A GLOBAL REVIEW OF CHILDREN'S FASHION, DÉCOR AND LIFESTYLE
Fall/Winter 2021-22
Essential Design News for the Season
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Décor Direction from Maison & Objet
New Fashion Trends New and Colors and
letter from the editor Dear Reader, Welcome to the seventh issue of Kids à la Mode: A Global Review of Children’s Fashion, Décor and Lifestyle. Why have we added “Lifestyle” to our sub-heading? Because in today’s dramatically fast-changing world, it’s impossible to separate fashion from the current events of the world at large, and the way we live in response to those events. An obvious and profound change is due to the current lack of in-person trade shows, traditionally the time we meet our industry colleagues and get an inspiring overview of the new season. While we eagerly await the shows’ return, there is still plenty of creativity and talent to be discovered. Kids à la Mode brings you our selection of the season’s very best international children’s wear collections, presented in favorite features such as “Essential Trends,” “Color Trends,” themed collage “Looks” and more. This issue includes in-depth interviews with the creators of top-level lines at Paade Mode, Raspberry Plum and Senorita Lemoniez, with looks at their exquisite Fall/Winter 2021 collections. As the boundaries between home, school and work disappear, the home décor sector is ever more important. Kids à la Mode showcases some fabulous finds for kid’s décor and accessories, seen at Maison & Objet Digital Show, including Mathy by Bols, Maison Deux, Sergeant Paper, AFKliving and others. These companies’ products transcend from function into art, and will surely be appreciated as equally by adults as by children. We can’t imagine a better way to celebrate Kids à la Mode Lifestyle than to highlight the lives and art of two great talents, Rudy Ruffo and Lamont Joseph White. Rudy tells delightful stories of his amazing career as celebrity hairdresser and photographer, while Lamont shares his thoughts about “Skiing in Color”, the inspiration for his powerful and important collection of paintings on this topic. We are especially excited to present Lamont’s painting as the smiling cover girl for Kids à la Mode #7!
Janet A. Jacobs, Editor-in-Chief
PUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Janet A. Jacobs
KIDS À LA MODE 57 Lincoln Ave. Little Falls, NJ 07424 USA Phone: (01) 973-890-9048 www.kidsalamodemagazine.com KidsALaModeMagazine kids_a_la_mode
LAYOUT AND GRAPHIC DESIGN Rick Celano Maria Bowden Carly Michelson Studio Bosch © Kids à la Mode 2021/all rights reserved
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR David Jacobs
www.tuttopiccolo.es
contributing staff Janet A. Jacobs Publisher / Editor-in-Chief Janet has been involved with nearly every aspect of children's fashion for over thirty-five years. Graduating from Fashion Institute of Technology, New York with a degree in fashion design, she has been working continuously in the industry ever since. Janet has designed children’s apparel and products for clients throughout the United States and South America. As a photo / journalist she has written and photographed for major fashion and trade publications, traveling the world to pursue the latest trends and most current news. Her expertise and exposure to global markets enable her to bring relevant, selective information to Kids a la Mode magazine. Janet also enjoys teaching swim and aquacise classes to children and adults.
David Jacobs Contributing Editor David's love of literature started early and continues to this day. He is the author of over sixty published novels and works of nonfiction, covering diverse genres as action/adventure, true crime, science fiction and especially American Westerns. For decades he has brought his unique and witty writing style to fashion publications as a copywriter, proofreader and contributing editor.
Studio Bosch Layout and Graphic Designer Located in Amsterdam, Studio Bosch brings together designers and artists with expertise in graphics, textile design, photography and fashion design. With such a diverse range of experience, Studio Bosch works on projects including magazine layout, children's wear design, textile prints, decor and lifestyle design. Studio Bosch is united in its passion for art, design and especially nature... after all, the name "bosch" means tree in old Dutch language!
Rick Celano Art Director Rick is a graphic designer and illustrator from Montclair, New Jersey. His love of graphic design, comic books and all things Art came from the fact that his father, his mother, and his grandmother were all artists. He just didn’t have a choice. Also known as “Rickman”, he has taught art and design to ages 5 to 95. Some of his art and design can be seen on his website RickmanArt.com along with the comics and children’s books that he’s published. Rick hopes that one day he will be the first comic book artist is space, though he fears the lack of oxygen may impede his progress.
Lamont Joseph White Contributing Artist Lamont is a New York City native with decades of design and illustration success in the fashion, home and magazine industries. As always, he often returns to his fine art passions for painting and drawing. His current series is entitled “Skiing In Color,” a celebration of representation and inclusion in the ski and outdoor spaces. Lamont’s work can be seen @lamontjosephwhite and lamontjosephwhite.com.
Maria Bowden Layout and Graphic Designer Maria began her design career early by sketching designs for her father’s embroidery business. She went on to study art and design at New Jersey City University and textile design at Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. As a freelance designer she has created designs and graphics for many infant and children’s apparel companies. Most recently she was stylist for a large children’s product company in New York. Maria’s interests extend to all forms of art including water color painting, house portraits and Coastal art.
Carly Michelson Layout and Graphic Designer
Carly is a New Jersey based photographer and graphic artist. She studied art and art history at Skidmore College in Saratoga Springs, New York. She currently works as a product photographer, while also shooting landscapes, family portraits, and events on the side. In her spare time, Carly volunteers with local animal welfare group New Jersey Strays, contributing her skills in photography, design and social media marketing.
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Contents 8 Pajamas for Peace
A company that promotes kindness through the act of giving.
10 Andy & Evan An inside look at a dynamic brand of kid’s clothes.
14 Maison & Objet Our top picks of outstanding products for kid’s décor.
20 Sol de Mayo
Introducing a beautiful brand of children’s clothing, accessories and art lamps.
24 Senorita Lemoniez
Bringing the refined talent of designer Fernando Lemoniez to girl’s fashion.
28 Essential Trends International collections showcase fresh new looks for Fall/Winter 2021-22.
34 Raspberry Plum The story behind a uniquely creative brand for girls.
38 Skiing in Color An exclusive interview with artist Lamont Joseph White.
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Contents
42 Snow Day
Staying stylishly warm in a winter wonderland.
44 Paade Mode Insights from the founder of a special line from Latvia.
48 Color Trends Inspiring combinations of seasonal shades and new hues.
54 Cheering Section Collegiate styling is a winning look.
56 Still on the Cutting Edge Celebrating the career of Rudy Ruffo, celebrity hairdresser and photographer.
60 Make New Friends But keep the old... one is silver and the other gold.
62 Heart of Gold A Belgian babywear company with design expertise and high-quality eco-fabrics.
64 Contacts Where to find what you see. Cover Painting by Lamont Joseph White lamontjosephwhite.com Email: hello@ljwstudio.com Instagram: @lamontjosephwhite
The World’s Most Unique Virtual Event in Children’s Fashion
Contact: T + 44 2030704013 +1 2396773485 E Eszti.mate@lepetitbimbo.com Instagram: @lepetitbimbo
05-06 JUNE 2021
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Inspiring Young Minds Buy One, Give One, Empower One
Promo琀ng Kindness through the Act of Giving
@pajamasforpeace pajamasforpeace.com
profiles
Kids à la Mode chats with Lindsay Erickson, Executive VP and Design Director of Andy & Evan. Our readers may be surprised to know that Andy and Evan are actually real people. Please tell us a brief history of the company’s founders and how the brand was created. We started small. At our first trade show Evan Hakalir (Founder and CEO) and I sold the line. This was after designing it, manufacturing it, and staying up all night to create a line card for it. We knew from that first show that we had something. Since then the company has grown exponentially. We have an excellent sales, design, and production team. They are amazing people who think on their feet and are incredibly creative. I always say we only hire good people at Andy & Evan and that has honestly been true so far. How has Andy & Evan evolved and expanded from its original concept of classically styled, tailored boys wear?
