Carioca lifstyle a to z

carioca lifestyle

50 words to get the Rio thing

AndrĂŠ V. Eppinghaus

carioca lifestyle

50 words to get the Rio thing

Photography Lucas Bori

Production W. Granja Henrique Paiva

Writers Alexandre Bonfim AndrĂŠ V. Eppinghaus Saul Taylor

Art Direction Joana Plautz

Preface Rafael Lisb么a

Cariocas have no time for protocol or formality. Life is casual and spontaneous in Rio, which is why everyone is always so happy.

Of course, smiles come easy when you have beauty at every turn – beaches, mountains, forest and lagoon – all mixed together and shaped by curves.

But the bossa of Rio extends further than its incredible landscapes and natural beauty. What makes it all so special is the effortless lifestyle that makes everyday living seem simpler, cooler.

Throughout the pages of this book, we aim to introduce you to the Carioca way with the same lightness of touch – without pretension and with a great sense of humour.

Carioca A-Z does not pretend nor claims to be a how-to manual to the city. After all, there is no formula to becoming a Carioca. Everyone writes their own love story in Rio. What the authors do here is what residents of the Marvellous City do best – welcome visitors with open arms and proudly show them their backyard with all their secrets and slang to make you feel as comfortable and at home as possible.

So, if Carioca A-Z is not just another guide to Rio, then you can hardly consider this another boring preface. It is simply the esquenta for a wonderful ride through 50 local expressions that will help you better understand the soul of Rio and its people.

And once you’re finished, dear reader, we hope you’ll feel ready to dive into the city and mingle with your newfound friends – the Cariocas.

Partiu?

5

For Theodoro, Thiago, Juliana, Mateus, Miguelito, Tom茅, Rodrigo, Ant么nio, Lucas, Davi, Laura, Bernardo, Bettina, Giovana, Victoria and all the Cariocas who will come up with the next entries.

A few words to the wise before we start

By now, you will have familiarised yourself with guides that inform you of the best time to visit Rio de Janeiro (all year, by the way), where to go, price points and the general mood of the bars, restaurants and clubs.

You will have pored over books with pictures of Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf Mountain, Carnival and the city’s great, good and gorgeous frolicking on the beach. There are those that tell you where to stay, how to have fun without breaking the bank and also provide a little Portuguese for emergency situations – “eu gostaria de uma caipirinha” (“I’d like a caipirinha”) or “onde fica o banheiro?” (“where’s the bathroom?”). Well, now you can relax.

Carioca Lifestyle A to Z, doesn’t cover any of that. It isn’t intended to tell, teach or lecture, it just fancies a chat, because that’s how we Cariocas are, we love to engage in conversation and treat those we’ve only just met as friends. We are an informal folk, we thrive on instant intimacy which gives us a unique lifestyle, something that this funny little book will happily lead you through.

Unfortunately we had to cut some expressions, a few people and various places from the guide. Firstly, because the Carioca way is an endless topic. Secondly, because you couldn’t easily tuck a book with more than 50 entries into your pocket. And largely because Rio is the perfect place for you to discover on your own.

We have left the words in Portuguese so you can learn to speak, write and play with them. The definitions in English will ensure you avoid coming across as an outsider and play the fool.

We, the Cariocas who wrote this book, recommend you read it in alphabetical order as you while away your time in the shade watching the Cariocas pass by. But it will also be useful in emergency situations, when you should consult it in shuffle mode. We wish you a very pleasant visit to Rio and feel free to return any time, beleza?

9

Açaí

[ah-sah-ee]

Traditional fruit found at juice bars, one of the Cariocas’ natural habitats, strategically plonked on many corners around the city. Açaí has a creamy consistency and comes in plastic cups or bowls and usually with a side order of granola. It gives you energy for the day, crucial sustenance in a place like Rio. There’s no denying a smile on your face while you eat – a big, messy and embarrassingly purple smile – but an honest smile nonetheless.

Altinha

[al-tchee-niaa]

This sport, ubiquitous to the city’s beaches, involves two or more people playing keepy-up with a football, and preventing it from hitting the sand at all costs. Altinha is a skillful example of typical Carioca swing. If you want to give it a try, don’t forget to play close to the calçadão (promenade); we Cariocas prefer bathers to balls in the sea.

