Mekong Adventure A journey through Cambodia and Laos
A journey through Cambodia and Laos
Our CEO and guide, Chenda (Chen) Sor.
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Mekong Adventure Southeast Asia is a modern land with roots strongly entwined in the deep past. As we travelled through Cambodia and Laos, following the Mekong River, we found ancient wonders co-existing with modernity. The people of this region welcome travellers with joy and interest. Starting in Bangkok, Thailand, we made our way to Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, Kratie, Don Khong, Don Daeng, Champasak, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, and Vientiane before returning to Bangkok. Along the way we visited the old wats (temples,) markets, city cores and local villages. We travelled by boat in search of the Mekong River dolphins and spent a night in a private home on a small island in Laos. Cambodia and Laos are distinctly different lands sharing many common roots. Cambodia is a constitutional monarchy, Laos is a Marxist centred communist republic. Where Laos seems laid back, almost bucolic in nature, Cambodia appears to be in overdrive. Much of the Cambodian forest has been removed to make way for farmland. The Laotian countryside retains much of its canopy. Both countries are predominantly Theravada Buddhist. Both countries were touched by the conflict in Vietnam. The first humans arrived in the area about 44,000 BCE* establishing an agricultural base. Since then several waves of migrants have made the land their home. Today the region has a population approaching 23 million people not counting the tens of millions who visit here every year. This journey through this part of Indochina took place in February 2016. Our group included people from Canada, the UK, Germany, Austria, Norway, and the USA, fifteen travellers on a 15 day G Adventure to see all that we could see.
*BCE = Before Common or Current Era
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Bangkok Thailand Our starting and ending point on this journey was Bangkok, a bustling city in southern Thailand. Bangkok is a modern metropolis with a subway, sky train and water bus network that can transport you to almost any place in the city in short order. With a free day to explore we took the subway and sky train to the water bus station and boarded the Chao Phraya tourist boat. The riverside is a juxtaposition of wats (temples) and modern buildings. Cruising along the Chao Phraya we passed and were passed by barges, ferries, and longtail boats headed in all directions.
Eventually we disembarked and made our way on foot through markets, stalls and restaurants to the streets outside Wat Pho Royal Monastery. Entering Wat Pho we experienced our first education in Buddhist etiquette. Shoes are left at the entrance. So unshod, we found ourselves in a place of gold and white with spires reaching to the sky. Wat Pho is home to an image of the Reclining Buddha, at 15 meters high and 46 meters long this golden image is a truly impressive statement of faith. Stupas - small pagodas containing relics, ashes, or gems - populate the grounds of the Wat. Larger buildings with tiled roofs and sweeping finials harken back to the time when the monastery was built. The monastery is home to a school of therapeutic massage that one of us could not pass by without spending some time experiencing the ministrations of the students.
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Leaving Wat Pho, we retraced our steps to our boat to return to our hotel where we would meet newly arrived members of our group and connect with our Chief Experience Officer who would be our guide on this adventure. Paperwork completed and introductions made, our band of travellers hopped onboard a subway train to head out to the Cabbages and Condoms restaurant for our first meal together. This establishment is operated by the Population and Community Development Association to raise awareness of family planning in Thailand. It’s also a very interesting place to eat and the bill does come with a condom.
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Cambodia Reconnecting the next morning, we boarded a bus to make our way into Cambodia. Crossing the boarder we entered a new land, large trucks were replaced by smaller vehicles loaded well beyond their capacity. Capacity is the top priority, safety comes second. Since the roadsides are not strewn with wreckage, the system appears to work. Break time found us at a small roadside stand like the fruit stands at home. Same same but different being our new reality, we soon realized that this little market specialized in fried insects - crickets, silk-worm larvae, and small frogs were piled high in bowls for us to try. With great enthusiasm, Chen led the way and encouraged us to take part in the little feast of what we would come to call critters. Those who indulged in this culinary excursion reported that the critters weren’t bad, a little like chips perhaps. Back on the bus, we headed for Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. Eventually, we arrived at the hotel that would be our base for a couple of days. Climbing into tuk-tuks we made our way to dinner at the Helen Bonner Health Centre in Siem Reap. Part of the New Hope Project, the Centre provides not only health care, but also education. The Centre contains a school where local young people are trained in Khmer culinary arts. The little dining room allows students to practice meal preparation and the art of serving customers. All proceeds of the Centre are used to further the work of the project. The students have learned well, an excellent meal was set before us and soon eaten.
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Angkor Wat Early the next morning, well before dawn, we arrived at Angkor Wat to witness sunrise over the temple. Waiting in the pre-dawn darkness we watched as the sky beyond the temple brightened with fiery red hues bringing the towers of the Wat into stark relief.
During this magic moment, bathed in dawn light, one young man in our group took a leap of faith and proposed to his companion and so Peter and Mirijam of Germany became engaged at Angkor Wat. When they rejoined the group they were duly congratulated, while the ladies inspected the ring the men decided who would buy the drinks. Temporarily suspending the celebration, we turned our focus back to the Wat to capture some images as the golden morning light flooded over the temple grounds.
Taking time out from our tour, we visited a small restaurant near the Wat for breakfast. Was it going to be the fried rice or the fried noodles? Too early for Angkor beer, we settled for the coffee which was an equally satisfying brew.
