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ORGANIZERS

SAG

CONTENT GST UPDATE: 11- Invest in GST Regime by Avinash Mayekar 12- A Comparative Assessment of Impact of GST on Indian Textile Sector by Sumit Parmar 14- Textile Workers Are Still Feeling The Heat, But The Industry Is Back To Normal After GST Roll Out

July 2017 ISSUE EDITORIAL TEAM Editor & Publisher Ms. Jigna Shah Consulting Editor Mr. Avinash Mayekar Graphic Designer Mr. Anant A. Jogale Sales Manager Mr. Md. Tanweer Editorial Assistant Mrs. Namsha T.

INDUSTRY Mr. Devchand Chheda City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group) Mr. Manohar Samuel President, Birla Cellulose, Grasim Industries Dr. M. K. Talukdar VP, Kusumgar Corporates Mr. Shailendra Pandey VP (Head â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sales and Marketing), Indian Rayon Mr. Ajay Sharma GM RSWM (LNJ Bhilwara Group)

EDUCATION / RESEARCH Mr. B.V. Doctor HOD knitting, SASMIRA Dr. Ela Dedhia Associate Professor, Nirmala Niketan College Dr. Mangesh D. Teli Professor, Dean ICT Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay Principal Scientist & Head MPD Dr. Rajan Nachane Retired Scientist, CIRCOT

Mr. Sudhir Verma Knit Experts 242, Pocket 3, Sector 23, Near Max Fort School, Rohini, New Delhi- 110085

Tel : +91-9818026572

July 2017

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INTERVIEW:

15-GWRL : We Stand Strong In Our Market, We Have Created Our Own Niche BUSINESS UPDATE: 17- Sintex Industries partners with Truetzschler And A.T.E. For Their One million Spindle Dream Project 17- Subhash Bhargava Felicitated At India And South Asia Textile Summit 2017 18- Colorjet India Launches Dye Sublimation Textile Printer Aurajet At Gartex 2017 18- Textile Machinery: Growth In Orders Continues For Second Quarter 19- Donear Group acquires GBTL, Grasimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s PV Suiting Fabrics

31- Textile Education Should Sync With Practical Training And Research 38- Stäubli Anniversary: Quality And Innovation As A Driving Force For 125 Years MARKET REPORT: 20- Yarn Report 22- Fabric Report 24- Cotton Report 28- FIBRE FOCUS: An Overview on Fibre Orientation Measure ! " # $

by Faculty of DKTE, Ichalkaranji 32- GARMENT FOCUS: Sustainable Environment with Lean Production in Garment Industry by Faculty of Vaishnav Institute of Technology, Indore, MP FASHION FOCUS: 36- How Fashion Industry Is Changing Through E-commerce Portals 37- ITM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IFDT Hosts an Evening of Design, Fun and Talent EVENT UPDATE 26- Magic Choose Vietnam as their â&#x20AC;&#x153;Focus Countryâ&#x20AC;?

35- Techtextil India Commences this September 39- SHOW CALENDAR

Advertiser Index Back Page: Raymond Back Inside : ITMA 2019 Front Inside : Raysil Page 3: Techtextil India 17 Page 4 : Techtextil Symposium Page 5 : SGS Innovation Page 6 : SKBS

Page 8 : ITSE Page 41 : RSWM Page 42 : Deep Textile Page 43 : UDYOG 2018 Page 44: Garmek Panipat Page 45: Sanjay Plastic Page 46: ITMACH 2017

9

EDITORIAL

GST Will Lead To Innovation

The entire country has been in a roller coaster ride with the new tax system in the last month. Demonetisation, president election and many more unexpected events have changed the world of Politics. Recently the industry was buzzed by the letter written by our PM to the former President Pranab Mukherjee, which said % & & '

( $ & & & $

intellect and wisdom that we were able to work together with synergyâ&#x20AC;?. To this latest buzz the media reacted as if the heavens have come down. We expect new and innovative ideologies from the new set of people in the system.

Industryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big giants are going for JVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to cross country, purchasing and selling the brands, following dis

( ( ) & $ ( ( !$ !$ & dloom cluster, branding handloom fabric and selling to the world. Other level of innovation is adopting fast paced technology and producing functional fabrics for hi-tech andrisk taking generation, next by making sports fabrics / garments / accessories apart from conventional fabrics.

Ninety per cent of our industry is dominated by SMEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s structure, which is still feeling the heat of the new $ & $) * ( + ; < & ( ( ! = ' !$ + ! ( ) *> < & & & game, where they are still trying to understand the new tax system. Most of the implementation of the system will start from this festive season month. We, the industry contributors should modernise our thinking process and adopt the new taxsystemto grow in the global revenue system..!!!

Wish you a very happy Festive Season...!!!

Ms. Jigna Shah

Editor & Publisher

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the

The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors

Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken

10

Innovative Media and Information Co. 189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar, ! "# $ %'''*. $ # <=><?

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# Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka, Andheri (East), Mumbai 400072, $ # <

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2017

GST UPDATE

Invest In GST Regime GST is the latest buzz of the town and is chattered in every corner of textile industry. Many reports and presentations have been published explaining the new tax concept with its impacts in both positive and negative ways.

idea on where abouts and impacts of GST. Though GST is functional now, the current scenario has not changed much as manufacturers are only focusing on restructuring their system and every investmentis sidelined.

The nation is talking about the burdens that manufacturers and consumers will have to face due to higher GST rates on certain commodities. Such situation is bound to happen the new tax reform would. create chaos and people need expertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s opinion to understand the situation and remodel their structure.

But now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to rise as GST regime is very much into place, all the rates and exceptions are announced and the reform of Indian taxation has begun. The centre has clariX $ '& & !

with a positive mindset. There is no going back now, GST isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just a concept anymore, but is the hardcore reality.

* ! $ @* X !$ ( taxation system for the goods and services. This taxa $ $ ! ! X & eliminated all other taxes and duties that we used to pay before the roll out of GST. With this GST regime, everybody will procure, manufacture and sell only through this X $ ) Z & ( & ( ' be considered under the surveillance of GST reform. Thus in this system each and every commodity will be under the scanner creating a transparent module that will facilitate more business opportunities in a structured format.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now time for Indian Entrepreneurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to kick start new ! ( ) Z( ( ! X & & $ &

& &

X ) &

& GST reform is in action and all other policies are also launched. The state governments like Maharashtra, Gujarat, Andhra Pradesh and Jharkhand have come out with economical investment propositions.

While focusing on textile industry, it is observed that there is a gap in understanding GST, given the fact that there were late reactions by most of the industry associations related to the changes and impacts of the GST. Some of & ( X!

case of cotton textile there would be a common GST of 5% till fabric level and at garment level there are two dif ! ) \& $ & X! & an issue as the GST on synthetic yarn which is higher than & @* ! ) & '

tion of GST credits for which till date there is no solution.

However I am positive that government will address this issue and provide a solution at the earliest. & ( ] X X & mentation of GST. They have clearly indicated that GST must be implied and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s already being rolled out from 1st July 2017. Any corrections or alterations then after will be incorporated and executed as and when it is approved.

If we analyse the growth of manufacturing hub in India since 2012, entire world is eyeing on India as a major contributor for global economy. Whereas Indian investors are only eagerly waiting and holding on their new business ventures with the hope of getting better reforms from government. Though in early 2015 all reforms and government initiative were introduced to boost the manufacturing sector and when things just started taking pace, again there was a pause due to demonetisation as an excuse. This slowdown was further dragged on by the announcement of GST asvarious entrepreneurs had little

July 2017

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Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now or never for the investors, they must understand the current situation and enact upon these opportunities.

As far as business house focusing on export market is concerned there are clear cut guidelines of GST for them.

Z

' & country will not have multiple taxes and then transforming into value added products will now be much easier.

Hence, time has come that each and every investor starts investing in carrying out techno economic feasibility report which will assist them to analysis their project viability. We all know it takes a year or two for a proper execution of any project so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s now time to take actions and invest immediately. If we Indians do not take advantage of the situation, then there are foreign investors who are waiting to invest in a big way in our economy and take advantage of Make in India, Skill India and many other new initiatives provided by the Indian government. g

Avinash Mayekar MD & CEO Suvin Advisors Pvt Ltd

11

GST UPDATE

A Comparative Assessment Of Impact Of GST On Indian Textile Sector Goods and Service Tax (GST) rolled out on July 1st, 2017 started a new era of economic reform in the country. GST has subsumed all the central as well as state taxes and brought the country into one single regime thus replacing the complex multiple indirect tax structure. This reform is intended to create India into a single market for manufacturing and selling of goods, bring in greater tax compli ` '& & ' help in improving manufacturing productivity.

GST has now replaced Central taxes and duties such as Excise Duty, Service Tax, Counter Veiling Duty (CVD), Special Additional Duty of Customs (SAD), central charges and cesses and local state taxes, i.e., Value Added Tax (VAT), Central Sales Tax (CST), Octroi, Entry Tax, Purchase Tax, Luxury Tax, state cesses and surcharges and Entertainment tax (other than the tax levied by the local bodies).

GST is a destination based tax structure and it is levied only at the consumption point. Under this structure, a merchant has to pay tax only on the value addition of its product and allows manufacturers and retailers to reclaim input tax credit paid during the purchase of raw material & & ) &

& '& & = ' to the end consumers. @* &

( X( ! ) ) {| }| ~ | ~Â&#x20AC;| Â&#x20AC;| ( ) GST for the textile industry Under the new regime, textile commodities will fall under the 0% to 18% tax cloud. The below given table illustrates & & &

the textile industry: On comparison between the two duty structures, cotton value chain which was exempted of any excise duty (ex-

value chain, which was earlier paying 12.5% excise duty X! $ ( Â ( Â&#x201A;Z Â&#x192; * Â&#x201E; ' ' $ now pay 18% GST for the same. This indicates that the textile industry will be paying higher taxes overall.

Textile industry faces a unique issue in the presence of

$

! & X! (

& ' & X ( & ) &

was prevalent in the earlier tax regime and is still relevant for the new GST regime. The result of such a structure is the accumulation of duty at a certain point in the value chain wherein the duty paid on the input is higher while the duty on the output is comparatively lower. This accu

$ ! & & X

!$ & & Â&#x192; & ! &

$ which in turn leads to higher prices.

Now, with the onset of higher duties, the quantum of duty accumulation will increase which will lead to further increase of prices.

To analyze these implications, four basic value chains have been considered which encompasses the majority of textile production in India. a) 100% Cotton Value Chain b) MMF Rich Blended Value Chain - PC (65/35) c) Cotton Rich Blended Value Chain - PC (48/52) d) 100% MMF Value Chain â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PV (50/50) Implications on 100% cotton value chain: Cotton textile value chain attracts a singular rate of 5% across the value chain except on cotton garments with retail value of more than Rs. 1000 per piece. Due to a constant duty rate being charged on subsequent products (with higher value addition) across the value chain, there will be no duty accumulation. At each stage of this chain, manufacturer will be able to avail input credit on the purchase of raw material and will only pay duty for the value addition. Due to the balanced tax structure,

 ) ) X! $ ! Â&#x201E; are not expected to increase. However, on the retail end of the chain, prices of cotton garments (value more than Rs. 1,000) will rise due to higher duty paid by the retailer. !

$ ; ' ~{{| ( & = ~ = X! & ( subsequent products. At retail level, retailers keeping price points above Rs. 1,000 per garment will have to pay approximately 4 times higher net duty to government as compared to garments sold at price points below Rs. 1,000.

clusive of VAT/CST) will now have to pay a minimum of }| $ ) \& >>

12

This will lead to the following two scenarios: a) Dip in prices of low cost garments below Rs. 1,000 per

www.textilevaluechain.com

July 2017

GST UPDATE

>> & X! & $ at that level will become greater than at the subsequent yarn stage which will trickle down to fabric also.

This situation will result in blended yarn manufacturers keeping MMF component on the higher side in the blend composition as compared to the cotton component in order to avoid duty accumulation at this stage.

garment so that they are subjected to 5% rate b) Increase in prices of high cost garments above Rs. ~ {{{ & $ ' X $ & & duty rate of 12% Implications on MMF Rich Blended Value Chain: This situation is particularly complex for 100% MMF and >> ! ( & & X ( & X! Â&#x192;$ Â ~Â&#x20AC;|Â&#x201E; ! ( Â }|Â&#x201E;) & $ ' & & X! $ ( & & ( ( & segment i.e. fabric which will lead to duty accumulation at the weaving stage.

