Jackson Hole magazine by Teton Media Works, Inc.

magazine

Jackson Hole SUMMER 2013

Discover

Yellowstone

Insiders share hidden gems, old favorites, and secret adventures.

ADVENTURE

DINING

Teton Meals with Crest Trail a View

HISTORY

CULTURE

Jackson Hole Ranchers as [COMPLIMENTARY COPY] Playhouse Conservationists

jhsir.com

Find out why now is the PERFECT TIME to make JACKSON HOLE your home. Find This Week’s Best Values Stay on Top of the Real Estate Market Learn about the Community Put an Expert to Work for You

Why Jackson Hole? Why Now?

2012 MARKET UPDATE

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®,™ and SM are licensed trademarks to Sotheby’s International Realty Afﬁliates LLC. An Equal Opportunity Company. Equal Housing Opportunity. Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty is Independently Owned and Operated.

OLD WEST MEETS THE NEW WEST

Shooting Star’S tom Fazio DeSigneD golF CourSe waS reCently rankeD 4th on golFweek’S liSt oF 100 BeSt reSiDential CourSeS. loCateD at the BaSe oF the JaCkSon hole mountain reSort, Shooting Star oFFerS a limiteD numBer oF memBerShipS, home SiteS, anD CaBinS. the next phaSe oF CaBinS anD the loDgeS at FiSh Creek will Be releaSeD thiS Summer. JOHN L.RESOR A SSOCIATE B ROKER JOHN.RESOR@JHSIR.COM 877-739-8062 | 307-739-8062 WWW. S HOOTINGS TARJ H . COM This is not an offer to sell nor a solicitation of offers to buy real estate in Shooting Star by residents of Connecticut, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, New York, New Jersey, Oregon, or in any other jurisdiction where prohibited by law. ACCESS TO AND RIGHTS TO USE RECREATIONAL AMENITIES WITHIN SHOOTING STAR MAY BE SUBJECT TO PAYMENT OF USE FEES, MEMBERSHIP REQUIREMENTS, OR OTHER LIMITATIONS.

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Jackson Hole

Page

Features 58 68

Yellowstone National Park

P H O T O G A L L E RY

The Snake River

Our itty-bitty guide to a very big park

A photographic trip down one of the country’s mightiest waterways

Welcome to the Neighborhood

PhotogRaPhY BY kiRk anDERSon

Black bears, grizzlies, cougars, and wolves are all around, some in increasing numbers. How can we best coexist? BY Dina MiShEv with jaYME fEaRY

The Richest Life For some ranchers, it’s the assets they leave on the land that represent the true meaning of legacy. BY toDD wilkinSon

ON THE COVER: “I’m always looking to show a different view with my photographs,” says photographer Thomas Stanton. Stanton took this image of Yellowstone’s Grand Prismatic Spring, North America’s largest hot spring and the third largest in the world, after bushwhacking up a nearby knoll. “I wanted to get high enough to get all of Grand Pris,” says Stanton, who had never been out West before moving to Jackson Hole in 2001. The spring, which is in the park’s Midway Geyser Basin, is so vividly colored because of chlorophyll, carotenoids, refracted skylight, and pigmented bacteria in the microbial mats that grow around its edges. 8

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

kiRk anDERSon

Summer 2013

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The 2013 Coeur d’Alene Art Auction will be held July 27th at the Peppermill Resort in Reno, Nevada.

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Jackson Hole

Summer 2013 Page

JH Living 30

TETONSCAPES

Teton Valley Ranch Camp, Jackson Hole Wine Auction, Teton County Library, and the GTNP visitor center PIquEd

Some of our favorite summer stuff LOCALS

34 Meet Some Jacksonites Nona Yehia, Marena Salerno Collins, Jack Keckler, and Jim Stanford

ON THE JOB

40 Rivers Run Through It David Cernicek, river manager

BY MollY looMiS

BuSINESS

44 Summer of Love

Weddings are big business in the Tetons.

BY caRa Rank

dESIGN

48 Going Native Page

122

Natural landscaping is in.

BY Dina MiShEv

LOOkING BACk

92 Playing On

Jackson Hole Playhouse has a long history.

BY BRiEllE SchaEffER

OuTdOORS

98 Old-School Hunting An outfitter with a timeless approach

BY PaUl BRUUn BRaDlY j. BonER

AS THE HOLE dEEPENS

102 How to Win Friends and Rob Banks BY tiM SanDlin

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Best of JH GETTING OuT

107 On the Water

Canoeing and kayaking

BY EUgEnE BUchanan

112 Outside Art

The new Sculpture Trail

BY RichaRD anDERSon

116 Hiking an Icon

Head for the Teton Crest Trail.

BY Dina MiShEv

BOdY & SOuL

122 Your Brain on Jackson Hole

Time outside is good for your health.

BY REBEcca hUntington

NIGHTLIFE

128 The Hills are Alive

Two free outdoor concert series

BY alliSon aRthUR

dINING

132 Dinner and a View Local scenic eateries

BY kElSEY DaYton

ART SCENE

144 Arts for All

Dance, music, and visual arts

BY RichaRD anDERSon

164 JACkSON HOLE MAPPEd 166 CALENdAR OF EVENTS

caRRiE PattERSon

Greetings from the Editor PRicE chaMBERS

Writing this toWard the end of April, I’m looking out my window and it’s snowing. Quite adamantly. Yes, fresh out of college, I moved to Jackson Hole for its winters, but sixteen years later, I’m still here because of the valley’s summers. In late April, I was wishing we could fast-forward to July, by which time even the most stubborn of soggy springs would have ended and my favorite season would be in full swing: barbecues and drinking beer around the fire pit in the backyard; Grand Teton Music Festival concerts; car camping up Curtis Canyon; and Thursday Art Walks around downtown galleries. But while this valley is a magical place, it’s not so magical as to be able to bend the laws of time. Thankfully, as I await summer’s arrival, I can at least enjoy it in my mind’s eye editing the articles in this issue. Reading Richard Anderson’s piece, “Outside Art,” (p. 112) on the new Sculpture Trail at the National Museum of Wildlife Art has me dreaming of outdoor yoga. And Kelsey Dayton’s dining article, “Dinner and a View,” (p. 132) about restaurants that are a feast for your eyes as much as your stomach? I can attest that the mentioned tempura portobello mushroom fries served by The Deck at the top of the

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort gondola very well might be the best item on any menu in the valley. And the breakfast and dinner cruises to Elk Island in Jackson Lake really are one of the best things to do in Grand Teton National Park. While it’s technically not in Jackson Hole, Yellowstone National Park nonetheless casts a large shadow over this valley. Our first-ever Yellowstone package (p. 58) is far from an exhaustive guide to the world’s first national park, but still I hope it inspires both locals and visitors to do something new there— even if that “something new” is merely trying the baked beans at the Roosevelt Lodge. On the culture front, Brielle Schaeffer did an exhaustive amount of research into the history of the Jackson Hole Playhouse in “Playing On” (p. 92). The building, which was built in 1916, has been host to theater and musical productions for many decades now, but started its life as a car dealership and garage … even if there weren’t any automobiles in the valley yet. Finally, because bad gear can ruin good adventures, we’ve expanded our Piqued department. Between these two pages of recommendations (p. 30) and also Jackson Hole Mapped (p. 164), our list of must-dos for different locations around the valley, you should be able to outfit and plan a summer’s worth of adventures. If you’re a visitor just passing through, well, it’s never too early to start planning a return trip. — Dina MiShEv P.S. Make sure to check in with jacksonholemagazine.com for original content and interviews with valley personalities.

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

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Jackson Hole Summer 2013 jacksonholemagazine.com PuBLISHER

Kevin Olson

KISMET RUGS: serving jackson’s hole since 1990

EdITOR

Dina Mishev ART dIRECTOR

Wayne Smith PHOTO EdITOR

Bradly J. Boner COPY EdITOR

Pamela Periconi CONTRIBuTING WRITERS

Richard Anderson Allison Arthur Paul Bruun Eugene Buchanan Kelsey Dayton Jayme Feary Lucy Flood S. Harrison Grigg

Rebecca Huntington Molly Loomis Cara Rank Tim Sandlin Brielle Schaeffer Jim Stanford Todd Wilkinson

CONTRIBuTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Kirk Anderson Jaclyn Borowski Price Chambers Travis Garner David Gonzales

Daryl Hunter Carrie Patterson Thomas Stanton David Stubbs David J Swift

dIRECTOR OF AdVERTISING

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Heather Best Ad dESIGN & PROduCTION

Stacey Walker Oldham Lydia Wanner BRANd MANAGER

Amy Golightly dISTRIBuTION

Hank Smith Jeff Young

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OFFICE MANAGER

Kathleen Godines © 2013 Jackson Hole magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this production may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher. No responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited editorial contributions. Manuscripts or other material to be returned must be accompanied by a self-addressed, stamped envelope adequate to return the material. Jackson Hole magazine is published semiannually. Send subscription requests to: Jackson Hole magazine, P.O. Box 7445, Jackson, Wyoming 83002. (307) 733-2047, E-mail: dina@jhmagazine.com. Visit www.jacksonholemagazine.com.

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Contributors For nearly thirty years, Bozeman, Montanabased writer Todd Wilkinson (“The Richest Life,” p. 82) has been a national magazine and newspaper journalist with assignments that have taken him around the world. He began his career as a violent crime reporter for the City News Bureau before moving West. His latest book, Last Stand: Ted Turner’s Quest to Save a Troubled Planet, tracks Turner’s evolution from pioneering media mogul to a bison baron and trailblazing eco-humanitarian. Locals here know Wilkinson’s work because he’s been writing an environmental newspaper column for the Jackson Hole News&Guide for a quarter century.

Molly Loomis (“Rivers Run Through It,” p. 40) splits her time between the east and west side of the Tetons, depending on the season. A longtime land-loving climber, Molly has lately been spending more and more time on the water, exploring the region’s rivers and loving every minute of it—except when she tips her boat and swims. Molly’s writing focuses on conservation, travel, and outdoor sports and has appeared in publications like The Wall Street Journal, Outside, Sierra, and Backpacker. For updates on Molly’s writing projects, along with natural history essays about experiences she has while adventuring, visit her blog, wildmatter.com.

A former reporter for the Denver Business Journal and fourteen-year editor in chief of Paddler magazine, Eugene Buchanan (“On the Water,” p. 107) has written about the outdoors for more than twenty-five years, from covering the X Games for ESPN.com to working for NBC at the Beijing Olympics. With freelance articles published in the New York Times, Men’s Journal, Sports Afield, Outside, National Geographic Adventure, and ForbesLife, he has visited more than thirty countries on six continents. A Fellow member of The Explorers Club, his first book, Brothers on the Bashkaus, was released by Fulcrum Publishing in 2007. His second book, Outdoor Parents, Outdoor Kids, was released by Heliconia Press in 2010. Buchanan lives with his wife, Denise, and daughters, Brooke, thirteen, and Casey, ten, in Steamboat Springs, Colorado, just a block away from the Yampa River. 16

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

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Teton

scapes history

Teton Valley Ranch Camp celebrates its seventy-fifth anniversary.

Bryan Anderson instructs a camper at Teton Valley Ranch Camp near dubois, Wyoming, where it relocated in 2002 after six-some decades in kelly.

BY jiM StanfoRD

up for sale in 2001, alumni led by former directors Matt and Judy Montagne raised millions to purchase the Crooked Creek Ranch near Dubois and move the camp there. TVRC now owns 2,300 acres and leases another 2,300 of adjacent public land. Traditions dating to Weenie Wilson’s time endure. Chief among them is allowing kids to choose their own activities. Campers progress through various skill levels and eventually take climactic backpacking or longdistance horse pack trips. And while there are all sorts of competitive games, campers cheer one another on while singing songs or telling tales around the campfire. Director Tom Holland expects up to 750 alumni spanning three generations to take part in the seventy-fifth anniversary celebration in July. Chicago filmmaker and alumna Alicia Sams will show a short film about the camp. The boys’ season runs from mid-June to mid-July, then the girls arrive and stay till mid-August. Tuition is $5,600. Yes, the camp has moved over Togwotee Pass, but it’s still around and thriving, Holland says. “While the location changed, the spirit is still 100 percent intact.” JH

WITH A CRY of “A-yip,” cowboys usher horses into the corral as the sun’s first rays peek over a nearby ridge. Young campers rub sleep from their eyes while the head wrangler calls out the names of their assigned steeds: Ghost, Rufus, Bluebonnet. An hour later, after riding into the sage-covered hills, the boys will have eggs and bacon sizzling on a griddle over an open fire. For seventy-five summers, kids have been learning western ways like this at Teton Valley Ranch Camp. Originally in Kelly, the camp moved in 2002 to a ranch west of Dubois. During a monthlong stay, kids—segregated by gender and prohibited from using any electronic devices—not only practice skills such as trail riding, roping, fly tying, and lapidary (polishing stones), they also gain a sense of stewardship and leadership that can stay with them for a lifetime. So deep are the bonds campers form during these experiences that many of them return for multiple visits, later work at the camp, or even move to Wyoming. “The physical challenges, combined with the loving and supporting community that camp 22

DaviD StUBBS

Still Home on the Range

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

is, are incredible building blocks for young people,” says attorney Robbin Levy, one of dozens of alumni who today make their home in Jackson Hole. In the summer of 1980, Levy, then eleven years old, boarded a plane from suburban Michigan and ventured West for the first time. She remembers waking up at camp and walking outside to her first view of the Tetons. “I was just a goner at that point,” she says. Levy attended the camp for four years and worked there three summers while in college. As soon as she graduated, she immediately drove back to Jackson Hole to work at the ranch again. Today, she serves on the board of directors, and her eleven-year-old daughter will attend camp for the first time this summer. “I’ve come full circle now,” she says. Founded by Wendell “Weenie” Wilson and his wife, Mary Ellen, the ranch has hosted progeny of the Rockefeller and Roosevelt families and one of aviator Charles Lindbergh’s sons. Attendees used to ride the Union Pacific Railroad to Rock Springs to meet their hosts. After the Wilson family put the property in Kelly

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Teton

scapes food + wine

The Wine West There’s a valley vintners and chefs from around the world can’t wait to come to ... and it’s not Napa.

Raft the whitewater of the Snake River in the morning, track one of the country’s only herds of free-roaming buffalo in the afternoon, and, come evening, rub shoulders with vintners like Doug Shafer (Shafer Vineyards), chefs like Michelin three-star Daniel Boulud, and perhaps even royalty like Marchese Nicolo Incisa della Rocchetta (who, when not attending to marchese-al duties, is the president of the Super Tuscan, Sassicaia). This is the Jackson Hole Wine Auction. It’s no wonder bidders and foodies travel from across the country to rub shoulders with these guests, drink the wine and eat the food they prepare, and bid on rare wines and experiences. Now in its nineteenth year, the auction, which has raised upwards of $6 million for the Grand Teton Music Festival, “has been successful beyond our wildest dreams,” says auction cofounder and former GTMF Board Chair Bill Weiss. Held annually the third full week of June— before the Grand Teton Music Festival Orchestra is in residence and the nonprofit becomes consumed with producing its seven-week summer concert season—the Jackson Hole Wine Auction did not come from humble beginnings. After just its freshman effort in 1995, Wine Spectator named JHWA one of the country’s top ten charity wine auctions. “We never anticipated the caliber and number of worldclass vintners and chefs that would want to come to Jackson Hole,” Weiss says. Perhaps it was initially Jackson Hole’s scenery that brought vintners, wineries, and chefs to the event. Today, though, the auction enjoys a reputation as one of the friendliest and most relaxed in the country. “We can’t discount the fact that everyone wants to come 24

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

BRADLY J. BONER

BY DINA MISHEV

to Jackson, but it’s also known to be a superfun event unlike anything else. The closest thing to it would be the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen [Colorado], but we have maybe five hundred to six hundred guests, and Aspen has one thousand. Our event is much more personal, and it’s entirely likely you’ll be sitting at dinner next to a winemaker. Or at least you’ll be at a table with one,” says Katrina Ryan, Weiss’ thirty-three-year-old daughter, the event’s chair for this year, and the owner of Westside Wine & Spirits. Indeed, at last year’s event, sitting beside an outdoor fire pit at the Four Seasons after the kick-off Premiere Wine Tasting—during which I had no fewer than fifteen glasses in front of me filled with everything from Flowers, Hanzell, Chateau Montelena, Staglin Family Vineyards, and Far Niente—I fell into conversation with Robert Bower. Bower is the eighth generation of one of the founding families of the port houses of Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, and Croft. Sadly, I cannot remember much of our conversation, other than the fact he was having a great time, thought Jackson Hole one of the most beautiful places he had ever been, and that I recommended a hike up to Surprise and Amphitheater lakes in Grand Teton National Park.

Staff makes sure bidders are well-supplied with fine wines during the Jackson Hole Wine Auction’s live auction.

This intimacy and quality do not come cheap, though. The wine auction alternates between a jam-packed, three-day event and a more manageable two-day event. At the 2012 wine auction (one of the “big” years) a ticket including entrance to all of the events—the Premiere Wine Tasting, Taste of Jackson Hole, Food & Fashion Trunk Show & Luncheon, Hole in One Challenge/Scotch & Cigar Tasting, Signature Private Dinner, California Boutique Vineyards Wine Tasting, Gala Silent and Live Auctions, and the Gala Dinner—cost $3,250. Amazingly—or perhaps not, considering this is Jackson Hole— they sold out well before the event. (Fear not: Individual event tickets start around $100.) This year’s auction, as all odd-numbered years are, is a smaller one with just two events: a Riedel Welcome Party on June 21 and a Gala Auction on June 22. A combined ticket is $1,050. And remember, you’re not just getting food and wine, but also helping support the Grand Teton Music Festival. The wine auction generates about 10 percent of the nonprofit’s budget. JH

Adventure. Meet Luxury.

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Teton

scapes community

New technology, expansion bring Teton County Library into the twenty-first century. BY jiM StanfoRD WHEN dEB AdAMS began working at Teton County Library twenty-five years ago, she typed entries for the card catalog on a typewriter. The library was housed in a small log cabin on King Street built in 1938. Today, when patrons walk into the newly expanded library on Virginian Lane, they are greeted by a dazzling display of one thousand fiber optic cables. The strings of colored lights, corresponding to every category of the Dewey Decimal System, are part of an art installation called Filament Mind. Each time a library patron in Wyoming searches for information, the corresponding category lights up. The transformation has been nearly as radical as the leap from Gutenberg’s press to Twitter. Looking back on the card catalog, where patrons searched for titles by hand, Adams, now the library director, laughs. “Most people don’t know what that is,” she says. Completed in January in time for the library’s seventy-fifth anniversary, the renovation allowed for a new youth wing, more study rooms, a larger computer lab, and an expanded auditorium. Energy-efficiency upgrades and an overhaul of the electrical and data systems also were included. In all, the library added 11,000 26

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

square feet of space to the 24,000-square-foot facility built in 1997. Teton County funded the project with $10 million in voter-approved sales tax, and the library’s nonprofit foundation and volunteers contributed an additional $500,000 for all of the new technology, furnishings, and the artwork. Filament Mind, made by New York artists Brian Brush, Yong Ju Lee, and Noa Younse, is the library’s new face, greeting visitors as they walk in the entryway. The work “visualizes the collective curiosities” of library patrons, says Brush. As amazing as the new technology may be, Adams says, “We still do books.” She nods toward the west end of the main building, where on stylish couches and chairs readers cuddle up before a fireplace with printed works. After school, the new youth wing is abuzz, with kids playing video games on an eightyinch screen and using computers to do their own music and video editing. “We’re trying to make the library become as attractive and safe and as compelling a place as it possibly can be,” says Missy Falcey, executive director of the Library Foundation. “We realize kids are learning in a different format, and

Jeremy Pague finds a quiet spot and a comfortable seat before diving into a book at the recently remodeled and expanded Teton County Library.

we’re trying to accommodate that.” The auditorium doubled in size, now seating 125, and a divider allows it to be used for two events at once. A second information desk in the main wing helps patrons with research and using their e-readers. A nook off the entryway houses a permanent book sale. Photography hangs in a gallery space. Adams marvels at the hive of activity. In study rooms, adults work on online degrees, while kids receive tutoring help. “These are people looking to further their education, their knowledge,” she says. “It does my heart good every day to see that.” The library has seen a fivefold increase in visitation since moving from its log cabin digs. More than one thousand patrons a day now walk through its doors. Falcey expects even greater use when the public fully embraces all the improvements. “I can only imagine where it’s going to go once we hit our groove,” she says. JH

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Teton

scapes collaboration

A New Vision The Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center leads the way for national park infrastructure.

PRICE CHAMBERS

BY S. HARRISON GRIGG

tion and a recipient of the National Parks Achievement Award. At the park’s Moose entrance, the building’s serrated roofline looks like peaks rising against a backdrop of pines, as if the Tetons shouted over the Snake River and their echo remained embedded on the opposite bank. Blending with the landscape, the building’s western side is almost all glass; on the east, visitors are welcomed through a river-stone courtyard framed with Douglas fir columns. After ten years of planning, the center was built with an $8 million appropriation from

It’s hard to imagine architects simultaneously designing the glass-cube Apple Store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue and also a new visitor center and educational facility for the wild country of Wyoming. However, that’s just what Bohlin Cywinski Jackson did. Its Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Grand Teton National Park opened in 2007. The center represents both the collaborative leap of faith—funding and planning came from the nonprofit, government, and private sectors—required for extraordinary public works while reflecting the pioneering spirit of the Wyoming senator for whom it is named, the late Craig Thomas, a master at breaking the mold in conserva28

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

The design of the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at the Moose entrance to Grand Teton National Park inserts rustic lodge elements into a contemporary format.

Congress and $13.6 million raised in the private sector by the Grand Teton National Park Foundation, a Jackson-based nonprofit dedicated to providing financial support for projects that protect and enhance park resources. The former Moose Visitor Center, built in 1961, was a musty, cramped structure that no longer addressed the complexities of the changing biological and social landscapes of the park and its visitors. The National Park Service and the foundation, with additional support from

the Grand Teton Association, set out to erect a building that cultivated awe for the landscape, while dutifully reflecting the ecosystem beyond its walls. “Every time I enter the building, I’m so happy and proud of it, as is everyone in our organization,” says Leslie Mattson, president of the foundation. Mattson, park staff, and the entire community have every reason to be proud; the award-winning building offers a new vision for educational facilities in our national parks. For the interior, the park hired Ralph Appelbaum Associates, a design and communications firm that has created more than 500 museum exhibitions and visitor centers around the world, including the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum and Rio de Janeiro’s Museum of Tomorrow. Beyond modern architectural and educational design, every aspect of construction followed Silver LEED standards. The site excavation was conducted so as to create minimal ecological disruption. Expansive panels of Low-E glass and ENERGY STAR-rated appliances provide thermal efficiency for the expansive interior. Countertops, partitions, and carpets are made from recycled materials. Visitors are encouraged to adopt a wilderness mentality. “Pledge to Preserve” is emblazoned on a section of interior wall. Beneath, there’s a notebook for visitors to sign as an informal contract with the park and the resources therein. “The Discovery Center introduces visitors to the beauty and complexity of the Teton landscape, but also serves as a catalyst for stewardship and conservation efforts, both at home and more broadly,” says Grand Teton National Park Superintendent Mary Gibson Scott. While its sophisticated architectural design and educational technology encourage users to enjoy the space and learn about the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center ultimately accomplishes one simple thing: It encourages visitors inside to go outside. JH The Visitor Center is open year-round. For information on exhibits, special programs, ranger-led hikes, and other activities, visit www.nps.gov/grte/plan.

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Sleep Well Big Agnes, makers of down and synthetic sleeping bags, our favorites of which feature integrated sleeping pads, is named after a peak in northwestern Colorado’s Routt National Forest. Still, we’ve found their 15-degree Roxy Ann (women’s, pictured) and Lost Ranger (men’s) down bags are perfect for the Tetons. If you don’t run as cold as we do, maybe the 30-degree down Fish Hawk is more your summer style. Whichever one of these you go with, expect a cut that’s roomier than a traditional mummy bag and an integrated sleeping pad sleeve. You’ll never again wake up in the middle of the night having slid off your pad. BA’s Insulated Air Core pad might possibly be the most comfortable backcountry bed you’ve ever experienced. Bags $209.95 $239.95; insulated air core pads start at $79.95; available at Teton Mountaineering; 170 N. Cache

Fly Over The Trail With supersize midsoles and outsoles, Hoka One Ones (pronounced ho-ka o-nay onay) are the opposite of the barefoot running trend. Or are they? Hoka—a word derived from the Maori language that roughly translates to “now it is time to fly”—shoes merge the best of minimalism and maximalism. The company has taken several of the key performance traits of the oversize technology trend seen in skis, mountain bikes, and tennis racquets and paired them with recent footwear advances that aid in natural foot motion and efficient running mechanics. The result? Their Stinson Evo trail model absorbs roots and rocks like a down pillow while being 15 percent lighter than most other running shoes. And you do feel like you’re flying. $170; available at Skinny Skis; 65 W. Deloney

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Purified Water, No Pumping Necessary Water filter/purification pumps are so twentieth century. Ultraviolet, which is capable of destroying more than 99.9 percent of harmful bacteria and organisms in water, is where it’s at, especially with the new SteriPEN Ultra. The Ultra can purify up to one liter at a time and takes a mere forty-five to ninety seconds to do it. And it’s easy: Immerse the UV lamp in the water and swirl it around until the light turns itself off. Its rechargeable lithium battery can do fifty liters between charges. $99.95; available at High Country Outfitters; 50 E. Broadway

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Drink To Your Health “I’m not about making things that taste gross,” says Jessica Vandenbroeke, who founded the state’s only cold-pressed juicery, Healthy Being Juicery, in Jackson last summer. Despite her earnest profession, you’d be forgiven for doubting, especially when confronted with the emerald green of the Thrive juice (spinach, kale, garlic, cayenne, cucumber, parsley, ginger, and lemon). One sip and you’ll taste she’s telling the truth, though. $12/bottle; available at Inversion Yoga; 290 N. Millward

We’re not sure what we love most about Bin22’s new beer garden (opening midJune): the open fire pit in the middle, the Roadhouse Brewing beers on tap, or the restaurant’s well-priced, flavorful tapas menu. Once the newly planted hops grow enough to cover the surrounding wood slats, it’ll be so idyllic we might never leave. 200 W. Broadway; open daily from 10 until 10

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Real (Tasty) Energy We’ve long loved Kate’s Real Food Tram Bars. Last autumn, Kate Schade, the company’s founder and a local ripper, added the Tiki Bar to her lineup. Where Kate’s Tram Bar is milk chocolatey, peanut buttery goodness meant to stick with you during a bell-to-bell ski day, the Tiki Bar is more tropical with mango, cashews, and coconut. But, with all sorts of proteins (5 grams), fats (19 grams), and carbs (32 grams), they’ve still got plenty of good energy. From $2.79; available at grocery and outdoor stores throughout the valley

Summer Shirts SmartWool’s new PhD Run Short Sleeve Crew (pictured) has raglan sleeves to remove underarm seams and eliminate chafing, and varied knit textures to help with ventilation and enhance its fit. Its Cortina Tech Tee (women’s) and Teller Tech Tee (men’s) are also designed to be chafe-free and have a hidden internal sunglass wipe, which, now that we’ve experienced it, we don’t know how we ever lived without it. The 100 percent merino Short Sleeve V-neck is as simple as a T-shirt comes: simply the best, most comfortable T-shirt ever, that is. From $75; available at Wilson Backcountry Sports, Teton Mountaineering, and Skinny Skis

Buy This, Go Fish It doesn’t get much simpler: The Redington Topo Kit comes with a rod, reel, six flies, and all the pertinent accessories. All you need to add for a flyfishing adventure is a license. And perhaps cold beer. The details? Inside the kit is a nice variety of mayflies, caddis bugs, and beetles local fish love, a tippet and spare tippet, and a nice little pair of metal nippers to prep the next fly. $199.95; available at High Country Outfitters; 50 E. Broadway

Pedal Pusher Inspired by their (much more) expensive S-Works line, Specialized’s Ember shoes (the men’s model is the Road Comp) are part of the brand’s Body Geometry line and feature the Boa® dial-adjustable metallic lacing system. We love how the shoe placed our feet in the correct position but it was the sole stiffness and the Boa® dial adjustability that really shined, making the shoe snug and responsive without pinching. $160; available at Hoback Sports; 520 W. Broadway

TravelStorysGPS Because reading and driving go together like wolves and elk, TravelStorysGPS created a free(!) smartphone audio tour application of Jackson Hole’s natural and cultural histories. There are also audio tours just for kids. The app works both in your home or hotel room and in your car, where GPS-triggered hot spots prompt engaging audio descriptions—think This American Life—of what you’re about to drive by. Current routes include Highway 22 from Jackson to Wilson and over Teton Pass to the Idaho State Line, and also the Teton Park Road between Moose and Jackson Lake Lodge. Available in the iTunes app store; an Android version is coming soon; travelstorysgps.com

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Technical Good Looks Rumor is the ladies of Arc’teryx designed the new Codetta coat for themselves. Wanting to look good and stay dry during summer thunderstorms, they created a mid-thighlength rain jacket with just as much style as substance. Waterproof and breathable with taped construction seals and watertight zippers, the lightweight Codetta has a sleek, urban cut that’s much more Prada than parka. Still, a double kick pleat fits over a bike seat. Other Arc’teryx jackets have helmet-friendly hoods; Codetta’s was designed to cover, but not crush, updos. And the coat comes in fun colors like desert lapis, harvest, and the minty green hosta, in addition to standard black or blue onyx. $375; available at Teton Village Sports; 3285 McCollister Dr.

Exceptional service, extraordinary properties. Jackson Hole is a recreational paradise with more than 97% of its land protected from development, the friendliest tax climate in the U.S., and an unparalleled lifestyle. Knowledgeable, professional and client centered—Carol Linton and Betsy Bingle are a leading team with the area’s largest luxury brokerage. Contact us to learn about today’s real estate opportunities.

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Find extraordinary properties at www.LintonBingle.com Carol Linton: 307-699-1139 — CarolLinton@jhrea.com Betsy Bingle: 307-413-8090 — BetsyBingle@jhrea.com follow us on

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Nona Yehia From Very Small to Vertical Architect Nona Yehia and her attorney husband, Mark Sullivan, like extremes. Ten years ago, they bought property here; it was the obvious foil to their lives in Manhattan. They planned to spend two years in the Tetons with their kids but fell in love with the community and valley, and the whole family’s still here. At her firm, E/Ye Design, Yehia, forty-two, has drawn up plans for a five-hundredsquare-foot home on Snow King Avenue, forty-story office buildings in Kazakhstan, and the Teton Boulder Park. And then there’s Vertical Harvest, a three-story greenhouse Yehia is involved with, sited on the vacant lot on the south side of Jackson’s parking garage. When finished, the greenhouse will provide jobs for adults with disabilities and also produce to valley restaurants and residents. 34

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Q: Did you have the opportunity to do such a diversity of projects in Manhattan? A: No, I didn’t. I was much younger at that point and still in an architectural apprenticeship. Our Kazakh project came through a New York connection, and I had the opportunity to work with the Museum of Modern Art [then], but a lot of it was conceptual. The real built work, the real homes and opportunities to build ideas we were playing with came from Jackson. Q: A lot of your designs aren’t “western” at all. How has that gone over here? A: People who appreciate it really

appreciate it. We’re not for everybody and we recognize that. Our clients are fewer and farther between than other design firms, but when we get clients, it’s always a really good fit. There are a lot of amazing modern architects in this town that set the stage: Peggy Gilday, Stephen Dynia, and Carney Logan Burke were working in a modern aesthetic for five or ten years before I arrived. Q: Have you seen the popularity of a modern aesthetic growing here? A: Yes. What’s been interesting is that there are a lot of people moving toward smaller, more efficient ways of living. Our work with small spaces has attracted a lot of people. There’s definitely a clientele here that wants something affordable and cool, and that’s where we excel. Q: What is your relationship to our landscape? A: I ski. I like to hike. We have a dory. Rivers are fascinating to me. Q: What’s the current project you’re most excited about now? A: Vertical Harvest. To have a project that is so responsive to a community’s needs is rare. And I am very passionate about food and where it comes from. The innovative nature of urban gardening excites me. But also, I have a brother with developmental disabilities; to be engaged in a way that reanalyzes how that portion of our population is treated is really important to me. Q: Vertical Harvest is a business and not a nonprofit. Why? A: We made a conscious decision that it would be a business so that it could be a model for other businesses that prioritize social impact. I felt strongly that I didn’t want it to be perceived as a charity, that [for people with developmental disabilities] it is a natural path from schooling to work. Q: After a decade in Jackson Hole, do you miss Manhattan? A: I miss the energy of walking in the city. My favorite thing used to be walking from my home in lower Manhattan up to SoHo and through Chinatown or Little Italy, and going from world to world with all the different people that occupy it. Interview by Lucy Flood

SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Jim Stanford The Votin’ Boatman Like so many Jacksonites, Jim Stanford arrived here shortly after college graduation. Growing up on Long Island, he was enthralled with rivers, and “not ready to don a suit and commute into the city” after Duke University, Stanford beelined for the Snake. His first floats here were in an inner tube starting at Wilson. He moved on to work as a shuttle driver for Barker-Ewing in Grand Teton National Park and quickly graduated to boatman-in-training and then full-fledged boatman. This will be his fourteenth summer guiding the Snake. Along the way, Stanford, forty-two, worked as a reporter and editor for the Jackson Hole News&Guide and as editor in chief of this magazine, winning three dozen state and national press awards. His website, JHUnderground.com, is a trusted alternative media source. Last fall, he became one of the newest elected members of the Jackson Town Council. 36

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Q: You moved here for adventure; what’s kept you here? A: The community is what keeps me here. Every time I’ve thought about leaving over the years, some opportunity has come up and I’ve ended up planting even deeper roots. I’ve had so many wonderful opportunities here; one thing has always led to something new. Q: The newest thing is your election to the Jackson Town Council. How’d politics happen? A: It was a natural evolution. As a journalist, I was involved in reporting issues and it got to the point where I was so moved by what I was reporting, I

felt I had to roll up my sleeves and do something about it. I was moving from journalism to activism or advocacy. And then friends started encouraging me to run. They knew that I’d take the time to learn about the issues and that I’d work hard. Q: Journalism and politics are different sides of the table. How is making the shift? A: My work as a journalist was great training for a lot of the work I do on the council in terms of evaluating issues and asking hard questions. But I’m learning that politics is much more nuanced than the black and white it seems from the outside. Q: And how does river experience translate into the political arena? A: All of those years of meeting people from all over the country and world helped, but the first time I had to get up at a candidate forum and talk about myself, it was much more intense. On your boat, people are eager to listen. It’s a friendly audience. That’s not always the case in politics. Q: Do you have a pet project? A: The future of Snow King. It’s dear to my heart and close to my house. In so many ways it is the heart of this community. How and what we see on Snow King—what kind of recreation, what kind of facilities—to me, it is critical we get it right. Sometimes I wonder if in our zeal to make it profitable we could end up turning the mountain into more of an amusement park. To me, that could be to the detriment of the community in the long run.

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Q: this is your first summer as a councilor-boatman hyphenate. Are you going to get to guide as much? A: I’ll be guiding three days a week, which is one day a week less than I’ve been on the schedule in the past. Q: What’s your favorite stretch of the snake? A: Deadman’s Bar to Moose. The river is free-flowing—not bounded by levees and the channels are free to meander— and there’s an abundance and variety of wildlife. And the scenery isn’t too bad, either. It is prime time in the Tetons.