After our first trade show, I remember sitting at a bar with Evan as he excitedly talked about all the future categories and plans for design. He had big plans and I was excited to see them through. We may have started with a classically tailored boys’ line, but we knew that we would eventually create a full lifestyle brand. We have been fortunate to have a loyal customer following willing to explore and grow with us. What is your design background? Have you always designed children’s clothes? After graduating from F.I.T. I began my career in womenswear. I first interned in the design departments at Tracy Reese and David Rodriguez and then took a position at a sleepwear/lingerie company. At the same time, I created custom-made clothing pieces for a variety of clientele. When I met Evan, my career path shifted. He was looking for freelance help with his 10 | Kids à La Mode
custom-tailored shirt line and we automatically clicked. Our focus quickly shifted to the boys’ market and we created a line of classically tailored styles with a whimsical twist. We saw the void in the children’s market and had fun filling it. I am grateful for the shift in my career. This past year was a very challenging time for all businesses. And yet, I’ve heard that some children’s wear companies saw increased sales in 2020. What adaptions have Andy & Evan had to make due to the pandemic? Have any of the changes of these times proved to be positive changes? I think this past year has challenged us to rethink how we do a lot of things. We have learned more about communication, information sharing, and product presentations. There have been missteps along the way but we have come up with more ideas during this time than at any other time in our company’s history. We have shown product by lifestyle videos, 3D design, swatch book line cards, and of course
Zoom. The challenges have forced us to come up with new ideas and innovations. We have an extremely adaptable team which has helped us to keep shifting, learning, and growing during this unprecedented time. Please tell us about your company’s collection of kids’ face masks. We did a lot of research at the start to make sure we were achieving the best comfort and efficacy in woven masks. We knew our design team could create great prints and patterns but having the right protection and feel was important to us. We are proud that the product looks and feel great as well as being highly effective. The masks give us a platform to give back to the community. We donate as many as we sell to struggling schools, shelters, and families. Which countries outside of the US are the strongest markets for Andy & Evan? Do you have plans to increase your exposure to markets in Europe, South America and other regions? Kids à La Mode | 11
Andy & Evan is a global brand. Outside of the US, we currently sell in the UK, France, Mexico, Iceland, Spain, Japan, Korea, China, Taiwan, Canada, Australia, and several Central and South American countries. We plan to continue growing and expanding our footprint abroad. As a mother of three very young children, you must be both inspired and exhausted! How has your experience as a mother changed your outlook as a designer for babies and children? Has it increased your concern about environmentally safe products and production? Good question! I think about this quite a bit. I have an (almost) three-year old son and twin eight-month-old girls. They have absolutely influenced my every thought. I
have always cared about the product but now I look at every detail a little bit differently. I focus a lot on fabric hand-feel, content, closures, and garment testing among many other things. There is a running list constantly in my mind. I find myself often thinking about what we can do in this industry to better all of our little ones’ futures. We have already begun to explore upcycling, FSC, and other sustainable methods at Andy & Evan. I see us continuing down this path as a company and growing and learning more methods to better our industry. I challenge the stores here. They and the customer dictate the demand and help to push designers and manufacturers further. What are some important categories, fabrics and items from the Andy & Evan Fall/Winter 2021-22 collection? Fall 2021-22 has been interesting. We have seen a huge growth in our elevated knits categories. Soft sweaters in chenille, eyelash, and brushed cotton, Hacci [sweater knit] and Sherpa sweat sets, and buttery ribbed rompers have been key items for us. To our surprise, shirting and holiday dress has also stayed strong. The line was being shown in the midst of a pandemic. Buyers had to be a bit hopeful that school and life would resume as before and that people would be excited to dress again. 12 | Kids à La Mode
art & design
Showcasing our favorite finds at Maison & Objet Digital show. Mathy by Bols The Caravan bed, one of the bestsellers of Belgian furniture company Mathy by Bols, is an original and functional bed that suggests travel to escape everyday life. In the same idea as the other creative beds by the brand, designer Francois Lamazerolles innovates and delights with this atypical bed designed in the pleasing shape of a caravan. The Caravan bed encourages children to create their own universe in their bedrooms, imagining new adventures, dreaming of new destinations, playing and creating. Full of ingenious and practical details, the bed even comes with a customizable license plate!
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Patti Oslo Patti Oslo is a photographer and designer whose studio in Oslo, Norway makes safe, stimulating, adorable toys and accessories for little ones. Influenced as a child by her mother’s delicate crocheted items, her creations are made for families who want an enriching, eco-friendly playing experience combined with the simplicity of Nordic design. These products are all handmade by skilled artisans using traditional techniques, and organic cotton with no harmful chemicals or toxic dyes. As babies have sensitive skin, these organic toys are soft and safe for them to cuddle. All products are packed in sewed cotton bags which double as washing bags. Clean and safe for generations to come, Patti Oslo toys are helping to buid a better future for kids. Kids à La Mode | 15
Maison Deux design studio Maison Deux is a Dutch design studio by Woes and Pia Weinberg. Made of high-quality materials, these simple and iconic products all have a playful twist, making them perfect for kids rooms. The Maison Deux rug collection features super soft 100% New Zealand wool, is designed in Holland, and hand-tufted by artisans in India. These unique kid’s rugs have different levels of pile heights with carved accents which create a special 3D texture. This adds a sensory, fun element which brings the rugs alive. Some of the brand’s iconic rug designs include the ice cream rug, love rug, rainbow natural rug, leopard rug, tiny dog rug and the unforgettable eye rug!
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AFKliving Ten years ago, company founder Emmanuelle Toché was guided by her desire to create a home décor brand specializing in rugs. From the start customers appreciated the company’s colorful brand environment and its pure forms, combining utility and aesthetics. AFKliving rug collection fits well into all types of modern homes, with each collection referring to a trip linked to the ancestral know-how of that county’s culture. The feeling of well-being and a happy mood is characteristic of the brand. Naturally these characteristics make AFKliving rugs perfect for children’s rooms. The recently developed kids rug collection is made in Belgium. “Because children are creative, audacious, intuitive and passionate, we create the room of their dreams based on their imagination... with an uncluttered design that also pleases their parents.”
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Sergeant Paper Established in 2010, this Parisian art gallery and publisher of illustrations and graphics shows more than 800 art prints made by 60 carefully selected French and international artists. Sergeant Paper is now proud to launch their first collection dedicated to children, featuring the British artist Wolfnoodle. Artist Sammy Wolfnoodle draws most of her inspiration from vintage toys and playful fashion. Each artwork in the collection was first handpainted by the artist, and then printed on art paper in the company’s Parisian workshop in a limited edition of 300 copies, which are numbered and supplied with certificates of authenticity. This minimalist, playful and colorful series representing animals, characters and everyday objects is appealing to kids of all ages. By placing Wolfnoodle’s posters on the walls of their rooms, youngsters will quickly learn to recognize the characters or objects that the artist represents. What fun for you and your child, as you both build a whole new art world at home!
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Pana Pufa “Designed with love, crafted with passion.” That’s the motto of Pana Pufa, maker of distinctive home accessories that express comfort and beauty, character and uniqueness. All products are made by hand from natural, local materials of the highest quality. Made with traditional craftsmanship, the modern designs emphasize rich contrasts of texture and color. The line includes rugs, bedspreads, blankets, pillows, poufs and lampshades. They also create special projects for custom orders. What makes Pana Pufa really stand out is their use of ultra chunky yarn and thick weave, available in wool and a special cotton yarn filled with polyester fabric. The tactility and look of this thick yarn makes it especially appealing for products which would be a perfect choice for a child’s room.