Implications on 100% MMF Value Chain: A 100% MMF value chain will face the implication as that of MMF rich value chain wherein there will be duty ac

& ! ) & & & $ paid on raw material i.e. yarn, weavers will increase the prices of fabric which will further result in increased garment prices.

Source: Wazir Analysis

& ! ( & ' !

$ ; ' $ Â Â&#x2020;}Â&#x192;Â&#x2021;}Â&#x201E;) &

! $ X & ! ( is smaller than the cumulative duty paid on the input raw ) ) X! $ ( duty. This means that weaver will not be able to reclaim full input credit on purchase of yarn and hence the weaver will increase the price of fabric in order to mitigate the ) & ! ' & ; & increased prices of MMF blended garments.

Implications on Cotton Rich Blended Value Chain: Duty structure under this chain will be such that duty accumulation will occur at both yarn and fabric stage. As mentioned earlier, a cotton rich value chain will attract 5%

$ ( Â ) ) X! $ ! )Â&#x201E; & ' (-

July 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

Conclusion Z X !Â&#x2C6; ( @* ' & ( ( ; ence on the textile industry in terms of eliminating distortions in the tax system, reducing compliance for industry, facilitation of input tax credit etc.

Sumit Parmar Wazir Advisors

13

GST UPDATE

Textile Workers Are Still Feeling The Heat, But The Industry Is Back To Normal After GST Roll Out After initially opposing and resorting to violent protests in Gujarat, Tamil Nadu and other clusters in the country, textile traders have at last given up and are now rushing for GST registration through online and other means. A week ago, the most awkward situation was witnessed in Surat where the textile traders not only dissolved the GST Sangharsh Samiti, but also kicked out the Samitiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s founder president for misleading the industry and taking the stir against GST in the wrong direction. Fellow members alleged that Tarachand Kasot wasted 19 days of Surat Textile Industry for something which was â&#x20AC;&#x153;almost impossible to achieveâ&#x20AC;?.

The textile traders in Surat continued their stir for 19 long days, despite being baton charged and facing arrest by the police, to protest imposition of GST which they feared will destroy the livelihood of over six million fami ) & $ & stir after failing to get governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ! ! ; massive loss of more than 2,800 crore rupees in Surat alone, according to a rough estimate. â&#x20AC;&#x153;After protesting for about three weeks, textile traders realised that they do not have any option but to go along with what the government has decided. It is hence they called & ' &ing for GST registrationâ&#x20AC;?, Ajoy Bhattachariya, former president of South Gujarat Chamber of Commerce, and himself a textile trader, said while talking to Textile Value Chain. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Routine operation in the city is also coming down to normal though it will take months before the industry comes running to its fullest potentialâ&#x20AC;?, he added.

Situation in Bhiwandi and Malegaon & ' ( $ ) ' loom units in the two leading textile clusters producing the major share of

14

grey fabrics and known for their 24x7 culture are still struggling for normalcy. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Majority of powerloom units in Malegaon are running for just 3 to 4 days a week since the roll-out of GSTâ&#x20AC;?, Tarique Mahmood of Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fabrics said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We have all done with GST registration and other necessary requirements. But the problem is that grey cloth merchants and traders in Pali, Balotra and other centers have not yet done their registration hence they are refusing to buy our produceâ&#x20AC;?, he said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Under such a situation it will be suicidal if we run textile units for the entire weekâ&#x20AC;?, he added.

Malegaon alone has about 2.5 lakh powerlooms and produces about 2 crore meters of grey fabrics every day. The city has just three processing units and hence most of the grey fabrics are sent for processing outside.

The case with the powerloom weavers in Bhiwandi is also more or less same. But the important factor in the two cities which came out very strongly post GST era is that there was no unrest or anger against the governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision to impose the levy. Majority of the weavers in the two cities had made up their mind from the day one to adjust their business as per the new situation and were ready to face the challenges whatsoever. It is however the labour & '& & '

due to slowdown in the post GST era.

Going by the record, wages of labors who are running 12 looms is about Rs 500 per day and they used to carry home some 2,800 to 3,000 rupees in ' =) & $ !

powerloom units are running just for 3-4 days a week. â&#x20AC;&#x153;A labor was paid about 3000 rupees every week before GST was imposed and the powerloom units were run-

ning all weekdays. Now he is left with a meager 1000 to 1500 or a maximum of 2000 rupees in a week. It has be ` & ( ( this sumâ&#x20AC;?, Abdur Razzaq, who is working as a supervisor-cum-technician, said. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Some had postponed marriages and other family functions. Still, they had to borrow from others so that they can meet regular expenses, especially of the school going children as the academic year has just begun and money is needed to buy textbooks and notebooksâ&#x20AC;?, he added.

Meanwhile, the Goods and Services Tax (GST) Council in its 20thmeeting on Saturday August 05, 2017 slashed the GST rate on textile job work from the existing 18% to 05%. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One big issue was tax rate for job work in textiles sector. A consensus was evolved that the GST rate for job work throughout the textile chain and even for textile-related items such as apparels, shawls, carpets will be 5 per Â&#x201E; Â&#x2030; X Z Â&#x160; $ told reporters after the meeting.

Earlier, the GST for job works related to textile yarns, other than man-made X! ! ' {}| '& X! ' ~Â&#x20AC;|) However, the decision has failed to impress the industry as there is a demand to completely abolish the GST on job work. The industry is also upset because the GST Council did not pay heed to their demand of uniform rate on entire textile chain. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The industry demand was to completely abolish GST on job work and bring uniform GST rate for entire chain. The GST Councilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s decision to reduce GST rate on job work will not & ( $ X & pact on the challenges the industry is facing after the imposition of the levyâ&#x20AC;?, Abdullaj Makki of Malegaon Industries & Manufacturers Association (MIMA) said.

www.textilevaluechain.com

Aleem Faizee

July 2017

INTERVIEW

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;We Stand Strong In Our Market, We Have Created Our Own Nicheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

& ' ( X = Z culture, Aquaculture etc are picking up with better awareness of consumers and government support. There could ! ;

& ' ( these are generally short term in nature and we expect that over the next 5 to 10 years the Indian technical textile would growth at 7 to 8%.

What is the impact of GST in technical textile? Are there any rules where small dealers canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do business outside the state, is it true?

Sanjay V Raut

Shujaul Rehman

Garware-Wall Ropes Ltd. (GWRL), is one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading players in technical textiles with customers and end-users across the world. Deploying its expertise in engineering of polymers and its in-depth knowledge of customer needs, the company provides application focused solutions for (

+ X & ]

shipping, agriculture, sports, infrastructure, defence and transportation. GWRL has integrated manufacturing facilities in Pune and Wai, where a range of products are produced, including ropes, nets and aquaculture cages for

! X &Â&#x152;

& Â&#x152; & & &+(

Â&#x152; ! ( )Â&#x152; products and solutions for water management, waste management, and erosion-control applications.

Textile Value Chain spoke to Shujaul Rehman , CEO and Sanjay Raut, President â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Technical and New Businesses of GWRL about their manufacturing prowess, performance in the technical textile market and future plans.

& ' & & $) X & there was no tax before GST and now with the tax slab of ~ | & ! & for a while, whereas agriculture sector is positive. Overall, with the implementation of GST, we should see ease of movement of goods thereby speeding up our products to the customers. As far as our dealers are concerned, most of them are running their businesses within the tax ambit, and if at all we have any small dealers working with

' ' ' & & & X

regulations Tell us about your recent MoU with Israelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Aero-T The MoU with Aero- T marks another step on our â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; approach wherein we along with Aero T will be able to cater to the needs of the Indian Defence by providing completely indigenised aerostats backed by our reliable delivery and maintenance support. The MoU between GWRL and Aero-T envisages intention of the parties to establish future co-operation between both companies to facilitate a fully indigenised development, production, delivery and maintenance support for advanced aerostats required for both military and civilian use. The intended co-operation will entail GWRL establishing an aerostat envelope production facility and Aero-T providing the technology, know-how, integration, acceptance and continuous support for the aerostats development & production.

Simultaneously, there will be co-operation with Indian R&D establishments, such as DRDO/ADRDE and the end customers to understand their needs and co-develop customised solutions.

How do you brand your products?

Why is the technical textile market in India not growing as expected?

The Indian technical textiles market is currently estimated at USD 14 billion and is a vast industry overall holds out a bright future. Currently, we can say that overall growth

July 2017

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As a company, we are very brand centric and have strong brands in each of the segments we operate in. Our !

X ' a lot of mass contact programs, road shows etc to create awareness and drive preference for our brands. Since most of our customers are B2B, we believe in connecting with them directly rather than through any mass adver ) X & ' & (

15

INTERVIEW

Â&#x2C6; ! & X & ) Â&#x2018;Â&#x2019;Â&#x201C; team understood this pain area of our customers and we launched our STAR and SAPHHIRE range of cage nets.

These cage nets have Zero shrinkage, easily cleanable and have much better properties versus Nylon cages. This has been a game changer and has led to many aquaculture farmers in Europe and Canada to shift to our STAR and SAPPHIRE range of products. We are continuously innovating and ensure that we understand the needs of our

& how we are always ahead of competition and this aids us in enhancing our market shares.

strong distribution network and a dedicated team across the entire coast of India. We conduct lots of awareness Which countries are you targeting for aquaculture? ' = & X & ( & In aquaculture we have a very strong market presence in social support and education.

UK, Norway, Canada etc. We have recently branched out How do you compete with your competitorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in India into Chile and Mediterranean and in the future, we expect as well as in international market? to have market leadership status there as well.

For us, our Mission Statement: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Provide Innovative Ap-

plication Focused Solutions to Enhance Value of our Cus- ies, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the current status? tomers Globallyâ&#x20AC;? is the core for anything we do. For us, of (

& @ ' $ $ ' & & ' X & $ customers is the key. And herein, our R&D team plays a India. Our customers take pride and feel worryfree in usstellar role. We have a robust innovation funnel wherein @ X & X & ( $the Voice of Customer is central to our product develop- ages. We enjoy a 65%+ market share in the Indian Trawl ment. We are not in the commodity play and have cre- X &

$ ( ( ated our own string niche by providing technologically & & !

& X & advanced products globally. The success of our approach ! X & & ) can be gauged from the fact that we hold leadership sta- Whether products developed from HDPE and PP are tus in many of the segments that we operate in India as environment friendly? well as in International markets especially in Europe and HDPE and PP are biodegradable (Breakdown to Carbon the Americas. & Hydrogen), widely recyclable and they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contains

- heavy metals and also, they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t generate toxic gases, tors? thus HDPE & PP are environmental friendly to the large

& & ( extent. our customers. We do not rest on our laurels and con- We have recently developed a green polymer, which is tinuously strive to make our own products obsolete with completely environment friendly. It is produce from sugnewer and better products. Today, value added products arcane and not from petrochemicals, however the cost of contribute more than 50% of our revenue and in the com- it is little higher than HDPE and PP, but we believe it will ing years, this is bound to go higher with our upcoming slowly gain traction in the coming years ( ( ) What is your Price scale?

To quote an example, in the aquaculture business, Nylon nets were used before to make cages. Nylon shrinks, ab- As stated earlier, we are not in the commodity play. For ! ' ( $ !$ '& & us, delivering enhanced value to our customers is the key.

And thus, our products are always at a premium versus the competition. GWRL products add a lot of value to our customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s businesses and they readily collaborate with us for new game changer products.

What is Garwareâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s future investment plan in the next 5 to 10 years?

We have a strong growth appetite and aim to enhance our market leadership status in the various segments that we operate in. Towards this, we invest continuously in our R&D, manufacturing and our people to achieve our goal of being the preferred partner of our customers world over.

16

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July 2017

BUSINESS UPDATE

Sintex Industries Partners With Truetzschler And A.T.E. For Their One Million Spindle Dream Project Truetzschler India and A.T.E. recently completed phase one of the prestigious Sintex Industries â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Yarn Divisionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s project of 1 million spindles at Rajulah, Amreli, in Gujarat.

