CONTENTS Goal of design -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Marketing research ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Material ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Conclusion & evolution -------------------------------------------------------------------
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Artists research
Technique Colour
Development of design Skill
Final design
Bibliography
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GOAL OF DESIGN
The goal of this project is textile future. I will focus on future material with recycling fabric which is the main theme for sustainable development. On the other hand, digital and handmade becomes another topic from 2010 digital revolution. Through this project, I want to check digital and handmade technique how to make together. Digital revolution is from 2010, influencing textile design. For design, it has two different parts with digital and handmade. It may have conflicts with each other. Digital come into people’s lives and handmade technique start to go away the world. For example, some digital machine compare with handmade tools and some design from computer compare with design from drawing picture. I think that handmade and digital have their own advantages, so I would like to use them together. This project is based on the research from some contemporary artists, getting some ideas with techniques and materials. The vital techniques are digital with laser-cutter and handmade with stencil and paper waving. It will connect digital and handmade together, which is my crucial idea. Materials will choose some recycle fabrics, leather and denim, or reuse paper. On the other hand, I will colour blank paper or fabric instead of complete coloured paper and fabric, which is good for my design idea. About the pattern idea, I consider the new patterns based on original pattern from nature. it is based on plants drawing and butterflies. The pattern will use various techniques and tools with different styles through the whole development design process.
For productions and customers, this design focuses on skirts and purses for young ladies in the season of autumn or winter, so the colours would choose dark one or gradient one, which is suitable for cold weather. It would be fashionable or individual, because the main design is for young women.
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ARTIST RESEARCH - JUNYA WATANABE These works from Junya Watanabe, which are affected by the African style with inlaid lace, gingham, flowered and paisley prints. The main colour is indigo tone, because they are made by recycle jeans. This idea makes the whole works to be more layered. These collections show a good view with fab denim and tribal detailing.
I prefer fashion which are made by recycle fabric. From the top two designs, it is clear to show the part of jeans. And added some another material to get a new fashion. From recycle clothing, I can get some ideas from the old design which can combine own design to obtain a new work. It is a good way to open mind and it is good for sustainable development. 4
ARTIST RESEARCH - Jum Nakao (Paper fashion) This style is ultra-intricate dresses which are created by delicate paper. Patterns imitate lacework and bas-reliefs simulating brocades. Paper is a fragile and ephemeral material, but it is easy to change and improve ideas. Laser-cut dress can appear ladies’ bodies which is a good way to give a original presentation. Basreliefs imitate the type of sculpture, which is repeat pattern to make the dress to be more elegant.
I focus on the part of laser-cut. It uses a sequential arrangement which show the original body obviously. The whole design gives an elegant presentation. There is one design which is used soft line paper to complete a tippet that can embellish the dress. And the top design just used the line, which is an interesting way to describe fashion. And anther two designs use repeat pattern to display a gradient view.
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ARTIST RESEARCH - Jum Nakao (LEATHER fashion) This design use laser-cut and waving technique. The vital material is leather with cotton or chiffon. There is repeat pattern to describe the fashion. They combine with same and simple block lase-cut, but they have a prominent individuality. I like the repeat pattern which has clear presentation. And it is ingenious to use the pattern to improve details with a better looking.
I prefer this design. It is completed by many same circles with many details. It is important to have a nice arrangement. It is a 3D work to show the future fashion. I would like to improve this way to be my leather design. Patterns will be from my own drawing pictures. 6
ARTIST RESEARCH - Catherine Lang
This research is from a design student who has studied in university in 2013. She drew some stencil figure which is put on other colourful paper. These paper are drawing various building. Various people is playing in front of the buildings, which can feel more layered.
I am interested the stencil technique which is a special way in this work. It uses various buildings’ drawing to be background. When the same figure on the different colours’ paper, it can give different feelings. I would like to try this technique with my own drawing from plants. And I will improve the stencil which is made by tracing paper. It can give indistinct looking. 7
ARTIST RESEARCH - Jonathan Saunders Jonathan Saunders, a Scottish-born artist, develops a clear handwriting in fashion and textile. I choose his collection from the design in Autumn/Winter 2006. These works used the material with silk, wool crepes, satins and chiffon. It provides a more comprehensive range of shapes with the colour bars along hems.