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Marena Salerno Collins & Jack Keckler High Schoolers of Rock Seventeen-year-olds Marena Salerno Collins and Jack Keckler each play more than five instruments. Marena, who moved to the valley from Washington’s Whidbey Island when she was fourteen, started with the violin when she was five and has since picked up the viola, the saxophone, and the bassoon. She’s also dabbled with piano and voice lessons. “I always come back to the low-resonance instruments; you can feel the vibrations throughout your body,” she says. Jack started with the cello in his mandatory sixth-grade music class and has gone on to learn his way around the guitar and the bass. “I can pretend I know what I’m doing on other stringed instruments, too,” he says. Together, as Closed Set, Jack and Marena play classical, jazz, Django, Celtic, and pretty much anything else that catches their fancy. “Rock is hard to do with just two people, though,” Marena says. 38

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Q: How’d you two start playing together? A (Marena): I joined the high school orchestra last year [the 2011-12 school year] and my friends who were already in it told me I should be friends with Jack because ‘he plays a bunch of instruments, too.’ It’s amazing it has only been a year. I feel like I’ve known him my entire life. We’re best friends. It’s weird how life can do that when you’re young.

Q: How do your practice sessions go? A (Marena): Often it’s a Sunday night after we’ve finished with homework. Jack’ll just come over and we jam late into the night. Jack: If we have a goal, we’re not very productive. But if we just jam and have fun, sometimes some really cool stuff comes out of it. Q: Like? A (Marena): I have an electric violin, and one night I was just plucking it and recording and playing over it, and then Jack was adding guitar. We ended up with a song of rhythm beats.

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Q: You don’t just play music, but perform. Lots. What does being in front of people do for you? A (Jack): That’s one of the great things about Jackson. It is this resort town full of ski bums that are so laid-back and the only thing they care about is having fun, and that carries over into all kinds of things, including music. You share an energy with the audience. Q: is it all about performing? A (Marena): No. Whenever I’m stressed at school, which is a lot, I go home and play for a while and it is the one time my mind is clear. When I’m practicing, it’s just me and the music. There’s a peace of mind. When I’m performing, I think of the weirdest things. Q: You both have clear ideas of what you want to be when you grow up. How has music influenced that? A (Jack): I’ve had so much fun with music and it’s made me so happy that I want to share it with others. We both already give lessons on our instruments, and I want to keep teaching music, helping others appreciate it and keeping it alive. Marena: In Seattle, music was so competitive and rigid, it wasn’t fun and it turned me off to making it my profession. Moving to Jackson was nice because now I can just enjoy the music and share it with people who really enjoy it and have fun. So that’s what I’m going to do: I’m going to be a doctor, but I’ll always share music and have fun with it. IntERvIEw By DIna MIShEv

JacksonListings.com WilsonListings.com TetonVillageListings.com Broker/Owner

Representing Buyers and Sellers in Jackson Hole since 1989 Teri@TeriMcCarthy.com 307.690.6906

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on the job

Rivers Run Through It Collaboration is key for BTNF river manager David Cernicek. BY MOLLY LOOMIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY PRICE CHAMBERS

IT’S A BEAUTIFUL fall afternoon when David Cernicek, river manager for the Bridger-Teton National Forest (BTNF), and I make our way south of town for an afternoon float on the Snake River. As we drag the dark green forest service raft onto the Pritchard boat ramp, crisp leaves fluttering in the light, warm wind, Cernicek laments how each rise in pay grade equates to less time on the water. 40

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

While Cernicek, forty-four, may pine for the days earlier in his career spent outdoors as a river ranger, his work indoors has made a tremendous difference in not only the quality of a Snake River Canyon experience, but also for local kids lacking opportunities to explore their own backyard and its watershed. Picture it—groups of one hundred boaters floating down the Snake River

As the BTNF river manager, David Cernicek looks after thousands of miles of waterways around Jackson Hole. Floating the Hoback River south of Jackson, Cernicek collects garbage and checks in on conditions.

Canyon all at the same time; rampant illegal guiding; decrepit boat ramps with widespread erosion; dangerous, impromptu overflow parking on the highway; poorly marked, disorganized parking lots that haven’t been chip sealed in twenty-five years; old toilets that routinely overflow and lack ventilation; rangers that rarely have time for river patrols; and Lincoln County Commissioners (the canyon falls under their jurisdiction) fed up with their search and rescue team responding to incidents while all the money garnered from canyon rafters stays in Teton County. This is what Cernicek

walked into when he joined the BTNF as a river ranger in 1999. Flash forward—trash, recycling, and bear-proof food storage containers at popular boat launches; new vault toilets that are regularly serviced (to the tune of $3,000 for toilet paper and $6,000 for pumping—who knew?); river rangers running regular patrols and available for rescues; restoration programs addressing erosion and habitat; maintained parking lots and boat ramps; a supply of emergency defibrillators stashed along the canyon corridor; an outfitter schedule more evenly distributing float trips not only across the entire week but also any given day. This is what the busiest stretches of the northern BTNF’s watershed looks like today. While Cernicek now oversees thousands of miles of creeks and streams, and also four hundred miles of designated Wild and Scenic River split between thirteen different waterways within the Snake River system, a single eight-mile section of Class III whitewater demands most of his attention. The Snake River Canyon sees up to five thousand people on it daily—from anglers to kayakers, commercial and private rafters, and even surfers—during the height of the summer season. It is one of the busiest sections of any river in the country. IN THE LATE 1990s, user impact on the Snake River Canyon was taking its toll. Illegal guiding was rampant, U.S. Forest Service presence was minimal, and at the peak of summer, three thousand to five thousand people floated the canyon each day. Faced with a shrinking budget, the Bridger-Teton National Forest decided to implement parking and user fees as a way to cover the gap in expenses. A group of dedicated local river users didn’t like this idea, though. Rather than merely complain, however, late in the summer of 1998 they founded the Snake River Fund with the mission of filling the financial gap. The Snake River Fund would assist with river ranger salaries, facilities upkeep, safety and law enforcement training, guide education, and conservation initiatives. This public-private river

partnership is the only one of its kind in the country. Cernicek entered the picture the following year, 1999. Rather than run from the challenge of bridging the gap between public and private, Cernicek embraced the chance to work on this new kind of partnership. Fourteen years later, he’s at the helm (although Cernicek prefers to emphasize that it’s a “collaborative effort”) of the Snake River system. The ten cases of fee envelopes ordered back in the late 1990s are still collecting dust in a warehouse. “The outfitters’ willingness to go along with this hairbrained, voluntary donation program is what made it a success,” writes Cernicek in an email. GROWING UP IN a soccer-obsessed family in Los Alamos, New Mexico, Cernicek—who didn’t enjoy team sports when his dad was coach—found salvation in a group called Explorer Post 20, a Boy Scout-like organization that focused on river trips. Cernicek quickly rose through the ranks, graduating from newbie status to running rivers like the Arkansas, Rio Grande, and Green. On the day he graduated from New Mexico Military Institute, he hitchhiked 250 miles to Colorado to find work guiding on the Arkansas River.

Oil drums are the least of Cernicek’s worries: He’s also pulled an RV, a carved totem pole, and bloated cows out of area rivers.

Cernicek remembers he almost didn’t make his first Explorer Post 20 trip. He had tickets to a Van Halen concert. But he chose the river, heading out on his first multiday trip. It was nonstop rain and snow for his entire six days on the Yampa and Green rivers. He’d never been so cold—“I couldn’t untie my shorts to pee!”—but he felt an intoxicating sense of freedom; the trip radically changed how he wanted to spend his time. “It was the first time I wasn’t a screwed-up kid just wanting to be outside,” he says. “It was a crucial junction. I think a lot about what would have happened if I didn’t go on that trip. I might have ended up an insurance salesman.” Cernicek makes this quip only halfjokingly. After graduating from Creighton University in Nebraska, he “avoided law school” by enrolling in a graduate economics program. Eventually, he realized all he wanted was to work outside and left economics for a master’s program in natural resources. He got a summer job working on the Rio Grande’s Taos Box section as a river ranger. “I loved everything about the job—I couldn’t believe there would be such a SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Years ago, Cernicek, training a new student ranger, found “gushy” trash bags in the river. “I thought they were people parts, and the student ranger would be horrified. It turned out to be only clothing,” says Cernicek, who later married this new ranger.

thing and you could get paid for it.” It wasn’t just the time on the water that Cernicek loved, it was “getting handed a portion of river and being told, ‘This is yours to take care of.’ ” AFTER STINTS WITH the National Park Service’s Rivers, Trails and Conservation Assistance Program, the American Heritage Rivers Initiative, Wild and Scenic River Management, and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Cernicek landed in Jackson in 1999 as the Bridger-Teton’s

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river manager. He arrived in the thick of the user-fee debate. “It was the first time I’d seen citizens taking action to take care of their resources,” he says. “It’s a special place, in that people accept the failings of government and say, ‘OK, how can we help?’ ” One of Cernicek’s first tasks was building a relationship with the Snake River Fund. “A very clear duty of mine was to make the partnership work at all costs. That was straight from Washington,” says Cernicek. “I thought it was awesome. I didn’t get into government to be government. The ability to try something that’s different and off the beaten path of what we usually do—I was thrilled. I thrive on solving a problem where I don’t have to do it the same old bureaucratic way. It was a great challenge.” Cernicek now receives calls from groups around the country, curious how to start their own partnerships. After nearly three decades of working with rivers, 90 percent of Cernicek’s duties now occur on shore. Gone are the daily paddles and overnights on the river. Today, Cernicek oversees an average of ten seasonal river rangers; works with local outfitters on permits and compliance; writes grants; interacts with the owners of lands that abut riverfront; and tries to make a dent in a never-ending pile of paperwork. Cernicek might tend toward selfdeprecating jokes, but his contributions haven’t gone unnoticed. In 2008, he was awarded the Gifford Pinchot Excellence

in Interpretation and Conservation Education Award by the River Management Society. “Dave has done a lot of great things both in and out of his role with the Bridger-Teton National Forest,” says Heather Ewing, Board Member Emeritus to the Snake River Fund. “Community, river, forest service, friend—he’s a huge asset to the community. He’s become invested in the broader picture and continues to invest his time, energy, and love, all for the better of the resource.” FOR ASPIRING RIVER rangers, Cernicek extends an open invitation to visit and spend time on the river. Boating experience helps, but Cernicek says the job is 90 percent about getting along with people—being able to converse clearly and understand where people are coming from. “We can teach the river skills. We want good communicators,” he says. “It doesn’t hurt to like human waste, either.” Cernicek isn’t joking about this. When we take out at Elbow boat ramp, we find a bathroom smeared in a thick, dried mess of excrement. Usually, there’s a truck specially equipped with a pump to take care of these sorts of disasters, but the river rangers disassembled the truck as they departed at the end of the summer. “A fire engine is going to be the thing,” he says. “One of the benefits of being a Hoback fireman.” Despite the less-than-glamorous aspects of the job, Cernicek still loves his work. I can’t tell if he’s joking when he says there were even a few years when he would have done it for free. “I still get all weepy if I find a ‘No Camping’ sign down on the Rio Grande that I put up seventeen years ago,” he says as he maneuvers the oars through the cold waters of the Snake. “May seem small, but it works for me.” JH

Despite the fact that student outreach isn’t in his job description, one of Cernicek’s favorite parts of his job is working with Teton 10 (teton10.org), a cooperative effort between BTNF and local nonprofits that engages area kids with a series of ten activities designed to get them outside. In 2010, Cernicek put in the extra hours and founded (although true to form, he emphasizes it as a collaborative effort) the program, an offshoot of the USFS program Children’s Forest. Through Teton 10’s participating nonprofit organizations, which include Spanish programming and materials, kids are challenged to do things like learn about geology with Teton Science Schools, ride horses with Power Ponies, or get out on the water with Bud Chatham of Dave Hansen Whitewater. Rewards include gear prizes and college scholarships. “The federal government realizes they’ve lost a generation to Nintendo machines. We as an agency are addressing that. We don’t want kids to grow up and become decision makers without the forest being meaningful,” says Cernicek. But it’s not just about creating future land stewards; it’s also fun and provides a chance to give back. “When everything is crazy and stressful, it’s nice to work on something that can really make a difference. It’s the ability to change something that can go horribly wrong into something that can go right. The outdoors has the potential for those powerful experiences,” he says. 42

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Modern Mountain Apparel for the Whole Family Visit The Stio Mountain Studio just off the Jackson Town Square. Also featuring Pistil Designs, Rainbow, Kaenon, Crochet Kids, Snow Peak and more.

Open Daily 10 East Broadway (Cache St. Entrance) 307.201.1890 | www.stio.com

JH Living

business

Summer of Love Weddings are a booming business in the Tetons. BY CARA RANK PHOTOGRAPHY BY CARRIE PATTERSON

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

THE RUMORS STARTED when someone’s friend heard from a woman at the Amangani pool—or maybe it was Spring Creek—that a big New York City band had been flown in for a wedding one weekend last summer. Tens of thousands of dollars of flowers were imported by the couple’s outof-state florist for the occasion. They were kept fresh in an air-conditioned rented room at the Snow King Sports & Events Center. A crane was needed to put up the tent, shipped here from Chicago. Many in Jackson Hole—as well as a few national tabloids—were convinced the multiday frenzy was the wedding of pop singer Justin Timberlake to actress Jessica Biel. When reps for the famous couple (who did get engaged in Jackson Hole in 2011) confirmed the buzz was just rumors, gossipmongers were left wondering:

Whose wedding was it? It turns out the bride wasn’t anyone famous, but the daughter of a family with connections to the valley. This wedding, albeit a multimillion-dollar affair that was likely the biggest of last summer, was only one wedding on one weekend during a sixteen-week wedding season. It was only one of hundreds of valley weddings. Literally. Every summer, three hundred-some couples hold their big day in Jackson Hole. ACCORDING TO THE wedding websites TheKnot.com and WeddingChannel.com, the average price of a wedding is now $27,021. The sites polled nearly 18,000 U.S. brides who were married in 2011 about the cost of their nuptials. New York was the most expensive place to get married—the average wedding there cost $65,824—and West Virginia,

Valley weddings take advantage of the jaw-dropping scenery and (generally) beautiful summer weather but don’t neglect little details like personalized, monogrammed napkins and outdoor-themed gifts for guests.

where $14,203 covered everything, was the least expensive location. At Destination Jackson Hole, wedding planner Alison Kyle says her weddings can run from $10,000 to close to $200,000. “We can make any budget work,” she says. “We just have to prioritize.” Some of her clients only have twenty guests and $10,000 to spend. Others don’t have a budget. “I had one bride tell me what she wanted, and that’s just what we did,” Kyle says. “I didn’t have to tell her costs.” “In the past five to six years, Jackson’s wedding industry has really picked up,” says Sarajane Johnson, a florist and owner of Lily & Co, which does many dozens of weddings every summer. It’s not that the number of weddings has increased— according to the Teton County Clerk’s office, for the past decade the number of marriage licenses recorded every year has hovered around five hundred, with three

hundred-some being recorded between May and September—but the scale. “I’ve definitely seen the budgets and complexity go up,” says photographer Carrie Patterson, who has been doing wedding photography in the valley for the last seven years. In 1999, the first year it was published, the area’s only wedding/event planning publication was 32 pages. The 2013 issue of A Grand Wedding & Event Planner is 120 pages. In its 1999 issue, eight wedding locations advertised. In 2006, it was up to twenty-five. This year, there are thirty-five locations advertising. “We still don’t have a dress shop,” says Nancy McCullough-McCoy, publisher of A Grand Wedding & Event Planner, “but we definitely have the caterers, florists, locations, photographers, and consultants.” Pam Romsa, a co-owner of Canvas Unlimited, has been tenting and outfitting valley weddings since 1995. She

estimates that today, 85 percent of Canvas Unlimited’s business is wedding-related. A summer can bring Romsa up to one hundred weddings, anywhere from four to ten a week. As of this April, Canvas Unlimited already had most weekends fully booked for the 2013 season … and even a few 2014 weddings scheduled. The big change Romsa has seen is that the majority of the weddings she works on are now destination weddings. “I still do local weddings, but maybe 70 percent are destination,” she says. “A decade ago, it was more 50-50.” “OBVIOUSLY, WE’RE IN a beautiful destination,” Johnson says. “But now we have amazing lodging options, direct flights, and a number of wedding coordinators, florists, caterers, and other topnotch vendors.” Many think it’s the fancier lodging options that have most changed SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Thursday night welcome barbecue at Dornan’s Chuckwagon, a Friday night rehearsal dinner at the top of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s gondola, and finally, on Saturday, the actual wedding. Between evening events, the couple also planned a whitewater rafting excursion and a breakfast hike on Rendezvous Mountain for those who made the trip. Guests loved it—“I hear from so many people this was the best wedding they’ve ever been to, the highlight of their year,” Frantz says. And she and her now-husband loved it, too. “By the time the wedding came, we had talked to and seen everybody,” she says. “We didn’t feel the pressure to say hello to every single person.”

the scene. Amangani, where Timberlake and Biel got engaged, opened atop East Gros Ventre Butte in 1998. Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole followed next, opening in Teton Village in 2003. Also in Teton Village, Hotel Terra—the first LEEDcertified luxury boutique hotel in the world—opened in 2008. And then there is also the increase in flights into and out of Jackson Hole. Last summer, you could fly directly to Jackson from San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, Dallas/Fort Worth, Minneapolis, Atlanta, Houston, Denver, and Salt Lake City. Houston resident Caroline Frantz says it was fairly easy for her guests to travel to Jackson for her 2012 nuptials. “It was fun-

European-trained chef Maho Hakoshima, who moved to Jackson in 2003 from New York City, does wedding and event catering.

that Patterson herself photographed, have been featured on the website Style Me Pretty, which gets more than 1.4 million viewers a month. Kelleher says it’s not just Jackson Hole’s amenities and beauty that resonate with destination brides, though. “Caroline [Frantz] went to Teton Valley Ranch Camp when she was growing up,” Kelleher says. “She personally spent time in Jackson as a youth. Lots of couples have some connection to the valley.” A couple’s parents might have a second home here. Or a

“Destination-wise, Jackson is on the map. It’s a beautiful location with lots for guests to do.” ny, we expected more people not to come,” she says. “But most people had never been to Jackson and were dying to come. Most people came for a full week.” Elizabeth Kelleher, who founded the event planning business In Any Event, LLC in 2000 and was Frantz’s wedding planner, says, “The rule is usually that 33 percent of those invited don’t come, but that doesn’t hold true for weddings here.” “Destination-wise, Jackson is on the map,” says Patterson. “It’s a beautiful location with lots of stuff for guests to do.” Numerous weddings held here have been featured on popular wedding-related blogs and websites. Since 2009, a dozen weddings held in the valley, including six 46

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

couple could have gotten engaged here. Or maybe one of them spent childhood vacations here. “Very few couples pick Jackson randomly and get married here,” McCullough-McCoy says. “The destination weddings we see are couples that have been here. They have a connection to the Tetons in some way or the other and want to share this special place with their family on their special day.” FRANTZ, LIKE MOST brides—local or destination—who get married in the area, wanted her wedding to be a vacation for her guests rather than merely a single event. Each of the 250 guests was invited to three nights of events: a

WHILE COUPLES ARE taking advantage of the area’s scenic and active offerings, they are increasingly branching out from the valley’s Old West vibe. “I used to see a lot of the same western themes,” Patterson says. “I don’t see that much anymore.” Beyond renting tents, Romsa’s Canvas Unlimited also rents tables, chairs, linens, dinnerware, and dance floors. Recently, Romsa has sourced exotic linens, specialty lighting, and vintage mismatched china for weddings. “People are staying away from the cowhide and kitschy western,” Patterson says. “They are bringing in classic elements from back East and combining them with natural elements from here.” Custom pillows may dress up a hay-bale seating arrangement. Monogrammed cloth napkins are placed on top of pine tree chargers. Classic cocktails get a twist of local flavor: huckleberry margaritas and Wyoming Whiskey sours. And, like weddings across the country, heartfelt, personal touches are important. “One wedding we did has been featured so many times it literally is in every inspiration board brides send me,” Johnson says. It was held at the bride’s family’s home in Solitude. The reception featured homemade pies. The bride’s father built a ceremony table. The flowers were presented in containers passed down from the bride’s grandmother and aunts. “It was about more than just the bride and groom,” Johnson says. “The whole family was involved. I cried when she walked down the aisle. I literally finished that wedding and said, ‘If this is the last wedding I ever do, I would be completely satisfied.’ ” JH

Artwork from

ph 307 733-9893 gracehomedesign.com

design

DAVID J SWIFT

JH Living

Going Native Minimal landscaping using native species is a growing trend. BY DINA MISHEV

“We used to have to talk people out of giant megalawns,” says Mark Hershberger, who, in 2002, founded Jackson’s Hershberger Design land planning and landscape architecture firm. “Native landscaping was a hard sell. Now clients come to us asking for more native elements both because they like the look and are also more ecologically aware of their footprint. We love it.” A large part of why many of us move here is because of the landscape. But it is only recently—Hershberger started noticing the trend around 2008—that we’re bringing the macro landscape to our own lawns. It’s not that manicured spaces are totally out. “We still do some traditional lawn-like spaces,” Hershberger says. “It’s that we’re doing them in a much more deliberate and defined way.” Just as homes themselves are becoming more efficient, so are the properties around them. “If there is a manicured area on a property, increasingly it is specifically programmed for something,” Hershberger 48

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

3 Creek Ranch, a 710-acre golf and lifestyle community five minutes from downtown, whose clubhouse is pictured above, was one of the first developments in the valley to use native and natural landscaping.

says. “We’re getting fewer and fewer clients looking for purposeless expanses.” Homeowners are looking for well-designed outdoor eating areas, areas for kids and grandkids to play, even outdoor “nooks” where they can sit and read, or relax. “Now there’s a reason for everything out there,” Hershberger says. Outside of the deliberate spaces, valley homeowners are increasingly going native—which isn’t as easy to do as you’d think. “Mother Nature is difficult to duplicate,” says Sean Macauley, owner of Jackson’s MountainScapes, Inc. “Sagebrush, which is, of course, somewhere on most lots in this valley, is very difficult to get to grow back. Planting four hundred trees and hundreds of flowers can be easier.” But Macauley is happy with the trend toward native vegetation. The goal of a five-acre project of his in 3 Creek was to get the site back to what it looked like before construction, even if planting an abundance of trees would have been easier. Preconstruction, the lot was sagebrush, rabbitbrush, and a variety of other grasses. In the mid-2000s, 3 Creek itself—710 stream-strewn acres only five minutes

from the Town Square—was one of the first communities to go for a natural, native plan. Developers approached Verdone Landscape Architects, the first landscape architecture firm in the valley (it opened in 1980), with the goal of creating a ranch golfing community that would not only be profitable, but also

Excellence from the American Planning Association, and the Excellence in Environmental Planning Award from the Western Planning Resources Board of Directors. Perhaps most tellingly, it passed through what is usually a contentious review process in one public hearing.

“We’re getting fewer and fewer clients looking for purposeless expanses. Now there’s a reason for everything out there.” environmentally sensitive. In a 2007 interview, Jim Verdone said, “At 3 Creek, not only were we able to address environmental constraints, but, in addressing them, made a much better development for both sides than we would have had we not been as vigilant.” The plan, which included 136 home sites, an eighteen-hole Rees Jones-designed golf course, clubhouse, fitness center, and private fly-fishing areas, won numerous environmental awards: the 2006 Land Stewardship Award from the Colorado Chapter of the American Society of Landscape Architects, an Award of

But a project need not be as big as 3 Creek to have a substantial environmental impact. “Almost every one of our large projects, and we have many over thirty-five acres, now includes habitat development,” Hershberger says. “Folks are interested in the development of wildlife habitat or keeping the habitat they have healthy.” A Hershberger project on Fall Creek Road in Wilson includes both significant wetlands and a major elk migration corridor. “We have to plan the driveway around both of those,” he says. Hershberger says much of this

115 E. Broadway • 307-733-7868 • www.willowcreekhf.com “Like” us on Facebook. SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

habitat work is “very subtle stuff. If someone were to walk through, they might not see that there’s been any manipulation. And that’s the point. Part of the new awareness we’re seeing in clients is that they want to enjoy the environment, not manipulate it.” Walking through the 1,106 acres of the Laurance S. Rockefeller Preserve in Grand Teton National Park, which Hershberger designed, you don’t feel that it has been landscaped. “The most important thing about that project— and really, most projects—was to be disciplined not to put too much out there. There’s got to be a lot of editing. It’s not just thinking about where things should be, but also where they should not be,” he says. And with the trend toward more native vegetation, of course it’s also what they should be. Because of our harsh climate, we have a fairly limited native palette. “But that doesn’t mean it can’t be interesting,” Hershberger says. He recommends playing with textures. “You can emphasize that as much as you can color.” At his own home on Henry’s Road, Hershberger uses different grasses that are varying lengths. “It’s not as highmaintenance as a perennial ornamental garden, and I think it looks more at

Defensible Space

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Hershberger Design says most of its clients today are asking for purposeful landscapes, like these raised, drip-irrigated vegetable garden boxes.

home in the Wyoming landscape. It’s not as in-your-face.” You don’t just have to plant native species. Teton County Library’s new landscaping, which Hershberger designed, includes an undulating willow

fence. “We had to keep kids contained and came up with this playful element of a fence that rolls with the topography,” Hershberger says. “Willows are common in the landscape here, and we used them in a fun way.” JH

In July 2001, thirty-seven firefighting aircraft and more than 1,200 wildland firefighters from eleven states and a dozen government agencies managed to keep the Green Knoll Fire from destroying any homes in the hills south of Wilson. Last summer, the Horsethief Canyon Fire had areas of East Jackson ready to evacuate. No homes were lost in either blaze, but really, it was a matter of luck, and also due to the dedication and skill of the firefighting crews. Defensible space is a natural and landscaped area around a structure that has been purposefully designed and maintained to reduce fire danger. Defensible space not only reduces the risk that fire will spread from the surroundings to structures, but also provides firefighters access and a safer area to defend structures from. Most fire agencies, including those in Teton County that protect the valley’s rural areas, recommend defensible space to extend for one hundred feet in all directions. This doesn’t mean the area need be devoid of vegetation, but that plants and trees be spaced, pruned, irrigated, and trimmed to minimize potential fuel mass. “A lot of folks aren’t focused on fire until there’s one coming down the hill,” says Harry Statter, who founded Firewise Landscapes Inc. in Jackson a decade ago. “But there is a greater awareness of it now. Fire seems to constantly be in the news, and the news is so in-your-face that it’s more difficult to ignore now.” Since Statter founded Firewise, the company has consulted on and implemented plans for more than fifty thousand acres in the Mountain West. “Every project we do now has defensible space considerations built into it,” Hershberger says. “We’ve been doing it for a long time, but it’s really been in the last two years that it has become a formalized process with the county.” Of course, not all spaces are created equal. “If you’re in town, it’s not as big of a deal. Outside of town is a different story.”

Photographer : Matthew Millman

clbarchitects.com

jackson,wy

Inspired by Place

Special Interest Feature

Peak Properties T

he factor that makes the Jackson Hole real estate market so unusual is the relative scarcity of private land. Ninetyseven percent of Teton County, Wyoming, is publicly owned—either national park, national forest, or wildlife refuge. This computes to just 75,000 privately held acres in a county spanning 2.5 million acres. The guaranteed open spaces and unobstructed views these surrounding public lands afford make the remaining private land a real treasure. Add the abundance of recreational opportunities found in and around the valley, and the quality of life one can enjoy in Jackson Hole is simply unbeatable. Moreover, many of the properties featured here are secluded, scenic retreats located in the midst of prime wildlife habitat. Most existing and prospective property owners in Jackson Hole cherish this notion, and serve—or will serve—as stewards of nature. One cannot put a dollar value on waking to the Teton skyline, skiing home for lunch, or listening to a trout stream gurgling through the backyard. In Jackson Hole, “living with nature” is not a fleeting, vicarious experience a person has while watching TV. Here it’s a fact of life, and we wouldn’t have it any other way.

Wilson Meadows Contemporary

Mountain Sanctuary at JH Golf & Tennis

Just a block from the Wilson School, this newly built 4700 sqft open floor-plan home sits on .79 acres with live water and a view of the Tetons, Sleeping Indian and Glory Bowl. With 5 bedrooms and 5.5 baths, this property is perfect for entertaining with upstairs and downstairs living spaces, second floor TimberTech decks and finished patios surrounded by mature landscaping and views of the trout-filled stream. Additional features include a detached mother-in-law suite that can accommodate an office, guests or caretakers.

You will be hard pressed to find a more tastefully built and well thought out home. Set amongst towering cottonwoods the home has a very private setting yet is right off the 8th fairway of Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis. Dramatic mountain views are found in almost every window. A wonderful interplay of woods, stone, and tiles define the interior while the weathered grey snow fence exterior lends a timeless feel. Plans for a guest home are available.

Greg Prugh, Broker Prugh Real Estate 307.413.2468 g@prugh.com prugh.com 52

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The Spackmans – Dave and Brandon JH Sotheby’s International Realty 307.739.8132 www.SpackmansInJH.com

Picturesque Privacy South of Jackson

Rustic HHR Ranches Home

Nestled amongst the pines, Martin Creek flows through the lot where this four bedroom home is situated on 0.84 acres just 16 miles south of Jackson. Nearly five miles of Snake River frontage is available for owner use as part of the award winning golf development. This 5065 sf residence features a bonus bedroom over the garage, a wonderful great room with two story windows, stone fireplace, and a large deck with views of the surrounding National Forest. MLS#13-181. $2,850,000.

Set on 3.5 nicely landscaped acres in HHR Ranches, with two ponds and bordering conservation land, this elegant home with rustic, Trestlewood siding enjoys lovely Teton and Sleeping Indian views. Abundant windows, cathedral ceilings and an open floor plan create a bright interior complemented by quality finishes including hardwood floors, granite counter tops and cherry cabinetry. The home includes a main floor master, 4 upstairs bedrooms with Jack-and-Jill baths, and a separate guest apartment over the oversized 3 stall garage. SIR 4396187. $3,495,000

LintonBingle, Associate Brokers Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates, 307.732.7518 LintonBingle@gmail.com

Tom Evans, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty, 307.739.8149 Tom.Evans@jhsir.com www.TomEvansRealEstate.com

TETON SPRINGS GOLF AND CASTINGS CLUB

Unique Homesite at Shooting Star™

Quality throughout this 3,196 sq ft custom home. Main level has living area with fireplace, a chef kitchen, hickory hardwood floors, lovely master suite with small wet bar, large laundry & mud room. Lower level boasts two more spacious bedroomsuites, great game/family room, another fireplace & large, custom bar area. Sits on .50 acre landscaped lot with golf course and creek views from upper deck or lower patio with hot tub. $894,600.

This 1.3 acre homesite is the only remaining lot at Shooting Star™ that is situated adjacent to the Tom Fazio deigned core golf course, which was recently ranked 4th on Golfweek‘s list of 100 Best Residential Courses. Enjoy protected views south over the 7th hole towards Wolf Mountain as well as spectacular views to the north to Rendezvous Mountain. World class clubhouse amenities include an outdoor pool, two Jacuzzis, fine dining, spa services, fitness, golf, ski valet, and shuttle service to the slopes. www.shootingstarjh.com

Teton Valley Realty Mark Rockefeller 208.351.1411 mark@tetonvalleyrealty.com

John Resor, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty 307.739.8062, john.resor@jhsir.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Contemporary Log Home in Wilson

HENDERSON CANYON VICTOR ID

Expansive views of the Teton Range and Wilson Faces abound from this contemporary log home and guest cabin on over 3 acres in Wilson. This fabulous 4 bedroom house features an open floor plan and includes a separate master suite and living area. Remodeled with newly appointed bathrooms and a true cook's kitchen, the home is at once charmingly rustic and distinctively modern. The beautifully landscaped exterior lawn and pond retains adequate space for 2 horses.

Exclusive once in a lifetime opportunity! Rocky Creek Ranch, west side of Teton Valley, joins National Forest. 66 acres, 4 deeded wooded Teton view homesites. Quality improvements include 4329 SF barn with guest quarters above, garages, stocked pond, heated paddle tennis court â&#x20AC;&#x201C; warming cabin, regulation tennis court, trap shooting deck, hilltop 1918 SF guest house, roads, meandering trails, fencing. Structures are fully furnished, tractor & all recreational equipment included. $2,450,000.

Mercedes Huff, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Sothebyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s International Realty, 307.739.8135 mercedeshuff.com, Mercedes.Huff@jhsir.com

Teton Valley Realty Tayson Rockefeller, 208.709.1333 Mark Rockefeller, 208.351.1411 tayson@tetonvalleyrealty.com mark@tetonvalleyrealty.com

Daisy Springs Ranch

Adjacent to Pond and Stream

Daisy Springs Ranch is located 35 miles south of Jackson in Bondurant. The ranch has 73 acres with great recreational and agricultural components including 80 tons of hay production. There are year-round live-water springs and the Hoback River is just steps away on Forest Service lands. Gorgeous mountain views in all directions and incredible wildlife. There is an old homestead cabin, hay shed and modest home. Large ranches and Forest Service lands surround this property. Easy year-round access.

A beautiful lot bordered by a pond and seasonal stream, with unobstructed views of the mountains to the west, as well as views of the Gros Ventre Mtns in the east. Located within the secluded western portion of Shooting Star's residential area. Local amenities include the world renown golf course designed by Tom Fazio, a beautifully designed and complete clubhouse, and easy access to world class skiing at the adjacent Jackson Hole Ski Resort. $2,300,000. #4420621.

Steve Robertson & Melissa Harrison, Asso. Brokers Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates, 307.690.0086 MelissaHarrison@jhrea.com 54

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Daniel T. Willert, Associate Broker Sothebys International Realty, 208.313.3334 185 W. Broadway, Jackson Hole, WY dan.willert@jhsir.com, www.jhsir.com

You Could Own This View

The Walton Ranch

Set along the legendary Snake River in the shadow of the magnificent Grand Teton, this legacy property is minutes from downtown Jackson, world-class skiing and air service. The 1,848-acre ranch is an operating cattle ranch with its own resident elk herd and fishing access along three miles of the Snake River. Surrounded by natural beauty and close to Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks, the Walton Ranch offers a rare opportunity to own a sizable ranch in one of the most sought-after locations in the world. $68,700,000.

Daniel T. Willert, Associate Broker Sothebys International Realty, 208.313.3334 185 W. Broadway, Jackson Hole, WY dan.willert@jhsir.com, www.jhsir.com

Ranch Marketing Associates Ron Morris 970.535.0881 and Billy Long 970.927.3850 ron@rmabrokers.com, billy@rmabrokers.com

Beaverhead Ranch - Pinedale, WY

Horseshoe Bend Ranch - Ririe, ID

The Beaverhead Ranch, just over an hour from Jackson, is the quintessential ranch retreat adjoining national forest with creeks, a five-acre pond, trees and tremendous views. Just over 700 deeded acres with a modern, 5,000+/- sq. ft. log lodge and shop, the property is home to abundant wildlife and scenery. Peace and quiet prevail and recreational pursuits are as vast as the big Wyoming sky. Whether one prefers a hike or horseback ride, snowmobiling or an ATV, the landscape is well suited for all. Reduced to $3,850,000.

Horseshoe Bend Ranch is comprised of 77.46 deeded acres located in Ririe, Idaho, along the banks of the South Fork of the Snake River. The ranch is conveniently located 20 minutes from downtown Idaho Falls. This property is uniquely situated at the mouth of the South Fork Canyon atop a bench with dramatic views overlooking the river bottom filled with mature cottonwood trees and various red rock outcroppings. Historically, this ranch has been used as an agricultural operation with excellent water rights. Offering price is $1,250,000.

Hall and Hall, John Pierce www.hallandhall.com, 307.733.0989 pierce@hallandhall.com

Tate Jarry, Broker, Live Water Properties 866.734.6100, 307.413.3582 tate@livewaterproperties.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Solitude On The Snake

Jackson Development Opportunity

Tremendous privacy on the Snake River, beneath the Grand Teton Mountain range, over 5,000 sq ft designed to bring the outdoors in. Family area, living, formal dining, large office, abundant outdoor living areas and a 3 car garage. Solitude subdivision was designed to embrace existing wildlife and their habitat for sustainability. Local elk, moose, & more have made Solitude their preferred residence. This is your opportunity to join them.