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talking points
Monica Pigliacampo, founder and designer of Sol de Mayo, talks to Kids a la Mode about her beautiful brand of exclusive children’s clothing, soft-toys, accessories and artistic lamps. Please tell us a little about your history. How did you become interested in fashion, art and knitting? I was born to an Italian family in Argentina, and I spend my childhood in a little town of La Pampa, surrounded by nature. I cannot say precisely when my interest in fashion and arts was born, but I remember always creating different things, from clothes for my dolls using cuts of discarded fabrics, pottery with mud taken from my garden or sculpting bas-reliefs in the wall of my house's garage! My mother initiated me into the knitting techniques, and the possibility of creating different shapes from a simple piece of yarn was fascinating to me. I moved to Mar del Plata, a seaside city in the Buenos Aires
province, to follow my studies in Art school. Then, I started Industrial Design at the University, specializing in textiles. It was then I got a scholarship to continue my studies at the University of Catalunya Barcelona, and later a scholarship for my Master in Fashion and Textile at de Montfort University in England. During all these years, my passion for all textiles only rose. When did you start Sol de Mayo? What products did you start with… and how has the collection grown and changed? The idea to launch my own brand was growing in me little by little… after getting my Master's in England, I came back to Barcelona to work for the Inditex group. This allowed me to meet many skilled suppliers around the world, which would be a big help for the next step. After my daughter was born, I moved to France. I was puzzled by how hard it was to find cute, original yet non-chemical clothes for her, and realizing how difficult it was, I decided to take the leap and Sol de Mayo was born.
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I started creating knitwear collections to propose high-quality clothes made exclusively of natural materials, perfectly finished and carefully designed with special attention to details, without forgetting
about comfort, of course! The collections were targeted at kids but, little by little, babies’ clothes took a more important role. Later on, I introduced knitted accessories, and now the lighting! What type of yarn and dyes do you use? All the yarns we use come exclusively from the best quality of natural fibres: cashmere, silk, cotton, baby alpaca or linen. I get them from the places the unique fibres are collected, such as Peru for the alpaca or inner Mongolia for the cashmere. I do not use natural dyes in my clothing. The yarns used in my clothes are all produced under strict and ecoresponsible norms, which means that no harmful chemical substance is utilized in the process of production. For my lamps, I do use natural indigo dying.
Where are the products made? Please tell us about your design process and inspiration. The place of production depends on where the skilled artisans of each quality of fibre are located. The cashmere items are produced by a family-owned factory in Nepal. The baby alpaca and cotton products are instead made in Peru, by a fair-trade cooperative that helps craft-women to earn a living. The starting point of a new collection could come anywhere:
Moreover, concerned by the damages the textile industry has caused on our planet, I attempt to work with sustainable materials only. That is why I'm proposing more pieces made by alpaca yarn which, besides being sustainable, has unique hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties. On top of that, the plan for the next season is to introduce yarns that come from recycling, such as recycled cashmere, pure or blended. Kids à La Mode | 21
a piece of music, a movie, an image that can inspire me, but also a walk on nature. The places where I lived also influence my work. I’m naturally curious and I like to observe the world around me. Your “Fantastic Friends” crocheted dolls have such special personalities! The dolls’ colors are lovely: soft and sophisticated, yet child-like. Are the dolls an important part of your company? Do they coordinate with your kids clothing? Thank you! I enjoy it and I have a lot of fun developing toys! A new collection of cute dinosaurs is on the way, and I plan to develop new characters for the next season, always with a singular personality.
We are specialized in knitwear, and we propose outfits from babies to kids’ sizes. The size range starts from 3 months to 24 months old, but there are some models, such as sweaters The Fantastic Friends collection is created to coordinate with a or cardigans which can go up to 6-8 years old or more. The sweater knitted in baby alpaca quality as well, with any of the "Baby Essentials" are a kind of comfortable, timeless but friends from the collection. Kids love that! always stylish pieces. These pieces are absolute necessities, so we maintain them along the seasons. What sizes clothes do you offer? Are they all knitwear? What are “Baby Essentials”? Please tell us about your products for adults: accessories and home décor such as lamps. Your lamps are so beautiful and original! Are they hand-made? One-of-a kind? Which lamp was selected to be featured at Maison et Objet 2021? I started with the adult’s accessories following my friends' wishes. They wanted to wear the kid’s accessories! I introduced a range of scarves, beanies, gloves and bags, most of them handmade but always with the same quality requirements. Finally, the lamps. It can sound rather eclectic! But in the end, all this conversation is about a passion to create with threads, so it only makes sense to me that I'd follow that passion! I’m so glad you appreciate my work. Thank you! And yes, the lamps are handmade in my atelier in Nancy, France, also using exclusively natural materials such as linen, merino’s wool, jute, cotton, paper or leather cords to make unique pieces. 22 | Kids à La Mode
“A true blend of luxury with refined simplicity, that is the essence of Sol de Mayo.”
I am proud to be a brand selected by Maison et Objet for the M&O Digital Days sustainable edition 2021. I have the Aires lamp to thank for that. The New York magazine Metropolis also featured the Aires ceiling lamp in their selection and the trends forecasting agency Peclers Paris included our MINA bag, made by recycled silk and jute, in their presentation. Do you design lamps and home products especially for children? Do you have plans to add more products for kids, and to expand your doll and clothes collections? The lamps and home products are not only for children but also suitable for other spaces of the house such as the living room or bedroom. We also have throw blankets in baby alpaca or cashmere in our collection. And of course we are expanding our doll collection! New dolls are in the works and each season I am adding novelties to the clothing, accessories, and lighting collections!
Monica Pigliacampo Kids à La Mode | 23
looks
Company co-founder Soledad Romero tells Kids à la Mode about transposing Fernando Lemoniez’s creative universe to the world of girl’s fashion.
Please tell our readers about Fernando Lemoniez, the wellknown Spanish designer. Fernando Lemoniez has been into fashion from a young age. He opened a store in San Sebastian, his birth city, when he was very young, and since then he has been creating women’s fashion collections. In 1998, he moved to Paris and had the privilege of working at the Yves Saint 24 | Kids à La Mode
Laurent Haute Couture atelier, where he improved his knowledge of Haute Couture techniques. At the same time, he founded LEMONIEZ, his current brand. Besides women’s wear, LEMONIEZ has designed jewels, sunglasses, handbags, shoes, etc. under his own name or in collaboration with other brands. How did you begin to collaborate with him and create the children’s line Senorita Lemoniez?
We had been friends for a long time; we are also family, as I am married to his brother. After the birth of my children, two beautiful “senoritas” that are his nieces, we had the idea of this collaboration. The project was to transpose Fernando’s creative principles to the world of girls and teens fashion. The shapes of the line’s silhouettes are seemingly simple, yet exquisitely refined and artistic. What inspires the designer’s creations? Do the designs for the girl’s line follow the designs for the women’s line?
No, the collections are independent, although obviously they both follow the same creative principles. I think that Fernando’s knowledge of the great masters, his deep understanding of fabrics and his love for perfect patterns and impeccable execution allow him to create the special collections he presents every season. The apparent simplicity of the garments hides a delicate work of design and pattern construction. Fernando himself creates the most special patterns with the technique of moulage. I would like to underline that our garments are created in small
workshops in Spain, mainly in the Madrid area where we live, and the nearer regions. That allow us to control the production and to work very near our “petite mains,” which is what allows us to get the results we want. Please tell us about the fabrics: what are some favorite fabrics used, and where are the fabrics from? The search of fabrics is essential in the collections. Since the beginning we have been trying to use varied and glamourous fabrics that are not usual in the children’s wear world: mikados, taffetas, brocades, etc. Kids à La Mode | 25
They are part of our essence. Nevertheless, we are in the process of looking for more sustainable fabrics, which will probably imply some renunciations. The Fall/Winter 2021-22 collection features black, white and metallic fabrics, also a bold harlequin pattern. The idea of a meteorite streaking the sky, charging and giving off energy, is behind this collection.
