INTERVIEW

Raimar Bradt is a retailer with all his heart and soul – and has been for almost 20 years. He is one of the founders of the Bube und König stores in Nuremburg and has recently fulfilled a dream with his own store, eRBe, in Fürth’s old town. We used the store opening as an opportunity to talk to Raimar about his experiences over the past few months. But what does the hottest new shit, an irregular yarn and the irrepressible desire for fun and personal development have in common with eRBe? We sat down with the fashion connoisseur to find out.

RAIMAR BRADT e — RB e THE HOTTEST NEW SHIT

Raimar, after being involved in Bube und König in Nuremberg, you decided to come up with a new concept and open your own store. How did that come about?

I’ve always enjoyed the close proximity to the producers, the feeling of being in the middle of the action. That’s what keeps me going. It was always my aim, if I ever did open a new store, to do it with people who can still get me excited after almost 20 years in retail. I spotted the store premises after walking past them with my daughter and I was instantly impressed. I’ve always had a thing for Fürth. The town planning here over the last decade has really come on in leaps and bounds. But at the time, the idea of opening my own store and stepping away from Bube und König wasn’t really on the cards.

You opened eRBe this February. How have things been going so far?

It has been amazing. I was really surprised at how well the store has taken off, although it was a lot of work in the beginning. I’m working step by step on the store and also myself. Basically, I was surprised and, at the same time, happy that those first few weeks were so successful and sales were through the roof.

What does your logo mean?

I had originally wanted to dedicate the store to my daughter. Then I took the first two initials of my name and added an ‘e’ at both ends to read ‘erbe’ (editor’s note: ‘Erbe’ means legacy in English). Basically, the store is our legacy. The irregular thread symbolises the connection to one another and the craftsmanship that holds everything together. It can be read as a life motto, not necessarily to be perfect but to improve every day.

As you like to emphasise, your focus is on the ‘hottest new shit’! What does that actually mean in specific terms?

Everything that is involved in this project: my customers, my products, my people, the things they make. That was also the motivation to open a store where everyone is in it with all their heart. And I can guarantee that everyone involved is fully behind it. I didn’t think too much about opening a new store. I’m just having fun and really want to turn my ideas into a reality and I am more than aware that I am starting from zero. But I’m in it with all my heart and soul.

What is your actual concept?

I try to work with only German brands and producers to ensure short transport routes and direct contact. That automatically results in more sustainability. The same is true when you work with people who work more traditionally and set great store by quality. Companies that have been around for generations and are unique in what they do.

Searching for suitable partners, whether in sourcing or buying, is surely a lot of work. Are there even enough brands in Germany that can fulfil those high standards?

In the beginning I was slightly concerned about that too, but I discovered quite the opposite was the case. Researching these companies is a lot of work of course, but it’s my hobby and I enjoy it. If you enjoy something, then it’s not really work, it’s more like a holiday.

How do the partners you work with here see your concept? And how are they responding to your idea?

I am getting a lot of positive feedback. But for me it’s also about making my partners aware of German quality. Many products are simply sold below value when you think of the work that is involved in producing them. The textile sector is sadly really messed up in this respect.

So you want to get your customers excited about products from Germany?

Yes, exactly and also about the stories that are being told with these products. Thankfully the ‘Made in Germany’ stamp still represents quality. We can also come up with the goods but the only thing holding us back is sustainability. An increasing number of companies are producing in Europe, but we don’t even have a minimum wage in Europe like we do here in Germany. If we aren’t prepared to support our own people, then we’re not doing the German economy nor the textile sector any favours. And what’s worse: old craftsmanship skills are gradually falling by the wayside.

How are you bucking the trend for fast fashion?

I go by the motto ‘nobody’s perfect’. I make mistakes, I have bad habits. But I reflect on them and basically know when I make a mistake that it’s not okay. A lot of people don’t even think that far ahead. I can understand people buying fast

fashion, but the one thing I don’t understand is buying cheap and assuming that that’s a fair deal. It’s a double standard that is sadly part of our mentality.

Is it hard to teach customers new ways of seeing things?

It’s not hard, it’s fun. That’s my job. It’s my entertainment. A lot of retailers complain about their customers. After 18 years of working in retail, I can say that there’s no such thing as a bad customer. The question the retailers should be asking themselves is if they are good enough for the customers.

What are the criteria when curating your portfolio? What do the brands and collections need to have?

In principle, I decide things relatively intuitively. For example, I see an image of a blouse, read two sentences about it and I already know that it suits my concept, even though I haven’t seen the rest. The great thing about the selection process is that I am always learning new things. Like currently with a brand that sells Japanese fabrics made in Germany. I have learnt that you can tie a kimono on two sides. Tied on the one side, it’s a sign of mourning and on the other side, it’s your everyday kimono. That kind of knowledge really blows my mind.

There’s a big question mark above a lot of people’s heads regarding sustainability in fashion, but also a certain hesitation in getting to know sustainable labels and coming to terms with their price ranges. What tips can you give these people if they want to consume more consciously?

Well, basically the higher pricing is completely justified; it’s just a question of how to communicate this to the customer in a plausible way. Here’s an example: you see a T-shirt in a

After 18 years of working in retail, I can say that there’s no such thing as a bad customer.

store for 5 euros and one for 89 euros. Your first question is going to be why is the T-shirt so expensive? You need to tell the story behind the product. As retailers, we are responsible for delivering information to the customer. If we don’t do that, the customer simply leaves thinking, “Why does this store sell such expensive T-shirts?”.

When are you planning an event on the topic of repairing, perhaps also with Wabi Sabi denims? How much potential is there in the repair service?

I love the whole idea of repairing things. Currently I’m mainly selling raw denim, unwashed jeans. When you wear them in, the actual beauty and patina of the denims come to the fore. The great thing about raw denim is that it’s manufactured without being washed. Without the use of chemicals, artificial washes and the loss of quality that goes hand in hand with those processes. With raw denim, you get the real deal.

Your store is in Fürth, so your customers who travel to you from elsewhere must be true connoisseurs. How would you describe your community?

My customers are really a mixed bunch, the lawyer from Munich, the rocker guy from Leipzig or just your average customers from Fürth. I’ll get a 10-year-old coming in with his parents and telling me he’s a fan of mine. These young customers tell me they love the fact that I treat them as equals. I’m honoured by that because my founding principle is that everyone is welcome here.

@RAIMARBRADT