The project once fully operational will produce cotton, melange and linen yarns.

The idea to set up the plant came with the announcement of the Gujarat Textile Policy and also from the changing dynamics in the Chinese textile industry at that point of time. Subsidised interest costs under the TUFS also proved to be the major impetus along with low labour cost and the power subsidy in Gujarat. Finally, since Gujarat is a major supplier of cotton, we expected a lower logistical cost for sourcing the raw material. The ' & Â&#x2021; { {{{ & X & '& & is completed. A similar number in the second phase is going on and 360,000 spindles in the last phase will be completed by 2018.

= & & X & * < ject, the A.T.E. and Truetzschler India teams met the management of Sintex Industries. A small memento was presented to Amit Patel, Group Managing Director of the Sintex Group, by G V Aras, Director of A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd. and Joseph Thomson, Director of Truetzschler India.

B. B. Sharma, CEO and Girish Mahajan, Vice-President (Projects) of Sintex were also present during the occasion with Ashish Sharma, Vice President of Truetzschler India and Sandeep Bakshi, Regional Head, A.T.E. Enterprises Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad.

A total of 160+ Truetzschler cards were delivered with matching blow-room capacity. Of this, 54 Truetzschler

& & X installation in India where such a large number of cards are operating under a single roof. All the machines are running satisfactorily. Truetzschler machinery for the next phase is also under delivery right now. A total of Rs. 5,600 - 5,800 crores will be invested and once completed it will be the largest textile mill to house one million spindles at a single location in India.

Subhash Bhargava Felicitated At India And South Asia Textile Summit 2017 Subhash Bhargava, Managing Director of Colorant Ltd, a leading reactive dyes manufacturer and exporter based in Ahmedabad was felicitated at India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017 for his contribution to the Indian Dyes industry. The event was jointly organised by The Textile Association of India (TAI) and ECV International, China in Mumbai at Four Seasons Hotel on June 7-8, 2017. It had excellent response from the technocrats, industrialists, manufacturers, traders, educationist from the participating from 12 countries as well as local government dignitaries prompted the Textile Association (India) to take up the challenge of organising the India & South Asia Textile Summit 2017.

quality, consistency and speciality is second to none in the industry.

S. Bhargava delivered a very very interesting presentation

Â&#x201C;$ dustry.

S. Bhargava being in the dyes industry for more than three decades has seen the ups and downs of the dyes industry. Under his able leadership colorant has being ! & ! ( jor multinational and national dyes manufacturers. The

July 2017

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17

BUSINESS UPDATE

Colorjet India Launches Dye Sublimation Textile Printer Aurajet At Gartex 2017 y Aurajet can run low GSM paper starting from 45 GSM, thus bringing down production cost y Aurajet achieves maximum speed of 34 sq. metres y Â&#x2013;

!$ = fect colours

is bundled with COLORGATE RIP to give vibrant colours and also comes with new CB100 inks, for best results in sportswear, apparel and home furnishing applications.

ColorJet is also showing its tech loaded digital textile printer, the TXF, which has been manufactured incorporating the latest technology, which imparts the printer ' & & ' ! $ ; ' $ ' & duced maintenance.

The printer can achieve print resolutions of up to 1,440 dpi and is best suited when it comes to sampling and short runs, particularly suitable for fashion designers and home textiles applications. TXF is available to work with reactive inks for printing onto natural fabrics and also disperse inks for printing onto polyester fabrics.

Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest wide format digital printer and also a winner of several awards in the last few months, ColorJet India Ltd launched the Aurajet dye sublimation textile printer at Gartex 2017, which was held from July 29-31, 2017 in New Delhi. Alongside, Colorjet also showcased the recently launched TXF digital textile printer along with its best selling model, the Vastrajet.

The Made-in-India Aurajet, which is running successfully in Australia, Sri Lanka, Saudi Arabia and other parts of world, is the perfect choice for dye sublimation users as it can easily run low GSM paper starting from 45 GSM which ' &

& !$ = perfect colours.

The sturdy industrial built of the Aurajet helps in ensuring that the machine runs for years and years, while achieving maximum speed of 34 sq. metres, thereby providing huge production runs. It comes with advanced feed and a take-up system for precise paper movement. The Aurajet

The TXF printer which is equipped with industrial printheads gives variable dot control for achieving smooth gradations and is also belt driven, which makes it suitable for printing fabrics including bulky textured materials, thinner fabrics and also stretchable fabric materials such as knits. & + + & + ` $ Â&#x201A; Â&#x2C6; printer is a commercial grade entry level digital textile printer, which meets the normal daily requirements of a textile printing house, while being suitable for a variety of fabrics like cotton, silk, wool, polyester and their blends, including for stretchable and normal fabrics.

The structure of the Vastrajet is excellently designed to handle high speed production and precise dot placements, while the proprietary AIVC technology ensures high precision printing. The high speed is achieved through specially designed jetting controls to optimise printheads performance, to match the high jetting frequency.

Textile Machinery: Growth In Orders Continues For Second Quarter According to data compiled by the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT), the order index for textile machinery during the period from April to June rose by 26% compared to the same period in 2016. The value of the index stood at 117.3 points (basis: 2010=100). * X $ X ders was recorded for domestic market, where the index stood at an absolute value of 92.9 points (+66% over

18

April-June 2016). On foreign markets, the increase amounted to 22%, and the absolute value of the index stood at 123.4 points.

ACIMIT president, Alessandro Zucchi expressed the satisfaction of the entire sector, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The data conX & ( $ $ underway for our domestic market. This is the third consecutive quarter that the order index is on the rise.â&#x20AC;?

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July 2017

BUSINESS UPDATE

Donear Group Acquires GBTL, Grasimâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s PV Suiting Fabrics Business, To Expand Its Product Offering bilities, the acquisition also gives Donear an access to strong nation-wide retail network, wholesalers and multi-brand outlets through which we will expand our reach.â&#x20AC;?

The textile focused Donear Group has been scouting for a larger addressable market with additional product categories. The terms of the transaction are not announced yet, and will be disclosed at the appropriate forums through wider communication to all stakeholders. The acquisition has been funded by the promoters of Donear, and there is no plan to bring in any strategic investor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Indian or foreign â&#x20AC;&#x201C; on board as of now.

However, there are plans to bring in strategic stakeholders in due course of time.

The acquisition of Grasim Bhiwani Textiles gives Donear Group world-class manufacturing capabilities, iconic fabric brand and an access to the marquee customers globally ( & ' X $ & X ! = & !

the Donear Group has announced acquisition of Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited, the Poly-Viscose suiting fabrics subsidiary of Grasim Industries. The acquisition of Grasim Bhiwani Textile Limited (GBTL) gives Mumbai-based Donear Group a strategic edge in global textiles business in terms of world-class production capabilities to market products and access to the marquee customers globally.

GBTL is the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest manufacturer of PV and PW Suiting, selling its products under the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Grasimâ&#x20AC;? and â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gravieraâ&#x20AC;? brands in India and 25+ countries outside India.

The biggest strengths of GBTL are its quality conscious trade partners and global customers, who have been associated with them for a long time. GBTL caters to international fashion houses in the US and the UK, supplying fabric to them for making garments. These garments are available in some of the largest retail chain stores. The Donear Group aims to build further on GBTLâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s existing strengths.

Talking about the acquisition, Rahul Rajendra Agarwal, Director, Donear Group said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The GBTL acquisition is driven by our desire to expand our business both PAN India as well as in global markets, and progress towards our strategic goal to become the recognised leader in

( ' = share. This GBTL acquisition will utilise strengths of both partners in terms of infrastructure, manpower and product portfolio. Apart from the world-class production capa-

July 2017

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Krishnamoorthy, Managing Director of GBTL, appointed !$ Â&#x201C; @

% = abundant opportunities for companies with robust infrastructure and in-house manufacturing capacities, different types of product categories, good customer base, speed to market and absolute focus on textiles as their core business. In India, huge opportunity exists for fabric in Over-the-Counter (OTC), Readymade Garments (RMG) and exports segments. Taking on the vision of â&#x20AC;&#x153;Make in Indiaâ&#x20AC;?, both Donear and GBTL will maintain their individ ' $ ! ucts and services to their valued customers as one team.â&#x20AC;?

Talking about the management of the two units post acquisition, Agarwal said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The GBTL plant will be run by existing Unit ' & ! X

advice from Donear promoters. We assure to our internal and external customers that there will be no change in the work culture and they will continue to experience the same services at all stages. Over time, we will leverage synergies to create a stronger entity with formidable presence in Indian fashion textiles industry.â&#x20AC;?

Post-acquisition, in the medium term, both entities will continue to focus on their respective brands like Grasim Suiting and Graviera Suiting(GBTL) and Donear and Royal Classico Suiting (Donear) in India as separate teams.The ' & utilise their combined product basket to serve to its customers. Donear will continue its focus on the OTC segment while strengthening its network pan-India and will expand its product portfolio in domestic and international market.

19

YARN REPORT

Crude Oil: Price gains on easing oversupply concerns

Crude oil posted its biggest weekly gain in the last week of July this year since late May was a hike on the last Friday as data in the last week of July eased concerns about surplus supplies, after Saudi Arabia pledged to lower imports while U.S. crude supplies fell more than expected.The market was strengthened by larger than expected inventory drawdowns and signals from Saudi Arabia that the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s biggest oil producer would further reduce output in August. Saudi Arabia pledged earlier this week to lower crude exports to 6.6 million barrels per day (bpd) in August, almost 1 million bpd below the level last year.The US crude futures settled at US$ 49.71 a barrel, up US$ 3.94 from previous week while European Brent crude futures settled at US$ 48.06 a barrel, rose US$ 4.46on the week. U.S. crude futures gained 8.6% for the week while Brent climbed 9.3% The gains in Brent pushed the ! ' & ' ! &marks to the widest in two months.

X ( X = Â&#x2013; & reported its weekly count of oil rigs operating in the United States ticked down by two rig to a total of 766.

For the month, 10 oil rigs have been added, the fewest for a month since May 2016. Both markets are seeing a strong move in spreads through most of 2017 and 2018 due to shorts cover & ($

; ')

20

Polyester chain: PTA and MEG up, chips down

Ethylene prices in Asian markets rose day by day during the last week in July buoyed by limited product availability, higher downstream PE values coupled with a bullish buying sentiments in the region. The price rise was also a result of high upstream energy costs and strong downstream products demand. Formosa Petrochemical plans to shut its 1.2 mmt per year No.3 cracker, located at Mailiao, Taiwan, on August 15, 2017 for a maintenance turnaround. In Europe, ethylene spot market gained on tightness in supply amid turnaround season in August.

In US, July ethylene contracts are expected to fall on lower spot prices.

Paraxylene prices in Asia rose during the start of the week but fell midweek only to rise weekend supported by strong energy values and bolstering market sentiment. In US, spot paraxylene moved up amid healthy exports and strong buying interest. In Europe, paraxylene market was bullish during the week tracking Asian gains.

Mono ethylene glycol prices in Asia rebounded during the week amid healthy transactions and decent demand. The market was also pulled up due to delay in plant restarts and unplanned shut downs thereby creating supply tightness in the market.

In Europe, spot MEG moved up this ' = X = tals and better demand. In US, MEG contract prices were assessed at an

increase from June due to steady US markets and higher prices in Asia. Pu X & & = $ under adjustment this week and downstream weaving and texturing enterprises lowered run rates due to high temperature and poor demand.

In Europe, contract prices were stable on lack of fresh indications. In US, July PTA contracts were unsettled and spot prices rolled over on the week.

Polyester chip prices were down in Asian markets despite upticks in upstream energy and MEG values. Semi dull chip market in China weakened & ' =) ' !

the week, but trading was insipid. Pol$ X $ ' ble across China, India and Pakistan

!$ X ' ) In China, PFY market saw thinner sales and players mainly held back on sidelines citing the mixed signals from raw materials market. Overall sales were lukewarm, and PFY values are expected to continue the rangebound. In Pakistan, selling indications for DTYs were generally unchanged with some spec maintaining stable Â&#x161; & = ) " ' $ $

$ = & @* ) $ X! prices declined in China while prices saw uptrend in India and Pakistan. = $ X! covered in the past four weeks with a sharp rise this week on healthy demand and moderate transactions.