Jackson Hole's newest Planned Mixed Use Development project is located just two blocks west of the Town Square. This fully approved four story PMUD incorporates over 26,000 square feet of retail, office and dining space as well as luxury condominiums and an underground parking garage. Presently on the premises, Miller Park Lodge is a charming fifteen bedroom inn. This turn key, income producing property is located next to Miller Park, a local events favorite.

David A. NeVille, Associate Broker Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates davidneville@jhrea.com, 307.690.3209

Kenneth Colston & Andrew Ellett, Sales Associates Jackson Hole Real Estate Company 307.733.4969, www.jacksonholerr.com ken@jacksonholerr.com,andrew@jacksonholerr.com

Tucker Ranch

Spectacular Views at Teton Pines

Between Tucker Lake and the Snake River with dramatic Teton views, this exquisite home is a masterpiece of reclaimed beams, barnwood, and stone with top-of-the-line finishes. The patio, by the private pond and it’s waterfalls, offer an outdoor fireplace and built-in grill. A spacious master suite graces the first floor; upstairs boasts four guest suites. SF594BJH $12,900,000

Located on the 18th tee of the Teton Pines Country Club this spectacular residence captures phenomenal views of the Grand Teton and JH Mountain Resort. Reclaimed barn-wood, pickle barrel floors, stone and granite are used throughout this rustic yet refined mountain home. Expansive windows in the great room and dining room take in the magnificent views across the pond and give access to the stone patio. A large master suite, 2 JR suites, 2 guest bedrooms, game room, den/office and TV room give you all the space you need for your family and visitors! $5M

Doug Herrick, Associate Broker/Owner Brokers of Jackson Hole LLC 307.413.8899, dherrick@jhrealestate.com

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Jocelyn Emery, Sales Associate JH Real Estate Associates, 307.690.7138 jocelynemery@jhrea.com, jhrealestatesearch@jhrea.com

Jackson Hole Ranch Estate

Timeless Elegance in John Dodge

Private ranch retreat with 6000+ square feet of living and 17,000+ square feet of barn, out-building and storage for RV, boat, trailer, equipment storage and/or horse facility. Ideally located next to national forest, providing trails for year-round recreation: hiking, horseback riding and snowmobiling, as well as hunting and fishing. Log home and 4 guest cabins make this a perfect family or corporate retreat in a private and serene setting, and located less than 30 minutes from the town of Jackson. Photos at www.JHRanchEstate.com $4,995,000

Convenient to the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and with private access to the Snake River, John Dodge is often cited as the perfect location for the Jackson Hole lifestyle. This timeless, 5-bedroom home offers a floor plan of 4,334 sq.ft. -- including a guest suite above the 3-car garage -- with a well-appointed kitchen, wood-burning fireplace in the living room, and an attached greenhouse. The heavily-wooded, 3-acre setting affords seclusion to enjoy views of the Tetons and the surrounding mountain ranges. Moose, elk and other wildlife frequent the property.

Teri McCarthy, Broker/Owner Jackson Wyoming Real Estate, 307.690.6906 wyoteri@gmail.com JacksonWyomingRealEstate.com

Brett McPeak, Broker/Owner RE/MAX Obsidian Real Estate 307.690.4335, bmcpeak@wyoming.com

Rare Wilson Meadows Offering

Just Released: Bar BC East

Sitting on 1.34 acres, this beautiful home in Wilson Meadows boasts a chef's kitchen, 4 spacious bedrooms, 4.5 bathrooms, an office and guest apartment. Located less than a mile from Downtown Wilson, adjacent to the bike paths and a short walk to the desirable Wilson School, the house is a must see for those looking for the tranquility of Wilson. Grand Teton views, an over sized 3 car garage, two seasonal streams, and a wonderful large yard compliment this fantastic Wilson home. Price available upon request.

Combining vital wildlife habitat, vibrant forests and dramatic views, these never before released parcels have views of the Teton Range, direct access into Grand Teton National Park and Gros Ventre River frontage. These sites will forever maintain the western spirit and open spaces that characterize the Rocky Mountain West. www.barbcranch.com.

Jack Stout, Brokers of Jackson Hole jstout@jhrealestate.com, 307.413.7118

Tom Evans, 307.739.8149, Tom.Evans@jhsir.com Dave Spackman, 307.739.8132, Dave.Spackman@jhsir.com Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty

SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Welcome to

YELLOWSTONE

NATIONAL PARK Our itty-bitty guide tO a very big park Early whitE visitors referred to yellowstone—although it wasn’t yet yellowstone, of course, but merely the territories of wyoming, idaho, and Montana—as “wonderland.” returning East with their tales of water and steam erupting from the ground, abundant wildlife, towering waterfalls, and bubbling mudpots, no one believed them. that changed in 1871 with the report of the hayden survey, which, thanks to william henry Jackson and thomas Moran, included the first photographs and paintings of this area’s otherworldly phenomena. less than a year later, an act of Congress established yellowstone as a national park. it wasn’t just the world’s first national park in name, but also in purpose. Never before had land been expressly put aside “for the benefit and enjoyment of the people.” Go ahead and enjoy.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

If you’ve ever been stopped in your car tracks by a bison jam in the Hayden Valley, or vied for a ringside seat among the swarm of those awaiting an Old Faithful eruption, you may have considered Yellowstone the most crowded place on Earth. But if you’ve traveled a ways off the pavement, you also know how rapidly the throngs thin out—and how quickly the world’s first national park can feel very wild. And you needn’t shoulder a fifty-pound pack and hike through miles of wilderness to escape Yellowstone’s masses. Following are a few easy-to-access places where you can find a little solace and solitude in a park that endured some 3.5 million visitors last year.

T So little visited is the Bechler in the park’s southwest corner that it isn’t even acknowledged as an entrance on official park maps. It’s also known as Cascade Corner, due to the proliferation of waterfalls rumbling and tumbling off the rims of the Pitchstone and Madison plateaus. Cave Falls, one of the most impressive, can be driven to.

By Mountain Bike m Bunsen Peak Road is a five-mile oneway ride, or ten-mile out-and-back, over a decommissioned gravel road. It also offers access to the Osprey Falls hiking trail (bikes not permitted). Be forewarned: The times I’ve done this, the surroundings felt very bear-y. m A feature no doubt adored by Texas

geyser gazers, the twelve-foot-high Lone Star Geyser sprouts a spout forty feet high every three hours or so. The riding is over an old gravelsurfaced roadbed. Five miles out and back.

By Car T The one-way, six-mile-long gravel

By Foot ] A rather long, decidedly steep climb

Blacktail Plateau Drive dishes up a July wildflower display that’s out of this world—as are the views, toward drive’s end, of the gash made by the Yellowstone River and the mountains surrounding it.

is required to get to Specimen Ridge’s world-renowned petrified trees. Some are huge, said to be five hundred years old when they were buried alive by volcanic ash millions of years ago.

] Trout Lake is a short hike—a quarter mile up, half mile around, and quarter mile down—that’s long on scenic rewards. Watch for otters in the vicinity of the plank bridge crossing the outlet stream. ] Follow the Storm Point Nature Trail past Indian Pond and continue, first through meadow then through forest, to the shores of Yellowstone Lake. Now, spread your blanket and your picnic (carefully avoiding the abundant piles of bison dung). Satiated, you can continue about a mile out to Storm Point, known for its whistling marmots and watery whitecaps.

By Boat S At Bridge Bay, you can book a scenic cruise or fishing charter, or even rent a rowboat or outboard to try your hand at navigating Yellowstone Lake’s often boisterous (and always cold) waters.

Outside Yellowstone Idaho’s Harriman State Park is like a miniature version of Yellowstone, minus the crowds. Fish the worldfamous Henry’s Fork, then overnight in a rental yurt.

— Mike McCoy

It used to be that the average Yellowstone visitor spent 5 days exploring the park’s 2.2 million acres. Today, the average visitor spends 1.25 days in the park.

BRADLY J. BONER

Your Own Private Yellowstone—In Just an Hour or Two

Cave Falls is an oft-overlooked gem on the Bechler River tucked in the southwest corner of Yellowstone National Park. The falls are accessed by Highway 47, heading east from Ashton, Idaho.

SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

GUIDE TO YELLOWSTONE

Yellowstone For Families Next to Disney World, Yellowstone might be the quintessential American family vacation. It can also be the quintessential family vacation disaster, complete with traffic jams, overbooked inns and motels, scarce cellphone reception, and lodging without televisions. Since we don’t like family vacation meltdowns, here are some tips to avert them.

Play cowboy, or at least eat like one Kids love the Old West Dinner Cookout’s covered wagon ride into Pleasant Valley from the rustic Roosevelt Lodge. Adults love the baked beans. Everyone loves the views. In the late 1800s, Pleasant Valley was home to one of the park’s first lodging facilities, Yancy’s Pleasant Valley Hotel. Yancy and his hotel are long gone, but the pleasantness of the valley remains. Especially when enjoyed over a heaping plate of steak, baked beans, coleslaw, potato salad, and corn bread muffins around an open campfire. After dinner, the entertainment comes out: singing cowboys and wranglers telling tall tales. Note: This

is quite popular and advance reservations are required. Starts at $56 for adults and $47 for kids; 866/439-7375

Take a soak Yellowstone hotels, lodges, and campgrounds don’t do swimming pools. But that’s fine when there’s the Boiling River, a hot spring only a half-mile hike from a parking area. Between Mammoth and Gardiner, the Boiling River, which lives up to its name, flows into the colder Gardner River. The hot and cold water mix in rocky pools along the river’s edge. Don’t relax so much you ignore

the scenery: Rocky Mountain juniper, cottonwood, Douglas fir, and willows grow in the area, while eagles and osprey often do flybys. (The parking area for the Boiling River is just south of the 45th Parallel Bridge and sign between Mammoth and the town of Gardiner.) www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/nmammoth.htm

Hip and helpful Since 2010, both Old Faithful and Canyon have gotten new visitor centers. Both have made great efforts to engage kids with interactive exhibits. Each also

DARYL HUNTER

Between Mammoth and Gardiner, the Boiling River flows into the colder Gardner River and makes for a family friendly soak. Bathing suits are required, and alcohol is not allowed. The pools are closed in the springtime due to hazardous high water; they usually reopen by midsummer.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

Snack time Wilcoxson’s ice cream has been sold in Yellowstone since about the 1930s when it came packed in cork insulation to keep it from melting before the days of refrigerated trucks. Based in Livingston, Montana, Wilcoxson’s has been making ice cream since 1912.

Science is awesome Driving from Tower Junction to Silver Gate, you’ll pass through the Lamar Valley and a place locals call “Little America.” Just east of the Yellowstone River, Little America was so named from a large pothole pond whose shape

generally looks like the U.S. At the western end of the Lamar Valley, Little America is a great place to catch a glimpse of a wolf. Kids love exploring the glacial remains here, too. Impress them by sharing that the large limestone boulders carried and then deposited in these flats by glacial ice are called glacial erratics, from the Latin errare, which means “to wander or roam.” A glacial erratic in Alberta, Canada, weighs 17,000 tons; none here are that large.

Eat up! In the undiscovered town of Silver Gate, Montana, just outside Yellowstone’s Northeast Entrance, the Log Cabin Cafe serves a scrumptious breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Nearby, you can stay at the Lamar Valley Cabins, which offer 360-degree views of towering mountains and a spotting scope in the yard to observe mountain goats and bighorn sheep. www.thelogcabincafe.com; Cabins start at $170/ night; site.lamarvalleycabin.com — REBECCA HUNTINGTON and JH MAG STAFF

There are nine museums and visitor centers in Yellowstone, including the Museum of the National Park Ranger at Norris Geyser Basin (pictured above). Exhibits include the evolution of the ranger uniform and also the museum itself. It’s a rebuilt log cabin that re-creates a 1908 Army outpost.

COURTESY LEO BOUDREAU

highlights a specific theme: Old Faithful does geysers, while Canyon specializes in volcanology and seismology. The latter’s exhibits include one of the world’s largest lava lamps. Mesmerizing to watch, the lava lamp isn’t just for show: Placards reveal it illustrates how magma rises to the Earth’s surface. (Spoiler alert: It’s heat convection, just one of the geologic forces that shapes Yellowstone.) Free

SNAKE RIVER GRILL 307-733-0557 SNAKERIVERGRILL.COM

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS ON THE TOWN SQUARE

SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

GUIDE TO YELLOWSTONE

* Maura Longden at the Thorofare Patrol Cabin in Yellowstone National Park

coURTESy MAURA LoNGDEN

in the 1880s, members of the U.s. army let old Faithful wash their clothes. they’d put them inside the geyser pre-eruption. when it erupted, their clothes would come flying out, perfectly steam-cleaned.

Chat With a Flat Hat: Maura Longden DurING Her THIrTy-THree years with the National Park Service, retired ranger Maura Longden did it all—backcountry ranger, search and rescue ranger, district ranger, chief ranger, and winter ranger. While patrolling on horseback, Longden sat for countless photos taken by tourists enamored with the iconic image of a park ranger. Although she worked in more than a dozen national parks, she kept returning to Yellowstone, where she says “rangering” remains steeped in the old ways. During her final years with the Park Service, she served as Yellowstone’s Lake District Ranger and Sylvan Pass Avalanche Program Director. She and her husband, Rich Baerwald (now a climbing ranger in Grand Teton National Park), “wintered in” in the interior of Yellowstone, where both worked as park avalanche forecasters. Even though she has hung up her flat hat, the wilderness still calls, and Longden continues to venture into the wild—just without the uniform. She currently works to conserve wild places as the new Board Chair for the nonprofit Society for Wilderness Stewardship. We got her to sit still for a few minutes to talk, though. Q: what do you think about the national Park service uniform? a: I’ll never forget seeing my first ranger in a flat hat. It made a vivid impression. I think I already knew I wanted to be a ranger, but that cemented it. When you are on a horse, it draws visitors to you. A ranger on horseback is a pretty powerful tool and powerful message. Q: what makes yellowstone special? a: For me, that’s where my traditional skills came from, where I learned to pack horses, use a crosscut saw, travel, and camp in bear country—just the whole gamut of rangering. 62

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Q: did you have a favorite visitor encounter? a: One fall, we were closing the roads in Yellowstone due to snow. I stopped my patrol car, stepped out, peered down an embankment, and just happened to see a grizzly bear. Then a car drove by, and I noticed that it was packed with kids. I thought, “Those kids need to see a grizzly.” I got back in my car and caught up with them. They followed me back. I told them to stay in the car. When we drove within sight of the bear, it seemed like there were ten noses planted against the window. There you are doing your job and thinking this is what this family came for. I always

hoped as a ranger that, in some way, I helped visitors have the kind of experience that followed them home. Q: where should visitors take a hike? a: Get out of your car, and wander along the trails next to Yellowstone Lake. You have this beautiful experience of the lake being a threshold to wilderness. Looking across the lake, you are looking toward the most remote backcountry in the Lower 48. But be bearaware because you are sharing the walkways and corridors with bears. Q: as a law enforcement ranger, did you nab any poachers during boundary patrols? a: I tried to bust poachers, and I made some cases. They’re hard to get. Q: did you have a favorite horse? a: I liked this little horse named Chester when I was a backcountry ranger on Yellowstone’s South District [200205]. I would be in the cabin and hear him gallop past and then turn around and run back to the pasture. A lot of backcountry rangers don’t like a horse that won’t settle down, but Chester was young and the world was his oyster. I liked his curious nature. I liked riding him. I understood him. — REBEccA HUNTiNGToN

Pat Flynn

Rick Armstrong

Jackson's Largest Contemporary Gallery ~ 60 E Broadway ~ On the Town Square ~ Upstairs ~ Next to Snake River Grill www.raregalleryjacksonhole.com 307-733-8726 www.rarejacksonholerealestate.com

GUIDE TO YELLOWSTONE

Out There The lake, at first, was ordinary, albeit an undeniable reprieve from an arduous day that included climbing two thousand feet in about two miles, my group hefting and heaving our bodies over an endless sea of downed trees with no trail in sight. But sitting on the shores of Mirror Lake on the Mirror Plateau in Yellowstone National Park, my backpack flung aside and my breathing slowing, I became aware of the quiet of the woods. This quiet wasn’t silence, but the rustle of wind in tree boughs and the crackle of rodents running on bark. In a national park that gets more than three million annual visitors, my group of three was completely alone. Or maybe not completely. Across the lake, a large bison lumbered over logs and froze when it saw us. Instead of continuing on its way like the bison lining park roads, it turned and bolted; this guy was not accustomed to humans. Until this trip, when I thought of Yellowstone I saw throngs of tourists crowding around geysers and thermal features, and hanging from car windows to photograph roadside wildlife. Solitude did not come to mind. But anyone who’s braved Yellowstone’s backcountry knows there’s another side to this park. The Mirror Plateau is on the other side of the other side.

The Mirror Plateau, which refers both to a physical plateau as well as the bear management area it falls within, is one of the most remote places in the park. Only two campsites mar the plateau’s wildness, one near the headwaters of Opal Creek and the other near Pelican Creek. Neither is marked on maps. With no trails to ease navigation and a rugged approach, few are drawn to investigating the area. Those that are intrigued must secure one of fourteen overnight permits; travel into the area is only permitted between July 1 and August 15. No other place in the park has such a small window for travel and such stringent restriction on permits; together, these are meant to reduce impact in an area known for its high density of bears. Our four-day trip covered about thirty-eight miles and began in the Lamar Valley, traversed the plateau itself and ended at Artist Point, on the south rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. We passed animal skeletons and skulls, but saw little wildlife besides deer, chipmunks, and our timid bison. Other than a backcountry campsite left so clean it was hard to determine when it was last used, we saw no signs of human existence until we were only a few miles away from the end of our trip.

Yellowstone is the best place in the world to view wild wolves. Approximately 20,000 people see a wolf in the park each year. It is estimated that more than 250,000 different people have seen wolves in the park since their restoration in 1995.

“I wouldn’t call the Mirror Plateau very well explored today,” says park historian Lee Whittlesey. The Cook-Folsom-Peterson party traveled the Mirror Plateau in 1869 and were the first documented explorers of the area. They were followed by the 1871 Hayden Survey. Leaving the maintained trail our second day, we didn’t know what we were getting into, but it looked like an obstacle course of downed trees in varying states of decay and felled by fires, beetles, and/or weather. That day, log hopping lost any youthful pleasure it once possessed. With skylines of treecovered peaks all around, we found the Yellowstone that once was. Exhausted and aching from the push up to the plateau, sitting next to Mirror Lake was like being let into a secret world. Nature might have changed the terrain, but the fact it remained untrammeled and unchanged by human touch gave the sense we were seeing what those early explorers saw. A sense of adventure and wildness engulfed us. Turns out, the lake wasn’t ordinary at all.

BRADLY J. BONER

— Kelsey Dayton

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Mirror Lake on Yellowstone’s Mirror Plateau remains one of the park’s most remote locations, almost four miles from an established trail and more than twelve miles from the nearest trailhead (in Lamar Valley). First called Divide Lake for its location on the divide between the Yellowstone and Lamar rivers, it was renamed Mirror Lake in 1878 for its propensity to reflect its surroundings.

“Monarch” by local artist, Carrie Wild. Acrylic on Canvas. 48" x 48"

“Eye Bald” by local artist, Deb Fox. Original Watercolor. 39" x 31"

“Heading Home at Sunset” by Pat Clayton Oil on Canvas 10" x 30"

Text “GALLERY” to 71441 to receive gallery news, offers and events. Std msg & data rates may apply

130 W. Broadway • Jackson, WY 83001 • 307.201.1172 • www.grandtetongallery.com • info@grandtetongallery.com

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

to do in tHe area

The Lake Queen departs Bridge Bay Marina on one-hour guided tours of Yellowstone Lake, where you might spot eagles, osprey, and, on shore, elk and bison.

Take an early morning barefoot walk along the beach, but be mindful of bears.

A short drive away, a six-foot-wide stream of hot water from the Boiling River plunges over travertine rocks into a 150-foot-long band of thermal soaking pools along the Gardner River.

The Lamar Valley is one of the best spots in the park for wolf watching; look for people with spotting scopes.

It’s a half-mile hike from cabin P26 to Grand View, which offers a particularly grand view of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone in the morning.

Grab an espresso from the secondfloor coffee bar before wandering out to the rooftop deck to watch Old Faithful erupt.

Rent a bike from the lodge and ride the two-mile bike trail from Daisy Geyser to the highway and back.

In West Thumb Geyser Basin, hike to Fishing Cone, where early explorers could catch a trout, swing the pole around, dip it into this boiling pool, and cook the fish without taking it off the line.

It’s a six-mile round-trip hike from just behind the lodge to peaceful Mallard Lake.

lodGe

Lake Lodge Cabins

Lake Yellowstone Hotel & Cabins

Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel & Cabins

Roosevelt Lodge Cabins

Canyon Lodge & Cabins

Old Faithful Inn

Old Faithful Snow Lodge & Cabins

Grant Village

Old Faithful Lodge Cabins

Who cares? The dining room (and lobby) have great views of Old Faithful.

The Grant Village Dining Room serves elk sliders. Enough said.

Go for the bison short ribs in the Obsidian Dining Room.

Trout cakes with pumpkin seed pesto are delicious, but the signature dinner buffet is hard to pass up.

Sandwiches and signature burgers, wild game meatloaf, pork osso bucco—the menu here is inventive and delicious.

If you eat nothing else in the park, get the baked beans here. Also, the ribs fall off the bone.

Get past the dated teal color scheme and enjoy house-made fresh bread and a menu that highlights locally sourced ingredients.

Healthy meets tasty. Sides include bulgur wheat; the candied walnuts on the spinach salad might be the best thing ever.

The cafeteria here might be the most budgetfriendly option in the park. And it’s got great views of Yellowstone Lake.

eats

some are better than others, even if you’re just looking for lunch.

National Lampoon’s Vacation does Yellowstone

Utilitarian

Parkitecture meets practical

Proud grand dame

Jetsons do Yellowstone

Wonderfully rustic

Bustling, with both people and elk

Faded glory in the middle of a comeback

Family friendly summer camp

ViBe/deCor

Forgettable, but fine.

What rooms lack in personality, they make up for in serviceability.

Every room here has a mini fridge; Wi-Fi available for additional fee.

The best in the park. Room 150 in the Old House has a perfect view of Old Faithful.

The multiplex cabins here are a mish-mash, but are among the nicer rooms in the park.

One-room cabins with separate shared bathrooms. Cabin 111 has a creek flowing nearby.

Lodge rooms are highceilinged and roomy with unpredictable water temperatures; four cabins have six-person hot tubs.

The western wing was redone last winter (including wired Internet connections); the east wing still has listing floors and mauve carpeting.

A tent might be less musty than these cabins.

sleePs

Anywhere but next to the Old Faithful Inn, this lodge’s massive stone pillars and logs would be impressive.

The closest Yellowstone lodge to Grand Teton National Park.

Built in 1999, it’s the park’s newest lodge.

Where to start? A 76-foot tall lobby; knobbled pine beams; a fireplace and chimney made from 500 tons of rhyolite.

Canyon was Yellowstone’s largest “Mission 66 project,” a Federal plan to revitalize U.S. national parks between 1956 and 1966.

Some of the lodge’s original foundation was made from petrified wood; one corner remains and is exposed.

Elk right out the front door

Opened in 1891, it’s not only the oldest surviving lodge in Yellowstone, but also in any U.S. national park.

The expansive front porch is lined with rocking chairs.

ClaiM to FaMe

The Bed Brawl: An uncensored look at Yellowstone’s hotels, lodges, and inns

There’s often a line out the door for the soft-serve ice cream sold in the lobby; it’s worth the wait.

The Lake House’s decor is tired, but the views its tables have of the West Thumb of Yellowstone Lake are anything but. Lake House serves pub-style food.

This is one of the few places inside the park that rents bikes.

Anyone (who makes a reservation well in advance) can accompany the inn’s bellmen up to the crow’s nest to take the flags down every evening.

Canyon Visitor Education Center is the park’s newest visitor center; its movie, Yellowstone: Land to Life, teaches you about the park’s geology.

The Old West Dinner Cookout leaves from here; take a covered wagon or ride your own horse to an alfresco feast with singing cowboys.

U.S. Army soldiers were the park’s first staffers; the fort they lived at still stands, including seven sandstone buildings built in 1909 in the Colonial Revival style.

Most evenings, you can catch a string quartet and/or pianist playing in the lobby.

Anyone can relax in the overstuffed leather chairs in front of the lodge’s river-rock fireplace.

For non-Guests

Open May 17-Sept. 29; cabins between $69 and $115

Open May 24-Sept. 29; rooms $155

Open May 3-Oct. 20; rooms $239

Open May 10Oct. 13; rooms between $103 and $512

Open May 31Sept. 22; rates between $99 and $188

Open June 7-Sept. 2; cabins from $69-$115

Open May 3-Oct. 7; rates between $86 and $459

Open May 17-Sept. 29; rooms between $141 and $599

Open June 10Sept. 29, 2013; cabins range from $75-$188/ night

details

GUIDE TO YELLOWSTONE

Welcome

to the

Neighborhood Black bears, grizzlies, cougars, and wolves are all around, some in increasing numbers. How can we best coexist?

TIM McCLURE

BY DINA MISHEV WITH JAYME FEARY

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

ERE IT CAME, padding across the snow through the Indian Trails neighborhood about forty feet from James Peck’s house. A wolf, more yellow than white. It stopped and nervously looked around. Twenty feet behind followed another, black as coal. Peck watched the wolves through a window. “Two wolves walking through our yard. Those are wolves,” he said. His dog growled low and long. “Good boy, Otis,” Peck said. “So glad you weren’t outside.” The wolves hurried past the house and veered onto a plowed road. “There they go,” Peck said. “They’re heading up the street.” The black wolf loped off, the yellow one trailing. These wolves began traveling through residential areas regularly enough that officials with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS) decided the animals were losing their fear of humans, and agents euthanized them both. This dilemma is only one in a spate of recent conflicts between humans and predators in Jackson Hole. Last year, a cougar and her kittens were proactively relocated out of the Cache Creek area after attempts to haze them away were unsuccessful. “They were localized in a residential area and were very comfortable around people,” says Mike Boyce, Wyoming Game and Fish’s Jackson-based large carnivore biologist. “We erred on the side of safety—both for people and for the lion family.” A grizzly bear in Teton Valley was killed

OPPOSITE PAGE: A wolf walks in a field by the Indian Trails subdivision near Jackson Hole High School in January 2012. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service personnel trapped and killed the wolf because it had lost its fear of humans.

after it raided a farm, accessed a beehive, and killed two piglets. Another grizzly was put down after it tore into horse and utility trailers in Buffalo Valley. A wolf attacked and injured a dog south of Wilson, and a pack of wolves killed four dogs in Buffalo Valley. This past March, a mother cougar with two cubs killed a black Lab in a backyard north of Bar BC Ranch. “This is the first incident in the Jackson region that I’ve dealt with where a mountain lion killed a dog,” Boyce told the Jackson Hole News&Guide. “It has happened in other parts of the state.” BEFORE HOMESTEADERS ARRIVED in this valley in any significant numbers in the late 1800s, cougars, wolves, black bears, and grizzlies all lived in the area. But wolves didn’t last long. Considered pests, they were hunted to extinction in the valley by the early 1900s. By 1960, aside from a couple of hundred gray wolves living in the dense forests of northern Minnesota and an isolated population on Michigan’s Isle Royale, wolves were extirpated from the Lower 48—where they once ranged from coast to coast and had an estimated population of 250,000. Grizzlies, too, were hunted to the point where only a small population remained, deep inside the confines of Yellowstone National Park. By 1975, when grizzlies were listed as “threatened” under the Endangered Species Act, there were only an estimated 150 to 200 living in Yellowstone National Park. Grizzlies’ tenure on the endangered species list, which was lifted in 2007 and then reinstated in 2009, has done the species well. By 1997, there were an estimated 250 to 300 grizzlies in the twenty-million-acre Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE). Dr. Chris Servheen,

the Missoula, Montana-based grizzly bear recovery coordinator for USFWS, estimates that today there are between 600 and 700 grizzlies in the GYE. Grizzly distribution within the GYE has expanded alongside the population. Bears increased their range by 11 percent in the 1980s and an additional 34 percent during the 1990s. Grizzly bears continue to expand their range and currently occupy more than 8.5 million acres, including all of Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. In 1995 and 1996, 31 gray wolves were reintroduced in Yellowstone National Park. While the animals were released inside Yellowstone, no one expected them to keep to the park boundaries. In fact, one of the two litters born in 1995, just months after the first wolves were released, was born outside of the park, near Red Lodge, Montana. By 1999, a pack had moved into Grand Teton National Park. In 2002, the GYE wolf population was estimated to be 272 and included, for the first time, enough breeding pairs to exceed the minimum number for the species to be considered recovered. “Ever since then, the population has grown substantially,” says Mike Jimenez, USFWS Northern Rocky Mountain wolf management and science coordinator. According to Wyoming Game and Fish, at the end of December 2011, there were an estimated 328 wolves in the state, with 48 packs and 27 breeding pairs. This included 224 wolves, 36 packs, and 19 breeding pairs outside Yellowstone National Park. Despite the obvious success of the recovery, pressure from hunting groups, and numerous lawsuits, Wyoming wolves were protected as an endangered species until October 1, 2012. (Gray wolves in SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Washington, and Utah were delisted in May 2011.) Until the wolves’ protection ended, they could not be hunted, which meant there was no way for USFWS to manage Wyoming’s population. State regulations now allow trophy hunting for wolves in a zone around Yellowstone National Park, while in the rest of the state, they’re classified as “predators” and can be shot on sight at any time.

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A two-year-old male black bear wakes up from tranquilizers after being captured by Wyoming Game and Fish officials. The bear was frequenting homes on West Gros Ventre Butte between Jackson and Wilson and was relocated to an area north of Grand Teton National Park.

1991 or 1992, people started seeing one or two grizzlies a year in GTNP’s remote northern reaches, says GTNP senior wildlife biologist Dr. Steve Cain. “I saw one myself around then, up in Owl Canyon.” Today, Cain says of the leading, bleeding edge, “We’re right there. It has almost circled us so that the line has come down to Jackson Hole and is in the process of pushing through. There

conflicts in areas where there haven’t been before,” Cain says. “The Town of Jackson already has a regular presence of black bears and conflicts with black bears. What we will start seeing in the future is that more of those conflicts will involve grizzly bears.” Grizzly bear conflicts differ from black bear conflicts because grizzlies are more likely to cause injuries to humans than black bears. “Generally with grizzlies,

Until the wolves’ protection ended, they could not be hunted. DR. SERVHEEN COINED the phrase “the leading, bleeding edge.” “Leading edge” describes the frontlines of grizzly bear habitat. It’s “bleeding” because at the leading edges, where neither the brown bears nor humans have experience with each other, the two species can cause each other injury and death. For decades, the leading, bleeding edge remained well north of the valley’s population centers. “There were no grizzlies in Grand Teton when they were listed,” Servheen says. Around 70

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are grizzly bears in the woods all around Jackson, including reproductive females. They’re here.” According to the most recent numbers, though, the growth rate of the area’s grizzly population has “leveled off to approximately zero,” Cain says. “The take-home message is that the growth rate has declined and the population is basically holding their own. But their range is still increasing.” So what does this mean? “I don’t think we’re going to see a change in the nature of conflicts, but there will be

conflicts escalate to a level of concern,” Cain says. While the grizzly population has stabilized, the valley’s black bear population is “robust and increasing. There are a lot of black bears all over the region.” Wyoming Game and Fish does not do any black bear population estimates, though, so no one is sure of their numbers. In his capacity as a Game and Fish officer, Boyce answers calls related to all of the valley’s large predators. Last

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year, he responded to 144 verifiable conflicts between humans and black bears, grizzlies, cougars, or wolves. The majority of conflicts were between humans and bears. A “verifiable conflict” is one in which an animal causes property damage, receives an unnatural food reward, kills livestock or a pet, or causes injury to a human. “It’s not a bear walking through someone’s yard,” Boyce says. One hundred forty-four conflicts in a year is “significantly higher than usual,” Boyce says. “There’s a direct correlation between the quality and abundance of natural foods and the number of conflicts I handle. Last year was a very hot, dry year. The berry crop, a significant food source for bears, pretty much failed.” The bear conflicts Boyce responded to resulted in his capturing 28 black bears and 10 grizzly bears. Twenty-eight were relocated and 10 (7 black bears and 3 grizzlies) were killed. “There’s no doubt it’s bears that there are the greatest potential for conflicts with,” Boyce says. “For the most part, wolves don’t pose a significant human safety threat. Cats are the same.” “I really believe the number of conflicts between humans and bears depends on the conditions of natural foods,” Boyce says. “When we have abundant precipitation I don’t get many calls about conflicts, regardless of bear population.” But, since natural food 72

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supplies depend on Mother Nature’s whims, which can’t be predicted far in advance, we should always be prepared. TWO CANADIAN CITIES—Canmore, Alberta; and Whistler, British Columbia— have a history of black bear/human issues that make Boyce’s 144 conflicts last

Wildlife managers captured this female mountain lion and her two kittens in January 2012 after she spent a week around residential areas at the mouth of Cache Creek Canyon near east Jackson.

entice them to come into town.” A certain number of backcountry conflicts with predators cannot be prevented. However, the majority of conflicts don’t occur in the backcountry, but rather, in towns, campgrounds, and subdivisions near wild lands where bears start looking for food when natural

last year, 144 verifiable conflicts between humans and black bears, cougars, or wolves were reported. year look like nothing. Between 1992 and 1996, British Columbia received 41,000 reports of human/black bear conflicts. During these four years, more than 4,200 bears were euthanized. In 1998, Canmore, a hamlet of about thirteen thousand people near Banff National Park, had 300 reported bear incidents in the area. In most instances, the conflicts were harmless, but still 9 bears had to be relocated and 4 euthanized. “I know people like to say ‘euthanized’ because it sounds nicer than ‘kill,’ ” says Linda Masterson, whose book, Living with Bears: A Practical Guide to Bear Country, was published in 2006, “but that’s softening the consequence of what happens when people don’t do what they’re supposed to do. These bears died because people weren’t doing what they could to not

supplies are in short supply. Once bears learn to associate humans with food, well, the municipal and provincial governments in British Columbia have to kill 4,200 of them. Eventually, in Canmore, “The community said, ‘Enough is enough,’ ” says Dan LeGrandeur, director of training, bear aversion, and bear safety for Canada’s Get Bear Smart Society. “The municipal government, provincial government, and community really took it upon themselves to partner and work together to reduce the conflicts.” So how does a community reduce conflicts? Jay Honeyman, bear conflict biologist with Alberta Environment and Sustainable Resource Development, says the priority is securing and/or regulating attractants that lure large predators

George Catlin, Buffalo Hunt under the Wolf-skin Mask, 1832-1833, oil on canvas, Smithsonian American Art Museum, Gift of Mrs. Joseph Harrison, Jr.

PHOTOS: BRADLY J. BONER

Twenty years ago, grizzlies were only in remote northern areas of GTNP. In 2011, a hunter, aided here by GTNP rangers and Teton County Sheriff’s deputies, received minor injuries from a grizzly bear just north of the park’s Blacktail Ponds Overlook, which is in the southern half of the park. Last year, near the same area, a group of three hunters shot and killed a grizzly when it charged them after they came upon it feeding on an elk carcass.

Wyoming Game and Fish officials and a Teton County Sheriff’s deputy transport a tranquilized female black bear to a containment trap after the sow and her cub were spotted in a tree on Broadway Avenue in the middle of Jackson. The cub was also tranquilized and placed into the trap with its mother; the pair were relocated to a remote area far from town.

into populated areas. Such attractants include trash cans, compost piles, pet food, and bird feeders. Canmore banned bird feeders between April and October and outlawed the outdoor composting of organic kitchen waste. Residents and businesses were required to get bearproof garbage systems. Whistler enacted similar bans and regulations. LeGrandeur says, “Garbage was the biggest problem—residential, restaurants, that sort of thing.” The city electrified its garbage facility, mandated bear-resistant garbage cans, and banned

bird feeders. In lean food years, the local government even drops roadkilled carcasses at elevations in nearby wilderness to give black bears further reason to avoid town. Recently, the town has experimented with planting berry bushes in remotes areas to supplement natural food sources. It is because of these changes that, despite the fact the number of human-bear interactions reported each year in the Whistler area has increased fourfold over the last decade, the number of bears that are killed has been cut in half. The interactions are not

“there are always more bears and more people. it is not a static thing.”