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Arguably the best known historic site in Southeast Asia, Angkor Wat and nearby Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm receive over 2 million foreign visitors every year. Covering some 1.6 million square meters, Angkor Wat was initially constructed in Hindu style in the early 12th century during the reign of Suryavarman II. Dedicated to Vishnu, it was built as the king's state temple and capital city. As many of the bas-relief decoration are unfinished, historians believe the work ended shortly after the king's death. By the 13th century the Hindu faith of the builders had given way to Buddhism. In the late 16th century, the temple complex fell into a period of neglect. Unlike Ta Phrom, Angkor Wat did not suffer significant damage from the encroaching jungle owing to the relative protection provided by its surrounding moat.
Bas-relief carvings and Buddha images adorn the Wat, demonstrating the dual histories of the great temple. Buddhist monks who frequent the wat routinely give blessings to visitors and pilgrims.
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Climbing to the upper terrace of the central building allows for a birds eye view of the rampart wall and the jungle beyond. Looking down into the courtyards from the terrace adds perspective which cannot be gained from the ground. Looking up from the courtyard, the temple looks tall, looking down from the top of the stairs, you know it’s tall. If one needs confirmation of this,
you need only look down at your friends waiting to see if you will climb or fly down. Angkor Wat is a World Heritage Site which imposes some much needed restrictions on what visitors can and cannot do there. Ascending to the upper levels is now done via a steel and wooden staircase in order to preserve the stone stairs which were intended to be used by a few people, not millions. It is possible to love something to destruction. Our visit to the great temple coming to a close, we turned back for a last look before making our way to the east gate on our way to Ta Prohm.
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Ta Prohm When most people think of Angkor Wat, they are filled with visions of trees and roots devouring the temples and stupas. Those sights are found at Ta Prohm, one of the outlying wats to the east of the great temple. Fans of Laura Croft will recall images of Ta Prohm in the Tomb Raider movie. Ta Prohm was founded in 1186 CE by Khmer King Jayavarman VII as a Mahayana Buddhist monastery and university. The photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the surrounding jungle make it one of Angkor's most popular temples. In 1992, UNESCO placed Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List. Limited preservation maintains the site in much the same condition it was when found in recent times. Few words can adequately describe Angkor Thom, images pay little more than lip service to the sights that await visitors. With the capable assistance of our local guide Haing, we entered this awe inspiring world.
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Angkor Thom Angkor Thom was established as the capital of Jayavarman VII's empire in the late 12th century and was the focus of his massive building campaign. An inscription found in the city refers to Jayavarman as the groom and the city as his bride. Angkor Thom was abandoned prior to 1609. An early western visitor wrote of an uninhabited city, "as fantastic as the Atlantis of Plato". At its height the city is believed to have had a population of 80,000–150,000 residents. Angkor Thom could also be called the City of Faces as virtually all of the temple towers carry at least one massive human face carved in stone. The palisade wall is covered with bas-relief carvings depicting the various gods, goddesses, and other-worldly beings from the mythological stories and epic poems of ancient Hinduism with modifications inspired by centuries of Buddhism. Mingled with these images are known animals. Elephants, snakes, fish, and monkeys, join dragonlike creatures reminiscent of the serpents found in Chinese art.
Passing through the rampart, we entered the great city to join visitors from many lands - all of us on some mission of personal discovery.
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The huge faces that adorn the towers throughout the city have various interpretations. Some historians believe them to be likenesses of the king, others hold that they are of a guardian figure from Hindu history. Either way, the images overlook the city with a benevolence that spans the ages. These peaceful images witnessed the sacking of the city by King Chao Sam Phraya who led his Siamese army through Cambodia in the 15th century. Abandoned after Choa Sam Phraya moved the capital to the southeast, these guardians watched as the intervening centuries turned the great city to ruin. Today they look down on travellers who come to see history. As they look to the future we wish them well.
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The Road to Phnom Penh Leaving the mystical haunts of Angkor, we made our way by bus to the modern capital, Phnom Penh. During a brief stop on the highway, we were introduced to sticky rice. Cooked in bamboo cylinders, the rice becomes a rather sweet sticky mass that is eaten as snack by local people. The proprietor of the little stand showed us how the rice is cooked and how to extract it from its bamboo case. The contents did not disappoint as we passed the packets of rice around our group. Moving on we made our way to a riverside restaurant for lunch and the requisite bio-break. Promised rice for breakfast, rice for lunch and rice for dinner, we sat down to a meal of rice with all the trimmings.
Further down the road we stopped at a small market that seemed to specialize in all manner of fried critters. Fried cockroaches, frogs, silkworm larvae, crickets, and tarantulas were piled high on platters for sale. With unbridled enthusiasm, Chen led us through another tasting of the fried bugs, culminating with a demonstration of the handling of tarantulas. Several members of our group took part in the impromptu feast. I think silkworm larvae pair well with beer,
We also found trays laden with local fruit, a welcome change from fried critters.