Nylon Chain: Rising CPL and nylon chips push NFY prices up Benzene prices in Asian markets fell opening the last week of July but moved up gradually throughout the week in line with rising crude oil prices. In US, benzene spot prices fell despite rise in crude oil values. The prices saw the most pressure from lower styrene values as derivative styrene prices weakened. Marathon shuts US benzene, toluene units in

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July 2017

YARN REPORT

Kentucky. In Europe, benzene spot market was under downward pressure this week with prices moving lower amid increased supply and rather stable demand.Caprolactum prices moved up in Asian markets on X =

$ during the week. Although, buyers adopted cautious attitude with expectation of increased supply in future while demand was rigid. Given rangebound benzene and eased supply constraint, CPL market will move in a limited range, losing strength to inch up further.

struggled amid persistent oversupply.

In Europe, chemical grade propylene prices hit a 6-week high while propylene contract reference price for Z

& ! $ X rollover fromJuly.

Z $ ' ; Z markets amid decent downstream demand and limited supply. In China, buying interest was picking up onexpectation of hikes and lower inventory of suppliers, and ACN prices are likely to see the upward momentum. In US,

$ ' X improving supplies in the market. In Europe, spot acrylonitrile prices were down while contract prices settled

$ & &) Z $ Xbre prices were stable to up in China while they rolled over in India and Pakistan. In China, prices inched up and demand rallied up slightly. As downstream mills slightly increased the replenishment volumes in line with X = ( turned better. Prices rolled over in India and Pakistan after the revision in mid-July.

up in China and Pakistan while they remained unchanged in India. In China, market saw upward momentum recede during the week. However, downstream mills turned cautious, and only maintained small-volume requirements. As a result, VSF producers saw limited fresh sales, but they still presented steady mindset on support of previous orders. In Pakistan, VSF prices rose over a surge of import prices and healthy demand. In India, ( X! = $ remained unchanged on the week. Â&#x201A; X $ = Z were stable to weak amid thin trading atmosphere, as buying interest appeared to be low. As a result, inventory at some VFY producers piled up.

$ Â&#x201A; " ( '& actual liquidity was lusterless, as buying interest was low amid thick sidelined stance among converters. In India, VFY prices were revised down with no improvements in demand, both in the domestic and export markets.

Nylon or polyamide chip prices surged Cotton: Prices up on high demand in Asian markets on high cost presUS cotton futures on the ICE rose for sure amid and snug supply.Semi-dull second straight week, up about 0.6% ! & $ & X

Prices were also high as better than ther, boosted by tight availability and expected weekly export sales data improved buying sentiment. Trading from the U.S. government suggested values for bright conventional spin& & & X! ) ning nylon-6 chips inched on decent In Pakistan, slow trading was recorded demand for high-end products.Nylon at the Karachi Cotton Exchange while X $ =

& spot rates decreased. Textile industry back of strong caprolactum and nyfederal secretary said Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cotlon chip cost although demand was ton production is likely to increase ) Â&#x201C; X this year, as Punjab is successful in and FDY was better than expectation increasing the area under cultivation while demand for other products was just tepid. Overall, nylon yarn market Viscose Chain: VSF price continues !$ Â&#x203A;|) ( ently with coarser ones gaining and is expected to march higher slowly. uptrend X ) Â&#x2018; '

& (

! "# $ Â&#x201A; X! = ( hit cotton and millet in Gujarat and to up Rajasthan, where farm experts now fear pest infestations.

Propylene prices in Asia saw mixed price trends in the last week of JulySpun Yarn: Viscose and blended although demand sentiments were yarn prices up in India strong amid tight supply. However, Cotton yarn markets continued to rethe increase in demand may not be main tepid in China amid shrinking sustained as market sources noted spot trades, however prices were stathat August and September were ble on the week. Margins further deweak demand season for propylene. teriorated at spinning mills, as cotton In US, propylene markets saw little

' $ ( $ X & support from crude oil pricing, which domestic market. In India, the stability

July 2017

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21

YARN REPORT in China and rolled over in Pakistan while it rose sharply in India during the week. In China, polyester spun yarn market weakened and transactions were moderate. In India, polyester spun yarn prices have jumped by nearly 8% in the past four weeks over & $ X!er prices. In Pakistan, polyester yarn

' ; = amid stable fundamentals. of cotton yarn prices was due to the weakness of demand. In Pakistan, cotton yarn prices remained unchanged in the last week while prices fellon the export market, after a fall in buying interest from the foreign customers. $

$

Â&#x201A;

$ ' ; China amid lackluster trading atmosphere. Downstream buying interest remained subdued discussions were largely heard to be range-bound. In India, viscose yarn prices were hiked after many weeks of stability due to

X Â&#x201A;* ) = stan, viscose spun yarn prices edged up sharply for few specs while it fell for other specs in Karachi market.

Blended yarn prices marched north in China and India while it was generally stable in Pakistan. In India, spun yarn prices have continued rising in the past week in India. Both PC and PV prices were seen climbing up in Ludhiana. In Pakistan, the market activities were subdued and prices notionally rolled over.

For more information please contactSheetal Rohra Sheetal@YnFx.com +91 22 66291122

FABRIC REPORT

Woven Fabric Exports Tad Down In May 2017 Woven fabric exports were down 4% both in terms of shipment and value and 11 per cent in May 2017.

Shipments aggregated 361 million sq meters during the month valued at US$ 268 million or Rs 1,700 crore. Total domestic production in all sectors was at 5,335 million sqmotres during May, implying exports accounting for about 7% for the month. Unit value realisation averaged US$ 0.74 per sq. metre in May 2017, the same as in May 2016 but down Rs 2 in Rupee terms at Rs 47.30 per sq. metre.

This May 141 countries imported woven fabrics from India, with Bangladesh being the largest importer, followed

by UAE and Sri Lanka. The thee together accounted for 35 per cent of total woven fabrics during the month. In May 2017, 11 countries did not import any fabric from India as they did last year. However, they were replaced by 18 countries which imported fabric worth US$ 4.6 million this May. Afghanistan, Hungary, Suriname, Lithuania, Malta, Denmark, Austria, Maldives, Nepal and Estonia were the 10 fastest growing markets for woven fabrics, and account-

22

ed for 3 per cent of total value exported in May. Cotton Fabrics Dominates Woven fabrics made of 100% cotton accounted for 42 % of all fabrics exported, worth US$ 111 million (Rs.710 crore) with volumes at 134 million sq. metres. The average unit price realisation was at US$ 0.83/kg, about a cent more than a year ago. ! ' ' !$ ! X yarns and blended spun yarnsin May, comprising 108 million sq. metres and 68 million sq. metres, respectively.

Among 100% man-made fabric export, polyester fabrics shipment was at 4 million sq. metres worth US$ 3 million.

Denim Exports on the Rise Plain fabrics accounted for 66% of all kinds of woven fabrics exported in May 2017, but were down 4% on year on year comparison. Shipment totaled 287 million sq meters values US$ 176 million. Bangladesh, United Arab Emirates and USA were the top markets for plain fabrics.

Denim was the second largest woven fabric exported in May (US$ 27 million), posting an increase of 9% year on year. They were mainly imported by Bangladesh, Lesotho, Egypt, Colombia, South Korea and Turkey. Denim exports to these markets were worth more than US$ 20 million.

Shirting/suiting and sarees were the other top fabrics exported from India in May this year.

Heavy Weight Fabric More in Demand About 65% of all woven fabrics exported were of light weight (<136 GSM) worth US$ 174 million and medium

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July 2017

FABRIC REPORT weight (>136 < 271 GSM) valued at US$ 57 million (21%).

They were mainly exported to Bangladesh, United Arab Emirates and Sri Lanka. Heavy weight fabrics valued at US$ 37 million were exported largely to Bangladesh, USA and

July 2017

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Lesotho. While light and medium weight fabrics export declined year on year, heavy weight exports increased 10 % while the same to Lesotho were exponentially high.

23

COTTON REPORT India New Season Arrivals as on 01/08/2017:

& ' ! ( X & ( been washed away and will not be worth sowing again, as the top soil has been fully washed away. Cotton being a long duration crop and seeds being costly, most farmers will not again take a further risk with cotton re-sowing.

Z ( ` &

cotton, groundnut, sesame and guar.

RAJASTHAN/M.P.: Some cotton areas of Rajasthan and > &$ & ( $ & ($ ; ) MAHARASHTRA: While Khandesh and Marathwada zones have received adequate rainfall, parts of Vidarbha still ]

& X Â&#x160;

and July.

Cotton Sowing Report as on 28/07/2017

KARNATAKA: The medium and long staple cotton growing area of Raichur and Bellary have received medium rainfall which may barely sustain the cotton crop. But extra long staple (DCH-32) areas of Hubli to Chitradurga and Bailhongal have received very scanty rainfall and there is fear of drought-like situation. Karnataka badly requires a good round of rainfall.

PUNJAB: Heavy rainfalls and water-logging in June end and July beginning have caused extensive damage to the cotton crop in 8,125 acres of 20 villages in Mansa (Punjab) compelling the state agriculture department to issue an ( $ & = &

cotton and cultivate basmati rice.There has been 100% damage in 6,000 acres while 50-75% damage has been reported in another 2,125 acres of the land under cotton cultivation. Cotton has been sown in over 3.82 lakh hectares in Punjab, and in Mansa alone, the area under cotton cultivation is 86,000 hectares.

GUJARAT: The State Agri ministry report showed that on 17th July cotton sowing in Gujarat had increased by 39% to 24,46,800 Hectors ( 17,60,700 hectors same time last year). Last 3 year average was 27,25,800 hectors. IMD reports showed Jun 1-Jul 17 rainfall as 294.6 mm, 19% above normal. & ' = Â&#x160; $ ; @ jarat has hurt sowing and has resulted in damage to some of the cotton crop where sowing had been completed. Around 25% of land sown with cotton is feared to ! ) = & * Â&#x2018; Â&#x2C6;= Morbi, Amreli and parts of Sabarkantha have witnessed & ($ ; ) Â&#x17E; & @ Â&#x2C6; ' & ' ) & ' ! $

24

Pest Attacks: While both sowing and monsoon have been good in North Indian states of Punjab and Haryana, & '& ;$ =

Fazilka, Bathinda, Muktsar Mansa and Sirsa. Both these & ( ( $ '& ;$ = 2015-16 resulting in drop in cotton area in 2016-17.The farmers had shifted back to cotton this year following handsome prices and directives from state Governments on how to control the disease. = ! ' & ! X > harashtra like Khandesh and Akot. It was observed in GuÂ&#x2C6; $ & X $ ] $ ) Both these attacks are at the nascent stage but can be ( $ X $) Domestic Market Summary: Gujarat S6 price chart 16th to 31st July2017 Goods and Services Tax (GST) came into force on 1st July 2017. Since then, the textile industry has not been able to come to terms with the fast-changing situation.

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July 2017

COTTON REPORT

1) Heavy rains in many centres of India (parts of Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan) restricted the movement of goods like cotton, yarn and fabric. Â&#x201E; & ( $ = ] $ cotton stocked in ware houses. As a result, prices of good quality varieties ruled stronger.

3) Strike and non-compliance to GST in major weaving centres like Surat, Ahmedabad, Bhiwandi, Varanasi, Kolkatta, etc has resulted in fall in demand of yarn. The situation was bad since April but it has worsened post GST as the yarn prices have fallen by Rs 15 to 25/kg in many counts.

4) Mills with lower cash reserves/lower cotton stocks/ high yarn unsold stocks/ high interest burden have started facing cash losses.

All of the above may compel some of the mills to cut down on production if the current situation does not improve. Prospects for the new season 2017-18 seem good as of now, but the last quarter of season 2016-17 is going to be very challenging for the mills as the physical cotton stocks in India are estimated to be as low as 2 million bales.

Reports ICAC: Cotton Prices Uncertain in 2017/18 The Secretariat forecasts that the A Index in 2017/18 will range between 54 cts/lb and 87 cts/lb with a midpoint of 69 cts/lb. The midpoint would be 13 cts/lb lower than in 2016/17. This follows the large increase of 12 cts/lb from 2015/16 to 2016/17, which suggests that such a drop is not unreasonable. However, the season average A Index in 2016/17 ended up being much higher than the Secretariat initially forecast, and market fundamentals do not explain why this occurred. Given what happened in {~Â&#x2020;Â&#x192;~ ` $ '& & &

for 2017/18 will hold up well over the season.