I like the style which is like paper waving to make dresses’ hem. The right design is just completed by line fabrics, so the pattern is checkerboard which use an individual technique. And hem use the same bar fabric which is falling naturally. The right example is made by hand-printed silk which just has waving pattern instead of the real waving. I would like to taste the paper waving technique which is a good way for making hem of skirts. 8
MARKETING RESEARCH - skirts I would like to design long or short skirts in this project. It will be made by leather or cotton which is suitable for Autumn or Winter. These skirts will have more than two levels and the laser-cut pattern is on the top level. It can also use engraving via laser-cutter and combine with some handmade techniques to finish this design.
This design is suitable for students who like short skirts to show fashionable. I would like to design skirts which is fit of Autumn or Winter, so skirts prefer to dark colours.
Long skirts have more lager customers. For long skirts, it does not need to be care of colour which is dark or light from seasons, but it needs more time to arrange the patterns’ options. I will add the part of tassels on the hems, so it needs a part to connect the pattern with tassels. And I will choose gradient colours to be background. 9
MARKETING RESEARCH - purse There are two different types’ purses. I would try to two types together, or do it with skirts’ way which has two levels by lasercutter. I will also use the paper waving to improve the tassels and 3D pattern arrangement to design the foreground of the leather purses.
The purse with tassels focuses on students. I will try to use technique from Jonathan Saunders whose skill is like paper waving to make the fringe fabric to fall down naturally. There would be checkerboard pattern on the purse, which decorates objects.
Laser-cut purse will connect with 3D pattern. It will have the same way with skirts with leather one. There are same circles to be foreground on the surface and engraving laser-cut to be background.
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MATERIAL – recycle PAPER This is a way to use many recycle paper from old letters. It needs to be care about available colours to complete nice design. I try to use recycle paper with newspaper and wallpaper.
I try to use newspaper to be the basic design. Then I colored it by myself. I chose the similar colours with yellow or orange. The first one is cut many various peace to paste together, which gets a flower shape. And another one just used newspaper to be drawing paper, and then used the stencil way to draw the flower shape on the newspaper.
This work is made by recycle wallpaper from home. I used them to do laser-cut, so it gets a new style. Recycle wallpaper is designed by others, so I would try to use my own pattern to be background instead of these design.
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MATERIAL – recycle FABRIC
I obtain some ideas of recycle jeans, which connect with my idea about sustainable fabric. This is a good taste to improve my design which is based on others’ old works. I used various recycle fabric to be development.
These works used recycle leather and recycle clothing from denim to cotton. The leather one is made by laser-cutter, but other two is made by myself. The right one is based on a plant photo, but it is unsuccessful, which can not look a clear lineout.
This is a sample to imitate the skill from Junya Watanabe. I made it with kid’s jeans which is changed to a skirt now. I used gauze to be the hems. It is not really successful, but it is a good taste to understand how to make new design under the original clothing.
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TECHNIQUE - STENCIL Reverse stencil
Paper stencil Engrave the pattern with negative and positive. Then colours on the negative parts to get a new object which is like laser-cut pattern.
I try to make some stencils by hand. It is a little bit hard to control the knife, but it gets a good results for print on others’ paper. I will improve the technique with lasercutter. This is a good way to obtain some own design fabric, which I change their colours.
A good technique with various geometric paper to be complete a new object which is pasted on another paper. Then colouring the whole paper gets a positive and negative pattern.
This work used flowers to be patterns. And then coloured black to make reverse stencil. This is another way which is different with paper stencil.
This work also used flowers to be patterns. It used the gradient colour paper to be the background. It does not coloured pigment to make reverse stencil. I tried to use white pigment and brush, splashing white colour with points. It does not have an obvious shape, but it is a good way which is like snow in the sky. 13
TECHNIQUE - block print This is stamp way to get pattern, so they are repeat pattern. There are some patterns based on the block by block, and another is based on flowers. Card board block These patterns are used positive and negative laser-cut flowers to stamp. It stamps block by block.
Others block
Wood block
I use different ways to draw them. The top two is used a hole which is engraved by a paper, and then draw line through it. The first one is drawn by watercolour and the second one is drawn by colour pencil. The bottom one is rolling strings on wood, and stamped it with an ordered block by ink.
This is cut through machine by wood. And I print the pattern on the paper and fabric. However, I do not get a good result, it has problem with my pigment. 14
TECHNIQUE – paper waving Paper
Fabric
The technique of paper waving is a good taste to use in fabric. I get the idea from Jonathan Saunders. I would like to study this way to be one design of skirts’ hem or purse tassel. It has a checkerboard pattern, and I make fringes falling down naturally.
I improve to make it by fabric which includes recycle leather, reuse denim and old silk carves.