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Phnom Penh Arriving in the capital city in the early evening, we checked into our downtown hotel and prepared for the next day’s exploration. Situated on the banks of the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers, Phnom Penh has been the national capital since French colonization of Cambodia. Home to about 2 million people, the city has grown to become the nation's center of economic and industrial activities, as well as a center of cultural heritage. Tourism is not new to Phnom Penh. Once known as the "Pearl of Asia," in the 1920s it was considered one of the loveliest French-built cities in Indochina. Along with Siem Reap, Phnom Penh remains a significant tourist destination. Founded in 1434, the city is noted for its beautiful and historical architecture and attractions. There are a number of surviving French colonial buildings scattered along the city’s grand boulevards. Linking up with our local guide, Mr. Run, we paid a chilling visit to the Choeung Ek Genocide Centre - the Killing Fields. This site, just 15 km from Phnom Penh, was one of many scattered throughout the country. Pol Pot, leader of the Khmer Rouge, sought to take Cambodia back to a rural society and persecuted anyone that he viewed as an impediment to that goal. The Khmer Rouge regime arrested and eventually executed anyone suspected of connections with the former government or with foreign governments, as well as professionals and intellectuals. Ethnic Vietnamese, ethnic Thai, ethnic Chinese, ethnic Cham, Cambodian Christians, and the Buddhist monkhood were the non-political targets and so more than 1.4 million people were murdered in unspeakable acts of brutality. Their bones are a testament to the dark time that gripped the country in the mid-1970s. The total number of deaths resulting from Pol Pot’s policies is estimated at 2.5 millions, which was over 25% of the population at the time. The Khmer Rouge regime was brought down by the Vietnamese Army in 1979. Today a Buddhist stupa stands as a memorial and reminder. The stupa contains the bones of victims found in the mass graves at Choeung Ek. Visitors can enter the stupa to pay respect to the victims who died here
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From the Killing Fields we returned to the city to continue our exploration at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. In 1975 the Chao Ponhea Yat High School was commandeered and renamed Security Prison-21, the regime’s centre for reeducation. Prisoners of the Khmer Rouge were brought to the prison where they were subjected to humiliation and torture. Ostensibly to help prisoners understand their transgressions, the real objective was to “persuade� them to report others to the regime. Rather than re-education, the prison was the first step on the road to execution at the Killing Fields. Prisoners were housed in bare rooms, some measuring just over a meter wide and 2 meters long. Shackled day and night, they were to remain silent unless ordered to speak. Transgressions were dealt with in brutal fashion. The prison and the killing fields were shut down by the Vietnamese army in 1979. A large mural at the museum shows several children who were liberated. As our guide described the events that led to the closure of the prison, a middle-aged man approached us and related that he was one of the
children in the mural. As we looked on, he told us his story and how he has worked to ensure that the story is not forgotten. Of the 17,000 prisoners at S 21, only 12 adults survived after liberation. Today only 3 remain. Chum Mey, a former mechanic, was spared by the Khmer Rouge because he had a talent for fixing machinery. Today at 86, he is the director of the victims association and spends his days talking to visitors and signing copies of his book, Survivor, the story of his incarceration and persecution.
Pol Pot was born into a moderately wealthy rural family. He was educated both as a Buddhist monk in Cambodia and as a electronics technician in Paris. Suffering from poor eyesight, he wore glasses. These simple facts would seem to be at odds with his hatred for and persecution of Buddhist monks, the rich and the educated who he identified by their use of glasses.
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After lunch that day we walked with monks and other travellers to the Royal Place. The palace complex has served as the royal residence of the king of Cambodia since the capital was relocated here in 1866, Built atop an old citadel called Banteay Kev, it faces towards the east on the western bank of the Tonle Sap River where it meets the Mekong.
The palace is a mix of grand halls and courtyards mingled with pagodas and temples. The Chan Chhaya, or Moonlight Pavilion, is one of the most notable buildings of the palace. Built alongside a section of the palace wall it is easily seen from the outside. Built in 1913, this incarnation of the Chan Chhaya Pavilion replaced the original wooden structure built just a few decades earlier. The Pavilion serves as a venue for the Royal Dancers, as a platform for the King to address the crowds and as a place to hold state and Royal banquets. The Preah Tineang Tevea Vinnichay Mohai Moha Prasat or "Throne Hall" is where the king's confidants, generals and royal officials once carried out their duties. It is still in use today as a place for religious and royal ceremonies such as coronations and royal weddings. The crossshaped building is crowned with three spires. The central, 59 meter spire is topped with the white, four-faced head of Brahma. The Throne Hall contains three royal thrones and golden busts of Cambodians kings and queens starting from the reign of King Ang Doung onwards. The Silver Pagoda is located on the South side of the palace complex. It features a royal temple officially called Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot. Its main building houses national treasures such as gold and jeweled Buddha statues, including a small crystal Buddha and a near-life-size Maitreya Buddha encrusted with 9,584 diamonds. During King Sihanouk's pre-Khmer Rouge reign, the Silver Pagoda was lined with more than 5,000 silver tiles and some of its outer facade was remodeled with Italian marble.
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The palace grounds are home to several stupas large and small. The stupas contain relics and the cremated remains of honoured individuals. One prominent stupa contains the remains of King Norodom, the founder of the new palace in Phnom Penh. The palace grounds provide a quiet sanctuary away from the noise and bustle of the streets outside its walls. As one of the most photogenic sites in Phnom Penh, we were lucky to visit on a day with deep blue skies and high white clouds‌ a welcome change from the sights of the morning. Exiting the palace we were caught up once again in the rush of the city streets. Riding on tuk-tuks we returned to our hotel for our next adventure.
Just before sunset, we left our hotel to start a ground level trip through downtown Phnom Penh via cyclos. The cyclo is essentially a chair mounted on the front of a pedaled cycle with three wheels, like a rickshaw, but much lower to the pavement. This is an adrenaline raising way to travel.
