A weird and wonderful guide to Lisbon
ISBN 978–84–612–3225–3 Published by LE COOL PUBLISHING SL Design by Silva! Designers Printed in Barcelona, Spain by Novo Print on paper manufactured from sustainable forests Designed and written in Lisbon, Portugal © LE COOL 2008 All rights reserved.
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11 Braço de Prata 12 Cais do Sodré 13 Cp. Mártires da P átria 14 Castelo 15 Estefânia
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28 Praça de Espanha 29 Rato 30 Saldanha
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32 São B ento 33 Sé 34 Xab
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Sleeping 12/29 Moving Around 33/45 Eating 46/81 Graphic 85/93 Art Core 94/97 Drinking 98/107 Going Out 111/141
Party Calendar 142/143 Gay 144/151 Tattoo 155/157 Drugs 158/159 Weird 160/169 Shopping 185/215 Lisbon Chill Out Tour 219/225 Where the Grass is Greener 226/229 Starry Sundays 230/231 Away from the City 232/243
Santa Catarina 30/32 São Jorge 82/84 São Roque 108/110 Carmo 152/154 Sant’Ana 170/172 São Vicente 182/184 São André 216/218
Lisbon People 173/181 Maps 244/255 About LE COOL 256/259 Index 260/261 Credits 262/263
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You’re about to open the door to your room. Three questions are buzzing around your travel-tired brain: Could I sleep here? Could I have sex here? Will I be scared when I look in the shower? If you take our advice, then the answers are yes, emphatically yes, and absolutely not.
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BACKPACKERS
The hard part is choosing. Portuguese hostels are among the best in the world. Expect the basics – comfortable rooms, clean shared bathrooms – and experience the perks – free Internet, DVD screenings, great chill-out areas, laundry service and 24-hour kitchens. Low cost (between €18 and €30 a night) and high quality, the guys who run the hostels are either crazy or just love their jobs. They all try to outdo one another, and they take real pleasure in welcoming guests. Some will even take you out for the evening, guide you to the best bars and get you free drinks. What more do you want? Here’s some of our favourites.
Oasis Backpackers Mansion Rua de Santa Catarina, 24 (Bica) www.oasislisboa.com 21 347 80 44
Lemon Hostel Rua da Rosa, 295 (Bairro Alto) lisbonlemonhostel@yahoo.com 21 343 00 49 14 sleeping
Travellers House Rua Augusta, 89, 1st floor (Baixa/Chiado) www.travellershouse.com 21 011 59 22
m Lisbon Lounge Hostel Rua de São Nicolau, 41 (Baixa/Chiado) www.lisbonloungehostel.com 21 346 20 61
Lisbon’s Poets Hostel Rua do Duque, 41 (Baixa/Chiado) www.lisbonpoetshostel.com 21 346 10 58
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16 sleeping
Goodnight Backpackers Hostel Rua dos Correeiros 113, 2nd floor (Baixa/Chiado) 21 343 01 39
Lisbon Old Town Hostel Rua do Ataíde, 26A (Bica) www.lisbonoldtownhostel.com 21 346 52 48 Alfama Pátio Hostel Rua das Escolas Gerais, 3 Pátio dos Quintalinhos 1 (Alfama) www.flash-hostels.com 21 888 31 27
ROOMS WITH A VIEW
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BAIRRO ALTO HOTEL
This is where the arty crowds stay when they descend upon Lisbon. The thrills to the sight bohemian heart of Lisbon throbs here, and your bohemian heart will skip a beat too if it thrills to the sight of 18th-century buildings painstakingly retro-fitted into contemporary boutique hotels. There’s a decent bar at the entrance, but on sunny days it’s all about the upstairs terrace with its soporific sofas and vistas down the Rua do Alecrim. The suites, with their pocket doors and clawfoot tubs, are grand, but those 5th floor rooms tucked under the mansard roof are the sweetest of all. Largo de Camões (Baixa/Chiado) 21 340 82 88 From €200 www.bairroaltohotel.com
HOTEL DO CHIADO
Architect Siza Vieira’s five-star offering is an Asian/ post-mod Portuguese mashup. Weird, but it works. So does their roast beef sandwich, best eaten out on the terrace. Rua Nova do Almada, 114 (Baixa/Chiado) 21 325 61 00 Doubles from €178
PENSÃO NINHO DAS ÁGUIAS
Thirty-eight vertiginous spiral steps lead you in. A stuffed eagle awaits you at the reception. Despite the Hitchcockian undertones, this romantic, affordable pensão is unexpectedly warm and inviting. Ask your friends over for a drink – you can help yourself from the fridge by the entrance – then pick a perch in the garden terrace and gawk at a bird’s-eye view of the city. Costa do Castelo 74 (Castelo) 21 885 40 70 Single from €25; double from €35
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sleeping  21
DESIGN The floors of the Fontana Park Hotel HOTELS are completely black.
If this doesn’t convince you, maybe the completely white seafood restaurant will. Unsurprisingly, design addicts love this place. Rooms are what might expect: carefully designed, but a bit cold and in need of your presence to add a touch of warmth and personality. Fontana Park Hotel – Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva, 2 (Saldanha) 23 157 62 12. www.fontanaparkhotel.com From €140
One of its best features of Lisbon’s original Design Hotel is that it’s away from the centre, near the Belém gardens, historical settings and the Cultural Centre. A warm touch and special attention to details make it cosy, with that slick sheen to everything that design junkies love. Jerónimos 8 – Rua dos Jerónimos, 8 (Belém) 21 360 09 00. www.jeronimos8.com From €120
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Gay Friendly Hotels
Lavra Guest House Tasteful design inside 18th-century walls give you an ancient/modern sleeping experience, on the same street where one of the most famous fado divas, Amália Rodrigues, was born. There are plenty rooms on offer choose from; we choose the top-floor suite, for its beautiful design, great terrace and stunning view. Calçada de Sant’Ana, 198 A (Campo Mártires da Pátria) www.lavra.pt 21 882 00 00 Double rooms: €49-€60 Suite: €120 24 sleeping
Solar dos Mouros For refined tastes. The owner of this quiet cosmopolitan hotel is also an artist, hence all the inspiring details, including its own gallery. Like others, it’s not only for gay guests, and is very friendly. Rua do Milagre de Santo António, 6 (Castelo) www.solardosmouros.com 21 885 49 40 €88 – €370
Pouso dos Anjos The best is the garden in the back, a real chillout Eden smack in Lisbon’s multicultural heart. The décor is Moroccan inspired, the place is quiet and the rooms are ample and clean. Pouso dos Anjos means ‘Angels’ Resting Place’, and at the entrance you’ll be welcomed by a really cute one… Rua dos Anjos 31 (Martim Moniz) www.pousadadosanjos.com 21 357 27 59 €45 – €150
Hotel Anjo Azul Outspokenly gay, very comfortable, clean with colourful and modern décor. It couldn’t be better located, on a quiet street in Bairro Alto. Rua Luz Soriano, 75 (Bairro Alto) www.anjoazul.com 21 347 80 69 €40 – €80
Pensão Globo Hotel Anjo Azul’s younger sister, perfect for solo travellers wanting a room of their own. Rua do Teixeira, 37 (Bairro Alto) www.anjoazul.com 21 346 22 79 €25 – €60 sleeping 25
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Sleeping with history
As Janelas Verdes is an 18th-century palace with almost the same unto uched atmosphere as when Eça de novelist from the 1800s, used to hang Queirós, a famous out there. His favourite place, and so is ours, was the library of the probably had many a delicious sunn top floor, but he y breakfast on the hidden terrace too. Some say it was here he got house in his best-known book, ‘Os the inspiration for the Maias’. Dona Palmira – the incredibly sweet woman who looks after the you feel at home. Rua das Janelas place – makes Verdes, 47 (Santos); 21 396 81 43; www .asjanelasverdes.com; €180 – 299
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Correia, and that and of the famous writer Natalia place used to belong to the husb the knew nia and 50s, they saw s Britâ 1940 l the Hote of from ers os The own But when they found some phot co. Bran iano Cass itect there, and that arch by held the original building was bridge championships were extravagant meetings and famous that d ing back vere peel disco ed They start . They story r ing. othe a whole nificent Art Deco build l block had previously been a mag stop until they turned dn’t coul They s. the cold and personality-free hote room bath le tiful handpainted frescos and marb as a classic the plaster on the walls to find beau unique building has been reborn s locks, to windows and beds, this door from re: the budget. have you if too, it all into what it was befo stay to e plac students to gawp at. And a gorgeous piece of Art Deco for architecture .com; €135 – 475 e); 21 315 50 16; www.hotel-britania rdad (Libe 17 , Rua Rodrigues Sampaio
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Have €3,000 to spare? Then the presidential suite in the Sheraton is for you. The view from the 25th floor is one of the best in the city, and if that isn’t enough, why not play a quick tune on the beautiful piano by the door (they have a thing for incredible pianos in this hotel), flick on the stereo and plasma-screen TV, and then chill out in each of the dressing, meeting and sleeping rooms. Still feeling a little stressed? Then turn on the taps in the Jacuzzi bathtub, with its own built-in pillows, step into the bubbling water and gaze out over the city from the huge windows. Don’t forget to invite us onto your balcony for a drink at sunset… Sheraton Presidential Suite Rua Latino Coelho, 1 (Saldanha) 21 312 00 00; €3000 p/night
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Residencial Alegria Praça da Alegria, 12 (Liberdade) 21 322 06 70; www.alegrianet.com; From €43
The founder of IKEA, Ingvar Kamper, has a reputation being cheap. He catches the bus to work, he likes his furniture no frills, wears clothes until they fill with holes. And yet he also cares a great deal about quality. So, when he visits Lisbon, he stays in Residencial Alegria. It’s a no-frills, great-value, centrally located place that, like a Billy Bookcase, does everything without any fuss and at a price that’s good even enough for Ingvar.
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santa catarina hill
It has highs, lows and everything in between. There are old women who live next to junkies. There are endless steps, alleys and byways that will leave you breathless and thirsty for a lemonade at Noobai. There are rainbow-coloured stencils of Fernando Pessoa, keeping an eye on the urinals that overlook the river. When the sun rises over the city’s myriad red rooftops, the early birds at the miradouro get their fun by counting all the crazy twisted-wire antennae below. During the day, you can get lost in Santa Catarina’s ups and downs, where you’ll happily stumble upon the dome of the Estrela Basilica, the green muses who give light to Art Nouveau in the lamps of the Associação Nacional de Farmácias, the Travessa da Portuguesa, stray cats that scurry away from the taunting feet of children, women who lean out of their windows to chat, old stone fountains… Gorge yourself in one of the tascas and listen to the footy on the radio alongside drunken old men. In the late afternoon, tune in to the sun sinking into the Tagus while sipping tea in the company of the Adamastor statue, or bring a bottle of wine to share with intrepid sailors. In the evening, sit out on the stoops of the old houses on the steep incline of Bica, drinking pints and chatting with the artists and the locals. Just don’t take it too far. If you stumble, you might roll all the way downhill into the Tagus. 32
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Like the look of the trams but you don’t know which to catch? Here’s the best way to tram the city, in the order you should take them.
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TRAM 12: Carousel line: ride in circles through the old part of town Stops: Pç da Figueira + Martim Moniz + Lg Portas do Sol (amazing view) + Sé (old cathedral) + Rua Fanqueiros + Pr. Figueira 08.00 – 20.30 TRAM 15: Riverside line: follow the River Tagus Stops: Pç. Figueira (skater hangout) + Pç Comércio + Cais Sodré (alternative night destination) + Santos + 24 de Julho + Alcântara + Belém (cakes, culture) + Algés 05.10 – 00.55 Trams cost €1.35
TRAM 25: Giant L line: from old rich to trendy poor Stops: Alfândega + Praça Comércio (central square, former commercial centre) + Rua São Paulo + Santos (design district) + Lapa (old money) + Estrela + Campo Ourique 07.00 – 21.10 TRAM 28: Gazing line: see most of the city in one go Stops: Martim Moniz + Graça (high up, near the castle) + Sé + Largo Belas Artes + Chiado (trendy) + Largo Camões + Cç Combro + Cç Estrela (famous church, garden) + Campo Ourique (Prazeres) (traditional neighbourhood) 05.40 – 23.10
If you’re finding it hard to climb Lisbon’s hills, another good option are the four historic ascensores/elevadores. They are: Lavra (from Calçada do Lavra), Bica (Rua de São Paulo), Glória (Restauradores) and Santa Justa (Rua do Ouro) Costs between €1 and €2.70 07.00–21.00 (Glória until midnight) moving around 35
Learn Lisbon on Foot
rting at
Two ways to get to the castle, sta
through rro Alto, go around it Instead of entering Bai ro de Ped São the ch rea Rua D. Pedro V until you lk down nt on your left. Then wa Alcântara viewing poi you get en Wh Glória tramline. next to the Elevador da the of one s, ore rad tau in Res to the bottom, you are . bon Lis main squares in
Cross the square, and look up Aven ida da Liberdade, a very small version of something like Fifth Avenue, and don’t forget to check out Parque Eduardo VII on your left. Enter the street next to the Hard Rock Café and you’ll find yourself in Rua das Port as de Santo Antão, the old theatrical and cinematic heart of the city with the Coliseum in its middle, now filled with touristy restaurants.
Length: around one hour
Turn right and keep wa lking until the end of the street where you’ll find Praça da Figueira, a square of mixed cul tures and generations. Go to the most southe ast corner, where Ade ga da Mó restaurant is, and turn right onto Rua da Madalena. Walk un til you find an entran ce with stairs called “Escad inhas de São Cristovão ” on your left. This is you r secret entrance to the Castle neighbourhoo d. reach Largo de São you til un irs Keep climbing the sta right past the ATM Go . church Cristovão, with a little ão do Loureiro, Ch do do rca Me to and continue up up Chapitô ng goi p Kee e. with its stunning terrac ool sign. sch us the big circ street, look up and see s. oad ssr Walk past it to the cro
There you’ll spot a hand-painted sign pointing left that says “castelo”. That’s the castle. Walk up to the entrance, go in and then celebrate with a cold drink overlooking the city from the café perched on the ancient stone walls.
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Pr
ga a ce vão”
Start walking down Ru a da Escola Politécnica towards Bai rro Alto. Enjoy the friendly neighbourhoo d vibe as you walk, until you get to Largo de Camões, the city’s most popular meeting place. ast Garret p wn Rua , o o d d g ia h in do, walk Armazéns do C treet. to Chia l s ft ti e n le th u f e rn Tu anc nd o at the e with way entr the sub ing warehouse art of the city, y. At the p p b p g n o in ta h s s li s o e a p p e th y cosmo young people ttle picturesqu ll a re a It’s ht to ops and left pass the li g h s ri f o rn turn plenty , and tu built by e street, ing fado end of th t’s always play azing structure am tha old car Justa, an r Santa l. Elevado of Gustav Eiffe le ip c is ad Keep heading straight and cross Rua do Ouro and Rua dos Sapateiros until Rua Aug usta, a main artery in downto wn life. Turn right and kee p going straight until Arco do Triunfo, our own mini version of the famous Parisian arch. Walk past it and turn left throug h beautiful d walk until arcades that will lead you an ht rig rn tu s, co to Bi s do sa Ca it, g Facin Campo das Cebolas, wh rn down ere you Jesus, and then tu n he W you find Arco de t. can lef see ur Casa dos Bicos, an Go Jazz bar on yo thic passing the Onda left to architecural treat built ão da Praça, turn in 1523 Jo o Sã a Ru ch ad He e. you rea nc and tra kno en wn od for its strange façade neighbourho the Alfama’s old , (everyone’s of sharpened spouts. nt of “Pois, Café” fro in ss pa d an t lef has t spot) to Escadin and enter the favourite breakfas Cross the street lated means ns tra ich wh s, atro Romano. en do Quebra Costa door that says Te reaking stairs”. Th k-b ac to the castle “b e up t lik g tcu in or someth It’s a sh with Fabula Urbis ad ro in ruins. Leave ma n e th ma you’ll reach past some Ro in Lisbon’s ng isi ial ec sp op through its sh on your right – a the Roman theatre t, going up. lef ad he d history. top door an Milagre do a Ru When you reach w the llo fo o, ni tó An o de Sant u to the castle. signs that lead yo Length: around 40 minutes
of ra,
irro Alto
Príncipe Real’s garden, north of Ba
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1.
Start at Campo das Cebolas (Baixa/Chiado), go up the dark stairway between two arches, Arco da Conceição and Arco De Jesus, to a street called Largo Marquês do Lavradio. From here, walk to the left, uphill. When you reach a fork in the road, take the right‑hand street to Travessa São João da Praça. Go up the stone stairs and turn right at the bar that sells sangria (nº14). Go straight on and then turn right again to find a hidden little square containing a poem from famous writer António Botto, a special place to be as the sun sets. Turn back (retracing your steps through winding streets is what Alfama is all about) and head straight, then when you get a choice, take the road on the left to the palm tree of Largo de São Miguel. Go up the stairs next to the plaque saying “Rua da Regueira” to reach a street called Beco do Carneiro. On your way up the stairs, turn right to stop by Miradouro das Portas do Sol and Miradouro das Santa Luzia, two great spots to enjoy the view.
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2.
Walk in through the “Arco da Conceição” arch (between Rua dos Bacalhoeiros and Campo das Cebolas) immediately after “Casa Dos Bicos”, that weird looking building all-covered in spouts. You’ll come out at the street called Afonso de Albuquerque, then walk up the hill to a cathedral wall, past an exotic arabesque window.
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As you walk around the city, keep your eyes open for small courtyards, strange domes and beautiful window patterns. Nearly nine hundred years after the Moors left Lisbon, the influence of their architecture and design can still be found, if you know where to look.
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Casa do Alentejo
The Arab-‑influenced 17th century courtyard will make your jaw drop, so fill your open mouth with their fantastic food from the south of Portugal. Rua Portas de Santo Antão, 58 (Baixa/Chiado)
Cinemateca, Museu do Cinema
Dedicated to more cinematic arts, it’s worth a visit for a look at the domed ceiling. Rua Barata Salgueiro, 39 (Liberdade)
Praça de Touros
The bullring in Campo Pequeno was first opened in 1892, and like many in Southern Spain, it’s hugely influenced by Moorish domes and arches. Just ignore the shopping mall in the basement. Praça do Campo Pequeno (Campo Pequeno)
Palacete Conceição e Silva The façade of this Romanesque/ neo-Moorish mansion is divided into three levels, each with delicate Mudéjar details. Avenida da Liberdade, 226 (Liberdade)
Estação do Rossio
Quite simply one of the most beautiful buildings in Lisbon. And it’s a train station. Go in and look up. Praça D. Pedro IV (Rossio)
Azulejos
Those blue tiles you see decorating the city came originally from Moorish craftsmanship. Look around the Chiado and Bairro Alto areas and around the area from Rossio up to the São Jorge Castle. moving around 41
What better way to cope with Lisbon’s hills than to glide over them? Silencetour offers off-road Segways for
tours of the Sintra Hills and along the waterfront of the city centre at Parque das Nações. www.silencetour.pt Go Segway offers a different model with smaller wheels, and tours that include wine tasting and shopping while you Seg. www.gosegwaytours.com
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Bikes are great. Environmentally friendly, great exercise… Just one thing: downhill is easy, but uphill can be a challenge. If your thighs aren’t up to it, rent a scooter. Scooters Scooter Mania Rua do Cruxifixo, 17 (Baixa/Chiado) 21 346 71 44 09.00 – 20.00 www.scooter-mania.pt €10 to €25 a day (15 days max.) Over 18s only. Bring your driving licence.
Bikes www.biclas.com Largo de São Julião, 21 (Baixa/Chiado); 21 017 11 65 €15 a day or €25 weekend
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MALAPOSTA THEATRE
MR. STOLEN
NO IDEA
NEVERMIND PICNIC PARK
KEEP MOVING NO HARD FEELINGS LITTLE DEAD END
GOWNTOWN DIM LIT STREET WHAT?
ANNUAL CARTOON FESTIVAL TRAINING SUIT
SUBVERSIVEWAY 44 moving around
COLUMBUS NIGHTMARE
MIND THE GAP
ZOO S.A.
LATE MUNCHIES ON WHEELS
HIES HEELS
FUTURAMA
INDUSTRIAL
BEDETECA
SAM’S HOOD
UGLY VIEW
FREE ORANGES
CUP CAKES TRY AGAIN
HALF WAY TO SOMEWHERE RAGING BULL GULBENKIAN LOVE GARDENS
FIND THE FLAG
CMYK
IURD EMPIRE
MOVIES
PRAWN AVENUE
FRENCH KISS
ANGEL’S SOUP INSIDE DEEP THROAT
MERRY-GO-ROUND
CHAMPS ELISÉES TOURIST TRAP OF MICE AND MEN
MELTING POT DRUNKEN TOURISTS SQUARE
TRAINSPOTTING
HILL’S DOCK
DOWNTOWN
AFTER HOURS moving around 45
eating From salty soft codfish to the sugar-rush tingle of egg tarts, eating in Lisbon is one of the wonders of Europe. If you don’t take back a few extra pounds as a souvenir, then you haven’t enjoyed yourself properly. (You’ll work the weight off in no time, but the memories will fill your mind forever.) Eat slowly, eat well, eat everything on your plate. Welcome to Lisbon. Where did you take your taste buds this year?