This is a sample for how to making a tassel purse with paper waving technique. It can be saw a clear checkerboard pattern with fringe hem. I would do this way for my one design for purse.
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colour This project is for the season of autumn or winter, so it also needs to focus on the colour range. Colour is important for production design. Cold colours or light colours can give people fresh feeling, but it is cold in winter. However, warm colours or dark colours can warm people’s emotion, so these colours can feel comfortable.
Denim in indigo
Gradient colours
Dark colours
These are three samples for colour. Denim which is a vital fabric in autumn and winter is indigo. The light colour is not fit into cold season, so I add the dark colour to match with it. The last one, I used brown colour with leather. This is a usual colour in winter for ladies. 16
DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN In this project, many patterns are based on plants with butterfly from photos in the nature. Then, I added my types to drawing them which are completed with geometries. Finally, I improved them via various materials with lasercutter.
Butterfly
Peony
This pattern design is based on the nature from internet photo. Then, draw peony with bock by block, and use the laser-cutter to cut through with different materials.
This pattern design is based on butterfly from book photo. I draw them with lines which is suitable for laser-cut. I would use this way to be 3D works. 17
DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN Various flowers
This pattern design is based on various flowers. I draw them with lines by fine line pen, and then cut them with laser-cutter where I get the shape of flowers. Finally, I use the stencil technique to complete the different shape together. It gains a good pattern to be background of design.
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DEVELOPMENT OF DESIGN Plants from class
This pattern design is based on plants from school. It is just drawn like the original plants, first. Then, I draw it with geometry shape to complete the leaves. Finally, I use the single pattern to collect a whole motif to be background of the design. It is cut through engraving way by paper and leather. 19
SKILL Technique from digital and handmade - Laser-cutter This project is based on laser-cut. During this time, I learnt how to use laser-cutter by Aps-Ethos Series. This is a good way to make digital design with lace work. There are various ways to develop my design with engraving, kiss-cutting and cut-through. - Software from computer Last project focus on Photoshop, but this time is Illustration. The laser-cutter needs line drawing to be development, so Illustration is good at making design. - Stencil My significant handmade technique is stencil way. This way is good at matching with laser-cutter. Drawing patterns on the software and cut them with machine. Then, try to use different materials to print the patterns. I like the way to obtain repeat pattern which is easy and perfect. - Block print This is a new taste. Block by block printing is an interesting way. It needs wood to be basic objects and needs to control lasercutter more proficient, so I do not get a good result from this technique. I do not use this way to make my final design, however, it is a good taste in my development. - Paper waving This technique is from last year study. During last year, I just used paper to design works. I obtain inspiration from Jonathan Saunders, so I start to use fabric via this way. This is a good skill to make my design better.
Design - Sustainable fabric Sustainable fabric which is a significant theme for textile future is the vital material in this project. I study some new knowledge. First, it is how to choose fabric classification. Different fabrics are suitable for different seasons or weather with various patterns, and reuse clothing is limited. Therefore, it needs to consider clearly which one is good for design. Second, I think this is an interesting way to get some ideas from old design and to complete new design. - Paper and fabric together From the project, I get two designs by paper. Via artist research from Jum Nakao, it is an interesting way to make fashion with paper. Then, I add my idea to get a new design. Fabric is fit into people to make up and paper is easier to design. 20
FINAL DESIGN one – textile one Basic information The design is made by leather. The idea is from the leather work with Jum Nakao. I use the laser-cutter to finish the work. The background used engraving. The foreground is made by same laser-cut circle pattern, which get a 3D arrangement. About colour, I choose brown which is suitable for the cold weather.
Method
This design just use digital machine. About the background, I am based on the block leaves pattern from school. And group a new motif from the single leaf pattern. The foreground is based on same circle pattern which is from the drawing of peony. I cut them with machine, then needle them to be a line on the surface. It is a good accessary to decorate the design. Evolution This design would like to be short skirts or purses by leather for young ladies.
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FINAL DESIGN one – textile one (details)
These are foreground of single circle with the design.