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Our little swarm of cyclos proceeded up and down the streets between our hotel and the city center. Navigating through traffic with great skill our drivers threaded their way amongst the many cars and motorbikes that shared the road with us. After a short ride, we stopped at a stupa honouring ‘Daun Penh’, an elderly 14th century lady who discovered 4 bronze Buddha images inside a tree washed downstream during a flood. Penh had the villagers build a hill so the Buddha images could be housed in a temple high above the river. The hill, or phnom in Khmer, came to be known as Phnom Penh. Back on the cyclos our drivers took us on a twilight tour down the riverside then along one of the city’s parks to the Independence Monument commemorating Cambodia’s independence from France in1953.
Sitting down to a sumptuous meal prepared by Mr. Run’s family, we learned from his eldest daughter that her father supports a school and several students in the compound around his house. Valuing education, Mr. Run’s daughter is a student at a local college studying tourism and recreation. She assured us that whatever was left-over from our dinner would be shared with their little community. After dinner, we descended to the ground floor courtyard for some music and a taste of tarantula flavoured rice whisky. Interesting brew, but I don’t think it will be in our local liquor store for a while.
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After breakfast the next morning, we once again boarded the bus to head north out of the city and into the countryside. Recognizing that agendas are flexible, we stopped on our way out of town to see Chen’s mother at her market stall. Widowed and not wanting to be a burden on her children, she established herself as a purveyor of fine produce for local cooks and restaurants. By all accounts, she is very successful. After paying our respects to Chen’s mum, we travelled into the forest to a rubber factory.
Agriculture is the primary industry in Cambodia. Its primary export products are rice and rubber. Latex is collected from trees as a clear sap. The sap is placed in long troughs where it is allowed to coagulate either naturally or with the help of a little formic acid. The coagulated clumps of rubber are removed to a water bath for further processing. Sap that has coagulated in the forest is of lower grade. Often containing earth and bits of bark, it comes to the factory as large black lumps which require considerable processing.
Making rubber involves much heavy work moving blocks of curing rubber from machine to machine to be refined into its marketable form. It is also a rather smelly process. Even though synthetic rubber is available, natural rubber still maintains a hold on the market. Used in rubber tires, surgical gloves, medical tubing, and the like, natural rubber remains as an important export product.
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Kratie Midafternoon found us in Kratie, a small town on the Mekong River where we would spend the night. Sunset comes early in sub-equatorial regions so we made for the river to hitch a ride out onto the water with hopes of spotting the Irrawaddy Dolphins that frequent the area. Our boatman and his daughter ferried us out into the current where we did indeed catch fleeting sights of several of the little dolphins as they surfaced to breathe. The Mekong dolphins are a sub-group of the Irrawaddy Dolphins found elsewhere in Southeast Asia. Their number in Cambodia and Laos is estimated at about 90. Conservation efforts are aimed at preventing the number from falling further. In the hands of our captain and his crew, we spent a lazy hour on the water watching for dolphins and taking in the scenery along the way.
As the sun touched the horizon, we headed back to shore where we would find a suitable eatery for dinner and trading stories.
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Laos Rising early the next day, we boarded our Cambodian bus for the last time and headed north to Laos. Once safely across the boarder, a task made easier by our CEO, we found our Laotian transportation and made our way to Don Khong Island on the Mekong. We found ourselves at a small resort on the riverside where we quickly deposited our bags and headed to the terrace bar to see what beverages were on offer. Beerlao became our new favourite thirst quencher. On the river below us, we noted a couple of fishers in their canoe going about their business of gathering fish. Across the river stands a massive Buddha image atop a distant hill. All quite relaxing, especially with the Beerlao.
Midafternoon, several of us hopped on a small river boat for an exploration of sights downstream. During our voyage, we passed other fishers casting and retrieving their nets and got the feeling that fish might be on the menu that evening. Going ashore, we found ourselves in a village with fishing canoes on one side and rice fields on the other. Rice is usually only grown once a year, but here on the Mekong, water is plentiful so two crops are possible.
Walking along a path, we were prompted to look up where jackfruit pods were hanging from their parent tree.
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Exploring further in this little village, we arrived at the local wat and monastery. In the warm light that heralds sunset, the stupas that surround the wat radiated with golden hues. Monks saffron robes hung to air added contrast to the wooden planks of the monastery. Inside the grounds of the wat we spotted a golden Buddha image seated on a Naga snake with the snake’s many heads forming a canopy over the Buddha’s head. This Buddha image sits with his hands in the Calling the Earth to Witness posture that signifies his awakening to enlightenment. Walking back to our boat we noticed that we were being followed by a band of ducks that seemed to be content to follow our lead.
Along the way, villagers came out to greet the strange people who spoke in odd tongues. With our overwhelming command of two words in Lao, we bade them sabaidi (hello) and khob chai (thank you) which seemed to have the desired effect.
With the setting sun reddening the horizon, we returned to the boat and motored upstream back to our resort for dinner and the telling of tall tales over a few drinks.
