INTERVIEWS

MUNICH FABRIC START/BLUEZONE

Munich 25 — 27 January 2022 munichfabricstart.com

PROMISING PROSPECTS FOR THE INDUSTRY The upcoming edition of Munich Fabric Start will hopefully be held in the “usual broad scope and depth”, according to its Managing Director Sebastian Klinder, who is looking forward to January with confidence, although he is still well aware of how unpredictable the situation is.

INTERVIEW CHERYLL MÜHLEN

After a long enforced break, Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone will finally be returning as a physical event. How did you experience the comeback and what stands out most in your mind?

It was definitely the most dynamic and intense year in our company history! We planned a lot, revised every last square metre and found new solutions. We also had to reassess or discard some of our plans, develop hygiene concepts and work on new approaches with the authorities. At the same time we were constantly aware of the enormous responsibility and the high risk we were talking on by holding a physical tradeshow during a pandemic. So our experience during the event itself was a mix of apprehension and hope that everything would work out as planned. There was also euphoria and gratitude when things finally got going and we realised that we had really made it: in a time when it is simply impossible to plan, we managed to host Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone in almost the usual broad scope and depth. The great response and the confirmation from the industry were overwhelming. I particularly remember a comment one exhibitor made, about us giving back the industry a bit of normality and hope for the future.

You introduced your new Fabric.iD service at the last edition. How has the response been so far and what are the benefits?

The response to our Fabric.ID has been really good. Together with our partners we’ve been able to set up the process for digitalising fabrics in such a way that it can be expanded step by step. Since there are several steps needed to capture all the data, such as colour values, texture, repeat patterns and material composition, it’s quite time consuming. After the launch in September 2021, our goal is to offer this service to our exhibiting suppliers in its entirety. But visiting companies can also integrate the service into their sample process. The associated added value lies, for example, in cost and time savings during the sampling process as well as during the creative process. It also means that the massive amount of sample shipments for control and design processes is significantly reduced. Digital twins of fabrics offer a future-oriented solution for hybrid work with textiles, which are ultimately a haptic product that needs to be experienced and felt.

Are there any similarly exciting projects planned for the next edition? What can exhibitors and visitors look forward to in January 2022?

Exhibitors and visitors can look forward to Munich Fabric Start, Bluezone and Keyhouse in their usual broad scope and depth – with an international portfolio of fabrics and accessory manufacturers who will be presenting their innovations in Munich. This is still a planning challenge considering the uncertainty of putting on events in the run up to January 2022. With this goal in mind, we are fully focused on putting together an interesting and broad portfolio for spring/summer 2023 that offers the usual appeal. And we certainly won’t want to miss out on the opportunity to come up with one or two surprise projects at the tradeshow.

Apart from the health and safety aspect, international footfall is certainly one of the biggest challenges in COVID times. What are your hopes for next year’s edition and how do you assess the situation until then?

We are still in a very special situation and developments are still difficult to predict. There are simply too many factors that determine further development. What we are hoping for is to be able to maintain our September 2021 levels and – circumstances permitting – to raise things up a notch.

The tradeshow business has probably changed for good: what do you think are the most formative changes at MFS?

First of all, the appreciation we’ve experienced. After this long break for tradeshows we are seeing a lot of changes on the tradeshow calendar. At the same time, in-person tradeshows are gaining in importance, at least the kind of formats we represent. People are no longer taking physical tradeshows for granted – and this realisation is palpable. Another long-term change is the planning security and flexibility. Particularly when it comes to organising physical tradeshows on the scale that we do, a certain amount of advance time and the associated planning security are essential, both of which have been in extremely short supply over the past year and a half. We have had to repeatedly reassess, adapt and rethink our planning. This requires a great deal of flexibility and adaptability, which has been stretched to its limits in the dynamic kind of situation we’ve been experiencing over the past few months. At the moment, it feels as if these changes will continue to accompany us, and remain in the long term. Add to this the digital way of working that was thrust upon us by the pandemic, which requires hybrid approaches. This is also a long-term development that will influence the future of the industry – even though physical tradeshows, including the personal interaction and the haptic experience of fabrics, can never be completely replaced by digital solutions.

ILM OFFENBACH

Offenbach 5 — 7 March 2022 ilm-offenbach.de

A SENSE OF OPTIMISM After 18 months, the doors of ILM, the International Leather Goods Fair, finally opened its doors again at the beginning of September 2021. The restart was a success; the industry is getting back to business.