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breakfast breakfast
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Lisbon’s oldest downtown pastry shop is the perfect place to start the day the traditional, sweet way. Praça da Figueira, 18B (Baixa/Chiado) www.confeitarianacional.com brunch
Museu do Chiado
Sit on the lovely terrace and give yourself a luxury boost with eggs, caviar and mimosas. Rua Serpa Pinto 6 (Baixa/Chiado)
breakfast
take your time
in style
Confeitaria Nacional
C.C. o Século
A versatile “Advanced Art Cultural Centre” that also serves a mean breakfast. Rua do Século, 80 (Bairro Alto) www.oseculo.com
brunch
Pois, Café
A comfortable Austrian coffeehaus with great food, a variety of sofas and tables, plus newspapers and magazines from around Europe. Rua de São João da Praça, 95 (Alfama)
enjoy the view
s
vs brunch breakfast
Deli Delux
This riverfront gourmet shop also does amazing breakfasts on weekends and holidays, out on its terrace. One of the few options for bagel lovers. Av. Infante D. Henrique Armazém B Loja 8 (Santa Apolónia) brunch
Noobai
Catch some sun, feel the city, smell the river, eat a big brunch. Smile. Miradouro de Santa Catarina (south of Bairro Alto) eating 49
12.00–15.00 nt restaura a with building own their have ones These nuns. mean Freiras all is the view. Be a saint and feed some visit on sunny days. The food is homemade, but the best thing of of the ritual. part all It’s rice or bread to the little birds that hop on to your table.
Everything included for €5. Simple, hidden and fairly clean, they serve great samosas, pakoras, badjias, curry and tandoori in more than decent portions.
Taste of Pakistan R. S. Pedro Mártir, 37 B (Martim Moniz), 93 671 22 77, Open seven days a week
Mon–Fri ACISJF (aka As Freiras) €5–€8, Travessa do Ferragial, 1, 3rd (Baixa/Chiado), on the top floor that we love to
Fava Rica Praça Martim Moniz (corner with Hotel Mundial-Martim Mon Back in the day, men would eat warm iz), 10.00-19.00ish bean soup on their way home from working around the castle. The owner of this “quiosque”, a guy from northern Spain, fell in love with the city, heard the story and decided to bring gastronomic histo ry back to life. €2 gets you an awar d-winning soup called Fava Rica (The Rich Bean), as well as a chan ce to buy books or paintings from him too.
Quiosque
Rua das Farinhas, 1 (Ca stelo), Closed: Sundays Have lunch, a drink and a coffee for €5 at this Italian restaurant. The ir speciality is “farinheira” pasta, and the mood is always calm and unpretentio us. Their location makes it a great place to start or finish a wander around the cas tle neighbourhood. Tacho & Tapas Rua da Atalaia, 13 (Bairro Alto), Lunch: 12.30-15.00, 1 portion: €4,95 Half a portion of a home-cooked meal for €3.90 should be enough for all but the emptiest stomachs. The food is always tasty at this friendly, brother-and-sister-run small place in the middle of Bairro Alto. They offer fish, meat and vegetarian options.
Cantina Baldraca
50 eating
of your
winning soup called Fava Rica him too.
balina (Sandw Don’t be pu iches, savour t off by the ies and fres suckling pi “The King of h juices) Ru gs in the w a Comér lemonades indow. Insi lives on”, ar tropical ilk, de, on the sh cio, 2–4 (Baixa/Chiad e papayas, all awaiting o) elf w mangoes, or death by ju anges and ot here it says icer. hers of sim ilar
Nova Pom
(cafeteria/patisserie) Rua dos Correeiros, 22/26 (Baixa/Chiado) In a street filled with examples of the “Hey, you there, tourist !” school of restaurant is a tropical paradise. It may look like a patisserie cro ssed with a canteen, but if you tak e a closer look, you’ll see that the win dow is filled with colourful jugs. He re lives a shrine to fruit and the variou s ways it can be served. Think simple fru it salads. Think embellishments on top , such as fresh, tasty yoghurt. Think fresh sea sonal fruit. Think the magic of juices, sm ack in the centre of the busy Baixa.
A Magia dos Sumos
att a dri It’s hot and you need seats, plus the cheerful ing. Inside are just two ask the for rs you is s dream eeze. Artur. Ask them for a squ
va do Almada and the lemonade Merendinha Bar Rua No . Scrounge up 80 cents, Sr. nk. Water is not enough entions of Sr. José and
, 45A (Baixa/Chiado)
ce to buy books or paintings from
(The Rich Bean), as well as a chan
eating 51
Snack Time
52 eating
To grab a bite in Portuguese is “petiscar”. It’s an essential piece of Lisbon vocabulary, and to do it properly, you have to know where to go.
Snack in Parisian-style at Café do Monte (Rua de São Gens, 1 – Graça). The wine-red walls set the tone for the fine bottles they serve. Ask for the cheese board and settle in for the evening.
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More urbane and modern is the organic Royale Café (Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 29 – Baixa/Chiado). The small, interior garden gets busy on sunny days, when we recommend the mascarpone tart and the salmon sandwiches, accompanied by one of the fresh juices on the menu. If the weather ’s cold, instead order a mint tea and sesame-seed cake.
In Cais do Sodré, you’ll find the British Bar (Rua Bernardino Costa, fine 52), the only bar in Lisbon with an in-house shoe-shiner. With its woodwork, it used to be the local hangout of Portuguese writer José Cardoso Pires. Try the steak sandwiches, also known as a “prego”.
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day, bit more intimate on a summer’s If you’re looking for something a y dizz you send will ) 4 – Baixa/Chiado Vertigo Café (Travessa do Carmo, ic, a wide mus e indi and ge vinta of ns with excitement. To the strai e their divine chocolate cake. selection of teas are served alongsid
You can’t get more traditional and yet modern than a revamped tavern in the heart of the city. That would be Verde Perto (Rua Costa do Castelo, 26 – Castelo), offering sweet and savoury crepes, freshly squeezed juices and some great half-portion salads. The owners are great, and they often hold handmade-jewellery exhibitions.
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Yes, there are meals in Lisbon without meat or fish. And they’re served in some of the most places in the city. An international vegetarian failsafe, the local Hare Krishna temple serves great cheap lunches (around €8). If in doubt, follow the smell of incense and the petals on the floor. It has a peaceful, open-air patio, and the smiling saffronrobed serving staff can cheer up any grey day. Jardim dos Sentidos is also a place for silence, though this time dinner is followed not with a chant but a few hot stones on your back. This restaurant doubles up as a therapy centre (and greengrocer), offering massages before or after your Indian/Oriental-inspired food. They do evening meals but the weekday lunches are a real find at €7.50 for a full buffet. Psi wins our heart for its décor and delicious desserts. It’s like an oasis in the middle of a traffic jam. You can choose the company of the piano inside, or sit outside in a little marquee in the garden. They sometimes hold conferences, courses, and vegetarian markets. So chilled, even the Dalai Lama came by on his last visit. If you’re near Avenida da Liberdade, surrounded by suits, find your inner calm in Os Tibetanos, a cosy Tibetan-inspired restaurant with a Buddhist school upstairs. A corner of the Himalayas in the centre of town, its little garden is the perfect place to enjoy its excellent food. They also sell Buddhist-related items. Arrive around 12pm to avoid the lunchtime crowds. If you happen to be in the multicultural Avenida Almirante Reis, don’t miss out on Bem-me-Quer. The best side to this hidden ovo-lacto-vegetarian restaurant (besides being cheap and having a real homely feel), is that it’s also a tea-house and a delicious chocolate shop.
Os Tibetanos Rua do Salitre, 117 (Liberdade) 12.00 –14.00 and 19.00– 21.30 21 314 20 38
Psi
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Alameda St. António dos Capuchos, Jardim dos Sabores (Campo Mártires da Pátria); 12.00 - 23.00; Closed Sundays and public holidays www.restaurante-psi.com 21 359 05 73
Hare Krishna
Bem-me-quer
Rua Dona Estefânia, 91 R/c (Estefânea); Mon–Fri: 12.00–15.00 Sat - Sun: closed 21 314 03 14
Avenida Almirante Reis, 152, R/C Esq. (Anjos) Mon–Wed: 09.00–19.00 Thu–Fri: 09.00–22.30 Sat: 09.00–16.00; Sun: closed 21 847 66 78
Jardim dos Sentidos Rua da Mãe de Água, 3 (Liberdade) Lunch buffet: Mon - Fri Sat: lunch only, Sun: closed 21 342 36 70
Espaço da Rosa Rua Acácio de Paiva, Loja 11A (Bairro Alto); 21 847 94 49
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Tasca Zé dos Cornos
Lunch is better, especially if it’s Tuesday or Saturday. Why? Because the famous Entrecosto com Arroz de Feijão (pork ribs with beans and rice) will be served. You’ll also see a pretty good mix of Portuguese people, as everybody comes to this family-style restaurant, from construction workers to executives. Do as they do by asking for a bottle of house red or white to go with your Entrecosto, and you’ll end the meal as they do too: by chatting away with the people at the next table. Beco dos Surradores, 5 (Baixa/ Chiado); 21 886 96 41; Closed Sundays; Around €7,50
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ercês Adega das Mlco e father ming, homely. Th
Good, cheap, we have a Adega das Mercês and son who run z de ro “ar h: dis e us ial ho particularly spec special a d an en e with chick cabidela”. It’s ric . Oh get over od blo ’s en ick ch sauce made from it, it tastes great. s, 2 (Bairro Alto); Travessa das Mercê nd €12 ed Sundays; Arou 21 342 44 92; Clos
Pap’Açorda
Thirty years, and still the king. Everything on Pap’Açorda’s menu a is delicious. Think Portuguese food nd la carte with style. The guys behi t it also part-own one of Lisbon’s mos fashionable restaurants, Bica do spot. Sapato, but we prefer this cosier . urite favo l loca a Call ahead, it’s ; Rua da Atalaia 57/59 (Bairro Alto) ; Mon Sun– ed Clos 11; 21 346 48 Around €50
Restaurante Alfaia
After more than a hundred years, you probably know your food. This restaurant has been in the same family since the 19th century, and it has one of the best selections of Portuguese food we’ve ever seen in a menu. From amêijoas à bulhão pato (clams in butter garlic sauce) to petingas e jaquizinhos fritos (little fried fish), plus bacalhau em migas de broa (cod in breadcrumbs) and arroz de Tamboril (monkfish with rice), it’s all delicious. It gets a bit crowded around 21.30, so try to arrive early, or alternatively walk in to reserve your table, then wait next door with a glass of wine and a nibble in their wine bar. Travessa da Queimada 24 (Bairro Alto), 21 346 12 32; Closed Sunday lunch; Around €30
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cachupa calulu funge gigoti matapa moamba MOQUECA pirão quizaca tarco xerém 60 eating
african flavours Portugal’s colonial history in Africa has led immigrants from such places as Angola, Mozambique, Cape Verde, São Tomé and Principe, and Guinea Bissau to make Lisbon their home. And with them come recipes and flavours that you’ll just love. Amazing spices, incredible tastes, intriguing textures – your taste buds never knew what they were missing. Restaurante Mãe Preta The name translates as “Black Mama”, and it’s a quiet space that serves must-try dishes moamba (see A Moamba) and fish calulu (a kind of Angolan vegetable and fish mix). Rua das Taipas, 14 (next to Bairro Alto) Closed: Mon. Boca Picante The place is called Spicy Mouth, and their ever-changing menu is eye-wateringly delicious. A mixture of flavours from Cape Verde, Angola and Guinea Bissau. The space may be small but the food is richer than Bill Gates… Rua do Século, 170 (Bairro Alto) Open: Wed–Mon. O Cantinho do Aziz This tiny corner provides flavours from Mozambique and Goa. Don’t miss the Zambeze chicken and the prawn curry. Rua de S. Lourenço, 3–5 (Mouraria). A Moamba Two brothers from Huambo in Angola have spent the last fifteen years sharing their house speciality with guests – so special that they named the place after it. Moamba is a fruit that grows with the oil palm (where palm oil comes from), and the sauce is nothing short of delicious. Chicken or fish, make it Moamba. Rua Fradesso Silveira, 75 (Alcântara) Closed: Sun. Associação Caboverdeana Right in the centre of Lisbon’s financial hub is a lift that takes you to a place where, on Tuesdays and Thursdays, you can dance to live Cape Verde-style music, and enjoy some great food. It’s only open at lunchtime, though groups can reserve for dinner. It’s fun and sometimes full, so make a reservation. R. Duque de Palmela, 2, 8th floor. (Liberdade) 21 353 19 32 Restaurante/Discoteca En’Clave Opened in 1976 by the seven-foot Cape Verdean balladeer Bana, this place proudly calls itself one of the first restaurants of its kind to open in Lisbon. Here you can listen to live music, dance and taste Cape Verde cuisine. In the basement is a disco and bar, so if you feel like working off your meal, head for the stairs. Rua Sol ao Rato, 71 A (Rato) 20.00–04.00, Closed: Tue. Mr. Picante A late-night Catchupa has become a ritual. This stew of beans, egg, chickpeas and meat is quite an energy bomb, absorbing all that excess booze, and giving you the strength to head to an after-hours club. Rua Fernandes Tomás, 54 (São Bento).
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Eat Global There’s nothing like having dinner at some friends’ house – even if you haven’t met them yet. Yve is a Dutch web artist and a researcher in the Politics of Cooking. Mário is Portuguese and a specialist in mobility. Both are amazing hosts, and would love to invite you and your friends to dinner. Simply write Yve an e-mail, fix up a date and number of people (ten at the most). Then you can make your choice from a selection of dishes, or go for the “Blind Dinner” option. Yve has traveled around the world, so expect a fusion of Asian, South American and a pinch of Europe. All ingredients are organic, the price is decent, and you’ll feel almost as at home as they do. Contact Yve le Grand, y.le.grand@gmail.com (around Bairro Alto) €20–€30 per person Comida de Santo It’s a genuine taste of Brazil, from the food and the drinks to the family who runs it. Start out by ordering a caipirinha (or caipiroska) and a “Casquinha de Siri”, a crab mixture served in its shell, one of the house specials. Follow with Muqueca de Camarão (shrimp and coconut milk), Vatapá (fish and shrimp with dried fruits and ginger), Feijoada
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(meat and beans with rice) or a Picadinho à Mineira (chopped meat with orange and cream). And hey, while you were eating, you actually polished off two more caipirinhas, so you’d better soak some of it up with a Pudim de Aipim. And maybe just one more caipirinha. And maybe another back here again tomorrow. Calçada Engenheiro Miguel Pais, 39 (Príncipe Real) 21 396 33 39 Mon-Sun kitchen open o1.oo www.comidadesanto.pt A Tapadinha Vodka and Russian dolls, caviar and Skumbria (salted and spicy fish, marinated cucumber in dill and wild celery), Koteliete (diced beef and pork with onions, bread and milk) and Pelminie (meat cakes in mayonnaise). Russia and your stomach. Calçada da Tapada 41 A (Alcântara) 21 364 04 82 Mon-Sat, until 02.00. Live music most Wednesdays TOMO Japanese Forget trendy modern sushi bars; this absolutely-no-glamour restaurant is the real deal. The chef was the Japanese Ambassador’s private chef, so taste the difference and ignore the lack of décor. Avenida Bombeiros Voluntários, 44 (Algés) 21 301 07 05 Closed: Sundays
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For more chic sushi in the centre: Tsuki (Rua nova de São Mamede, 18, near Principe Real), Sushi Rio (Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, on top of Meninos do Rio terrace in Santos’ river side) or take away at Assuka (Rua São Sebastião da Pedreira, 224, Saldanha). Tamarind An Indian restaurant with no Indian décor. No smell of curry and incense, no goddess paintings, no kitsch, no television playing Bollywood movies. Here, the walls are coloured according to wellbeing Ayurvedic principles, which also extend to the food – Indian-style cooking with an unusual and delicious twist. In the kitchen is a Tasmanian‑born chef of Punjab descendant, who worked as a computer geek in London until he discovered that cooking was his passion and Lisbon was his home. Rua da Glória, 43-45 (Liberdade) 21 346 60 80 Reserve at weekends. Closed: Monday; Saturday lunchtime Café Malaca Soft lighting, bright colours, hypnotic Asian music and a cosy mezzanine. Malaysian native Yoon Chin and Portuguese entrepreneur Manuel Pinho came together to
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mix the tastes of China, Japan, Malaysia and Indonesia in a delicious and surprising way. You’ll drool over the spring roll, the duck, and the superb view of the bridge over the Tagus. Cais do Gás, Armazém H, (Clube Naval de Lisboa, 1st floor), Cais do Sodré 21 347 70 82 Mon-Wed, lunch and afternoon tea. Thur-Sat, also dinner. Beware of birthday parties. Around €20 Tentações de Goa Warm and welcoming, this place connects Lisbon with its colonial connections in south of India. To get there, you have to walk through slightly dodgy alleyways and dead ends behind Martim Moniz, but it’s worth the journey. Cardamom, saffron, Indian spice, ginger, cumin mix together on your plate to make your taste buds sing. Rua São Pedro Mártir 23 r/c (Martim Moniz) 21 887 58 24 Closed: Sunday and holidays Flor de Laranja The cosiest of Lisbon’s three Moroccan restaurants. Don’t miss out on the Casablancan owner’s pastille (pastry with chicken filling), lamb with plum tagine, and chewy sweets. Rua da Rosa, 206 (Bairro Alto) 21 342 29 96 Closed: Monday lunchtime and Sunday.
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The Portuguese are very particular about their crustaceans; the places that serve them are called Marisqueiras or Cervejarias, and vary in size. The best ones are usually closer to the coast, though if you don’t want to venture too far, Ramiro is one of the very best, right in the centre of the city. The food’s fresh, tasty and the place isn’t quite as frantic as some of its local counterparts. We love it. Ramiro Avenida Almirante Reis 1H (Anjos); 21 885 10 24; Around €35 excluding wine; Closed: Tuesdays
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SEAFOOD
gou me Olivier
Olivier is the son of one of Portugal’s finest chefs. Talk about family pressure. Luckily, he turned out as good – or even better – than dad, which is saying something. He now owns two restaurants in Lisbon, but we want you to try the Bairro Alto one, the first and original (with not as austere an ambiance as the newer one). And when you go, you simply have to go for the degustacion menu. Let gluttony rule.
Omnia
Choose Omnia’s “degustacion volante” (“flying tasting”) and have a great mini gastronomic experience. You’ll be served twelve delicious, small dishes created by Stéphane Gallou, a chef so precocious that he entered the world-famous Drouant school aged 16. The service at Omnia is attentive (almost too attentive!) and they help create a modern, relaxed atmosphere with a feeling of elegance in every detail, such as the little tube they fill with differentcoloured glass balls to match each dish you try. Alright, it’s a bit silly, but when it tastes this good, who cares?
Eleven Rua Marques da Fronteira, Jardim Amália Rodrigues (Parque Eduardo VII) 21 386 22 11 www.restauranteleven.com Closed: Sundays Lunch menu: €39 Tasting menu: €85 excluding wine
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Olivier Rua do Teixeira, 35 (Bairro Alto) 21 343 14 05 www.restaurante-olivier.com Closed: Sundays Tasting menu: €35 excluding wine Omnia Largo de Santos, 9C (Santos) 21 390 35 83 www.omnia.pt Closed: Sundays Tasting menu with wine: €55
Eleven
The only Michelin star in Portugal, and simply the finest contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in the city. As if that weren’t enough, it’s located in the middle of the city and has a tremendous view. We advise lunch, a table by the window and a few hours of indulgence.
our met A Travessa Travessa do Convento das Bernardas, 12 (Madragoa) 21 394 08 39 www.atravessa.com Closed: Sundays Around €60 per person including wine
A Travessa
This is a great summer dining experience. You sit in an enclosed courtyard, formerly a convent, where they serve you a succession of delicious mouthful. Then the menu arrives. Main courses are fish or meat, beautifully cooked and immaculately served. It’s all rather sinful, and we’re not sure the nuns would approve, but we most certainly do.
Clube dos Jornalistas
molecular gastronomy with live performances. The first Thursday of the month is the day to head straight for the Clube dos Jornalistas (the Press Club). Don’t be put off by the name, it’s a restaurant open to all, except you’ll be doing more than just eating. You’ll also be feeling, listening, tasting, experiencing culinary experiments combined with a live show. Let your mouth absorb familiar flavours with unusual textures, while you enjoy a strange musical performance to push all seven senses to the limit.
Clube dos Jornalistas Rua das Trinas, 129 (Lapa) 21 397 71 38 Tasting menu: €40 excluding wine Yasmin Rua da Moeda, 1 (Cais do Sodré) 21 393 00 74 www.yasmin-lx.com 19.30–02.00 Tasting menu: €38 excluding wine
Yasmin
The space is great, the food is better. The menu changes three times a year, but expect experimental, creative cooking that isn’t so pretentious that you leave hungry. Oh, and the desserts… just oh.
