our eight hours in the park, we drive almost 100 miles in the snowcoach and walk about two miles on packed trails on boardwalks. It feels like we covered a lot of ground, but evidently not, since we don’t see so much as a single sign from a single one of the 100-plus wolves that call Yellowstone home.

While we don’t see wolves, we do catch an eruption of Beehive Geyser, which is almost as elusive. Close to Old Faithful in the Upper Geyser Basin, Beehive erupts at irregular intervals and usually only once or twice a day, shooting water up to 200 feet into the sky, making it higher than Old Faithful. We watch the eruption from a footbridge over the Firehole River, into which the hundreds of gallons of hot, mineral-rich water expelled during Beehive’s eruption flow. Walking along the river back to Old Faithful, ribbons of thermal runoff into it create kaleidoscopic terraces that add color—golds, oranges, and grays—to the otherwise white landscape. (The average annual snowfall at the Old Faithful area of Yellowstone is more than 16 feet.)

In the Upper Geyser Basin, we also catch an eruption of Old Faithful, which is neither the tallest nor the most predictable geyser in the park, but is the tallest predictable geyser. It spews superheated water up to 180 feet into the air for between 90 seconds and five minutes at intervals ranging from 60 to 110 minutes. I enjoy watching it

Standing in front of Sapphire Pool in the park's Biscuit Basin area, Teton Science Schools Wildlife Expeditions guide Kevin Taylor explains the 200-degree thermal feature's plumbing.

Yellowstone is a special place any time of the year. What I enjoy most about it in the winter is the solitude and sense of intimacy. You can find solitude and intimacy in summer, but you have to work harder for it. In winter, even being road-based, you’ll feel these.”

—KEVIN TAYLOR, LEAD GUIDE, WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS AT TETON SCIENCE SCHOOLS

The boardwalks around Old Faithful Geyser are covered with snow in the winter, but the snow is packed, making it possible to explore them wearing only winter boots (instead of snowshoes or Nordic skis). The farther you get from Old Faithful, though, the less packed the snow is.

with only a handful of other people as much as I enjoy watching the eruption itself. In summer, about 2,000 people catch every daytime eruption of Old Faithful. Our eruption has about 20 other spectators.

Between the eruptions of Beehive and Old Faithful, we wander the singletrack paths packed into the snow on top of the boardwalks that wind through the Upper Geyser Basin, which is home to the highest concentration of geysers on the planet. We could walk to Biscuit Basin, the northern-most part of the Upper Geyser Basin, but in winter, the two miles would be very long without skis or snowshoes because the farther you get from Old Faithful, the less packed the snow-covered trails are.

In the van, we’re at Biscuit Basin in less than five minutes, which is just enough time for Taylor to give us an intro to the area. “I want people to see a lot of interesting things, and to learn even more,” he says. (Two of my favorite Taylor facts? 1) The North American Tectonic Plate, on which Yellowstone along with all of North America sits, is moving west-southwest at a rate of about one inch per year— about the same rate that human fingernails grow—but the magma chamber beneath the plate that gives Yellowstone all of its thermal features isn’t moving;

2) In winter, the feet of grouse, bowling ball-sized, ground-dwelling game birds, grow scales that work similarly to snowshoes, keeping the birds from sinking into the deep snowpack.)

At Biscuit Basin, few of the biscuitshaped mounds of silicious geyserite that gave this area its name still exist. The 1959 magnitude-7.3 Hebgen Lake Earthquake changed the plumbing of many of Yellowstone’s thermal features, including Sapphire Pool, the hot spring pool that created the biscuit mounds. Although the biscuits look more like scones today, the 200-degree Sapphire Pool is as startlingly blue and clear as it ever has been. I take a few photos of it and, before I can get frustrated that my camera isn’t getting the pool’s 1,000-some shades of blue, take a deep breath—am I imagining I smell mushrooms?—and focus on enjoying the privilege of being in Yellowstone in winter instead of the impossibility of capturing its fantastical wonders with a camera.

This winter season, Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools offers day tours of Yellowstone between Dec. 15 and Mar. 13. Tours are 12 hours long and start and end in Jackson. From $635/person; tetonscience.org/wildlife-expeditions

RESPECT WILDLIFE

Although I am within a couple of feet of bison in this story, I was in a van and the bison walked up to it. Without the protection afforded by a vehicle, you want to keep a distance of 25 yards from all wildlife and 100 yards from predators like wolves and bears. (Not sure what 25 or 100 yards look like? 1 yard equals one adult stride.)

These distances are just guidelines though. A better rule is that if an animal is reacting to your presence, you’re too close. Surviving a Wyoming winter isn’t easy for wildlife, and we don’t want to be the cause of any additional stress on them. If you are in a vehicle and an animal approaches it, close the windows and stop until the animal passes or drive very slowly until clear of the animal.