11

Arpex

[ahr-paex]

Known as Arpoador to the non-initiated, Arpex is the paradise between Copacabana and Ipanema, where Cariocas, both born and adopted, meet to sunbathe, surf and soak up the scene. From there you have an uninterrupted view of the Dois Irmãos mountains where the unrivalled sunset has received standing ovations on the beach every weekend since the summer of 1968. The Cariocas’ admiration for the sunset is one of the world’s greatest natural love affairs.

13

Azaração

[ah-zah-ra-sown]

To stare with indifference, yet with desire. To smile with intent but without lechery. To approach, back off, and approach again.

To joke with resolve. To exploit the ambiguities at just that perfect moment. And if you can’t work out when that moment is then find yourself a Carioca to offer you some tips. If flirting is an artform for a lucky few, Rio is a city of masters. Of excitement. Of azaração.

Baile [by-lee]

Born on the outskirts of the city, perfected in the favela and practiced all across town, baile is a Rio institution - no matter if it’s funk, charme or gafieira.

Rio is made up of many rhythms and innumerable bailes (dance parties), so leave your shy side at the door and unzip the Carioca inside.

15

Baixo [by-shoo]

The opposite of high.

Except in Rio of course, where many of the top bohemian hang-outs lie in the lower reaches of the city’s neighbourhoods: Baixo Leblon, Baixo Gávea (BG, for those in the know), Baixo Freguesia and even Baixo Bebê (Baixo Baby) at Leblon beach and Lagoa (because little Cariocas also need a place to socialise).

Want to know what’s up in the city? Go Baixo.

Beleza [bay-lay-zah]

If you have already visited Rio, or seen the pictures, you’ll know why it’s nicknamed the Marvellous City. With so many natural beauties – from the beaches to the bods – it makes perfect sense that the word beleza (literally, “beauty”) has become a popular expression of zeal. Meaning “yes”, “cool”, “deal”, or simply “okay”, beleza perfectly captures the spirit of the Carioca. Just remember to say it with a whole lotta bossa (see page 19).

17

Biscoito Globo [bish-coi-too] + [glow-boo] This is Rio de Janeiro in snack form. Biscoito Globo is primarily sold on the beaches and across town by street vendors. Sounds simple?

Well, like the Cariocas themselves, it is. The best way to understand Biscoito Globo is to taste it. And preferably on the beach to maximise the experience. You can choose between salty or sweet, or take one of each and receive a small discount.

Bossa [baw-sah]

The French expression, je ne sais quoi, that defines those intangibles that can’t be explained has its Brazilian equivalent in borogodó.

In Rio, the je ne sais quoi or borogodó, goes by bossa, that feeling the whole world came to understand when a Carioca named Tom and a Baiano named João met in Copacabana in the 60’s.

19

Boteco [boo-teh-coo]

Affectionately known as pé-sujo (literally, dirty foot), the bar – or boteco – is one of the pillars of democracy and society in Rio. Between sips of beer or cachaça and bites of food for any and all tastes, people reinvent the country’s economy, build starting line-ups for their favourite teams, sign peace treaties, write philosophical essays on living or simply sit and lament the passing of a great paramour (no Carioca can bear to live without love). And all this takes place on your feet. Every Carioca has their favourite boteco and counts the waiter as one of their closest friends. But don’t forget, no-one leaves without a saideira. (see page 70).

21

Calçadão [cow-sah-down]

The pedestrianised strip that extends on Sundays and holidays from the pedra portuguesa (Portuguese paving stones) bordering the sand to the central reservation of the avenue from Copacabana to Leblon. A spot where people from all tribes, ages and philosophies can enjoy more precious metres for walking, running, cycling and skating in the world’s most beautiful al fresco setting.

23

Cara [cah-rah]

A common noun for people of any gender, age or social class, which some Cariocas use in conversation as if it were a comma. The only situations that arise that forbid its use are formal, which in Rio are few and far between, so let the caras fly. After beleza, it is one of the most overused greetings in Rio.