TRY ROMANCE Buenos Aires
Get ready to fall in love. If not with your own date, at least with the restaurant, because the food at Buenos Aires is phenomenal – from Argentinian steaks to veggie dishes, appetisers (try the endives with roquefort and pear) to desserts (did someone say chocolate volcano?). The décor makes you want to Tango, the wine list doesn’t disappoint, and the staff go out of their way to fulfill your every desire. A cosy, romantic restaurant that you’ll never want to leave. Buenos Aires, will you marry me? Escadinhas do Duque, 31B (Baixa/Chiado) 21 342 07 39 / Closed: Sundays
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Afreudite What better place to propose to your loved one than an aphrodisiac restaurant? Whatever the answer, the effect on the libido will at least make the evening more interesting. The décor is as warm as it gets, and the menu features such sensual dishes as “Satay Orgy”, “Desír”, “Platonic Carpaccio”, “Concubine Rice” or “Devil Fetuccini”. At the end, you’re rewarded with an erotic poem and an Indian cigarette for that satisfying, post-excitement smoke. If you want an even more intimate atmosphere, they’ll come and cook for you in your own home. Passeio das Garças, lote 4.39, loja 1J (Parque Das Nações) 21 894 06 60 / Mon–Sat / www.afreudite.com
Cantinho da Paz Enter slowly. When you step through the door of this tiny restaurant enjoy a moment of perfect peace. The light dims, a serene waiter welcomes you in. What better for a little romance? The food is excellent - one of the best Goan (with an African touch) restaurants in town. Dare try the xacuti, shrimp or chicken curry; don’t forget to order some of the samosas, and beware of the green sauce - you might not have planned a night as spicy as that. Rua da Paz 4 (Between São Bento and Bairro Alto) 21 390 19 63; www.restaurantecantinhodapaz.com; Closed: Sundays
FLOR DE SAL Love is in the air, in the food, in the waiters’ smiles, in the trees out in the front. There’s something magical about the garden you look out over from this restaurant’s terrace, so take your time and enjoy life passing by. With staff so engaging, it’s like being served by friends (who cook really well), the only unpleasant moment having to choose between the lemon or duck risottos, the codfish and rocket, the bass with mint crust or the delicious salads. If your date isn’t in the mood for love after this one, pick another date. Praça das Flores, 40 (São Bento) 21 397 50 65; Tues–Sat, dinner; Sat–Sun, lunch
Estado Liquido Sushi Lounge It’s twelve thirty at night. You’ve had an over-emotional day and love has left no space for hunger. You know you should eat something, but it’s late and you have no idea where to take your one true love. You are looking for something light and cosy, a retreat where you can grab a bite and flirt the night away. Estado Líquido Sushi Lounge is it. On the second floor of the Estado Líquido nightclub, it stays open late into the intimate hours. Sit on a cushion on the floor, listen to the smooth DJ and order sushi and sashimi with a warm bottle of sake. If it’s a Sunday, you can head next-door afterwards to Teatro A Barraca, and take your partner for a tango spin they will never forget. Largo de Santos, 5A (Santos) 21 397 20 22 / Closed Monday and Tuesday, Weds till 02.00, Thurs till 03.00, Fri–Sat till 04.00, Sun till 02.00 / www.estadoliquido.com 74 eating
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The most unlikely combination s often prove the most beguiling. A PortugueseJapanese love story gave birth to both a son and a tearoom, and we’re glad it did. Tomoko is Japanese , Paulo is Portuguese, they fell in love twenty years ago, and haven’t stopped spreadin g the love since. Among their finer creations is the Castella – a Portuguese-Japanese sponge cake in various flavours including green tea. Salão de Chá Luso Japonês - Cast ella do Paulo Rua da Alfândega, 120 (Baixa) Mon-Fri 07.30-19.30, Sat 12.00-19 .30
You have to take a bus there, but trust us, it’s worth it. The palmiers, made from fine and crispy pastry, are simply the best we’ve tasted. a While you’re there, you might want to throw in very the ing includ s, pastrie made few other home special warm filo-pastry croissants. , 11 Pastelaria Restelo “careca”, Rua D Duarte Pereira , (Restelo), Bus 751 from Campo de Ourique to Restelo 08.00-20.00. Closed: Tuesdays
Every other guidebook to Lisbon says “try the tourist-filled Pastéis de Belém for their house speciality (famous custard tarts topped with cinnamon) ”. You know by now that we’ll treat you better than that. Follow us to skip the long lines and high prices, and join us just 500 metres down the street, to Pastelaria Chique de Belém. This is where the locals buy their pastéis, known here as Pastel de Nata. They’re just as good (or dare we say, even better), the staff much friendlier and you can enjoy the taste with none of the stress. Chique de Belém, R. Junqueira 524 (Belém) As you look at Pasteis de Belém, it’s on the right
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Starbuwho? Why isn’t there a Frutalmeid as on every corner? This yellow café/fruit shop is not the height of interior decoration, but it quash es hunger as only your grandmother’s homemade cook ing knows how. Inside this fruit shop you’ll find fresh ly squeezed juices, an unforgettable strawberry cake and the jewel of the crown: warm meat pastries known as pastéis de massa tenra. Yum and more yum. Frutalmeidas, Av. Roma 45 (Roma) 08.00-20.00. Closed: Sundays
in the The sign says it all: “The Best Chocolate Cake The cake ? crown the them deny to we World”. And who are layers of natural contains no flour; instead, it’s made out of reminiscent cocoa mousse interspersed with crunchy layers rs, they also of Maltesers. For those who prefer bitter flavou slice, or buy a By . cocoa more uses that n versio make a dark world, cruel bye Good late? an entire cake. Death by choco I’m ready. O melhor bolo de chocolate do mundo Rua Coelho da Rocha, 41 A (Campo de Ourique) 08.30 to 19.30. Closed: Sundays
o Don’t be intimidated by the Latin serve not may They ers. ex-con look of the wait pastries with a al ition trad se ugue Port your you smile will be smile, but they don’t need to – the . all over your face from the first bite Bordalo Pastelaria Baloiço, Av. Columbano Pinheiro, 93E (Pç de Espanha)
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after hours eating Cacau da Ribeira If it’s 5am and you’re hungry, Cacau da Ribeira sells croissants, pastries, hamburguers, bifanas and pregos (meat in bread with garlic) to the drunk people of Lisbon. It’s especially known for its hot chocolate. While you nibble, enjoy the frenetic opening of Mercado da Ribeira food market, at the back of the building. Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho (Cais Sodré/Santos) Daily, 00.00–13.00 Cláudio If you’re between drinking and dancing and you feel a bit peckish in the Bica or the Bairro Alto, look for Cláudio, a Hare Krishna who plays the flute and also sells incense. He carries a Little Red Riding Hood basket hiding vegetarian patties made out of the freshest ingredients. A true service for those who enjoy the night.
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Night of the living bread
It’s three in the morning. Your head is thrumming, your feet are throbbing and your stomach is growling. Lisbon’s after-hours pastry shops beckon. To find one all you have to do is follow your nose or ask that well-fed-looking club kid wiping the corners of his mouth. What to sample? The bola de Berlim (Berliner) is a fried pastry ball, filled with egg cream and covered in sugar. Here it rules supreme, but there are also croissants, pão com chouriço (bread stuffed with smoked sausage), palmiers and all sorts of other yeasty treats designed to appeal to your addled senses. If you’ve been out in the Bairro Alto, you should go to the pastry shop at Rua da Rosa 186; it’s one of the best known, one of the nicest, and it’s always crowded. In Ajuda you’ll find a secluded but tastier one at Calçada da Tapada 104. And if you’re up town, you can hit one of these three shops without breaking a sweat: Begin at Av. João XXI 53C (Campo Pequeno), it’s an old timers’ stopover. Or head to Av. Defensores de Chaves 20A (Saldanha), where you’ll walk almost through the kitchen to get in. Wrap up your late-night snacking at Av. Almirante Reis 149A (Arroios), where you’ll have to stumble down into the basement to get to the goods. How you get back up the stairs is your own problem. All shops open up around 12am and close around 4am or 5am
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Restaurante SNOB b than 40 years ago, Sno When it opened more . bon Lis in vate clubs was one of the first pri tering hole for writers, Famous for being a wa lists (it sometimes feels politicians and journa Café de São Bento sroom), the place an like an after-hours new The place is a bit old and musty, in in a good way. ned hio fas rs old ome is smart and upper-class way, and the cust er for more than nag ma Senhor Albino (Snob’s are mainly in the over-45, suit-andan old clock on the thirty years) maintains tie bracket, but never mind the e any hands. No hav like back wall that doesn’t surroundings, enjoy the meat. It’s a hurry. Have a in be to . ms time y see ever e , no one her tasting your first-ever steak t the night away. cha delicious late steak and Rua de São Bento, 212 (São Bento) iado) /Ch ixa (Ba 178 , ulo Rua do séc 21 395 29 11 3.00 0–0 00 16.3 –02. 23; 19.00 37 to 0 346 –14.3 21 Lunch: 12.30 .com www.snobarestaurante Around €25, excluding wine wine Around €20, excluding
These steaks are tender and juicy, they melt in our mouths… we just can’t resist.
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s達o jorge hill
Lose yourself among these ancient streets– but watch out for the wet clothes dripping from the windows! This is probably the most visually stunning hill in Lisbon. Seen from below, it’s all castle, trees and soft orange light. From the top, it’s the city, the sky, the ocean and river. Tire yourself out walking up to the top, then skip lightheartedly back down, taking in every detail. Breathe in the fado and the popular songs, stumble upon hidden havens of traditional foods, and while you’re at it, fortify yourself with home-made liqueurs religiously hidden beneath the counter, or ask for a bica com cheirinho (a coffee with a dash of brandy). Here, the traditional and the modern compete for your attention – alternative design shops beckon, while old tascas and milk bars lure you in with their old-school appeal. Arty crowds share the neighbourhood with old timers who’ve lived here since 1900, as the genuine and original still remain staunchly in place. By the time you reach the white brick road leading up to the castle, you will probably have decided to make this place your next home.
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Life on the street Lisbon is a graphic-rich city. It’s a great place to combine a good walk with some illustrative sightseeing. Try the areas around Baixa and Chiado, where you’ll find plenty of old typography, and stimulating public and commercial signage. In the old quarters such as Alfama, you may still find the odd traditional typographer’s workshop, and at Feira da Ladra, you might be able to buy the odd lead character or two. The markets are also a good place to check out examples of calligraphy. Until recently Lisbon used to abound in kids’ scrawls, gypsies’ chalk drawings on roads and pavements, and the remains of political murals dating back to the Revolution. Nowadays, all you can find is contemporary graffiti. And lots of it. Since the mid 1990s, Lisbon has spawned an innovative graffiti scene, which is mainly concentrated along the suburban railway lines (Cascais line; Sintra line; Azambuja line) and across the river (Almada, Seixal). In the centre, especially around Bairro Alto, you’ll find a great deal of stencil work and arty street graphics, whereas the Amoreiras Hall of Fame (Av. Conselheiro Fernando de Sousa) is the place to check out the work of some of the best local graffiti writers. Trains are getting harder to hit and in some train yards, they’re buffed as soon as detected. The Metro system has a zero tolerance policy and painted trains never run. If you don’t know what you’re doing, keep to the streets, and keep it low-key. There are reports of police brutality against writers, and even if they keep their nightsticks to themselves, you might still be fined or put on the next flight home. 85
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annual graffiti exhibition www.visualstreetperformance.com
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Lisbon may not have the enormous collections of Switzerland, Germany or the UK, but this city has an unpredictably lively art scene. Fresh, intelligent and often rather good contemporary art is quietly flourishing in the city.
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the alternatives There are plenty of alternative spaces that offer decent exhibitions. In the heart of Bairro Alto, galeria zé dos bois (Rua da Barroca, 59) has been developing its activity over the last 10 years, and has given opportunities to many young and not-soyoung artists. No matter what’s on display, the space itself is pretty amazing. Ask for Natcho, and if he’s in, enjoy a chat with one of the mainstays of Lisbon’s cultural life since the early 90s. Not far from Zé dos Bois, in the outstanding Mirador de Santa Catarina, is oporto (Cç. Salvador Correia de Sá 42. 2nd Fte. Entrance by Noobai – Miradouro de Santa Catarina). It’s a relatively new project of screenings developed and curated by Alexandre Estrela and Miguel Soares, two of the most interesting artists of the current wave. Even though their activity is a bit irregular, if there’s something going on, Oporto is the place to see something strange and rare. It’s also located inside the former Sailors’ Union, where Lisbon’s sailors used to have their
monthly meetings, so keep an eye out for the strange décor, from sea landscapes painted by ex-sailors, to beautiful, art-deco metallic bowls that are in fact “escarradores”, or spitoons. kgaleria (Rua da Vinha, 43) is the best place in town for great photography. Exhibitions, books, magazines – all a snapper needs to help things develop. voyeur project view (Rua de Timor, 14A) is a somewhat different experience – you view entire exhibitions through a peephole located in the door. They invite mostly Portuguese artists to develop projects there, most of whose work gives you the sensation of watching something you were not supposed to see. the big names For those who prefer more traditional spaces, plenty of galleries showcase outstanding, serious art. The most interesting ones are run by women: cristina guerra (Rua Sto. António à Estrela, 33) is run by a veteran in the business who looks like a Portuguese version of Blondie. She has gathered some of the top Portuguese artists in her gallery, as well as big international names. Same with filomena soares (Rua da Manutenção, 80), located in the area of Marvila, in a huge, impressive space of a converted warehouse.
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galeria lisboa 20 (Rua Tenente Ferreira Durão, 18B) is the place for some of the ‘coolest’ Portuguese art, plus pay attention to vpf/creamarte/plataforma revólver (Rua da Boavista, 84, 2nd, Room 2), a gallery and a project space located near the popular ‘Elevador da Bica’, where Victor Pinto da Fonseca and his team have been developing some really interesting projects. They also host www.artecapital.net, the best website for contemporary art in Portugal. Recently, galeria graça brandão (Rua dos Caetanos, 26) moved from Oporto to the capital, taking over a beautiful former printing house. With a good mixture of established Portuguese and Brazilian artists, it is always worth popping by to check what’s on. vera cortês art agency (Av. 24 de Julho, 54, 1st esq) tries to establish a new model of institution, a hybrid between a gallery, an art advisory and a project developer. They are located inside a very pretty flat in downtown Lisbon, and seeing an exhibition here gives you the feeling of wandering around someone’s house.
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fundação arpad szenes-vieira da silva (Praça das Amoreiras, 56/58) is a small but beautiful museum dedicated to the work of the great Portuguese artist Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, who explored perspective through geometrical abstraction in a unique way, and that of Arpad Szenes, a Hungarian artist and also her husband. It is a charming place, located in a lovely square underneath the aqueduct. culturgest (Rua do Arco do Cego), calls itself ‘A House in the World’. It is a cultural centre with a wide range of activities, including art, music, theatre and dance. Miguel Wandschneider, the art curator, oversees an excellent program of worthwhile international and Portuguese artists. Shame about the ugly building. the museums The historical fundação calouste gulbenkian (Rua Dr. Nicolau de Bettencourt) is a great place for lunch, at the self-service café in the Modern Art Centre. Go for the pear and watercress salad, the ‘pataniscas’ (delicious cod cakes) and the avocado mousse. While you’re there, the Brutalist-style Modern Art Centre also has an interesting collection of Portuguese art, but above all, their temporary exhibitions are always worth a look.
Also pop by the berardo museum in belém (Praça do Império), the contemporary art museum of the millionaire collector Joe Berardo. museu do chiado (Rua Serpa Pinto, 4), in the city’s downtown, often has outstanding temporary exhibitions, and it’s free on Sunday mornings, if your hangover can take it. If you’re brave, have a car and a good map, we recommend a trip out to ellipse foundation (Rua das Fisgas, Pedra Furada, Alcoitão). It may be located in an industrial warehouse on the outskirts of Sintra, but they have an impressive collection of international names. A couple of very good Gonzalez Torres, Baldessari and Pierre Huyghe, among others, make it really worth the trip. Strangely, many of the city’s historical museums also have sections dedicated to contemporary art. Such as sala do veado, inside the museu nacional de história natural (Rua da Escola Politécnica 58), which often hosts installation projects specially conceived for its space. While there, enjoy a stroll around the Botanical Garden to clear your art-addled head.
the museu da cidade (Campo Grande, 245), a museum dedicated to the history of Lisbon, was erected by D. João V to be the house of Maria Paula, his lover, who also happened to be a nun in a nearby convent. Nowadays, the Museum has two pavilions in its baroque gardens, the White (Branco) and the Black (Preto) one. Both host contemporary art exhibitions in this amazing spot. meet the makers If you want to meet the artists outside their studios, there are two places where they tend to hang out: the bicaense bar (Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo 42A) and the camponesa restaurant (R. Marechal Saldanha, 25r/c) where Miguel, its owner, does the best tuna fish in town. Art and food. Lisbon’s twin triumphs.
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dr 98
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liver. Diabetics, take WHAT? Prepare your Port uguese liqueur
Recipe: 1Kg of Morello cherries 1L of Aguardente (brandy) 1 glass of red wine 1Kg of brown sugar 1 cinnamon stick
cover. Ginjinha is a typical and brandy made from ginjas (Morello cherries) ieval times. med to back s date ly rent appa that tascas. Some It’s usually drunk in local, old-time rs see as a othe s, argue it has healing propertie Place the sugar, the , some even glass to est harv ce rien expe romantic wine, the cinnamon stick still e whil ing, cook for e say it makes a fine sauc and the Aguardente in Overall, it’s a others prefer the chocolate version. bowl. Stir and add the ls, and a regular daily habit for die-hard loca un-stoned ginjas. must-try for you. vão, 9A (Alfama) For the first few days Fora de Moda Largo de Santo Este Santo Antão, 7 de as Port e sure you stir the mix das mak Rua l Riva Sem Ginjinha sugar doesn’t settle the so (Baixa/Chiado) ma) bottom. the (Alfa 3 on a, Ginjinha Rua de São João da Praç ma) (Alfa 12 o, Pedr S. de Rua ma Alfa Ginjinha de Place the bowl ingos, 8 (Baixa-Chiado) Ginjinha do Rossio Largo de S. Dom the sun, so it ) in Alto out ro (Bair A 17 as, Ginjinha das Gáveas Rua das Gáve can refine.
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watering hole for regulars who If you’re game for bandy about local an early start, join gossip between a daring of the crowd sip of ginjinha and local pensioners a domino move. who hang out “Ginjinha d’Alfama” every morning by is a little more on the “Ginjinha Sem the touristy side, Rival”. but still worth a visit.
10.00
“Ginjinha Sem Rival” and “Ginjinha do Rossio”. They’re across the street from each other and the taste of their house specials is slightly different. See which you prefer.
and then mosey on over to the Miradouro de Santo Estevão to enjoy the view.
23.00
End the tour on a high note, probably a bit tipsy by now, with a smile on 12.00/15.00 your face, at the 22.00 For that before or/ “Ginjinha das In the centre of 18.00 17.00/ and after lunch Gáveas”. It’s a tasca Alfama, the “Fora time! perfect The shot, try “Ginjinha” de Moda” bar serves with the opening is definitely This and “Ginjinha hours of a pub, in the time for a shot one of the best d’Alfama”, two the middle of the around, s ginjinha while , of ginjinha places where the in a traditional tiny nightlife district. considering your only time that earthenware mug. options for the exists is closing You should Put some warmth evening. time. “Ginjinha” into those cheeks shift between the is a genuine drinking 101
This is like having a drink with the family. Take a seat on the terrace (if you can call a few chairs and a table on the pavement a “terrace”), observe people walking by and listen to what’s new in the neighbourhood from the old women gossiping on their balconies. Hang out, forget your worries, and feel that time has come to a stop. The speciality here is Sangria (fruit, soda and red wine), as fresh as could be, and made by hands like those of your mother. If you ask for a bite, she’ll rustle up something surprisingly tasty to go with your drink. Always ask if there are any Pastelinhos de Bacalhau, they’re really quite special. 102 drinking
The Portuguese never had much of a cocktail tradition, until Dave came to town. From winning prizes in Australia’s Grand Pacific Blue Room, to working in Theo’s Cocktail Bar in New York and managing the Red Bar in Carnaby Street, you could say the guy knows the cocktail business. He and Julie (his friend/business partner) have settled in Lisbon and opened the best place in town to have a sophisticated drink in a relaxed atmosphere. It’s all about the experience: have a chat while lounging in one of the comfortable bean bags, choose what you fancy from more than 100 choices on the menu, watch the passionate preparation and then taste the amazing results. And if you don’t like your drink, say so – they’ll bring you a new one. drinking 103
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drinking 105
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sip elsewhere, order at will – Adivinho will del ive anywhere within Lisbon r free of charge . Travessa do Almada, 24 (Sé) 21 886 04 19 Mon-Sat: 11.00–20.00 Closed: Sundays
are the order and apart froof the day, fantastic Portm such wines as Alenuguese Bairrada, Dão tejano, Sado, Port an , Douro, there are alsod Ribatejo, French wines. excellent If you prefer to
Start walking uphill from Lisbon Cathedral, and on the right-hand side you’ll find this wine bar and shop on the ground floor of an 18th-century building. Free wine tastings
Adivinho
emanates from the shop wind es with a favourite book Cosy up amid the picturesque bottl curtains illuminated by tiny lights. or your perfect date. This little haven is still under the radar, so keep it quiet… Largo de São Martinho, 1 (Castelo) 15.00–00.00 Closed: Mondays
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milk cheese), perfect for intimate chats between nibbles of Queijo da Serra (sheep’s Presunto de Pata Negra (dry-cured ham) and alheira de caça (game sausage), all accompanied by fine Portuguese saloio bread and The wines tend toward reds and Ports the broa (cornbread) of the Convent of Mafra. , and they’ll run to around €6 a glass (bottles range from €3 to €3,500). , give or take Rua do Diário de Notícias, 125 (Bairro Alto) 21 343 30 79; 16.00–02.00 street, A
This wine shop has a seated tasting-room and an outdoor area for those who appreciate the fado nights of the lively Bairro Alto. The room is tiny,
Alfaia Garrafeira
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s達o roque hill
SÃO
ROQUE If a big night out is what you’re after, then head for this hill. But get there before dark, so you can feel the true pulse of Bairro Alto, the energetic heart of the city. In the 16th century, by order of King Manuel, this became the first planned neighbourhood in Lisbon, though looking at it now, it’s hard to believe it was planned at all. In the 1980s, São Roque became the centre of the arty, intellectual avant-garde, and today it still functions as Lisbon’s hotbed of hipsters. Here is where you’ll find the trendiest shops and the greatest variety of restaurant options. To make things worse, the shops stay open very late, to capture that tipsy, post-meal business. In the evening, the bars pour out onto the streets; everybody brings their drink outside. In certain places, the mass of humanity is overwhelming, and it becomes difficult to cut a path through the crowds. There’s a constant buzz from sundown until four in the morning. Sometimes people who live on first floors in the bairro will complain about the noise; once in a while, a bucket of cold water will rain down on an enthusiast street fado singer. This, too, is an essential part of the Bairro Alto experience.