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Early the next morning, we gathered to discuss the day’s activities over breakfast on the terrace. Several members of our group opted for a bicycle tour of the island while a few of us decided that a stroll through town would fit the bill. Walking by the river, we set out on our peregrination. Passing water buffalo grazing in a field, we were brought up short by one of the animals crossing the road in front of us. Luckily, this giant was apparently gentle, giving us only fleeting inspection as it went on its way. Down one street we found Wat Phuang Kaew. Also known as Vat Kan Khong, the little temple is home to several small stupas and an ornate golden Buddha image atop a Naga snake. Like other Buddha images with attendant snakes, the many heads of the serpent form a canopy over the Buddha’s head. Elsewhere in the village a couple of the walkers stopped at a local establishment for a massage to work out some kinks gathered along the way. Putting off their shoes as the sign outside requested, they left us to continue our explorations.
Walking back to our hotel, we were reminded of parental admonitions not to play in the street, obviously not a concern here in this peaceful little community.
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Meanwhile, the cyclists were choosing their bicycles for their pedal tour. Once suitable two wheeled steeds were found, they set off on their journey.
Later, when all members of our group had returned from their various explorations, we packed up and left Don Khong to travel by bus and boat to Don Daeng where we would spend the night with local families, eating and sleeping in their homes to experience local living at the grass roots level. Our hosts were gracious in sharing their homes with us. Exploring our new home, we visited the local Wat and the chatted with villagers with the help of our local guide. Just down the road, we found a resort that was well stocked with beverages including wine and Beerlao. Tired from the day’s activities, we settled into our beds for much needed sleep.
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After our morning meal, we walked to the riverside to meet the boats that would ferry us across the river to our next stop, Tomo Temple and Wat Phou at Champasak. Tomo Temple, built in the 4th century CE, is now almost completely gone. In the 11th century Wat Phou was built on the site of the old temple. Like royalty of older times, we walked up the royal road to the Wat.
The lower temples are undergoing repairs to slow the damage inflicted by time and nature over the centuries.
Passing by the guardian at the base, we began our climb to the upper temple. Like many of the old stairways, going up is difficult, coming down is challenging. At the top of the staircase, we found the ruins of the upper temple. Although the temple is in ruin, it has been stabilized enough to allow visitors to enter in safety. A shrine honouring the Buddha is found within one of the temple’s chambers. Following an age old custom, some of us hefted a stone above our heads three times to emphasise the wishes that we asked the Buddha to grant. There are three stones, ranging from small and light to large and heavy. The petitioner chooses the size of stone based on the size of the wish that he or she wants to ask for. And, it is okay to tell others what you wished for.
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Around the grounds of the upper temple, we found several stupas containing relics and cremated remains. Tucked back against the hillside we found images carved in the massive stones that sit around the temple. From a time when spirits were prominent, the image of an elephant peers out from a rock. Only slightly changed by its journey through time, it looks ready to walk out onto the earth..
On another stone we found an engraved image of a reptile complete with a deeply engraved hollow in the size and shape of a human adult. Some experts believe that the rock was used in human sacrifice rituals more than 1,000 years ago, at a time predating the arrival of Buddhism in the Khmer empire. Taking advantage of our vantage point on the terrace of the upper temple, we took a break to look down on the royal road and the lower temple structures in the valley below. It was then time to descend the massive staircase that we had climbed a scant hour earlier. Climbing down was less work but did provide the adrenaline rush that comes with knowing that one missed step would be very painful.
All of us safely down, we headed forward on our adventure. Off to Pakse to catch our flight to Luang Prabang.
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Luang Prabang Arriving in Luang Prabang late in the afternoon, we checked in at our hotel and trekked off for dinner at a local restaurant before settling down for some rest in preparation for what the next day would bring. Rising at a respectable hour the next morning, we had a breakfast of eggs and fried rice before heading out for the day. Travelling in the back of two open sided trucks, we drove through the countryside past farms and fields of rice and banana plants. Our first stop on this trip was at the Luang Prabang Elephant Camp where we got up close and personal with the gentle giants, The Asian elephant has long been used as the heavy lifting power behind the forestry industry in Asia. Their treatment in the forest camps is sometimes brutal and the animals are often overworked. Rescuing elephants that have been starved and abused in the forests, the sanctuary provides animals that can no longer work a place of safety and care. Visitors to the site can feed the elephants some tasty banana stalks which they take from your hand with their delicate trunks and crush in their jaws. They are particular though and will toss away food that they deem to be too tough. One precocious baby was particularly adept at finding pockets. Adult elephants can be ridden and it is a task that they seem to enjoy. Their handlers, the mahouts, guide riders along the trails through the grounds. The gentle creatures stand calmly while visitors pat them and pose for pictures. While typically docile, Asian elephants have been known to kill mahouts that have mistreated them. At the camp, they are kept on long leases while not giving rides. This is for their protection and the protection of the banana plants grown at the camp for food. They are allowed free reign regularly so they can forage in selected areas.
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From the Elephant Camp, we moved higher into the hills to the Kuang Si Falls. The falls begin in shallow pools atop a steep hillside. These lead to a 60 metre drop where water cascades down to the pools below. From the main pool, the water flows on to numerous turquoise blue pools as it flows downstream. Walking along the riverside trails, we found many smaller cascades and pools. The underlying rock here is travertine, a type of limestone that gives the water a turquoise iridescence that seems to glow in the sunlight filtering through the forest canopy. The entrance fees charged by the local people are used to maintain the walkways and bridges that guide the visitor. Most of the pools are open to swimming, however, at least one is considered sacred so swimming is not allowed. As we left the falls, we stopped at the markets to see what was on offer. Finding a barbeque stand, we tried some of the local kabobs. The chicken was seasoned and cooked to perfection. Elsewhere in the markets we found veggie chips in various flavours. Cuttlefish flavoured chips seem to be a big seller.