After falling by 6% in 2016/17, Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production is projected to rebound by 7% to 5.2 million tons. Production in the United States is expected to rise by 10% to 4.1 million & &

` $ ! X ' &

farmers to expand cotton area by 18% to 4.5 million hectares. After two seasons of contraction, better expected returns for cotton encouraged farmers to expand cotton area in Pakistan by 9% to 2.7 million hectares. Assuming the average yield rises by 8% to 717 kg/ha, Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production is projected to increase by 17% to 2 million tons, which is similar to its 15 year average. Cotton production in Brazil is forecast to increase by 5% to 1.6 million tons as high returns in 2016/17, resulting partially from a 17% increase in the average yield, are likely to encourage farmers to expand cotton area.

World cotton consumption in 2017/18 is forecast to rise by 2% to 25 million tons. A modest 1% increase is projected for China, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest cotton consumer, with its mill use reaching 8.1 million tons in 2017/18. After declining by 3% in 2016/17, consumption in India is forecast to increase by 2% to 5.3 million tons in 2017/18. Pakistanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mill use is expected to rise by 4% to 2.2 million tons, which follows a 13% decrease in mill use in 2015/16 and stagnation in 2016/17. Consumption in Bangladesh is projected to rise by 5% to 1.5 million tons due to strong demand domestically and internationally, and Turkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mill use is expected to remain stable at 1.5 million tons.

World cotton trade is projected to decline by 1% to 7.8 million tons. While the United Sates is expected to remain the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest exporter, its exports are nevertheless forecast to decrease by 8% to 2.9 million tons. Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exports are forecast to rise by 2% to 930,000 tons, and Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s exports are projected to increase by 8% to 760,000 tons. Bangladesh, Vietnam and China are expected to remain the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s three largest importers. Bangladeshâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s imports are projected to increase by 7% to 1.5 million tons, Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s by 5% to 1.3 million tons, and China by 4% to 1.1 million tons.

World ending stocks are projected to decrease by 1% to 18.8 million tons in 2017/18, with increases outside of & !$ & < = ) & < = are expected to decline by 16% to 8.9 million tons. Ending stocks outside of China are forecast to grow by 19% to 9.8 million tons.

In 2017/18, world cotton production is projected to increase by 8% to 24.9 million tons due entirely to an 8% expansion in world cotton area to 31.7 million hectares, which is below the 20-year average of 32.7 million hectares. The world average yield is forecast at 785 kg/ha. India is expected to remain the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest producer in 2017/18 with output increasing by 6% to 6.1 million tons.

July 2017

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25

COTTON REPORT * The price projection for 2017/18 is based on the ending stocks to mill use ratio in the world-less-China in 2015/16 Â Â&#x201E; {~Â&#x2020;Â&#x192;~ Â Â&#x2C6; Â&#x201E; {~ Â&#x192;~Â&#x20AC; Â Â&#x2C6; Â&#x201E;Â&#x152; on the ratio of Chinese net imports to world imports in {~Â&#x2020;Â&#x192;~ Â Â&#x2C6; Â&#x201E; {~ Â&#x192;~Â&#x20AC; Â Â&#x2C6; Â&#x201E;Â&#x152; & price projection of 2016/17. The price projection is the + & Â }| X ( }Â&#x203A; Â&#x192; ! Â&#x20AC; cts/lb.

Expert Views: Dr. O.A. Cleveland, Mississippi State University: Fundamental and Technical First fundamentals are important. In fact, it is the fundamentals factors that determine the price season to season and in between. Fundamentals determine price, period. However, during times of market lapses such as â&#x20AC;&#x153;dead fundamental news,â&#x20AC;? technicals take over and rule the day.

Thus, technical indicators become keys on the road map that traders use for that trip. Sometimes a detour may not make logical sense and at other times it may seem prices might be going the wrong way, but technicals spot these diversions and forks in the road.

Thus, and my fundamental friends cringe with I say this, technicals are the Leading Indicators of Fundamentals. In my personal tradingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;which I no longer doâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;most every time I went against the technicals, I was proven wrong.

The market will look for the very low 70â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in August, but will likely move lower into harvest as U.S. crop does hold the 18.6-19.3 million bales range. A smaller crop would support prices at a higher level .

Excerpts from Reinhart report dt 20.7.17: Physical demand is subdued (but not dead) at current levels and it appears as â&#x20AC;&#x201C; short-term â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a level below 66.00 is necessary to bring stronger demand back. At the same time, price targets from various origins do not seem to be near current NYF levels. The result is the relatively quiet

and consolidative market action which we witnessed during the past 4 weeks. Of course such picture cannot prevail for too long and either side will have to adjust their target levels at some point.

Excerpts of Plexus Report: Speculators have forced the market lower by selling around 9 million bales net over the last two months and they canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t keep up this kind of selling pressure. While most of this spec selling was long liquidation, there have also been new shorts established, which could provide the fuel for short covering rallies.

The trade has been a net buyer over the last two months and given the depleted inventories and the uncertainty regarding crops, we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t see merchants or growers as aggressive sellers at this point. The market is going to trade in a range between 66-72 cents in the foreseeable future.

Shri I.J.Dhuria (Director (Materials),Vardhman Spinning Mills Ltd.): The crop situation in North India is nothing less than extraordinary. Similar reports are received form Maharash ) & @ Â&#x2C6; ; is restricted to a very limited cotton sowing area.Current physical stocks are a concern for spinning mills but the new season looks to be very promising.

Shri Sanjay Jain (MD, TT Ltd): * ( ( $ `

tion. Cotton prices refuse to go down while demand in yarn has fallen drastically. Post GST, synthetic yarn will be cheaper by 8-10%, imported fabric will be cheaper by 12.5% and garment imports from Bangladesh are ex '& & ' ( $ & Textile industry.

Magic Choose Vietnam As Their â&#x20AC;&#x153;Focus Countryâ&#x20AC;?

This August, over 40 of Vietnamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best manufacturers and resources will be at the forefront of the SOURCING at MAGIC show. Show attendees will have the opportunity X! & Â&#x201A; ese factories, and chat with representatives. MAGIC chose Vietnam as their â&#x20AC;&#x153;focus countryâ&#x20AC;? because of the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rapid growth in export manufacturing.

WHY THE FOCUS ON VIETNAM â&#x20AC;˘ Vietnam may be the fastest-growing of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economies, with a potential annual GDP growth rate of about 5.2%. This is partially due to the boom in jobs linked to growth in export manufacturing of textiles and garment products to over 180 countries and territories.

26

â&#x20AC;˘ Since Vietnam launched itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s economic renewal campaign to lift the country out of poverty in 1986 and normalised trade relations in the U.S. in 2000, Vietnam has been able to export to a wider range of markets, rapidly expand exports in the manufacturing sector, has become an investment destination because of its large and capable workforce (population of 91 million +), and labor and operating costs remain low compared to China. â&#x20AC;˘ Vietnam is the sourcing destination.

In addition, SOURCING at MAGIC will host a Vietnam-focused seminar giving more background and exposure to the countries capabilities and advancements.

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July 2017

SURAT REPORT Polyester Yarn Prices Further Increased Upto 5-10/Kg: Weavers Worried Post GST, in two fortnights, the prices of polyester synthetic yarn have reached at a new height. The POY prices rose by 7% and yarn manufacturers have increased various deniers prices from Rs 5 to Rs 10 per kilogram & X Z

) & ' loom weavers of the city are worried about the hike in yarn prices. Sources said, weavers are already disturbed by 5 per cent GST on job work, 18 per cent GST on yarn and now on the other hand yarn spinners are continously increasing yarn prices.

Industry sources said, there is no rational behind increasing the yarn prices, when the companies are well aware of the fact that there is no such movement in the market. The small weavers, who are operating 12-24 powerloom machines are hugely affected by the tax on job work. Now, the increased yarn prices are further cause of worry for thousands of smalltime weavers. During last month, before GST, yarn manufacturers has increased the prices of crimp, Roto and FDY deniers based yarn upto Rs. 3/kg. Â&#x17E; ' Z

X & $ & ( further increased yarn prices upto Â&#x2018; )~{Â&#x192;= ) & ' ( $ & industry and the small weavers will not be able to survive. I

Implement Gst Tariff Act To Avoid Litigation : Experts Demand In GST Awareness Programme The central goverment should bring @* Z ( ' tion in new tax regime. There are lots of questions and confusions on tax rate, input tax credit, reverse charge mechanism, deemed credit and many more in the newly implemented GST law. Lack of proper guidelines under

July 2017

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GST system, may result in litigation.

In aâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;GST Awareness Programmeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;, organised by Surat branch of Western India Regional Council of Institute of Charterd Accounts of India and Rotary Club, experts has demanded & @* ') & Â&#x2018;

and Regulation under GST regime will ease the trade and simplify the tax structure. Chartered accountants Mukund Chauhan, Hardik Shah and Avinash Poddar has address the audience about GST on Textile, DiamondJewellery and Real Estate sector. They ! & Z + X

under GST and answered all the questions askedby the people. Surat CA branch Chairman Abhishek Mittal said that the branch will organise GST account training programme and GST software demonstartion in next week.

Refund Tax Credit And Remove 5% GST On Jobwork: Surat Weavers Urged To PM The small weavers of the city are demanding removal of GST on fabrics jobwork. More than 35 textile powerloom weaving associations of the city has sent thousands of letters to Prime Minister Narenda Modi and have urged for relief in new tax law.

They have put forth demand for refund of accumulated tax credit and removing GST of 5 per cent on weaving jobwork.

The yarn attracts 18% GST and any jobwork done on yarn also attracts 5% GST. There will be huge loss in termsof input tax credit, which has no provision for refund under the GST law. The weavers doing jobwork ' ! X & ) & ' ( are not giving jobwork to small scale weavers after the announcement of GST rate. The Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) have submitted a representation to the Finance Minister and demands tax relief on synthetic yarn.

The industry association said, govt. should consider 12% GST on synthetic yarn instead of 18%. The 18% GST rate on synthetic yarn will badly & ' & ) & also demended imposition of import duty on Chinese fabrics to protect the small and medium enterprises in Surat. They have also appealed the govt. to provide credit of tax paid on imported machinery under IGST.

Textile Traders Eyes On Festival Season The textile traders of Surat are now focusing on Durgapuja, Diwali and marriage season sale. As the demand X & ! = $ & wholesale businessmans are now increasing their inventories. Speciallly, printed and value added fabrics are in high demand ahead of festival season.

Earlier in July, more than 70,000 trad & ( X = against the imposition of 5% GST on textiles. Thousands of textile merchants had shut their shops for two weeks to protest the new tax structure. The entire industries incurred business losses to the tune of over 5000 crore during the two weeks long strike. The traders in Surat have & ~} $ = lowing the Centreâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assurance to look into their demand. In GST council X $ '& for GST rollback on textile, traders of Surat unanimously decided to restart their businesses and also keep & X & X @* rules.

After holding protests for long against the imposition of the GST, a large number of textile traders have started GST registration process. Over 80 per cent textile traders have shifted @* ) &

& X & !rics for coming festival and marriage season has started and traders are receiving good orders from across the country.

27

FIBRE FOCUS

An Overview On Fibre Orientation Measurement And Effect Of Carding And Yarn Quality Abstract The quality of spun yarn depends upon various factors = X!

& ( ! mospheric condition etc. Among many, one important & & X! $ ) !

X!

' $

' ! ! X! ' $ ) X! ( ( ; & X! $ ) &

( ! & & & X! orientation in sliver, roving and yarn. Carding and drawing processes are designed to increase the parallelism of X! ) &

X! ( ÂŁ & ) process the hooks are formed. This phenomenon dete & $ ] $) * X! X

& = X! ( & $ ] $ ) &

&

& ] X!

( ! X! tion and quality.

Keywords

Fibre orientation, Orientation index, Cutting ratio, Combing ratio, etc.

1. Introduction Since last six decades, number of direct [1] and indirect ÂŚ +Â&#x203A;§ & & ( ! ( ! & X! = X! & X! & ` ( X!