HILL
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going Out
oh wow Im having such an amazing time the night feels like it will never end with so many incredible people around lets have another drink what is that tune the DJ is playing and what is that guy wearing oh my god look at her dancing no I dont want to go somewhere else what already oh ok wow did you see the time shit this place is even better than the last yeah Id love another drink lets hit the dance floor oops Im sorry dont worry about it I love this music this place is incredible wow did you see that I never want this night to end hahahaha thats the funniest thing Ive ever seen oh my god have you seen the time its daytime already no really the suns up oww my eyes ok one more drink and thats it what time is it fuck you’re kidding Shall we just go straight to lunch?
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Day has somehow slipped into night, and you’re in need of some fast renovation. If you have five euros and 15 minutes to spare, head to Dress Up. Their experts will apply the slap, using only M.A.C. products, and, if you need a new frock to go with your new face, they sell clothes from Miss Sixty, Timezone, La Paz and Killah. Oh my goodness darling, you look fab. Rua da Rosa, 23 (Bairro Alto)
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são luiz teatro municipal Beyond the theatre sits a winter garden and a decent restaurant/café that hosts its own events. Keep an eye out for their special parties with guest DJs – who are often celebrities trying out the decks for the first time.
teatro ibérico You may not understand the words, but the space is undeniably beautiful: a former 16th-century church. Ask nicely in mid‑afternoon and they might just let you in to see the stone walls and ancient woodwork.
Rua António Maria Cardoso, 38 (Baixa/ Chiado); Thur: 12.00–01.00 Fri-Sat: 12.00–02.00; Closed: Sundays
Rua de Xabregas, 54 (Xabregas) Closed: Mondays
teatro maria matos Start your evening in the second-floor café. It overlooks the street and stays open until 2 am, serving sandwiches, salads and even sushi. Perhaps the best part is the presentation: you get your food served to you in a biscuit tin. Avenida Frei Miguel Contreiras, 52 (Roma) Closed: Mondays
a barraca In the heart of Santos, a well-dressed area for a night’s drinking, A Barraca’s bar is a great place for a drink and, on some nights, poetry reading, tango classes and more. Largo de Santos, 2 (Santos) Wed–Sun, 21.00–02.00
comuna Its quiet, informal café is a great place to sit with friends – though don’t be too shocked if it suddenly gets lively at sunset. Praça de Espanha (Espanha)
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KING
xxl sofas
nice and warm
find your friends arthouse movies
CINEMATOGRAPHICS
av. 5 de outubro, 42b (saldanh a)
NIMAS
smells like roses
av. frei miguel contreir as, 52a (roma)
sold out!
YEAHHHH!
LET’S GO!
...
variety
CINEMATECA rua barata salgueiro, 39 (liberdad e)
eat popcorn!
YEAHHHH! LET’S GO! ...
SO, SO...
NOT TODAY
nobody there
BUUUHHH!
broken seats
it stinks!
north pole
no space to hang out
hollywood
Cinecittà and Soundcra ft Classics, B-movies and old vinyl. Rua do Século, 19 (Bairro Alto) Cinemascope s. merchandising raritie Posters, lobby cards and l) Rea ipe ínc (Pr 40 Rua do Monte Olivete,
also for film fanatics!
LONDRES av. roma, 7a (roma)
SÃO JORGE
av. liberdad e, 175c (liberdad e)
The best alternative places to watch a movie (original-language versions only)
i’m hungry
SO, SO... NOT TODAY same old
BUUUHHH!
The real It’s about opening your heart to your friends or neighbours or whoever wants to listen. To sing the mournful folk melodies of fado, you must have suffered, you must feel a deep need to pour your guts out, whether you’re singing about love, pain, joy, jealousy, or anything else. Fado is an experience you shouldn’t miss. But if you end up in a touristy fado house, all you’ll experience is disappointment. The true stuff – Fado Vadio – has almost disappeared. Long before it was accepted by the elites and performed on the radio and in the concert halls, fado was restricted to the poor neighbourhoods of Alfama and Mouraria. It was sung by and for the people: the cleaning lady, the hooker, the shoe shiner, the waitress – all used fado to lament the misleading paths of their lives, the lack of luck, the leaps of faith, the broken hearts. “vadio” means vagabond, and that alone explains why it cannot be found in any expensive Fado House. Fado Vadio is – and will always be – sung in tascas (cheap restaurants) where anyone who cares to can join in [yes, you too], accompanied by any Portuguese guitar player who happens to be around. After getting that knot in your belly from the emotion transmitted by a true fado performance, you should get up and scream out, with no shame for feeling it too: “É FADISTA!” We promise you won’t be the only one.
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Some of the few remaining places where true fado can be found: Sing the night away Mesa de Frades The kitchen of this two-room tiled restaurant is supposed to close at 10pm, but everyone knows that the doors only close when the last client goes away. And that can be in the early hours. Here is where fado singers come after work and people gather to sing and listen. The house is full every day. A real dawn phenomenon. Rua dos Remédios, 139 A (Alfama); 91 702 94 36 Closed: Tuesdays; www.mesadefrades.com
O Fado You could walk past it every day for years and never notice it. But you should. Nelo and his Russian dancer wife are the owners. He’s a wild character – some say his impression of Portuguese romantic singer Toni de Matos is better than Toni himself. The experience of seeing Fado Vadio in what was once a brothel (now a restaurant) will depend on your luck – if you see that the street is crowded with cars, that means the night will be good, and so you’ll hear old ladies turning into Fado dinosaurs, or maybe even Japanese guys trying to sing their songs. Strange things happen here. The best hour is around 4am, though the bar only closes around 6 (or even later, if the night is particularly strange). See, and try to believe. Rua do Telhal, 11 (Liberdade) 93 457 94 63; Wed–Sat: 01.00 onwards
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Tasca do Jaime A cute couple runs the house and keeps the tradition alive. Rua da Graça, 91 (Graça) (follow tram 28 line) After 16.00 on weekend nights
A Tasca do Careca Ti Abílio Duarte is the guy you should look for amongst all singers. He writes his own lyrics and every time is a revelation. Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva, 2A (Picoas) 21 357 52 65; Sat: 21.00–02.00
Around Bairro Alto A Tasca do Chico Rua do Diário de Notícias, 39 (Bairro Alto) 21 343 10 40; Mon–Wed: 09.00–02.00
Caldo verde Meet the wonderful owner, Mr. João Roque. If the night is good, he’ll leave the bar open late. If it isn’t, watch out – he has the 2am boat to catch home. Rua da Esperança, 91 (Santos); 09.00–02.00
Portas Largas The doorman and magnificent Fado singer here is Toni Paiva, one of the remaining lighthouses of the Lisbon scene. Rua da Atalaia, 105 (Bairro Alto) Sunday sessions organised by Mr. Toni Paiva himself: 21.00–01.30
Hot Club PRAÇA DA ALEGRIA, 39 (LIBERDADE)
In 1948, with the fascist regime in full flow, João Vilas Boas invited jazz into Portugal. It never left. This tiny basement has hardly changed since either, with its walls covered in tales of freeform groove.
Onda Jazz ARCO DE JESUS 7 (ALFAMA)
A recent, and already cult addition to the scene, this old coffee warehouse has been turned into a huge lounge room where the atmosphere reaches right up into the furthest corners. Jazz is the dominant sound, but it often shares the stage with African, Oriental, Latin and World Music.
Catacumbas Jazz Bar TRAVESSA DA ÁGUA FLOR, 43 (BAIRRO ALTO)
There’s a small door on a mythical corner of Lisbon’s night life. This is the official house of Jazz in Bairro Alto. The space contains a number of rooms and tiny nooks with dim lighting and hushed tones. In the centre room is a piano, available for customers or guest musicians to have a tinkle. going out 121
FábricParata
Braço de
On the same day you might come across a chess tournament, a jazz concert, a discussion on philosophy or an electronic music party. Sometimes it all happens at the same time. Originally it was meant to be a bookshop, but this old arms factory in Poço do Bispo soon became much more. The project started quietly. The place had been abandoned for years, so Nuno Nabais got in touch with the owners and proposed a peculiar lease: the occupants wouldn’t pay any rent, but on the day they receive their eviction notice they won’t complain, and will leave immediately. You need a certain amount of insanity to propose creating a business that could vanish from one day to the next, but having closed down his alternative, niche bookshop, Nuno wanted to move a little away from the city centre. Somehow he persuaded the building’s owners to go along with the scheme. The original plan was for a few shelves, a stage and a piano. But then Zé Pinho joined the project in 2007, and helped things expand. Currently it has four rooms dedicated to the bookshop (one is also a bar, and another doubles up as a concert hall), five 122 going out
Rua Fábrica de Material de Guerra, 1 (Poço do Bispo) Take bus 28 from Cais Sodré (15 minute ride) Wed–Sun 18.00–04.00 96 536 85 69
, a theatre space, exhibition rooms, a cinema room rdionist, performer acco ch Fren a re (whe room Michel’s work), and his s play and lays and visual artist disp tic project Holos. artis the to d cate dedi room her anot bitions, piano From film screenings to graffiti exhi performances s, tent s recitals, handicraft fairs, circu to the “temporary me elco s…w idor corr the in out carried en. happ may hing autonomous zone”. Anyt concert room and new a , floor top nt vaca stillthe For Despite not really a fondue restaurant are planned. As Nabais puts it: last. t knowing until when it migh ” risk. in ty beau “there is going out 123
Social Drinking It’s not all trendy bars and superclubs. If you want a cosier, more friendly night out in Lisbon, join our club. Bacalhoeiro is good-vibes central, with regular parties, performances, dinner-and-film nights, dancing lessons, workshops and high-quality DJ sets. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 125, 1st and 2nd floors (Baixa/Chiado) Fifteen-minutes walk away is Crew Hassan, a laid-back, friendly cultural co-op with several rooms that host unexpected gigs, DJ sets and more. Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 159, 1st floor (Baixa/Chiado) If you really want to dive into old Lisbon, hunt down the Colectividades (social activity clubs). The same old customers are absorbed in the same old games having the same old conversations, and are usually happy – if surprised – to see the same old place fill up with younger faces. The prices match the décor – welcome to the 1970s! Ateneu Comercial de Lisboa By day endless social activities, by night an alternative hangout. Concerts, parties, markets… Everything fits in Ateneu. It has a gym, a swimming pool, a basketball field, and more rooms than you’d ever need filled with unexpected entertainment. Rua Portas de Santo Antão, 110, 2nd floor (Baixa/Chiado) 21 342 13 65/6 Grupo Desportivo da Mouraria From the kitsch décor of the ballroom to the view from the windows of the games area and the bartender from a bygone age, this place is a surreal joy. At weekends, you might stumble upon a decent party. Travessa da Nazaré, 21, 1st floor (Mouraria); 21 887 00 58 Grupo Desportivo da Pena With two communes and a sports club, this is the place for cheap beer, coffee and table football. Calçada de Santana, 132A, 1st (Campo Mártires da Pátria) 21 887 36 92 124 going out
going out  125
good Old-fashioned fun
bar a paródia In a street with little traffic, you’ll find a blood-red door. Ring
the doorbell and walk into a cosy ambiance, coloured in the Art Nouveau style. Let your gaze travel along walls lined with mirrors, fabrics, woodwork and marble covered in match‑boxes. The furniture is vintage, and the red velvet sofas guarantee ever-lasting comfort. In such a setting, conversations are lengthy, sprinkled with Caipifrutas (Caipirinhas with strawberry, coconut and tutti-frutti) and divine ham-and-cheese or tuna toasted sandwiches in Alentejano bread. There’s also a piano in the room they might even let you play. Rua do Patrocínio, 26b (Campo de Ourique) 22.00–02.00 126 going out
bar procópio Tucked away in a hidden corner of a spacious patio,
paved in the traditional Portuguese way, is a door framed by ivy. Inside, a burgundy-and-gilt Art Nouveau interior has been welcoming politicians and intellectuals for more than 30 years. This is one of the most famous bars in Lisbon, not only for its décor, but also for its relaxed atmosphere that encourages deep, meaningful conversations. At the end of the evening, you’ll be left without words and the soothing comfort of the piano. Alto de S. Francisco, 21 A (Rato) Mon–Fri 18.00–03.00, Sat open from 21.00 going out 127
Nightwalker
128  going out
What are you looking for?
going out  129
Even if you’re not looking for it, it will find you. When night falls on Lisbon, the vibes will draw you into the dark bar, the pulsating club, the louche lounge. Just don’t expect to emerge before midnight. Quiet, contemplative night options can be found around the castle hill. The Tejo Bar (Beco do Vigário, 1, Alfama) is tiny but cosy, and hosts the most homely live-music evenings. Caxin-bar (Costa do Castelo) is a hideaway where you can smoke a hookah pipe and drink some tea in a Luso-Moroccan atmosphere. It’s right next to the friendly Bar das Imagens and Chapitô, a circus school that’s also home to a restaurant and bar with an amazing view of the city. A five-minute walk will take you to Santiago Alquimista (Rua de Santiago, 19C), an old, two-storied ironmonger’s turned gig-room, where top-quality local and international bands often play. The night’s quiet hum turns into a more insistent buzz along the narrow alleys and small streets of Bairro Alto. Every door opens into a bar – you walk in, order a beer and then chill out by the door with the rest of the crowd. In Maria Caxuxa (Rua da Barroca, 6-12), an old bakery, you can grab a drink and sink into a sofa. Further reclining options can be found at Bedroom (Rua do Norte, 86); just make sure you like the company you’re with before you choose a bed. If it all sounds more sleepy than seductive, head over to Capela (Rua da Atalaia, 45), tucked behind a red curtain, where music plays at a minimum of 124bpm. If you want to soak up the atmosphere, there are several street corners where crowds gather to decide where to go next – to be a part of the decision-making, head for the corner of Rua da Barroca and Travessa da Espera. Or, to avoid such madness, head down in the direction of the river to the Elevador da Bica area, where the friendly atmosphere is less manic; Souk Bar (Rua Marechal Saldanha, 6) works as a small club always with different line ups of electronic beats where you can start warming your feet. If the mood is more chilled, Bicaense (Rua da Bica Duarte Belo, 42), an old tasca decorated with vintage radios and cameras, is where most people gravitate in this area for lively conversations and intimate gigs. Around 2am, when everything in Bairro Alto starts to close, you should pick up 130 going out
and regroup in another part of the city. It’s neither for the décor nor the drinks that Lounge bar (Rua da moeda, 1, Cais do Sodré) is always full. Hidden down a dark street, it’s home to loyal devotees who know that every night here brings the promise of something new, from gigs by fresh talents to DJ sets that spin into the wee hours. The space is small, but that doesn’t seem to stop people gyrating on the improvised dance floor. In Estado Líquido (Largo de Santos, 5A), the atmosphere is also energetic, yet allows for conversations, mostly among people in their 20s with a penchant for white shirts. Nearby, Mini-Mercado (Av. D. Carlos I, 67, Santos) is aptly named. It’s small, but inside is stocked with good music, from hip hop to funk, with plenty of fruit cocktails to keep your sugar levels sufficiently elevated. When you feel the floor shifting beneath you, it’s time to wander closer to the river to catch some fresh air on the way to somewhere even more energetic. In the Lisbon night, all paths lead to the city’s only real superclub Lux (Av. Infante Dom Henrique Armazém A). A converted warehouse facing the Tagus, Lux never suffers from a shortage of good music – house, techno, minimal, electro and so on. But follow our advice: Thursday evenings are the best. There are fewer people than at the weekends, and the programme is always interesting, with international and Portuguese DJs on call. The entrance fee is €12, which includes two beers inside. Another option along the waterfront is Op Art (Doca de Santo Amaro). Seen from the outside, it’s nothing more than a small glass box, but this is an optical illusion. Behind these glass walls is a restaurant that turns into a club after the clock strikes 12. When it’s warm, the walls open out, and the space extends down to the water. With the 25th April Bridge twinkling in the background, this is the best place for a summer evening. Entrance fee depends on the event. Moving inland, but also away from the city centre fray, is Tuatara (Rua do Centro Cultural, 27, 3rd, Alvalade). Here the party is always different and, depending on when you show up, you’ll find anything from house to trance to chill-out nights. Check their webpage to see what they’re up to (www.tuatara.pt). Now, Nightwalker, all you have to do is choose. Where shall we go now? going out 131
132 going out
o
ping out great music for more than a decade. They host known Djs, VJs and live gigs. If you don’t mak e it onto the cramped, smoky dance floor, you can still enjoy the funk, jazzy R&B an d African root s sounds. W head down the hill to Bica-me (no. 51), a good place for a gla ine-lovers sh ss plus in ould v e n tive delic keep zigzagging down to a cosy African bar, Belo da B ic a acies on (no. 23 the side. but in ), on y Or our left side . The r it’s a ed ligh drink good t is a b place and it racy a on to ch , e-m ill wit cros h you an s s th how r e st d ate, . Th re for a en s rock et to E witc & s h quin gear whe roll, s an blue the a d ra s, A da B pro m i c pla e a rica per ( yin n o. n po DJ gs p an 26) set o d fo Bic me r or j lk, ust e ae Mig xp cords eri u el en . For ce the ,n ul oth ing timate c the ompa re Gr up s to
between. First stop:
Funicular (no. 44). Every night it’s like somebody’s birthday party. Further on, to your right, are Baliza (no. 51) and Bica Abaixo (no. 62), where people chill out as if it’s summer all year round. On the opposite side is the heart of Rua da Bica, Bicaense (no. 42), a more intellectual hangout, has been pum
Rua da Bica If you’re walking from Bairro Alto to a club in Cais do Sodré, Bica is the party in
going out 133
Excursionista Vai Tu
(no. 6) – literally ‘Go Yourself Excursionist Group – where noisy young p drinks, crowds slurp chea reet id alongs e st days, dine the e rv se and, on Sun b o d and rs or stan ’ve fado singe dominoes, who d an s rd ca in rts pe ex ed ag ned in ever since the place ope probably been playing the take on, inati 1948. If Bica is your main dest funicular up from Rua de São Paulo, or prepare your legs for a stiff walk.
134  going out
The neon lights of the old brothels are still blinking, but the red lingerie is now framed on the walls, the signs now advertise bars , and the clientele are a little more mixed thes e days. Although Cais do Sodré is no longer the plac e where shoreleave sailors seek out easy entertain ment, it’s still a decadent night out. Behind these exotically named doors, rock, electro, reviv alist and experimental music is blaring out. On Friday and Saturday nights, the queues can get long , so best know where you’re going. Step inside the Music Box to witness the hottest Portuguese or international musicians playing nightly concerts, accompanied by visuals from top local VJs. Toky o’s record collection, on the other hand, seem s to have come to a stop in the 1980s, making it an ideal stop for retro fans. In the veteran Jamaica, the atmosphere warms up to the sound of the rock ’n roll, and like many, gets busier as the night build s. In Europa, however, the pace slows down around 4am, before picking up later on between 6am and 8am (or even later), as it consolidates its position as the city’s essential afters. Despite the changes, Cais do Sodré still offers a night to reme mber.
going out 135
MAXIME As kitsch as it gets. Max ime started out as a luxury cabaret for royalty and the bourgeoisie, with its red and black recesses and mirror-covered walls discreet ly witnessing decadent excess. As the venue slow ly slipped into decay, it became an infamous brothel. And now it’s party central once agai n. A touch of Lynch here, a brush with Fellini there, and a great splash of Almodo var make it an outrageous and memorab le place to catch a big-name gig or a cheesy revival act. Maybe you’ll walk in on a huge party, a concert or a burlesqu e cabaret that will leave your jaw on the floor. Heading it all is one of Lisbon’s most charismatic characters: Manuel João Vieira. Two-time candidate for the presidency of the republic, and leader of three nonsense bands with cult status. Take things further. Spend a night with Maxime. Praça da Alegria, 58 (Liberdade) 21 346 7090 Thu-Sat: 22.00–04.00
136 going out
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AN AFRICAN NIGHT OUT
Start at
Casa da Morna
restaurant, featuring the tastes and sounds of former Portuguese colony Cape Verde (Rua Rodrigues Faria, 21 – Alcântara). Besides such unspeakably good dishes as Moqueca and Catchupa, it also belongs to musician Tito Paris and is a cult destination for art and concerts. While you’re there, try to figure out if one of
B.Leza’s
occasional wild parties is happening, or check their website at blogdibleza.blogspot.com
Once one of the best clubs in Lisbon,
it closed some time ago, but survives as a series of occasional itinerant parties. After your hearty meal, it’s time for a warming drink. Based in a part of a former convent, (Calçada Marquês de Abrantes, 38A – Santos)
Com Vento Club
mixes the romantic Angolan-Portuguese music Kizomba with r’n’b, Brazilian sounds and hip hop to make a groove all of their own. Then it’s time to really hit the dance floor. Forget about going solo, this is a couples game, so don’t be shy if you’re asked to dance. (Rua de Sousa Martins, 5 D – Saldanha)
Mussulo
is one of the most popular clubs, playing the afore-mentioned Kizomba. With décor straight out of the 1970s, normally it attracts an older crowd and at full blast is quite a sight. Sunday nights are Ladies Nights, with free entry and drinks for girls. If you’re looking for something more lively,
Disco Luanda
(Trav. Teixeira Junior 6 – Alcântara) is a younger hangout, playing sounds including Kuduro and Terrachinha (both from Angola), Funaná and Mazurka (Cape Verde), Kizomba and even the West-Indian Zouk. It’s a never-ending rhythm party so let yourself go and dance so that tomorrow never comes. 138 going out
going out  139
Santo António
t) of the year.