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

escalating to conflicts. Closer to home, Grand Teton National Park is “the gold standard for how to get along with bears in terms of garbage and food storage,” Cain says. “Since we’ve spent time and effort educating people about proper food storage, we’ve seen our number of conflicts go way down. Last year, we didn’t have a single [unnatural] grizzly bear conflict, and we haven’t had to euthanize a bear for many years.” MUCH LIKE CANMORE and Whistler when they began to address their problems, and more recently GTNP, Teton County has begun to take some positive steps toward limiting human-predator conflicts. The most important step is that our community has made clear the

value it places on wildlife. Although some ranchers and outfitters whose businesses are affected object to the presence and numbers of wolves and grizzlies, many residents are thrilled with the recovery of these predators. Local government also recognizes their importance. The Teton County Comprehensive Plan, which took four years to develop and was finally passed last May, states, “While preserving and protecting the area’s ecosystem is the core of our Vision and all aspects of our community character, our Vision cannot be achieved with a singular focus. To ensure our ecosystem protection results in a healthy environment, community, and economy, the Plan commits to three Common Values of Community Character: Ecosystem Stewardship, Growth Management, and Quality of Life.” It is no accident Ecosystem Stewardship is listed first. And the first principal of this value is to “maintain healthy populations of all native species.” So we want to enjoy and maintain our predatory neighbors. But how? Coexisting doesn’t mean humans living in the same space with wolves, black bears, cougars, and grizzlies. In fact, that is exactly what we need to avoid. In recent years, the county has taken steps toward this, passing three ordinances designed to make populated and developed areas less attractive to predators: one prohibits wildlife feeding, another requires bear-resistant garbage cans in highrisk areas, and another specifies guidelines for the hanging of bird feeders from April 1 to November 30 in areas with a history of bear conflicts. These policies are a good start, but it cannot yet be seen whether they are sufficient. “I think what people in bear country find challenging is that you can’t solve it and be done,” Masterson says. “There are always more bears and more people. It is not a static thing.” JH

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THE SNAKE RIVER

A photographic trip down one of the country’s mightiest waterways PHOTOGRAPHY BY KIRK ANDERSON

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

The Snake River bisects the landscape as it winds through Grand Teton National Park and beneath the jagged peaks of the Teton Range. SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

TOP: Dustin Rasnick, of Jackson, Wyoming, surfs the Lunch Counter rapid in the Grand Canyon of the Snake River, a popular whitewater section of the waterway, as other surfers wait their turn. The size and intensity of Lunch Counter and the nearby Big Kahuna rapid are affected by releases from Jackson Lake Dam. BOTTOM: An early summer storm moves across the Wyoming/Idaho border on an otherwise tranquil evening at Palisades Reservoir. OPPOSITE PAGE: Fall colors reflect vibrantly on the side channels of the South Fork of the Snake River in eastern Idaho’s Swan Valley.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Creating a photographic homage to the Snake River, the largest river in North America to empty into the Pacific Ocean, proved death defying for Sun Valley, Idaho, photographer Kirk Anderson. Though not his intention to risk life and limb, Anderson’s brush with mortality speaks to the ruggedness of this 1,078-mile river. To capture the drama of the Snake’s Hells Canyon, North America’s deepest river gorge, Anderson hired a helicopter to fly him over it. Getting in position to get the right shot entailed hanging out of the chopper, one foot on a landing skid, and two cameras—including a bulky, medium-format Hasselblad to get highdefinition detail—dangling from his neck. “I look down and my Canon, which was swinging freely, had unclipped my seat belt,” Anderson recalls, still in awe of the near-fatal mishap. In addition to helicopter, Anderson traveled by foot, camper van, jet boat, rubber raft, airplane, and ultralight airplane for three and a half years to capture the many moods and miles of the Snake River. The river springs to life above nine thousand feet where three tiny streams converge on Two Ocean Plateau in the Teton Wilderness, a hinterland home to enough grizzlies to spook an outfitter. From its wild beginning, the river is tamed downstream with a series of dams before draining into the Columbia River. During this project, the basis of his yetto-be-titled book on the Snake, Anderson recalls one day in particular had magic light. He first hired an ultralight plane to get aerials of the confluence of the South Fork and Henry’s Fork near Rexburg, Idaho. Then he quickly switched gears to a jet boat to get eye level with the South Fork below Palisades Reservoir. “I’m zipping around in this jet boat having some fun. I can’t say that I’m the most competent captain because I’m always photographing instead of driving,” he says. Indeed, Anderson kept beaching the boat on gravel bars because his eye was behind the camera. “The light was just off-the-scale perfect,” he says. The light still aglow, he stowed the boat in a campground and scrambled on foot up to a small waterfall near Swan Valley that he’d been scouting for years. He balanced the light on the waterfall, spilling into the Snake River, with the glow of the moonrise. A long exposure blurred the moving water, giving his photograph the feel of a painter’s brush strokes. “It was just perfection,” he says. “You’ve got to seize the moment because you think you can come back to something, but that’s rarely the case.” — Rebecca Huntington

SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

ABOVE: A full moon rises on the South Fork of the Snake River near Swan Valley with Fall Creek cascading into the river. LEFT: The braided channels of the South Fork of the Snake River flow through islands and gravel bars adorned with fall foliage near Ririe, Idaho.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

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SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

The H Richest h Life For some ranchers, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the assets they leave on the land that represent the true meaning of legacy. By Todd Wilkinson Photography by David Stubbs

The conservation easement on the Hardeman Barns and Meadow protects 103 acres of open space just outside Wilson at the base of Teton Pass. 82

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BOB LUCAS SOAKS in a solitary moment while thousands of other folks across Jackson Hole have gone to bed with dreams of a powder morning on their minds. At the edge of a pasture, pitch black save for a constellation of starlight above, it is the last night of February. Mist pours out of Lucas’ mouth into the frigid air as he exhales. Beside him, a mama beef cow and her bawling newborn calf. His bare, calloused hands sterilizing a snipped umbilical chord with iodine and laying down a mat of straw, he tends to his delivery, the first of what will be hundreds

of young additions to his Angus herd. He’s playing the role of rancher-midwife, though what he’s really nursing, observers say, is a fading tradition. As Bob and Kate Lucas will tell you, there are many times, having watched scores of rural neighbors pass from the scene, when they feel like an imperiled species—more uncommon even than the wolves and grizzly bears with whom they sometimes tangle. For readers who don’t cotton to nostalgia in the twenty-first century, believing it prosaic, here’s a truth to consider, a fact the Lucases refuse to

wear on their cowboy sleeve: If they had wanted to, they could be multimillionaires today, spending winters at a posh, gated retirement community in the Sun Belt and returning to a summer home along the links at Teton Pines, one of Jackson Hole’s most exclusive luxury golf enclaves. But in order to realize the fortune, they would have had to cash out their land—hundreds of acres of prime real estate in South Park—likely to developers. It would’ve meant giving up their livestock, too. And it’s a kind of what-if endeavor that sixty-year-old Bob Lucas SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

ultimately rejected. Why? Because he regards it as a violation of both his personal values and fourth-generation heritage. Lucas has sympathy for ranchers who have gotten out of the cattle business and, in some cases, been forced to sell their beloved pieces of terra firma due to tough economics. Market forces, commodity prices that haven’t kept pace with rising operation costs, ranch kids not wanting to toil as hard as their parents, tensions with environmentalists, and the hassles of

“I’ve had people tell me I’m crazy. But you know what? I do feel rich, because I’m still able to live my dream.” — Rancher Bob Lucas

trying to run cows through fragmented landscapes—all have taken their toll. For Lucas, he thinks of his rancher parents who imparted a bit of wisdom almost half a century ago, well before Jackson Hole became discovered as a fashionable place for affluent lifestyle pilgrims. “They [his parents] used to say it’s more important to be good by your word than gauging success only on making all kinds of money, because money can’t buy happiness,” he says. “I’ve had people tell me I’m crazy. But you know 84

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what? I do feel rich, because I’m still able to live my dream.” To keep the dream alive, the Lucases not long ago struck an innovative deal with the Jackson Hole Land Trust and the Nature Conservancy. In exchange for putting their historic South Park ranch, the U Lazy U, under a conservation easement—ensuring it will remain as pastoral open space and wildlife habitat forever— they gained title to six thousand acres of private and public grazing lands near Dubois held by the Nature Conservancy. Now, every summer, they truck and turn out their Jackson Hole-born beef cows at Ramshorn Ranch, watching over them vigilantly on horseback. A conservation easement is a restriction that a property owner voluntarily attaches to the deed, limiting what kind of development can occur. It’s a tool, replete with estate tax advantages, that almost single-handedly is responsible for protecting the scenic tapestry of private land that local residents, visitors, and the valley’s iconic wildlife treasure. The Lucases’ U Lazy U fronts two miles of the Snake River and has a spring creek running through it. It’s home to elk, moose, mule deer, trumpeter swans, bald eagles, herons, and river otters, among many other animals. HERE IN JACKSON Hole, the bumper sticker “Cows Not Condos” isn’t a hollow slogan. The Teton County Commission is now wrestling with the details of a new

The Lucases’ U Lazy U Ranch fronts two miles of the Snake River and is home to elk, moose, mule deer, trumpeter swans, bald eagles, herons, river otters, and many other animals. The family placed the property under a conservation easement, ensuring it will remain pastoral open space and wildlife habitat forever.

comprehensive land-use plan—one of the most foresighted across the West— that tries to keep large pieces of private land intact. Conservation easements, incentives offered for clustering development, and allowing ranchers to divest tiny pieces of their land to generate income to stay afloat are all part of the mix. “We must always remember that the conservation coin has two sides,” says Dennis Glick, cofounder of the Bozeman, Montana-based FutureWest, a think-tank devoted to land-use planning. “One side identifies lands that are critical for protecting the natural assets that make a community like Jackson Hole special. The other side points to lands that are appropriate for development to accommodate growth. Fortunately, science is making us smarter to differentiate one side of the coin from the other.” What residents of Jackson Hole often fail to realize is that the kinds of discussions occurring in Teton County are far more sophisticated than almost anywhere else. “Regionally and perhaps West-wide, Teton County has done an exceptional job of protecting private land compared to many of its neighbors,” Glick says. “They’ve done it through the

work of the land trust and local government planning along with nongovernmental conservation groups like the Jackson Hole Conservation Alliance watchdogging growth.” In contrast, Teton County, Idaho, just on the other side of Teton Pass, has dealt with an onslaught of developers targeting second-home buyers during the housing boom of the early and mid-2000s and also with a steady stream of middle-income workers who were priced out of the Jackson Hole real estate market. Combine this population influx with county planning and zoning regulations that were criticized as lax during the development boom, and the result is scattershot sprawl. Many of the housing developments that sprung up on former ranchland during the last decade turned into “ghost subdivisions” when the housing market collapsed. As Glick notes, another bumper sticker could read: “Sprawl is Forever.” Private lands comprise just 3 percent of Teton County, Wyoming. In the wake of inward population migration, development pressure has skyrocketed along with real estate values. Undeniable is that an acre of land has a far greater amenity value for people willing to pay for homes 86

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with pretty views than the worth of grassfeeding a cow.

The Bar BC placed 507 acres on the north end of Spring Gulch under a conservation easement.

STILL, THE LIST of families and properties on the land trust easement roster is embedded in the lore of Jackson Hole and the people behind them are deserving of veneration, says Laurie Andrews, executive director of the Jackson Hole Land Trust, a Jackson-based nonprofit founded in 1980. She mentions the Walton Ranch (1,840 acres) and the Hansen Ranch (211 acres) protecting Teton views along Highway 22; the Hardeman Barns and Meadow (103 acres) outside of Wilson; the U Lazy U along the Snake River corridor south of Jackson; the Huidekoper Ranch (138 acres); Lower Snake River Ranch (440 acres); Indian Springs Ranch South (624 acres); Poodle Ranch (241 acres); Trail Creek Ranch (280 acres); Red Rock Ranch (473 acres) in the Gros Ventre mountains; Hatchet and Fir Creek ranches (another 1,000 acres) in Buffalo Valley; Fish Creek Dude Ranch (381 acres); the Jenkins Ranch (391 acres); Bar BC Ranch (507 acres); and the R Lazy S, which enacted an easement only a year after the land trust was founded. These ranches are flung far and

wide—more than 140 in the valley and beyond encompassing 25,000 acres. Put them together and they create a mosaic of some of the most attractive—to both people and wildlife—pieces of real estate in the valley. Andrews says that as notable as the millions upon millions of dollars of property the Lucases and other families collectively have forsaken by placing land under conservation easements is the amount of joy and use communities and wildlife get from the lands. While crown jewel federal lands like Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, the National Elk Refuge, and six large national forests get most of the attention in the 18-million-acre Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, private lands do represent 32 percent of the GYE land mass. And private lands often form the crucial threads that knit the bigger landscapes together. Tom Segerstrom, the Jackson Hole Land Trust’s staff biologist, has tried to amass a compelling scientific case for why easements matter. “What would Jackson

BRADLY J. BONER

Hole look like if there weren’t any conservation easements in the valley?” he asks. “That’s a tough one to imagine, because many of the ranching families in the valley may have kept their ranches intact even without an easement on their property. So it isn’t necessarily that we would look like a Colorado resort town, say, another Aspen or Vail. But from the study that we did a few years ago, we can deduce that there would be 3.6 times as many houses and 6.4 times as many roads per

“Many of the new [land]owners are coming from the city and don’t have the same ethic that the previous residents did,” Clark says. acre than there are today on each conservation property.” Over the years, Segerstrom and a wider circle of government and independent scientists have tried to map the crucial corridors that wildlife need to 88

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navigate between blocks of remaining private land habitat found within fragmented landscapes. In the absence of easements, with more than three and a half times as many homes, and six and a half times more roads per acre, even an amateur naturalist can conjecture on the consequences for species like moose and elk, to say nothing of the pastoral views beloved by all. MIKE CLARK, A private land conservation expert who spent more than a decade leading the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, has a soft spot for ranchers and farmers. He notes that between 1990 and 2001, the Interior West experienced a tidal wave of new residents. In just that single decade, fully onequarter of all private ranches and farms 400 acres or larger changed hands, turning over in many cases from old-guard families to wealthy buyers and developers. Just in Greater Yellowstone, it affected nearly 1.5 million acres. Within twenty years, that figure will swell by 50 percent. “Many of the new owners are coming from the city and don’t have the same ethic that the previous residents did,” Clark says. “They see nothing wrong with carving up parcels and converting them

A small herd of elk grazes on the Puzzleface Ranch between Jackson and Wilson during their spring migration. One of the consequences of development is that migration corridors for wildlife have been squeezed, resulting in more animal/motor vehicle collisions and a loss of winter grazing grounds. Several conservation easements between Jackson and Wilson give wildlife a wide swath to migrate between their summer and winter homes.

into patchworks of bricks, mortar, and asphalt.” Winter ranges that used to support elk on the outskirts of many communities, for instance, have been inundated by subdivisions leaving wapiti displaced. Clark’s conclusions are based on data collected by researchers with the Center of the American West that examined trends affecting agricultural land in ten counties throughout the Greater Yellowstone region. Teton County, Wyoming, wasn’t included because the challenges that come with our exceptionally high real estate prices are unique. Throughout the rest of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, the biggest changeover in ownership involves traditional ranchers selling to affluent amenity buyers, some of whom raise cattle as a hobby, or use the land for hunting or as liquid investments. The upshot is that

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many of them may have conservation outcomes in mind but, the study notes, “It is also difficult to judge the stability of the new ownership regime. While continuity of family ownership across generations is often a central goal of traditional ranch operations, we do not know how long new amenity owners are likely to hold onto large properties, nor how the transition from one amenity owner to another, or among investors, is likely to play out.” Scientists at Montana State University in Bozeman prepared a different analysis based on development patterns to date. They concluded that if rising development pressure continues without smart land-use planning in place, 40 percent of private land habitat, including some that is irreplaceable for a wide range of species, will be negatively impacted by 2020. But, with regulations that recognize the biological needs of wildlife, the loss could be reduced to 26 percent. There are also economic arguments that can be made, Glick of FutureWest

says. Ranches and farmland are the least costly for taxpayers to service, as compared to subdivisions that require police and fire protection, public works, schools, and infrastructure maintenance such as roads. And whether it’s the Lucases, Hansens, or Huidekopers, landowners placing conservation easements on their property are protecting a new emerging asset class called “ecosystem services.” Clean water. Habitat for public wildlife. Green spaces and views that inspire and enhance property values around them. “Agriculture in the West is known to be the most effective and least expensive type of open space and habitat conservation, and it’s something we’ve seen here in Jackson as well,” Segerstrom says, noting the benefits of having policies in place that better enable agrarians to stay on the land. By far the premier policy has been conservation easements. “You can see the role that agriculture has played in the long-term stewardship of conservation easements,” Segerstrom says. “These are many of the

oldest and largest easements in the valley, and many of the ranchers that placed those easements still ranch their land today. They take pride in their identity as ranchers, and are dedicated and invested in the health of their land, now and into the future.” I ASK LUCAS after he pulled an allnighter to deliver calves: What is it that makes him excited to rise out of bed every morning before dawn? “When I was a teenager, I drove past those Tetons and I took them for granted. That’s what you do when you are young,” he said. “But every day that I get up now, I realize how spectacular they are and how fortunate I am to live in this place. To be honest, I don’t know what it would mean to be retired from doing something you love. I’ve always felt that by having more to do, by having a reason to be out there every day in this country, that I’m more blessed than someone who just lounges around. I feel closer to creation the older I get.” JH

Ted Turner doesn’T have any large land parcels in Jackson Hole, but the former global media mogul is a proud inhabitant of Greater Yellowstone, owning fifteen ranches in six western states. In total, he has more than two million acres of private property, the vast majority of it along the Rockies. After he purchased the 113,000-acre Flying D Ranch southwest of Bozeman, Montana, in the late 1980s, he placed a conservation easement on it through The Nature Conservancy. At the time, that easement was the largest in the West. Turner today is the second-largest private property owner in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, behind Earl Holding, who ranches near Sunlight Basin just beyond the northeastern boundary of Yellowstone National Park. The Flying D, besides being home to five thousand bison (Turner swapped out cattle for the native bovines), is also home to every major large mammal that roamed there at the end of the Pleistocene about eleven thousand years ago: wolves, grizzly and black bears, mountain lions, elk, moose, pronghorn, bighorn sheep, wolverine, lynx, Ted Turner on his Snowcrest Ranch south of Alder, Montana. and even, in the fish category, rare westslope cutthroat trout. Turner says he never wanted to do anything with his land that would earn him a place in infamy. “I want to have the respect of local people. I value it. I want to be able to hold my head high for doing the right thing when I walk down the street in Bozeman.” The Flying D, which spans twenty-five miles of remarkable geography between the blue-ribbon Madison River on the west and Gallatin River on the east, functions as an “ark” for wildlife, and yet he’s running a profitable bison operation that delivers lean bison meat to his Ted’s Montana Grill restaurants across the country. Turner paid $22 million for the ranch more than twenty years ago. Had he chosen to subdivide, land appraisers have said the property would be worth upwards of $1 billion now if its development potential were maximized. Instead, the easement on the ranch allows him to build just five more homes, one for each of his children. 90

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sEan sPErry / BoZEMan daily ChroniClE

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Playing On Almost a century old, today’s Jackson Hole Playhouse has seen—and been—many things. by BRIELLE SCHAEFFER

Before a performance of The Ballad of Cat Ballou at the Jackson Hole Playhouse last summer, some theatergoers lounged on a red velvet settee, while others saddled up to the concession counter for buttery popcorn and sweet sarsaparilla. The show’s cast, who moments before were serving blackened catfish and chicken breast to diners in the adjoining Saddle Rock Saloon, made their way to the foyer for a preshow number. And then they ushered everyone inside the woody and cavernous auditorium. Onstage, the actors brought the fictional Old West town of Wolf City, Wyoming, and the kooky story of a school teacher-turnedoutlaw to life with a mountain backdrop and corseted can-can girls. Tap-dancing emulated telegraph beeps. The energy was infectious—and so were the audience’s belly laughs. 92

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The Playhouse, which sits just west of the Town Square on Deloney Avenue, is the oldest framed building in Jackson. It’s been many things in its nearly one hundred years, from a buggy shop to a garage, a Western Union outpost, and a bowling alley. It still has its original tin ceiling and rows of metal post office boxes from a previous incarnation. “She’s run the gamut,” says Vicki Garnick, who now owns the building and is the playhouse’s director and producer. And while it’s changed much over the years—or maybe because it has changed so much over the years—there’s an old energy in the building. Maybe it’s from the alleged resident ghosts. (Performers and audience members alike have reported seeing a man in a top hat onstage, children in the kitchen, and cowboys straddling the bar. Several years ago, a paranormal and

a filmmaking team that came from Denver found lots of spiritual activity in the building, Garnick says.) “When people walk in they go, ‘Wow, this is so cool,’ ” Garnick says. “They feel like they’ve stepped back in time.” CONSTRUCTED IN 1916 by Charles “Pap” Deloney, the building was originally meant to be an automobile garage, even though no cars had yet come to town. “The building was first used as a blacksmith shop, and they worked on buggies while they waited for the cars to come in,” former owner and electrician Ed Cheney told the Jackson Hole Guide in 1969. When cars eventually came to town, it fulfilled its original purpose as a Ford dealership and then a Chevrolet dealership run by Walt Spicer. In 1946, Spicer sold the building and it became another auto dealer

Before it was the Jackson Hole Playhouse, the building on Deloney hosted other theater groups â&#x20AC;Ś as well as a garage and bowling alley. SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

COURTESY GARNICK FAMILY; FAR LEFT: COURTESY JACKSON HOLE HISTORICAL SOCIETY

ABOVE: Built in 1916 to be an automobile garage, the building on Deloney is now the Jackson Hole Playhouse. RIGHT: From 1959 to 1969, the building was the Pink Garter Theater.

selling the short-lived, American-made Kaiser-Frazer cars. Between 1947 and 1953, it was a gun shop, a freight shipping office, and a bus depot. But these businesses were all on the ground floor. There’s a

establishments. Winners supposedly celebrated upstairs here. Cheney and his wife, Vera, bought the building in 1953. Born and raised in Jackson Hole, Cheney was part of a big Mormon family that homesteaded in Wilson. His relative, Nick Wilson, is that town’s namesake. Vera Cheney, an entertainer from New York, came through Jackson on her way to China with the Women’s Army Corp. Dancing at the Stagecoach one night during her stopover, she met Ed. Vera never made it to China. Supposedly, Vera accepted Ed’s marriage proposal on two conditions: Their cabin must have 1) electricity and 2) indoor plumbing. After buying the building, the Cheneys ran it as a storage garage. The first winter, it housed Grand Teton National Park’s snow removal equipment because it was one of the few buildings in town large enough to do so. In

rumor the upstairs rooms were a brothel. Gambling was illegal at the time but, Jackson Hole being so far removed from the eyes of any federal law enforcement, it happened in the basements of several downtown drinking

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

1954, the Cheneys, looking to bring some culture and entertainment to the area, turned it into a bowling alley, some parts of which still can be seen today. “The cherry wood floor in the auditorium was the cherry wood floor they put in for the bowling alley,” Garnick says. LIKe conSerVaTIon anD snow sports, theater in the valley has been a steadfast tradition. Environmentalist Mardy Murie was instrumental in creating the Wilderness Act to protect federal land; she also helped create the Jackson Community Theater in the late 1930s/ early 1940s. She was looking to cure cabin fever and give locals something to do in the winter. It was all wonderfully amateur, though. In 1954, New York producer John Stark thought Jackson Hole enough of a destination to establish a summer stock theater in a tent at the base of Snow King Mountain where the baseball diamond is today. Stark’s performances were well received enough that Paula Jeffrey, a producer from Nevada, thought to establish something more permanent and contacted the Cheneys about leasing their bowl-

ing alley as a playhouse. Jeffrey’s Pink Garter Theater opened in 1959 with its first production, an original play called Brother Against Brother or Never Murder Your Father, You’ll Get Shot in the End. “In the beginning of the theater, there were no sets, no costumes, and no lighting effects except on and off,” Jeffrey wrote in a piece published in the June 13, 1963, edition of the Jackson Hole Guide. Actors were college students and beauty queens. Dawn Wells, who played Mary Ann Summers on the TV sitcom Gilligan’s Island, performed at the theater one season. By the time the Pink Garter was in its fifth season, it had graduated to intricately designed sets, one hundred additional seats, new company members, and a production of the Johann Baptiste Strauss operetta, Die Fledermaus. In the

Pink Garter Theater actors duel it out in their 1967 production of Tom Jones. The theater later changed the spelling of its name to Pink Garter Theatre.

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Show business runs in the Garnicks’ blood. Cameron and Vicki had eight children, who now range in age from fifteen to thirtythree years old. All of them have performed in something at the playhouse … and elsewhere. The oldest, Vanessa Boshoff, thirtythree, is a wildlife filmmaker in Panama. She had a series on Animal Planet in 2007 called Caught in a Moment and is currently working on a documentary with her younger brother, Creed, twenty-five, about cowboy cultures around the world called A Cowboy’s Creed. Singer/songwriter Jessica Garnick O’Neal, thirty-one, lives in Dubois with her family, directs plays at Jackson Hole High School and performs in her band, No Sweat. Savanna, twenty-nine, lives in Nashville where she is pursuing an acting and studiorecording career. Rachael Zimmerman, twenty-seven, runs the Teton County/Jackson after-school programs. She lives in Moran with her husband and three kids. Creed, who studied drama at The Juilliard School, made it to Broadway. He is performing as an understudy in celebrity playwright Christopher Durang’s show, Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike. Sky, twenty-three, had a brief career modeling for Saks Fifth Avenue in New York City and is now studying psychology at the University of Wyoming. Eighteen-year-old Golden hopes to follow Creed’s footsteps and study acting at Juilliard. Last year, he shined as Tony in Jackson Hole High School’s spring musical, West Side Story. The youngest, fifteen-year-old Cheyenne, wants to be a writer. “She thinks she’s the next J.K. Rowling,” Vicki Garnick says. “We think she is, too.” 96

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The Second Generation 1960s, Time magazine rated it one of the best small theaters in the country. Businessmen noticed and in 1969, Jeffrey received an offer she couldn’t refuse and took the Pink Garter Theatre name—and most of its lighting equipment—and moved it a few blocks south to where it is today on West Broadway. Other theaters—Diamond Lil’s (before actress Mae West protested because of copyright) and Dirty Jack’s—briefly moved into the space before the Cheneys established their own theater, Jackson Hole Playhouse. IN EARLY 1973, a young Vicki Toland came to Jackson from Utah as a cast member in a Jackson Hole Playhouse summer revue. A fine art major at Brigham Young University, she says, “Jackson used to be the place to go to see theater when you didn’t go to Vegas.” Later that summer, she got a gig in Sundance, Utah, acting in Robert Redford’s theater. That’s where she met the man who became her husband. Cameron Garnick, who died in 2007, grew up in Nevada but moved to

Vicki Garnick first performed at the Jackson Hole Playhouse in 1973 and leased the building for theater productions in 1980. In 2006, Garnick and her family partnered with a music production company to finally purchase the building.

Wyoming with his performer mother and rancher father while still in high school. He was studying agriculture and animal husbandry at BYU when he met Vicki. They eloped in Las Vegas in 1977, en route to Los Angeles, where Cameron was to pursue a film career. But film was never their long-term plan. “We wrote in our journals we’re going to own a theater and a ranch,” Garnick says. In 1978, the Garnicks moved back to Wyoming to run Brooks Lake Lodge, on the Dubois side of Togwotee Pass. Garnick dreamed of returning to the Jackson Hole Playhouse, though. But not merely as a performer. “I called Vera and asked if the theater would ever be for lease,” Garnick says. “She said, ‘Absolutely not.’ ” But only a few months later, Vera had a different answer. She called Garnick, who was five

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months pregnant with her first child, with an offer to lease the building for a $20,000 deposit. Young and newly married, Garnick didn’t have $20,000, but she did have access to a lodge with a bar. Even if she wasn’t pregnant, “We don’t drink,” she says. “So I hocked booze all over town.” This was a great idea that almost turned disastrous. At one liquor store she went to, she ran into a Teton County liquor commissioner. He could have cited her for bootlegging. Instead, he bought her remaining stock. The bar inventory sold, and the Garnicks had their money. They took over the Jackson Hole Playhouse. The Garnicks kept the name Jackson Hole Playhouse and opened in 1980, alternating performances of the original show Satin Lady and the musical comedy by Mary Rodgers, Once Upon A Mattress. “The sign outside the theater made it look like the show was ‘Satin Lady On a Mattress,’ ” Garnick says. “It made people think we were really something.” In 1984, the Garnicks produced the hit Broadway and Hollywood musical Seven Brides for Seven Brothers. “It turned a page,” Garnick says. “We made a lot of money.” The family used it to buy the Triangle C Ranch in Dubois, which they still own and operate today. All eight of the Garnicks’ kids grew up on the ranch … and onstage at the playhouse. At the playhouse, the Garnick family also grew to include other cast members. “It’s very tight-knit,” past playhouse performer Ben Medina says. He started at the theater in the 1998 production of The Unsinkable Molly Brown, and was in a number of shows over the years, including The Ballad of Cat Ballou in 2008 and Seven Brides for Seven Brothers in 2010. “[Vicki] treats everyone like family,” he says. The Cheneys passed away in the 1990s, and in 2006, the Garnicks were able to become part-owners of the building. “It was a long dream come true,” Vicki Garnick says. JH

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outdoors

BRADLY J. BONER

JH Living

Larry Feuz runs his hunting camp not all that differently than his grandfather and father did before him. by PAUL BRUUN

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Larry Feuz has been guiding hunters in search of elk for more than fifty years in Jackson Hole. He took over the Leidy Creek hunting camp from his father, Emil, who started guiding from it in 1947.

One instantly recognizes the air of competence maintained by certain people who are in sync with their own abilities and surroundings. Seventy-year-old Larry Feuz has been dragging hunters around Jackson Hole in search of elk for more than fifty years, and quietly exhibits this outward appearance. When seeking information on the evolving state of outfitting and elk hunting in the face of Jackson’s growing population, the changing landuse mosaic and personal attitudes, a vacillating economy, current wildlife management theories, increased predators, and the newest gear, Feuz (pronounced “fates”) is a qualified expert. Larry and his longtime M.F. Hunting and Fencing business partner, Russ Moses, also seventy, erect custom fences during the summer and chase elk in the fall. In winter, Larry drives a WYDOT snowplow in the Snake River Canyon. Living among wild game all year, he’s a dedicated observer. The modest M.F. big game hunting camp on Leidy Creek in Bridger-Teton National Forest (Elk Area 81) continues despite a greatly diminished— September 26 through October 25—season. “When I began guiding, we hunted from September 10 to November 15. A lot of Thanksgivings were spent in that camp,” Larry wistfully recalls. The Feuz family has been hunting in Jackson Hole since 1911, when Fred Feuz and his wife, Caroline, Larry’s grandparents, emigrated here. (Fred had been injured as a mountain climbing guide in his native Switzerland.) They offered hunting trips out of their homestead-ranch that was three miles up Spread Creek. In 1947, Larry’s father, Emil, started the current Leidy Creek camp. The way Larry finds his clients isn’t all that different than how his father did. “I’m way old-fashioned,” he somberly admits. “We don’t go to sportsmen shows. We don’t have a color brochure and not even a website. I don’t own a computer or a cellphone. Our letter describes my background and hunting ethics … and a lot of people still appreciate a modest approach.” By every February, he has prepared about three thousand letters to mail to nonresident hunters successful in drawing a Wyoming general area elk license. The letters go out after March 1.

Who hunts elk? “We get hunters in their seventies and lots of older guys. We don’t give ’em more than they can handle. … We run a modest-size camp, always with six hunters—two hunters per guide [Russ,

Larry, and Larry’s forty-one-year-old son, Dan]. Our camp features six-day hunts, and we’re pretty reasonable, I think. I charge $500 a day and don’t charge for extra species [moose or deer] but their populations are pretty slim. We’ve gone from nine hunts down to four hunts per season. Hunters and guides ride a fresh horse every day. We’ve got camp and cooking folks.” “Most of our clients are working people— builders, firemen, plumbers, accountants, petroleum folks, construction guys, and farmers. Dad had a number of Midwestern farmers till they all went broke in the seventies and eighties. My grandparents hunted with lots of railroad folks from Rawlins, Laramie, and up and down the UP [Union Pacific] line.” “Around our camp there were lots of resident hunters from Riverton, Lander, and Dubois, as well as Gillette and Casper. But in the last five years they’ve gone elsewhere. The rest of Wyoming—the Snowys, Big Horns, and even below Rock Springs—has gained better elk hunting and is without grizzly bears and wolves,” he notes. Locally, “There’s an overall decline in kids going into hunting, and there’s so few locals that are hunters,” Larry says. “We take some local hunters once in a while. My son, Dan, has been with us over twenty years as a guide, and he’ll bring in some locals.” “Today, most hunters drive out and haul coolers or trailers in order to take elk meat home,” Larry explains. “I tell ’em that we’ve got some nice bulls— a majority of four- and five-point average, but most are here to get away from the telephone. We get some trophy guys but mostly people ‘who just enjoy hunting.’ The kill is the icing on the cake.” “We get quite a few southern fellows, and a lot more than we used to. They make me nervous,” he adds with a wry smile. “I love ’em. They’re so polite!” On the subject of rifles, Feuz’s suggestion is uncomplicated: “If you say you’re really good with a .30-30 Winchester, then that’s what we’ll go with.” Larry carried a .270 Winchester for years but today shoots heavy 180-grain loads in his .30/06 Model 700 Remington Mountain Carbine with peep sights. “It’s not set up for long range or anything special. It’s good for finishing off something,” he says.

“Most [hunters] are here to get away from the telephone. We get some trophy guys but mostly people ‘who just enjoy hunting.’”

Some firm opinions Larry planned to become a wildlife manager and actually lasted a year and a half studying zoology in Laramie. “But what are you going to do SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

when you hear stuff from instructors—like, ‘Elk don’t have a good sense of smell’—that I knew from personal experience wasn’t true? Besides, why on earth does college take place during hunting season?” he asks. Larry doesn’t crank up his volume or split his Wranglers like other career outdoorsmen, guides, and outfitters do over such incendiary issues as

We don’t do much bugling anyway, but we’ve gone from nine weeks of hunting to four. Our longstanding success average was two out of three hunters got an elk,” Feuz explains. He laments, “It’s a lot lower now—around 50 percent—and really depends on where the wolves happen to be. If they move away, you get better hunting.” Feuz admits he’s not a fan of wolves. “People don’t realize what these animals can do. If there are, say, five thousand elk on the [National Elk] refuge, without wolves there would be just as big a number [also] wintering out in places like the Buffalo Valley and Gros Ventre,” he emphasizes. “That isn’t happening anymore. [Game and Fish] reports that elk are moving into the feedgrounds much earlier now. Elk bunch up to survive!” When asked about the effects of Wyoming’s new 2012 fall hunting season on wolves, Larry shrugs. “I don’t think it altered their behavior one bit.” Between October 1 and December 31, 2012, Wyoming hunting season records indicate sixtyeight wolves were killed statewide. Forty-two of those were killed in the trophy hunt area between Jackson and Cody. Prior to these wolves being taken, it was estimated their population in the Greater Yellowstone area was about three hundred. Feuz also questions the reasoning of various environmental groups, especially those against elk feedgrounds. “For example, if they’re worried about heightened brucellosis transmission among elk on feed, the cow loses its first calf. Then it’s over. If brucellosis is so rampant, how has the local bison herd [contaminated with brucellosis] continued to grow by leaps and bounds?” he puzzles. Currently, the herd is over one thousand animals and is growing at approximately 15 percent annually.