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

Trade fairs are finally back up and running – after a COVID-induced hiatus of one and a half years, it was time for International Leather Goods Fair ILM to invite guests back to the exhibition grounds in Offenbach from 4-6 September 2021. There was a real sense of optimism in the air as visitors and exhibitors spoke of their joy at being reunited and finally being able to do business in person again. This was confirmed by the event’s Managing Director Arnd Hinrich Kappe: “The restart was a huge success that was dominated by a positive atmosphere and high visitor numbers. Visitors from 27 countries were represented, proving that ILM isn’t restricted to Europe in terms of its significance. Despite the current circumstances, we were also able to report good attendance numbers.” There is clearly an overwhelming desire and need to return to face-to-face events: 207 exhibitors showcased their collections for spring/summer 2022 to a professional audience. Delighted about the successful reboot, Arnd Hinrich Kappe summed up the current mood of the industry and looked ahead to the coming event next March: “There’s a real sense of optimism in the air. In-person events offer inspiration and orientation for the important order business and also make it more simple and efficient. But worries about production processes abroad and supply shortages are currently concerning the sector. These are subjects that we’ll be addressing at the next ILM in March.”

DIGITALISATION AND SUSTAINABILITY

Digitalisation played an important role at the previous edition of ILM. For example, the ‘OFF XR Studio’ celebrated its premiere: various elements from the accompanying programme were shown on a gigantic LED wall, which can be used for product presentations as well as talks and films. Another focal point is sustainability. “In 2022, the ILM will mainly be driving forward digitalisation and sustainability. Its influence on production processes and delivery intervals will also play a role,” explained Arnd Hinrich Kappe when asked about the plans for the coming events in March (5-7 March 2022) and September (3-5 September 2022). A further highlight in the coming year is the premiere of ‘XTRA Order Days’ in Offenbach, which will take place from 19-21 January 2022 during Fashion Week. “In addition to ILM, we’ll be offering big brands and new talents a fantastic stage with XOD and opening up more ordering options,” says Arnd Hinrich Kappe, highlighting the benefits of the new platform for business and networking.

PITTI UOMO

Florence 11 — 13 January 2022 uomo.pittimmagine.com

FLORENCE, HOW WE MISSED YOU! It was the long-awaited sign that everyone had been hoping for. This May, when Pitti Immagine received the official green light from the Italian government to hold their summer events live and in person, there was a huge sigh of relief and a real sense of anticipation. And now everyone is excitedly waiting for the 101st edition of Pitti Uomo at the beginning of next year. Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, reveals why the ultimate menswear business event is not to be missed.

TEXT CHERYLL MÜHLEN

The good news were followed by a hardcore time schedule: the team only had 45 working days to plan, organise and bring their events to life, as Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, tells us over the phone – all while adhering to strict COVID health and safety measures to make the health of everyone involved a top priority. The team worked flat out to make it all happen and their efforts certainly paid off – a positive atmosphere, satisfied exhibitors and, as Raffaello Napoleone emphasises, no cases of COVID-19. With more than 10,000 visitors within the first five days of the fair, including at Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo and Pitti Filati, that is an impressive résumé and bodes extremely well for the next in-person event in January 2022.

“We are very positive about January,” he tells us optimistically, before talking about the positive developments and increasing ‘freedoms’ in Italy and around the world. So hopefully nothing will stand in the way of the most important menswear tradeshow from 11-13 January. And that’s a good thing. Because even though Raffaello Napoleone confirms that the tradeshow business has since changed for good, he is noticing a newly discovered appreciation of these kind of platforms. “What many people missed in the last three seasons is being able to compare their collections with those of their competitors. Of course you can sell through your own or multi-brand showrooms, but at the tradeshow you can find your niche of producers from the same market. And it’s the same for buyers, who need to be able to make confident choices.” Yet he is also more than aware of the increasing significance of digital solutions. Pitti Connect might have been a stopgap solution to begin with, but it has developed into an integral part of the Pitti Immagine offer and, as a hybrid platform, makes it more future-proof than ever. In conversation with exhibitors, it was clear that face-to-face contact is back in focus and actually preferred.

“Future fairs will gradually start to incorporate elements from the past again, but with a more carefully curated selection and a reinforced concept that offers the visitors new projects, new programmes and of course also more sustainability.” And that’s what it’s all about at the end of the day: “Leveraging this change, even if it’s deep and dramatic, and changing the concept of tradeshows. Of course, it’s still about seeing and selling, but the way you present is going to change every season, which is why we have to be very close to our exhibitors and understand their expectations.” In answer to our question about why visitors shouldn’t miss the upcoming Pitti Uomo, Raffaello Napoleone says: “Pitti Uomo is the leading tradeshow for men’s fashion. If you miss it, then you miss the opportunity to understand where the season is going. Of course, you can be lucky and have good instincts but if you want to succeed in the menswear business, you have to come to Florence.”