Chorinho

[show-ree-nioo] If Bossa Nova was a flirtation with Jazz, then Chorinho is the real Brazilian deal. Chorinho is played with cavaquinhos (small string instruments), mandolins and tambourines and introduced the world to the likes of Pixinguinha.

Generous in spirit, Chorinho is also the term used for that free sip of mate tea from the gallon drum. One way or another, Chorinho is our very own D.O.C. product.

And the C stands for Carioca, of course.

25

Curtição [coor-tchee-sown]

Baile, boteco, calçadão, queuing at the bank, even a slap in the face, in Rio everything can be viewed as curtição (enjoyable). But if you come across someone completely curtição, don’t expect any commitment. And if a Carioca is “estiver de curtição com a cara de alguém” (making fun of someone), relax, it is only a zoação (see page 80). With such a sinistro (see page 69) bunch of people, enjoying Rio is more than just a recommendation. It’s an inevitability.

27

Demorô [dam-o-row]

This slang word literally translates as “it took a long time”, but throw it into everyday conversation and it means the opposite – “sure, now!”. Did someone call you to go for a beer, to the beach, to a Fla-Flu (see page 35) match or anything else for that matter? Reply with a solid “Demorô!” and not only will you be RSVP’ing but you will also be considered one of the guys. And the best part – they won’t be offended if you don’t even bother to turn up.

29

Esquenta [ish-ken-tah] In Rio, all the best parties happen before the main event. For Cariocas, meeting for esquenta (literally, the warm up) of drinks, gossip and azaração is actually more interesting than the formal shindig. Rio’s most famous esquenta is the Samba Schools rehearsal period, the official esquenta of the Carioca Carnival. And it gets hot hot hot!

31

Farofa [fah-roh-fah]

Farofa is the famous accompaniment to feijoada, made with a combination of flour and egg with added ingredients such as bacon and banana. On the contrary, farofa can also indicate a bad event at the beaches, streets and parties in the city, and the farofeiro is that annoying, sloppy person who no-one wants to invite. So be smart and make like a Carioca – farofa is only best when served as a side dish.

Feijoada [fay-jo-ah-dah] As legend has it, feijoada was invented by the slaves, when they boiled beans in water with the off-cuts of the pig. Is that the real story? Does it matter? The truth is that the feijoada – prepared with black beans, a Carioca favourite – when accompanied by rice, cabbage, farofa and slices of orange, went from a simple dish to the status of the most traditional happening in Rio. During summertime, we recommend cancelling any plans you have for afterwards.

33

Fla-Flu [Flah-Fluh] Brazil’s most eagerly anticipated football fixture is between Flamengo, the team with the most supporters in the country, and Fluminense, Rio’s oldest club.

Nelson Rodrigues, one of Brazil’s greatest writers, called Flamengo and Fluminense the “Brothers Karamazov of Brazilian football”.

Watching a Fla-Flu match is one thing everyone must do before they die, be it at Maracanã or in a dingy backstreet boteco – both provide all the necessary atmosphere for such bitter rivalry.

35

Frescobol [fres-coh-ball] Frescobol is another typical sport from Rio with an equally Carioca characteristic – there are no winners, only friends having fun. It simply consists of hitting a rubber ball back and forth with a wooden racket making you feel like a sandy Rafa Nadal. Well, maybe not quite Rafa, but a little more Carioca for sure.

Futevôlei [foo-tchee-vo-lay] Only in Brazil would you find a type of volleyball in which your are forbidden to touch the ball with your hands. And, of course, it has to take place at the beach in Rio. Today this sport is practiced by men and women all over the world. But, unlike football, our top players don’t play abroad. And that’s because there isn’t a better (or more picturesque) court than the shoreline from Leme to Pontal.

37

Gari [gah-ree]

During Brazil’s Imperial period, a Frenchman named Gary gathered people together to clean the streets of the then capital Rio de Janeiro after the horse races. Ever since Cariocas bestowed the name Gari onto the city’s sweeps.

Today, the Gari clean the streets in their striking orange uniform, parade during Carnival and win everyone over with their good humour and the most important job of keeping the Marvellous City more marvellous than ever.

Gentileza [jen-tee-lay-zah]

Cariocas are notoriously kind to Brazilians and foreigners alike.