How much longer? TOP: The M.F. Hunting camp on Leidy Creek in the Bridger-Teton National Forest can accommodate six hunters and three guides. Each hunter gets a fresh horse every day. BOTTOM: The cook’s tent is the heart of the M.F. Hunting camp.

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winter elk feeding, predators, and the state of elk hunting in Jackson Hole. But he doesn’t lack firm opinions, either, and he reads extensively. “Hunting is maybe a bad word in some society circles. But hunting is still a big deal, and Jackson Hole is still a big deal to hunters,” he says. “This was the flagship elk herd of the country, and now the numbers and winter ranges have been allowed to deteriorate.” “I’ve been through a lot of different season management schemes in some fifty years of guiding. Regulations have vacillated from spikes [yearand-a-half-old bulls with a single antler and no brow tines] included and then excluded to cows closed or open for a limited time to the current ‘mature bulls only’ rules. When they took away the September 10 opening and moved it to the 26th, it was ‘to protect bulls’ and avoid the bugling season.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

When asked if he still enjoys dealing with the long hours, possibly difficult clients, and the backbreaking toil that accompanies big game outfitting, Feuz cheerfully explains, “People generally are good to deal with. They don’t hassle us too much. A little bit of gray hair goes a long way. We know how to handle people. When you’re young you probably don’t have the same authority as today.” “I don’t intend to, but you don’t have much to sell anymore,” he sighs, remembering how hunting camps were once hot real estate commodities during better financial times and great hunting. “It’s not as glamorous an occupation as it used to be. The wolves are seeing to that,” he scoffs. “Yeah, I’m going to keep doing this as long as I feel good and I’m in good enough shape to give a man a fair hunt. If he has to boost me on the horse, well then, that’s a different story. Russ feels the same as I do.” JH

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How to Win Friends and Rob Banks BY TIM SANDLIN ILLUSTRATIONS BY BIRGITTA SIF

The talk of the town this past winter was our very own bank robbery. On New Year’s Eve, an Australian self-help author named Corey Donaldson borrowed his friend’s Toyota Tundra and drove up from Utah to rob the US Bank. We don’t know why he didn’t hit a bank closer to home, or why he borrowed a truck if he planned to park in front of security cameras. All we know is Corey got $140,000 and change, and drove away into the sunset. He was caught twenty-two days later, in a taxicab, with only $20,000 left of the money. Corey claims he gave the rest to the homeless. The only person in Teton County who believes that story is an old woman up Game Creek with a neck wider around than her head and a firm belief in intelligent design. For one thing, Corey said he gave $15,000 to the Reno Salvation Army, but no one at the Reno Salvation Army recalls the gift. If he’s falling back on the Robin Hood defense, Corey should have asked for receipts. The rampant rumor around town is that Corey hid the money. The thought process—at least in the Jackson Hole High 102

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lunchroom—is he ditched at least $100,000 before he left town, knowing the borrowed truck would sooner or later lead to grief. His plan is to make bail, come pick up his money and then flee back to Australia, where he has a large family who look at him as a scamp. Over spring break, Heather Heidi and Clyde WalsowskiSmith’s daughter, Ariel, organized a treasure hunt. Five of us— Clyde, H-H, Ariel, me, and Maurey Pierce—met at Pearl Street Bagels. “It was winter when he took the money,” Clyde said. “That cuts down considerably on hidey holes.” “He must have stashed it in a culvert,” Heather Heidi said. Ariel was drinking a double latte, which I wouldn’t have allowed had she been my daughter. She said, “What a culvert.” Kids these days. I tried to explain the theory of highway drainage. She never did get it till Maurey showed her a photo on Instagram. “Oh,” Ariel said. “A pipe.” “A big pipe.”

“How much space would $100,000 in cash take up?” Heather Heidi asked. We all conjectured based on the two tens and a Bagel Buck I had in my billfold, but it was beyond reasonable expectations without an idea of the original denominations. Maurey said, “Unless they were thousand-dollar bills, they wouldn’t fit in a Gucci handbag.” “Corey didn’t look like a guy with a Gucci,” Clyde said. “My guess is duffel. Or laundry bag.” “Birdhouses,” Heather Heidi said. “He broke up the money and stuck it in birdhouses, figuring he’d be back before the birds. There are hundreds of birdhouses between here and Utah.” “How about an abandoned mailbox?” I said. “The rural delivery kind with the little red flag that flips up.” “Or an osprey nest,” Maurey said. “Nobody would see it in an osprey nest.” Clyde said, “A hollow tree.” Bottom line is the five of us split up to search all the likely spots in Teton County. I assigned myself abandoned mailboxes, only I didn’t find any, so I came back empty-handed. Two hours later, the others reconvened at the bagel shop. They had found sixty-two cents in dull change, three sandwich baggies of marijuana, a tiny cutter race trophy, a plastic cup advertising Jackie’s Cosmetic Surgery, a quart jar of elk turds, a rusted cellphone, and a geocache logbook. Ariel also found a dead cat, but she didn’t bring it inside the bagel shop. No hundred thousand dollars. “I think he mailed it to himself in Ecuador,” Heather Heidi said. “That’s what the bank robbers did on Hawaii Five-O.” I looked up Corey’s website—AnalyzeMyWife.com—on my smartphone. Analyzing failed relationships is what Corey did for a living before he turned to robbing banks. He also published two self-help books, Don’t You Dare Get Married Until You Read This! and Don’t You Dare Have Kids Until You Read This! The website was down, but the Amazon bio didn’t mention he was a divorced guy with no kids. “You think there’s a lot of cash flow in self-help?” I asked. “Must be,” Maurey said. “Hundreds of them come out every year. They have their own section at the bookstore.” “I always had the urge to write a self-help book about relationships,” Heather Heidi said. Her husband guffawed. That’s the only word for it. Guffaw. “What would you know about relationships?” “I’ve been married to you thirty years. That either makes me a saint or a superhero.” This sparked my curiosity. “So what would you say in a selfhelp book? I need all the wisdom I can get.” Heather Heidi drummed her fingers on the table. “OK, here’s the most important lesson I’ve learned from life. “Don’t stay in a motel with a sign out front that says ‘Clean Restrooms. ’ ” Maurey said, “Do not pick up hitchhikers wearing camouflage.” Ariel said, “Never buy macaroni and cheese cheaper than Kraft.” The wisdom came quicker now with each of us chiming in. “Don’t make ice cream out of yellow snow.”

“Don’t buy electronics from a man without teeth.” “Don’t put your real birthday on Facebook.” “Never mix toothpaste with thirty-weight oil.” “Don’t ever, ever use transition as a verb.” That one was from me. “Don’t hire a babysitter who has LOVE and HATE tattooed on her knuckles.” “When casting a fly rod upwind, use a barbless hook.” “Never eat blue food.” “People who live in tin houses shouldn’t throw can openers.” “Don’t send money to a woman in Chad who says she’ll give you $30 million if you’ll only help her get it out of the country.” “Don’t forward jokes or pictures of cute cats.” “Don’t pee in the light socket,” Ariel said. “What?” “You told me that over and over when I was a kid.” “That’s all valid information.” I poured honey into my latte, which is not something the others did. “But we’ll never sell books unless you write about love. Nobody really cares about macaroni and cheese.” “I do.” “Don’t you have any wise words for the dating set?” Clyde went first. “Powder and paint makes ’em what they ain’t. Padding and stuffing, don’t add nothing.” Heather Heidi gave Clyde a look that women can pull off and men can’t. “Stay away from men who curse in the backcountry. If they can’t find peace in the woods, they can’t find peace.” Clyde: “Beware of women in wigs.” Heather Heidi: “If he says, ‘I have a bad history with credit cards,’ pass him by.” Clyde: “Stay clear of women who don’t eat.” I jumped in. “Don’t go out with anyone who uses five or more adjectives to order coffee.” Heather Heidi: “If a man looks too good to be true, he is.” Maurey: “Never marry a man who has more prescriptions than you.” Heather Heidi: “Separated is not the same as divorced.” Ariel: “Don’t sleep with your roommate.” “How do you know that?” Clyde asked. “You don’t want to know.” I said, “You lose them the way you get them, so if he cheats on someone to be with you he’ll feel free to cheat on you.” Maurey: “Nobody changes.” Heather Heidi: “The one thing worse than losing your first true love is not losing your first true love.” Ariel said, “That’s sad.” “But true.” “Corey should write another book from prison,” I said. “He could call it Don’t You Dare Borrow a Truck to Rob a Bank Then Park It in Front of a Surveillance Camera Until You’ve Read This!” Clyde said, “Kind of a long title, don’t you think?” “Yeah, well, he’ll be working off a long sentence.” JH SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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“Too bad we don’t have Yellowstone rearview mirrors,” says my ten- Lake’s Flat Mountain Arm year-old daughter, Casey, from is one of three the bow of our tandem sea kayak. sections of the We’re heading back to the lake limited to Signal Mountain boat ramp after hand-propelled watercraft, two days of camping on Grassy ensuring a Island in Jackson Lake at the foot peaceful paddle of Mount Moran. At 12,605 feet when the water and one of the marquee moun- calms in the evening. tains of Grand Teton National Park, it rises behind us more than 6,000 feet, omnipresent even as we paddle away. At camp, we were so close that we had to raise our heads to take it all in, including Skillet Glacier and the Black Dike, a giant basalt intrusion scarring its massive face. Casey had said it looked scary when we first arrived. Now she’s had a change of heart. It’s amazing what a little time in the wild can do to one’s perspective. We’re here with O.A.R.S., an outfitter with sole access to the camp on Grassy Island. With

On the Water Canoeing and sea kayaking offer watery glimpses of our wilderness. BY EUGENE BUCHANAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRADLY J. BONER

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west and across the silhouette of Grassy Island, marveling at our surroundings. As Moran gobbled up more and more of the sky, we soon rounded a point and arrived at Grassy Island, named when a fire deforested it one hundred years earlier. But now the lodgepole have grown back into a stand seemingly made for hammocks and, as Casey pointed out, Capture the Flag. Hiking, swimming, and day paddling, our three days on the island pass with the clouds and, unfortunately, the call of civilization eventually replaces the call of the wild. On our paddle back, the water is mirror-smooth and reflects everything from our paddle blades to the tops of the peaks behind us. Crossing Bearpaw Bay, an eagle traces our every stroke from atop a fir. That’s when Casey makes her rearview comment, which resonates with us all as we point our bows back toward Signal Mountain. We’ll have to leave the image of Moran, whose reflection is now rippling in our wake, in our memory banks until we can return. String Lake is a relatively shallow waterway connecting Jenny and Leigh lakes in Grand Teton National Park. Its calm waters make it a great place for families to kayak, canoe, and stand-up paddleboard.

Snake River: Oxbow Bend to Deadman’s Bar more than 2.5 million visitors annually, Grand Teton National Park is one of the ten most visited national parks in the nation. But while most visitors rely on drive-by vistas, those not afraid of getting a little wet can get a more intimate experience from the seat of a kayak or a canoe. Because Jackson Lake parallels the backbone of the Tetons, weather and wind can strike on a moment’s notice, which is why we opted for the protection of sea kayaks over canoes for our three108

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day journey. While my wife, Denise, paddled one tandem with our daughter, Brooke, thirteen, Casey and I commandeered the other. Two days earlier we pushed off into slight windchop, paddling straight toward the spine of the Tetons and our Grassy Island camp six miles away. While Casey giggled with each splash, we were glad for the reprieve of lunch on tiny Marie Island. Refreshed, refueled, and shoulders loosened from skipping rocks, we put back in and wavered our bows

Rare is the river trip with a more scenic backdrop than that you get from floating the Snake River from Oxbow Bend to Deadman’s Bar in Grand Teton National Park. Starting just east of Jackson Lake below sixty-five-foot-tall Jackson Lake Dam, this stretch takes you fifteen miles through and past some of the park’s best vistas. Fair warning: While this is not a stretch of whitewater, deadfall and obstacles in the river can make it more technical than its Class I-II rating would have you believe.

You’ll reach Oxbow Bend, a looping cutoff from the river’s main channel, after the first mile. You can either paddle into its calmer waters—where you’re likely to see teals, eagles, trumpeter swans, white pelicans, cormorants, and great blue herons—or stay in the main stem. Regardless, you’ll be rewarded with jaw-dropping views of Mount Moran. As you make your way downstream through braided channels lined with shoals, glaciated banks, and the abovementioned deadfall, you’ll likely also glimpse moose, elk, and antelope. If you’re lucky, you might also get to see a bison or attract the interest of playful river otters, which often cavort alongside canoes. At Deadman’s Bar, a sandy spit named for a mining-related triple murder that happened there in 1886, you can take out or keep going. It’s another ten miles of Class I-II water down to Moose.

YellOwStOne lake MosT people coMe to Yellowstone Lake to ogle its steam vents, geysers, and hot pools. You can see these from the road, but sea kayaks offer a much more intimate vantage. Like on Jackson Lake, sea kayaks work better than canoes here because of the lake’s winds, which can kick up without notice. Look no further than one of its campsite names—Breeze Point—for verification. The winds owe themselves to Yellowstone Lake’s size: Up to 20 miles long and 14 miles wide, it’s the biggest high-altitude lake on the continent, with more than 110 miles of shoreline. And at 7,773 feet, winds can be bitingly cold and dangerous. Note to the wise: Stick close to shore and shy away from open crossings. While you could take ten days to circumnavigate the lake, the time-challenged among us often settle for tooling around its three southern inlets, where motorboat use is restricted, over a

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couple of days. Seven miles long and four miles wide, the Southeast Arm is the largest of these three inlets and also the best spot to glimpse the snowcapped Absaroka Mountains. Campsites are available near the mouth of the Yellowstone River. Separated by a telltale ridge called The Promontory, just west is the South Arm. Eight miles long and three miles wide, it offers prime exploring and beachside camp spots. No matter where you go in this area, expect to see remnants of the 1988 fires, which burned fully a third of Yellowstone’s 2.2 million acres. There’s also a variety of birdlife, from ducks and geese to osprey, eagles, sandhill cranes, and trumpeter swans, as well as land-based wildlife like moose, elk, bison, and bear. Autumn’s colorful display provides a serene backdrop for a sunset canoe on Oxbow Bend in Grand Teton National Park.

lewiS and ShOShOne lakeS paddling, hiking, and hot springs are all part of the package when you paddle a four-day loop through and around

Yellowstone’s Lewis and Shoshone lakes. Unfortunately, so is wind (just ask those who’ve camped at Campsite #8R1, known as “Windy Point”). Most people start by crossing Lewis Lake to the Lewis River Channel early in the morning to avoid the afternoon breeze. From there, it’s an hour(ish) paddle among lily pads up the usually glassy and clear channel to 8,050-acre Shoshone Lake, one of the largest backcountry lakes in the country. Be forewarned: This channel may require some boat dragging, depending on flows. A good camp for the first night is #8Q4, reserved from the park headquarters beforehand. En route, count on seeing river otters, Bufflehead ducks and mergansers. Spend night two near the Shoshone Geyser Basin on the lake’s western end. Look to the Narrows for your final campsite. From here you’ll have a short crossing back to the south side and Lewis River Channel for the return home. Unlike Yellowstone Lake, canoes are appropriate for this trip, as the crossings aren’t as long. Canoes also allow you to bring such luxuries as coolers

and chairs. To avoid the mosquitoes of July and August, hit these lakes in late summer or early fall. JH

nUtS & bOltS GRand tetOn natiOnal PaRk: A variety of campsites exist on Jackson Lake, which you can reserve ahead of time. GTNP requires all boats to register for a permit: For nonmotorized craft, the fee is $10 for a seven-day permit and $20 for an annual permit. Info: www.nps.gov/ grte/planyourvisit/boat.htm. Find info on the O.A.R.S. trip at www.oars.com. Grand Teton Lodge Company and Signal Mountain Lodge both rent canoes and sea kayaks. YellOwStOne natiOnal PaRk: Yellowstone Park regulations require backcountry campsites to be reserved in advance. For more information and to reserve campsites (a lottery system is held every April, after which permits are available first-come, first-served), visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/ backcountrytripplanner.htm. Like in GTNP, Yellowstone requires all boats to have a permit. The cost is the same in both parks, and boat permits issued in GTNP are honored in Yellowstone, but owners must register their boats in Yellowstone and obtain a no-charge Yellowstone validation sticker.

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Outside Art The National Museum of Wildlife Art’s Sculpture Trail isn’t just about art. BY RICHARD ANDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN LEIGH BURKE

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when The naTional Museum of Wildlife Art completed its Sculpture Trail in December 2011, designer Walter Hood addressed the museum’s board of directors: “I think you should take many chances now, because you’re out of the building. I think things inside the building sometimes become precious, but outside you can let it go. Have some people do some crazy things every now and then. I think you have the space to do it.” Earlier this year, Hood—whose Berkeley, California, firm has won stacks of awards and accolades for its park and trail designs throughout California (he recently did the landscape architecture for the de Young Museum in Golden Gate

OPPOSITE PAGE: Sandy Scott’s Presidential Eagle guards the south end of the Sculpture Trail at the National Museum of Wildlife Art. LEFT: Yoga on the Trail is free. It happens at 10 a.m. every Thursday from July 11 to August 29.

Park) as well as in South Carolina, Virginia, and Georgia—said he was delighted and surprised to what extent the museum took his advice. “I’ve been blown away by how they really understood [the trail’s potential],” he says. “I programmed it for a myriad of ways. I love the yoga classes … and we didn’t think of it as a place where races would be.” It was only after the trail was finished that museum staff began to understand the possibilities of its new outdoor gallery. Of course, the three-quarter-mile trail gave the art museum the ability to display three-dimensional works by some of the museum’s favorite sculptors like Sandy Scott, Bart Walter, Simon Gudgeon, Richard Loffler, and Dan Ostermiller, especially large-scale pieces that won’t fit in any of the indoor galleries. What pretty much no one imagined, however, was how well the trail would

work for a host of other activities—concerts, parties, children’s art activities, and yes, races and yoga sessions—nor how serendipitously it would mesh with a segment of county bike and pedestrian pathway leading north from the town of Jackson that was finished at about the same time. “We all had our own visions,” says Jane Lavino, the Sugden Family Curator of Education, who recalls the idea of a sculpture trail being kicked around since the early 1990s, when the museum first moved to its site north of town overlooking the National Elk Refuge. “But when we were able to start walking it— experiencing the subtle rise and fall and turning corners and seeing different vistas with the sculpture against the backdrop—well, it surpassed our visions.” Ultimately, the James F. (Jim) Petersen Sculpture Trail—named and dedicated to

the late husband of museum board member Debbie Petersen, who donated funds for its construction—will accommodate thirty to thirty-five sculptures while providing room for temporary installations, too. This summer brings two such temporary exhibits: Traveling Trout (May 4 to October 6) and The Lost Bird Project (June 14 to November 10). Traveling Trout is a collaboration between the museum and Wyoming high schools, each of which received a fiberglass trout about a meter long from tail to nose that an artist or art class was invited to decorate. This summer, as many as thirty-five fish will be reunited, mounted on rods on the Sculpture Trail. The fish were judged by a panel of five at the Wyoming High School Arts Symposium, held in April in Casper. Winners’ schools received a cash prize to be used for their art programs. SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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The Lost Bird Project features about a half-dozen works by sculptor Todd McGrain. His large (six-foot, six hundred- to eight hundred-pound) sculptures of birds that have gone extinct— like the passenger pigeon, the great auk, and the Carolina parakeet—inhabit the amphitheater and are the center of June 13th’s Mix’d Media party, a popular program with live music, food and drink, art activities, and the chance to explore

Simon Gudgeon’s Isis sits at the northern end of the new trail.

quintet WindSync, for four free outdoor concerts; serving as the stage for theater group Riot Act Inc.’s production of The Frogs; and hosting NMWA’s monthly Mix’d Media art parties. “It worked great,” Lavino says. It worked so great, in fact, that WindSync is back again this summer

“I think things inside the building sometimes become precious, but outside you can let it go,” Hood says. the museum galleries. Held monthly, Mix’d Media parties are also planned for July 11 and August 8. Lavino remembers one of Hood’s early walks of the site and how, standing near the museum’s porte cochere outside the main entrance, “you could see the gears turning.” That brainstorm resulted in rerouting automobile traffic and reconfiguring the main entrance to create the amphitheater. “It was such a great thing to do, making that space,” Lavino says. “We’ve attempted many times to do outdoor programming,” but options were limited. The new amphitheater is buffered from the noise of traffic on Highway 89 below and sheltered from the sun, rain, and wind. During the trail’s first summer, it put the amphitheater through its paces, hosting the Grand Teton Music Festival’s Art in Nature artists-in-residence, the wind 114

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for an expanded, six-week residency (the quintet of twentysomething classical musicians is also performing at other outdoor venues around the valley). This year, Lavino says, the museum hopes to coordinate kids’ art activities with the music, “to have little kids painting to music,” in the easy-to-clean amphitheater. Also returning will be Yoga on the Trail and the “Running Wild” foot race. Set for August 10 this year, “Running Wild” raises money to support the museum’s $1,000 Art Leadership Scholarship for a local high school senior. Yoga was the idea of Amy Goicoechea, the museum’s associate curator of education, and was executed by Ponteir Sackrey, the museum’s Barnes Family director of development and marketing, who also teaches yoga and has close contacts in the Teton yoga community.

“We were in a meeting and [Amy] said we should have yoga on the trail,” Sackrey says. “We all said, ‘Wow.’ It’s such a great idea. There’s so much yoga going on outdoors, in surprising landscapes—there’s yoga going on in Central Park and in our [Grand Teton National] park filmed on YogaToday.com—it’s nice in our natural setting and the way we connect with nature.” Each of last summer’s eight free sessions was led by a different teacher and attracted a dozen or more students. This year’s yoga classes start at 10 a.m. Thursdays beginning July 11. In addition to Sackrey, instructors include Shoshana Kobrin and Lisa Laurie from Akasha Yoga, Bridget Lyons of Yoga Tejas, and Natasha Krochina of Inversion Yoga and Teton Yoga Shala. “I try to pull instructors from everywhere,” Sackrey says. “The style is very gentle, level one, a nice, gentle, stretchy class—we don’t do a lot of hairy, twisty poses.” Participants should bring their own mats, though instructors have a few that people can use for free. It seems like the museum has taken Hood’s words—“… outside you can let it go. Have some people do some crazy things every now and then”—to heart. “Who knows what else we’ll come up with,” Lavino says. “Or what the community will bring to us, because it has definitely become a community space.” JH

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nUtS & bOltS the ScUlPtURe tRail is part of the National Museum of Wildlife Art but, unlike the museum, is free to the public. (Not that the museum itself isn’t worth every cent of its $12 admission for adult nonmembers; members are free.) The Sculpture Trail sits just west—behind— the museum; both are on the main road, U.S. 89, into Jackson from the north. Cyclists and ambitious pedestrians can connect directly to the museum and trail via a community pathway that starts in front of the Jackson Hole and Greater Yellowstone Visitor Center, only several blocks north of the Town Square. The ride/walk from here to the Sculpture Trail is a bit over two miles. The museum is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. The gate to the museum’s parking areas (and the Sculpture Trail) doesn’t get locked until 8:30 p.m., though, so the trail is available after the museum closes. Check Wildlifeart.org or call 307/733-5771 for additional details on trail events and happenings.

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Hiking an Icon Whether you’ve got one day or five, head for the Teton Crest Trail. BY DINA MISHEV PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID STUBBS

Below Static Peak Divide, one of the most dramatic passes in the park, the Alaska Basin section of the Teton Crest Trail is one of the best stretches for sighting moose and bear. In July and August, the basin, which sits at elevations between 9,200 and 9,800 feet, explodes with wildflowers. 116

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due wesT of the Grand Teton, coming up to the 10,400-some-foot saddle of the grassy and gently sloping Hurricane Pass in Grand Teton National Park, I thought the best scenery of the Teton Crest Trail—Marion Lake, the Death Canyon Shelf, Alaska Basin, Sunset Lake—behind me. And then I turned down the pass into the South Fork of Cascade Canyon. A lake, pooled inside a ring of scree like gravy inside a mound of mashed potatoes, sat several hundred feet below. The water was a milky greenish-white I had never before seen in the Tetons, or anywhere else outside of Middle Earth, for that matter. Hanging above the lake was a bona fide glacier, complete with crevasses and terminal and lateral moraines. Rising behind the proglacial lake—a type of lake that exists due to the damming action of a glacier’s terminal moraine (and a term I learned after the fact thanks to Google and Wikipedia)—were the Grand, Middle, and South Tetons. I had ten miles to hike before the day was over, but still couldn’t tear myself away from taking photos. And when I

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finally did, it was only to make it several hundred feet down the trail. A switchback brought me to within a snowball’s throw of the glacier’s northern edge. Of course I had to cover those final feet to the glacier. And take more photos. Once I finally got going again in earnest, two miles down there was a black bear. He walked across the trail, not even bothering to look in my direction, one hundred feet in front of me. I unclipped a canister of bear spray from my pack’s hip belt, but it was unnecessary. The bear continued up the steep hillside beyond the trail and I continued down. Another several miles on, shortly after I had hit the Cascade Canyon fork and turned up the canyon’s northern arm, a moose stood in a thicket of willows just off the trail. He—and I know it was a he because of his huge paddles—paid me slightly more attention than the bear had. Mr. Moose stopped munching for several seconds as I passed. Between the two animals, there were more waterfalls than I could count.

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Don’t even get me started on the wildflowers. If there is a more scenic backpacking adventure than the Teton Crest Trail, I’ve yet to hear about it. (But I’d love to; email me.) Of course I’ll admit I’m partial. I’ve hiked or run the Crest Trail endto-end at least a dozen times and have done all the possible shorter iterations of it—and there are enough sections to fill a summer’s worth of weekends—many, many times. Schoolroom Glacier and its lake no longer surprise me, but they still stop me in my tracks. Sections of the Crest Trail existed prior to 1921. But it was Fritiof Fryxell, a geologist, climber, and Grand Teton National Park’s first naturalist (192934), who first envisioned a single trail running the length of the range. His earliest notes about it, in 1929 to park superintendent Samuel Woodring, described it as “a summit route tying together all of the proposed canyon feeder trails.” That summer, Woodring, as excited at the prospect of this trail as

Evening light paints the high peaks of the Tetons, including Buck Mountain at center, as seen from Alaska Basin, where the trail briefly leaves Grand Teton National Park and crosses into the Jedediah Smith Wilderness.

Fryxell, led a small group on horseback into the range to scout potential routes. The idea was to create a trail that took significant time for people to explore. Less than a decade later, the Civilian Conservation Corps had built the missing sections. While Woodring and Fryxell wanted the trail to be well constructed, it wasn’t designed to be easy. In 1940, National Park Service architect Howard Baker described the developed trails in the park as “not easy for everyone, but remain as an adventure.” And the Crest Trail is certainly an adventure. In its entirety, it covers about forty-five miles, ascending three (or four, depending on your route choice) passes, traversing the Death Canyon Shelf, crossing Alaska Basin and skirting Marion,

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MORE THAN JUST A GREENHOUSE

Several sections of the Crest Trail are among the park’s best places for wildflowers: Alaska Basin, around Marion Lake, the Death Canyon Shelf, and pictured here, Fox Creek Pass.

Sunset, and Holly lakes, and Lake Solitude. There are some steep sections, but the trail never disappears into a maze of boulders or scree. It hovers at an elevation of 10,000 feet or so. In Alaska Basin, it dips down to 9,200 feet. At Paintbrush Divide, it hits 10,700 feet. If you want to do the longest possible version of the trail, you start at the Phillips Pass trailhead halfway up Teton Pass and come out at String Lake via Paintbrush Canyon. The main Teton peaks pop into view about ten miles in, just as you climb out of the Marion Lake cirque. And then they never disappear for long. They do get closer and closer until you’re standing on Hurricane Pass staring due east at the precipitously steep, impossibly complex backsides of the Grand, Middle, and South Tetons. Reach out and touch them. Because of the particular geology of the Tetons, with canyons every four to six miles extending into the range like arthritic fingers, you don’t have to do the full Phillips Pass to String Lake (even if that’s what Fryxell imagined). Pick your canyon—Granite, Open, Death—head west and you will connect with the Crest Trail. The most popular way to do it might be from the top of the tram at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. This way—the one-hundred passenger tram carrying you and your pack up to 10,450 feet in eight minutes before you hike four miles and 1,000-some feet down to intersect the trail just south of Marion Lake in Granite Canyon—is physically

the easiest. My favorite section is Death Canyon to Static Peak Divide to Cascade Canyon. It’s about twenty-five miles and hits Alaska Basin and Hurricane Pass. There is no rulebook for doing the Crest Trail, though. That said, only crazy people hike it north to south. Do you really want to walk the length of one of the world’s most spectacular mountain ranges with your back to its big peaks? JH

nUtS & bOltS backcOUntRY camPinG PeRmitS are needed for most of the Crest Trail. (Alaska Basin, where the trail briefly leaves GTNP and dips into the Bridger-Teton National Forest, is the one exception.) If you plan on hiking the Crest Trail during July and August, when most people do it, it is advisable to submit an advance reservation request. This is done online between January 5 and May 15 at www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/bcres. htm and costs $25 per backcountry trip if your request is granted. The park only fills one-third of its backcountry spots with advance reservations, though. The rest are available on a first-come, firstserved basis one day before you start your hike. There is no cost for these permits. GTNP Moose permit desk: 307/739-3309 Crest Trail conditions are always weather-dependent, but it often remains hikeable into October. Expect snow on sections of the trail into July. Two summers ago, some snow patches never melted. The Earthwalk Press Grand Teton National Park Recreation Map includes the entirety of the Crest Trail and comes in a waterproof edition that has survived a decade of being crammed into various backpack compartments and pant pockets.

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Best of

body & soul

Your Brain on Jackson Hole

“Man is an outdoor animal. He toils at desks and talks of ledgers and parlors and art galleries but the endurance that brought him these was developed by rude ancestors, whose claim to kinship he would scorn and whose vitality he has inherited and squandered. He is what he is by reason of countless ages of direct contact with nature.” — James H. McBride, MD, Journal of the American Medical Association, 1902

Scenery and fresh air might be just what the doctor ordered.

AdrenAline junkie. Get your fix. That’s how people often describe the exploits of Jackson-based adventurer and extreme snowboarder Stephen Koch. Sure, Koch says, his heart races a little when he first straps on his snowboard before an “extreme” descent. He classifies extreme as anything where “you can die fairly easily if you make a mistake or even if you don’t make a mistake.” When he drops into a steep, committing couloir and makes the first turns—often the most critical turns of the day—his legs are cold and stiff. “Many times that’s when my heart rate spikes,” Koch says. “I have to breathe

BY REBECCA HUNTINGTON

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TRAvIS GARNER

Spending time in the mountains can be a peaceful and rewarding outing, but one doesn’t have to climb difficult peaks to draw inspiration from the beauty Jackson Hole has to offer.

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to calm down, or consciously do some calming breathing to relax. Do some selftalk, tell myself, ‘It’s going to be OK. This is what I came for.’ Positive affirmations.” Often that flutter of fear is shortlived. Koch acknowledges the danger, knowing that missing a turn or hitting a rock could be catastrophic. Then he begins to carve down the mountainside. Legs warm up, and he hits his groove. “The nerves fall away, and the fear tends to fall away,” he says. “It’s a state of peace.” No one would accuse Koch of having squandered the vitality passed on to him by the “rude ancestors” McBride mentions above. He uses it to test himself and, even though what he does terrifies most of the rest of the population, to also find peace. While Jackson Hole has plenty of extreme terrain and test pieces for the likes of Koch, we’ve also got simple walks in the woods, hot springs to soak in, and scenic float trips on the river. And it turns out recent scientific studies show that spending time in nature—no extremeness necessary—can reduce psychological stress, depressive symptoms, and hostility, while at the same time improving cognitive function and sleep. Welcome to Jackson Hole, where the beauty is more than skin-deep. It goes all the way to your brain.

All ExErcisE is Not crEAtEd EquAl Your BrAin on Nature, the 2012 book by Eva M. Selhub, MD, and Alan C. Logan, ND, reports that, starting in the early 1990s, Dr. Yoshifumi Miyazaki of Japan’s Chiba University began studying the effects of walking in a forest, Shinrinyoku in Japanese, which translates literally as “forest bathing,” versus on a treadmill. He had subjects do the same amount of exercise—forty minutes— but in different places: a lab or the woods. The woods walks were associated with a greater increase in mood and feelings of vigor as compared to the lab walks. More objectively, Miyazaki tested levels of the stress hormone cortisol in both groups and found the group that walked outside had lower cortisol levels. Subsequent studies—both objective and subjective— have confirmed this. Not all exercise is created equal. It’s a good thing Jackson Hole is covered with woods.

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Trees and plants secrete aromatic chemicals called phytoncides that impact our cognition, mental state, and immune systems in ways science is only beginning to understand: Experimental studies have shown that phytoncides can lower the production of stress hormones, reduce anxiety, and increase pain threshold; higher phytoncides cause increased production of anticancer proteins in the blood. The opposite end of the spectrum? The aroma of fast food and pastries has been shown to increase drivers’ willingness to speed along with their frustration levels.

Of course, any exercise is good. Research from around the world definitively shows exercise, both acute and long-term and indoors and outdoors, improves cognitive functioning and also acts as an antidepressant and antianxiety agent that improves mental outlook, helps with mild to moderate depression, and decreases sensitivity to anxiety and panic attacks. Exercising in a place like Jackson builds on this. A study in a 2011 issue of Health & Place showed that, in middleage adults, a one-hour rural walk improved mental outlook and was more cognitively restorative than an urban walk of the same duration. Another study reports that a group walking outdoors chose a faster pace, had more positive thoughts and perceived less overall exertion than a group walking on a treadmill. It seems that if there wasn’t scenery to distract you, you’d walk the six miles around Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park faster than you’d walk six miles on the treadmill. And the six miles around Jenny Lake would feel easier than the six miles on a treadmill. The walk around Jenny Lake will also boost your immune system: A study showed woodsy walks increase the amount of intracellular anticancer proteins and the number of antiviral cells, as well as the functional activity of these cells, more than a nonwoodsy walk. If exercise is off the table, fear not. Warm water, specifically floating in it, has been shown to reduce muscular tension, cardiac rate, and levels of cortisol, and also improve mental state. About an hour south of downtown Jackson in the Bridger-Teton National Forest, Granite Hot Springs keeps its Civilian Conservation Corps-built pool around 98 degrees all summer long.

Finding Flow Hungarian psychology professor Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi came up with the notion of “flow.” A leading researcher on positive psychology, he details his theory in his seminal work, Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience. Csikszentmihalyi concludes that people are happiest when in a state of flow, which he defines as being so involved in an activity that nothing else seems to matter. The theory jives with Koch’s experience. In order to feel flow, Csikszent124

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mihalyi says the challenge of the flow task, say climbing the Grand Teton or making an extreme snowboard descent, must match the level of skill of the climber or snowboarder. Someone who tries to climb or snowboard way beyond their abilities will likely experience anxiety and worry instead of flow. Alternatively, climbers pursuing routes well below their abilities may feel relaxed but may also get bored, according to Csikszentmihalyi’s theory. In an interview with Wired magazine, Csikszentmihalyi described flow as “being completely involved in an activity for its own sake. The ego falls away. Time flies. Every action, movement, and thought follows inevitably from the previous one, like playing jazz.” Dr. Bruce Hayse agrees that challenging oneself in the outdoors can allow us to reach a Zen-like state. “It takes you out of being yourself,” says Hayse, who, when not running his family practice office in downtown Jackson, embraces outdoor adventure, including rafting some of the most challenging rivers in Africa, where armed conflict often makes the terrain even more hazardous than the resident crocodiles. Pursuit of adrenaline sports and extreme adventure, Hayse says, can achieve results similar to meditation, “taking you into a nonpersonal experience. You’re transcending your own ego, and basically, it’s our own ego that makes us unhappy.”