Finally, never, ever feed wildlife. This hurts animals in several ways:

1. Human food is bad for the teeth and digestive systems of many species;

2. animals dependent upon handouts can lose their ability to find their own natural food and then die when winter comes and no one feeds them;

3. feeding animals can make them lose their fear of humans, which can make them easy targets for hunters; and

4. fed animals will start associating humans with food and coming into populated areas. With some species, like squirrels, this is merely a nuisance; with other species, like bears and mountain lions, this can be dangerous, and, to prevent humans from being hurt, wildlife managers either relocate or kill these animals. There is truth to the saying, “A fed bear is a dead bear.” Help keep wildlife wild. JH

Keep the adventure going with the best après in Teton Village.

After a day on the hill, meet up at Tram Dock to continue your Jackson Hole adventure. Walk through the doors of one of the original tram cars into the best après scene in Teton Village. Located at the base of the Aerial Tram in the heart of Teton Village, Tram Dock not only serves a great menu of food and drinks but a connection to Jackson Hole’s culture both past and present. Tram Dock offers outdoor seating on a comfortable patio, music and drinks at the four-sided bar and a menu fit to satisfy every appetite.

SCAN CODE FOR MENU AND HOURS

DORNANS WINE DINNER

Supper Club

“Usually, I build the menus on food that I like and I want to eat,” says chef Sean Dietz about the themed multicourse dinners he curates and executes at Dornans in Moose in the winter. At a five-course wine dinner at Dornans last January, Dietz wanted to eat—and so the approximately 40 diners got to eat—oxtail stew, lobster cacio e pepe, and lamb shank. Dietz himself was most excited for the oxtail stew, but I loved the lamb shank, which was the last course before dessert (maritozzi, which I had never before had outside of

Rome and is one of my favorite Roman pastries, and not only because its name loosely translates to “fat husband”).

I loved the lamb shank so much that when a waitress came to clear it from our table, which was equally divided between people I knew and people I didn’t know but had seen around town for years, I didn’t think twice about asking two of my table mates who barely touched theirs—it was the fourth course—and weren’t interested in taking it home themselves if I could. (My husband was mildly appalled, but I en-

joyed lamb shank for dinner for almost a week.) “Our regular menu is usually very set,” Dietz says. “These special dinners give me a chance to be creative and to change things up, which makes my job interesting.” Half of the year, Dornans is so busy there aren’t any desserts on the menu. “We just don’t have the time,” Dietz says.

Dornans Wine Shop opened in 1976, and the wine dinners started in 1982. “I think we always looked at the wine dinners as ways to introduce people to wines and regions that they wouldn’t

Dinner at Dornans, just outside of Grand Teton National Park, is always special, but some winter dinners are more special than others.

// BY LILA EDYTHE // PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEREK STAL

I inherited a line, ‘In our wine shop, we have a wine for everyone,’ and I feel strongly about that.”

—JENNIFER DIETZ, DORNANS WINE BUYER "

necessarily buy on their own,” says Jennifer Dietz, the shop’s wine buyer (and Chef Dietz’s wife). With more than 1,500 bottles from approximately 19 different countries and 600 different producers, Dornans has a selection of wines that ranges as widely in price as it does in obscurity. “I like to have wines that

I know are popular, but I also like to have wines that, if people are willing to take a chance, might surprise them in a good way,” Ms. Dietz says. (Dornans Wine Shop is well-known by oenophiles across the country for the depth and diversity of its bottles; Wine Enthusiast has recognized it as one of the best wine shops in the Rocky Mountain West.)

Starting last winter, Mr. Dietz was given additional opportunities to stretch his creativity: in addition to fivecourse wine dinners, there were several “supper club” dinners. Supper clubs are back this winter and are more casual

Some of the monthly winter dinners combine groups at large tables; others have tables for individual parties.

The Dornans Wine Shop stocks more than 1,500 bottles from 19 countries.

than the reservations-required wine dinners. Supper clubs are three courses instead of five and are more like Dornans’ usual dinner scene—you walk in and grab a table. And supper clubs, although each course comes with a wine pairing, are not 100 percent wine-centric. “We do specialty cocktails that pair with the cuisine,” Ms. Dietz says.

It wasn’t planned that the supper clubs feature international cuisine, but they did last winter, and Ms. Dietz says that will likely stay the same this winter. “As a community, Jackson Hole is very well-traveled,” she says. “And we don’t have restaurants where people can go and get something that they might have had when they were in Morocco or

South Korea.” Last winter’s three supper clubs featured menus inspired by three countries: Morocco, India, and South Korea. “These menus were fun for me because they’re not necessarily cuisine you’d pair with wine,” Ms. Dietz says.