The site also contains a bear sanctuary where Asian bears can be found lounging and feeding in safety.
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The rest of the day was spent as free time in Luang Prabang where we took advantage of the afternoon to explore in small groups. Walking along the streets with no particular goal in mind, we passed wats and markets. Following locals we were content in just strolling along in the cool shade of the trees lining the side streets. One of us spotted a “fish spa” where tiny fish nibble at your feet to remove dead skin and, in the process, stimulate blood flow. Apparently it just tickles, and the little fish don’t have large jaws. At one wat we stopped to view the guardian Naga snakes that line the entrances to many of the city’s temples. Passing tuk-tuks and the many other vehicles on the errands, we made our way out onto the main street, a wide avenue that stretches from one side of the city to the other along the mighty Mekong. Further down the avenue, we stopped for a while to watch some monks hard at work repairing a stairway that leads to their monastery. Luckily, we had pocketed a map of the city so we could find our way back to our hotel. After rejoining the group, we set off under Chen’s guidance to have dinner at a local market. Thrumming with the throng of hundreds of other shoppers and diners the little market proved to be tight quarters. Finding our target, a stall heaped with vegetables, meat, sausages and rice, we loaded our bowls with what we desired then took the bowls to the cook who diligently heated everything in her wok. Sated, we walked back to the hotel for an evening of story telling over a few drinks.
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The next morning we looked forward to a free day. Once again, small groups set out to explore the city. Planning a long loop promenade through the city, four of us set out on a street that follows the Nam Khan River upstream from the Mekong. Along the way we found a little bridge standing out over the Nam Khan where we tested its stability for a few anxious moments. Proving sound, we walked out to take in the sights up and down river.
We moved on from the tranquil scenery at the river to climb the 355 steps of the Thanon Phousi staircase up to the summit of Mount Phousi and Wat Chomsi. About half way to the summit we stopped at Wat Tham Phousi, a small shrine with a rather large bellied Buddha. A little further uphill, we found a reclining Buddha, a fitting figure in this peaceful space.
It is customary for visitors to purchase a small bird in a little wicker cage at the bottom of the hill to bring to the summit for release with a prayer or wish.
A journey through Cambodia and Laos
A small pagoda stands near the top of the 100 meter tall stairway, signalling that we had arrived at our destination, Wat Chomsi. With its golden crown and umbrellas, Chomsi stands as the pinnacle feature of the little mountain. The terrace that surrounds the stupa is a favourite destination for viewing sunset over the Mekong and draws hundreds of visitors in the late afternoon, all vying for a prime spot.
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Descending a staircase on the opposite side of Mount Phousi, we exited out onto Sisavangvong Road across from the Royal Palace. Turning to the right, we walked on in search of Wat Sene. Along the way we stopped at several shops to view their wares and to watch people going in every direction the street offered and a few more. For a main street there was surprisingly little vehicular traffic making crossing less hair raising than in other cities. Passing a restaurant with a sign declaring that anyone found purloining silverware would be summarily thrown in the Mekong, we decided that it was time for a little sustenance and possibly some liquid refreshment. From the vantage point of the al fresco seating we managed to acquire, we did some further people watching. As we sat, enjoying our brief rest, we saw monks on whatever errands monks perform, their saffron robes adding more colour to the chaos of hues in the street. A motorbike went by with slightly more passengers than would be legal at home. Helmets are required by law but only a few are ever seen. Refreshed, it was time to move on. Continuing on our mission, we meandered as we pleased towards our goal for the afternoon, Wat Sene. Not in any particular rush, our progress took several abrupt detours as shiny things were spotted in store windows. Proceeding in a somewhat haphazard direction, we trekked onward to our first goal. Knees and shoulders covered and shoes put off, we entered into the grounds of Wat Sene, a temple built in 1718 by King Kitsarath using 100,000 stones from the Mekong river. Its name literally means "Temple of a 100,000 treasures.� Restoration of the wat took place in 1957 commemorating the Buddha’s birth 2500 years earlier. The temples at Wat Sene follow the architecture of the era of the king, sweeping roof lines topped with curved finials. A standing Buddha image cloaked in gold and a saffron shawl is a prominent feature at the wat. Other features at Wat Sene include a golden wagon and a large ceremonial drum. Several smaller temples and stupas populate the grounds offering ample opportunity for investigation. Half an hour later, we took to the streets once again to head for our next goal this afternoon, Wat Xieng Thong.
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Making good headway once again with Wat Xieng Thong only a few blocks away, we were stymied by the closure of the street. With a wedding in progress, the street was filled with tables, chairs, and hundreds of people in full party mode. Not having received an invitation, we chose a side alley and skirted the celebration. A few well selected, or lucky, turns later our goal was in sight. Wat Xieng Thong the “Temple of the Golden City" sits at the northern tip of the peninsula of Luang Prabang. This wat is one of the most important monasteries in Laos. It remains a significant monument to the spirit of religion, royalty and traditional art. Over twenty structures cover the grounds including shrines, pavilions, residences, and a sim. The sim is the traditional place where laypeople are ordained into the order of monks. The grounds also contain gardens of various flowers, ornamental shrubs and trees which bring nature into the environment. Built in 1559-1560 by the Lao King Setthathirath Wat Xieng Thong stands near the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Prior to 1975 the wat was a royal temple under the patronage of the royal family and the Lao kings were crowned in the wat. The buildings of the wat have carved gilded wooden doors depicting scenes from Buddha's life. In the sim the ceiling displays Dharmachakras, dharma wheels symbolising Buddhist law and the circle of reincarnation. The outer walls of the sim depict Lao legends and the rear gable is decorated with a glass mosaic depicting the tree of life. White pillars with jeweled tops catch the sunlight, throwing ever changing reflections out into the world. The doors to the gilded Funeral Chapel are covered with gilded relief carvings of figures from ancient times. Inside the chapel we found an ornate funerary carriage and many artifacts from the deep history of Buddhism in Laos.