It relies heavily on black and white, although flashes of color run through the collection to create the effect of light. Those colors that are structured in rhombuses inspired by Picassian pierrots, in luxurious and meticulously crafted garments; they are also presented in pleated fabrics illuminated with delicately patterned golden rays. They are the colors one could find just before some sunrises: various shades of blue, beiges, pinks, browns... the soft dawns Turner or Friedrich could have painted. The black and white styles explore numerous possibilities. In textures, we will find satins, organza, plumetis, jacquards, crepes, mikados and even equined knitted fabrics. Some dresses are loose and flowy, while others, in heavier fabrics, are more structured. The bows, one of the signatures of our brand, are here present in the form of ribbons, belts, foulards and ties.
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Covet International Awards is looking for interior design projects and product designs that clearly show how design modernizes craftsmanship, by reinterpreting and valuing the traditional arts & crafts, therefore maintaining their essence intact while offering them a role in the center stage of the contemporary world.
essential trends
Top Looks for the New Season
FABRIC FEST
Dolce & Gabbana
Patch it, don’t match it. Oeuf Anything goes! The do-it-yourself craze inspires a fun, home-made look starring mixed patterns, prints and plaids. Mix it up on voluminous tops; long tierred skirts; eyelet-trimmed dress; patch-pocket shirt and quilted vest. Crazy-quilt patterns have a vintage Americana feel, using calico prints, checks, dots and solid fabrics. Even knitwear joins the patchwork trend.
Tambere
Fun & Fun
Lulaland
Senorita Lemoniez 28 | Kids à La Mode
Raspberry Plum
Fall/Winter 2021/22
Marta Y Paula Pan Con Chocolate
Paade Mode
Il Gufo
Tambere Senorita Lemoniez
PETITE ARTISTE
Design inspiration from the atelier. Beaux Artes looks for today’s young creatives feature smock-like silhouettes in dresses and tops. Big collars with big bows bring attention to the top of these full, flowing styles. Ruffled yokes, patch pockets and a chic hat or beret set off the arty ambience.
Lulaland
Go with the flow fabrics include fine-wale corduroy, bias-cut flannel plaid and crystal-pleated cotton.
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essential trends
Ligne Noire
KNITWEAR EXRAORDINAIRE Spinning a fabulous yarn.
Knit pieces showcase an abundance of patterns, from cables and diamonds to stripes and plaids. Knots, purl stitches and mohair yarn add interesting texture, in color ranges from saturated to soft and muted. Novelty knit styles include funnel neck sweaters; 3-piece outfits for babies; patterned knit bag; decorative scarves as sweater accents.
Ermanno Scervino
Ermanno Scervino
Global Affairs Siviglia
Mayoral 30 | Kids à La Mode
Oeuf
Fall/Winter 2021/22 Fun & Fun
Street Monkey
Fun & Fun
Monnalisa
Byblos
FUZZY WUZZY
Teddy Bear fleece is cozy-cuddly. Kids will wrap themselves in the comfort of cocoon-style jackets, often with no closures and deep pockets.
Monnalisa Fun & Fun
New looks for Teddy fleece include hood with bear “ears”; cheerleader skirt and matching jacket; a jacket with bands of tri-colored faux fur. Chenille appliqué or textured print bears center simple fleece styles -- ready and waiting for cuddles. Kids à La Mode | 31
essential trends
TREE HUGGERS
Out of the house and into the woods. Rough and ready attire for outdoor adventures highlights plaid shirts, jeans and corduroy pants, knit caps. Something to lean on: the classic lumberjack shirt in wool or cotton, with wooden buttons and bias-plaid pockets. Stylishly hip hiking boots, hybrid sneakers and chunky knit socks are essential to the look.
Retour
Boboli Maan
Pan Con Chocolate
Maan
Pan Con Chocolate 32 | Kids à La Mode
Retour
Fall/Winter 2021/22 Lulaland
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada
Stella McCartney Oeuf Il Gufo
Dolce & Gabbana
PERENNIALS
Flowers are bigger than ever. Winter gardens are in glorious bloom all year ‘round, yielding lush floral prints and fun appliqués. When it comes to roses, the more the better! Oversized roses cover long dress, jacket and pants, even printed boots.
Yoedu
A colorful print depicts everything needed to plant a garden: shovel and pitchfork, gardening gloves, watering can and plenty of sunshine! Kids à La Mode | 33
talking points
Alexsandra Matthews, founder and designer of Raspberry Plum, gives insight about her unique, creative and completely original brand. It seems that you approach your designs in an artistic way rather than following typical fashion trends. Are you an artist yourself? Which artists and periods of art most inspire you? I’m not an artist, I’m a designer. For my B.A. I studied fashion design in London. I got my M.A. in textile design. You can see the impact of textiles in my work, the prints and embroideries. Color is extremely important to me. The Ballet Russes and the artist Miro influenced some of my collections. But I’m usually inspired not by an artist but an era: modern art from the Fifties to the Seventies or even earlier, from the Thirties to the Seventies. I’ve done a Dada collection with eyes, words, faces. I like to move on for every collection, each collection is so different. It is a reflection of me, I get bored very easily and like to do different things. I learn a hell of a lot from doing research for the collections – I’m so hungry for the arts. I reach out to different artists, to a play, a film. It’s extremely exciting.
Alexsandra Matthews
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How did the idea for Raspberry Plum come about? I began working in womens wear mostly as a textile designer for lots of different brands. When I came back to London and did freelance womens wear, mainly textiles, I became bored. You end up sitting behind a computer or drawing and painting behind a desk. It wasn’t very versatile, I like to do lots of different skills. I decided to branch out. Womens wear was over-saturated. The childrenswear industry seemed nicer, it wasn’t as crowded as it is now. I thought I could do more creatively. You have to follow your heart, follow your passion. If you’re bored and it’s not what you like that’s going to be visible in your work. Life is too short to do what you don’t enjoy doing. When I started doing this I didn’t think I was going to make a lot of money and sell all over the world. I did it because I had something to say. I would like children to be influenced by it in a positive way and I wanted to do what I love.
workshops in Serbia. Serbia is one of the biggest exporters of raspberries and plums in the world. My brand’s name comes from that. Serbia is very beautiful and I go back often. The whole manufacturing thing is about suporting the community. We employ nine people to do sampling and cutting the fabrics and so forth. Serbia was once part of
I’m very hands-on and still do all my own pattern cutting. I worked with a pattern cutter and realized that when I do it myself I get inspired. That makes sense to me, doing the pattern cutting myself. I get lots of applications from designers, but I think, design? I’m doing all that by myself, I’m not giving that away! Does the name Raspberry Plum have a meaning? The name Raspberry Plum comes from Serbia. I’m Serbian and always had some connection with my roots. I came to London at age twelve but spent every summer there with my grandmother. I always wanted to tie my past to what I do and where I come from. My family acquired some manufacturing
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Yugoslavia which had a big textile industry. I wanted to use those workshops to promote them. All the stock we don’t sell in the store we donate to Serbia’s Novak Djokovic Foundation which builds schools, nurseries and educational facilities. They’re a fantastic organization. We donate all our unsold stock to them and they give it away to children from impoverished backgrounds. Novak Djukovic is a world champion tennis player who held the title longer than anyone else. My mom was a big fan of tennis and Djukovic… and when I met him she was over the moon! I work with the NDF charity and also with another charity that works with women in halfway houses.