( X! ) & X! ( ' & & Â&#x2C6; microscope. In indirect method like Lindsley [2] and modiX ¨ $ ÂŚÂ&#x2021;§ & X!

in sliver and roving are measured in terms of weight ra ) & ! & ( X! =

to measure orientation parameters in direct method and from it the sliver or roving or yarn characteristics are extrapolated, which is not realistic. This is because of the

! X! & (

X! ) In carding is the most important process. Card process pa ; & X!

$ sliver, roving and yarn. Carding is the process stage where hooks are formed. The type of hooks and their amount & X!

( (ing and yarn. Leading hooks are lesser and smaller than & = Œ}§) X X! X

28

X(

$  Â&#x201E; & =  Â&#x201E; & =  Â&#x201E; ! & & =  (Â&#x201E; X! & = ! $ &  (Â&#x201E; = X! ÂŚ~ Â&#x2020;§) In card sliver 50% are leading hooks, 15% trailing hooks, ~}| ! & & = & {| X! & = ÂŚ §) Â&#x201C; X! $ & = X! ! = ) Â&#x201A;

& & ( (

X! ] $ ( (ing and yarn and the quality of carding operation.

2. Measurement Of Fibre Orientation

2.1 Direct Method & X & X! sliver, roving and yarn was direct method. This method ' ! &

X! & ]

( $ $ & = ) X! & ] ÂŚ~ }§ {)~ + {)Â&#x2021;| X! $ ' & $ =

) & X! ' & X! $ ! ' ! ) X! technique the sliver or roving or yarn is immersed in a solution which is having the same refractive index as of par X! ) & & X! $ ( '&

& = X! ! $ horizontal plane and vertical plane through microscope. & X! & ] !

& X! = X! X! arrangement, degree of parallelisation, type of hooks, and hook extent in sliver, roving and yarn. The schematic ( ' X!

& X! study is shown in Fig. 1.

)LJ 6FKHPDWLF YLHZ RI KRRNHG WUDFHU Č´EUH VHHQ XQGHU PLFURVFRSH

Z & = X! & =

& & X! ) Â&#x2013; &

!

X! & )

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July 2017

FIBRE FOCUS ' ' $

Š X! (

 Â&#x201E; X! ( &  Â&#x201E;) ¨ ! & ( X! ! !$ '& & ( & & ! ' X! ÂŚÂ&#x2020;§) & ÂŞÂ&#x201A; X! & ] & X! $ $ ; $ & & ] !

& X! ' ! ' ! = ! ) Â&#x17E; ' X! straightness index (FSI) which gives information about X! & !

X! ) * & Â&#x2C6; & X! & & & X! section of length observed directly with the microscope [6]. Fibres used to for FSI study is shown in Fig. 2. The FSI can be calculated by below equation.

To calculate the migration parameters following formula are given by Hearle et al [9].

Where n observations of Y were made over a length Zn. Mean migration intensity

FSI= n x P / (L1 + L2 + L3 +...+ Ln) \& & ! X! Â&#x152; ¨~ ¨ & X! & & X! & observed.

Root mean square deviation

Where Ri & ri are the ith value of yarn radius and helix

Â&#x152; ÂŤi, the corresponding values of length along the $ Â&#x152; 2.2 Indirect Method

)LJ 6HFWLRQ RI VOLYHU VHHQ XQGHU PLFURVFRSH

$ & X! & $ X! &nique is also used. Mathematical formulae are used to calculate the migration parameters. These formulae specify ( $ X! ! & & & $ X!

 > Â&#x201E;Â&#x152; & &

$ Â >> Â&#x201E;Â&#x152; &

the deviations from the mean position or the amplitude of the migration, termed as root mean square deviation  Â&#x2018;>*Â&#x201C;Â&#x201E;) & & ( ' X!

X! $ $ & ' ) Â&#x2021;)

) Â&#x2021; Š * & ( ' X!

Â&#x2C6; croscope

July 2017

www.textilevaluechain.com

& X! & = ¨ $ Œ § X ¨ $ ' `

X! ( and roving. Three indices- cutting ratio, combing ratio and '

& X! ( ( ) ' ' ` derived by Leon`teva [3] known as proportion of curved X! ­ <

( X! ' & & ` ( X! ­Â&#x161; < X!

straightening in sliver or roving [6]. & ( ` & X! orientation measurement are given in Table 1.

Fibre orientation in sliver and roving are also measured !$ X! $ ÂŚÂ&#x203A;§) & & from majority hook beards over span length from minor-

29

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KĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ć&#x2030;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;ĹľÄ&#x17E;Ć&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ć&#x152;Ć? ƾƍŜĹ? Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;Ĺ˝ ŽžÄ?Ĺ?ĹśĹ? Ć&#x152;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;Ĺ˝ 3URSRUWLRQ RI FXUYHG ÂżEUH HQGV

KĆ&#x152;Ĺ?Ä&#x17E;ĹśĆ&#x161;Ä&#x201A;Ć&#x;ŽŜ Ĺ?ĹśÄ&#x161;Ä&#x17E;Ç&#x2020;

ČĄ

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ity hook beards was more clearly shown for the 50% and 66.7% span lengths than for the 2.5% span length [10]. Â&#x201A; &

& X! tion in sliver, roving and yarn. Selection of method depends on the purpose of study. &' * + 4 6 $ + # $ +

tion Card is the heart of spinning. Carding is responsible for X! &

) Â&#x2C6; $ X! & & X

$ ) Â&#x201C; X! & = X! ! = ) & = dominant [5]. In card sliver 50% are trailing hooks, 15% leading hooks, 15% both ended hooks and less than 20% X! & = ÂŚ §) Â&#x201A;

= ( ' &

) ; & Xbre orientation and quality of sliver, roving and yarn.

3.1

+ " ; <

& ( & = ; & X! tion in sliver. Coarse sliver hank, increases relative coefX X!

Â&#x2C6; & &

( X! ) in operational layer due to increase in sliver hank results X! ) & $ & X! & &

( X! ÂŚÂ&#x2020; ~~§) Z low carding rate, with coarse sliver hank caused smaller & = !

X hooks. Overall projected mean length decreases with the coarse sliver hank. Card web neps and yarn imperfections increase with the increase in carding rate. At lower card ( ' & & ' ! ) However, at higher carding rate the coarse sliver appears to have fewer neps. The yarn imperfections increase as the sliver hank changed to coarser. Increase in carding draft for same sliver hank with heavy feed lap weight, increases imperfections in same yarn count. Increase

( & X! '

30

frame sliver uniformity. Sliver hank and carding rate had & $ $) \ & ing rate, the strength and elongation decrease marginally ÂŚÂ&#x2020; ~~+~Â&#x203A;§) & X! X! & = crease as card sliver weight increases. &'=

+ > "

Â&#x2013; &

& Xbre hooks in the sliver, because of the reduced periph $ Œ~}§) '& $

( ! ( ' & X!

) ( X! & subsequent processes is better with good carding, proba! $ ! X! ) Â&#x2C6; &  >¨Â&#x201E; '& & & X! ' & & under bad carding condition at card, draw frame and riv ) ! X!

of parallelisation with good carding, the rate of improvement of parallelisation in the subsequent process was high [16]. Bad carding condition causes reduction in majority hooks and increase in minority hooks at the card stage. Majority hooks are more under good carding at & &

X second drawing stages. This indicates that the rate of unhooking during drafting at drawing remains same, irrespective of the carding condition [16]. Nep removal at X $ ( ' & &

production due to intensive carding action. High production rate increases neps in drawing because of inferior carding quality. Better carding quality with lesser production increases yarn tenacity [17]. Thick places and neps and U% in ring yarn increases with the increase in card production [18]. Decrease in card production rate improves the yarn properties. &'&

+ @ #

The force required to individualise a tuft in between $ +; ÂŁ ) increases with increase in operational layer on the cylin ÂŁ ) ; & ] $ carded sliver with regard to neps and regularity. Increase in carding force per unit load decrease both the neps content and the U % of the sliver [19-21]. &'X

+ @ 4 + Z

istics

; &

$

yarn quality. Intensive opening by changing carding process improves yarn regularity and tenacity up to certain ) ( & X! uncontrolled drafting and make yarn uneven and weak.

Increase in the openness at higher level increases yarn & ! & X! Œ §) ¨ Xbre individualisation causes more slubs, thick places and neps in yarns.

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July 2017

FIBRE FOCUS & & X! (er, roving and yarn. Quality of carding depends on feed material weight, carding force, production rate and processing parameters. Process of carding generates hooks.

Majority of hooks are trailing hooks followed by leading and both ended hooks.

4. Conclusion & X! ( ( $ ' & & ] )

& X! ' & & ] ) > X in various measuring techniques were done. Fibre orientation parameters correlate with sliver, roving and yarn & Â&#x152; &

eters in spinning preparatory.

& X! ( (ing and yarn. Performance of subsequent process and $ & !$ & ] $) References y Morton W E & Summers R J, J Text Inst, 40, 106, (1949). y Lindsley C H, Text Res J, 21 39-46, (1951). y Leontâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;eva I S, Tech Text Ind USSR, 2, 57-63, (1964). y Iyer I K P, Parathasarthy M S & Sundram V, Resume of Papers, Twenty First Joint Technological Conference of ATIRA, BTRA, and SITRA, 12-15 (1980). y Morton W E & Yen K C, J Text Inst, 43, T463-T472, (1952). y Akshay Kumar, S. M. Ishtiaque & K R Salhotra, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 33, 451- 467, (2008). y Klein W, A short staple spinning series, A Practical

y y y y y y y y y y y y y y y

Guide to Opening and Carding (The Textile Institute), 1987.

Sengupta A K & Chatopadhyay R, Text Res J, 52, 178181 (1982).

Hearle J W S & Gupta B S, Text Res J, 35, 788 (1965).

Audivert R, Text Res J, 41, 365-366 (1971).

Ishtiaque S M & Vijay A, Indian J Fibre Text Res, 19, 239246 (1994).

Simpson J & Fiori L A, Text Res J, 44, 327-331 (1974).

Basu A, Asian Text J, (4), 74-78, (2002).

Simpson J, Text Res J, 42, 590-591, (1972).

Wolfgang T, Melliand Textilber, 65, E211- E215, (1984).

Nerurkar S K, Indian J Text Res, 4, 63-70, (1979).

Rakshit A K & Balasubramanian N., Indian J Text Res, 101, 58-162, (1985).

Rakshit A K & Balasubramanian N, Indian J Text Res, 8, 95-100, (1983).

Sengupta A K, Vijayaraghavan N & Singh A, Indian J Text Res, 8, 59, (1983).

Sengupta A K, Vijayaraghavan N & Singh A, Indian J Text Res, 8, 64, (1983).

Sengupta A K, Vijayaraghavan N & Singh A, Indian J Text Res, 8, 68,(1983).

Ishtiaque S M, Chaudhuri S & Das A, Indian J Text Res, 28, 405-410, (2003).

N. B. Swami (Research Scholar ) P. B. Malakane (Assistant Professor ) Department of Textiles, D.K.T.E`s Textile & Engineering Institute, Ichalkaranji

Textile Education Should Sync With Practical Training And Research Future textile education should involve practical training and research in addition to classroom teaching.

Mr. Prakash Awade, former textile minister of the State of Maharashtra, India emphasized the importance of comprehensive education in engineering that should have research experience and internships as part of the regular curriculum, while speaking recently at a function in Ichalkaranji as part of training workshop on Technical Textiles to faculty and students at the DKTE Textile and Engineering Institute.

Tutorials on nonwovens and technical textiles were delivered by this scribe at the DKTE institute. At this event, Professor P. V. Kadole, director of the DKTE institute, emphasized the importance of linkages with industry and in-

ternational institutes.

DKTE institute has about 1200 students in textile curricu

X ) Ichalkaranji, situated in a fertile agricultural belt in Maharashtra is a prominent power loom sector with over 1,20,000 power looms in operation in the region. In addition, the region has the largest concentration of shuttle less looms with about 14,000 high speed shuttle less looms. Most recently, support from the Government of India has resulted in the establishment of a Center of Excellence in Nonwovens, which is serving as an incubation center for emerging nonwoven sector in India.

