The Guide
the ultimate fashionable easy to follow guide for men to create their own unique style Autumn 2015 Issue
Introduction from the Editor Joanna Latarska
A very warm welcome to our readers, the new ones, and the regular ones, who decided to pick up the new - Autumn 2015 issue of ‘The Guide’. I should promise you would not regret doing so. We made sure we covered all (or at least most of) the areas our readers would be interested to know more about. It is going to be an amazing season, looking through the not so long go Men’s Shows, with the leading London Collections Men, we can not wait to get to it. We tried to gather the upcoming trends and transfer them into an easy to follow guide, digesting what happened on the catwalk, also separating what is new and what is a classic/basic piece which can be just transferred into the new season from before. You will find the content of ‘The Guide’ presented into themed sections, making it even more clear and understandable. Also, remember, this is a guide only, it is up to you how much you take up from it, how you interpret it, in the end, we really want you to create your own unique style.
Hope you will enjoy it !
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The Contents
FASHION & STYLE
Tweed: Harris Tweed pages 3-5 Trending: Quilt pages 6-8 Footwear: The Autumn Guide pages 9-11
INTERVIEW
New Designers: Joanna Latarska pages 12-13
EDITORIAL
JLHT2015: Brick Lane Shoot pages 14-22
TRAVEL
Scotland: Lewis and Harris page 23
NOTES
Note it down ! page 24
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FASHION & STYLE
Tweed: Ha r r i s Tw e e d
Tweed, the ultimate wool fabric for cold Autumn and Winter weather, it keeps you warm and it is amazingly stylish. It comes in all different weaves and patterns. Some of you may associate it with the rather older generation, or English countryside. Well, think again, because tweed is having a significant renneissance moment for few season now.
Have you heard about Harris Tweed before? We so hope you have. If not, here is some essential information about this beautiful Scottish cloth. You may have come across it and had no idea it was Harris Tweed, but with the new knowledge gained you will never look at any tweed in the same way as before. s100% Pure New Wool (Virgin Wool) sFounded in 18th Century sHandwoven in Outer Hebrides of Scotland (by islanders at their homes) sAuthentic Harris Tweed is issued with the Harris Tweed Orb Mark sBeloved cloth of numerous British designers and tailors such as Vivienne Westwood and Huntsman
£ 755
£ 355
£ 670
Everyone loves Saint Laurent (even without the Y). They are edgy and they are cool. And guess what, they are fans of Harris Tweed too. So when it came to making their bags and shoes with a red and black tartan tweed, they asked for Harris Tweed. Can not see the Harris Tweed label on those? The rule is, everything that is made in Harris Tweed has to have a HT label, well why theres none on YSL? ‘because our customers expect only the best, we would not use a fabric that was anything less than that’. (talking about edgy and breaking the rules huh.) Autumn 2015 Issue || 3
FASHION & STYLE
Tweed: Ha r r i s Tw e e d
We all know how you guys (men) love whisky. This will amaze you hopefully. Scientists developed a cloth, a Harris Tweed cloth that permanently(!) gives off a scent of whisky. Groundbreaking. We must say, someone out there had a serious moment of brilliance, if you love tweed - you love whisky, and the other way around, it is inevitable. The ‘smart fabric’ was developed at Heriot-Watt University’s School of Textiles and Design in Edinburgh and Galashiels for Johnnie Walker Black Label and Harris Tweed Hebrides. We are already thinking ideas, Malibu scented swimwear fabrics, or Champagne scented lace for lingerie. Possibilities had been open and may be endless.
All you need. Harris Tweed in one hand. A glass of whisky in other hand.
Lets come back to the Fashion & Style matters. Harris Tweed is also present on the High Street. The British giant Topman unveiled a Premium suiting collection made in Harris Tweed, making it more approachable for younger generationts (we all know how the twenty-something love Topman). The other High Street retailer, the online shop Asos sells clothing, shoes, bags and accessories in Harris Tweed too. The way they advertise and style it is just screaming ‘edgy and cool, must-buy-it’ (models with man buns, tattoos and long beards, yeah you get the idea). Some of them are on sale too! (already seeing you jumping up to open that Asos website). Prices are amazingly pleasant, no need to wait for the pay day.