Even though the supper clubs are distinctly different from the wine dinners, Ms. Dietz approaches the wine pairings similarly—a mix of known wines and regions with lesser-known ones. At last winter’s Moroccan supper club, Ms. Dietz paired a Chateau d’Etroyes white burgundy with baked cod, potatoes, and olives. “That seems like a classic pairing,” she says. At the Korean supper club, she paired pa muchim (scallion salad) with a Grüner

The menu is different at each of Dornans' one-off winter dinners, and some have themes.

With great quality at a great price, make your kitchen a space you enjoy cooking and living in each day

Veltliner. “This is classic in the sense that grüner often pairs well with green veggies that are hard to pair with other wines,” Ms. Dietz says. “But I wouldn’t think Austrian wine with Korean food initially.”

Ms. Dietz’s thinking on what she paired the lamb shank with at the wine dinner I attended was spot on: 2016 Johann Michel Cornas. This smokey, voluptuous Rhone-style red blend so perfectly paired with the lamb that, after dinner, I wandered into the Wine Shop and bought two bottles to enjoy with my leftovers at home.

At the time this issue went to press, Dornans hadn’t yet set the schedule for this winter’s multicourse dinners. Go to dornans.com for this winter’s dates. Its restaurant is open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 8 p.m., and you can always buy a bottle in the wine shop, which is adjacent to the restaurant, and drink it with your meal in the restaurant. On non-specialty-dinner nights, Dornans’ menu features pizzas and pastas. JH

• Accessories and Organizers

in home consultation, call for an appointment!  Financing options are available  Services: • Quartz & Granite Countertops • New Cabinets, painted or re-faced cabinets doors.

The winter dinners allow Dornans chef Sean Dietz opportunities to experiment beyond the restaurant's usual menu.

JACKSON HOLE

y Check out the new climbing gym at the Teton Rec Center (p. 32).

y See pieces by women wildlife artists at the National Museum of Wildlife Art (p. 78).

y Order the sesame chicken at Chinatown (p. 76).

y Grab a beer at the Silver Dollar Bar (p. 58).

y Enjoy a Vanilla & Lime bonbon at Atelier Ortega (p. 72).

y Go ice-skating at the Rodeo Grounds Ice Rink (p. 142).

y Explore the new JH History Museum (p. 146).

y Spend time outside skiing to help combat the winter blues (p. 94).

y Check out the historic Alpenhof Lodge (p. 84).

JACKSON

TETON VILLAGE

y Have a classic omelet from Mangy Moose Café for breakfast (p. 66).

y Get a copy of the new book The Arc of Skiing Jackson Hole—45 Years Behind the Lens (p. 31).

y Eat a waffle in Corbet’s Cabin (p. 44).

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

y Nordic or cross-country ski to Whitegrass Ranch (p. 54).

y Get an après-ski drink and snack at Dornans in Moose (p. 156).

y Look for moose (p. 108).

WILSON

y Order huevos rancheros at Nora’s Fish Creek Inn (p. 66).

y Go wild-ice-skating on Ski Lake (p. 142).

y Try Nordic skiing at Trail Creek Ranch (p. 54).

FARTHER AFIELD

y Do a snowcoach day trip into Yellowstone (p. 150).

y See Old Faithful erupt (p. 150).

CALENDAR

RENDEZVOUS MUSIC FESTIVAL

Immerse yourself in a two-day music festival set against iconic backdrops— the historic Town Square in downtown Jackson and the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.

APRIL

Events below are based on information as of mid November 2024.

ONGOING

JACKSON HOLE MOOSE HOCKEY

Home games (at Snow King Arena) start at 7:30 Friday and Saturday nights. Moose. pucksystems2.com

SLEIGH RIDES

Between December 14 and April 5, sleigh rides into the National Elk Refuge depart daily between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. nersleighrides.com

JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Its 2,500 acres and 4,139 vertical feet of terrain are open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily through April 13. jacksonhole.com

SNOW KING MOUNTAIN

Lifts open daily until March 23. Hours: Monday–Friday 10 a.m.–6:30 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m.–4 p.m. (Summit Gondola closes at 4 p.m. daily). snowkingmountain.com

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WILDLIFE ART

This museum takes an expansive view of the wildlife art genre with its 5,000-plus-piece permanent collection. wildlifeart.org

GRAND TARGHEE

Lifts opens daily 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. through April 20. grandtarghee.com

DECEMBER

07 2ND ANNUAL SKI IN JEANS DAY

Kick off the ski season and celebrate the most famous pants in the West at JHMR with $25 lift tickets, discounted rentals and group lessons, and apresski celebrations. Teton Village, jacksonhole.com