Seshadri Ramkumar Texas Tech University, USA

July 2017

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31

GARMENT FOCUS

Sustainable Environment With Lean Production In Garment Industry Abstract: This paper objective is to present Lean Production (LP) as a work organisational model that fosters a sustainable work environment in garment industry. This is achievable through some lean tools and initiatives, described in the paper, that reduce the energy, water consumption, environmental waste, raw materials consumption and improve leanness and agility. Lean Production has been extensively implemented in all kind of industries, responding to customers demand with on time delivery of high quality products at reduced costs, through continuous waste elimination (e.g. over production, raw materials, energy and water more than necessary). These problems were addressed in this study by the implementation =

; ' work standardisation, just in time production etc. Lean ! X & ( & ; '

( '& & ( a remarkable contribution in achieving companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s goals and giving quality products at the right time and at the right place.

Introduction In the current era of globalisation, industries are adopting new technologies to produce goods to compete and survive in the market. The most daunting issue faced by manufacturers today is how to deliver their products or materials quickly at low cost and with good quality. Onepromising method for addressing this issue is the application of lean management principles and techniques.

Lean management simply known as lean is production practice, which regards the use of resources for any work other than the creation of value for the end customer, is waste and thus a target for elimination. Though there had been numerous claims on the real origin of Lean Manufacturing principles, it was generally accepted that the concept, with this background business needs to compete ' & ` $ ] = $ = niches. There is no doubt that the manufacturing industry are confronted with challenges and looking for improvements in their key activities or processes to cope with the = ;

) Applying lean management philosophy is one of the most important concepts that help businesses to complete. In &

&

( $ X & level of lean practices, types of lean tools employed, and

( ( !$ & (

manu facturing industries are discussed. \*"* \ < +]^* _`6* > {*_<+>+|+ Z & $ & $ X & examine the degree to which the concepts of lean man-

32

agement are put into practice within various manufacturing Industry. Â Â&#x201E; & ( ( ' X &

lean management practices in manufacturing industries. (ii) It is a measure to identify the constrains that retains lean manufacturing in the infant stage in manufactur X & $ & Â ' Â&#x201E; & evolves in an processing unit andgives out supporting measures to remove the same. The constraint that predict the implementation and sustainability of lean manufacturing tools and techniques are also discussed.

LITERATURE REVIEW A detailed review of research in current trend of lean management in garment industry has been discussed.

Lean manufacturing is a multi-dimensional management practice including just in time quality systems, work teams, cellular manufacturing, supplier management etc. &

X ¨ >

& Toyota Production System usually consists of the following, Wilson (2009). â&#x20AC;˘ It is a comprehensive set of techniques which when combined allows you to reduce and eliminate the ' ) & ' = & $ ; ible and responsive by reducing waste. â&#x20AC;˘ Lean is the systematic approach to identifying and eliminating waste through continuous improvement !$ ; ' &

( &

$

customer in pursuit of perfection.

LEAN PRINCIPLE Principle 1: Accurately specify value from customer perspective for both product and services.

Principle 2: Identify the value stream for products and services and remove non-value adding waste along the value stream.

Â&#x2021; > = &

( ; ' ' &

interruption across the value stream.

Principle 4: Authorise production of products and services based on the pull by the customer.

Principle 5: Strive for perfection by constantly removing layers of waste.

III. KIND OF WASTE A. Overproduction Producing items more than required at given point of time i.e. producing items without actual orders creating & ( '& & age area as well as transportation etc.

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July 2017

GARMENT FOCUS B. Waiting Workers waiting for raw material, the machine or information etc. is known as waiting and is the waste of productive time. The waiting can occur in various ways for ex Â&#x152;

& ' = Â&#x192; &

machine breakdowns, lack of work knowledge, stock outs etc.

formal systems forevaluating CI activities. Successful CI implementation involves not only the n-training and development of employees in the use of tools and processes, but also the establishment of a learning environment conducive to future continuous learning The short description of PDCA cycle is given below 1) Plan: Identify an opportunity and plan for change.

C. Unnecessary Transport

2) Do: Implement the change on a small scale

Carrying of work in process (WIP) a long distance, insufX ( other place is known as the unnecessary transport.

3) Check: Use data to analyze the results of the change '& & & )

D. Over processing Working on a product more than the actual requirements is termed as over processing. The over processing may be due to improper tools or improper procedures etc. The over processing is the waste of time and machines which $ ( & X

) E. Excess Raw Material & ' \ X & causing longer lead times, obsolescence, damaged goods transportation and storage costs, and delay. Also, the extra inventory hides prob-lems such as production imbalances late deliveries from suppliers, defects, equipment downtime, and long setup times.

F. Unnecessary Movement Any wasted motion that the workers have to perform during their work is termed as unnecessary movement. For example, the movement during searching for tools, shifting WIP etc.

G. Defects Defects in the processed parts are termed as waste. Repairing defective parts or producing defective parts or replacing the parts due to poor quality etc.is the waste of )

H. Unused Employee Creativity Loosing of getting better ideas, improvement, skills and learning opportunities by avoiding the presence of employee is termed as unused employee creativity.

IV. LEAN MANUFACTURING TOOLS

A. Continuous improvement

( Â Â&#x201E; ! X & planned, organized and systematic process of ongoing, incremental and company-wide change of existing practices aimed at improving company performance. Activities and behaviors that facilitate and enable the development of CI include problem solving, plan-do-check-act (PDCA) and other CI tools, policy deployment, cross-functional teams, a formal CI planning and management group, and

July 2017

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4) Act: If the change was successful, implement it on a wide scale and continuously assess the results. If the change did not work, begin the cycle again.

Thus continuous improvement is an ongoing and nev Â&#x152; $ & & ( gained from the application of one process over the existing. So while selecting the continuous improvement plan one should concentrate on the area which needs more attention and which adds more value to our products.

B. Just-In-Time Just in time is an integrated set of activities designed to achieve high volume production using the minimal in( ' ' = X & goods. Just in time is also based on the logic that nothing will be produced until it is needed.

Just-in-time manufacturing is a Japanese management philosophy applied in manufacturing. It involves having the right items with the right quality and quantity in the right place at the right time. The ability to manage inventory (which often accounts for as much as 80 percent of product cost) to coincide with market demand or chang

X ! $ !

X and improve a manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competitive position by reducing inventories and waste. In general, Just in Time (JIT) helps to optimize company resources like capital, equipment, and labor. The goal of JIT is the total elimination of waste in the manufacturing process.

C. Total Productive Maintenance Machine breakdown is one of the major problems to production division. The reliability of the equipment on the & ; ( $ ! $ & & ' & & ;

( $ $ ! nil. The tool that takes care of these sudden breakdowns and awakes maintenance as well as production workers to minimise these unplanned breakdowns is called total productive maintenance. Total Productive Maintenance (TPM) is a maintenance program, which involves a newly X

]

) The goal of the TPM program is to increase production, increase employee morale and job satisfaction.

TPM is set of tools, which when implemented in an organ-

33

GARMENT FOCUS isation as a whole gives the best utilisation of machines with least disruption of production.

Lean production

ter and raw materials (natural resources) must be careful used. So, it is necessary to optimize the processes and prevent wastes of resources in a reasonable â&#x20AC;&#x153;doing more with lessâ&#x20AC;?. The relationship between Lean production and sustainable development is evident, sharing the same key idea of â&#x20AC;&#x153;creating or doing more with lessâ&#x20AC;?, and ! X & &

since, almost, two decades ago. Reviews had been made ! & &

+ gram showing the evidence between the seven discussed ' & Â Â&#x201E; & ( + formance. Lean Production carries a dramatic reduction to all kinds of wastes being a whole-system thinking and it is totally akin with a socially responsible strategy.

4. Challenges In Lean Implementation And Sustainability

Lean Production (LP) is a model of organisation focused on the customer and delivery of on time quality products, materials and information without any wastes, i.e., activities that add no value to the products from the point of view of customer. This designation, Lean Production means â&#x20AC;&#x153;doing more with lessâ&#x20AC;? where less implies less space occupied, less transports, less inventories,

&

resources. LP had its roots in Toyota company that designed, after the Second Great War, a production system, Toyota Production System (TPS, which employed some pillars, like JIT production and automation concepts and some tools to reduce lead times and the cost of products.

A book named - â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Machine That Changed the Worldâ&#x20AC;?written by James P. Womack, Daniel T. Jones and Daniel Roos gave the popularity to the Toyota Production System (TPS).

Meanwhile, the LP has evolved into a philosophy of thinking, Lean Thinking whose basic principles are 1. Value 2. Value Stream Â&#x2021;)

; ' 4. Pull System

The challenges faced in the process of implementing and sustain lean is a tedious job as the concept relates to time, cost, interest, and involvement, the concepts that together support the new change for development in an X ) & $ & ' X

lean manufacturing and other innovative concepts than & X ) &

(ing a change to lean. The following important factor of resistance to change in manufacturing sectors is â&#x20AC;˘ Fear to change the legacy system with the new successful trends and methodologies â&#x20AC;˘ Not utilizing the opportunities and advantages of the new policies â&#x20AC;˘ Market destabilisation will lead to force the change, which will be in a non-standard format.

Achieving sustainable work environment with Lean production From the previous section, it was obvious that companies could save large amount in reducing wastes, particularly of SME companies. With some exceptions, garment companies are included in this category and presented many problems such as accumulated stocks everywhere due to the wrong product produced, to the anticipated production or to the large lots (overproduction), demotivation of operators and high absenteeism, high level of accidents, operatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specialisation, high energy and water consumption, high raw materials consumption and disposal, high pollution of rivers, soil and air, among others.

Lean Production and sustainable development

According to the research, the apparel (garment) industry uses high volumes of water in raw material production however authors are more concerned in the manufacturing phase. This section mainly divulgate proposals to reduce the water and energy consumption, environmental wastes and raw materials in manufacturing phase. Additionally, proposals to improve leanness and agility are summarized.

To satisfy the clients, companies consume energy, wa-

Proposals for the reduction of energy and water consumption

5. Pursuit perfection These principles imply the dedication of all people, being the last one - pursuit perfection (principle 5) - the one that implies the strongest and continuously commitment of people in order to improve all the processes and activities in companies, through the waste elimination.

34

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July 2017

GARMENT FOCUS This problem analysis could be detailed by technological process of the textile industry: spinning,weaving, textile ! Â $ X & Â&#x201E; = ' ) & $ X & & that consume more energy and water: it is impossible to $ X & ' & ' & ( several washes, so, high water consumption and energy to heat the water

â&#x20AC;˘

â&#x20AC;˘

Conclusion Finally, this research shows the application of lean principles to the garment industry. According to our familiarity, it is the prime time that lean thinking has successfully implemented in the garment industry. We hope that this paper contains its worth for practitioners in the garment industries.

Due to increased customer expectations and severe global competition, the Indian garment industries are trying to increase productivity at lower cost and to produce with best product and service quality. Under these considerations, we have tried to implement lean manufacturing techniques and achieve improvement in process environment, drastic reduction in human fatigue and cost with reasonable investment.

References â&#x20AC;˘ Mercado G. 2007. Question Garments- Ask the LeanManufacturing Experts Applying Lean in the GarmentIndustry Retrieved January 12, 2008, Thomas Publishing Company. â&#x20AC;˘ M.Eswaramoorthi, G.R. Kathiresan, P.S.S.Prasad, P.V.Mohanram. A survey on lean practices in Indian machine tool industries. International journal of ad-

ÂŽ

â&#x20AC;˘

â&#x20AC;˘

â&#x20AC;˘

vanced manufacturing technol-ogy. 2011, 52: 10911101.

Rother. M. and Shook. J. 1999. Learning to see value Stream Mapping to added value and eliminate muda.

International Journal of Physical Distribution and Logistics Management.

Farhana Ferdousi and Amir Ahmed. 2009. An Investigation of Manufacturing Performance Improvement through Lean Production: A Study on Bangladeshi Garment Firms, interna-tional journal of business management. ( = ) *)Â&#x160;) {{Â&#x2021;) X & manufacturing tools. Production and inventory management journal Brewer, A.S. and Pojasek, R.B. (2012). Assessing environmental sustainability performance at the national level environmental quality management Willem Niepce and Eric Molleman(1996) â&#x20AC;&#x153;A case study: Characteristics of work organisation in lean production and sociotechnical systemsâ&#x20AC;?, International Journal of Operations & Production Management Gadekar, R.A. and Gadekar, A. (2015). Integration of lean-green manufacturing practices to towards environment friendly products: plastic industry. International Journal of Modern Trends in Engineering and Research.