So kind, in fact, that we even adopted a Paulista (person born in São Paulo), who spent his life preaching love through the streets of Rio – the Profeta Gentileza (literally, the Prophet of Kindness).

The messages he painted on the viaducts of downtown Rio offered alternatives to the evils of the world and his most famous quote – “gentileza gera gentileza”, means “kindness generates kindness” – something Carioca’s always knew by heart anyway.

39

Horizonte [o-ree-zon-tchee]

Everyone knows that the horizon is the line that connects sky and earth, but in Rio’s case it’s the line between sky and paradise.

Beach, parkland, promenade, mountain – there are many horizontal options in Rio to fall in love with. Horizonte also means perspective and fortunately for us, we don’t have to wait until the weekend to run into one of them.

41

Ideia [e-day-a]

Cariocas are full of ideas.

So many so that we give them away for free. We are always on hand to advise or warn, state fact or flirt with an ideia.

Cariocas trocam uma ideia (exchange ideas) on a daily basis. Always based in good conversation, one way or another the ideas flow freely, especially after a beer or two.

Informalidade [in-for-mah-lee-dah-dji] Having reached this far you will have noticed that protocol and formality are not the Cariocas fortĂŠ.

Where else do you find people in fancy bars wearing flip flops? Who else makes you feel like an old friend just for asking the time of day? And who else buys sweets in the middle of a traffic jam and then takes the time to pass one to a stranger in the next car?

Cariocas didn’t invent informality, but we certainly perfected it.

43

Já é!

[jah]+[air] A positive “yes”, in the streetwise, funny and informal sense.

It is more commonly used by “the kids” on a daily basis.

In some situations you can use it to replace demorô or beleza. It’s easy if you practice, já é?

Jacaré [jah-cah-reh] It means alligator everywhere else, but in Rio it is a wild type of surfing whereby Cariocas surf the wave with their chest. The full expression is “pegar jacaré” (to catch the alligator).

And on the unfortunate occasion when the wave ends up catching us, then the alligator becomes a vaca (cow) because that’s the sea showing us just who’s boss.

45

Laje [lah-jee]

More than just a concrete rooftop, the laje is a multi-use entertainment space for flying kites, sunbathing, cooking barbecues, throwing parties, dancing samba and whatever else takes our fancy. And if one day someone builds on top of it, then rest assured, another laje will appear on top of the new one. And life will find its rhythm once again.

47

Mate [maa-tchee]

Mate is a hot and bitter drink, typical to the south of the continent, until it was reinvented by the Cariocas. Mate in Rio is prepared sweet, ice cold and sometimes mixed with its fancy partner – still lemonade – and served on the beach by friendly mateiros. And remember, you are always entitled to a chorinho.

Which is not a tactic to cheat the customer, but a typical demonstration of local gentileza.

Moral

[mow-raal] One of the deep secrets of Carioca culture.

A real Carioca doesn’t try to help, contribute, or explain anything to anyone. Carioca “dá moral”, means to reassure friendship informally and display kindness from the people as a whole. If we impart moral, it means that we like you. If you give us moral, you’ll be treated as one of the family. And if someone está com moral, it means that the person is distinguished or attractive. Whatever the reason, que moral, hein?

49

Muvuca [moo-voo-cah]

A crowded place, and not necessarily in the worst sense. For example, if you go to Maracanã stadium and sit in the middle you are in the muvuca (close to the supporters); you can go to a party or event that is a real muvuca (full of people); you can even join the muvuca (hang out with cool people). But if we tell you to leave the muvuca, don’t think twice – it’s time to take off because things might get ugly.

51

Natureba [nah-too-rae-bah] Cariocas can’t live without chope (draft beer), snacks and feijoada. But they couldn’t show off their bodies along the calçadão if they only ate this kind of food. That is why there are so many gyms and people exercising around the city.

The sanduíche natural (a light sandwich), created by a guy named Pepê, who left his mark on Barra over 20 years ago, can also be found at other beaches and juice houses in the city.

The term natureba is derived from the word natural – to live a healthy lifestyle.

53

Ovo rosa

[oh-voo]+[raw-sah] Every good boteco has a pink egg in its window. But it’s not just for decoration, it’s to wolf down over a chope. It gains its pink glow after being cooked with beats.