The wildest day (and nigh
practicing for months to compete It starts with a parade, each neighbourhood bright lace, all marching down and suits shiny bows, in a display of colourful and excited. And then it happy is city the Avenida da Liberdade. At this point, ne – goes out onto the streets to starts to go crazy. Everyone – and we mean everyo is upon them. dance, sing and party like the end of the world please (in bread, by hand…), buyyou way any in sardines grilled eating you’re Whether to ing a “manjerico” (basil plant) or drinking red wine – lots of it – the important thing is be there. This 24-hour fiesta is usually held on 13th June, and the excuse is to celebrate Santo António, Lisbon’s patron saint. singers perform to the crowds. Get lost in tiny streets and hear terrible pop get fish smoke stuck in your and jar wine else’s ne someo from Drink of sweaty people in a tiny alley. clothes. Laugh as you get trapped in a sea we advise you to gaze at from a which – areas That’s the spirit! The busier all around the old city, down are – ic distance if you’re at all claustrophob modern-style Santo António More . Alfama and Graça to castle the from de Santa Catarina, playing ouro Mirad and Bica around parties are held insanity usually lasts until The falls. man last upbeat rhythms until the ards is like witnessing a city around noon. To walk the streets soon afterw bed long before that. The after a hurricane, but you probably fell into end after all. did world the it: s confirm day next headache the
140
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Party Calendar
Gulkenkian Jazz Festival August, Gulbenkian
Micro Digital Films
Cosmopolis New Trends and Electronic Music Festival
French Cinema Festival October, Instituto
Cinema Art & Music: Digital Culture Festival June, Cinema São Jorge and Fórum Lisboa
Festa do Avante
Festroia Cinema Festival June, Setúbal
142 going out
10 days in October, Culturgest, Cinema Londres and Cinema São Jorge
Lisbon Village
Franco-Portugais
Portuguese communist party Cultural Festival 1st weekend of September, Quinta da Atalaia, Seixal
Doc Lisboa Documentary Festival
November, around Lisbon
December, Cinema São Jorge
BD Amadora
International Comic Books and Arts Festival October, Amadora
Almada International Theatre Festival July, Almada
MoteLx
Lisbon International Horror Film Festival September, Cinema São Jorge
Chocolate Festival February, Óbidos
Luzboa
Lighting and Urban Art International Bienal September, Several places
Lisbon short Marathon
March, starting in Lisbon’s riverside area Join the locals in this race and get the opportunity to cross Lisbon’s 25th April bridge on foot.
Lx onal
ival
ge
te l
os
Lisbon’s Book Fair
Ilustrarte Children’s Illustration Biennale
2 weeks at the end of May, beginning of June Parque Eduardo VII
November to January; Barreiro
Temps d’Image Image and Stage Arts Festival October, several underground venues around the city
Alive Rock Music Festival
June, Algés
Queer Lisbon
Gay & Lesbic Music Festival September, Cinema São Jorge
Moda Lisboa
Portuguese Fashion October, Cidadela de Cascais
Indie Lisboa
Independent Cinema International Festival
10 days at the end of April, Fórum Lisboa, Cinema São Jorge, Cinema Londres and Teatro Maria Matos
Arte Lisboa Contemporary Art Fair
November, The FIL international exhibition centre
Organ Music Festival
September / October, churches in town
Super Bock Super Rock Rock Music Festival End of May/June Parque Tejo
Fimfa
Animation Cinema Festival May, Teatro Maria Matos
Santos Populares
Feast Days of the Popular Saints Several dates in June, with street parties across the city (see page 140)
Gay
gay  145
Lisbon is a city with a thriving gay life. You can take your pick, from sleeping in a gay-friendly hotel to partying all night, but with such promising action, you might want to leave sleeping for another time.
Eyes wide open, my friends.
Gay
gay 147
The first step is to take a seat at one of the tables at the Pastelaria Bénard (Rua Garret, 104 – Baixa/Chiado), around late afternoon. This is the flirting time. Looks will be exchanged, and so, if all goes well, will telephone numbers. The entire area of Chiado, for all of its cosmopolitan vitality, is also a gay meeting point. The most intellectual of the area’s haunts, and with cute waiters too, are Café Royal (Largo Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro, 29 – Baixa/Chiado) and Restaurant & Bar Mar Adentro (Rua do Alecrim 35 – Bairro Alto). They aren’t exclusively gay, but it’s not unusual to see male couples at the tables. If you want something altogether sweatier and less hetero-friendly, close by in Largo Trindade Coelho, 2 (Bairro Alto) is an aluminium door that hides the underground sauna Spartacus. It is open all night, and on Sunday afternoons it brings together all those who couldn’t pick anyone up during the weekend. It can get a bit decadent – if you’re after a higher class of sauna, better go to Oásis, in Rua do Salitre, 85 (Príncipe Real). And if you’re not planning on returning until sunrise, Lux and Europa (See Nightwalker page) are as essential parts of the gay scene as the hetero one.
Gay
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The more hardcore side of Lisbon can be found beginning with street flirting around the Pavilhão Carlos Lopes, in Parque Eduardo VII. For a blind date, maybe set up online, people often meet up at the Esplanada da Graça (Largo da Graça), with its amazing view over the city.
A night with someone new
This is by tradition the neighbourhood with the most gay hot spots. For an older scene and a dark room, go to Bric-a-bar (Rua Cecílio de Sousa, 84); to dance yourself silly to Madonna and Shakira alongside a young, adventurous crowd, then Trumps (Rua da Imprensa Nacional, 104B) is a must. Finalmente (Rua da Palmeira, 33) has drag queen shows and an aged door lady who has escaped from a David Lynch film, 106 (Rua de São Marçal, 106) is a decent gay bar and, a little further along the same street is Max (Rua de São Marçal, 15), a bear bar with singles night on Mondays.
A night in Príncipe Real
For sophisticated types, head to the corner by the Sétimo Céu (Travessa da Espera, 54). For the more popular, trashier scene, Portas Largas (Rua da Atalaia 105) is the place. Whether choosy or gagging, everyone heads later on to Frágil (Rua da Atalaia, 126), the mother club where Lisbon’s scene really began.
A night in Bairro Alto
Lesbian
gay 151
Harder to find, but very much a part of the city, Lisbon’s lesbians have their own haunts. Some places are filled with both boys and girls, such as the classic Trumps and Lux. But these are for later on in the evening. Let’s start with dinner in Agito (Rua da Rosa, 261 – Bairro Alto), a hetero place filled with all kinds of people, but quietly lesbian as well. Here you’ll dine well (and not expensively), and Wednesdays till Sundays, you can dance after your dinner with a wine glass in your hand. Afterwards, you should try one of the best experiences in Bairro Alto: Primas (Rua da Atalaia, 154-6), a bar run by a group of very charismatic sisters, where you can also catch the footy broadcasts on Sunday afternoons. It has cheap drinks and plenty of background noise, and you might just see one of the Primas (cousins) jumping over the counter to pull one of the rowdier customers back into line. If you’re after a quieter evening, head to Chueca (Rua da Atalaia, 97 – Bairro Alto), or better still, Purex (Rua das Salgadeiras, 28 – Bairro Alto), where most of Lisbon’s partying lesbians gather. Order a Cosmopolitan, the famous house drink, at the bar and then head to the dance floor at the far end. Purex hosts regular parties, and the atmosphere is an arty/gay/lesbian/hetero one. If you want to keep partying, go to Trumps, Lux or Maria Lisboa (Rua das Fontaínhas, 86, Alcântara), a big club with plenty of women and varied music, from 1980s pop to disco and house. If the weekend still has some life in it, there are quiet Sunday afternoon parties at Ilga (Rua de São Lázaro, 88 – Campo Mártires da Pátria), the Portuguese lesbian association (ilga-portugal.oninet.pt), as well as occasional Lesboa parties (check out lesboa.blogspot.com). If you simply want to take your better half for a few quiet days in romantic Lisbon, walk around Bairro Alto in the afternoon on your way to some panoramic spot or other, stop at the sophisticated Mauvais Garçons (Rua da Rosa, 39 – Bairro Alto) or at laid-back Sem Medos (Rua da Rosa, 99 – Bairro Alto) bar for tea and apple cake. Then rest your head on her shoulder and take in the view in the São Pedro de Alcântara garden (Bairro Alto) or the Miradouro de Santa Catarina (Bica).
152
153
carmo hill
Get ready to fall in love. This hill has a name like a fado
singer, a feisty woman, gravel-voiced, hand on hip. Kick off your shoes under the violet Jacaranda trees or plot your own flower revolution. Here you can get the full alfacinha (that’s ‘local’, to you) treatment: The place is rife with lottery-ticket sellers, tascas wall to wall with old men, underground public toilets, kinky sex shops and secondhand book dealers. Only on this hill will you be able to find the outdoor staircase with one of the best views in the city, a ruined convent with a starry ceiling, and the world’s quickest changing of the guard. Don’t leave without: stopping by the trendy cafés at twilight admiring the lovely local girls who walk up to Chiado dressed to kill chatting with the old women who hang their underwear out to dry in the sun leaving some crazy stencil on the wall next to the drunken Viking or the bloke from Monty Python. The only thing you really need to know, however, is that in 1974, it was right here, in Carmo, that people climbed the trees and sang to win their right to freedom in the dying days of the dictatorship. Climb up and release the bohemian revolutionary that lies within us all.
154
ul
Body Beautif
there’s a hippest of tattoo cities, Although this is not the every year. ger big g win gro t’s scene tha thriving underground
155
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886 29 94 www.triparte-tattoo.com
a couple, now they’re not. El Diablo & La Diabla They were hers a ‘bad girl’ hangout. t, haun y abill rock His is an old-style 347 61 26 El Diablo Largo Raphael Bordallo Pinheiro, 30 A (Baixa/Chiado) 21
La Diabla Avenida Duque de Loulé, 66 (Liberdade) 21 353 94 54 156 tattoo
tattoo  157
The Portuguese like drugs.
They’re also quite fussy as far about the quality of their stash. But Lisbon is also discreet, in terms of both behaviour and consumption - people don’t hole up at home just to smoke a joint, but neither does anyone go around flaunting it. Still, before you light up, you should bear in mind that, even though taking drugs is no longer a criminal offence here, you can still get into a legal pit of despair if you’re not careful. Basically, it all comes down to quantity: the law states that you can carry enough for your own personal use for a few days. More than that and it might be regarded as dealing. But the line is a thin one and if the authorities are out to hassle you, they will. Penalties might range from a simple fine and a recommendation to see a psychologist, to imprisonment. Here are some tips: Don’t smoke indoors at bars or clubs (smoking even tobacco indoors has recently been banned). Outdoors is a much better option – this might be one reason why people in Lisbon love being outside so much, in the street, at sidewalk cafés, in front of their favourite bar. Let your nose guide you, as well as your common sense. In some places you’ll be fine, in others not so fine. Usually Miradouros are a perfect place for some happy socialising. Try south of Bairro Alto. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• As far as buying, we can only tell you that it works the same way as in any other European city. Contacts are everything. Know what you’re shopping for and avoid the touristy areas (such as the Baixa and Bairro Alto), not to mention anyone who approaches you out of the blue. The drugs most readily available are cocaine, MDMA, LSD, hashish and weed. •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Prices as of summer 2008 (per gram unless stated): Cocaine normal €40, good €60; Hashish between €5 and €7; MDMA €40; LSD €7.50 one paper, drop €10. 158
159
It might not last. But for now it’s still here, the genuine, the personal, the unashamed, all stemming from a desire to do what we want, how we want, where we want. Fado singers stop in the street and sing, a pharmacy puts a piano in one corner , tiny shops sell strange things that will never make any money. It makes you stop, it makes you smile, it makes you appreciate life in all its strange ways.
Lisbon, you’re so weird, we love you. 160  weird
weird  161
Imagine you bring your favourite Barbie on holiday, and she breaks her leg on the uneven Portuguese pavements. No worries, just take her to hospital. This place has been taking good care of dolls, regardless of age or type, since 1830. The emergency ward is tiny but it’s chock-a-block with old dolls, clothes and other toys. The operating room is upstairs and one day we’re told it will be turned into a museum. Until then, step back and let the doctors take over. Praça da Figueira, 7 (Baixa/Chiado)
162 weird
Follow the whistle. This is history on the move. One of the few remaining figures from the days when Lisbon was filled with a colourful parade of street sellers, is the Amolador. Meaning “the grind man”, he travels around the city sharpening knives and scissors using a specially made grinder on wheels, always announcing his presence with a loud whistle. Listen out for it. Old Lisbon is calling. Around town
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This is where Lisbon ends and ring Polynesia begins. Two neighbou trip bars that invite you on a bizarre back to the 1960s, in pure Hawaiian style. Although they have different names, they’re almost twins in decoration, ambience, drinks, music, waiters and even the little rose they give you as you leave. As soon as you step inside, you’re in ty the tropics: there’s a humid, mus lurk to s seem art us geno indi t, scen d around every corner, and the soun of running water in plastic tubes evokes lost waterfalls on remote islands. Strange cocktails, strange people around you… and that a rumbling noise, is it the Metro or nearby volcano? Bora-Bora Rua da Madalena 201 e (Baixa-Chiado), Avenida Almirant 00 –03. 18.30 194; , eda) (Alam Reis Tangaroa Avenida Almirante Reis 194A (Alameda); 18.00–22.30
The Inquisition used to burn heretic sinners in front of this very church, and then, 500 year s later in 1958, there was a mysterio us fire inside, destroying everything. The church hasn’t been rebuilt since. Keep an eye out for ghostly goings on around sunset. Largo de São Domingos (Baixa/Chiado)
I back home: “I went to Lisbon and You’ll be able to tell your mates A 27-year-old guy has jazzed up ist!” chem the at ert conc o pian attended a of the first in Lisbon), and everyday this centegenarian pharmarcy (one or 13.30) you can hear him play jazz and 12.00 around lunchtime (between tos) (San 1-3 o, Barã e Cond o Larg o. pian d classical music on the white gran
Pollux is an old eight-storey warehouse that sells everything you can imagine for your household. On the top floor, next to the travel bags and umbrella section, find an unexpected balcony with one of the best views of the city. It’s a pleasant mystery even to locals. Rua Fanqueiros, 276 (Baixa/Chiado)
An old-time shoemaker. Shoes strewn about the workshop. A small bench and the intense smell of leather and shoe-polish. Everything would be quite normal, if it weren’t for the owner, who is an old racer. Not just any old racer: he was once a Touring Car Racing champion, and owned more than 100 cars. Get him talking and he might show you his warehouse nextdoor. Get ready to be astonished. It’s a museum with the engines of some of his victorious machines, the fireproof suits, the photos, the prizes and a million tales to tell. He also happens to speak five languages. These days, he’s focusing his mind on slower moving objects, making shoes and boots for the theatre, circus and other shows. Vroom vroom. Rua da Graça, 38A (Graça)
Lisbon offers a huge selection of internet cafés. This one is a little different: it’s run by a Chinese matriarch and her enthusiastic, slightly horny son; the computers have Chinese characters; the room is usually crowded with people playing a kitschy dance game. Still you can order food and Coca-cola there, and it stays open as long as you like. We say 很有趣的事! Rua da Guiné 19 (Anjos); 09.00–00.00 (after that, knock. There’s always someone there)
This is really worth a visit. Not only for the amazing lift, built by one of Mr. Gustav Eiffel’s disciples, but also to experience the shock of coming upon a rather ordinary café on top of a major tourist monument. If you can’t make your way past the conductor who will ask you, in a rather solemn tone, for €1,80 in order to observe this phenomenon, then take the back route and make your way in through the entrance next-door to the Carmo Ruins. Free of hassles and free of charge. Beware: though the café is a strangely ordinary sight, prices are nearly as steep as the walk up its spiral staircase. Entrance by Largo do Carmo (10.00-20.00) (Baixa/Chiado)
Once upon a time there was an old, old cinema in Lisbon, built in 1907, with the most beautiful green, art-nouveau façade. Then one day an evil wizard came along and turned it into a dark red-coloured sex shop containing peep shows and live sex on stage. Pop in and see how times have changed. Rua dos Sapateiros, 225/229 (Baixa/Chiado), Mon–Sat, 12.00–00.00
They call him the waving man. Every night, around 23.00, he comes to the Saldanha area just to say hello to everyone who passes by. João Paulo Serra is 75 years old, and already part of this area’s history. He says he “learned from life a bit too late”, but that by brightening people’s day, he feels happy. If you happen to see him, give him a wave. Av. Fontes Pereira de Melo (Saldanha)
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a bust of Socrates, reads The sign at the door, guarded by worth asking. Inside, It’s n”. issio perm out with y “No entr es and sizes are piled shap all of es figur thousands of plaster and pale white, are ured in all corners. The casts, both colo tucked under it and, os phot ly fami lets, amu mixed with Senhor Acácio. all? of e piec able all, a TV set. The most valu and a smile set hand in h brus -tie, bow a ting spor Always here for 40 years, on his 74-year-old features, he’s been chat. Drop by, good a and what he cherishes most is say hello. and s, ture sculp of ction colle see his 91 923 99 50 61/ 52 346 21 ) Rua dos Cordoeiros, 32 (Bica
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You know tapas. Now you know petiscos. If you’ve had any of these small, delicious plates of home-cooked food, then you’ll already know that petiscos are our passion, our addiction, our reason for finding the strength to lift a fork in the sweltering heat of a midsummer afternoon. And the stronger the tang of the briny deep, the more we crave it, from Saladinhade polvo (octopus salad), to percebes (goose bar-nacles), to amêijoas à bulhão pato (cockles in olive oil, garlic and coriander). After winter’s first frost, petiscos pleasures take a dark and earthy turn: Pica-pau (shredded pork and beef), pipis (fried giblets), moelas (stewed giblets), flambéed chouriço, and sandwiches stuffed with torresmos (pork scratchings) stoke bottomless bellies for the long cold nights ahead. No season is required for classic prawn rissoles, meat croquettes and the omnipresent pastel de bacalhau (codfish cakes). And any time that you happen to find yourself hanging out at a tasca with the old guys, ask for a plate of tremoços (lupin beans) to go with your cool Portuguese pint. Assume a chilled attitude, curse the weather (or one of the football teams), and you’ll be greeted as a brother. Quem não arrisca, não petisca” as they say here. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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If you’re into sensory overload, you’ll be dazzled walking into this minute space, with its walls entirely covered with mirrors, and speakers outside that pump out the constant wailing of fado at full volume. Do yourself a favour and pick up some vinyl, a CD, DVD or an old-school VHS tape of some classic Portuguese film. Any theme, as long as it’s fado. Rua do Ouro, 272 (Baixa/Chiado)
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Santana hill
Expect cops and hookers, bums, outsiders and singing beggars. Foreign students and sweet old ladies watch as cyclists labour past. The colourful buildings are timeworn, the vendors exotic and the bartenders unique. You will never have experienced the full Lisbon adventure until you conquer this astonishing hill, which is a living David LaChapelle photograph, as saturated as life can be. Imagine your trip as a fight, and this is the final round. Absorb the tastes and smell of sex, curry, drugs, cigars and red wine. Let Santana enter your soul.
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Lisbon People on to be a You don’t have to be born in Lisb ation fisherman Lisboeta. From the seventh-gener igrant, the to the Bosnian or Cape Verdean imm about living the hippies to the rich old ladies, it’s t. city in the way that suits you bes s” for no reason Lisboetas – known as “little lettuce have some anyone can remember – say they a reserved : cial spe attributes that make them serious face that nature, a readiness to complain, a soul with its breaks easily into a smile, a poetic sea. back to Europe and its eyes out to ts running off mis The sound of fado, the winter g as they take the river, the way things take as lon osphere that and no quicker; it’s a hypnotic atm measure. To be a inspires and intoxicates in equal Lisboeta is to be in love.
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1. What
2. What
is the essence of Lisbon? is your favourite restaurant?
Benico Tanaka Artist
Sérgio Antunes Sofia Reis Couto Architects
1. Walking and walking around the older neighborhoods until you lose yourself. 2. When I need Japanese food, Osaki, because here the food has heart. Expresso Bar (Largo Trindade Coelho – Bairro Alto) is my favourite supplier of Portuguese cuisine. 3. Mostly in the streets of Bairro Alto. I’ll go into cheap bar, get a drink and spend the night wandering the streets. 4. Wake up late and have a late breakfast in Largo do Carmo. Then I’ll go up in the Elevador de Santa Justa (Rua do Ouro – Baixa) to watch the river and the city from above, and feel the strong wind. Then I’ll go down to Baixa and walk to Martim Moniz, a plaza that’s deserted on a Sunday, and play with the shadows. I’ll follow the path of tram 12 to the church near the flea market, then climb up to Graça, have a slice of cake and a coffee with brandy in it, finishing just in time to watch the sunset. At night, I’ll go to Saldanha area to have a beer and see a film. Walk home, thinking that the film was just ok. That would be perfect.
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1. Walking from Cais do Sodré to Torre de Belém by the river, go down the castle hill, walk downtown, walk up Chiado, stop in the Miradouro São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint, and end up in Adamastor ou at Noobai (Miradouro de Santa Catarina, Bica); shop at the haberdashers on Rua da Conceição; visiting during the June festival of Santo António. 2. Breakfast at Chá da Lapa (Rua do Olival, 8 – Lapa) lunch at Nova Pombalina (corner of Rua da Madalena with Rua do Comércio – Baixa), dessert at Fragoleto (Rua da Prata – Baixa), afternoon snack at Pastelaria Versailles (Av. da República 15A – Saldanha), aperitif at Ginginha (Largo de S. Domingos – Baixa), dinner at Buenos Aires (escadinhas do Duque – Bairro Alto), late food at Galeto (Av. da República 14A – Saldanha). 3. Maxime (Praça da Alegria – Liberdade) in Irmãos Catita or José Cid (www.josecid. com) nights (local band and singer). If we’re still feeling energetic, Bairro Alto followed by Cais do Sodré. 4. Spring. Walking around. Sleeping late; breakfast with newpaper at Pois, Café, walk from Alfama to São Vicente de Fora, late pizza lunch at Casanova (Avenida Infante D. Henrique – Cais da Pedra à Bica do Sapato, Armazém B, loja 7 – Santa Apolónia), relax in the afternoon at Gulbenkian (Avenida de Berna, 45A – Praça de Espanha); dinner with wine at Sr. Vinho (Rua do Meio à Lapa, 18 – Lapa).