I’ve been following the line for some time. Each collection has some surprises! There’s a lot of fantasy, whimsy and humor in your designs. I try not to follow any trend and I stay away from trends. Our slogan is, “Why be a follower when you can be a pioneer of style?” It reflects my personality, I’ve always stood out from the crowd and done my own thing. It’s important to build the confidence of children so that they can be themselves. I try to do that in all my collections. I used to be a very shy child and my mom dressed me very differently from the other kids. They used to make fun of me but it gave me a lot of confidence to be different from other children. That really stuck with me and that is the impulse I follow in the way I design. My “eye and face” collection was Picasso-inspired, I think that’s when we started doing well. Ours was an organic brand and it was a very different style. After three or four seasons we started to rebrand. All-organic was limiting to creativity and color. I thought, we’re going to be ethical whaever we’re doing, we don’t have to be 100% organic. I think as long as you do your best, everyone can make a difference. You do your best. I don’t feel pressure to be 100% all natural and organic. 36 | Kids à La Mode
of Americana combining lots of fringe anddifferent patches. A recent collection was inspired by Miro, now I’m moving on to rodeo. It’s kind of a little bit edgy for children’s clothing so I made some velvet suits with embroidery for the shop windows. If I find children’s shoes that I like, I find them in the streets, platform shoes and such. Tights are a big part of our collection. Obviously, the pandemic has been extremely hard on everyone both personally and professionally. However, for myself there have been some changes in my life which I hope to continue after the pandemic is over… such as living at slower pace, spending more time in nature etc. Are there some things that have changed this year that you would like to continue into the future?
What are the themes of your Fall/Winter 2021/22 collection? The new collection is called Prairie Rodeo. It’s inspired by country and western music, vintage country and western and the way they used to look in the Fifties and Sixties. Nudie suits and Rhinestone Cowboy combined with the toughness of Little House on the Prairie mixed with a kind of Victoriana. You’ll see both themes running through the collection. Patchwork was inspired by American quilting. Even looking through my past collections you will see a lot
I’d like to forget the whole year! I was taking care of my mom and toddler, but when you run your own business, pandemic or not, you never have enough time. But now there’s no time for friends, no relief, I don’t have the full enjoyment of life. Being away from family and friends is not the natural way to live, we’re social beings. People are really suffering. We’re just not living in the natural way, the way we were meant to. Many people are suffering financially through this, mentally too. I hope at the end of this something positive will happen, people will want to go out, dress up, be fancy. But there’s something more important than going out to shop for material things. Western society puts a money value on everything, including friendship and relationships. You can’t put a price on human relationships. I hope the world becomes more spiritually aware, that is my hope and my dream. Think originally and differently and don’t be afraid to stand out and stand up for what you believe in. Kids à La Mode | 37
art & design
g n i Ski lor o C In Artist LAMONT JOSEPH WHITE
has climbed many mountains, personally and professionally, in his life, Here’s our exclusive look at his exciting new collection Skiing In Color. By Janet A. Jacobs When last we met you were a New York-based artist. How did you get into snow sports? My reason was that I fell in love with Utah and the mountains. I fell in love with Park City specifically. My wife and I first visited in 2000 and continued to go back every year from 2000 to 2012 to ski and visit family. In 2012 we decided to see if we could live there or not. We ended up staying. We both enjoy the mountains and the lifestyle and the activities that go along with it. Our town in Park City has an extensive trail system. Just getting out in the first few minutes of walking on the trail makes you feel alive, you feel a change in your body. Your mood starts to lift and it’s a healthy lifestyle. It’s pretty special. Is it more the mountains than the snow sports that sent you there? My favorite things on the mountains are snowboarding, hiking and biking. I still skied in the Northeast, but Park City is the area I fell in love with and I felt that I could transition to the area. We kept thinking about transitioning west for several years. When our kids graduated high school, we didn’t need to stay in New Jersey any longer so we made the move in September, 2012. Your absolutely wonderful project called Skiing In Color involves people of color skiing, which apparently is something of a rarity. Let’s talk about what inspired the paintings. My attraction to painting snow sports was for personal enjoyment… for the joy of being on the mountains. And, after many, many years of skiing you sort of take it for granted that there are not many people of color up there on the mountain but you just focus on your goals to improve and have fun. You do get some comments, some looks, nothing that’s overt, nothing that crosses the line to anything that gets dangerous or anything like that, thankfully. In this case, I wanted to highlight the awareness of us being an extreme minority on the slopes, a place I love to be. 38 | Kids à La Mode
I wanted to celebrate the blacks that are on the mountain but also invite those who are not there yet. With respect to the black and brown people you see in the collection it’s a celebration as well as an invitation. I’m happy that the celebration is appreciated by many. As for the invitation, I’m now part of a conversation to help improve the diversity and inclusion in the mountain spaces. The gap can be bridged if one desires the experience. Once you’ve had two or three experiences on the mountain you get hooked and you never want to turn back. That’s certainly been my experience. I knew that while I was painting black skiers in a way, I was just painting skiers. But once leaders in the snow sports industry had seen my collection, I started hearing words like, it’s powerful and can you be on this panel or discussion group? I realized this conversation was part of a broader conversation going on. When I had some longtime skiers thank me for this representation, in a way my goal was reached because representation matters. People who are normally represented, they just take it for granted because they’re always there. But as black and brown people being a minority in the culture we push through, we do what we want to do but we are aware of the slightness of our representation. So, when it gets amplified that’s meaningful for people. It’s kind of like the saying, “if you can see it, you can be it”, whether it’s for an adult or child. That’s the sort of larger picture of the collection.
Last year, as the world became aware of Black Lives Matter, the George Floyd killing… the collection couldn’t be timelier. When did you start the paintings? The paintings were begun in January 2020. They were unrelated to the killings of Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor and George Floyd. These tragic deaths all took place after I’d begun or conceptualized Skiing In Color. I just think that circles back to the fact that paintings that feature representation, inclusion and diversity are not trends. Highlighting them is an opportunity but it’s also an awareness that you have as a black- or brown-skinned person anyway. It does get mentioned to me that it’s very timely but the timing coincidentally lines up with the protests, with this sort of social awareness that’s going on across the country. It’s a double-edged sword because people are certainly more open to deeper understanding, to learn more about how black and brown people live, think, move and breathe in life, but at the same time there’s probably some people who don’t ask me those questions and assume I’m riding a racial awareness trend. And that’s fine if that’s the way they choose to think. Kids à La Mode | 39
The worldwide interest in those events will expand the audience for your work. In particular, in the ski industry, manufacturers, magazine publishers, non-profits, resorts and hotels, all these different types of organizations are now admitting that they could have done more, they just accepted that not many black and brown people were on the slopes. There have been times when the ski industry made marketing attempts to attract people of color but they’ve been short-lived. There’s been no persistence in it. We have to make it very intentional from here on to have more people of color on the slopes and not take our foot off the gas pedal. I’m now part of the Inclusion Committee at Ski Utah, which has been a great honor. My artwork will be featured in some resorts and museums in Utah. I’m getting calls from academies and non-profits that help kids to see themselves in these spaces. I’m proud of the non-profit opportunities as well. Thankfully, manufacturers are using me now to put people of color on their clothing, which feels good. I honestly didn’t see any of these opportunities coming. My paintings were initially a personally inspired project. Now, Also, what began as Skiing In Color is broadening out into I’m hoping to make people feel invited, enlightened and an out of doors theme. The outdoor spaces, in general, run represented. across all the seasons. So, I’m actually going to be featuring some more warm weather sports: hiking, trail-running and things like that within my artwork. I love to hike and mountain bike as well, so who knows what will be created next. I think, you and I, Janet, we want to know what people want, particularly if it helps them, if it makes them feel good. What kind of clothing makes them feel good, what kind of patterns, what kind of fashion. That’s where we come from, commercially, and it all taps into the same source to uplift. Style or fashion, in a sense, is related to skin color because that’s something we wear at all times. What are some of the things that have evolved or are evolving from the work, such as commercial projects and upcoming works? For example, you had mentioned Mount Noire…
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Mount Noire is a group of five women skiers in London, five professional women who’ve been skiing for a number of years. We had already been following each other on Instagram. One day I got an email from CNN who wanted to interview me for an article. CNN is international and this branch happened to be based out of London. Of course, I said sure, absolutely. The article was primarily about Mount Noire and they gave me a paragraph and a photograph for which I was very thankful for. At that point Mount Noire and I connected and we’re going to be doing some merchandise together. They’re looking to grow their brand and they are fantastic ladies. So, we’re pretty excited about that. I’ve got some other brands in the U.S. that are already established that I’m going to do some sublimation printed tops for. I’m also working with a journalist who’s written for
Outside magazine and National Geographic. We’re going to be working and collaborating together featuring pioneers of color in the outdoor spaces. I’m working with some resorts that are going to be featuring my work. I’m having conversations with a major magazine in the snow sports industry that wants me to work on a feature article or cover, we haven’t determined yet. All these things are coming down the pike in 2021. What other brands and organizations are interested in using your work?
