ual - chelsea college of art ma textile design
tradition & innovation How are Chinese traditional elements Used in Contemporary products?
name: JINGSI WANG student no.: wan16497809
brie ‘Designers are interested in Culture. But sometimes they treat it in a way corporations used to treat design: something consulted too little, too late… its odd when we consider how often designers have shaped Culture.’ –Grant McCracken
What is culture? In the traditional era, “culture is referred to as a pattern that signifies human activity manifested by the arts, music, sculpture, theatre, dance, film, fashion, design, food and architecture” (Carlson, 2011). In the contemporary society, “it also includes the Internet, entertainment, and the cult of celebrity, as part of a range of cultural signifiers” (Carlson, 2011). Design, as an artistic expression, has become a label of the society which is interrelated with culture closely (Carlson, 2011). It becomes a presentation of a large process of cultural exploration which means to capture ideation, innovation and enterprise (Carlson, 2011). According to Heimtextil (2017), cultural exploration also becomes a key theme in these years, asking questions about how traditional culture is used in contemporary design. Currently, new designs take elements from ancient techniques and traditional patterns and merge them with modern skills (Heimtextil, 2017) as designers are aware that their work serves contemporary consumers. Therefore, a new style of productions emerges: the cultural and creative production. How are Chinese traditional elements used in contemporary design? In my studio practise, learning about traditional culture is a basic element, then I should connect with the contemporary parts for re-creation. My studio practise would like to choose one branch of Chinese culture to show how the authenticity can be applied in contemporary design. For another aspect, sustainability is a prime development in present society, which can be a collaboration between traditional culture of materials and handmade techniques to create finest slow design in the future.
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rief
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inspira
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ration The inspiration of my studio practice is based on the Chinese traditional and indigenous religion of Taoism. The design takes ideas from the Taoist representation of Ba Xian, and its well-known ancient story called “Ba Xian Guo Hai ” or “the Eight Immortals crossing the sea” (Werner, 1922). The pattern design used the tools belonging to the immortals, called An Ba Xian in Chinese, which are usually used in interior design. It means that the family will have good fortune and peace forever (ihediao, 2016). This project is textile wall ornament based on natural material of cork fabric, silk thread and recycled paper folding fans. It is the slow upcycling work by hand embroidery.
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resea Market Research
Longquan Caledon
During the projec traditional elements like Shi Jiaran wh little red, and gold who used Blue and inspiration. All of th Celadon which is green jaderoote based on the Terra traditional inspiratio a traditional embroid in contemporary de life. Each
Shi Jiaran
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Wang Hui
earch
Guo Pei
oject, I researched many different designers who used Chinese ents in their contemporary designs. Some used traditional colours, who used the typical Chinese colours that include gradient blue, old (Zhigeng, 2017). Some used traditional patterns, like Guo Pei and white porcelain in her fashion design. The most important is the of these design is based on Chinese traditional culture. Longquan h is one kind of porcelain that is glazed in a green-blue colour like ooted in Taoism. Ma Ke’s design which won an award in 1994 is Terra Cotta Warriors to recreate a mighty soldier. It transferred the ation to a new creation (China silk museum, n.d). Wang Hui who is broidery designer wishes Chinese traditional culture can be applied y design, and more importantly those products can be used in daily ach of her design will own a story and a special meaning.
Ma Ke
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resea Colour Trend Research
The colour trend research is from Heimtextil. Cultural exploration is one of the key trend from Heimtextil theme part in 2017. According to the Hemtextil video, the colour blood of brown is the vital colour. The natural brown wood colour can provide a traditional and original feeling, so I decided my basic fabric is cork. And cork fabric provided a different colour pallet, so my design colours focus on connecting with the original colours from nature. (Heimtextil, 2017)
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earch Culture Research
Taoism is a traditional religion in China formed around 2000 years ago. It is believed that Taoism have roots in Shamanic traditions and is established by a famous philosopher called Laozi (Reninger, 2016). According to Taoism, the inspiration comes from the natural world, which is called the way (Tao). Tao is the passionate love for the nature (Yetts, 1916). Therefore, Taoist pattern focuses on exploring the relationships between the internal and external terrains, for example, how the human body can be related to mountains, rivers and forests (Reninger, 2016). Ba Xian, as a key representative of Taoist religion, refers to eight immortals. The image of these immortals stands for all human beings include the old, young, male, female, civil, military, rich, poor, afflicted, cultured and noble (Werner, 1922). Their portraits appear frequently to connote happiness. Moreover, the pattern of the tools that the immortals carry with is used in the interior products’ design (figure), which shows the meaning of protecting families and remaining happiness forever (Hediao, 2016). In this design, it is based an ancient phrase Ba Xian Guo Hai, “the Eight Immortals crossing the sea�.