3. Where
do you go out? a perfect Sunday in the city.
4. Describe
Pedro Cláudio
Lidija Kolovrat
1. The Gulbenkian Garden (Av. Berna, 45A – Pç de Espanha), the São Pedro de Alcântara Miradouro (next to Bairro Alto) and Estrela Garden (in front of Basílica da Estrela). The exhibitions at Museu do Chiado (Rua Serpa Pinto, 4 – Chiado), crossing the 25th April bridge on your way into the city, going to the always-pleasant terrace next to Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Av. Brasília – Belém), going to Bica (Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo – Bica) at night.
1. Go to the Botanical Garden (Rua da Escola Politécnica,58 – Principe Real) walk through Alfama neighbourhood, see the river from the viewpoints, and go to the other side of the river. Go to Feira da Ladra (a market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, in Graça). Go to Casa do Alentejo (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 58 – Liberdade), a 17th-century building that is a meeting place for people from the Alentejo province, and has an attractive Moorish courtyard and a restaurant filled with tile… Here I see the real Lisbon, funky and fancy. Follow the route of tram 28. Go to Fábrica Braço de Prata (a multicultural space in Rua Material de Guerra, 1 – Poço do Bispo).
Photographer, Film director and DJ Guida in the evenings
2. Right now it’s A Camponesa (Rua Marechal Saldanha, 25 – Bica). A while ago it’s was A Primavera do Jerónimo (Travessa da Espera, 34 – Bairro Alto) and before that was O Sinal Vermelho (Rua das Gáveas, 89 – Bairro Alto). I seem to end up returning to these over and over again… 3. At Bicaense (Rua de Duarte Belo, 42A – Bica). It’s my Cheers bar – I’ve been going there for ten years, and sometimes I DJ there too. I also go to Music Box (Cais do Sodré), Incógnito (Rua Poiais de S. Bento, 37 – São Bento), Maxime (Praça da Alegria – Liberdade) and Lux (Santa Apolónia) to catch a concert. 4. I hate Sundays. I always do my best to forget them. I normally take the day to work, but the night before doesn’t always allow this, so sometimes I go swimming in the ocean or to some public pool in the city such as the National Stadium. Invariably I eat seafood, at home, at Sol e Mar restaurant (Rua da Alfandega, 92 – Baixa) or at Duas Amazonas (Av. Duque Ávila, 47A – Marquês de Pombal). At night I go to the movies.
Fashion Designer
2. O Cantinho do Aziz, an African restaurant with great food and atmosphere in Rua de São Lourenço 3-5 (Castelo). 3. I go where there’s good live music, no favourites at the moment but Lux (Santa Apolónia) and CCB (Praça do Império – Belém) are regular choices for good venues. 4. Breakfast at Pois, Café (Rua São João da Praça, 93/95 – Alfama), then cross the Tejo or walk along riverside. Catch some sun!
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ould know sh u o y s e it n o b is L  30 yers la p ll a tb o fo t o n e r who a 178  lisbon people
w s
HOT 3O Fernando Pessoa | One of the greatest-ever Portuguese writers (1889-1935) Ary dos Santos | Poet (1936-1984) Almada Negreiros | Modern artist and writer (1893-1970) Agostinho da Silva | Philosopher, poet and essayist (1906-1994) Alexandre O’Neill | Surrealist poet. Founder of the Lisbon’s Surrealist Movement (1924-1986) Mário Cesariny | Surrealist artist and poet (1923-2006) Eça de Queirós | Perhaps Portugal’s best 19th-century realist writer (1845-1900) Rodrigo Leão | Musician and co-founder of the bands Sétima Legião and Madredeus (1964- ) Teresa Salgueiro | Singer, formerly of Madredeus (1969- ) Teresa Villaverde | Film director, awarded prizes in Cannes, Venice, Berlin and Toronto (1966- ) Marco Martins | Oscar-nominated film director (1972- ) António Variações | Controversial singer and composer, posthumously celebrated (1944-1984) Lura | Cape Verdean singer born in Lisbon (1975- ) Pedro Costa | Cannes award-winning film director (1953- ) Joana Vasconcelos | One of the most relevant contemporary artists (1971- ) lisbon people 179
HOT 3O Cassiano Branco |
One of the most important Portuguese architects, responsible for buildings such as Éden Teatro (Praça dos Restauradores) (1897-1970)
José Cardoso Pires | Award-winning novelist and scriptwriter (1925-1998) Tito Paris | Renowned Cape Verdean musician and composer, in Lisbon for more than twenty years (1963-) Beatriz Batarda | Golden Globe-winning actress (1974- ) Maria de Medeiros | Actress, singer, film director. Starred in Pulp Fiction (1965- ) Rui Chafes | Internationally recognised sculptor, works mainly with large pieces of steel (1966- ) Sam the Kid | Hip-hop musician (1979- ) Julio Pomar | Neo-realist artist and sculptor (1926- ) Carlos Paredes | Guitar player and composer (1925-2004) Amadeo de Souza-Cardoso | Pioneering modern artist (1887-1918) Kalaf Ângelo | Urban poet and musician (1978- ) Amália Rodrigues | Queen of fado, actress (1920-1999) Pedro Cabrita Reis | World-famous artist (1959- ) Luís Vaz de Camões | Portuguese poet, spoken of alongside Dante, Cervantes and Shakespeare (1517-1524) Bernardo Sassetti | Pianist and composer, including Hollywood soundtracks (1970- ) 180 lisbon people
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s達o vicente hill
P SÃO VICENTE Narrow streets, distinctive smells, and the feeling that, if you lose your way, you’ll never get out. If Lisbon is a great mixing bowl, then Alfama is the mixture within the mixture inside, a harmonious jumble of colours and flavours, of shadows and light. ¶ It’s an old fishermen’s neighbourhood, similar in construction to an Arab medina, and the home of fado and those who sing it. Artists live here alongside old-timers. Between the silence and festivals, the joy and sadness, it feels as though time has come to a standstill. ¶ There’s a Mediterranean feel to Alfama. If you stop to listen, you can hear the lives, the conversations, the songs and the gossip. Guitar chords fill the air. The men in the tascas idle away. The Tagus river peeps through where you least expect it. During the daytime, life unfurls out in the street. After sunset, only the night owls make an appearance, although some fado houses are open for tourists. The restaurants here are a wonderful combination of the typical and the genuine. The bars are few, but they are real gems, from the tasca that turns into a full-on bar at night, to the closed-door nooks where music is played and poetry read. ¶ Take in the adventure. Don’t be afraid of getting lost, because the only way to explore this neighbourhood is to stumble across surprises that only chance will provide.
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Music
Lisboetas are passionate about music. Strolling around Bairro Alto, the musical heart of Lisbon, you’ll find plenty of treasures hidden in tiny record stores. Whether an electronic idealist, a dance fanatic, a funk addict, a vinyl purist, more into reggae and roots, a seeker of jazz, an erudite music appassionato or simply trying to find a different kind of fado, dive in and dig deep.
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186 shopping
se to th is that typi cal must-h e Lux superclub, th your cred it card wee ave shop that mak is es p for mercy releases fr . All om independe the music world, ra the latest nt an ngin to self-pen d experimental da g from n n Guarante ed songs and ethnic ce music ed so (Santa A fresh. f lu r Cais unds. polónia) mon–sat da Pedra 13.0 Both Vin yl and CD 0 –21.00. s.
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around the trendiest bairro in the e, A good place to start is Rua do Nort many shops are open until late. s. n style gem a straight road brimming with urba
RUA DO NORTE
12
Eastpak
One of four Eastpak shops in the world, with crumbling walls and a system of pulleys to display their backpacks. shopping  187
22
RUA DO NORTE
Crumpler
Handbags and backpacks of all kinds, plus sophisticated accessories with simple lines designed for the urban warrior.
188  shopping
30
Adidas by Sneakers Delight
Looking for a new pair of trainers? Here you’ll find classical models and special editions, as well as clothing, handbags, wallets and hats, all courtesy of those three stripes of Adi Dassler. The walls are a customised canvas by French artist Skwak.
23
El Dorado
This vintage store with secondhand clothing and old vinyl has been a Bairro Alto fixture for thirty years, and remains a bargainhunters paradise.
30
Hold Me
Handbags, wallets, backpacks and small bags from trendy and original brands. shopping  189
60
Happy Days
A shop with vintage décor and elegant, colourful girls’ shoes. 190 shopping
81
RUA DO NORTE
Bad Luck
Olivia Newton-John in her polka-dot skirt, James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause. Bad Luck can dress you for your finest 50s fantasies.
115 117
Agência 117 & Funk
Siamese twins, filled with clothes and urban accessories. Here you’ll find brands such as Skunk Funk, Gola, Adidas, Zen Spirit and Melissa. Agência 117 also contains a hairdresser, with snips available until 23.00. shopping 191
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14F
ELSEWHERE IN BAIRRO ALTO
Urban Fusion
Rua da Rosa European design shop run by a Portuguese-Brit, with original lamps, cushions and lots of unique, fun objects.
Galeria de Exclusivos
Rua da Rosa A small shop, full of detail. Exclusive items from Portuguese designers and its own clothesrepair workshop, to customise new life into tired outfits.
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Lena Aires
31
Lomo (Lomographic Embassy) Rua da Atalaia It’s like walking into a playground. Colours, fun pictures and plenty of different cameras from this mythical Russian brand. 192  shopping
Rua da Atalaia On one of the most charismatic corners in Bairro Alto, this designer has welcomed clients for many years, and deserves her reputation for elegant female clothing made from excellent materials.
71 85
Loja da Atalaia
Rua da Atalaia Design furniture from the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s, all hand picked by Manuel Reis, founder of Lux and one of the emblematic Lisbon personalities. In the 1980s, this shop, along with Reis’ club Frágil, were among the pioneers of an avantgarde movement in Bairro Alto.
Mao Mao shop
Rua da Rosa A funky shop that blends sporty-style items with ethnic clothing and cute bags. T-shirt heaven.
4A
Tom Tom Shop
Rua d’O Século Colourful, playful, perfect-for-agift, Tom Tom will fill your home with those subtle touches that designers appreciate.
13
Fermento
Rua d’O Século Both workshop and shop, making urban handicrafts, childrens’ clothing and accessories, plus decorative toys for grown ups.
shopping 193
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194 shopping
Liberdade venues. Avenida da f Lisbon’s a o st le b o n This is the g the usual h containin tc n re st g n lo A ouis Vuitto including L s d ul, o n S ra n b o ic t ch miss ou ’t n o d t u B of shoes and D&G. e selection u iq n u ry e big-name with its v rands. The b f o ty e ri a arallel from a v along the p s e u n ti n co glamour o. Rua Castilh
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shopping 195
Fabrico Infinito op blending A sophisticated sh sic, mu ts: es several inter s, jewellery, ok bo , ion rat co de ing and works accessories, cloth right at the is of art. The best a with eri fet ca iet qu a end: g a Zen kin oo erl windows ov n have an ca u garden, where yo erful teas, nd wo , ch un br organic stries. pa d an juices, quiches fi. Perfect wi e fre en ev ’s There or after for a break before Alto. o irr Ba g kin ac att 74 Rua Dom Pedro V, (Príncipe Real)
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D ROIUTN A Y G PIN THE C SHOP
Moooi Bizarre. Ecc entric. Dutch . Old meets n ew You, meet M , odd meets minimal. oooi. Rua Antóni o Maria Car doso, 64 (Baixa/Chiad o) 196 shopping
Kolovrat Lab changes lab frequently This fashion designer as , or do e e th the name abov s from m ite at displays Lidija Kolovr fashion se ue ug rt Po the big names in , she ia sn Bo ally from scene. Origin for several on sb Li in d has been base one of d is definitely years now, an mes in na ntemporary the bigger co e, the id as at th l Al . fashion design o. to ul beautif shop itself is ) , 169 (Liberdade Rua do Salitre
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Maria Arlete vs Zed’s Dad
s, 84 (Bairro Alto) Travessa dos Fiéis de Deu
Loja da Maria Arlete one. loved thisyea Fellini would have rs for 30 She was a hairdresser televisions fixed and while her husb in the same space.
Zed’s Dad a Morccan At the entrance stands tside table, inviting you to have a stree cup of tea. Inside, it’s a designer shirt shop. And no ordinary shirts; they’re made with the detail and the minute attention of one who loves what they make.
Rua da Barroca, 7 (Bairro Alto)
VINTAGE VS DESIGN
The materials, the hidden pockets, Both have since changed jobs, but the TV sets are still there, and she has the original patterns, the made-to-measure cut, the now created a world of 1960s and stitching… nothing is left to chan 70s air hostess clothing, plus old ce. The perfectionist behind the hats, shoes, postcards and decorative articles. Shop or clutter, sewing machines is Nicole, and she it’s a curious place to stop by. guarantees personal attention to all visitors. 198 shopping
Shop Wrong Shop A Outra Face da Lua vs Wrong A shop for quirky products that
Calçada do Sacra mento,
25 ((Baixa/Chiado )
Rua da Assunção, 22 (Baixa/Chiado )
A Outra Face da Lua play on Portuguese tradition. A cosmopolitan vintage paradise, Instead of taking home a t-shirt you’ll find articles of clothing that says “I Love Lisbon”, you’ll take belonging to several eras, shoes, hats, one with the Eiffel Tower that says toys and even antique wallpaper. “This is not Lisbon”, or a badge with It also has a café with excellent part of a map of the city, or one of sandwiches and psychoactive teas. our religious saints in fluorescent colours.
e It’s a good place to take a break whil walking around the Baixa.
It’s filled with the wrong souvenirs, designed to confuse and delight in equal measure. shopping 199
Madame Bettencourt vs Loja
She’ll let you in, you’ll climb the stairs to the first floor, and you’ll find three rooms crammed with secondhand clothes from floor to ceiling. Vintage paradise. 200 shopping
Loja Nord If you decide have lunch at fancy Bica do Sapato or eat a pizza at the famous restaurant Casanova by the river, drop into this small shop and immerse yourself in a world of pure Nordic design.
Av. Infante Dom Henrique, loja 6 (Santa Apolónia)
Rua Nova da Trindade, 26, 1º ((Bai xa/Chiado)
Madame Bettencourt The doorbell reads ‘Madame Bettencourt’. Ring it, and she’ll probably come to the window and ask who it is. Don’t be shy, just tell her you want to see some clothes.
Nord
From Alvar Aalto to Arne Jacobsen, it’s Scanditastic.
Barbacã vs Donker Donker Donker means darkness in Dutch, an ironic inversion of the shop’s theme: illumination.
Av. Dom Carlos I (Santos)
hiado) Calçada de São Francisco, 1 ((Baixa/C
barbacã There are a lot of antique shops in Lisbon. This one stands out for its unique, immaculate offerings.
Half shop, half museum, set aside an hour or so to fully appreciate what’s inside.
Inside you might come across a two-metre wide blue glass droplet or a giant cloud with its own silve lining. Let a little light into your life. r shopping 201
THE MARKET EXPERIENCE Ahh, the market. That familiar ritual of supply and demand, older even than religion, art or pillow fights. It’s only in the market that you can sense the life-blood of a culture and the stink of rotten fish. Smell colours, eat sounds, see flavours. The trick is to buy only things that you don’t know what they are…
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Across The Pirate Seas Arrrr. In some parts, there be pirates abound. In Feira da Ladra you’ll find almost anything plundered from another’s ship, from a telescope to a plastic rhino. Feira do Relógio is an explosion of African languages and exotic secondhand bargains; but to sail upon DVDs and car stereos, there’s nowhere quite like the Feira da Praça de Espanha. Feira da Ladra (Flea Market) – Campo de Stª Clara, Graça | Tue–Sat: 06.00-17.00 Feira do Relógio – Avenida Santo Condestável, Chelas | Sun: 06.00-14.00 Feira da Praça de Espanha – Praça de Espanha | Weekdays all day long
All You Need is Food If eating be the food of love, your heart and stomach may explode together. The Mercado Biológico do Príncipe Real (Organic Market) contains flowers of every colour, juicy fruit and ingredients that will mesmerise any aspiring gourmet. In the Mercado de Campo de Ourique, however, it’s the fresh eggs, glistening fish and alluring meats that capture your gaze. But only in the Mercado da Ribeira will you find your true Portuguese Venus: the fishwife. And, of course, the ultimate man, that Apollo of Portugueseness, the Butcher. Mercado de Campo de Ourique – Rua Coelho Rocha, Campo de Ourique | Mon-Sat: 07.00–14.00 Mercado Biológico Jardim do Príncipe Real (Organic Market) – Jardim do Príncipe Real | Sat: 09.00–14.00 Mercado da Ribeira – Av. 24 Julho, Cais Sodré; 05.00–14.00 | Sun-Mon: closed Mercado das Flores (also in Mercado da Ribeira) – Daily from 05.00-19.00 | Sun: closed
The secret Realm Here you’ll get lost in a magical labyrinth inhabited by magical artistic beings. Everyone is a sorceror here: they handmake objects of desire from bits of wood or clay or whatever their imagination can grab, and turn banal objects into works of art. Take a peek into the Ladra alternativa , lose yourself among the stalls of the Feira do Jardim da Estrela or marvel at the Mundo Mix. Feira do Jardim da Estrela – Jardim da Estrela | first Sunday of each month | 09.00–18.00 Ladralternativa (seasonal – contact: ladralternativa@gmail.com) Mundo Mix (contact: mundomix@sapo.pt)
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BUY SOME LITERATURE
SimAo is the man who made a dream come true: to have a bookshop of his own. Don't mention that it’s barely bigger than a closet, you might hurt his feelings. And anyway, size isn’t everything: he somehow finds space for books in five languages rare editions and collections, from all over the world.
Livraria do SimAo (Simon’s Bookshop) Probably the smallest bookshop you’ll ever enter.
Th dr a n p
That is, if you can.
Escadinhas De BUCHHOLZ: It’s calm and has S.CristovAo, 18 that scarce bookshop peaceful(Baixa ChiadO). ness that big chains just can’t get hold of. This is a bookshop from the sixties, with three floors dedicated entirely to reading, music… and quiet.
th r a
Where does he hide it all? ...Old, new, international, local, translated, Portuguese, Buchholz has it all. It also has comfy sofas to sit and and enjoy a coffee, and listening posts in the music selection. Last we heard, commercial pressures were starting to take their eventual toll on Buchholz, so stop by and help keep the faceless franchises at bay. Rua Duque de Palmela 4 (Liberdade)
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BYBLOS: A smart bookshop! More than one hundred and fifty thousand titles are fully computerized. You can almost call a book by its name and it’ll jump right off the shelves.
t n s f L
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There’s also a chil- CDs, DVDs, and an dren’s playground, indoor fountain in a cafeteria, inter- the chill-out area. national newspa- Clever stuff.Rua pers, magazines, Carlos Alberto da Mota Pinto, 17 (Amoreiras)
Don’t worry about it, grab Rua SAo Filipe a coffee and a book, and keep an eye out for some- Nery 25B thing happening, from confe- (rato) rences, to talks betweens authors, from auctions to workshops.
For MAGAZINE lovers:
TEMA Art, fashion, design, architecture, computers, travel, illustration, news, history, literature, comic books, special editions and the latest news from all over the world. Av. da Liberdade, 9-loja 1 (liberdade)
TRAMA: Is it a bookshop? Is it a coffeeshop?
CINEMATECA: This one’s for the film buffs. Cinemateca (The Cinema Museum) has a small bookshop with two seductive sofas and the best of everything printed about the silver screen. Rua Barata Salgueiro, 39 (Liberdade)
FOR COMICS! BD MANIA: Good energy flows throughout this shop, filled with the best cartoons, books, magazines, games, toys and comics. Rua das Flores, 71 (baixachiado) MONGOR HEAD: a warehouse with more than a million pieces of cartoon related stuff dating back to the 60s. Rua da Alegria, 32-34 (liberdade)
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• Time Travel •
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A Carioca Rua da Misericórida, 9 (Baixa/Chiado)
’re just hiding, hiding in tiny The early 1900s are still here. They s, attended by old characters who ther dmo gran of corners and smelling , calculate prices in escudos bulk in g love what they do, sell everythin e you happy. This is a universe of and will give you a discount to mak ng side by side: wigs and mosquito belo ally items for sale that don’t norm some codfish tongues, mothballs repellent, a pair of long-johns and condoms. Nothing is impossible and t sain a of e and eyeliner, a statu r want to come back. neve ll in the past. After being there, you’
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Rua da Conceição (Ba ixa/Chiado)
Rua da Conceição is a paradise for ered kerchiefs, armies of buttons, needle embroid are shers haberda the In seamstresses. s tucked away in row upon row of pennant and threaders, thimbles, old button badges bra padding, drawers. Behind the counter are ribbons by the yard, pom-pom makers, have it. they it, wear or it sew can you If fringes. braces, wooden eggs, darn socks, Conserveirade Lisboa The fish are preserved in time, just like the shop itself. Conserveira’s canned goods come from all over the country: sardines , mussels, trout, eel, roe, horse-mackerel, small mackerel and codfish. Open the tins and set them free. Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 34 (Baixa-Chiado)
Rua da Conceição Haberdashers
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212  shopping
Graç a) Sant o And ré Calça da de 60s S
hoes
is filled with dust and tiny‑sized shoes made between the 1920s and the 1960s. Although it appears closed from the outside, there’s a phone number written on the door, and when you call
41A (
60s Shoes This shop
it, the owner will appear to let you in and sell you what he and his family stopped making 40 years ago. Those in the know travel from around the world to visit this strange little time warp. shopping 213
te a Alceosf perfumes i r a m u Perf 10, the world the name
very specia l shop... Don a Fernanda takes custom ers on an ol ofactory adventure, with Manje rico (Basil), Patchouli, Ve rbena, Myr rh and man more kept y in little alch emical bott behind the les counter. Th ey also sell homemade soaps, face powder (sol by the poun d d) and you can even create your own scent.