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Leaving Wat Xieng Thong behind us, we walked back to the hotel with only slightly more urgency than our sortie started with. With our group reconstituted, Chen revealed his plans for dinner, a restaurant down the street that specializes in do it yourself barbeque. Each table is equipped with a hole that accepts first red hot coals then what looks like an upside down wok. Waiters bring your preferred items to the table and you do the rest. If it’s over or under cooked, you know who to talk to. Some of us opted for other delicacies like buffalo burgers and the like. Over the smells of grilling meat and some appropriate beverages, we related the stories of our various explorations. Well before dawn the next day, 5 of us joined Chen to take part in giving of alms to the monks on their morning walk to gather food for the day. Monks are not permitted to prepare their own food, relying on the kindness of others to provide their meals. We purchased some sticky rice and other items like biscuits and took our place seated on the sidewalk outside one of the monasteries. As the monks arrived, led by the eldest of their cadre, we spooned rice and dropped the other items into their bowls. As the youngest of the monks passed by, the alms giving came to an end and we rose to follow Chen to a nearby monastery to chat with a senior monk. Sitting on the floor in front of the 82 year old monk we responded to his questions about where we were from and listened, through Chen’s translation, to his comments on each response. He took particularly humorous interest in my mustache, uttering, between bouts of laughter “cut off,” as he mimed a moustache with his fingers. This monk definitely has a sense of humour. We received his blessing on us and our journey and left him to his breakfast. Back at the hotel, we had our breakfast and packed our bags for the trip to Vang Vieng. .
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Vang Vieng Vang Vieng is a tourist-oriented town in Vientiane Province about four hours bus ride north of the capital city. Built on the shores of the Nam Song River the town sits in a valley surrounded by limestone hills. First settled around 1353 as a staging post between Luang Prabang and Vientiane, the town has become a magnet for backpackers and other tourists. The attraction for young travellers is understandable as kayaking, zip lining, and hot air ballooning are popular activities amply provided here through local cooperatives. During our brief stay in Vang Vieng, we took advantage of several of those activities. Some people took to the skies via hot air balloons, soaring over the landscape quietly viewing the environs of the little town. After the ballooners returned most of the group headed off for the zip lines and kayaking on the river. Two ladies opted for a ride on one of the long-tail boats that zip up and downstream. Three of us walked over the bamboo bridge to the other side where a series of small huts sit out over the water to enjoy a quiet drink while we waited for the kayakers to return.
All parties back from their adventures, we trekked back to the hotel. Along the way we spotted cyclists with their umbrellas, a common sight here in Vang Vieng. After dinner, our younger members searched out some entertainment while the young at heart settled down on the hotel balcony to sample some wine acquired at a local market. A good day was had by all.
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Vientiane The penultimate stop on this G Adventure was Vientiane, a four hour ride from Vang Vieng though the scenic mountains of Northern Laos. Situated on the banks of the Mekong River near the border with Thailand, it is the capital and largest city of Laos. Founded sometime in the 11th century CE, the city became a major economic hub in the region. Fearing invasion from Burma, the capital was moved from Luang Prabang to Vientiane in 1563. Arriving late in the day, we had time to unpack and explore the markets around our hotel before dinner. That night would be our last dinner together as a group as two people were leaving us before we caught our midnight train to Bangkok the next night. We dined well and drank to memories both shared and personal. We set out the next morning to delve into the sights that awaited. Travelling by tuk-tuk, we reached our first destination, Wat Si Saket. Wat Si Saket was built in 1818 on the order of King Anouvong. The wat was the home of the Emerald Buddha before it was removed to Bangkok. Built in the Siamese style of Buddhist architecture, with a surrounding terrace and an ornate five-tiered roof, it stands in contrast to the Lao style temples seen elsewhere. This may have kept it safe, since the armies of Siam that sacked Vientiane in 1827 used the compound as their headquarters. Surviving relatively unscathed, Wat Si Saket may be the oldest temple still standing in Vientiane. Today the wat serves as a museum of Buddhist culture. Around the site, we found many stupas and small shrines honouring the Buddha. Wat Si Saket features a cloister sheltering more than 2,000 ceramic and silver Buddha images.
Donning our shoes, we turned from Wat Si Saket to set out on the tuk-tuks for our next destination.