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resea Material Research
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I got more ideas for creating fan cover patterns and materials from the visiting at the Fan Museum in Greenwich. It provided a fans’ show about biblical story. I got the inspiration of stories’ fan cover. I decided to make a decorative wall based Chinese traditional phrase from Taoism. And it also provided the idea of how to make the reverse side of fan cover which I made by simple pattern from the right side of fan cover. Drawing pattern is a main element for digital print design. All of my pattern designs is from my own paintings. During the many tests of drawing, I decided two main forms for my design. The first is Chinese traditional drawing which connects with my topic and the freestyle of drawing can provide more Chinese inspiration. Another is the style by Johanna Basford. I used this style for the back of the fan. For the folding fan, it has two side. The cover side is the traditional pattern with hand embroidery and the back side is contemporary style of pattern by single colour drawing.
earch Cork fabric is natural material with wood texture. This fabric is my primary material for digital print. There are three reason why I chose it. Firstly, the colour inspiration of my project is ‘Cultural exploration’ from the Hemtextil theme park in 2017. According to the Hemtextil video, the colour blood of brown is the vital colour. The natural brown wood colour can provide a traditional and original feeling. Secondly, digital print is my basic part in my project. In studio practice, I would like to try digital print on cork fabric which has a brown and textural background instead of white and plain background, so it provided a different colour palette. I also steamed the fabric and used colour catcher after digital print to protect the colour keeping in the fabric. At the last, cork fabric is a sustainable material which is friendly for environment. It is made by natural wood, so it has very beautiful texture which can associate with tree or plants. Silk is a traditional material in China. The inspiration of my project is from Chinese tradition, so I chose these treads. And looking at my technique, it is traditional embroidery which is more famous of silk. On another hand, silk treads have light colours, so they are more suitable for decorative design. They are also softer and stranger than cotton treads. The paper folding fan is a normal product in China. It will have a mass consumption in daily life. The most of frameworks of fan is made by bamboos and special woods which have a long life, so they can be reused. I tried to find recycled framework of fan to create upcycling designs.
Style Research
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drawing &
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& pattern
The ideas from the Taoist representation of Ba Xian, and its well-known ancient story called “Ba Xian Guo Hai ” or “the Eight Immortals crossing the sea” (Werner, 1922). The pattern design used the tools belonging to the immortals, called An Ba Xian in Chinese, which are usually used in interior design. It means that the family will have good fortune and peace forever (ihediao, 2016). The eight pattern is seprated four groups by my divergent thinking. Each of the groups will have a small topic, including exrorcise evils, bamboo, flowers and Chinese medicine. Connecting of the story of Ba Xian Guo Hai, I used the cloud pattern for the backgrounf, because they are across the cloud sea in the tale.
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exorcise
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se evils
Sword - Lu Dongbin Description: The sword is scared by demons when it appears. Meaning: It can overthrow evil and exorcism.
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exorcise
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se evils
Castanets - Cao Guojiu Description: The world will be peace when the castanets play a harmony music. Meaning: It can clean the environment.
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exorcise
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se evils
The theme of this group is exorcising evils. The meaning of the word is scared by demons when it appears, which can overthrow evil and exorcism. The castanets stand for cleaning the environment, whihc is decribed that the world will be peace when the castanets play a harmony music. Both of them will provied a peaceful and happy world, so I used the theme of exorcising evils for this group. Peachwood and orchid are the typical plants can avoid evils in Chinese traditional stories. In many tales, Lv Dongbing's sword is made of peachwood. This group's theme is from the similar meanings.
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bamb
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mboo
Bamboo tube and rods Zhang Guolao Description: The tube can provide fine sound because of frequency knocking. Meaning: It can be able to divination future life.
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bamb
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mboo
Flute - Han Xiangzi Description: The flute can provide peace environment when blowing. Meaning: It can help everything to grow up.
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bamb
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mboo
Flute and bamboo tube and rods are Chinese traditional musical instruments. In the story, the sound of bamboo tube and rods can provide a happiness life and the music by the flute can help the environment better. The dead plants can grow up again when the flute plays music. The theme of this group is bamboo. I decided them together because of the kinds and the material. Both of them is musical instruments, and both of them is made by bamboo. In this group of design, the bamboo pattern used the style of Chinese traditional drawing which catch from water and ink paintings.
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flow
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wers
Flower baskets – Lan Caihe Description: The flower basket has many special and fine goods. Meaning: It can talk with gods.
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flow
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wers
Lotus pod - He Xiangu Description: Lotus does not have any dust. Meaning: It can help to improve self-cultivation.
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flow
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wers
The theme of this group is flower. They do not have a similar meaning. The flower basket means miracle. In the tale, the basket can provide anything for people. Lotus is a typical flower in Chinese culture. It has the meaning of peace and pure. He Xiangu’s lotus can help to improve self-cultivation, and purify people's soul. In this gourp of pattern design, I just put similar goods together. Flower can connect with flower basket.
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chinese m
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medicine
Crutch and gourd - Li Tiezhuan Description: Gourd does not only have five blessing. Meaning: It can save the all living beings.
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chinese m
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medicine
Fan – Zhongli Quan Description: It will feel happiness when the fan shakes gently. Meaning: It can save life.
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chinese m
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medicine
In Ba Xian’s story, Zhongli Quan and Li Tieguan is the senior in eight immortals. Health is an important thing in a long history. In tales, the gourd has many different Chinese medicine which can heal all people. The fan is a special tool can save life when it blows. Both of them can provide health for people, so I think of Chinese medicine which is also a typical good for China. I chose beautiful medicine which has light colours or special shapes.
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techn During technique experience at class or outside class, I studied many different kinds of skills helped me to decide the useful techniques for my project. I decided to use digital print and hand embroidery for my project. Firstly, my topic is that how are Chinese traditional culture in contemporary designs. Digital print is a new convenient technology at present, which can be drown on fabric with any styles of patterns quickly. Handwork is an original way in ancient world. Hand embroidery is a traditional and slow technique. I used the satin stitch which is the Chinese traditional stitch of embroidery for my design. Secondly, digital print is an easy technique for create products, which can reduce more processes. The easier can be friendlier for environment. And hand embroidery can provide a slow design which can reduce over mass production.
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referen
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Ihediao (2016) Daoist classic: hidden symbolism of the eight immortals, KK news, 18 July. Available at: https://kknews.cc/culture
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