As such, the ovo rosa is another of Rio’s street food staples, which is more satisfying than any feijoada at the end of the night.

Note: if anyone calls you for a feijoada at the end of the night it must be a zoação (see page 80).

55

Papo A good chat. And if you enter into a serious conversation with someone then you’re having a papo reto. If you’re looking to give someone a tip or break the ice, then make sure you have a convincing papo to lead with.

And if it works, tá no papo (it’s won). Now, if the papo is bad and there’s no spark, it’s time to partir pra outra parada (see next entries).

[pah-poo]

Parada [paa-raa-daa]

This is the joker in the Carioca lexicon.

You will only hear parada in Rio – it simply means “a thing” – make a parada, buy a parada, see a parada, like a parada, have a parada… You will also hear used in its diminutive form – paradinha.

This is the parada, got it?

57

Partiu [paar-tchew]

Cariocas don’t just go places, they partiu – leave with intent.

Partiu to the bar, partiu to Lapa, partiu to the beach and so on. As exciting as the papo might seem, if a friend says partiu, don’t hesitate, go for your life!

59

Pelada [pae-laa-daa]

Football played simply for the love of the sport.

Barechested on cobbled streets, scoring a goal in flip-flops covered in sand, or in a field with friends after work. One of the most famous peladas can be found at night on the Aterro do Flamengo – the waiters’ pelada. After spending all day on their feet serving customers, they still find the time and energy to play two halves at closing time. Talk about ball greedy...

61

Pista [pish-tah]

Cariocas love the street so there is no surprise that it appears here.

When Cariocas go out they really go out – vai pra pista (“go to the street�). And since no one stands still in Rio, everyone is riding bikes, jogging or skating in the pista, especially the skate pista in Parque Madureira. Partiu?

63

Qual é [kwow-eh] Used as a greeting or a simple “what’s up?”, it can also be employed when you want to hurry someone along – “QUAL É?!”.

All that changes is the tone. If you have any doubts about anything, including this, just turn to a Carioca and calmly ask “qual é?” We will understand.

Quinta [keen-tah]

Short for Quinta da Boa Vista, a place where the Brazilian Imperial family lived for almost 70 years and today makes Cariocas feel like tourists in their own city where they enjoy picnics, visit the museum, breathe fresh air or simply while away a pleasant day with family and friends. But quinta also means Thursday, an excellent esquenta for the weekend, when Quinta (da Boa Vista) is always a huge muvuca.

65

Rolé [row-leh]

To go out for a ride with friends and do something completely loose-footed.

Or, according to the Cariocas, “partir com a galera pra fazer qualquer parada” (leave with the guys to do... whatever).

Dar um rolé (take a ride) is a common way to socialise in the city and many times it helps you find places and events you never knew existed. If you are ever asked to enjoy a rolé then be sure to go. Your inner Carioca will thank you for it.

67

SAARA

[saa-ah-rah] Hot, yes. Desert, no.

This popular market in downtown Rio is packed all year round, and offers new dimensions of muvuca right before Carnival, Christmas and other holidays. Cariocas know they can find anything there, and only Cariocas know that SAARA is written in caps from the acronym Sociedade dos Amigos das Adjacências da Rua da Alfândega (Society of the Friends of the Surroundings of Alfândega Street).

Sinistro [see-nish-troo] A word as magnificent as Rio itself. Sinistro can mean something good or bad, weird or cool. But never ordinary.

Something sinistro is really, really ______________________ (fill in the blank with the requisite descriptor). If you want a suggestion, sinistro may be really maneiro (but that’s one for the next book).

69

Saideira [scy-day-rah]

One of the most important aspects of Carioca culture, the saideira is the last beer before you leave and is usually served for free at your local boteco. But take heed, there are always more saideiras for the saideiras to come until a new bill is opened. Cariocas never leave before the saideira, to ensure no-one leaves too soon. In which case you have two options – drop the glass and run or sit back and chill, because the night’s going to go on and on and on and...

71

Tijucano [tee-ju-cah-noo]

Tijuca is a traditional neighborhood in the North Zone of Rio and its residents relish in their title of Tijucanos.