Perfumaria Alceste Rua da Conceição, 85 (Baixa/Chiado)
Since 19 blended with e n rit has bee nder’s favou this fou eate r c o of the t , Alceste opera,
Codfish Stores Fish stacked up on top of one another, flattened out and and salted, alongside jars of codfish tongues swimming in liquid, Sodré do Cais hiado), (Baixa-C Figueira da Praça Around much more. 214 shopping
Luvaria Ulisses Rua do Carmo, 87-A (Baixo/Chiado)
original furniture and decoration from 1925. Luvaria Ulisses It’s unique, tiny and still has in can even create your own dream glove and, You gem. a is shop glove In other words, this ritual is well The pair. a on try and inside Walk ready. two or three days, they’ll have them hing that looks like a set of wooden tongs, worth it: the glove is stretched open with somet client places his or her elbow on a small the then r, powde talcum with inside the they dust . Ideal for people going to an elegant gloved ly expert be to hand her cushion and holds out ball or who bite their nails. shopping 215
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Santo andr ĂŠ hill
This is the place to take in your last Lisbon sunset. The entire city unfolds before your eyes, mesmerising and beautiful. From the ancient, almost decaying buildings covered in azulejo tiles, to the new, refurbished houses; from the traditional retailers to the ultramodern shops. And then there are the people up here with you… There are those who have lived here for years and years, people who have influenced the neighbourhood and who have been influenced by it; and then there’s the young people who blossom along the streets of Graça and make it one of the trendiest neighbourhoods to call home. This hill is pure history, with old workers’ housing units and patios spread around the hill leading up to the castle. This hill is pure romance, home to two of the city’s most beautiful miradouros, or viewing points. Take advantage of them to flirt, to fall in love, or to feel inspired. This hill is pure peace.
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220  chill out tour
Mercado do Chão do Loureiro
In this deliriously huge terrace that was once a market, there are sofas, chairs and tables spread around, giving each person their own laid-back piece of heaven. Ideal for: reading a book, romantic mornings, hangovers, sunsets, having a drink, eating some great snacks, getting a tan, planning a project… fill in your own suggestion here. Right down to the soundtrack, these guys know how to chill out. Calçada Marquês de Tancos, 3 (Castelo), Open when the sun is out. Wed-Sat: 12.00–23.00, Sun: 13.00–19.00
Kick off your shoes and relax, the city is at your feet. chill out tour 221
Op Art café It all depends on the time. You might walk into a café, a restaurant or a disco. Or enter one, and leave another. We suggest arriving early, sitting in the cushions outside to enjoy the chilledout sunset, then staying for dinner by the river and ending up dancing to upbeat rhythms under the 25th April Bridge. If it’s the weekend, the fun keeps going till the sun rises again. This is an oasis in the middle of a less interesting part of the city. Doca de Santo Amaro (Alcântara), 21 395 67 87, Tue-Thu: 15.00–02.00; Fri: 15.00–06.00; Sat. 13.00–06.00; Sun: 13.00–02.00; Closed: Mondays 222 chill out tour
Kubo Think big wooden deck, white minimal open-air lounge bar, waterfront. Two water tongues invade the space, bringing a bit of the Tagus river in to keep you company on a summer’s day. Fetch your cocktails from the stylish bar and relax in those sofas while listening to the water flow. This place works as restaurant, and also hosts parties. Claim your sofa early. Rua da Cintura (Santos riverside), 21 393 29 30, Mon-Thu: 18.00–02.00, Fri-Sun: 10.00–03.00, Restaurant: 20.00–02.00, June to August only, www.grupo-k.pt
Chapitô
This is a circus school, a bar, a resta urant, a theatre and a socially responsible institution. And it’s also the perfect sunset spot for that first cocktail with friends. Chapitô has been giving heart to the city’s alternativ e spirit for more than 30 years. It has a grea t view, loads of activity and it’s one of the mos t romantic places this city has to offer. Costa do Castelo, 1/7 (Castelo), 21 885 55 50 Tue–Fri: 19.30–02.00, Sat-Sun: 10.00 –02.00, www.chapito.org
Miradouro de Santo Estevão This is not your typical sightseers’ viewing point, filled with tourists. Only a few locals know about this one. You stand and stare, feeling like a cat on the roof, silently watching the river over Over the city’s balconies. Largo de Santo Estevão (Alfama)
Lê chat qui pêche In a garden next to Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (MNAA) is a rooftop terrace with a gorgeous view. There are both enclosed and outdoor sections, with chairs and sofas and an everlasting chill-out mood. Run away from that city buzz, peace is just around the corner. Rua das Janelas Verdes, Jardim 9 de Abril (Santos)
Esplanada da Graça For when you need to escape everything and see the world from above, this gorgeous terrace awaits. Largo da Graça (Graça), 12.00–03.00, Daily
chill out tour 223
Oceanário
Sit in front of the main tank, and watch sharks swim among colourful shoals. Gaze at huge rays and watch penguins fly underwater. The Oceanário is not so much a big aquarium as a tiny ocean in itself. The location is no less dreamlike, in the heart of Parque das Nações, the location for Expo 98. While in the area, check out the impossibly curved stone overhang, the Calatrava white fishbone Oriente station, and all manner of Jetson-like architecture. Walk around and discover a whole different Lisbon. Very Important Point: Do not go at the weekend. Esplanada D. Carlos I – Doca dos Olivais (Parque das Nações), 21 891 70 02, 10.00-19.00 (winter: 10.00–18.00). Daily, full-price admission €11. 224 chill out tour
Albergaria Nossa Senhora do Monte’s Cocktail Bar Terrace If it’s raining, this old hotel terrace is your secluded umbrella. The prices are higher than we’d for wish but the panoramic view from Lisbon’s highest hill, plus the total secrecy of this place, make it an out‑of-the-ordinary choice for lovers of intimacy, undercover lone rangers and poetic travellers. Calçada do Monte, 39 (Graça), 21 886 60 02, Daily from 16.00–00.00 (Tue: 19.00–00.00) SPA: Lisboa Wellness Center Every city has its spas. Not every city spa offers you a view of an empty football stadium, however. Tucked inside Benfica’s stadium, they also have a great swimming pool with cascade-like jets and all the other pampering facilities you might expect. Maybe the only way you can get the men to enjoy some pampering too. Estádio Sport Lisboa e Benfica, Av. General Norton de Matos (Benfica) 21 711 20 00, www.wellness.pt chill out tour 225
226  where the grass is greener
Jardim Botânico da Universidade de Lisboa For those who want to know more about the Poncirus trifoliat, or just wish to take a nap on the city’s most exotic lawn. R. Escola Politécnica, 58 (Príncipe Real). 09.00–20.00. Entrance fee: €1.50 Jardim Tropical If you’re tired of crowds, make this your garden. It’s not in the centre, but it has a large greenhouse, a wide variety of tropical and sub-tropical plants, a lake and a xylotheque (a library of woods, apparently). Calçada do Galvão (Belém) Closed on public holidays. 10.00–17.00. Entrance fee: €1.50 Jardim França Borges The highlight is 100 years old. This Buçaco Cedar is more than 20 metres wide, and is truly in the heart of every true Lisboeta. There are also food and drink kiosks, a café with outdoor terrace and a playground. Praça do Príncipe Real. Open every day. Free Jardim da Gulbenkian Here, kissing and smoking are the most widely-spoken languages. Throw in a lake and a lawn, and you have the repose of the gods. Avenida de Berna, 45A (Pç. de Espanha). Free Jardim das Amoreiras One of the oldest in Lisbon. Although it’s surrounded by buildings, its many trees turn golden in the autumn. Praça das Amoreiras (Rato). Open every day. Free Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara It has two spacious levels, one of with trees and gravel, the other with lawn cut-outs in a typical Lisbon style. Pretty, green and a moment of silence in Bairro Alto. Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara (Bairro Alto). Open every day. Free Jardim da Estrela Introducing the family garden. Blessed by a monumental basilica, this is perfect for taking walks in, and letting the kids go wild. During the day, that is – at night, the lights seem to be out of order. Praça da Estrela. Open every day. 07.00–00.00. Free
Jardim do Torel One of the best hideaways in the city. A small romantic garden with panoramic views over the city, it has both sloping and even lawn areas, perfect for a picnic or just to lie back, close your eyes for a moment and breathe in Lisbon life. Rua Júlio de Andrade (Campo Mártires da Pátria). Open every day. Free Estufa Fria Perfect to play at Alice in Wonderland. Full of large and small plants, some more exotic than others, it’s divided into a Coldhouse, a Hothouse and a Cacti House. Get lost along the stone paths, small lakes and waterfalls, and keep an eye out for white rabbits. Parque Eduardo VII (Marquês de Pombal). 09.00–17.00. Entrance fee: €1.50 Parque do Monteiro Mor (Museu Nacional do Traje e da Moda) You can skip the clothing museum, as these former palace grounds are worth a visit in their own right. It’s an original 18th-century botanical garden with exotic species from all over the world, containing secluded romantic niches where you can flirt, chat away with friends or simply sit quietly and meditate. There are waterfalls, gazebos, statues and ponds filled with fish and croaking frogs. In spring, the flower beds are particularly special. Largo Júlio de Castilho (Lumiar) 10.00–17.45. Closed on Mondays. Entrance fee: €2 or €4 including museum ticket. Free on Sundays until 14.00 Parque dos Poetas The perfect garden to read in, even if you’ve forgotten to bring a book, because there are lines of poetry painted across the ground. Of course, they’re all in Portuguese, but it’s a good way to chat up a local. Quinta do Marquês, Oeiras (outskirts of Lisbon). Open every day. 10.00–17.00. Free
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228  where the grass is greener
Catch the no. 18 tram going to Ajuda. Ask the driver/conductor to let you know when you get to the Instituto Superior de Agronomia (the Institute of Agronomy). It’s part of a university, and also a place full of secrets to discover. The full walk takes an hour, but it’s a journey to be taken slowly, so give yourself plenty of time.
Your first test is the security staff. Hide this book under your coat, and explain that you’re going to the library to do some research or having lunch with a friend in the restaurant. When they let you in, walk up to the biggest building you can see; don’t enter, but instead skirt around the right-hand side and keep going along the tree-lined path to the Pavilhão de Exposições (exhibition pavilion). Make a right at the Observatório de Lisboa (the observatory) and continue walking until you come to an arrow pointing towards the “Jardim da Parada”. Follow that path – you’ll have a great view of Lisbon on your right – and when you come across the first dirt track on the left, look out for an odd-looking tree. Reach out, touch it and find the secret door. Step into this hidden garden, go to the left of the house and head on up the stairs. The impressive glass building in front of you is the Exhibition Pavilion. Continue past it on the right, along the street with the little houses, until you get to the amphitheatre. Walk past that, turn left and walk all the way up the tree-lined street. When you come across a roundabout, take a left onto a dirt track that will take you to an azulejo-lined terrace with a breathtaking view over the city. Revel in this silence in the heart of the city, broken only by the sounds of nature and the occasional aeroplane flying overhead. There are several paths you could choose to walk back. When you’re ready, choose one. 229
How famous names probably Starry Sundays
Jean-Michel Basquiat Hangover Sunday “Every single line means something” João da 1pm Having brunch at Pois, Café (Rua São 28 from Praça, 93-95, Alfama) 2.30pm Taking tram da Estrela Jardim garden the in walk a for Sé to Estrela to Rua de (Estrela) 4pm Taking tram 25 from Estrela to Chiado, São Paulo, then getting the elevator da Bica buzz before walking around and checking the street mojito a then ate, chocol hot Having 5pm and graffiti s (Rua in front of the window at Les Mauvaid Garçon sunset at da Rosa, 3, Bairro Alto) 6pm Watching the Bairro Miradouro de Santa Catarina (aka Adamastor, nal traditio cheap, in dinner Having m Alto) 8.30p sa das Portuguese restaurant Adega das Mercês (Traves football Mercês, 2, Bairro Alto) 10pm Playing table Atalaia, 3, while having a drink at Mahjong (Rua da away at night the g Dancin m 12.30p Alto) Bairro Lounge Bar (Rua da Moeda 1, Cais Sodré)
230 starry sunday
Tim Burton Freaky Freaky Sunday “One person’s craziness is another person’s reality” (Cais 7am Still dancing at After Hours at club Europa soup) and (green verde” “caldo a Having 10am do Sodré) eira (Av 24 “arroz doce” (sweet rice) breakfast at Merend show at Julho, 54G, Santos) 11am Checking out a puppet das, Rua da Museu das Marionetas (Convento das Bernar from Santos Esperança 146, Santos) 1pm Taking tram 25 Prazeres (Pç to Campo de Ourique to visit Cemitério dos a labyrinthine São João Bosco, Alcantara), a graveyard with romantic cypress tree walk, historical graves from the and an autopsy period, and a museum with strange statues 2pm for… die to is told, been has room. The view, he 2.30pm Taking tram 28 from Prazeres to Martim Moniz St Antão 58, Having lunch at Casa do Alentejo (Portas de nal singing traditio some ng watchi while ), radores Restau Entering from the tiny, rural region of Alentejo 4pm discreetly Hotel Eden (Pç dos Restauradores, 24), passing and hitting by reception while pretending to be a guest, a movie at the top-floor swimming pool 6pm Watching tive cinema King (Rua Vitor Cordon, 37, Roma), an alterna Heading with its own basement bar and bookshop 8pm “Marisqueira to dinner at the Chinese karaoke restaurant 10pm Chinesa” (Rua Bernardo Lima 48B, Saldanha) in the Heading back to Principe Real for a cup of tea (Rua Dom aeroplane miniatures room in Pavilhão Chinês , exhausted, Pedro V, 89, Principe Real) 10.30pm Finally to bed.
e
ly
enjoy the city’s quietest day
Peggy Guggenheim Cultural Injection Sunday “If that collection ever goes up in flames, you’ll know who did it” s of 10am Walking around the art-filled garden 45A, Pç. Fundação Calouste Gulbenkian (Av. Berna to see an De Espanha) 12pm Taking a taxi to Chiado Chiado do Museu at brunch having then ion exhibit tea at (Rua Serpa Pinto, 4) 2pm Having a cup of 4, cosmopolitan Vertigo Café (Travessa do Carmo out the Chiado) 3pm Heading to Belém to check Império, contemporary art at Museu Berardo (Pç do Alto (Largo Belém) 6pm Stopping by the Hotel Bairro of outfit de Camões) for a sunset cocktail and a change (Avenida 9pm Having a fancy dinner at Bica do Sapato Pedra, Santa da Cais B, ém Armaz ue Henriq Dom e Infant l scene at Apolonia) 10.30pm Checking the cultura Fernando versatile space, Fábrica Braço de Prata (Rua Palha 26, Braço de Prata)
Dr. Freud Sunday Storm “Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar” g of 6am Observing local hysteria at the openin Having a chat Mercado da Ribeira (Cais do Sodré) 9am poet and about life with the most famous Portuguese Brasileira writer Fernando Pessoa (well, his statue) at Laboratorio Café (Largo do Chiado) 10am Visiting the ing remain only the m, Museu Science of Chimico y. Taking the university laboratory from the 19th centur and having opportunity to check Natural History Museu da Escola a walk at Botanical Garden (all located at Rua some ing Examin 12pm Real) e Princip 56, Politécnica (Rua local-style medicine at Grow Shop Cogniscitiva cating over Diário de Notícias 1, Bairro Alto) 1pm Pontifi Rio (Rua da lunch with an amazing river view at Sushi o Steak Cintura do Porto de Lisboa, Armazém 255 Edifíci collection of House, Cais Sodré) 3pm Viewing the large Farmácia (Rua health and pharmacy history at Museu da Quietly being Marechal Saldanha 1, Bairro Alto) 10pm s at Teatro da a voyeur at the sexy Tango Milonga session s him of his Barraca. Perhaps one of the dancers remind mother. (Largo de Santos)
starry sunday 231
ity of c e h t f o lha) rt e a V e a h d d a l o m The as Al n w how o n w k o ( h a s d s a Alm nding – and it u o r r u s s and it ral is to urban iews close ru ne of the best v . e o also hasbon you’ll ever sel, but you should severa part of Lis here are ng been e river
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T lo by boat. els have uilt a Velha is lheiro. These vess d est one, b a ld o lm A e th to ci , y ca se a l n w a . re ci st e o e The be e bridg ding Eb take a sp under th ggest fin elém and you pass nd we su a n , e e h head to B n w e choices: r sc ready fo aritime have two ra u e o y m a s ca of the m lh r et you ada Ve by variou in 1954. G get to Alm te walk passing ). to n e d n th a s, u minute 20 min Cacilhas, u want a rrives in r than 20 in Cacilhas o e a y g t n a if o , lo b is e ly e Th sR café robab ndido do beer (so p r. Brito, the oldest coffee. 1) Rua Câ food and S a at to se re g d g a d n e n ri h a e u stop early on, mbience places off a th Before yo g ly r. n n e e v re v ri st a e e d h e th e a ke a n g , n ta w u o If yo urite), walk alo uge wind our favo -minute is one n st with a h io te e R a o th y a jo (Atira-te either via jal, to en ts l, in n il G r to h ra e o u e h d a 2) Cais ttle furt the rest ead up th (walk a li along the at one of y. Then h t a ch in w n o e p lu g th r fo s on going viewin e old ruin ) or keep the ugly reet. peak at th -cent elevator to w garden ie uphill st v g re in v d ri n 0 e s 5 rit e e r v th e te n s, n e e ir sta , and st-see take th da Cerca , is a mu um, and the Casa ural space val Muse lt a going N cu g e e in v th ti th alterna nd some river past n fi a s , y b a lu C lw d l a n the e Incríve . There’s ies. Arou summer) and part Velha Th e a e bar, ts d th iv se a J ct in e lm D A ense coll ore often d shows to a s (m u n lm rc e A even p ci l o if it’s Incríve nces to eaks for en, is the performa t, great st p n o Álvaro y ra re u tl e a n h e st on, from Tobi’s re afariz, w ore frequ h t m a C t d o a n d e cakes. a o n n r, corne ha. The et is Larg lls his ow e, r a gingin same stre s) and se fo tr e ce n ct th ri e ce p n rf t e w ty a p her do o at gre to the ci ces. Furt inhas (als if you’re heading better pri us caipir t ro u 2.40). e b 2 n , : e 0 g g .1 ally is at 23 ast sailin (l m lé ré makes re e d B o S to boat ais do The last boat to C nstejo.pt take the www.tra it is v s, g and timin For boats
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away from the city  235
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Beachin' around Sintra/Cascais Between Sintra and Cascais is a vast natural park. You can lose yourself in the immense forest, occasionally encountering castles and manor houses, or hunt down endless and mostly unspoilt beaches. Our Choice: Praia da Adraga It’s love at first sight. The scenery is a blend of mountain and beach, with gigantic rocks strewn about the sand, peering out into the deep blue ocean. It has only the one restaurant (try out the fish soup), so not many people come here. You can’t miss the sunset, but bring a jumper because the wind can make it a bit nippy. Nippier still, the north side of the beach is nudist friendly. Where? Almoçageme, Sintra How do I get there? Best is to rent a car. Alternatively, catch the train to Sintra and then take a taxi out to the beach (around €12). To return to Sintra, arrange a return journey with your taxi driver, or hitch a ride from the passing cars. As a last (or first) resort, you could always sleep out on the beach. Alternatives: Pequena do Guincho (quiet), Abano (secluded), Aguda (secret of the gods), Maçãs (romantic tram journey from Sintra) Costa da Caparica Several beaches rolled into one. It continues unbroken for 30 sandy kilometres, and so the beaches are divided by imaginary lines to distinguish one from another. Each has a lively bar that gives the beach its name (or vice versa). To get there, you can take a romantic trip across the Tagus, either by ferry or train via the bridge. If you take the ferry from Cais Sodré to Cacilhas, then catch bus 135 to Costa da Caparica (45 minutes). By train from Entrecampos or Areeiro, to Pragal, then bus 194 to Costa da Caparica (half an hour). Or the less romantic, more direct bus to Costa da Caparica can be caught in Praça de Espanha. Once you arrive at Costa, you can catch a toytown train along the beaches that runs for some 10km along the coast (€4 return trip). Some of the beaches are only accessible by this train or on foot. Our Choice: Praia da Cornélia — Edge Bar A wide expanse of sand and the calm, calm sea. The beach bar is minimalist and the sundeck overlooks a wonderful ocean view. After a day’s frolicking in the waves and sun-baking, you are entitled to relax and enjoy the Mediterranean cuisine and freshly squeezed fruit juices. It’s the best sunset spot in the area. Where? South of Costa da Caparica How do I get there? It’s one of the first stops on the tiny train. Alternatives: Praia da Sereia – Waikiki , Praia da Mata – Bar da Ponte (busier, for chilling out by day and theme parties by night in the summer)
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Sintra in the Summer
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Sintra is a nearby World Heritage site made up of ten medieval villages, and is a regular tourist destination – but if you know where you’re going, the beaten track is easy to step off for a beautiful day away from the city.
