DENIM TRENDS AW 23/24

DENIM OF THE FUTURE

DENIM TRENDS AW23/24

TEXT DENIZ TROSDORFF

ISKUR DENIM THE AUTHENTIC DENIM LOOK

These challenging times have really pushed the denim industry to its limits. One of the biggest hurdles it faced was delays in the supply of cotton and chemicals. Demand was high, but the supply was either not met or held up. There were also price hikes, production delays, energy price increases and machinery supply issues – all of which had a noticeable impact on distribution channels. All too aware of these issues, Iskur Denim is taking the opportunity to focus even more on its company code of conduct: to protect nature and maintain the authenticity of denim. This explains why their AW 2023/24 trend line is all about authenticity. The colour palette includes pure indigo, shades of green and contrasting blacks. And soft fabrics that evoke a sense of wellbeing are a must. But to live up to the look and feel of authentic denim, the cosy, feel-good vibe comes through the softness of the fabric, ensured by the use of elastic fibres with excellent bounce-back capabilities. As part of its ‘Indigo Plus’ concept, the company is also presenting high-quality fabrics made of cashmere blends. Another highlight of this collection are cosy, fleece-lined fabrics. Also making an appearance are super-soft cotton materials in trendy vintage looks. ‘Iskur Contrast’ offers all shades of black in different finishes with the added bonus that all of the black tones are laser friendly.

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BOSSA THE POWER OF INNOVATION

It all started with an idea – this is Bossa’s attitude to incorporating contemporary, cultural trends and influences into its denim creations each season. Not only does the company meet the exacting demands of its consumers, but also provides inspiration and drives innovation. For the new AW 2023/24 season, the Turkish denim manufacturer has divided its fabrics into three categories:

OUTDOOR LIVING Mother Earth is at the centre of this trend theme, which references not only the planet but also the respectful treatment of it and the admiration of its natural wonders. In terms of the fabrics themselves, this is interpreted in weatherproof materials that are designed to be both functional and comfortable.

EASY DOES IT Effortlessness and lightness are important keywords for the AW23 season, translated by Bossa into casual silhouettes and staying true to traditional blue washes. ‘Easy Does It’ highlights a more refined side of casualwear, with elegance and quality at the fore. The styles are designed to be gender neutral and can therefore be enjoyed by everyone.

DECONSTRUCTED DELIGHT A modern take on casualwear, this category is all about the diverse and, above all, creative potential of denim upcycling to create the newest and most exciting silhouettes possible. Patch details and reconstructed garments simplify the tailoring process. ‘Deconstructed Delight’ also borrows from the architectural and intellectual approach of ancient Japanese deconstruction techniques and the deconstruction of the clothing codes in your own wardrobe.

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ORTA I AM A BLUESKYER

For the coming season, Orta is embracing the topic of sustainability. That’s why their AW 2023/24 collection is called #IAMABLUESKYER and aimed at a particularly young target group. ‘Blueskyers’ are the new generation who are determined to put an end to climate change, avoid waste and cultivate diversity in flora and fauna as well as improving social equality. With this new collection, the denim connoisseurs are addressing various trend scenarios that explore their philosophy in different ways. Authenticity and style integrity are the keywords when it comes to ‘Gen H’, where the focus is on the workwear of eco-rebels. The focus here is on hemp, which boasts antibacterial, antimicrobial, biodegradable and breathable features, as well as having many other environmentally friendly properties that make it the eco-raw material of the moment. But cotton also plays a significant role in the collection. Under the title ‘Gen R’, Orta is presenting a functional denim that, for the first time, is made of biodegradable cotton from regenerative agriculture. ‘One fabric for all!’ is the ‘Huxley All Season’ claim. Here Orta is offering a fabric that allows unlimited creative scope for different washing processes, from stiff to stretchy, from raw to heavily bleached, and with treatment options for traditional washing processes or innovative environmental technologies. Zero synthetics is the name of the game for ‘Torque’, an eco-friendly mono-material that contains no artificial fibres, microplastics, spandex or PET. With this concept, the denim manufacturer has come up with an innovative alternative to the use of synthetics in the stretch sector. One of the biodegradable products from the Torque family is the ‘Magical Comfort Stretch’.

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ÇALIK DENIM TECHNOLOGY AND ECOAWARENESS COMBINED

A future in which responsibility and progress are all-important and technology focuses not only on communication and production, but also brings together the physical and online worlds. This is the inspiration behind Çalik Denim’s ‘Togetherness’ collection for the AW 2023/24 season. The theme of comfort is still going strong, as reflected in the new season with ‘Flextend’, bi-stretch products that combine the appearance of authentic 90s denims with salt-and-pepper effects. Thanks to their ‘Rawtech’ technology, Çalik Denim is providing raw denims with a very low shrinkage value – even after countless washes at home. The concept also includes products with Dyepro, Çalik Denim’s completely water-free technology that eliminates wastewater as well as chemical waste. Circular product group ‘E-Denim’ is serving up three new products for AW 2023/24: Rigid, Comfort and Powerstretch. E-Denim uses a big part of recycled yarn as the core with its uniquely developed production technology, while also providing traceability for everyone involved. The core yarn is then wrapped with recycled cotton and recycled Tencel is added to it to achieve the maximum amount of recycled material that can be technically made using the ring spinning process. ‘D’enovated’ pays tribute to the authentic denim look. This season, it’s even available in the form of denim shirts in brand new colours. This family of fabrics, offered in all finishes, has a wide range of products with alternatives that contain 20 percent recycled materials.