The reasons for such pride are many and varied, but the essence of it can be boiled down to this: “you might leave Tijuca, but Tijuca doesn’t leave you”. And that’s a promise.

73

Urca [oor-cah]

Urca is where São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro was founded (the explanation requires Rio’s full name). Urca is home to the Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) and the first university in Brazil.

There’s a particular wall that has become a local hotspot, where everyone meets at the boteco for azaração during the esquenta while admiring the horizonte and exchanging ideias about the parada until they head off for a rolé, but not before enjoying a saideira (or two). And where the authors of this book can quite often be found.

75

Vacilo [vah-see-low] Cariocas will never admit to mistakes. From the verb vacilar (to falter) a vacilo is a mistake forgivable only according to the intentions and the level of friendship between those involved.

Now, one mistake might be acceptable, but making too many turns the (ir) responsible into a vacilĂŁo.

And this guarantees a fall from grace with locals and everyone around.

Never become a vacilão, it’s a pain not worth living.

77

Xá comigo [sha]+[coo-mee-goo] Cariocas are one of the few races that can beat their chest and say with pride, “xá comigo!” – count on us, we will find a solution to your problem!

Right? In all honesty, not always. But the solidarity and good will that it represents are much more important than little details like that.

79

Zoação

[zoo-ah-sown] Cariocas are happy by nature. Even when we have a problem, we laugh – at ourselves and others.

It might be because we believe that everything has a solution, or realising that things can always be worse “after all we might not have been born Cariocas.” It leads us to mess with everyone and everything. This is the zoação. So if you ever find us playing with you, relax, we’re just zoando. We eagerly invite you to mess with us in return.

81

Learned a new parada?

Did you see something sinistro?

Went on an amazing rolĂŠ?

Write it down here:

83

50 words to get the Rio thing Açaí [ah-sah-ee]

10

Cara [cah-rah]

24

Altinha [al-tchee-niaa]

11

Chorinho [show-ree-nioo]

25

Arpex [ahr-paex]

12

Curtição [coor-tchee-sown]

26

Azaração [ah-zah-ra-sown]

14

Demorô [dam-o-row]

29

Baile [by-lee]

15

Esquenta [ish-ken-tah]

30

Baixo [by-shoo]

16

Farofa [fah-roh-fah]

32

Beleza [bay-lay-zah]

17

Feijoada [fay-jo-ah-dah]

33

Biscoito Globo [bish-coi-too] + [glow-boo]

18

Fla-Flu [Flah-Fluh]

35

Bossa [baw-sah]

19

Frescobol [fres-coh-ball]

36

Boteco [boo-teh-coo]

20

Futevôlei [foo-tchee-vo-lay]

37

Calçadão [cow-sah-down]

23

Gari [gah-ree]

38

Gentileza [jen-tee-lay-zah]

39

Partiu [paar-tchew]

58

Horizonte [o-ree-zon-tchee]

41

Pelada [pae-laa-daa]

61

Ideia [e-day-a]

42

Pista [pish-tah]

63

Informalidade [in-for-mah-lee-dah-dji]

43

Qual é [kwow-eh]

64

Já é! [jah]+[air]

44

Quinta [keen-tah]

65

Jacaré [jah-cah-reh]

45

Rolé [row-leh]

67

Laje [lah-jee]

46

SAARA [saa-ah-rah]

68

Mate [maa-tchee]

48

Sinistro [see-nish-troo]

69

Moral [mow-raal]

49

Saideira [scy-day-rah]

70

Muvuca [moo-voo-cah]

51

Tijucano [tee-ju-cah-noo]

73

Natureba [nah-too-rae-bah]

53

Urca [oor-cah]

75

Ovo rosa [oh-voo] + [raw-sah]

55

Vacilo [vah-see-low]

76

Papo [pah-poo]

56

Xá comigo [sha]+[coo-mee-goo]

78

Parada [paa-raa-daa]

57

Zoação [zoo-ah-sown]

80

85

The authors of this book send heartfelt thanks to Fabiano Pinheiro, Fernanda Salem, Pedro Lerner, Roberta Savio, Tadeu Souza, Tina Vieira e Vera Santana.