Take the train from Rossio to São Pedro de Sintra. Behind the station, you’ll find the church of Santa Maria.Go around it to a revolving door, which is the best way to make your way up to the castle. It’s a beautiful half-hour forest walk to the impressive castle, itself a great place for a picnic. When you’re done with the castle, take the road towards Parque da Pena. If you feel like it, pop in to have a look at the lovely Palácio da Pena lakes, then keep going towards the centre of Sintra. You’re probably getting hungry. Everyone who visits Sintra tries the travesseiros de Sintra (puff pastries stuffed with sweet egg and almond), usually from the Periquita Café. What most tourists don’t know is that there are two Periquitas:the less-busy one is a little further up the hill, and has a good terrace. But don’t stop there. Have your travesseiros packed to go, and head to our next stop to eat them: Quinta da Regaleira. From Periquita ii, continue up the hill, turn right at the road, go past the crossroads, around the curve, past the fountain … and it’s the breathtaking romantic palace on the left before the road starts going up. This fairytale castle was built in the early 20th century, and is filled with secret entrances, stone doors and hidden caves. It’s a World Heritage site in its own right, surrounded by luxurious gardens and a wild forest. Release your inner child, and keep its energy up with a coffee on the terrace. Then, as the sun sets, walk back down to the centre of the village and get a minibus to Sintra Station. If you’re hungry again, have a snack at Vinyl, a simple snack bar next to the Municipal Library (turn right then left out of Sintra Station). The view from the little terrace, the good music and the great toasted sandwiches make this the perfect place to say goodbye to Sintra in a postcard kind of way. away from the city 239
Sintra in the
Winter
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Catch the train that goes from Lisbon to Sintra at Rossio station, get off at Sintra Village station (don’t mistake it for Portela de Sintra), and turn left out of the station. If you haven’t had breakfast, you’re in luck. Ask for Sapa, which is only a few minutes away on foot towards left. When you get there, order one of the famous queijada cakes and a cup of tea. The perfect table is next to the window. Hopefully, the fire will be going too. Once your stomach has been satisfied, it’s time for a walk. Yes, it’s cold, but that is also part of Sintra’s charm, its mysterious scenery blending in with the mist. Turn right out of Sapa and walk up to the next bend. Go into the garden directly in front of you and take a deep breath of Sintra’s wonderful fresh air. You’ll know the centre when you see it. Take a stroll around, then go to the rustic Estrada Velha restaurant for lunch. You eat well, the atmosphere is young and the prices are not so touristy. To reach it from the centre, walk towards the famous Hotel Lawrence and keep going until you come to an antique shop to your left (worth a browse), and the restaurant is right in front. Don’t order dessert! You have some walking to do first, for about half an hour (it’s worth it). Turn right and keep going to the intersection. Then take the left road. Carry on up through the picturesque streets and always keep to the right path until you come up to another square, which intersects with the main road. There you will notice, straight ahead, a tree-lined path going uphill. Soon, you’ll come to a small magical garden with a view of the castle, where you can take a breather. When you feel ready, take the road on the left-hand side, lined with fairytale mansions, until you reach Largo D. Fernando ii square. From now on, it’s all downhill. Walk down the main road, turn left at the corner after the bank, and walk another fifty metres. Well done, you’ve earned your dessert: a truly magical apple-andcinnamon egg custard tart at Café Natália in São Pedro de Sintra. Here, the cakes are made by the old ladies in the village … and all delicious. To get back to Lisbon, turn left out of the Café and keep going until you reach the main roundabout. Follow the signs back to Sintra down a winding, downhill road lined with trees that passes a Bonsai Museum, and leads straight to the station. away from the city 241
242 away from the city
If it’s cold, there’s a fireplace in one of the rooms inside. This is the ultimate place to escape.
There must be more than a hundred chairs spread outside around this huge multi-level space, all overlooking the impressive Guincho sealine.
FIND IT IF YOU CAN
The view is breathtaking, the snacks are great (try the guacamole), the caipiroskas are amazing.
MOÍNHO DOM QUIXOTE
PENINHA
At least the view is still magical: one of the biggest “rocky chãos” (it’s alctually called like that) on Sintra, called Maciço Magmático.
The highest point between Cascais and Sintra, it has always been a pilgrimage site, with a chapel build on the spot where, we are told, a blind mute shepherdesssaw the Virgin Mary, and was instantly cured.
Go all the way up to the observatory, and if the right guy is there, arrange a donkey walk around it.
How to get there: Drive to Sintra, and take the road to Capuchos, where there’ll be a sign saying Cabo da Roca. Follow the sign to Peninha, and turn towards the Moinho (windmill). If there’s traffic, take highway A5 from Lisbon to Cascais instead, and take in the road sign that says Aldeia de Juso, Cabo da Roca. If you do good, it’s a 40-minute drive from Lisbon... away from the city 243
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her and is a typograp Nuno Vargas e visuals of th on d ke ’s wor al designer. He s such as Jorn r newspaper es. ev webpages fo sle rd co as well as re de Notícias, es between heart, he liv at r lle ve tra A is how he is Th a. rcelon Porto and Ba e areas th nd vibe arou explains the a. go la e Madra of Rato, Estre om ona@gmail.c vargasbarcel
This is A mdf01’s vision of Bairro Alto. He has been developin g profess ional pro since he jects was 14 an d is curr studying ently Fine Arts in Londo His work n. is strongl y influen by street ced art and gr affiti. www.am df01.com
Here’s how Mário Belém sees Baixa/Chiado, Lisbon’s downtown area. Mário is a partner in a design collective called thestudio. www.thestudiosite.com
José Carlos Mendes created a map of Lisbon’s riverside, stretching from Cais do Sodré to Belém. He currently works at Ivity Corp. jose.mendes@ivity-corp.com
Joana Sobrinho is a young designer with a promising talent. She’s works as a web designer and also creates illustrations and comics for various magazines. This is her view on the most multicultural and oldest part of town: Martim Moniz, Graça, Mouraria, Sé e Castelo. zoana.sobrinho@gmail.com
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le cool is about loving life and living love.
best in the city, We are passionate about uncovering the , and then event l specia a to meal ng amazi an from the hippest sharing what we’ve learnt. We don’t care about most incredible the down hunt to want we , latest the or experiences we can find. le cool started in 2003 as a Barcelona weekly email magazine, a funky agenda and a guide to the city’s cultural life, a good friend who’s always in the know. Now we publish email magazines in eight cities around Europe, to 180,000 readers. This is just the beginning. And we never, ever accept payment or favours in return for content.
Visit www.lecool.com to sign up. le cool cities: Amsterdam, Barcelona, Istanbul, Lisbon, London, Madrid, Milan, Rome
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the light 5 lisbon’s cat talk, 10–11 sleeping 12–29 checking in intro, 13 backpackers 14–16 lisbon lounge hostel, 15 lisbon’s poets hostel, 15 oásis backpackers mansion, 14 alfama pátio hostel, 16 lemon hostel, 14 goodnight backpackers hostel, 16 travellers house, 15 lisbon old town hostel, 16 rooms with a view 17–19 pensão ninho das águias, 19 bairro alto hotel, 19 hotel do chiado, 19 like home 20–21 zuzabed, 21 casa costa do castelo, 21 sleeping with history 26–27 hotel as janelas verdes, 26 hotel britânia, 27 design hotels 22–23 fontana park hotel, 22 jerónimos 8, 22 gay-friendly hotels 24–25 solar dos mouros, 25 pouso dos anjos, 25 hotel anjo azul, 25 pensão globo, 25 lavra guest house, 24 splash out/save pennies 28–29 sheraton presidential suite, 28 residencial alegria, 29 santa catarina hill 30–32 moving around 33–45 the lady is a tram, 34–35 walks 35–41 learn lisbon on foot, 36–37 alley cat, 38–39 arabic tracks, 40–41 bike/scooter/segway, 42–43 subversive subway, 44–45 eating 46–81 breakfast vs brunch 48–49 confeitaria nacional, 48 museu do chiado, 48 centro cultural o século, 48 pois, café, 48 deli delux, 49 noobai, 49 veggies 56–57 psi, 56 harekrishna, 56 os tibetanos, 56 jardim dos sentidos, 56 bem–me–quer, 56
espaço da rosa, 56 cheapest lunches in town 50 acisjf (aka “as freiras”), 50 cantina baldraca, 50 tacho & tapas, 50 quiosque fava rica, 50 taste of pakistan, 50 drink more fruit 51 magia dos sumos, 51 nova pombalina, 51 merendinha bar, 51 snack time 52–55 café do monte, 53 royale, 54, 147 vertigo, 55 verde perto, 55 british bar, 54 eat local 58–59 tasca zé dos cornos, 58 adega das mercês, 58 alfaia, 59 pap’açorda, 59 african flavours 60–61 mãe preta, 61 boca picante, 61 o cantinho do aziz, 61 a moamba, 61 associação caboverdiana, 61 en’clave, 61 mr. picante, 61 eat global 62–65 yve’s meals at home, 62 comida de santo, 62 a tapadinha, 63 café malaca, 64–65 flor de laranja, 65 tomo, 63 sushi rio, 64 tsuki, 64 assuka, 64 tamarind, 64 tentações de goa, 65 fish & codfish 66–67 toscana casa de pasto, 67 frei dos mares, 67 casa do bacalhau, 66 seafood 68–69 cervejaria ramiro, 68 gourmet 70–71 olivier, 70 omnia, 70 eleven, 70 clube dos jornalistas, 71 a travessa, 71 yasmin, 71 try romance 72–74 buenos aires, 72 estado liquido sushi lounge, 74 cantinho da paz, 74 flor de sal, 74 afreudite, 74 lisbon sweet lisbon 75–77 pastelaria baloiço, 77 chico careca, 76 salão de chá luso japonês, 76 frutalmeidas, 77
chique de belém, 76 o melhor bolo de chocolate do mundo, 77 after hours eating 78–81 hot pastries, 79 claúdio’s veggie burguers, 78 cacau da ribeira, 78 galeto, 81 café são bento, 80 snob, 80 são jorge hill 82–84 graphic 85–93 street talks, 86–93 art core 94–97 galeria zé dos bois, 95 oporto, 95 kgaleria, 95 voyeur project view, 95 cristina guerra contemporary art, 95 galeria filomena soares, 95 galeria lisboa 20, 96 vpf/creamarte/ plataforma revólver, 96 galeria graça brandão, 96 vera cortes art agency, 96 fundação arpad–szenes/ vieira da silva, 96 culturgest, 96 fundação calouste gulbenkian, 96 museu berardo, 97 museu do chiado, 97 fundação ellipse, 97 museu nacional de história natural, 97 sala do veado, 97 bicaense, 97 restaurante a camponesa, 97 drinking 98–107 ginginha: a one day tour to get plastered tradicionally 100–101 ginginha sem rival, 100 fora de moda, 100 ginginha do rossio, 100 ginginha das gáveas, 100 ginginha de alfama, 100 a ginginha, 100 sangria or cocktail? 102–103 cinco lounge, 103 sangria de alfama, 102 this wine is mine 104–107 alfaia garrafeira, 107 adivinho, 106 néctar wine bar, 107 viniportugal, 107 o botequim , 106 os goliardos, 105 são roque hill 108–110 going out, 111–150 dress up, 114 fun theatres 115
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teatro maria matos, 115 teatro a barraca, 115 teatro a comuna, 115 teatro ibérico, 115 são luiz teatro municipal, 115 cinematographics 116–117 cinema nimas, 116–117 cinema são jorge, 116–117 cinemateca, 116–117 king, 116–117 cinema londres, 116–117 cinecittá & soundcraft, 117 cinemascope, 117 the real fado 118–120 mesa de frades, 120 tasca do jaime, 120 tasca do careca, 120 tasca do chico, 120 caldo verde, 120 portas largas, 120 o fado, 120 jazz 121 hot club, 121 onda jazz, 121 catacumbas, 121 fábrica braço de prata, 122–123 social drinking 124–125 bacalhoeiro, 124 crew hassan, 124 grupo desportivo da mouraria, 124 ateneu comercial de lisboa, 124 grupo desportivo da pena, 124 good old-fashioned fun, 126–127 procópio, 127 a paródia, 126 nightwalker: what are you looking for? 128–131 tejo bar, 130 caxin–bar, 130 bar das imagens, 130 chapitô, 130 santiago alquimista, 130 bairro alto, 130 maria caxuxa, 130 bedroom, 130 capela, 130 souk bar, 130 bicaense, 130 lounge bar, 131 estado líquido, 131 mini–mercado, 131 lux, 131, 147 op art café, 131 tuatara, 131 bica 132–133 funicular, 132 baliza, 132 bica abaixo, 132 bicaense, 132 bica–me, 132 belo da bica, 132 esquina da bica, 132 grupo excursionista vai tu, 133
the streets of cais do sodré 134–135 tokyo, 135 europa, 135, 147 jamaica, 135 musicbox, 135 casa conveniente, 135 maxime, 136–137 an african night out 138–139 casa da morna, 138 b.leza itinerant parties, 138 com vento club, 138 mussulo, 138 disco luanda, 138 santo antónio 140–141 lisbon party calendar 142–143 gay 144–151 pastelaria bénard, 147 café royale, 147, 54 mar adentro, 147 spartacus, 147 oásis, 147 lux, 147, 131 europa, 147, 135 sétimo céu, 150 portas largas, 150 frágil, 150 bric–a–bar, 150 trumps, 150 finalmente, 150 106, 150 max, 150 pavilhão carlos lopes, 150 lesbian 150–151 agito, 151 as primas, 151 chueca, 151 purex, 151 maria lisboa, 151 ilga, 151 lesboa, 151 les mauvais garçons, 151 sem medos, 151 carmo hill 152–154 tattoo 155–157 atomic, 156 triparte, 156 lisboa ink, 156 bang bang, 156 queen of hearts, 156 estúdio eith, 156 bad bones, 156 el diablo, 156 la diabla, 156 drugs 158–159 weird lisbon 160–169 amolador, 163 animatógrafo do rossio, 165 pollux terrace, 164 chinese cyber, 165 bora bora/tangaroa, 164 sr. acácio, 167 discoteca amália, 169
the shoemaker, 165 farmácia açoriana, 164 hospital das bonecas, 162 petiscos, 168 igreja são domingos, 164 sant’ana hill 170–172 lisbon people 173–181 interviews 174–177 benico tanaka, 176 pedro cláudio, 177 lidija kolovrat, 177 sérgio antunes, 176 sofia couto, 176 30 lisboetas you should know who are not football players, 178–181 são vicente hill 182–184 shopping 185–215 music hunting 186 vynil experience, 186 trem azul, 186 embassy sound, 186 prog cds, 186 ananana, 186 louie louie, 186 supafly records, 186 flur, 186 around bairro alto 187–193 rua do norte special 187–191 agencia 117 + funk, 191 adidas by sneakers delight, 188 happy days, 190 bad luck, 190 el dorado, 189 crumpler, 188 eastpak, 189 elsewhere in bairro alto galeria de exclusivos, 192 lena aires, 192 lomo (lomographic embassy), 192 loja da atalaia, 193 mao mao shop, 193 tom tom shop, 193 fermento, 193 urban fusion, 193 shop hop 194–197 kolovrat lab, 197 fabrico infinito, 196 moooi, 196 em nome da rosa, 196 alma lusa, 194 articula, 195 caulino, 197 santos ofícios, 195 santos design district, 194 avenida liberdade/ soul, 195 vintage vs design 198–201 loja maria arlete, 198 zed’s dad, 198 wrong shop, 199 a outra face da lua, 199 madame bettecourt, 200 loja nord, 200 barbacan, 201
donker, 201 the market experience 202–205 across the pirate seas feira da ladra, 205 feira da praça de espanha, 205 feira do relógio, 205 all you need is food mercado de campo de ourique, 205 mercado biológico do príncipe real, 205 mercado da ribeira, 205 mercado das flores, 205 the secret realm feira da ladra alternativa, 205 mundo mix, 205 feira do jardim da estrela, 205 buy some literature 206–207 livraria do simão, 206 buchholz, 206 cinemateca, 207 byblos, 206 trama, 207 tema magz, 207 bd mania, 207 mongor head, 207 time travel 208–215 a carioca, 208 hats, gloves and tailoring luvaria ulisses, 215 alfaiataria picadilly, 212 chapelaria do rossio, 209 rua da conceição haberdashers, 210 conserveira de lisboa, 210 a vida portuguesa, 211 60’s shoes, 213 perfumaria alcéste, 214 drogarias, 211 codfish stores, 214 santo andré hill 216–218 lisbon chill out tour 219–231 mercado do chão do loureiro, 221 le chat qui pêche, 223 miradouro de santo estevão, 223 chapitô, 223 esplanada da graça, 223 op art, 222 kubo, 222 if it rains albergaria senhora do monte, 225 oceanário, 224 lisboa wellness centre, 225 where the grass is greener 226–229 jardim botânico, 227 jardim tropical, 227 jardim frança borges, 227
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jardim gulbenkian, 227 jardim das amoreiras, 227 jardim são pedro de alcântara, 227 jardim da estrela, 227 jardim do torel, 227 estufa fria, 227 parque do monteiro mor, 227 parque dos poetas, 227 gaze in silence 229 instituto superior de agronomia, 229 starry sundays 230–231 jean–michel basquiat, 230 tim burton, 230 peggy guggenheim, 231 dr. freud, 231 away from the city 232–243 across the river: almada 234–235 eborense vessel, 234 almada velha, 234 sr. brito, 234 cais do ginjal, 234 atira–te ao rio, 234 casa da cerca, 234 museu naval, 234 incrível club, 234 incrível almadense, 234 restaurante do tobi, 234 caipirinhas do álvaro, 234 beachin’ around 236–237 praia da adraga, 237 praia pequena, 237 praia do abano, 237 praia da aguda, 237 praia das maçãs, 237 sintra (in the summer) 238–239 santa maria (church), 239 castelo dos mouros, 239 palácio da pena, 239 parque da pena, 239 piriquita café, 239 quinta da regaleira, 239 sintra station, 239 vynil café, 239 livraria municipal, 239 sintra (in the winter) 240–241 sapa “queijadas”, 241 estrada velha, 241 café da natália, 241 são pedro de sintra, 241 museu do bonsai, 241 find it if you can 242–243 moinho dom quixote, 242 peninha, 243
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founder/managing director René Lönngren
S T I D
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Andrew Losowsky PRODUCTION Olivier Talbot EDITOR Joana Pinto Correia DESIGN Silva! Designers Art Director Jorge Silva Project Coordinator Levina Valentim Design Coordinator Rui Belo Designers Elisabete Gomes Luís Alexandre Sílvia Pacheco Associate Designer Dörte Lange Assistant Sari Veiga Main Typeface Malaga
E R C
WRITERS Andrew Losowski (p. 12-3, 98-9, 111, 160-1, 173) Artur Soares da Silva (p. 40-1, 61, 138) Carlos Ramos (p. 79, 58, 218, 237) Catarina Ferreira (p. 130-1, 134-5) Catarina Medina (p. 76-7, 126-7, 226-7) Célia Fialho (p. 36-39, 100-103, 124-5, 158-9, 164, 184) David Houfek (p. 70) Filipa Ramos (p. 94-97) Ingrid Fortez (p. 71) Isabel Lindim (p. 62, 64, 71-74, 81, 110, 114, 122-3, 145-151, 176-180, 187-201, 215, 242-3) Joana Pinto Correia (p. 14-16, 19-26, 50, 54-56, 59, 63-71, 78, 103, 163-4, 166, 221-225, 234-5, 238-241, 229) Levina Valentim (p. 62) Mami Pereira (p. 32, 154, 162, 164-5, 169, 202-205, 211-2, 213, 214-5) Miguel Moore (p. 85) Nuno Rodrigues e Sousa (p. 165, 172) Nuno Silva (p. 132-3, 186) Raquel Botelho (p. 84, 156) Vera Morgado (p. 58, 64, 78, 74, 105-107) Sofia Fortunato (p. 80, 230-1, 206-7) Sónia Castro (p. 115, 208-210, 213)
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TRANSLATION Miguel Moore SUB-EDITOR Amy Paulson PHOTOS António Nascimento (p. 17, 30-1, 82-3, 108-9, 152-3, 170-1, 182-3, 191-2, 208-215, 216-7) António T. (p. 144-5, 148-9) Abílio Leitão (p. 118-9, 146-7, 150-1, 166) Amanda Van (p. 80) Carlos Ramos (p. 14-16, 72-3) Dörte Lange (p. 95-97) Flávio Brandão (p. 224) Fontana Park Hotel (p. 23, 26) Hotel As Janelas Verdes/Britânia (p. 26-7) João Boucinha (p. 40-1, 141-2) Joana Pinto Correia (p. 106-7, 220-223, 228-9, 236-9) Jorge Matreno (p. 102-3, 162, 169) Luísa Ferreira (p. 128-9) Mami Pereira (p. 86-89, 203-4) Nati Caño (p. 46-7, 104, 124-5, 155-157) Peregrinowillreign (p. 5-6) Raquel Porto (p. 18-9, 54-55, 78-9) Rudolfo Barros (p. 234-5) Samurai (p. 138-9) Silva! Designers (p. 2, 66-7, 68-9, 94-7, 122-3, 163, 202-5) Steve Stoer (p. 24-5, 52-5, 75, 111-3, 187-193) Thebmag (p. 98-9) Vera Morgado (p. 55, 58, 134-7, 121, 114-5) ILLUSTRATIONS Daniel Lima (p. 198-201) Joana Sobrinho (p. 10-1, 230-1) João Catarino (p. 20-1) Maria João Arnaud (p. 132-3) Nuno Henriques (p. 56-7) Pedro Brito (p. 174-7) THANKS TO Everyone that helped putting this guide together, Benico Tanaka, Donatello Brida, Fabula Urbis, Isabel do Carmo, José Matos, Lidija Kolovrat, Marta Miranda, Miguel Ram, Pedro Cláudio, Ricardo Ayala, Sérgio Antunes, Sílvia Seixas, Sofia Couto and all the indirect people that inspired us to feel Lisbon from a different perspective.
Love it? Hate it? Did we miss something? lisboa@lecool.com www.lecool.com /books
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