Think About It There’s little doubt more Americans are suffering from mental fatigue today than at most any other time in history. We spend upwards of forty hours a week watching TV and surfing the Internet and can’t disconnect from work: 61 percent of Americans today check e-mail while on vacation. Of the 151 countries included in a Gallup World Poll, we’re the fifth most-stressed. (Stress is one of the largest underlying factors of mental fatigue.) In the Stress in America survey, which was conducted on behalf of the American Psychological Association and released in January 2012, 41 percent of U.S. adults self-reported they were fatigued. Once mental fatigue sets in, recent studies have shown that our ability to ignore irrelevant information is decreased, we magnify the unimportant and are more prone to distraction. Eventually,

mental fatigue can lead to burnout, anxiety, depression, and poor health. And then anxiety and depression can lead to deficits in attention, memory, and information processing. It’s a road you don’t want to travel. Since stress is one of the biggest factors of mental fatigue—and spending time in nature has been shown to lower the stress hormone cortisol—nature can help you avert mental fatigue. Avoiding mental fatigue improves your cognitive

There are about one thousand miles of trails in Jackson Hole, including paved pathways; scenic, abandoned service roads; lift-accessed single track; and remote, rarely traveled wilderness trails. health. A walk along the Snake River dike between Jackson and Wilson won’t make you smarter, but it might make you feel like you are. There’s science to back this up, too: At least one study has shown that a hike (rather than a walk in the city) elevates the neurosteroid dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), which naturally declines as we age, and, which, when administered supplementally, has been shown to improve cognitive functioning in adults. And then, exercise also helps our brains age better. Exercise could be just the boost we need to stave off, or at least delay, dementia, according to Dr. Martha Stearn of St. John’s Institute for Cognitive Health. “There’s something about exercise, and we don’t understand it, that actually creates new brain cells in the hippocampus.” The hippocampus plays an important role in short-term memory. In Alzheimer’s disease, the most common form of dementia, the hippocampus is one of the first regions of the brain to suffer damage. Even running or walking on a boring treadmill can be good for your hippocampus, Stearn says. Better though, is to take it outside and combine it with two other known preventatives— learning something new and socializing. “Combining these things is like prevention on steroids,” Stearn says. Our recommendations for super brain-boosting exercise in the valley? SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Take a hike with a ranger in Grand Teton National Park. From early June through Labor Day, ranger-led activities in GTNP abound and include lessons about the park’s wildlife, plants, history, and geology. (For a schedule of these, see the park’s newspaper or website, nps.org/ grte.) Or maybe you can try your hand at bird watching. The Northern Prairie Wildlife Research Center has recorded more than 305 species of birds in the valley. Perhaps this outdoor hobby, pursued with a buddy, could be just the ticket to keeping your mind sharp.

Putting it all Together For novelist Tina Welling, the physical and cognitive benefits of this valley are intrinsically linked. A self-described dependent and indecisive person, Welling says she found her creative footing in the Tetons. She didn’t stray far from her husband or children until she started wandering farther and farther up mountain canyons. As short walks evolved into daylong solo hikes, Welling felt both 126

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scared and exhilarated. In a conversation guide for her novel, Crybaby Ranch, published by NAL Accent, Welling explains finding solace and pleasure in her outdoor adventures this way: “The love of the natural world became another relationship for me. And this relationship supported a whole new sense of who I was and who I could become. As it turned out, I felt happy with my own company, and I became confident that I could take care of myself.” Inspired by the mountains to start writing, Welling has published three novels: Crybaby Ranch, Fairy Tale Blues, and Cowboys Never Cry. All are set in Jackson Hole. She’s now seeking a publisher for a new nonfiction work titled Writing Wild: A Creative Partnership with Nature. “The wild beauty of the Tetons opens the experience of interconnectedness for me. I realize my personal creative energy and the Earth’s creative energy draw from the same source, and that it’s endless and abundant,” she says. Welling takes hikes throughout Grand Teton National Park and surrounding wilderness areas. The

BRAdlY j. BONER

Exercising outdoors (versus doing the same activity indoors) has been shown to be associated with greater increases in mood and feelings of vigor, and also lower levels of the stress hormone cortisol.

destination, she says, rarely matters. “My favorite thing outdoors is just being there,” she says. “So I hike until I’m alone, then set up an afternoon camp with my lunch, journal, book, and my knitting and just hang out, mostly doing nothing but soaking up the silence and beauty.” Science aside, there may be a deceptively simple answer to what drives our pursuit of backcountry bliss, whether heading into the Tetons for death-defying first descents or to simply soak up the natural splendor: It just feels good. final noTe: Much of the research in this article was taken from the Selhub/ Logan book, Your Brain On Nature. The authors maintain a wonderfully comprehensive list of references and sources online at www.yourbrainonnature.com. JH — Dina Mishev contributed to this article. SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Best of

nightlife

jAClYN BOROwSkI

The Hills Are Alive With Music There are two outdoor concert series this summer ... and they’re both free! BY AllISON ARTHUR

Justin Townes Earle performs during a JacksonHoleLive concert in July 2012 at the base of Snow King Mountain. 128

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lasT summer, i joined thousands of my neighbors on the ball field at the base of Snow King Mountain. It wasn’t a game we had come to watch, but a concert: Robert Randolph & The Family Band, who have opened for Eric Clapton and Dave Matthews and performed on the Late Show with David Letterman. I checked my bike at the valet—there were hundreds already neatly lined up—then strolled over to the frozen drinks stand. A mojito in hand, I began the search for a pop-up tent/base camp my friends had established earlier. Finding it among moms and dads chasing toddlers and twentysomethings with hacky sacks, while stopping every five feet to say hi to a familiar face, took some time. As soon as I finally sat down, I was handed a plate of pad thai someone had bought at Teton Thai’s food stall. What more was left to do but relax, catch up with friends, and listen to music as another hot August day in Jackson Hole wound down? The valley has had the Grand Teton Music Festival performing more formal music concerts for more than fifty years. Today, we’ve also got concerts by the likes of Randolph; Justin Townes Earle, who, in 2011, won an

Americana Music Award for Song of the Year (“Harlem River Blues”); MC Yogi, whose “Beastie Boys-meets-KrishnaDas” music followed a free outdoor yoga session; and SEE-I, a nine-piece funk and soul reggae band from Washington, D.C. These kinds of concerts—outdoors and featuring music other than classical—are a much newer and welcome addition to summertime in Jackson Hole. Even five years ago they were few and far between.

“The need is for the shows to be accessible and family friendly; we like to have a different type of music every week. I try and have a variety so everybody’s tastes are covered.” — Dom Gagliardi Jacksonites like to think they’re on the happening side of Teton Pass, but Victor and Driggs in Idaho have had a free outdoor summer concert series since 2005, Music on Main (put on by the Teton Valley Foundation). Jeff Potter, Music On Main’s executive director from 2009 through 2010, says, “I grew up in Jackson and wondered why someone was not doing this here.” So in 2012, he and Shannon McCormick founded JacksonHoleLive, a nonprofit that puts on the outdoor summer concert series at the base of Snow King. In 2010, Dom Gagliardi, the fortysomething impresario behind The Village Café in Teton Village and The Rose in downtown Jackson—and the owner of the Pink Garter Theatre—partnered with the Teton Village Association and the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort to put on Concerts on the Commons, another outdoor summer concert series, but in Teton Village rather than in town. And not only does Jackson Hole finally have an outdoor concert scene of its own, but both JacksonHoleLive and Concerts on the Commons performances are free and take place on different days of the week so as not to compete with each other for attendance. JacksonHoleLive hosted six shows last year. In addition to Earle and Randolph, the nonprofit brought The

Welcome Back to the new Teton Reserve

Play, Stay, Shop & Dine 208-787-4224 www.tetonreserve.com

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price chambers price chambers

In addition to music and an interesting selection of vendors offering everything from pizza to ice cream to clothing, there is a designated kids’ area and a bike valet operated by Friends of Pathways at JacksonHoleLive concerts.

TOP: Heather Mathews and Mike Hodes dance to the swinging songs of Billy Joe and the Dusty 45s during the 2011 Concerts on the Commons season in Teton Village. BOTTOM: Four-time Grammy nominee Robert Randolph makes his pedal steel guitar scream for the audience.

Dunwells, of Leeds, England; the rock ’n’ roll duo Boom Chick; and Sister Sparrow and the Dirty Birds’ modern spin on classic soul to the base of Snow King. A local band—Elk Attack, Lazy Eyes, Isaac Hayden & Friends, Whisky Mornin’— opened each show. As the season progressed, attendance increased and was up to more than three thousand people by the time Randolph wrapped up the series in late August. JacksonHoleLive is designed, says Potter, to offer a variety of genres of music in a family friendly atmosphere. In addition to an interesting selection of vendors (about twelve for each show offering everything from pizza to ice cream to clothing), there is a designated kids’ 130

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area and a bike valet operated by Friends of Pathways. McCormick and Potter both say their nonprofit couldn’t operate without the incredible community support they have received through sponsorship and volunteers. Earlier this year, Snake River Brewing, which also supported the series last summer, signed on as the title sponsor for JacksonHoleLive for the next three years. Auggie Katzer, director of sales and marketing for the award-winning local brewery, says the organization got behind the series because it “offers the town something that we have never had before. It gives people a way to relieve stress and creates a sense of community. It’s a time during the week where

we can get away from the hustle and bustle of summer and unifies Jackson as having more of a music scene.” Out in Teton Village, Gagliardi organizes the events and books the music for Concerts on the Commons. A stage is set up in front of a naturally sloped hillside, which offers a grassy area for lounging around. Forgot your blanket? There are some rock benches, too. In the afternoon, a nearby pop-up water fountain allows kids to play and cool off. Gagliardi is having much more success with these free concerts than he did with bigger names—Willie Nelson and Bob Dylan, among others—he’s brought to the valley for ticketed shows. “It’s just an economics thing,” says Gagliardi. “Not everyone feels that music is a necessity; it is an added bonus.” Enter his free shows. Concerts on the Commons feature up-and-coming bands rather than major headliners and are a great way to offer Jackson Hole live music in a way that will bring people out. “We aren’t trying to get 5,000 people here,” says Gagliardi. Average attendance for the shows is around 1,500. McCormick concurs, saying, “I think it is safe to say that when you are doing an outdoor ticketed event with a national touring artist, there is a lot of risk. Funding outdoor, all-ages shows and allowing them to be free makes things a lot easier to ensure attendance.” At the Pink Garter, which has grown into the valley’s pre-eminent spot for indoor live music, Gagliardi scales back the number of summer concerts because of the outdoor concert scene. Last winter, he averaged two concerts a week—including Public Enemy, Deer Tick, and Leftover Salmon. This summer, he plans on generally only one national act per week. In past years, Concerts on the Commons have included acts such as JJ Grey & Mofro, Sierra Leone Refugee All Stars, Wanda Jackson, and the Mother Hips. “The need is for the shows to be accessible and family friendly, and we like to have a different type of music every week,” Gagliardi says. This summer, Concerts on the Commons include performances by Shooter Jennings, Ben Taylor, and Everest. JacksonHoleLive shows include Lukas Nelson & Promise of the Real and Young Dubliners. Find the full schedule at JacksonHoleLivemusic.com and www.jacksonhole. com/concerts-on-the-commons.html. JH

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End of the road historic guest ranch converted to a family compound, this ranch enjoys classic improvements, complete privacy and excellent access. Situated in the Big Creek Drainage and almost totally surrounded by National Forest this impeccably maintained jewel is offered turnkey. $7,750,000

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Challenging Golf. Relaxing Venue.

Public Welcome. With the Tetons as your backdrop, test your skills on this Robert Trent Jones II Championship golf course. Enjoy our casual après golf (or après hike) menu featuring interpretations of traditional bistro fare. For tee times or reservations, phone 307-733-3111 or visit jhgtc.com.

Best of

dining

Dinner and a View Area restaurants serve up a feast for the stomach and soul. BY KELSEY DAYTON

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The views never get old. No matter how long you’ve lived in Jackson Hole, or how many times you’ve visited, the Tetons are transfixing. And then there are also the Gros Ventres, with Sleeping Indian and Jackson Peak, and the lakes and rivers seemingly everywhere. Some of the best views of all these come from the panoramic windows and expansive decks of the area’s restaurants. I’ve taken countless photos of the Tetons, from every angle, and yet my jaw still slackens when I walk into the Mural

The Deck at the top of the Bridger Gondola at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort affords spectacular views of the south end of Jackson Hole and the Gros Ventre Mountains to the east, offering an alfresco dining experience like no other in the valley.

BRADLY J. BONER

The Deck

Room at Jackson Lake Lodge and see 12,605-foot Mount Moran slamming down into the western shore of Jackson Lake through the restaurant’s wall of windows. Maybe there will also be a moose in the willows in the foreground. (And if there isn’t, I know I can get one’s likeness in my waffles.) And sipping martinis while staring at the Tetons from The Granary at Spring Creek? I’ve never felt so glamorous. Live jazz fills the room and the week melts away as the sky changes colors and the mountains glow.

With views like these, it’d be easy for kitchens to relax. What diner is really going to notice or care if the elk tenderloin medallions are a tad overcooked or the accompanying demi-glace is slightly washed out when the Tetons are in the background? Our favorite restaurantswith-a-view don’t relax, though. If anything, they work harder to ensure what’s on the plate is as engaging as what’s outside the windows. And that holds true for desserts, too.

Restaurants here have après-ski fare down, well, cold. Thankfully, the tradition doesn’t disappear in the summer. If there’s a better place to enjoy a late-afternoon drink and snack than The Deck at 9,095 feet at the top of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Bridger Gondola, I’ve yet to discover it. The resort’s famed Corbet’s Couloir run isn’t nearly so impressive (or noticeable) when not filled with snow, but the columbine, paintbrush, and lupine covering the Headwall—a hike-to, black-diamond run in the winter—just above The Deck more than makes up for it. Before or after your drinks and meal, take a walk on the resort’s new(ish) Cirque hiking trail. Starting right at The Deck, the trail climbs up through these wildflowers and into stands of whitebark pine. Now in its fifth season, if you’re not at The Deck within fifteen minutes of its 4 p.m. opening, you’ll be waiting for a table, hovering around the stone patio’s perimeter looking for signs any seated party is about to leave, which doesn’t happen often. After all, The Deck comes by its name honestly: All seating is outside. Picture relaxing in the sun on the side of a mountain with the valley stretching out below, the Gros Ventres rolling out to the east, and servers delivering Kobe beef sliders, portobello mushroom fries, and custom cocktails like the Huckleberry HowPow made with huckleberry vodka and garnished with huckleberries. The Deck’s happy hour, which goes from 4 to 6 p.m. and has two-for-one drinks and changing food specials, is another reason people don’t leave after snagging seats. “Being on the mountain and experiencing the view from elevation gives you such a better vantage point,” general manager Travis Raffetto says. You can’t see the Tetons, but “it gives you a really great perspective on how Jackson is laid SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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out.” This view is so stunning The Deck is closed Saturdays because it’s booked with weddings. The Deck is open daily, except Saturday, from 4 to 9 p.m. between the last week of June and mid-September. Note that all the seating is outdoors, so dress appropriately. Reservations aren’t taken, but you can call 307/739-2675 for information.

wall. Based on the theme “The Fur Traders and Trappers of the Early West,” John D. Rockefeller commissioned Roters, a professor of art at Syracuse University in New York, to paint the panoramas in 1955. Roters finished in 1959. Serving breakfast between 7 and 9:30 a.m., lunch between 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m., and dinner from 5:30 to 9 p.m. Reservations recommended, especially for dinner. 307/543-3100

and features locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. There are always regional specialties—buffalo prime rib or rack of lamb—that come fresh from the lodge’s on-site butcher shop. (There’s an on-site bakery, too.) And the menu won’t ever change so much that longtime favorites like the Southwest molassesspiced elk loin (dinner) or the buffalo

COURTESY PHOTO

The Granary Restaurant & Lounge

Mural Room Jackson Lake Lodge Just when you think you’ve seen and fully appreciated the Tetons, you enter the Mural Room. Even locals have difficulty keeping their jaws off the ground as the vision outside its windows reveals itself—Jackson Lake, Mount Moran, and if the stars are really aligned, moose in the willows in front. It might be one of the best panoramas in any national park in the country. There are white linen tablecloths at dinner, but it’s not unusual to see diners seated near the windows peering through binoculars. (In addition to moose, other animals like elk, bears, and sometimes even wolves, can be spotted around the flats. Binoculars definitely help.) Inside, the restaurant seats several hundred and still manages an air of elegance. The menu is constantly changing, 134

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Jackson Lake Lodge’s Mural Room serves up views of the entire Teton Range.

carne asada (lunch) disappear. Unusual for fine dining restaurants, the Mural Room serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. And the views at each meal are as different as the menus. Sunset is obviously spectacular, but so is early morning, as the mountains wake with the light of day, a pink glow stretching across the granite peaks until they shine. A morning meal here also means a generous buffet. It has the usual egg and bacon offerings and also moose waffles— delicious and imprinted with the shape of the largest species of the deer family— topped with fresh huckleberries and house-made whipped cream. While the view is spectacular, you’ll notice this restaurant isn’t named “The Teton Room.” Carl Roters painted murals—ten panels stretching a total of eighty feet—now hung on the eastern

Visit The Granary on a summer evening and you might notice people waiting. They have reservations and there are plenty of empty tables in the restaurant, but still they wait. Perched at 7,200-some feet on the side of West Gros Ventre Butte, The Granary’s southern and western walls are windows that, come evening, arguably have the most sunset-iful views of the Tetons in the valley. People wait past their reservation times because they want window seats. (The Granary doesn’t reserve specific tables.) The Granary isn’t a huge space, so even tables in the middle have views, but seasoned diners know a table at the windows is worth the wait. Nowhere else in the valley do you get the same straighton look at the Tetons. “I can’t tell you how often people think they’re setting their fork or glass back on their table and miss because they’re looking out the windows,” says a former server at the restaurant. “Sometimes it’d even happen to us servers.” If you think ahead and pack a light jacket—or eat fast and finish before the sun fully sets and temperatures dip—an open-air deck off the upstairs lounge seats forty and offers the entire restaurant menu. Turn your gaze out instead of up and you might spot elk, mule deer, or, more rarely, a pine marten. All of these live up on the butte. Look down at Mead Ranch, where Wyoming’s current governor, Matt Mead, grew up. It remains a working cattle ranch. But you don’t have to just look at animals. Wild game dominates The Granary’s menu. At dinner, the Cajun-styled elk with a New Orleans butter sauce and organic carrots is hard to beat. The bison fillet is popular, as is the Wild Bowl of Pasta—sauteed elk and bison tips, garlic, shallots, and wild mushrooms. And

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Elk Island Cruise Breakfast and dinner cruises on Jackson Lake provide local history and stories about the area and a meal on Elk Island, smack in the shadow of Mount Moran. Dine on eggs, Idaho river trout, and pancakes made with a secret ingredient for breakfast. Enjoy cowboy steaks, corn on the cob, and fruit cobbler for dinner. Cruises start May 24 and run through September 15, depending on water levels. Breakfast cruises run Saturday through Thursday at 7:15 a.m., and dinner boats leave at 5:15 p.m. Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. 800/628-9988 Dornan’s The deck at Dornan’s in Moose is the perfect place to point out where you were hours ago, or plan future adventures while eating freshmade pizzas and pasta. Don’t be afraid to ask the bartenders downstairs to borrow a pair of binoculars. Open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. seven days a week until Labor Day, then hours are weather-dependent; the restaurant closes in November. 307/733-2415 ext. 204 Couloir The inside version of The Deck serves up a four- or five-course prix-fixe menu in an intimate setting. Dinner is served Sunday through Friday with the first seating at 5:30 p.m. and the last at 8:30 p.m. Reservations recommended. 307/739-2675 Nora’s Fish Creek Inn Even before the James Beard Foundation recognized it in 2012 as one of “America’s Classics,” locals from ski bums to cowboys came to Nora’s Fish Creek Inn in Wilson for breakfast. On weekdays, breakfast is served 6:30 to 11:30 a.m.; weekends, 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. on weekdays; no lunch on weekends. Dinner starts at 5:30 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. 307/733-8288 136

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PRICE CHAMBERS

A Few Other Views truffle fries are always a good idea, as is a cocktail, especially since The Granary does on-site liquor infusions like pineapple vodka (used in its pineapple martini). If you get addicted to the view (or the cocktails), The Granary Lounge has a daily happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. with burger specials and beer discounts. There’s live music Wednesday through Saturdays—Friday nights it’s live jazz from 7 to 10 p.m., while on Saturdays, pianist/conductor/composer Pam Phillips plays the restaurant’s baby grand piano. Serving breakfast from 7 to 11 a.m., lunch (starting in mid-June) noon to 2 p.m., and dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. in the restaurant and until 10 p.m. in the lounge seven days a week. Reservations recommended for dinner. 307/732-8112

Pizzeria Caldera There are some foods that are distinctly summer foods and others that are meant to warm you on a winter day. Then there is pizza. “Pizza is universal,” says Chris Hansen, who founded Pizzeria Caldera with wife Miga Rossetti in a second-floor space with a deck overlooking the Town Square. “It’s a year-round food people will eat any time of day or night.” Factor in Caldera’s sunny deck with excellent people watching and you’ve got one of the valley’s most popular casual eateries. Caldera’s Napoletana-style pizza— thin crust that is crispy on the bottom, chewy on the inside and flavorful from a long, cold proof—uses as many locally sourced ingredients as possible and comes with both unusual and classic toppings.

Enjoy a slice of gourmet pizza and prime people watching on Pizzeria Caldera’s deck overlooking the Town Square.

The latter includes pepperoni, different sauces, and veggies. The former includes house-made bison sausage, clams, and pancetta (not all on the same pizza). And then there are Caldera’s views. While the Tetons are beautiful and the valley’s wildlife majestic, no summer trip here is complete without some people watching. With a twenty-two-seat outdoor deck overlooking the Town Square, there’s no better people-watching spot than Caldera. Over three million cars pass through the square between Memorial Day and Labor Day. There’s no official statistic on the number of Town Square pedestrians, but ask any local and they’ll likely say it feels double the number of cars. And then there are the historic walking tours that hit the square, the nightly shootout, locals strumming guitars, and the elk antler arches. Caldera’s deck overlooks the busiest of the four arches. (Yes, one of the four arches is much more popular for photos than the others.) Watch as visitors jockey for position and their turn to pose for photos. Almost as much fun is marveling at massive RVs executing seemingly impossible maneuvers (or not pulling them off and blocking traffic) on the crowded streets below. If you aren’t feeling pizza, try the Caprese salad, which is only on Caldera’s summer menu and which, for the first time this summer, will feature housemade mozzarella. And if you aren’t feeling food at all, Caldera has a rotating roster of Snake River Brewing beers on tap. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Yes, this is a pizza place, but we still recommend reservations for dinner. 307/201-1472 JH

Best of

dining out

Restaurant

Location

Phone

Breakfast

307-733-5474

(On Town Square C)

Lunch

The Bunnery Bakery & Restaurant

Jackson

Café Bohème

Jackson

307-733-5282

Cafe Genevieve

Jackson

307-732-1910

Dinner

$ $$/$$$

Fine Dining Restaurant Group The Kitchen

Jackson

307-734-1633

Il Villaggio Osteria

Teton Village

307-739-4100

Roadhouse Restaurant and Brewery

Teton Village Road

307-739-0700

$/$$

Rendezvous Bistro

Jackson

307-739-1100

$/$$$ $$

Four Seasons Resort

$/$$$

Teton Village

Four Seasons Lobby Lounge

Teton Village

307-732-5000

The Handle Bar

Teton Village

307-732-5157

Westbank Grill

Teton Village

307-732-5620

$$$

Grand Teton Lodge Company

Grand Teton National Park

Blue Heron Bar

Jackson Lake Lodge

307-543-2811

Jenny Lake Dining Room

Jenny Lake Lodge

307-733-4647

$$$

John Colter Cafe Court

Colter Bay

307-543-2811

Mural Room Dining

Jackson Lake Lodge

307-543-2811

$/$$

$$$

Pioneer Grill

Jackson Lake Lodge

307-543-2811

$/$$

Ranch House

Colter Bay

307-543-2811

$$/$$$

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

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$$$

Teton Village

Corbet’s Cabin

Aerial Tram Summit

307-739-2688

Couloir

Bridger Gondola Summit

307-739-2675

$$$

The Deck

Bridger Gondola Summit

307-739-2675

Nick Wilson’s

Next to the Aerial Tram

307-739-2738

The Tin Can Cantina

Base of Bridger Gondola

$ $

Leek’s Marina and Pizzeria

Grand Teton National Park

307-543-2494

McDonald’s of Jackson

Jackson

307-733-7444

Million Dollar Cowboy Steakhouse

Jackson

307-733-4790

Nani’s Cucina Italiana

Jackson

307-733-3888

$$/$$$

Nikai

Jackson

307-734-6490

North Grille

JH Golf & Tennis Club

307-733-7788

The Rose

Jackson

307-733-1500

The White Buffalo Club

Jackson

888-256-8182

$$$

The Rustic Bar

Jackson

307-733-2357

The Silver Dollar Bar and Grill

Jackson

Signal Mountain Lodge

Grand Teton National Park

$/$$

$$$ $/$$

307-732-3939

$$$

$/$$

$/$$$

Trapper Grill

Grand Teton National Park

307-543-2831 Ext. 220

The Peaks

Grand Teton National Park

307-543-2831 Ext. 220

Snake River Brewing Company

Jackson

307-739-2337

Snake River Grill

Jackson

307-733-0557

Spur Restaurant & Bar

Teton Village

307-732-6932

Terra Café

Teton Village

307-739-4025

Teton Pines Restaurant

Teton Village Road

307-733-1005

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

$$/$$$

$$/$$$ $/$$

$/$$ $$$

$$/$$$ $$$

Kid’s TakeCredit Cards Cocktails Menu Out s

Description

R R R

The bakery that’s a restaurant

J J J

s s s s

J J J J

R R R R

Modern American cuisine in the heart of Jackson

s C J C s J C

R R R

Fresh sashimi specialty rolls

C C C

C C C C

Locals’ favorite for breakfast & lunch! Free Wi-Fi Serving inspired home-cooked classics

Wood oven-fired pizzas, house-made pasta Eclectic roadhouse fare with frequent live music Locals’ favorite!

An American pub & beer hall Mountain steakhouse with signature side dishes

C C C C C C

s s R s J J R s J

Panoramic Teton views

C C C C C C C C C C C C C C C

s s s s s

Top of the world waffles

C C C C C C C

J J J J R J R J R J R J J R J R R

s s s s s s s J s J s s s s s s s

J J J J J J J

Casual dining Mexican restaurant Panoramic Teton views 1950s-style service Western atmosphere for the family

Contemporary fine dining at 9,095 ft. Outside happy hour and alfresco kitchen Pub favorites & vibrant après-ski mecca Authentic tacos, burritos, chips and guacamole Pizza, sandwiches, salads on Jackson Lake Great tastes, affordable choices Elegant dining with a Western flair Authentic regional Italian cuisine Jackson’s favorite sushi bar Stunning views, casual bistro fare

Classically inspired cocktail lounge

R R R

Modern American steakhouse cuisine

R R R R R R R

Casual fare served with a great view

Fireside lounge with amazing seasonal deck Regional cuisine, live music, happy hour

Sustainable Western bistro-style menu Award-winning brews and incredible food Locals’ choice for rustic elegance Serving elevated mountain cuisine Coffee, breakfast and lunch Spectacular setting, creative cuisine Average entree; $= under $15, $$= $16-20, $$$= $21+ SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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AN INSPIRING SPACE tO REGROuP ANd CREAtE

Menu options nourishing for body and soul

Crepes, Eggs, Burritos, Sandwiches, Paninis, Wraps, Salads, Soups, Quesadillas, Organic Coffee, and more

Inspired Home Cooking

Brunch Daily Happy Hour Dinner Nightly

Mon–Fri : 6:30 am–4 pm • Sat–Sun : 7 am–3 pm Call for evening hours, catering, special events

1110 Maple Way • 733 -5282 www.cafebohemejh.com

professional catering for any event

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Located 1/2 block East of the Town Square 135 E. Broadway • 732-1910 • www.GenevieveJH.com

Produced and cellared at 6,229 feet above sea level at the base of the Tetons.

Teton Hospitality at its Finest Bill Boney | CIA 1986 | Owner

800-787-9178 | 208-787-2667 diningincateringinc.com

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307-201-1057 • www.jacksonholewinery.com facebook.com/jacksonholewinery.

McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole Fast, Affordable and On Your Way

Open & Serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily

Free Wi-Fi

1110 W. Broadway, Jackson, WY 1 mile west of Town Square

307-733-7444

Double R Ranch and Dry Aged Steaks, Rocky Mountain Game, Fresh Alaskan and Hawaiian Seafood. Local Brews and Top Shelf Libations.

25 North Cache • 307-733-4790 Dinner Only • Open at 5:30 nightly Reservations can be made online at www.cowboysteakhouse.net.

242 N. Glenwood (307) 733-3888 www.nanis.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Your Pub, Our Passion

nikai asian grill & sushi bar

225 north cache • 2 blocks north of town square 307.734.6490 • www.nikaisushi.com reservations suggested jackson’s favorite sushi bar

FOOD SERVED 11:30am - 11:00pm $7 LUNCH 11:30am-3:00pm • HAPPY HOURS 4:00pm - 6:00pm 265 S. Millward • (307) 739-BEER (2337) www.snakeriverbrewing.com

Go Where the Locals Go “Sophisticated Mountain Cuisine”

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Live Music & Happy Hour in the Bar Al Fresco Dining Steps from the Town Square

In the Historic Wort Hotel |Broadway @ Glenwood 307.732.3939 | www.worthotel.com

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

E D ES AT U IT V NO & S R E MS O LY W RO E N RY U X LU

The Lodge at Jackson Hole is the area’s newest in luxury accommodations offering world-class amenities and convenience to Wyoming’s most visited attractions. Experience newly renovated rooms and suites boasting lavish bedding, sleeper sofa, 51 inch Samsung Plasma 3D HDTV and Blu-ray player, iHome alarm clock, custom desk with a built-in technology hub, and bathrooms with granite counter tops, plush robes, fine bath amenities, and rain showerheads. Explore Wyoming’s Wild West in comfort and style, with the convenience of the historic town of Jackson and the Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks just minutes away. • • • •

Newly renovated rooms and suites Complimentary hot gourmet breakfast buffet Pool, sauna, and on-site spa treatments Minutes from Town Square and National Parks

• • • •

51 inch Samsung 3D HDTVs Built-in technology hub Local and airport shuttle service New restaurant and lounge

80 Scott Lane Jackson, Wyoming 83002

800.458.3866 | lodgeatjh.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Best of

art scene

Arts for All Jackson Hole’s art offerings include dance, orchestra, and visual arts. BY RICHARD ANDERSON The Art Association of Jackson Hole, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year, presents former Jackson Hole Mountain Guide owner Bill Thompson’s historic aerial photographs of Mount Everest starting September 6 at the Center for the Arts. 144

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Summer bringS an almost overwhelming richness of things to do and see in Jackson Hole. Art fairs, music festivals, gallery openings, and performances on stage and out of doors come fast and furious, all during the too-brief season when fair weather beckons us to chase adventure in the forests and mountains and on rivers. Finding a fun way to pass a few hours or even a whole day is hardly a problem; the challenge is choosing between all the options. With that difficulty in mind, here are three “sure bets”—events and attractions that either are quintessentially representative of summer in Jackson Hole or that are likely to be singular cultural high points you would be sorry to miss. We present them in no particular order.

Grand TeTon Music FesTival SuggeSt to people from New York or Philadelphia that one of the country’s best symphony orchestras is in Wyoming and they’ll laugh at you. Unless they happen to be members of the New York Philharmonic or the Philadelphia Orchestra, in which case they probably already know about the Grand Teton Music Festival. And maybe they’ve even played in it. Orchestra musicians from New York, Philly, Atlanta, Minnesota, San Francisco, and dozens of other cities from across North America convene in Jackson Hole for the 52nd Grand Teton Music Festival from July 5 to August 17. Music Director Donald Runnicles is again at the podium at Walk Festival Hall in Teton Village. The Festival includes more than two hundred players, many of whom have performed in the Festival Orchestra for twenty, thirty, and even forty years or more, as well as guest soloists and conductors. The full orchestra gathers for Friday and Saturday night programs, while smaller ensembles present chamber music on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Wednesdays are reserved for Spotlight Concerts featuring jazz, world music, and crossover performers. Highlights this summer include the return of violin prodigy James Ehnes, playing Mozart’s Concerto No. 4 on July 12 and 13, pianist Jeremy Denk appearing on an August 2-3 program that includes Schumann’s Piano Concerto, and pianist Yefim Bronfman helping to close the season with Tchaikovsky’s Piano Concerto No. 1. Other guests include New Orleans’ Hot 8 Brass Band, Nashville a cappella group The Collective (featuring Jackson Hole’s own Isaac Hayden), genre-bending piano virtuoso Christopher O’Riley, and EntreFlamenco Company from San Antonio, Texas. Tickets range from free (for Tuesday’s Inside the Music programs) to $54 for weekend orchestral concerts, and most concerts cost just $10 or less for students. Visit GTMF.org for the full 2013 schedule or for tickets, or call 307/733-1128.

friday & saturday orchestra concerts often feature special guest artists. heidi melton, soprano, performs in 2012 with the festival orchestra.

hike the Tetons Fish the Snake hear the Music

Grand Teton National Park

After a day of experiencing all that Jackson Hole has to offer, relax to the sounds of the Grand Teton Music Festival Orchestra. Comprised of musicians from the nation’s best symphonies, this world-class festival has been making music in the mountains for more than 50 years. Come as you are, and enjoy the casual atmosphere and superior acoustics of Walk Festival Hall nestled at the base of Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village.

“One of the best places in this country to hear classical music in summer lies in the shadow of the Tetons ...”

– David Mermelstein, Wall Street Journal

Chamber Music Concerts

Free Family Concerts

Music Director Donald Runnicles, conductor of the Deutsche Oper Berlin, returns each summer from Germany to conduct the Festival Orchestra and showcase internationally acclaimed guest artists, such as Alicia Weilerstein, cello; Yefim Bronfman, piano; Pablo Sáinz Villegas, guitar; James Ehnes, violin; and guest conductors Miguel Harth-Bedoya, Matthias Pintscher and Ludovic Morlot, plus many more. Visit our website for complete programming.

JaCkSoN hole, wyoMiNG July 4 – auGuST 17, 2013

Spotlight Concerts

ConCerts nightly in teton Village 307-733-1128 www.gtmf.org

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JACLYN BOROWSKI

this time for a monthlong residency during which it will workshop a new piece, Fold Here. “Fold Here researches the perceptive possibilities and challenges of getting to know what exists outside and within us,” the company writes on GallimDance. com. “Choreographer Andrea Miller explores the conceptual, physical, functional, and mystical properties of a cardboard box as a cathedral and its interaction with her dancers.” Gallim will be living and working in Jackson Hole for four weeks—from June 17 to July 10—polishing Fold Here in preparation for a September premiere in New York. The community will have plenty of opportunities to get rare behind-the-scenes looks at the process that takes place between choreographer and dancers through Wednesday and Friday open rehearsals and Tuesday and Thursday master classes, as well as other chances for dance patrons to interact with artists. The company will present a “work in progress” show at the end of their stay, and the plan is for it to return in February 2014 to present a finished Fold Here. The extended residency with Gallim Dance is another step toward Case’s goal of establishing Dancers’ Workshop and Jackson Hole as a place where companies can come and work intensively

RIGHT: Violin prodigy James Ehnes performs Mozart’s Concerto No. 4 on July 12 and 13 during the Grand Teton Music Festival.