invitation to a phenomenal experience where we are an extreme minority. I’m basically exposing something that I live with and as it turns out, others live with it, as well. You do get a bit of pushback, people who say, oh why are you bringing color into things? That’s to be expected and people have the right to feel that way. I just don’t. That’s not the life I live, I live a life where color does matter and like I say, it’s important to me that color is seen and celebrated. What I’ll say quite often is, see color, but it’s what we do with it that information that matters. Let’s celebrate our differences… after all, that’s how we grow.
I’ve been contacted by several brands, some are clothing brands, others are gear-oriented brands. Initially, clothing seems to be the first opportunities, but I’ve got some more gear-oriented brands, that sponsor professional athletes, and we’re thinking about ways that we can coordinate or include my artwork into those partnerships. In some cases, my fashion illustration skills are being utilized, so that’s exciting. So, style is very involved with the activity on the slopes and mountain spaces. There’s a non-profit based in South Boston I’m speaking with of late. One of the things they do is bring inner city kids outdoors. I currently work with a non-profit called Hoods to Woods in Brooklyn, I have a piece of my artwork dedicated to them on the website and give a piece of the of the sales to them. The National Brotherhood of Skiers, another non-profit, they’ve been around since 1972. I’ve donated some artwork and merchandise, in this case tee-shirts, where a part of the sales goes to the NBS. Hoods to Woods mentors through snowboarding to inner city kids. NBS mentors through snow sports and outdoor activities in general. One of their goals is to contribute to scholarships for young athletes who aspire to Olympics and international competitions. This organization has been around for almost fifty years. I’m eager to partner with these non-profits who are already doing great work. Your artwork is the right vehicle, there’s so much joy in it, so much positivity. That’s what’s so good about it. Thank you. It’s all positive. My initial thought was black skiers, and what does that mean? It’s the joy, the exuberance, the excitement that I experience on the mountain. I want to be part of this conversation even if there’s just one person who finds it uplifting to see themselves represented. I go to the ski towns and see the employees, people on the slopes, artwork in the galleries and I just don’t see enough of diversity and inclusion. I’m just highlighting the joy and
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looks
Tambere
SNOW DAY School is out... fun is in!
Why stay in the house when there’s a winter wonderland to explore? Kids will be stylishly warm in this season’s selection of quilted coats, fuzzy jackets and cozy knits. EMC
Monnalisa
Knot
The Nice Fleet
Billie Blush
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The Nice Fleet
Fun & Fun
Lapin
Katamino The Nice Fleet offers a gorgeous group of hand-printed inflatable snow tubes, made of cold-resistant, recyclable PVC material. Each snow tube is delivered in a matching box that includes a repair kit in case of puncture. Lapin The Nice Fleet
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talking points
Interview with company owner Linda Raituma, by Janet Jacobs
I remember the first time I discovered Paade Mode at Pitti Bimbo. Having spent three days at the show, I had already seen hundreds of brands. However, your collection stood out as one of the most beautiful, truly original lines I had seen Over the following years, I’ve enjoyed watching the evolution of Paade Mode and your continuing success. Please tell our readers how and why you created the company. I joined the fashion industry ten years ago. Prior to that, I was a successful development, marketing and sales manager for leading financial institutions. At the same time, I always had a dream of starting my own manufacturing company. New, challenging decisions coincided with the birth of my second child, daughter Emilija. The field of fashion was a completely random choice that now seems to be a part of me. I can no longer imagine my life without working on collections. At first, I only had a huge desire and willingness to learn, a small amount of personal financial means. The first two collections were created for the Latvian market, I cooperated with Latvian designers, tested models, created a brand. I created the third collection by myself, presented it in Paris, which was followed by rapid global growth. 44 | Kids à La Mode
I know that I have been very lucky in the Paade Mode journey, both with the team, the partners and fashion enthusiasts around the world. Creativity, self-discovery, fashion studios, traveling, getting to know new cultures, languages, long working hours – dreaming with open eyes. From a small, fashionable country to many unknown countries, we have been able to create a globally Linda Raituma successful brand. I’m sorry to admit that I know very little about your home country of Latvia. How have the country’s cultural traditions and resources helped shape Paade Mode? Latvia is a very small, beautiful and traditional country. We are proud of the legacy
left by our ancestors – folklore, traditions, ethnographic costumes, historical benefits – fantastic Art Nouveau architecture. But the main inspiration in my collections I find in Latvian nature. Latvia is one of the most forest-rich countries in the world. We have rivers, lakes, the sea, four fantastic seasons, in their most beautiful manifestations. White, snowy winters, orange-yellow autumns, when the sun alternates with rain and wind, warm and sunny summers, spring, waking nature, flowers, buds. Almost half of the Latvian state border is formed by sandy beaches of the Baltic Sea. Nature is freely available to us, in a short drive from big cities. Inspiration, natural calm and joy of life at every step! At the same time, we are also a cultural superpower – the painter Mark Rothko, ballet dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov and such major figures of classical music as Mariss Jansons, Kristine Opolais, Elīna Garanča and others were born here and developed world-class talent. The fabrics of Paade Mode are always very special. Fabric and yarn research is one of the most exciting stages in building a collection. Because then your creativity meets the performance of many other creative teams. The fabrics used in our collections are produced in Europe, mainly in Italy, Portugal and Spain. Each collection begins with an idea, followed by work on a mood board – gathering colors, textures, motifs inspiration. And then we are ready to meet the collections of our suppliers. Each collection features original Paade prints, embroidery and knitting patterns. I'm a fan of different textures and color games, so our collections are always rich and varied with a variety of fabrics – from fine, airy chiffons,
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What are some of the special details you use to add an almost-couture look to the clothes? In the Paade Mode collections, we try to create clothing that is important in its own right. But at the same time, we create most diverse combinations that complement each other, creating a unique and eye-catching look. The core value of our brand is the development of a child's personality, that is free from prejudice, open to experimentation and giving the opportunity to feel yourself. Clothes should be easy to care for, they should be easy to adjust for an event or occasion, they should be modern and timeless at the same time so that they can be handed over to a sister or brother, or even to future children. Embroidery is made according to a drawing -- first in watercolor, then with embroidery machines, a result that is as close as possible to them is achieved. I love to use costume piping, to highlight the ilhouette, details with contrasting, underlining lines. Our silhouettes are simple, ascetic. Metallic details or fabric serve the purpose only to add extra mood, without exaggeration. I love to combine layers, to mix and match details, to play. That's why especially the winter collections are my wonderland. Combining things, colors the way hildren would do, who are not forced to follow stereotypes or classic standards. This is exactly what makes the Paade Mode brand special. soft silk to 3D-feeling fabrics with volume, linen, wool, thick and warm knits. We are experimenting with the latest technologies, such as seamless knitwear, which has already become our signature element. And, of course, a very important precondition for the selection of raw materials is the sustainable production approach of their producers, compliance with our requirements for the protection of natural and labor resources. Responsible attitude towards each of the production functions and processes, zero waste and zero stock principles as well as responsible attitude towards product and design material selection makes sustainability as one of our core values. 46 | Kids à La Mode
The past year was certainly a difficult one for everybody. How and where are you currently selling Paade Mode? It has been a year of challenges, and challenges that have made business feel like surviving a school exam every day. If you have been tidy, have studied well, work a lot and do extra things, you will probably pass the exam. I am grateful that this has been a good year for Paade Mode, we have not only fulfilled all the promises and orders given above, but also have been able to grow in new markets. Our wholesale takes place in a classic, but very efficient way, working personally and individually with each client,
providing also online presentations as needed. We have prepared excellent and easy-to-use sales materials – both look book and product book, with various types of photos, videos; also available to customers are samples of fabrics and knitwear. During the FW21 season, our collection was also presented at Pitti Connect.