This is basic pattern with the background. It just has a slight engraving pattern. 22
FINAL DESIGN one – Production Purse
Skirt
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FINAL DESIGN two – textile two Basic information This design obtains the idea from Junya Watanabe. I choose recycle fabric from jeans which has a good quality and indigo colour autumn and winter. Recycle fabric is a main theme for sustainable development in future textile. The vital techniques is stencil with laser-cut. And the tassel on the hem to decorate fashion. Method
In this design, I choose the fabric from jeans’ leg. I cut a pattern with lasercutter, and then, use the stencil print white colour on fabric to get repeat pattern. Next, I cut another pattern by machine on the hem to decorate design. Finally, I do some tassel by hand and needle under the hem of skirt. Evolution This design would like to be long skirts for young ladies. I want to improve more recycle fabric to do various fashion. It would make one fashion with more than two fabric like research. And it will continue making digital and handmade together, 24
FINAL DESIGN two – textile two (details)
This is tassel with laser-cut pattern on the hem.
It is basic pattern for the design. Left one is the stencil board pattern for printing and right one is the laser-cut pattern on the hem.
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FINAL DESIGN two – Production Skirt sample by handmade
Skirt
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FINAL DESIGN three – paper one Basic information This design gets main idea from Jonathan Saunders with Autumn/Winter fashion in 2006. Its material is paper with gauze fabric. The main colour is blue. I made the work with gradient colours which is suitable for autumn or winter, which is made by myself with soft pastel. The significant technique is stencil and paper waving with digital laser-cut. The pattern focuses on top part, butterfly and stencil flowers, and checkerboard patter by paper waving. Method First, it is the background. It makes by soft pastel with the similar colours from white to dark blue. The white points are used stencil way with brush and stick. I put the laser-cut board flowers on the paper. Then, I use a stick to beat brush with white watercolour. It can be found many points to collect positive and negative pattern. Second, it is the tassel. I use gauze fabric with paper waving technique. This time, I make the fringes to fall down naturally. There can be saw the checkerboard pattern which combines with paper and fabric. Third, it is the butterfly. When I finish the whole the design, I use the laser-cutter to cut a pattern which is beside the board flowers. It is like 3D work to decorate the design. Evolution This design would like to be long skirts with fringe to be hem or purses with tassels for young ladies. This design would improve fabric with cotton or chiffon in the future. 27
FINAL DESIGN three – paper one (image details)
This is the stencil way with brush and stick to make positive and negative pattern.
This is a butterfly pattern to cut by the laser-cutter, which is like a 3D work when I put it up.
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FINAL DESIGN three – Production Purse
Skirt
Purse sample by handmade
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FINAL DESIGN four – paper two Basic information
It is paper design which has three levels. It gets the idea from Jum Nakao’s paper design. The top one is tracing paper which can have a misty view. The middle level is colour paper with soft pastel and little flowers shape by newspaper. The below part is linen which colour with blue watercolour and white points. It combines techniques with stencil and laser-cut. Method The top level is made by tracing paper which has a laser-cut pattern with flower shape. Then, I add the middle part to be cut with tracing paper for butterfly patterns together. The colour is made by soft pastel from light yellow to light red. And I use stencil to draw the flower shape on the paper by mark pen. On the other hand, I cut some flower shape by recycle newspaper to help the yellow paper more colourful. The last level is made by linen which I print on other colour. The white points are made by brush and stick like before design. When making them together, it looks more layered. I put laser-cut butterflies up, then it can get a 3D work to decorate the design. Evolution I would like to improve this work to be fabric with cotton and leather for short skirts and purses. It might change another gradient colour which is suitable for people’s preference.
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FINAL DESIGN four – paper two (details)
Butterfly pattern is up, which is like 3D work
The middle background is used newspaper with flower shape.
The blue background is the below level in the whole design.
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FINAL DESIGN four – Production Purse
Skirt
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conclusion & evolution
Conclusion In conclusion, this project starts from artist research which gives me ideas with material and technique. And then, from production research I decide to design purses and skirts for target customers with young ladies in autumn or winter. And the colour is also important for design, so I also focus on colour. I choose dark colour and gradient colour for cold weather. I am attracted on two topics from society. It is my main idea which connect with future textile. First one is sustainability. Therefore, I choose sustainable fabric from recycle and reuse. This is a good way to open my mind from old design and add own design to get new objects. Second one is digital and handmade technique. I think they have own advantages, so I would like to make then together to obtain my design. Finally, about pattern design, the good design is from nature, so nature is a good creator for us. I used some drawing from nature photo and add my own drawing style to gain a new pattern.
Evolution From evolution, first, I would like to design my two paper design to be textile. It might be cotton or chiffon. And it will continue making digital and handmade together, which is my main idea of design. For material, I want to try various recycle fabric or paper which is good for sustainable development. And from pattern, I might change my style to animals next time, which can combine with plants pattern together.
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