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Dancers’ Workshop A couple years ago, Babs Case, artistic director for Dancers’ Workshop, was on her way home from Europe when she stopped in New York City to visit with some dance colleagues. While there, a friend took her to the 92nd Street Y to see a performance by Andrea Miller’s Gallim Dance. The group’s work was quite raw, she recalls, but it still captivated her. She mulled bringing them to Jackson for a performance but hesitated, unsure of how western Wyoming audiences would respond to the edgy, avant-garde troupe. In the end, however, she said “what the hell” and took the plunge. Dancers’ Workshop hosted the Brooklyn, New York, company in February 2012, when the group presented Blush, a 2009 work the company describes as “an invigorating work dense with emotion and physical exertion that takes the moment of blushing and expands it into a sixtyminute journey.” Case and her crew at DW are thrilled to welcome Gallim Dance back to Dancers’ Workshop,

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

BENJAMIN EALOVEGA

ABOVE: The New York City Ballet Moves will be in residency August 5 to 10, offering master classes Monday through Thursday, open rehearsals Wednesday and Thursday, and performances Friday and Saturday.

away from the day-to-day distractions of their home studios and cities. Since 2010, Case has been working with the New York City Ballet, hosting members of the famous troupe for weeklong residencies that include workshops, open rehearsals, classes for DW students, and performances. As a result of its partnership with Case, New York City Ballet created New York City Ballet

Moves, a touring ensemble of principals, soloists, and corps members, to present the troupe’s work in smaller venues. Dancers’ Workshop and the Vail International Dance Festival were the first presenters to host the group in 2011, and Case has welcomed it back each summer since. This year, New York City Ballet Moves will be in residency August 5 to 10, again offering master classes Monday through Thursday, open rehearsals on Wednesday and Thursday, and performances on Friday and Saturday. Visit DWJH.org for additional information on these two gala events, including exact times of classes and open rehearsals. For tickets to performances, call the Center for the Arts box office at 307/733-4900 or visit JHCenterForThe Arts.org.

The Art Association of Jackson Hole In the past decade, the arts have become as big a part of everyday life in Jackson Hole as the outdoors. Art is ubiquitous, a given, a right we expect as much as the right to hike and climb and bike and raft on our public lands. But it wasn’t always like that. Back in the early 1960s, some visionary community members observed that the arts were getting short shrift in our public schools, and they set out to remedy that by creating the Art Association (nee the Jackson Hole Fine Arts Guild). In 2013, the Art Association marks its 50th anniversary. Approaching this milestone, Dave Muskat, the nonprofit’s board president and acting executive director, calls the enterprise robust and thriving. In 1985, Muskat says, the group offered twenty-five classes that served 300 students. In 2012, it reached more than 2,200 students, more than half of them school-age. Work by 535 artists hung on the Art Association’s gallery walls last year. Sixty-five instructors taught classes and workshops, and ten full-time staff members oversaw ceramics, photography, painting, drawing, and children’s programs, among other areas. Just this winter, the nonprofit established its first-ever endowment, the Huntley Baldwin Art Association Endowment. “That’s something,” Muskat says of all these achievements. “We’re going to be celebrating the heck out of it.”

Teton Valley, Idaho

Teton Valley, Idaho is surrounded by Targhee National Forest and just over the pass from Jackson Hole. A step away from heaven, this quiet, high mountain, pristine valley is renowned for unparalleled powder skiing at Grand Targhee Resort and Teton backcountry, as well as world class trout fishing, hunting, biking and hiking-Teton Valley has it all! Let one of our hi experienced agents help you come home to your dreams on the “affordable” side of the Tetons.

Teton Valley Realty Competition A Competition B Competition C Competition D Sales data Jan.’00 - Nov.’12. Source Teton Board of Realtors

“Local Brokerage, National Results”

208.354.2439 tetonvalleyrealty.com 253 S. Main

PO Box 604

Driggs, ID

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Jenna Child : 307.413.4368 Dan White : 208.206.1516 Sam Lea : 208.351.7211

“Our favorite knives” Savuer Test Kitchen “Knife Art” Fine Cooking

On the corner of Deloney and Center St on the Jackson Town Square newwestknifeworks.com

307 733 4193 Toll Free 877 258 0100 SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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BRADLY J. BONER

The Grand Teton Music Festival Orchestra plays Friday and Saturday nights from July 5 to August 17. Smaller ensembles present chamber music on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Wednesday nights are “Spotlight” concerts featuring jazz, world music, and crossover performances.

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The celebration includes a range of exhibitions and parties that shows off the association’s deep and broad interests and offerings: the second Jackson Hole Photography Competition in May and June; the new juried, all-media Best of Wyoming exhibition opening June 28; a Kids Only expo opening August 9; a show of former Jackson Hole Mountain Guide owner Bill Thompson’s historic aerial photographs of Mount Everest opening September 6; and, on November 15, the second annual Art Heist, where more than three hundred works of art will go for a song in a gala silent auction. Of course, the Art Association will hold its two annual art fairs—June 19 to 21 and August 16 to 18—at Miller Park in downtown Jackson. “We had almost twenty thousand people come through last year,” Muskat says of the vast shows. This year, some 700 artists and artisans from across the country applied, and 175 were selected for each fair. The big birthday celebration is tentatively set for September 20, when the semicentenarian hosts its 50th anniversary gala with a masquerade party, an auction of artist-made mask-erpieces, food prepared by the valley’s top chefs, a fashion show, and an after-party with music, art, raffles, and more food.

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

And, of course, the Art Association will also be participating in the 29th annual Fall Arts Festival, set for September 5 to 15 and drawing in all the galleries, artists, and art boosters of the valley for openings, special guests and events, food, and wine. This year, the venerable nonprofit reprises its Fall Arts Festival Open House. In years past, the group has organized an open studio tour, in which artists across the valley throw open their workspaces for the public to visit. Last year, however, it gathered together a collection of some of our finest in its own studios and spaces, so art tourists didn’t have to drive all over the place, but could witness the creative work of dozens of artists in one stop. This revised format was so popular they’re sticking with it again this year. “People will be doing pottery and glasswork and silversmithing,” says Muskat. “People can come in while they’re painting … with food and drink. And we’ll probably also do something collaborative” with one or more of the Art Association’s coresidents at the Center for the Arts. Of course, details are still resolving and events are still evolving. Check back at ArtAssociation.org for up-to-date information or call 307/733-6379. JH

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Fine Rugs

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Quality windows for over 90 years

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Fine Living Your Local Glass & Window Specialists

Windows, Shower Doors, Greenhouses, Commercial Storefronts, Screens, Mirrors, Glass SALES, INSTALLATION, SERVICE & REPAIR

Windows and Doors www.hurd.com Contact Teton Glass for an estimate

208.313.7169 www.tetonglass.com • winston@tetonglass.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Best of

galleries

ALTAMIRA FINE ART 172 Center Street Jackson, WY PH: 307-739-4700 www.altamiraart.com Altamira Fine Art focuses on exceptional, Western Contemporary artwork, photography, Indian Art, and sculpture in wood, bronze, and stainless steel. Altamira is one of the "must see" galleries in the exhilarating Jackson Hole art district.

BRADLY J. BONER

Western Design Conference jewelry and fashion show at the Center for the Arts

WheTher you’re passionaTe about plein-air, a serious collector of western paintings by contemporary or deceased masters, or a casual art fan searching for a keepsake to remind you of your time spent here, in Jackson Hole you have the opportunity to enjoy art in its multitude of forms. Over the past two decades, Jackson Hole has grown to become one of the most heralded art centers of the West, popping off the tongues of aficionados alongside the likes of Santa Fe, Palo Alto, and Scottsdale. Begin by visiting some of the galleries highlighted here, where you can pick up a copy of our summer/fall arts magazine, Images West. In it you will learn more about the valley’s artists, galleries, and arts-related classes and events. 150

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DIEHL GALLERY 155 W. Broadway PO Box 4860, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-0905 info@diehlgallery.com www.diehlgallery.com One of Britain’s leading contemporary sculptors, Simon Gudgeon has a signature smooth style that wonderfully concentrates spirit and nature. His minimalist, semi-abstract forms depict both movement and emotion of a moment captured with a visual harmony that is unmistakably his own. Visit Diehl Gallery to view Simon Gudgeon’s current body of work.

GRAND TETON GALLERY 130 W Broadway Jackson, WY 83001 307-201-1172 www.grandtetongallery.com info@grandtetongallery.com Bringing something new and exciting to Jackson Hole, Grand Teton Gallery offers the work of nationally and internationally known painters and sculptors specializing in traditional and contemporary western art. Artists include: Chester Fields, Rip Caswell, Richard Luce, Carrie Wild, Ottley, Middlekauff, Coonts, Weisfield, Clayton, Oliver, and Penk. Located one block west of the town square, diagonally across from the Wort Plaza, Grand Teton Gallery provides a warm and friendly atmosphere for your viewing pleasure.

HINES GOLDSMITHS 80 Center Street on the Town Square Jackson, WY 83001 PH: 307-733-5599 www.hinesgold.com Since 1970 Hines Goldsmiths has been Jackson's premier fine art jewelry gallery. A diverse collection features award winning jewelry artists using unique fine collectible gemstones and diamonds, photography from local artists, hand-etched fine crystal and glassware portraying the Tetons, the Wyoming bucking Bronco, and wildlife of Jackson Hole. We are the original designers of the famed Teton jewelry collection ranging from high-end pave diamonds pieces to affordable silver charms.

MANGELSEN â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IMAGES OF NATuRE GALLERY 170 North Cache, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-9752 www.mangelsen.com Legendary nature photographer Thomas D. Mangelsen has traveled throughout the natural world for 40 years observing and photographing the Earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s last great wild places. Mangelsen has captured wild moments and vast panoramas from all seven continents. We invite you to visit the Mangelsen Images of Nature Gallery located one block north of the historic town square. The gallery features over 200 limited edition and artist proof prints in a variety of display options.

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national museum of wildlife art

A one-of-a-kind unique store Art ➻ Furniture ➻ Rugs ➻ Antiques ➻ Collectibles 1150 W Hwy 22 • Jackson, Wy 83001 307-690-6777 • Estate-Collectables.com

Overlooking the National Elk Refuge Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-5771 1-800-313-9553 WildlifeArt.org Featuring a world-class collection of more than 5,000 items, stunning architecture, 14 galleries, Sculpture Trail, Museum Shop, Rising Sage Café, and Children’s Discovery Gallery, the National Museum of Wildlife Art provides an exciting calendar of events and exhibitions from its permanent collection and changing exhibitions from around the globe. Open Monday through Saturday, 9am-5pm and Sundays, 11am-5pm.

Rick’s 75 W Little Ave, PO Box 515 Driggs, ID 83422 PH: 208-354-2030 ricks@silverstar.com www.ricksonline.biz Rick’s, located in downtown Driggs @ the old lumber yard, is a collection of local and regional artisans and their works. Traditional oils, acrylics, pastels, photography, just to name a few, gathered in a 10,000 square foot arena. Home décor, yard art, “repurposed” furniture, pottery, tile and much more awaits you in a comfortable, open setting. In addition, Rick’s offers full service custom picture framing and graphic printing. Quick turnaround, quality framing, at affordable pricing. Conservation and preservation framing also available. A price to meet every need. 152

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WEST LIvES ON TRADITIONAL & CONTEMPORARY GALLERIES

RARE GALLERY OF JACkSON HOLE 60 East Broadway, 2nd Floor Jackson Hole, WY PH: 307-733-8726 www.raregalleryjacksonhole.com RARE Gallery….. a Collectors Destination! This 6000 sq' Rick Armstrong signature gallery continues to debut “Art for the New West” in Jackson Hole! Our collections include blue chip works, masters’ collections, museum quality designer jewelry and art from the most acclaimed emerging artists of today. Featuring paintings, sculptures, photographs, glass, 3 dimensional art, and designer jewelry. Specializing in art consultation and collection management.

JEWELRY ORIGINALS

TRAILSIDE GALLERIES 130 East Broadway, Jackson, WY PH: 307-733-3186 www.trailsidegalleries.com Celebrating its 50th Anniversary in 2013, Trailside Galleries was established in Jackson, Wyoming in 1963. The gallery’s 15,000 square foot gallery space provides visitors and collectors with a stimulating and aesthetically pleasing art experience as it showcases an impressive collection of paintings, sculpture and unique western furniture by many of the county’s leading fine artists. The gallery is also home to the offices of its auction department, the Jackson Hole Art Auction, which is held every September at the Center for the Arts.

55 & 75 N. Glenwood, Jackson, WY PH: 307-734-2888 www.westliveson.com Discover an extraordinary collection of traditional and contemporary Western art. Both galleries display works depicting the rich heritage of the American West featuring Western, wildlife and landscape art in original oils, acrylics, watercolors and bronze. Come see these impressive pieces from over 100 regional and national artists. Our knowledgeable staff will assist you in finding that special piece you are looking for in our vast collection, ranging in style, mediums and price range. Visit both galleries on Glenwood St. across from the Wort Hotel.

37 years of inspiration at 6,000 feet Gaslight Alley • Downtown Jackson Hole 125 N Cache • www.danshelley.com 307.733.2259

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Best of

mercantile

Lodging Hotels

MetWest Terra: Hotel Terra & Teton Mountain Lodge Where luxury comes naturally, Hotel Terra is a 4-diamond, eco-hotel. Enjoy breakfast/lunch at Terra Café or spoil yourself at Chill Spa. (800) 631-6281, hotelterrajacksonhole.com. Teton Mountain Lodge is the perfect summer vacation base camp. Our 4-diamond lodge is home to Solitude Spa and Spur Restaurant & Bar – Chef Kevin Humphrey’s “Best Executive Chef” in JH, 5 years in a row. (800) 631-6271, tetonlodge.com. Signal Mountain Lodge Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, we provide the only lakefront accommodations on Jackson Lake. Stay amidst the beauty of the Teton Range with full resort amenities in a variety of lodging accommodations from rustic cabins to suite style units with kitchenettes. Amenities include scenic Snake River float trips, Jackson Lake guided fishing, boat rentals, camping, shopping and full service dining. (307) 543-2831or Signalmtnlodge.com. The Lodge at Jackson Hole Situated in the heart of Jackson, a short drive away from bustling Town Square and Yellowstone National Park, is Jackson’s newest luxury hotel. The Lodge at Jackson Hole offers 154 luxurious rooms and suites featuring modern amenities enveloped in rustic elegance and divine comfort. Guests will be delighted to find a complimentary hot gourmet breakfast, free wireless internet, indoor/outdoor heated pool, lavish in-room amenities, on-site spa rooms and treatments, as well as complimentary airport and local shuttle service. 80 Scott Lane. Jackson, WY 83002 | (307) 739-9703 or (800)458-3866. LodgeatJH.com. The Rustic Inn at Jackson Hole Creekside Resort & Spa Located on twelve lush acres along Flat Creek across from the National Elk Refuge and few blocks from Jackson’s lively town square, the Rustic Inn welcomes guests with warm Western hospitality. Outdoor enthusiasts and hedonists alike delight in the lavishly appointed rooms & luxury cabins, state of the art amenities, revitalizing spa, innovative cuisine, year-round activities and idyllic setting. (307) 733-2357 RusticInnatJH.com. The White Buffalo Club Jackson’s chic luxury hotel is all about location. Located only three blocks from the charming town square, and close to dining, shopping and nightlife, you’ll enjoy having Jackson at your doorstep. Enjoy dining at our on-site modern American steakhouse, take part in a relaxing yoga class in our expanse 154

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fitness center, or find your Zen in our intimate boutique spa. Relish in our unique mountain contemporary suites, or kick back in our Soho style loft spaces. Blended together, the White Buffalo Club offers a recipe for the perfect Jackson getaway. Phone: (888) 256-8182, Fax: (307) 734-1998. 160 West Gill Avenue Jackson, WY 83001. whitebuffaloclub.com. Turpin Meadow Ranch At the gateway to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, the historic Turpin Meadow Ranch sits at the very end of the Buffalo Valley Road, the edge of the most remote area in the lower 48. With the Buffalo Fork lapping at your cabin door, and unhindered views of the Teton range down the valley, Turpin Meadow Ranch is one of those unforgettable places. Now under new ownership, all of the ranch buildings have been restored to their original beauty, while being updated with touches of contemporary comfort. (307) 543-2000. turpinmeadowranch. com. info@turpinmeadowranch.com. Wyoming Inn Introducing the newest in Jackson Hole luxury, the Wyoming Inn’s recent remodel features spacious rooms with western styling,granite bathrooms with walk-in shower, and select rooms with fireplace, window seat and wet bar. Jackson’s premier boutique hotel also features a state-of-the-art fitness center, luxurious lobby with leather couches and wood burning fireplace, and freshly-made breakfast. For information or reservations, phone (800) 844-0035 or visit wyominginn.com.

ResoRts

Four Seasons At Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole, we love to share our passion for America’s greatest wilderness playgrounds, Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Park. Experience AAA Five Diamond and Forbes Five Star mountain luxury amidst the grandeur of majestic mountains with abundant wildlife & pristine natural beauty. Enjoy ski- in/ski-out luxury at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort with 156 guest rooms, suites and private residences. Professional meeting services with the largest meeting and banquet space in Jackson Hole. Relax in any one of our restaurants while dining on the freshest regional cuisine. ( 307) 732-5000 - Fourseasons.com/ Jacksonhole. Grand Teton Lodge Company Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, our many lodging and dining options, as well as endless activities, will add memories to your Jackson Hole vacation experience. Treat yourself to the rustic elegance of Jenny Lake Lodge, our Four Diamond property featuring

private cabins tucked amongst the pines. Jackson Lake Lodge, our full-service resort, features 60-foot picture windows framing the Tetons. Guest facilities include restaurants, gift shops, a swimming pool and activities including wild and scenic river rafting and horseback riding. If you’re looking for outdoor adventure, you’ll find Colter Bay Village on the shores of Jackson Lake to be the ideal location. Accommodations range from cabins to an RV Park, along with restaurants, a grocery store, launderette and showers. For information, (307) 543-2811. gtlc.com/jm. The Cakebread Ranch Steve and Jill Cakebread founded the Cakebread Ranch in Star Valley, Wyoming in 2005. Their vision is to provide the highest quality guest experience in fly fishing and gourmet dining. As well as produce premier food products from the organic farm and Kobe beef quality meat from the 100% Wagyu cattle ranch. The ranch strives to be a model of sustainable ranching, farming and outdoor activities in Wyoming through restoration of habitats and on going educational programs. (307) 883-3474, 640 Clearwater Lane, Thayne, WY 83127, info@ thecakebreadranch.com.

Vacation Rentals

The Clear Creek Group The Clear Creek Group provides caretaking and rental services for private properties in Jackson Hole, from fire lit log cabins to grand mountain estates. Guests enjoy a luxury hotel experience in an exceptional private home, while homeowners simply relax, and reap the rewards. In a word, the very best of Jackson Hole. The Clear Creek Group, (307) 732-3400, 120 West Pearl Avenue, Jackson WY 83001, theclearcreekgroup.com. Rendezvous Mountain Rentals & Property Management Specializing in short-term vacation rentals at Teton Village, the Aspens and Teton Pines. We offer over 40 years of combined property management experience in Jackson. Our only business is property management and we are your direct connection to great homes and condominiums. Locally owned and operated, conveniently located on the Teton Village Road across from the Aspens. (307) 739-9050, (866) 864-0119 or rmrentals.com.

Activities 2013 Fall Arts Festival Join us this year in celebrating the 29th annual Fall Arts Festival, September 5-15, 2013 when spectacular landscape and abundant wildlife unite to create a perfect setting to celebrate the Arts! The Fall Arts Festival has become the

ADJAcENT To poND AND STREAM

premier cultural event of Jackson Hole and attracts hundreds of nationally and internationally acclaimed artists that embody the spirit of the West. Visitors will experience the visual, performing and culinary arts showcasing the diversity of our region through wildlife, landscape and contemporary pieces. jacksonholechamber. com. For additional information, please contact Maureen Murphy at the Jackson Hole Chamber, (307) 733-3316. Grand Teton Lodge Company Adventure awaits in the park with horseback riding, river rafting, scenic lake cruises, lake and fly fishing, scenic bus tours and more. After a day of captivity, visit one of our many restaurants or shops. For information or reservations, phone (307) 543-2811, gtlc.com/jm. Grand Teton Music Festival Now entering its 52nd season, Grand Teton Music Festival has grown into one of the world’s most renowned classical music gatherings featuring an all-star orchestra of musicians from over 50 major symphony and opera orchestras and chamber ensembles. Music Director Donald Runnicles returns from Berlin each summer to conduct the Festival Orchestra and showcase internationally acclaimed guest artists in the Festival’s intimate home, Walk Festival Hall. This acoustic marvel is nestled at the base of Rendezvous Mountain in Teton Village – gateway to Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. July 4 – August 17, 2013. For tickets & information: (307) 733–1128 or gtmf.org. Heart Mountain Following the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, President Franklin Roosevelt issued Executive Order 9066 which led to the forced removal of all persons of Japanese ancestry from the West Coast. The Heart Mountain Interpretive Center near Powell Wyoming tells the tragic and inspiring stories of the Japanese American families imprisoned during World War II. HeartMountain.org Tel: (307) 754-8000. Introduction to Rodeo Introduction to Rodeo is a new horseback experience in Jackson Hole, WY. If you always wanted to be a real cowboy, then this is the adventure for you. Learn how to Barrel race at your own speed, you go as slow or as fast as you are comfortable. Then lets Rope, learn how to rope a dummy on the ground before we get you back on your horse to rope a life like dummy. Then lets learn how to move a real cow around the arena. Sound like fun, because it is and safe for all ages and NO EXPERIENCE NEEDED. (307) 690-0676, introductiontorodeo.com, jamie@introductiontorodeo.com.

A beautiful lot bordered by a pond and seasonal stream, with unobstructed views of the mountains to the west, as well as views of the Gros Ventre Mtns in the east. Located within the secluded western portion of Shooting Star’s residential area. Local amenities include the world renown golf course designed by Tom Fazio, a beautifully designed and complete clubhouse, and easy access to world class skiing at the adjacent Jackson Hole Ski Resort. $2,300,000. #4420621.

DAN WILLERT Associate Broker

Dan.Willert@JHSIR.com | 208 313.3334 c | 877.733.9009 tf

Our Heritage ~ Grand and Alive!

225 N. Cache Parking behind Museum 307-733-2414 jacksonholehistory.org

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Jackson Hole Shooting Experience Whether a novice shooter or experienced marksman, come have a BLAST as we focus on safety, education and FUN! We provide year-round classes (NRA’s Basic Pistol, Rifle & Shotgun; Personal Protection courses; private Defensive Pistol instruction; Archery; Youth instruction & more) as well as customized private luxury entertainment shooting experiences for individuals, groups, wedding parties, family retreats and corporate events! Our ‘Multi-Gun Pistol & Rifle Experience’ can’t be missed! ShootinJH.com or (307) 690-7921. Jackson Hole Wine Auction Jackson Hole Wine Auction is one of the preeminent charity wine auctions in the country. Each year brings exquisite wines and food creations from award-winning chefs together for an extraordinary weekend in an incomparable setting, Jackson Hole, Wyoming. Come raise your paddle June 21-22, 2013 at the 18th annual Jackson Hole Wine Auction benefiting the education and outreach programs of Grand Teton Music Festival. Save the date for the 2014 event: June 26 - 28. (307) 732-9965, jhwineauction.org. Signal Mountain Lodge Located in the heart of Grand Teton National Park, we provide the only lakefront accommodations on Jackson Lake. Stay amidst the beauty of the Teton Range with full resort amenities in a variety of lodging accommodations from rustic cabins to suite style units with kitchenettes. Amenities include scenic Snake River float trips, Jackson Lake guided fishing, boat rentals, camping, shopping and full service dining. Signalmtnlodge.com or (307) 543-2831. Utah Festival Opera and Musical Theatre Utah Festival Opera and Musical Theatre in Logan, Utah, presents top performers from Broadway and opera stages under one roof July 10-Aug 10, 2013. Classes, tours, and concerts too. Fiddler on the Roof * Otello * Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat * The Flying Dutchman. utahfestival.org.

Fishing

Grand Teton Lodge Company Enjoy some of the finest fly fishing in the world in Grand Teton National Park. Our guides can take you by private boat to fish the shores or depths of Jackson Lake, or on the Snake River. For information call (307) 543-2811. gtlc.com/jm. The Cakebread Ranch Steve and Jill Cakebread founded the Cakebread Ranch in Star Valley, Wyoming in 2005. Their vision is to provide the highest quality guest experience in fly fishing and gourmet dining. As well as produce premier food products from the organic farm and Kobe beef quality meat from the 100% Wagyu cattle ranch. The ranch strives to be a model of sustainable ranching, farming and outdoor activities in Wyoming through restoration of habitats and on going educational programs. (307) 883-3474, 640 Clearwater Lane, Thayne, WY 83127, info@ thecakebreadranch.com.

Ski Resorts

Big Sky Resort Take the Tram to the top! The ultimate scenic view and high point of your summer is at the 156

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top of Lone Peak in Big Sky Montana. The Basecamp to Yellowstone is proud to present the experience of a lifetime to stand at an 11,166 ft. summit and view two national parks, three states and many mountain ranges. While you are taking in the views, keep an eye out for Billie and Nanny Goats that call Lone Peak home. Big Sky Resort offers a variety of accommodations, spa, dining and activities for the whole family. Lodging from $117/night. Call for details. Bigskyresort.com or (800) 548-4486. Grand Targhee Resort Grand Targhee Resort is your break away to summer fun. The resort offers over 37 miles of single track mountain bike trails, two world famous music festivals, scenic lift rides with spectacular views of the Tetons, horseback rides through the Caribou-Targhee National Forest, world class fly fishing, and mountainside accommodations that will keep the whole family active. Your stop in the Teton Valley. 800-TARGHEE, GrandTarghee.com. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Located in Teton Village, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort is a year-round adventure mecca for skiers and snowboards in the winter and hiking, biking and sightseeing in the summer. Stand on top of the Tetons with the famous Aerial Tram that takes passengers from the valley floor up 4,000 vertical feet to the summit of Rendezvous Peak, providing unbeatable views of the Tetons, the Snake River and Gros Ventre wilderness. Hiking trails, the new bike park and fun concerts and events all summer long make this a must-do stop for families. (307) 739-2654 or jacksonhole.com.

Wildlife Viewing

EcoTour Adventures Amazing wildlife viewing and park tours through Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. Join us for an educational experience that just might be the highlight of your vacation. We offer half-day, full-day, and multi-day options. Small group tours with one of our professional guides assure your desired experience. Jackson’s green and sustainable tour company. Explore with us year-round! Top rated on TripAdvisor.com. (307) 690-9533, jhecotouradventures.com. Jackson Hole Wildlife Safaris A guide owned and operated company that strives to educate, entertain and connect our guests with this amazing place. Enjoy small groups, experienced local guides, and unprecedented opportunities to view and photograph the region’s abundant wildlife. Our half day, full day and multi-day itineraries will be the highlight of your vacation. Learn more at JacksonHoleWildlifeSafaris.com or at (307) 690-6402. TravelStorysGPS TravelStorysGPS is a smartphone application that connects travelers to the land and communities through vivid and engaging stories told in real time. TravelStorysGPS offers travelers entertaining audible narration about the passing landscape and opportunities to support organizations conserving the scenery and wildlife. To learn more, please contact Story Clark: Story@ TravelStorysGPS.com.

Wildlife Expeditions of Teton Science Schools You are invited to join a professional biologist in a comfortable safari-style vehicle for a fun, ethical and educational wildlife viewing experience your family will never forget! Learn about the natural and cultural history of the area with a non-profit organization that has been operating in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks for over forty years. Expeditions depart daily, year-round and vary in length from four hours to multiple days. Private and custom expeditions also available. Reserve your expedition today (307) 733-2623 or wildlifeexpeditions.org.

Golf and Tennis

3 Creek Ranch Admittedly, the world-class Rees Jones golf course (ranked #1 by Golf Digest every year it has been open) is one of the reasons that first attracted many of 3 Creek Ranch’s members to the club and community. But it is the bevy of “other” amenities that have kept them coming back. In addition to the championship golf course and state-of-the art teaching facility and practice area, 3 Creek Ranch boasts two clay tennis courts, swimming pool, fitness center, and extensive summer camp program for kids. And that’s just in the summer. When the snow starts to fly, 3 Creek adds a skating rink and world-class groomed track for Nordic skiing. Additionally, this past season was the inaugural season for 3 Creek’s new Ski Club on the mountain located directly adjacent to the Tram. Offering ski in/ski out access, ski and boot storage, and private warming lounge and bathrooms it has proven the place to be for members during the winter. For membership information, contact Director of Membership Sales, Mike Connaughton, at (307) 732-8920 or via email at mconnaughton@3creekranch-jh.com. Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis Club Open to the public, this 18-hole Robert Trent Jones II golf course is consistently ranked as the top course in Wyoming. Bordering Grand Teton National Park, the course features unobstructed Teton views, golf and tennis pro shops, and professional lessons. Also open to the public is the North Grille restaurant serving lunch and dinner with unprecedented Teton views from the outdoor fireside patio or through picturesque windows. Call (307) 733-3111 for reservations or tee times, or visit jhgtc.com. Teton Pines Country Club & Resort Established in 1987, Teton Pines is consistently rated among the world’s finest mountain golf facilities. More than just a spectacular Arnold Palmer Signature Course, Teton Pines also offers year-round tennis, cross-country skiing, fly fishing, lodging, wedding and banquet services and dining at The Pines Restaurant - highly rated by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler magazine. (800) 238-2223, tetonpines.com.

Museums

Jackson Hole Historical Society and Museum Explore the unique history, archaeology and culture of the Jackson Hole valley. The museum, book and gift store, and research center featuring a library of Western Americana, photographs, oral histories, newspapers and archives are all located at 225 North Cache, (307) 7332414. Visit jacksonholehistory.org for exhibits,

events and photo gallery, as well as donation, membership and volunteer opportunities. National Museum of Wildlife Art Connect with wildlife and the natural world. Featuring a NEW outdoor sculpture trail with major installations, permanent collection of more than 5,000 items, stunning architecture, 14 galleries, Museum Shop, Library, Café and Children’s Discovery Gallery, the National Museum of Wildlife Art is not to be missed. With permanent and changing exhibitions from around the world, programming and special events for all ages, there’s always a new reason to experience your museum in Jackson Hole. For information about exhibitions and events, visit us online at WildlifeArt.org. Open daily (9am - 5pm during summer; off-season: 9am - 5pm Mon-Sat; 11am - 5pm Sun) overlooking the National Elk Refuge in Jackson, WY. (307) 733-5771 or tollfree (800) 313-9553.

“It’s called mood lighting. It creates a nice ambiance. No dear, your head lamp wasn’t exactly what I had in mind.”

Artists Tracy Miller Tracy Miller has turned a lifetime obsession with creating art and a love of animals into a career where she strives to capture the essence and spirit of the wildlife she paints through bold brushwork, color and strategic use of negative space . Meet Tracy on June 22nd at the Plein Air Fest at the National Museum of Wildlife Art. When in Colorado, visit Tracy at her Studio & Gallery at 16 Ruxton Avenue in historic Manitou Springs where she also represents exciting works by established Colorado artists. (719) 6500827 web: tracymillerfineart.com email: tracy@ tracymillerfineart.com.

Art Auctions Coeur d’Alene Art Auction The 27th Annual Coeur d’ Alene Art Auction will be held July 27, 2013 at the Peppermill Resort/Casino in Reno, Nevada. Coeur d’ Alene is the largest auction of its kind in the country with over $200 million in sales over the last ten years. The auction specializes in period Western American paintings and sculpture from 1880-1940 along with a very select group of contemporary artists. For more information or to purchase a catalog please call (208) 772-9009 or cdaartauction.com.

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Jackson Hole Art Auction The Jackson Hole Art Auction is a live auction held during the Fall Arts Festival. The seventh annual auction will be held on September 14, 2013. It has quickly become one of the premier western art events in the country, defined by the high standard of works offered by both contemporary western artists and deceased masters. (866) 549-9278, jacksonholeartauction. com, or coordinator@jacksonholeartauction.com.

Shopping Azadi Rug Gallery Fine Rugs for Fine Living - The premier selection of fine, tribal, nomadic, western, silk/wool blended and antique rugs in the intermountain region - conveniently located in Jackson Hole. Our hand made rugs are woven by master weavers using natural dyes and are truly one-of-a-kind pieces. We buy, sell, trade,

The world’s finest purveyor of gourmet oils, vinegars, spices & spirits. Featuring single cask, single-malt Scotches, artisan European brandies, Absinthe and other fine liqueurs, culinary oils, fruit and balsamic vinegars; all sampled directly from the cask.

An old world shopping experience in the heart of Jackson Hole 60 E. Broadway (under The Snake River Grill) Jackson, WY 83001 • 307-734-1535

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clean and repair rugs, but also feature exotic furniture. Always honest, reliable service, and complimentary shipping in the U.S. We’re located at 165 North Center Street, serving Jackson and the mountain west since 2000 (307) 733-3388. Boot Barn Take home the real. The wild. The West. From boots and jeans to shirts, hats and accessories, you’ll find everything you want and everything you need at Boot Barn. Boot Barn has the largest selection of western and work apparel and boots including Wrangler, Lucchese, Old Gringo, Tony Lama, Stetson and more. At the lowest prices, guaranteed. Visit Boot Barn at 840 West Broadway in Jackson or call (307) 733-0247, Bootbarn.com. DanShelley Jewelers DanShelley was established in 1976. Dan has a passion for design and creating uniquely beautiful jewelry. After 37 years, he still has a constant desire to design and create. Dan would like to invite everyone to visit his gallery and experience jewelry like they have never seen before. Located in downtown Jackson at Gaslight Alley on the corner of Cache and Deloney Streets. www.danshelley.com, info@danshelley. com, (307) 733-2259. Estate Collectables Estate Collectables is a one- of- a- kind unique store located at 1150 W Hwy 22 in Jackson, WY. Featuring art, antiques, collectables, rugs, jewelry, furniture and much more. We Buy, Sell, and offer Consignment. We can help with estate liquidations. (307) 690-6777. EstateCollectables.com. Festive Living Festive Living is a 3,000 sq ft retail store and full service interior design firm located in downtown Victor, Idaho on 13 S. Main St. The store has an eclectic mix of rustic, traditional and modern furnishings and home accessories as well as tabletop and houseware items. Our staff of interior designers can consult, space plan, help you with one room or furnish your entire home from top of bottom. We are open Monday-Saturday 10am6pm. (208) 787-FEST, festive-living.com. Hines Goldsmiths Jackson’s premier jewelers since 1970. Exclusive designers of the famous Teton Pendants, Rings, Charms and Earrings, as well as Elk Ivory jewelry and Wyoming Bucking Bronco jewelry, all available in Gold or Silver with Diamonds and Fine Gems. We also feature Jackson’s largest selection of Gold and Silver Charms and unique Charm Wheels depicting our local wildlife and sporting activities. Fine Crystal and Glass Barware portray the Tetons, the Bucking Bronco, and wildlife of Jackson Hole. We proudly feature designing jeweler Patrick Murphy and many others using Fine Collectible Gemstones. 80 Center Street on the Jackson Town Square; (307)733-5599; hinesgold.com. JD High Country Outfitters Born of a life in the Tetons, we have the expertise and equipment to provide authentic experiences that enhance outdoor pursuits and lifestyles. Jackson Hole’s most complete outdoor and 158

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sporting selection, with 4 decades of service. Two Jackson Hole locations to serve you: Downtown (on the town square): 50 E. Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001, (307) 733-3270 and Teton Village: 3395 Cody Dr., Teton Village, WY 83025. Kismet Rug Gallery Known for fine masterpieces, outstanding contemporary, antique and western rugs we have been serving the world as a major wholesaler for over 200 years. Extensive collections of Herizes, Serapies, Kilims, Sultanabads, Gashgaies, Caucasians, Kashans, Kermans, Qums, Tabrizes, Sarouks, Bijars and turn of the century tribal pieces. We also specialize in hard-to-find oversized rugs and offer professional hand washing, padding and complete restoration. Featuring complementary in home showings and custom rug design - let our professionals find the rug thats perfect for you. Open 7 days a week from 10-6; visit our brand new showroom, one block east of town square at 150 East Broadway. Kismetrugs.com - info@kismetrugs.com - (307) 739 - 8984. MD Nursery—Gift Shop, Greenhouse & Garden Café At MD Nursery we are more than just a greenhouse. Our gift shop offers a wide variety of home décor, antiques, unique gifts, kid’s toys and outdoor furniture. We are conveniently located on Highway 33 in Driggs, Idaho, and just 30 minutes from Jackson, Wyoming. If you are looking for something different to do stop by our shop and have lunch at the Garden Café. MD also provides a full service florist for weddings, parties and funerals. Summer hours are 9am 6pm Monday through Saturday. (208) 354-8816. mdlandscapinginc.com. New West KnifeWorks Based in Jackson Hole, WY. The world’s finest kitchen cutlery made sustainably in the USA. Super high performance with an artistic flair. Kitchen knives, steak and kitchen sets, accessories and more. “Our Favorite Knives” Savuer Magazine. Located on the Jackson Town Square on the corner of Deloney and Center Street. (877) 258-0100, newwestknifeworks.com. Rick’s Rick’s, located in downtown Driggs at the old lumber yard, is a collection of local and regional artisans and their works. Traditional oils, acrylics, pastels, photography, just to name a few, gathered in a 10,000 square foot arena. Home décor, yard art, “repurposed” furniture, pottery, tile and much more awaits you in a comfortable, open setting. In addition, Rick’s offers full service custom picture framing and graphic printing. Quick turnaround, quality framing, at affordable pricing. Conservation and preservation framing also available. A price to meet every need. ricks@silverstar.com, ricksonline.biz, 75 W Little Ave., Driggs, Idaho 83422, (208) 354-2030. Scandia Home Scandia Home offers the finest down pillows, down comforters, bed linens, duvet covers and foundations. Scandia brings a sense of luxury to everyday life. In the world of luxury sheets, bedding and home furnishings, nothing else comes close. Jackson Hole , Wy. (800) 733-1038,scandiadownjh.com.