And especially in conditions of uncertainty we can learn a lot from this wild part of our nature, taking strength and optimism from wild berries. Keeping in mind that both, humans and berries, can grow even stronger when harsh environment surrounds us.
Continuing on with Paade Mode’s signature style, so that And now you’ve added loungewear to your line. every occasion is tended to and to insure a complete and well-rounded wardrobe, the collection is fulfilled with a Each collection is a healthy balance between technological mix between romantic prints, original embroideries, eyeachievements and the handwork of domestic producers. catching colors and sophisticated ease. It offers the magic of All production is handmade and based in Northern Europe layering and is the ultimate mix and matcher. Alternatively, working with the best tailors and other craftsmen and using the collection features a conglomeration of contrasting only the highest quality fabrics. The brand promotes mixing fabrics, mixing delicate fabrics with resilient knits and and matching couture with high street fashion elements sumptuous silks with cool and elegant cuts. while being an extension of kid’s imagination – wild, free and full of passion. Paade Mode collections always include leisure, casual, comfortable clothes. Also, in this collection you will find a rich seamless knitting line, knitted corduroy track suit, PJ style blouses, pants, etc. The materials used are of high quality -- organic cotton, the best merino wool, viscose, silk. We have not changed the proportion of these clothes in the collection, they are a permanent part of the collection and are created for customers who like to feel comfortable both at home and abroad, the excellent quality of the raw material helps to ensure a convincing street style. They can be perfectly combined with more classic clothes -- jackets, jackets, coats. Please talk about your Fall/Winter 2021-22 collection “Wildberries Secret.” What does the theme represent? What was the inspiration? Paade Mode’s home country Latvia is unique for its forests that are welcoming everyone to take a walk, explore nature and search for treasures of nature. Each summer we disappear into the woods, enjoying its rhythm and ease, picking up berries and mushrooms and teasing each other about our blueberry-colored mouths and teeth. These wild berries -- strawberries, blueberries, rowanberries, cranberries and many more. Small, tenacious, special, delicious and super healthy. Smooth, sweet and sour, juicy in every bite. Bold colors, ideal shapes. Food for the soul. Bringing rich flavors and textures to our modern life. What is the secret of wild berries? The harsher the conditions, the more valuable they grow. These berries are able to make you more organized, cure your headache, brighten your smile, reduced risk of cancer, serve as antioxidant and provide you with many more things. Kids à La Mode | 47
color trends
DOWN TO EARTH Staying grounded in a nature-inspired palette of browns and green. Bleu Carrement
Tambere
Maison Deux
Magil Oeuf
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Fall/Winter 2021-22 Paade Mode Pan Con Chocolate
Stella McCartney
Fun & Fun
Patti Oslo
Sticky Lemon
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color trends
SOUFFLE´
Whipping up a fluffy selection of all-season pastels. Mac Ilusion
Pan Con Chocolate Amaya
Simonetta Tutto Piccolo
Maan
Ermanno Scervino
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Fall/Winter 2021-22 Eirene
Monnalisa
Siviglia
Maan
Yukob
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color trends
AUTUMN SKY
Blue hues from radiant to deep navy set off Fall leaf shades of orange, rust and wine.
Lapin
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada Maan
Aletta Fun & Fun
Tutto Piccolo
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4funkyflavours
Siviglia
Fall/Winter 2021-22 Knot
4funkyflavours
Boboli
NoNo
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looks
Back to school styles never looked so good.
Lapin Maan
Dolce & Gabanna
Fracomina
Siviglia
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Stella McCartney
Dolce & Gabanna
Byblos
a
Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Kids
Simonetta
Philosophy Di Lorenzo Serafini Kids
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How did you learn to cut hair? I had to go to school, CBS Beauty School in New York. My first job was at Franks Executive Suite, a little salon in the Bronx. I was there nine months and then moved on to Enrico Caruso on Park Avenue. I was there about a year and a half and then the Revlon Salon closed down. All the hairdressers from Revlon Salon came to Enrico Caruso. We were all sitting around doing nothing. So one of my friends handed me a dime and said, ‘Go to the pay phone and call Kenneth, he’ll hire you immediately.’ I called Kenneth and he told me to come in and the manager hired me on the spot. Kenneth’s salon was on 54th Street, aound the corner from Madison Avenue, it was in a five-story carriage house. We had to wear suits. Kenneth’s was the home of Marilyn Monroe. Kenneth did Jackie Kennedy’s hair, he was with her at the inauguration, he did her hair for that. He did others like Lauren Bacall, Katherine Hepburn. I also did Katherine Hepburn’s hair. Did you cut Jackie Kennedy’s hair? No, I was with her practically every day but I never cut her hair. Who did? Kenneth, and also a guy named Jay up on the 4th floor. Caroline Kennedy and John John, they adored me. I adored them. At Kenneth’s, it was five stories, you could look down into the ground floor and see two cashiers working. I’d take John John up to the 4th floor, he loved to fly paper planes from there. We’d make the planes and he’d throw them down, trying to hit the cashiers on the head. He’d be laughing hysterically. Caroline had a little crush on me. One day she came into the room with a Brownie camera and she took a picture of me and laughed and ran upstairs. Years went by and one day when she was a grown woman I saw her on Madison Avenue. I said, “Caroline, I don’t know if you remember me but I was a hairdresser at Kenneth’s, and one day you took a picture of me. I would love to have that picture.” She said, “Give me your phone number,” and I gave her my number but I never heard from her. [laughs] I left Kenneth’s after ten years. He was great to me, he gave me a hug. He always told me, “Anytime you want to come back, you’re here!” I opened my own salon on 58th Street across from the Essex House, I was there for ten years. The building was sold so all the professional people had to move out. So I went back to Kenneth. How did you get into photograpy shoots? When I went to work for Enrico Caruso he took me under his wing. He always did the Clairol Box Covers. He took me with him and I started working on them too. We would set hair with rollers and I would wrap the hair in lamb’s wool, one roller to the next. We did it so there were no clip marks on the hair. That’s why the box covers looked so beautiful. Then when I went to Kenneth’s I was there two weeks and he called me up to his office and said, “I’m sending you off to Glamour magazine.” I never really did a magazine shoot before. Kenneth said, “Just go, you can do
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How did you come to be doing hairdressing for kids on TV and the movies? I worked on the Huck Finn movie, that was in Natchez, Mississippi. I had a close relationship with [comedian] Joan Rivers. She was the guest host on the Johnny Carson show many times and I was there practically every time. I cut her daughter Melissa’s hair when she was four. I used to sit with Barbara Walters and Joan, they were best friends, their kids were about the same age. So I’d be in the kitchen cutting hair, with the two little girls, Barbara and Joan. I got many jobs for Axe products, their deodorants, hair products… I did their commercials. I’ve done a lot of commercials with Margaux Hemingway, I did the Babe ads for her, Faberge. You designed a special haircut for an Olympic athlete.