Aditi Joshi Yogita Agrawal ReenaKumrawat Rajesh Dhore Student & Faculty, Shri Vaishnav Vidyapeeth Vishwavidyalaya Grambaroli, Sanwer Road, Indore (M.P.)

Techtextil India Commences This September Industry giants like Welspun and Reliance to showcase solutions at the fair Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s technical textile and nonwoven industry continues to be one of the fastest growing sectors within the textile industry. Now in its 6th edition, Techtextil India continues to bring forward the latest technology in technical textile, nonwoven and garment machinery and is scheduled to take place from September, 13-15, 2017 at Bombay Convention and Exhibition Centre, Mumbai

@ ÂŁ+ = @ ' \ Â&#x2018; Â&#x161;& X ¨ ' dia, Lenzing AG, Archroma, CHT India will have their latest innovations spread across the exhibition space covering these application areas.

According to recent studies, the nonwoven sector has emerged to be one of the most preferred areas for investment in India.The technical textile industry also has = & & $ X about 9% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s total consumption manufactured international contingents from countries like Germany, in India. With a progressive market behaviour like this, the China, Korea, Switzerland, Italy, Belarus, amongst others buyer-seller meet organised by Techtextil India, between will be showcasing the latest trends and technologies in the exhibitors and potential buyers can prove to be exthis sector. The show size being increased by 50% since $ ! X & ( ( & the last edition will have space dedicated to 10 product tor as it helps in building new contacts and understanding groups and 12 application areas of Agrotech, Buildtech, individual business needs.

Clothtech, Geotech, Hometech, Indutech, Medtech, MoApart from pre-arranged buyer-seller meets, Techtextil biltech, Oekotech, Packtech, Protech, Sportech. Some of India also conducts a symposium which is a premier fothe big industry players like Reliance Industry, Welspun. rum for the technical textiles and the nonwoven industry

July 2017

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35

FASHION FOCUS

( = & & $ ] X sionals across the industry. The conference brings together participants representing the entire cross-section and all stakeholders of the industry at a common platform to learn about the market outlook, trends, developments, opportunities and challenges in the industry and also net' = ' & & $ ) * X ics that would be highlighted during this event are, Protective Agrotextilesâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; Advantages and Future Prospects, Textiles in Aerospace Applications, Fibre Innovations for Functional and Value Added Nonwovens amongst others.

Another important feature is the launch of Texpcess Pavilion. Texpocess as a brand has been a leading trade fair

for international garment manufacturing and textile processing industry. With Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s contribution in the technical textile industry expected to grow at 12% CAGR and reach 1,16,217 crore by 2017-18, the need for new technologies in garment manufacturing machinery is on a rise. >

& X ' materials, machinery and equipment that are not readily available in India and importing those materials are expensive. The launch of Texprocess Pavilion will provide all the garment machinery manufacturers a great platform to display their innovations and build a new and strong client base while at the same time allow Indian market to see how these solutions can help expand their existing capabilities.

How Fashion Industry Is Changing Through E-commerce Portals Fashion is oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s style and illustrates its character in the society. For instance, a man with pop coloured trousers and well pleated breasted coat will incite more curiosity in your heart than a man with a jeans and T-shirt. The way you drape or dress states a lot of your personality. So it is always said to choose your clothes wisely.

What are the trends that will decide the future of fashion e-commerce?

Any type of fashion based e-commerce knows the technique to manipulate the desires of the consumer. & $ $ X & ] = a dig much deeper into the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mind to raise the urge or need of that product. Monthly or weekly

! (able price tags are some of the main attractions that many e-commerce brands such as Flipkart, Myntra, IndiaRush, Snapdeal do. An online seller <

but also provides outstanding collection. More the vibrant clothes are ( ! ! Â&#x152; the people will opt for them. Another story is about the millennial who are more vulnerable and tend to select and redesign their wardrobe in every few months. To steal the attention,

36

someone wearing their favourite as a support or a kind of inspiration which they completely get from the sides of the stars. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fast Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; term has evolved to express the movement of recent designs from the catwalk platforms to the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe.

brick and mortar retailers are moving into online platforms to target maximum contemporary loving people. In this case, they have also introduced AR (augmented reality) and VR (virtual reality) technology where people can purchase products online easily.

One can check at the comfort of their couch if the dressâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s colour, style, pattern, length are suiting them or not through augmented reality.

Understanding the geographical loca &

Â&#x152; for instance, people from South or East India with an age group of 30-45 will majorly purchase sari.

Inclination Towards Celebrity Labels Many Bollywood and Hollywood superstars have launched their own signature lines such as Kylie Jennerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cosmetics, The Label Life, Skull, Rheson, All about You and much more.

The fashion enthusiast loves to have

Even many e-commerce websites have approached this technique and have gathered a massive attention as well.

How are Indian ethnic wears evolving with western essence nowadays?

The fashion industry is oozing with lots of western fashion and tastes and & & & ! $ `

to choose oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ethnic best. There is a still chance for many brands to come up in ethnic or Indian traditional genre and one of the companies trying to project wide selection of women ethnic wears is IndiaRush. Not only ecommerce sites, but there are many brands who are posting their product on social media platforms such as Facebook, Instagram, Whatsapp and etc. for selling purpose. In a survey, it has been noticed that almost 85% of the generation purchase their apparels and fashion essentials from online stores because they provide it ` ' $ ' & est trending tag.

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July 2017

FASHION FOCUS

ITM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IFDT Hosts An Evening Of Design, Fun And Talent The rising stars of ITM Institute of Fashion, Design and Technology showcased their talent during SPARKPLUG 2017, the annual design event of ITM IFDT. Graduating students showcased their creative identities and their work processes as they begin their professional careers. The show featured a range of collection, from highly conceptual garments to ready-to-wear, high-street designs.

The couture collections designed by student designers were inspired by Wilted Flowers, World War 1, Classy Black, Gangs of Samurai, Greek Goddess Theia, Godfather amongst others. The event witnessed the presence of Shalini Jaikaria Founder of @ & Â&#x201C; Â&#x17E; Â&#x160; $ Â&#x2013; of Design at Birla Cellulose, Aditya Birla Group, Sanjeev Wadhwani Creative Head Killer Jeans, Amit Nawani, Assistant Brand Manager, Siyarams and celebrity fashionista Sucheta Sharma, a model actress from the famous movie â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, Priyanka

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Shah, an Indian actress and beauty pageant title holder.

The students of the Interior Design department showcased their talents in the form of research folders, concept visual diaries, scale models of various projects. Marlyn Pillay, Design head West region Colors division, Asian Paints, and Simi Ghanshani Hafele India Pvt. Ltd. from the industry appreciated the hard work of the students. Students also showed various prototypes which were created in house.

Speaking on the occasion Nitin Putcha CEO, ITM Group of Institutions commented, â&#x20AC;&#x153;SPARKPLUG 2017â&#x20AC;? the annual design event has become one of the leading students initiative Design show. I would like to congratulate all the students who made the event a wonderful one.

lulose said â&#x20AC;&#x153;The fashion industry in our country is getting dynamic and with each passing year there have been excellent platforms emerging for young talent. Motivating the students, Sanjeev Wadhwani, Killer jeans mentioned, â&#x20AC;&#x153;ITM IFDT has showcased exceptional designs at the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spark Plug 2017â&#x20AC;? the design show.

ITM also recognized the hard work of graduating students by giving them the award in the following category of Best Design collection, Best Interior Design concept, best exhibit Interior Design amongst others. Amit Nawani, Assistant Brand Manager Siyaramsand Shalini Jaikaria Founder of Geisha Designs while awarding the winners mentioned, â&#x20AC;&#x153;It has reinstated our faith that the future of Indian design industry is in competent handsâ&#x20AC;?.

The show ended with Jury being felicitated with special recognitions.

The Jury congratulated the designers both Fashion and Interior, Nelson Â&#x160; $ Â&#x2013; Â&#x201C; -

37

BUSINESS UPDATE

Stäubli Anniversary: Quality And Innovation As A Driving Force For 125 Years

After starting in a small workshop in 1892, Stäubli has developed into a leading industrial partner for highquality mechatronic solutions and technologies. With three dedicated activities â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Connectors, Robotics and Textile â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stäubli is valued by industrial customers worldwide for its highquality products and cutting-edge technologies.

the DEIMO company was acquired, a long-time industry partner providing drive and control systems for a wide range of applications.

This expansion strategy has been constantly augmented by intensive R&D activities, and today the result can be seen in a comprehensive range of high-performance products integrating state-of-the-art technolowarp-leasing system that is still widegies. This machinery is renowned for Two family threads came together at ly used today. Following the death of exceptional reliability, unsurpassed the end of the 19th century â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the heyRudolph Schelling in 1909, the comproduction speeds, and very long day of the Swiss textile industry â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and pany was renamed Stäubli. service life. SAFIR automatic drawingwere woven into a new corporate fabric: Rudolph Schelling and Hermann Geographical spread and portfolio in machines, the latest generation of S3000/S3200 dobbies, the LX/LXL Stäubli, displaying both commercial expansion electronic Jacquard machines, ALPHA acumen and technical skill, founded The Stäubli Group has grown exubercarpet weaving systems, the TF techthe company â&#x20AC;&#x153;Schelling & Stäubliâ&#x20AC;? in antly since 1892, in both technical and nical weaving systems, and DEIMO the Swiss village of Horgen in 1892. geographic terms. Already in 1909 knitting solutions all attest to contiAt that time, this village on the shores * ÂŻ ! !

X $ nuity and a passion for innovation, of Lake Zurich â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and on the silk road followed by additional production which is embedded in the DNA of the as well â&#x20AC;&#x201C; was the site of many mills sites in other European countries as company. operating a total of some 1,000 weavwell as in the Americas and China. ing machines. Hermann Stäubli had Excellence means constant imacquired his initial know-how by re- The Groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Textile activities have provement and development in all pairing these machines. After a short grown in line with its corporate tarareas time, he set out to produce superior gets, and Stäubli has become a leadmachinery. His credo from the start ing supplier to the global weaving in- % & ( & X was the highest quality and a pro- dustry. In 1969 Stäubli acquired the our company from the beginning â&#x20AC;&#x201C; itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nounced customer focus. He sought German company Trumpelt, which rooted deeply in the nature of Stäuno less than to make the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best specialised in heavy dobbies. As a bliâ&#x20AC;?, says Rolf Strebel, Stäubli CEO. dobbies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with which weaving mills shedding solution specialist in frame â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the reason we constantly develop could achieve optimal results. Even weaving, the company then decided new solutions which add value for in those early days, Stäubli set very to expand its range to include Jac- our customers. Other decisive fac& & `

Â&#x152; quard weaving. This led to the acqui- tors for our long-term success are the

X $ ' ( ! sition of Verdol in Lyon, a manufactur- &

lower cost, higher quality, and with a er of mechanical Jacquard machines. around the globe, our inquisitiveness, And to expand its product range to and our philosophy of continuous imgreater variety of patterns. cover the complete weaving process, provement. Our aspiration is to conAlready in 1893, Schelling & Stäuthe companies Zellweger (weaving stantly improve â&#x20AC;&#x201C; on a human, pro! & X !!$ preparation solutions) and SchĂśn- fessional, and technical level and to signed and constructed in house. In herr (carpet weaving systems) were remain just as successful during the ~ {{ & $ & ' < X purchased in 1994 and 1998. Finally, next 125 years.â&#x20AC;? paper-card dobby, equipped with a

38

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January 2018 9-12 HEIMTEXTIL Frankfurt/Germany, ihgf.epch@epch.com 15-18 TEHRANTEX Tehran/ Iran

February 2018 4-8 Spring Fair Birmingham/UK, members@epch.com 9-13 Ambiente Frankfurt/Germany, seminar@epch.com

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1A5T0FTHE LEAVES FALL WHILE AN AUTUMNAL GLOW PERMEATES THROUGH THETREES, WINTER DRAWS EVER SO SUGHTlY,

EHUES OF AUTUMN 2017 SUITiNG FABRICS, FOR MOMENTS OF WARMTH,