Spirit Books, Gifts, Life Specializing in material to open and expand the mind and heart to greater awareness and Universal connection, Spirit offers a conscious array of books, gifts and happenings for adults and children, located in downtown Wilson. spiritjh.com, (307) 733-3382. 1230 N Ida Lane, Wilson, WY 83014. Stio Stio™ is a mountain apparel company designed and developed in Jackson Hole. Founded to inspire connection with the outdoors through beautiful, functional products, Stio is apparel you can live in – in both the epic and everyday moments of outdoor life. Visit Stio on the Town Square at 10 East Broadway (Cache St. entrance), Jackson, Wyoming 83001, (307) 2011890 or online at Stio.com. Terra and Terra Tots Everyday favorites for women and children newborn to age 10. Find an expertly curated selection from contemporary labels such as Calypso, James Perse, Milly, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Mother, Current/Elliott, Tucker, Vince, TOMS and so much more! Located on the Jackson Town Square, open daily. 105 E. Broadway, (307) 734-0067, terrajh.com. The Bootlegger Offering a unique shopping experience, we carry an extensive selection of footwear from Lucchese, Frye, Sam Edelman and Dansko; accessories from George, Gina and Lucy, Ellington and Hobo International; and clothing from DL 1961 and Young, Fabulous and Broke . Make an appointment for custom cowboy boots and fittings. Located on the south side of Town Square. Call (307) 733-6207 or visit thebootlegger.com. Thoenigs A family-owned and operated business for over forty years, carrying a unique variety of watches including Breitling, Omega, Ebel, Tag Heuer, Luminox, Victorinox Swiss Army, Mondaine, Seiko, Pulsar, Timex and Casio. Our diverse jewelry selections include something for everyone. We have sterling silver, turquoise, titanium, tungsten carbide, 14k and 18K gold, and platinum items. We carry beautiful local items such as our Teton pendants, charms, earrings and cufflinks, Elk Ivory jewelry and a large selection of Wyoming jade, as well as an exciting collection from our talented local artist, Ingrid Weber. We also carry semi precious and precious stones and pearls. Tue - Fri 9 to 6, Sat 10 - 4. Call (307) 733-4916, email sales@ thoenigs.com. 125 W. Deloney, a block off the Town Square. Twenty Two Home Twenty Two Home is a refined home and lifestyle boutique that showcases beautifully curated pieces from a mix of vintage and contemporary styles. The store offers an inspired and sophisticated collection that evokes both elegance and function. Full-service interior design services also available. 45 East Deloney Avenue, Town Square, Jackson, WY, Phone (307) 733-9922, twentytwohome.com.

21 years One-of-a-kind Artistry

Maggie & Dick Scarlett

Georgene Tozzi

Lori A Sandroni

eptember 5-8, 2013

21s t A N N U A L

WesternDesignConference.com â&#x20AC;˘ Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Dining

Café Genevieve Located 1/2 block East of the Town Square at 135 E. Broadway. Serving a Southern inspired home cooked menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Café Genevieve offers a cozy atmosphere in a nationally registered historic log cabin. Enjoy a specialty cocktail on the shaded patio or a bottle of wine from the eclectic wine list with your meal. Open daily. Reservations (307) 732-1910 genevievejh.com. Couloir Restaurant Located at the summit of the Bridger Gondola at 9,095’, Couloir is Jackson Hole’s most unique dining experience. Chef Wes Hamilton presents American cuisine with Rocky Mountain roots that highlights organic and local flavors. In July 2012 Jackson Hole Mountain Resort with Couloir Restaurant became the first U.S. ski resort to join 1% for the Planet. Open nightly except Saturday during the summer season (June 23 – September 13) beginning at 5:30PM. Reservations recommended (307) 739-2654 or opentable.com/couloir. Il Villaggio Osteria Italian Cuisine and Wine Bar. Inside Hotel Terra at Teton Village. Open for dinner. For reservations call (307) 739-4100, jhosteria.com, @jhOsteria. Lobby Lounge at Four Seasons Resort The Lobby Lounge is an intimate and comfortable bar and restaurant with a sleek Western look featuring great views of the Rendezvous Mountain and multiple outdoor fire pits. Our creative sushi chefs offer fresh sushi during the peak summer and ski season. Bar bites and plates for the whole table to share are also available and may be enjoyed with one of our speciality cocktails. Indoor and outdoor seating is available. Complimentary valet parking. (307) 732-5000 or fourseasons.com/ jacksonhole. Nani’s Cucina Italiana Italy is just a block off the town square courtesy of this Jackson Hole treasure where the bustle and warmth is conducive to conversation, and chef Daniel Luna’s robust, faithful Italian cooking makes every mouthful a delight. From savory, crispy focaccia, house-made sausage and handmade pastas to the accommodating service, a “fantastico” experience awaits you. Full Bar. Nanis.com. (307) 733.3888. Rendezvous Bistro American Bistro. 380 South Highway 89/ Broadway. Open nightly at 5:30. Happy hour at the bar from 5:30 - 6:30. For reservations call (307) 739-1100, rendezvousbistro.net, @ jhBistro. Roadhouse Restaurant and Brewery Eclectic roadhouse fare and craft beer. 2550 Moose Wilson Road. Open nightly at 5:00. Happy hour at the bar from 5-6 and 8-9. For reservations call (307) 739-0700, qjacksonhole. com, @jhQroadhouse. The Deck – Top of Bridger Gondola The Deck is Jackson Hole’s best spot for amazing views, happy hour specials and delicious food. The Happy Hour from 4:30pm – 6:00pm, with 2 160

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for 1 margaritas, mojitos, draft beers and wine by the glass, is the perfect spot to unwind after an adventurous day. Ches Wes Hamilton of Couloir Restaurant offers a creative summer menu of appetizers and shared plates from the Al Fresco kitchen. The Deck is open from June 23 - Sept 13. Normal operating hours: Sunday – Friday beginning at 4:30pm. Closed Saturday. (307) 739-2675. The Handle Bar The Handle Bar is an American Pub & Beer Hall that features a wide selection of American and International beers, whiskeys and provisions. It is the ideal spot for hungry mountain bikers, travelers and revel rousers. The menu offers a diverse selection of classic pub grub with a modern twist. Open Daily from 11a.m. - 11pm Complimentary Valet. ( 307) 732-5000. The Kitchen Modern American Cuisine. 125 North Glenwood in Downtown Jackson. Open nightly at 5:30. Happy Hour nightly 5:30 - 6:30. For reservations call (307) 734-1633, thekitchenjacksonhole. com, @jhKitchen. Snake River Grill Offering fine dining in a rustic-elegant setting for 20 years on the Town Square. Our modern American menu features organic produce, prime steaks, game chops and jet-fresh seafood. Our chef has been nominated “Best Chef: Northwest” at the James Beard Awards for the past 3 years. Over 300 wines and a full cocktail and beer list at our intimate new bar. Bar 5:30 & Dining Room 6pm. Reservations at (307) 733-0557 or visit snakerivergrill.com. Spur Restaurant & Bar Voted gold for “Best Chef” 5 years in a row in JH Weekly’s “Best of JH,” Chef Kevin Humphreys’ elevated mountain cuisine has something for everyone. Humphreys uses local, fresh ingredients to create unique variety of appetizers and shared plates, in addition to entrée favorites like Porcini-dusted Steelhead and Zonker Stout braised buffalo short-ribs. Enjoy an après hike cocktail on our expanded terrace and soak in the mountain sunshine and fresh air at the base of Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Located inside Teton Mountain Lodge & Spa (307) 732-6932. Tetonlodge.com. Terra Café Voted Silver for “Best Breakfast Burrito” and bronze for “Best Vegetarian Options” in JH Weekly’s “Best of JH,” Terra Café is an eco-friendly restaurant, dedicated to organic ingredients for breakfast and lunch. Enjoy a selection of crepes, burritos, wraps, sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Enjoy a great breakfast before hiking, biking or river rafting, or slip in for lunch or a break mid-day. We also pack picnics and have items to go for your backpack. Located in Hotel Terra (307) 739-4025. Westbank Grill A modern American steak house inspired by indigenous flavors and local traditions. Prime steaks grilled to perfection on a 1,800 degree infrared grill along with signature side dishes and sauces. Also features an extensive wine list and seasonal farm to table highlights. Enjoy views of

the ski slopes and the outdoor terrace on sunny afternoons. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Complimentary valet parking - ( 307) 732-5620 or Fourseasons.com/Jacksonhole.

Catering

Bistro Catering If you are in need of a private chef for a romantic dinner for two, or a large wedding or gala event for 200 or more with all the bells and whistles, Bistro Catering is your premier choice for excellent service and creative menu design. Bistro Catering will walk with you step-by-step to create the perfect event so you can enjoy the party. Whatever the occasion or location, Bistro Catering will help you create the perfect event. (307) 739-4682, bistrocatering.net, @ jhBistroCater. Dining In Catering Capturing culinary perfection and the rustic nature of the Tetons. We’ll work with you to assure every detail is delicious and just as you had envisioned. Call (208) 787-2667 or visit diningincateringinc.com for more information.

Wine & Spirits

Grand Teton Vodka Distillery Although, less than a year old, Grand Teton Vodka is the #1 ranked potato vodka in the world, with a 2012 Gold Medal and 94 points ranking from the prestigious Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. The Distillery is located just across Teton Pass in Teton Valley, Idaho, just 26 miles from Jackson on Highway 33, part of the Yellowstone-Teton Scenic Loop Drive, one of the West’s ten best scenic drives. Using famous Idaho potatoes and pristine mountain water, the ultra premium vodka, produced in small batches using artisan craft methods, is described as “exceptional, fantastically smooth and flavorful for sipping or martinis.” Available throughout Wyoming, Idaho and Arkansas. Tours offered Tuesday through Saturday. Please call first for groups over 6. 1755 North Hwy 33, Driggs, ID. (208) 35-GRAND (354-7263). tetonvodka.com. Jackson Hole Winery A family owned and operated winery that takes pride in producing fine handcrafted wines in Jackson Hole, Wyoming. The winery sources fruit from some of the highest quality vineyards in the Sonoma and Napa Valleys. Then Jackson’s cool mountain air preserves the wine’s aromatics through a slow fermenting and aging process allowing the wine to develop it’s distinctive personality. jacksonholewinery.com, (307) 2011057. info@jacksonholewinery.com, facebook. com/jacksonholewinery. Westside Wine & Spirits Your one-stop beverage destination on the West Bank. We feature a broad selection of liquors, specialty beers and over 700 fine wines from around the world. Our experienced staff will assist you in planning a party, finding the perfect gift or simply choosing the appropriate wine for any occasion. Located at the Aspens on Teton Village Road. (307) 733-5038. Email westside@ wyoming.com. Wyoming Whiskey The bourbon frontier has moved west. This handcrafted Small Batch Bourbon is made from only Wyoming grains and water sourced from a

deep limestone aquifer near the distillery. Grains are milled daily before being cooked, fermented, and distilled under the direction of Master Distiller, and Bourbon Hall of Fame inductee, Steve Nally, who samples and selects barrels that meet his specific taste profile. Tours are conducted Monday through Saturday from 10am to 3pm in Kirby, Wyoming, which is located 100 miles from Cody, Wyoming. Call (307) 864-2116 to arrange a tour and a taste, or check us out online at wyomingwhiskey.com.

Transportation Precision Aviation, Inc. Precision Aviation offers a variety of aviation services including charter, aircraft management, aircraft maintenance, and pilot service. We are central to all locations in the Western United States with aircraft based in Twin Falls, Idaho and Driggs, Idaho. Precision Aviation can fly you to virtually any destination in the United States, Canada and Mexico. Phone (208) 308-1852, Fax (208) 735-1291, paviation.com.

Real Estate Brokers of Jackson Hole, LLC Brokers of Jackson Hole, LLC is a newly formed company created and owned by hand picked and tenured Jackson Hole real estate brokers who are proven industry professionals. Each Broker-Owner was chosen based on their demonstrated work ethic, their commitment to excellence and their ethical standards. 2012 company sales leaders are Doug Herrick (307) 413-8899 and Jack Stout (307) 413-7118. Jackson Hole Real Estate Associates - Exclusive Affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate JHREA is the regions largest real estate brokerage and the proud recipient of the 2011 Global Affiliate of the Year Award from Christie’s International Real Estate. The reputation of JHREA for exemplary client service and market knowledge combined with the power of Christie’s International Real Estate, the largest network of independent real estate firms, offers a synergy between local strength and global networking. (888) 733-6060, JHREA.com.

A Café with Attitude. A Spa with Altitude. Enjoy a combination of organic and healthy alternatives in Terra Café for breakfast or lunch, and a spa experience like no other at Chill Spa, rated a “Top 10 Organic Spa” by Organic Spa Magazine. Located in Hotel Terra, Jackson Hole’s premier eco-luxury hotel at the base of the Tetons.

Teton Village, WY 307-739-4000 hotelterrajacksonhole.com

Precision Aviation, Inc. excellence in aviation since 2002

Melissa Harrison & Steve Robertson, Associate Brokers - (307) 690-0086, melissaharrison@ jhrea.com Jocelyn Emery, Sales Associate - (307) 690-7138 jocelynemery@jhrea.com. LintonBingle, Associate Brokers, Carol Linton (307) 732-7518, carollinton@jhrea.com and Betsy Bingle - (307) 413-8090, betsybingle@ jhrea.com David A. Neville, Associate Broker - (307) 7349949, davidneville@jhrea.com Jackson Hole Real Estate Company Jackson Hole Real Estate Company is a familyowned company specializing in Real Estate Sales, Property Management, and Reservations. JHRE also provides exclusive Buyer’s Agency Services for the discerning Buyer looking for unique property in Jackson Hole, WY and Teton Valley, ID. Andrew T. Ellett, Full Service Real Estate Consultant. (307) 690-6155 (Mobile), (307) 200-4423 (Direct), andrew@ jacksonholerr.com.

CHARTERED FLIGHTS • AIRCRAFT MANAGEMENT BASED AT THE DRIGGS-REED MEMORIAL AIRPORT 208.308.1852 • WWW.PAVIATION.COM SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Hall and Hall Dedicated to Land and Landowners Since 1946. John Pierce, hallandhall.com, (307) 733-0989 Jackson Office. pierce@hallandhall.com. Jackson Hole Sotheby’s International Realty We outsell all other real estate brokerages combined - 9 local office locations. 185 W. Broadway, Jackson (307) 733-9009 or toll-free (888) 733-9009, jhsir.com. Tom Evans, Associate Broker - (307) 413-5101, Tom.Evans@JHSIR.com, TomEvansRealEstate.com. Mercedes Huff, Associate Broker - (307) 690-9000, Mercedes.Huff@JHSIR.com, mercedeshuff.com. John Resor, Associate Broker - (307) 739-8062, John.Resor@JHSIR.com, shootingstarjh.com. Brandon Spackman, Associate Broker - (307) 739-8156, Brandon.Spackman@jhsir.com, SpackmansInJH.com. Dave Spackman, Associate Broker - (307) 739-8132, Dave.Spackman@jhsir.com, SpackmansInJH.com. Dan Willert, Associate Broker - (208) 313-3334, Dan.Willert@jhsir.com. Jackson Wyoming Real Estate Jackson Wyoming Real Estate is a boutique brokerage offering each and every client personal attention with complete confidentiality. Our mission: Work smart, keep it simple, and focus on what’s important – our customers and clients. Teri McCarthy, Broker/Owner is a 23 year veteran of listing, marketing and selling properties in Jackson Hole. (307) 690-6906, JacksonWyomingRealEstate.com. Prugh Real Estate Prugh Real Estate is an independent, locally-owned agency specializing in commercial, residential and development sales in Jackson and the surrounding Teton Valley. Our team offers more than 60 years of experience in this specialized market. Contact Prugh Real Estate to learn more about opportunities to live and work in Jackson Hole. Greg Prugh (307) 413-2468, g@prugh.com, prugh.com. Live Water Properties Live Water Properties is a unique ranch brokerage company representing clients in the acquisition and disposition of investment grade ranch holdings in Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Colorado, Oregon, Nebraska, Utah and California. Our focus is on recreational ranch real estate, exclusively fly fishing properties, working cattle ranches, big game hunting ranches and conservation ranches. Brokers Alex Maher and John Merritt, toll free (866) 7346100 or (307) 734-6100. alex@livewaterproperties. com, jmerritt@livewaterproperties.com. Ranch Marketing Associates Ranch Marketing Associates represents the top echelon of ranch and recreation real estate brokers throughout the American West. RMA’s Brokerage Team consists of highly experienced business executives who listen and understand their client’s needs. Using inherent knowledge and combined proficiency in real estate negotiations, sales, land use, real estate law, land management, and effective marketing strategies, RMA provides clients with unequaled representation. RMABrokers. com. Ron@RMABrokers.com, (970) 535-0881 andBilly@RMABrokers.com, (970) 948-1333. 162

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RARE Properties of Jackson Hole RARE Properties of Jackson Hole is your Jackson Hole Brokerage. We are locally owned and intently focused on our clients needs! Our team offers decades of experience in this market to effortlessly guide you through buying and selling property. Our Brokers all live and breath the Jackson Hole lifestyle, making your transition a breeze. Our comprehensive market report is noted as the best in the valley. Come in and see why RARE Properties is the Brokerage of choice. A life lived well is a RARE Thing! 307- 60 E Broadway, 2nd Fl - on the Town Square, rarejh. com - (307) 733-8726. Teton Valley Realty 253 S Main Street, Driggs ID 83422, (208) 354-2439, tetonvalleyrealty.com, info@tetonvalleyrealty.com. Mark S. Rockefeller, Broker, (208) 351-1411 Julie Rockefeller, Associate Broker, GRI, (208) 351-1412 Mandy Rockefeller, Associate Broker, GRI, SFR, ABR, (208) 313-3621 William Fay, Sales Specialist, (208) 351-4446 Tayson Rockefeller, Sales Specialist, (208) 709-1333 Dan White, Sales Specialist, (208) 206-1516 Jenna Child, Sales Specialist, (307) 413-4368 Douglas Rey, Sales Associate, (208) 251-7433 Sam Lea, Sales Associate, (208)-351-7211 The Double L Ranch Nestled between meandering bends of the Salt River and 9,000 ft mountain peaks, the Double L Ranch affords the most discerning buyers an opportunity to enjoy a true western paradise. Just 45 minutes south of Jackson Hole in western Wyoming’s wild and scenic Star Valley, the Double L is one of America’s most desirable residential sporting communities. (866) 6844159. dblranch.com.

For the Home

Landscaping

MD Nursery & Landscaping, Inc. For over 20 years we have been servicing Jackson and Eastern Idaho. We are the regions premier landscape contractor, garden center and floral shop. We are conveniently located on Highway 33 in Driggs, Idaho, and just 30 minutes from Jackson, Wyoming. Our landscaping department offers concept to design services as well as full installation of natural landscapes ranging from water features, rock work, ponds, trees & shrubs, sod and irrigation. Stop by and visit our full service greenhouse, gift shop, floral shop and garden café. Summer hours are 9am - 6pm Monday through Saturday. (208) 354-8816. mdlandscapinginc.com.

Interior Design, Furnishings and Architects

Carney Logan Burke Architects Carney Logan Burke Architects maintains a commitment to enhance mountain communities through thoughtful, innovative design and to create a legacy of buildings in tune with the region’s natural beauty. The practice includes community facilities, commercial buildings, resorts, mixed-use complexes, affordable housing and residential architecture in Wyoming and the greater west. We are located at 215 South King Street. (307) 733 - 4000, design@ clbarchitects.com, clbarchitects.com.

Danny Williams Architect Atelier One, Ltd. - Danny Williams, AIA, Architect & Planner, is fully qualified to provide all the architectural, planning, programming and interior design services you require. Located in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, our firm brings to your project more than thirty years of experience with all types of construction in the intermountain area. (307) 733-4307 • dannywilliamsarchitect.com. E. K. Reedy Interiors E. K. Reedy Interiors is an established interior design firm with residential and commercial experience. Our firm is set up as a working studio along with an extensive library consisting of sources for furniture, fabrics, floor coverings, lighting, wall treatments, and accessories, which allows our clientele easy access to the most current design products. 4010 West Lake Creek Drive, Wilson, WY 83014. (307) 739.9121. ekreedy@wyom.net. ekreedy.com. Grace Home Design, Inc. Interior designer Jennifer Visosky has a brilliant way of putting colors and textures together that I wouldn’t have thought to do in my own home. Grace Home Design has always risen to the occasion to bring each space its’ own sense of place and inspired design.” Featured in Design Bureau & Mountain Living magazines, Grace Home Design creates beautiful residential and commercial spaces in Jackson Hole and around the country. Contact our team at (307) 733-9893 or visit our website gracehomedesign.com. Harker Design Harker Design has been providing high-end interior design services for over 30 years. Our long-standing tradition has been to exceed the expectations of our clients by individually customizing each project from concept to finished installation. Visit our showrooms located in Wilson, Wyoming (307) 733-5960; Big Sky, Montana (406) 993-9423; and Idaho Falls, Idaho (208) 523-3323. References available. harkerdesign.com. Jacque Jenkins-Stireman, A Design Studio Interior designer Jacque Jenkins-Stireman simply designs spaces her clients continue to love. Her studio is located at 1715 High School Road in the Flat Creek Business Center. (307) 739-3008. jjstireman@wyoming.com. Laurie Waterhouse Interiors Laurie Waterhouse Interiors is a full-service interior design firm with more than fifteen years experience. Both the retail store and design studio feature home furnishings and accessories including an abundance of design resources. Laurie Waterhouse Interiors offers their clients the opportunity to create the home of their dreams. 90 E. Pearl Ave. in Jackson, WY. (307) 732-0130, laurieinteriors.com, lwi@ laurieinteriors.com. Shannon White Design Shannon White Design is a full service Interior Design firm with offices in Jackson, Wyoming and Portola Valley, California. Shannon designs beautiful, functional and healthy interiors that reflect clients’ personalities and lifestyles and are in harmony with their architecture and the environment. (307) 583-700, shannonwhitedesign.com.

Snake River Interiors Snake River Interiors is a full service interior design firm and retail showroom which features home furnishings, fine art, antiques and accessories from an eclectic fusion of established and emerging artisans and furniture designers within a constantly evolving inventory. They are dedicated to the art of creating spaces and are firmly committed to providing the highest quality level of service to their clients. 164 East Deloney Avenue, Town Square, Jackson, WY, (307) 7333005, snakeriverinteriors.com. Teton Glass Teton Glass “Your Glass and Window Specialists” servicing Teton Valley Idaho and the Jackson Hole area. Featuring Hurd windows & Doors, European shower enclosures, greenhouses, commercial storefront, mirrors, custom glass work, screens, service, repair and installation. Contact us at (208) 313-7169, winston@ tetonglass.com or check us out on the web tetonglass.com. Willow Creek Home Furnishings Visit our showroom, just off the town square at 115 East Broadway. Willow Creek Home Furnishings is an eclectic mix of unique home furnishings, one of a kind local artisan pieces, antiques and area rugs. Our large showroom also features home accessories, jewelry and gifts. Our design team at Willow Creek understands that your home is as unique as you and your lifestyle and we are always available to discuss your interior design project needs. (307) 733-7868. willowcreekhf.com. WRJ Home WRJ Home offers a sophisticated selection of high quality furnishings, unique lighting, decorative objects, luxurious throws, exclusive fabrics and antiques from the 18th century to contemporary. Also offering selected works from local artists and items from the collections of Hollywood Legends and Music Icons. 30 South King Street Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm or by appt. (307) 200-4881. wrjassociates.com.

WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOLS

Medical Centers St. John’s Joint Replacement Center The St. John’s Center of Excellence in Orthopedics is a multidisciplinary endeavor focusing on total joint replacement for hips, knees and shoulders. All joint replacement patients are treated with the latest evidenced based technology and protocols to maximize their safety, comfort and clinical success. St. John’s Medical Center, 625 E. Broadway, (307) 7397501 or (888) 739-7499, tetonhospital.org/coe.

Working Dogs Snake River K9 Snake River K9 specializes in producing worldclass working dogs. We have been breeding, raising and training working dogs, specifically, for personal and family protection, Search & Rescue, and PTSD-assistance since 2005. Our dogs are highly stable and social, obedient and great with children. We focus on three breeds: German Shepherds, Dutch Shepherds and Belgian Malinois. Please contact us directly for appointments or personalized demonstrations. Snakeriverk9.com. (307) 699-7432.

Grand Teton and Yellowstone Expeditions Departing Daily Jackson Hole, Wyoming

(307) 733-2623 www.wildlifeexpeditions.org Nonprofit Organization · Local Biologists Custom Vehicles · Ecofriendly Adventures SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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Just a few things to do in Jackson Hole If you love this map as much as we do, you can buy prints online at www.jhmarketplace.com (it’s under the “arts” tab). 164

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

Jackson n See the New York City Ballet in residence at Dancers’ Workshop (p. 146). n Check out the new Teton County Library (p. 26). n Soak in the views from the rooftop deck at the new restaurant The LIFT. n Climb for free at the Teton Boulder Park at the base of

Snow King. n Watch Footloose at the historic Jackson Hole Playhouse (p. 92). n Enjoy sun and suds at the new beer garden at Bin22 (p. 30).

from the Bridger Gondola to the top of the Tram. n Catch a free Concerts on the Commons performance (p. 128).

Teton Village

Grand Teton National Park

n Order the portobello mushroom fries at The Deck (p. 132). n Hike the new(ish) Cirque Trail

n Get smarter on a free guided hike with a Grand Teton National Park ranger (p. 122).

n Hike all or part of the Teton Crest Trail (p. 116). n Ask questions at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center (p. 28). n Do a breakfast or dinner cruise on Jackson Lake (p. 136). n Hit a performance by Closed Set at the weekly Hootenanny at Dornan’s (p. 38). n Bite into a house-butchered

buffalo ribeye and some of the best views around at The Mural Room (p. 132). n Paddle on String or Leigh lakes (p. 107).

Wilson

n See the spectrum of valley locals over breakfast at Nora’s Fish Creek Inn (p. 132). n Visit the Teton Raptor Center

in the historic Hardeman Barns (p. 167). n Weigh in on our newest microbrewery, Roadhouse Brewing Company, inside Q Roadhouse.

Further Afield n Raft the rapids of the Snake River Canyon (p. 40). n Soak in the Boiling River, four

miles from Mammoth Hot Springs (p. 60). n Drive Yellowstone’s scenic Blacktail Plateau gravel road (p. 59). n Marvel at the petrified trees atop Specimen Ridge in Yellowstone (p. 59). n Go to jacksonholemagazine. com for more details.

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Best of

calendar of events

The Jackson Hole Rodeo breaks out of the chutes at 8 p.m. every Wednesday and Saturday night and select Friday nights through August 31. 166

JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

JACLYN BOROWSKI

ONGOING Evening Art Gallery Walks: Every Thursday from 5 to 8 p.m., July through September. Galleries come together for this weekly walk, setting out wine, and maybe some food, and inviting locals and visitors alike to wander in, even if only to wonder. Grand Teton Music Festival: The Grand Teton Music Festival’s 52nd season starts July 5 and chamber, spotlight, and symphony concerts continue at the acoustically superb Walk Festival Hall at Teton Village through August 17. 7331128; www.gtmf.org Historic Downtown Walking Tours: Do you know the official name of the Town Square? Learn that and more on a free walking tour of Jackson’s downtown led by Jackson Hole Historical Society volunteers. Tours are held Tuesdays and Thursdays beginning at 10:30 a.m. and Saturday afternoons at 2 p.m. from May 28 through September 26. 733-9605 Jackson Hole Rodeo: Every Wednesday and Saturday evening between Memorial Day and August 31, and also many Friday nights in July and August. 733-7927; www.jhrodeo.com

Stagecoach Rides: From Memorial Day through Labor Day; the route is around the downtown area and starts at the Town Square. Town Square Shootout: The longest continually running Wild West-style showdown takes place at 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday from Memorial Day through Labor Day. 733-3316 Raptor Center Tours: Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays at 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. from June 18 through September 26, tour Teton Raptor Center’s rehabilitation center and raptor barn at the historic Hardeman Ranch in Wilson. Tours are approximately one hour and cost $12 for adults, and $10 for 65+ and kids ages 4-12. Kids under 3 are free. 203-2551; www.tetonraptorcenter.org Alive @ Five: 5 to 5:45 p.m. Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from late June through the end of August at the Teton Village Commons. Free programs— from wildlife biologists to raptors and chamber music.

Jackson Hole’s Finest selection of Homes, Cabins and Condominiums in Teton Village and the Aspens. More room, more privacy and less money than most hotels. With over 40 years of combined lodging expertise, Rendezvous Mountain Rentals is the ideal partner for your next Jackson Hole vacation. Toll Free 888.739.2565 | Phone 307.739.9050 Visit our all NEW website at www.rmrentals.com

Symphony @ Six: 6 to 7 p.m. weeknights starting in late June through the end of August at the Teton Village Commons. Relax and enjoy classical music broadcasts for free.

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18 to 19 ElkFest and Elk Antler Auction. A whole weekend of events has grown up around the Jackson Hole Boy Scout Elk Antler Auction. www.jacksonhole chamber.com

7 to 9 38th annual Rod Run. Organized by the Eastern Idaho Early Iron Organization. At the Virginian Lodge. www. eieiocarclub.org 8 Jackson Hole Half Marathon. www.jhhalf.com

24 Rotary Club of Jackson Hole Wine Fest. Taste more than four hundred wines from around the world. 733-4466 24 to 27 Old West Days. Enjoy a parade, stagecoach rides, Old West Brew Fest, carriage show, barn dance, Shootout Gang, Mountain Man Rendezvous, and a roping event. 733-3316; www.jackson holechamber.com 25 Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s Tram Opens for the summer season. 733-2292

16 RaptorFest. Celebrate—and see—birds of prey at the Teton Raptor Center. 2032551; www.tetonraptorcenter.org 21 to 22 Jackson Hole Wine Auction. This benefit for the Grand Teton Music Festival includes a tasting and a tented gala dinner and auction. 732-9961 27 to 29 Jackson Hole Writers Conference. Now in its 21st year. www.jackson holewritersconference.com SUMMER 2013 JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE

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JACLYN BOROWSKI

July

August

4th of July in Jackson Hole includes a pancake breakfast on the Town Square, a parade, fireworks displays, and a rodeo. 733-3316; www.jacksonhole chamber.com

Stomping the Divots. This benefit for the Jackson Hole Therapeutic Riding Association includes an afternoon of polo and an evening of fine dining, auctions, and dancing. 733-1374

6 to 7 Silver Collector Car Show and Auction. www.silverauctions.com

to 11 26th Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival. One of the premier bluegrass festivals in the West! 800-TARGHEE; www.grandtarghee.com

12 to 14 Teton Village Art & Antique Show. Named among the “Top 100 Hot Antique Shows” in the U.S. by Country Home Magazine in 2009. 303/570-9763 19 to 21 8th Annual Targhee Music Festival. Three-day music festival featuring blues, folk, Americana, and roots music at Grand Targhee Resort. 353-2300; www.grandtarghee.com 19 to 21 Art Fair Jackson Hole. Enjoy fine arts and crafts while wandering around Miller Park in downtown Jackson. $5 admission. 733-8792; www.artassoci ation.org 26 to 28 Art Show at Teton Village. Fine arts on the lawn at Teton Village. 19 to 28 Teton County Fair. 733-5289; www.tetoncountyfair.com

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JACKSON HOLE MAGAZINE SUMMER 2013

16 to 18 Art Fair Jackson Hole. Arts and crafts show in downtown Jackson. $5 admission. 733-8792; www.artassoci ation.org 24 Teton Science Schools’ 36th Annual Fundraising Auction. 733-1313

September 7 LOTOJA. This 206-mile bike race starts in Logan, Utah, and ends in Teton Village. www.lotojaclassic.com 5

to 8 Western Design Conference. A showcase of traditional and contemporary western design. www.westernde signconference.com

to 8 Annual Jackson Hole One Fly. This international fly-fishing competition raises money for stream habitat improvement. www.jhonefly.org

The Fourth of July parade is just one of several Independence Day festivities that draws thousands to downtown Jackson.

to 15 29th Annual Jackson Hole Fall Arts Festival. Features fine arts, music, cuisine, and home design. 733-3316; www.jacksonholechamber.com

17th Annual Old Bill’s Fun Run for Charity. Thousands of people have run 5K or 10K, and more than $14 million has been raised. 739-1026; www.cfjacksonhole.org

22 Grand Targhee Lifts Close. 22 Jackson Hole Marathon. It starts at the Town Square and finishes 26.2 miles later in Teton Village. www.jacksonhole marathon.com 28 75th Anniversary Black Tie Blue Jeans Ski Ball. Benefits Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club. 733-6433; www.jhski club.org 29 JHMR Aerial Tram Closes for the season. 733-2292

October 26 Jackson Hole Ski & Snowboard Club Annual Ski Swap. 733-6433; www. jhskiclub.org

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Eagle Crest Lodge at Indian Springs Ranch

· 10,000 plus sq ft · 7 Bedrooms · 7 Fireplaces · Wine Cellar · Theater · 5.68 acres · 2 bedroom Guest home

The Legacy at Indian Springs Greene and Greene inspired

· 6,500 plus sq ft · Exquisite finishes · Expansive Teton Views · 2 Guest wings · Graceful floor plan · Media Room

Indian Springs Ranch Amenities: horse barn and trails, community cabin, swimming, tennis, swan ponds, fishing and hiking trails and open space

Excellence in ART si nce 1963.

Interior shot of Trailside Galleries in Jackson Hole

featured in tHe september 2013 Jackson Hole art auction Images from top: Maynard Dixon (1875-1946), Remuda, oil on canvas, 25 x 30 inches, Estimate: $250,000 - $450,000. Kenneth Riley (1919- ), Chiricahua Sentinels, oil on board, 40 x 35 inches, Estimate: $70,000 - $90,000. Bob Kuhn (1920-2007), Moose, oil on masonite, 13 1/2 x 20 inches, Estimate: $50,000 - $75,000.

Jackson Hole art auction is accepting consignments for our september 14, 2013 auction

Contact: 1-866-549-9278 | coordinator@jacksonholeartauction.com www.JacksonHoleartauction.com

JACKSON HOLE

130 East Broadway, P.O. Box 1149 Jackson, WY 83001 (307) 733.3186

SCOTTSDALE

7330 Scottsdale Mall Scottsdale, AZ 85251 (480) 945.7751

trailsidegalleries.com

EMAIL info@trailsidegalleries.com