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MARITAS ˛

DENIM DENIM ON MY MIND

For the upcoming AW 2023/24 season, Turkish denim expert Maritas ˛ Denim is focusing on a variety of concepts with themes of innovation and sustainability at their core. And the same applies to collection highlight Cycle-fx, a circular stretch technology that allows jeans to be recycled at the end of their life. The fabric contains only cotton or recycled cotton and spandex and no other synthetic fabrics. In keeping with the currently popular authentic denim look, Cycle-fx fabrics deliver the sought-after, relatively rigid ‘core-spun’ look combined with the added benefits of elasticity.

Speaking of authentic denim: with its ‘Spin Off’ concept, Maritas ˛ Denim is taking up the vintage denim theme and focusing on sustainable dye options, contrasts and striking blue tones from dark to icy, all available in rigid stretch fabrics. Marble looks are shifting towards orange-peel effects, just like in the old Levi’s 501 days. With ‘Aged Finish’, the company is presenting denims in used, worn and second-hand looks, which appear softer and more relaxed. Under ‘2/1 Revolution’, Maritas ˛ is focusing on workwear styles in light to medium fabric weightings with finishes that are compact and more tightly woven. As part of its ‘Terra Denim’ project, the denim aficionado is continuing to come up with products that are biodegradable and ideal for sustainable washing processes such as ozone laser treatments. For this collection, Maritas ˛

Denim is taking its cue from traditional dyeing methods, minus the chemicals. That means that the wastewater produced during the process can be used for agricultural purposes without any additional treatment. Terra Denim uses clay as a dye base and bio-resin.

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OFFICINA+39 THE AQUALESS MISSION

For years now, Italian company Officina+39, which also offers ecological innovations in chemical applications in the textile sector, has been promoting technologies that provide more environmentally friendly solutions. Their approach is based on honesty, transparency and social responsibility and is perfectly summed up in the company’s sustainability drive, which they have named ‘Trustainable’. Efforts to establish greener manufacturing processes in the textile industry include the conscious conservation and use of water: bundled together under the ‘Aqualess Mission’, Officina+39 offers a combination of technologies that make it possible to reduce water consumption by 75 percent during garment laundry processes. By comparison, conventional systems typically use 52 litres of water for one pair of jeans, while Officina+39’s technology requires only 12.5 litres for the same pair of jeans, without compromising on quality. Officina+39 has recently developed and expanded its Aqualess Mission with Aqualess Fade. This allows the creation of a chlorine-like bleaching effect on fabrics, while drastically reducing water consumption and using products with a low environmental impact. So far, the process comprises three environmentally friendly technologies: ‘Novascraper Indigo’, a laser finishing technique that gives denim garments a natural vintage look, ‘Aqualess Aged’, a water-free compound that provides denim with a used look, and ‘OZ-ONE Powder’, which allows garments to be bleached in an eco-friendly way. The result is a worn and distressed look.

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ADVANCE DENIM ON A SUSTAINABILITY MISSION

As well as plenty of new trends, Chinese denim weavers Advance Denim have lots of innovative and sustainable technologies and concepts at the ready for their autumn/winter 2023/24 collection. Under the heading ‘Novelty Texture’, the company is presenting cotton fabrics with interesting structures and looks, including dobby, broken twill, indigo canvas, jacquard looks and rainbow neps. ‘Fancy Coatings’ includes a range of high-quality and fashionable surface finishes. In its ‘Advance Performance’ category, Advance Denim has developed a denim called ‘Cross-Tech’ that combines antibacterial properties, temperature regulation and moisture management. And 37.5 Technology is a dynamic thermostatic technology that interacts with the body and is triggered by humidity, combining naturally active particles with improved biodegradability and options for recycled yarn. ‘Warm Cosy Fashion’ offers material innovations that, as the name suggests, ensure a feeling of wellbeing. In addition to ‘Wool Denim’ and ‘Faux Sherpas’, the company is presenting its newly patented technology ‘Merino Peach’. The fabric has a very soft feel that gets softer the more it is washed. The softness and ‘peach’ effect are achieved by brushing the front and back of the fabric. ‘Merino Peach’ also provides thermal insulation. In addition to the fashion factor, sustainability is also on Advance Denim’s radar for the coming season – with a focus on innovative technologies that bring the company closer to its goal of creating a more sustainable future. Concepts such as ‘Bio Blue’ or ‘Botanic Dyes’ are just a few examples of what the coming season will bring. And ‘Big Box’ is presenting a sustainable indigo dyeing process that is more efficient and environmentally friendly: conventional indigo dyeing needs eight to 13 dye baths compared to the big box dyeing process, which requires only one. In contrast to conventional dyeing, it reduces water consumption and wastewater quantities by up to 99 percent.

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