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The Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise (COPE) was our next focus of attention. COPE is a locally run non-profit organisation working with the Ministry of Health’s Center of Medical Rehabilitation and four provincial rehabilitation centres in partnership to provide comprehensive rehabilitation assistance for Unexploded Ordnance (UXO) survivors and other people with disabilities across Laos. The story told by COPE is disheartening in its revelations and uplifting in the response of thousands of volunteers to help victims of a war that was not theirs. During the Vietnam War, about 260,000,000 million apple-sized bomblets were dropped on Laos between 1964 and 1973. Most of the cluster bombs were released in the mountains bordering Vietnam and the Ho Chi Minh trail in over 580,000 bombing missions carried out by the US Airforce. Around 30% of the bombs failed to explode on impact but remained “live” lying in forests and fields. As a result, thousands of people have been killed or injured since 1973. Teams of bomb disposal personnel continue to comb the eastern countryside in search of the unexploded terror that still results in injury and death 43 years later. A sculpture standing outside the education centre was made from over 1000 pounds of UXO including cluster bombs. Brought to life by a local artist in 2008 it stands in memory of the 50,000 Laotians who died or who have been injured by UXOs between 1964 to the present. Reflecting on what we had seen and heard, we left the centre and moved on to Patuxai, the Victory Gate.
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Patuxai, the Victory Gate, stands in the middle of Vientiane near the government centre. Built between 1957 and 1968, when Laos was a constitutional monarchy, it was originally known simply as the Anousavali (memory), dedicated as a memorial to the Laotian soldiers who died during World War II and the independence war from France in 1949. In 1975 when the communist republic overthrew the monarchy, the arch was renamed Patuxai in honour of their victory. Using American funds and cement actually intended to build a new airport, the Royal Laotian Government instead built the monument, which earned it the nickname of the "vertical runway." Designed to echo the Arc de Triumph in Paris, Patuxai also exhibits the traditions of Laotian style with pagoda-like structures on its summit and decorations including mythological creatures such as the half-female, half-bird kinnari. Visitors can climb the seven stories to the parapet to look out over the park and the surrounding city The arch sits at one end of a long park counterpointed at the far end by a circular fountain and the World Peace Gong. The park, with its verdant lawns and numerous trees, is a favourite gathering place for local people and tourists.
We took some time to wander through the park before going on to the Pha That Luang national monument and temple.
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Pha That Luang or 'Great Stupa' is a large gold-covered Buddhist stupa in the centre of Vientiane. Initial construction of the great stupa was in the 3rd century CE. The stupa has undergone several reconstructions owing to foreign invasions of the area. It is regarded as the most important national monument in Laos and stands as a national symbol. The central stupa is believed to contain a relic, possibly the breast bone of Buddha Gautama, carried to the site by five Arahata monks who brought the holy relic to Laos. The great plaza around the golden stupa is occupied by several ornate temples and monuments to historic figures. Walking through the plaza, we passed by a couple dressed in traditional Laotian costume heading off to some celebration at the Great Stupa. Other visitors meandered through the grounds on missions of personal discovery or to pay reverence to the Buddha. Like part of a well worn ritual, we made our way back to our hotel to retrieve our belongings before heading across the boarder back into Thailand to catch the night train to Bangkok. Travelling first class in a sleeper car, we sat in small groups sharing stories and memories of the trip. Sometime in the night, the air-conditioning failed and first class became third class. Like trying to sleep in a toaster oven, the rest of the trip was a little uncomfortable. The company refunded part of our fare, a gesture which allowed us to eat a sumptuous breakfast in Bangkok. Having completed our mutual adventure, we said our goodbye’s and like leaves once bound to the tree, we dropped away in two’s and three’s to let ourselves be carried away on the breeze to other places.
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Epilogue With another tick on the bucket list, some notes on our journey are in order. The wats and temples that we visited are cultural and holy places that deserve respect from visitors regardless of their faith or culture. Removal of shoes and covering of knees is a simple sign of respect not only for the cultural heritage of the land, but also for the people . The Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum are grim places to visit. Many tourists avoid the sites opting for more entertaining activities. As a group, we were glad that we did visit the sites to learn about the atrocities that took place under the Khmer Rouge. As the saying goes, ‘those who are ignorant of history are bound to repeat it.’ Our home stay on Don Daeng was part of G Adventure’s commitment to assist local communities. All proceeds from our fees for being graciously hosted by village families is funneled back into the community to improve infrastructure initiatives like sewage treatment and providing clean water. Luang Prabang is a beautiful city that felt safe and comfortable as we strolled along the streets and explored alleys. Participating in the pre-dawn offering of alms to the monks was a highlight for me and the others. Even though I was admonished to “cut off” my moustache, it still remains as a reminder of the old monk who took delight in teasing me. The Luang Prabang Elephant Camp is associated with the Sayaboury Elephant Conservation Centre where their mahouts are trained in all aspects of humane care. The Elephants that are rescued and brought to the camp are well cared for and appear to be happy in their new home. Vang Vieng is a truly picturesque town. While we enjoyed our time there, I hope that we left it no worse for wear. Signs around the little town request visitors to show respect for local customs and most visitors comply but a good number don’t, forgetting that being in a foreign land is not license to ignore local customs. The great “Night Train to Bangkok” adventure turned out to be a humorous reminder that the Buddha’s concept of the impermanence of all things applies to air conditioners as well. The rather sweaty final leg of our journey made the cool morning air of Bangkok all the more welcome. I would be remiss in not thanking G Adventures and our CEO Chenda Sor for making this journey a possibility. I would also be errant in not thanking my travel companions for all the memories and laughter. Thinking back on all that our band of adventurers saw and experienced on our whirlwind tour through this part of Indochina, I simply offer up a heartfelt arkoun to Cambodia and khob chai to Laos.
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@ J Nicklin, 2016 Mekong Adventure
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