07 HOLIDAY ART BAZAAR

The Art Association’s 60th annual Holiday Art

Bazaar is a juried fair showcasing handcrafted ceramics, jewelry, paintings, photography, woodwork, textiles, body care, knitted wares, and more from area artists. The Lodge at Jackson Hole, artassociation.org

31 NEW YEAR’S EVE IN TETON VILLAGE

Celebrate the New Year in Teton Village with a glow worm parade and fireworks. 4:45–7:30 p.m. Teton Village, jacksonhole.com

JANUARY

31–FEBRUARY 8

PEDIGREE STAGE STOP SLED DOG RACE

Mushers and their dog teams start in Jackson and race seven stages around the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. wyomingstagestop.org

FEBRUARY

8–16 KINGS & QUEENS OF CORBETS

Skiers compete to see who can ski Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s most iconic run with the most style. Teton Village, jacksonhole.com

MARCH

6–8 JACKSON HOLE FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL

Celebrate food, wine, sprits, and brews at this three-day event. jhfoodandwine.com

20–23 WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP SNOWMOBILE HILL CLIMB

Watch amateur and professional snowmobilers race to Snow King’s summit. Snow King Mountain, snowdevils.org

APRIL

4–5 JACKSON HOLE RENDEZVOUS FESTIVAL

This spring lifestyle and music festival has events on the Town Square and in Teton Village. jacksonhole.com

2024-25 Year-Round Events

Tickets on sale at gtmf.org

All performances at Center for the Arts, Jackson

Byron Stripling’s Holiday Swing!

Wed, December 18 at 7 PM

Ring in the holiday cheer with trumpeter Byron Stripling’s infectious yuletide joy and your favorite seasonal tunes. Stripling and vocalist Sydney McSweeney will dazzle audiences with their vibrant and soulful musicianship.

$50-$100; children/students $25-$50

Verona Quartet: Stomp

Sun, January 26 at 4 PM

Acclaimed for its bold interpretive strength and electrifying performances, the Verona Quartet explores the intersection of American Jazz and classical music with works by Ellington, Gershwin, Ravel, Shostakovich & more.

$25/50; children/students $5

This series is supported in part by:

Mike Block Trio

Sun, May 18 at 7 PM

Mike Block Trio, featuring Joe K. Walsh (mandolin/vocals) & Zachariah Hickman (bass/vocals), is led by cellist/ singer Mike Block, a member of Yo-Yo Ma’s Silk Road Ensemble. The trio performs American roots music with contemporary & international influences.

$50-$75; children/students $5

The Metropolitan Opera in HD Series

This series is supported in part by Center for the Arts | General Admission $25; children/students $5

Les Contes d’Ho mann

Sun, January 19 at 1 PM

Music by Jacques O enbach

O enbach’s final work is headlined by tenor Benjamin Bernheim in the title role of the tormented poet. Ho mann’s lovers are sung by soprano Erin Morley as Olympia, soprano Pretty Yende as Antonia and mezzo-soprano Clémentine Margaine as Giulietta.

Aida

Sun, March 16 at 3 PM

Music by Giuseppe Verdi

Soprano Angel Blue makes her long-awaited Met role debut as the Ethiopian princess torn between love and country, one of opera’s defining roles. Yannick NézetSéguin takes the podium for Michael Mayer’s spectacular new staging with dazzling projections and animations.

Tosca

Sun, February 23 at 3 PM

Music by Giacomo Puccini

Puccini’s melodrama about a volatile diva, a sadistic police chief, and an idealistic artist has o ended and thrilled audiences for more than a century. Lise Davidsen sings Tosca for her first time at the Met, alongside tenor Freddie De Tommaso in his company debut.

Fidelio

Sun, June 1 at 3 PM

Music by Ludwig van Beethoven

Fidelio’s unusual structure, glorious score and life-a rming aura make it a unique experience. It has been called a hymn to freedom and human dignity. Soprano Lise Davidsen stars as Leonore, who risks everything to save her husband from the clutches of tyranny.

THE FAMED GRIZZLY SOW known as Grizzly 399 lumbers through snow while foraging on the Moose-Wilson Road with her two cubs, just before heading into hibernation for the winter in late-November 2011. The iconic mother grizzly—known as the “Queen of the Tetons”—was killed in an accidental vehicle strike on Oct. 22, 2024, south of Jackson. At 28 years old, Grizzly 399 was the oldest known reproducing sow in the Greater Yellowstone region, and she leaves behind a legacy of raising at least 18 cubs over the course of her lifetime, often in full view of wildlife watchers from around the world.

Fine Western & American Art

True original