Tres restaurant review- Sunday Guardian

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Finally, authentic French food that doesn’t rob you blind 3rd May 2014

TRES 17, MAIN MARKET, LODHI COLONY, LODHI ROAD, NEW DELHI Ph: 01124625520,9971536053 Meal for two: Rs.2,000

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I have scoured through the city's finest restaurants and cafés in search of a place that serves simple, slow, comfort food in relaxed surroundings, where lunch turns into dinner and you only leave after your post-dinner cuppa. I like to linger at restaurants, to pace myself through each course and enjoy the afternoon. Also, modern European fare has been bastardised way too much in India with inauthentic cuisine, diminutive portions and ridiculous prices and I often come home feeling underwhelmed and unsatiated. When I first heard about Tres, therefore, I was very intrigued and decided I had to go. The décor, albeit minimal, is very warm and inviting. I must admit, however, that the acoustics of the place is a tad awry and it tends to get really loud in there on weekend afternoons and busy evenings. The staff is courteous and well-informed. The two-page menu had the quintessential European fare, with salads, sharing plates, large plates of fish, lamb, pork belly and a few for the carb lovers. I dove straight into my starter: spicy chorizo, pork sausage and pancetta, and butter beans and pearl onions. The pork sausage was tender and the tangy tapas relish made up for the chorizo, which was a tad dry and hard. My husband polished off what was left with some bread and tapenade (prepared in-house, of course). Jatin, the chef and owner, sat down with us to have a chat and told us that all their pasta, bread, pastries as well as their relishes were also made in-house. Next came our main course. My husband ordered the prawns and I, as you'd probably guess by now, ordered the pork belly. I'd imagined that a lot of people in Delhi would shy away from a pork belly over the safer choices of lamb, chicken or fish. However, I was wrong; I learnt that the slow cooked pork belly with root mash and spiced jus was the most popular item on the menu. The fatty belly was prepared sous vide; a cooking technique employed by the best chefs around the world to cook meat and preserve all the flavor by cooking the meat, sealed in a plastic bag, in a water bath at controlled temperatures. I love my meat slightly fatty, which is why I was thrilled to learn that they

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didn't trim too much of the good stuff. Pretty satiated post the entrée, my eyes caught a sugar-free item on the menu and had to try it. I ordered the sugar-free blueberry semi freddo that came perfectly plated with caramelised tropical fruit on skewers. I love my dairy and I am an absolute sucker for semi freddos. The dessert was light with just the right amount of sweet and tartness. Just perfect. My husband couldn't choose, so he went with a trio of sorbets — champagne, mango and raspberry — each of which was bursting with flavour. The desserts were a real feast for the eye and the palate, and a wonderful way to round off a meal. Tres, run by the incredible duo Jatin Malik and Julia Carmen Desa shows you that French food doesn't have to be exorbitantly priced or come in diminutive proportions. Instead, they innovate to create the best, freshest French specialties using premium, organic, grass fed ingredients. What I liked about Tres the most, besides the food of course, was that its comfortable seating, soft background music and unobtrusive lighting can make you easily picture yourself in a restaurant with actual Michelin stars.

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Join the discussion… • 3 days

Aayush Soni ago

I think the headline is a bit misleading because most of the dishes are more European than French. One look at the Tres menu confirms that. •

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