the work.” I did it and two or three months later the issue came out. All the editors were looking for new names and there was Rudy Ruffo. They saw the work and they booked me on Bride magazine, and then Seventeen magazine, Mademoiselle, Women’s Day, Harper’s Bazaar, Child magazine. Every magazine I was working for came from that one job Kenneth sent me out on. I did the hair for hundreds and hundreds of magazines. Are there special considerations for working with kids? When it comes to kids’ haircuts, they’re all over the place, you can give them a great haircut but you can’t give them the kind of haircut you would give an adult. And of course you can’t do certain things you can do with an adult, you don’t want them to look too old. So many clients, so many of my friends and family, always wanted me to do their kids’ first haircut. I did a million first haircuts. I did the kid’s hair for Bamberger’s [department store] catalogs with Barbara Campbell, a leading child photographer and a dear friend of mine. I also did Simplicity [sewing] pattern drawings. I drew the hair on the drawings. They would tell me, “When a woman turns the page, we want her eye to go to the dress, not the hair. We don’t want you to do glamor hair, no ponytails or pigtails sticking out.” We had to be very careful about that, it had to be very simple so the eyes didn’t go to the hair. 58 | Kids à La Mode
I was Olympic ice skating medalist Janet Lynne’s hairdresser. She was 15 years old if I’m not mistaken. The president of Bergdorf Goodman who sponsored her for the Sapporo Olympics in Japan brought her to me to get a new haircut. I cut her hair so it would just spin around her and never go in her eyes. I watched the Olympics live that night and saw a haircut that I
created. The haircut was a big hit. Janet and I have remained very close lifelong friends to this day. You also worked on the MTV Awards. This was when I was called The Traveling Hairdresser. I got a full page in the New York Post: “Traveling Hairdresser Lives on the Cutting Edge.” So I’m traveling through New York with my backpack. All my equipment was in it. There were a couple of different salons I would line up with, set up in advance, walk in, use the chair and leave. I was on 58th Street by the Flagler Hotel, there was a salon there. I was cutting this woman’s hair and she said, “Rudy, have you done anything interesting lately?” I said “Yeah, I just did Darryl Hall, Hall and Oates and Elvis Costello, for a show. “I was packing up and this other woman who was getting a manicure said, “Did I just hear you say you were doing hair for a show? I work for Don Ohlmeyer, he’s in Production. We’re going to have the 1st MTV Awards. Would you be interested in coordinating the whole show?” I said, sure! I went up to the office and got the job. I had to hire six hairdressers and six makeup people. After the show aired I got letters from hairdressers all over the world. The 1st MTV Awards, a big thing. And I did the hair. Madonna was there but I didn’t do her hair. I did Cyndi Lauper, who was in the show, and all the others. I did the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th MTV Awards. Then
everybody got fired, the cameramen, everybody, because Dick Clark bought the show and they had their own crew. About 12-13 years later I got rehired. But to do those first four shows was incredible. Now you’re experiencing an exciting journey into photography. I just got a new camera, I’m really into photography. I was always into photography. On shoots I would watch the photographers, watch them do the lighting. That’s how I learned. I learned from some great photographers. There’s so much you can do with Photoshop. It got me through the Covid year, learning Photoshop, I learned so much. I would like more work from photography-- I don’t just do fashion, I do interiors, macro. I’ll do anything that comes my way as long as it’s good. I’m up there in age now, I’m 77. My wife asked me, “How does it feel to be 77?” I said, “It’s an honor.” Kids à La Mode | 59
looks
Luckyboysunday Luckyboysunday
Jey Cat
Paade Mode
Global Affairs Maan
Pan Con Chocolate Patti Oslo 60 | Kids à La Mode
Yukob
Sol de Mayo
Global Affairs
Nines d’Onil
Sol de Mayo
Oeuf
Maan
Retour
Manilla Grace
Sol de Mayo
Global Affairs
Fun & Fun
Kids à La Mode | 61
HEART OF
A heart for muted colors, minimal prints and organic textile. When it comes to shaping the children’s universe, designers Liz and Dirk know best. They’ve been dressing children for over twenty-five years. Their new label offers a combination of timeless apparel for children ages zero to four years and organic home textiles in their search for finding the right balance between quality, comfort, sustainability, and a modern lifestyle. Heart of Gold, formerly known as Gold, is designed with children, their parents, and the world they inhabit in mind. The song “Heart of Gold” by Neil Young provides the perfect mission statement: “I want to live — I want to give.” With a deep understanding that we have to take care of our planet, the creative duo pays close attention to longevity and high-quality eco-fabrics. Materials and colors are handpicked in a small atelier in Portugal in close collaboration with artisans specializing in bio-cotton. 62 | Kids à La Mode
Slow fashion is about creating durable and timeless pieces that go together well. When garments are made to last, they are perfect to be passed down. According to Liz and Dirk, both parents and graphic designers, style is about mixing and matching and combining new pieces with older ones. Due to their qualitative designs, dressing your children becomes consciously, yet stylishly, wonderfully simple. Inspiration for the collections comes from nature and emotion. Parents like to surround their newborns with love, warmth, and tenderness. That is why the brand’s signature style is defined by soft fabrics, a distinct color palette of muted hues, and minimal prints. By adding organic textiles to babywear, parents can create an intimate environment for their little ones, both at home and on the road. Heart of Gold is committed to expanding the children’s playful universe. For the first time, Heart of Gold has added knitwear to their Fall/Winter 2021/22 collection. This is a nice addition to the line that further enhances the beautiful colors and fabrics of this collection. Sponge, sweat & striped jersey are the main fabrics used, forming the basis for a wonderful mix and match. All items made from the best organic cotton available. Kids à La Mode | 63
Contacts 4FunkyFlavours 4funkyflavours.eu AFKliving afkliving.com Andy & Evan andyandevan.com Boboli boboli.com Carly Michelson carlym.carbonmade.com Covet International Award covetawards.com Dolce & Gabanna dolcegabanna.com Ermanno Scervino ermannoscervino.com Fracomina fracomina.it Fun & Fun showroom21.us Global Affairs globalaffairs.nl Heart Of Gold heartofgold.be Kidding kidding.fr Kids à la Mode kidsalamodemagazine.com Knot knotkids.com
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Lamont Joseph White lamontjosephwhite.com Lapin lapinhouse.com Le Petit Ma Bimbo lepetitbimbo.com Lightree lightree.kr Ligne Noire lignenoire.com Luckyboysunday luckyboysunday.dk Lulaland lulaland.net Maan maan.be Maison & Objet maison-objet.com Maison Deux maisondeux.com Mathy by Bols mathy-by-bols.be Mayoral mayoral.com Monnalisa monnalisa.com Oeuf oeufnyc.com Paade Mode paademode.com Pajamas for Peace pajamasforpeace.com Pan Con Chocolate panconchocolate.com Playtime iloveplaytime.com Printsource New York printsourcenewyork.com Raspberry Plum raspberryplum.com Retour retourjeans.com Rick Celano rickmanart.com Rudy Ruffo rudyruffophotography.com Senorita Lemoniez lemoniez.com Sergeant Paper sergeantpaper.com Showroom 21 showroom21.us Sol de mayo sol-mayo.com Sticky Lemon stickylemon.nl Stones and Bones stonesandbones.com Studio Bosch studiobosch@xsforall.nl Tambere tambere.kr The Nice Fleet thenicefleet.com Tutto Piccolo usa.tuttopiccolo.com Yuko-B yuko-b.com
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ORIGINAL AND ARCHIVAL TEXTILE DESIGN COLLECTIONS FOR FASHION AND HOME
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JANUARY 13 + 14, 2013
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