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FASHION & STYLE
Tweed: Ha r r i s Tw e e d
Harris Tweed is a widely versatile fabric. So what happens if you take a very classic watch case and make the strap with Harris Tweed. Well, Birline happens. It is a new London/Barcelona brand producing Harris Tweed strap watches (separate straps also available). They have managed to connect two classic pieces, creating a new classic. Well done. And there is more. David Gandy, the best and the most handsome of British models (not to even mention his flawless style) is a fan of them. The watches are unisex, and the straps come in a variety of different colours. Prices - watch: £149, strap: £39
While we are at the accessories subject. Take a look at the Walleysmark take on Harris Tweed cloth accessory. They are a new Russian brand making Harris Tweed and leather iPad cases. We are big fans, we came across them on Instagram, and we were positively suprised with their products, such a simple idea, but the outcomes are simply brilliant. For now they are selling on Etsy.com www.etsy.com/ru/shop/WalleysmarkStore Prices: £40-50
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FASHION & STYLE
Trending: Q u i l t
Quilting, normally associated with winter jackets, coats and puffers. Can come in all different shapes and sizes. But the hottest and the coolest one is definitely the diamond quilting. You may know it from the stamp iconic Burberry Brit casual jacket for men and women (and children), or the Barbour jackets. However, quilting can be done in pretty much any fabric, also it can be joined with other fabrics, such as wool or tweed, giving you the endless possibilities! Have a look at our suggestions. Burberry BRIT Reversible Military Blazer £495 It’s reversible (the magic of 2in1), it’s a classic casual blazer, and the price is not sky-rocking either! A must-have.
Barbour HERITAGE Quilted Stitch Jacket £349 Another classic, a Barbour jacket, can not go wrong with that. It’s slim fit, with a rather smart look and we love the contrasting details. And the lining! ‘100% cotton lining is printed with the collection’s exclusive Japanese Tempest print: a dramatic design that brings together the iconic symbol of the Barbour Beacon with the power of the North Sea.’ (www.barbour.com)
Joanna Latarska x Harris Tweed JLHT2015 Quilt & Harris Tweed Jacket
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Emerging designer alert. This comes from the graduation collection made with Harris Tweed. Do we have to mention how much we adore HT? I thougt so. Both fabrications definitely compliment each other. We want one, or two! New designer to keep an eye on.
FASHION & STYLE
Trending: Q u i l t Burberry LONDON Military Quilt Cashmere Jacket £1695 If you are looking for a warm, smart jacket to wear with your suit, call off the search, we found it for you. It’s 100% cashmere, with lambskin trims and a contrast collar melton undercollar. Looking at the price? Consider it an investment.
BELSTAFF Roadmaster Quilted Jacket In Technical Quilt £550 The detailing on this jakcet is just pure perfection. Four heathly sized external bellows pockets will be extremely handy to carry all your necessities, no need for a man-bag!
Moncler Gamme Bleu £1195 When you think ‘quilt’ and ‘puffers’, you automatically think Moncler. They are the specialist in this kind of outerwear, no doubt about it. Here is an example, a bomber jacket with detachable hood, the diamond quilting comes in a much bigger size than normally, only to its advantage, and the little shloulder flap detail is beautiful. Comes in navy too.
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FASHION & STYLE
Trending: Q u i l t
Now, wondering how to wear those quilted jackets and how to style them? We’ve got you covered. Sit back, enjoy your coffee/tea/whisky and look at the examples provided.
Tip: Wear as the inside layer during extremely cold weather.
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FASHION & STYLE
Footwear: The Autumn Guide To break the unwritten convention, it is not only women who are obsessed about shoes, herehere it is men too! We gathered especially for our readers all the types of shoes you will need for this coming Autumn, we organised them into themed groups to make it easier to follow.
BROGUE BOOTS This is our favourite style for Autumn. It is stylish, comfortable and will keep you warm too. Goes well with pretty much any type of trousers (maybe not the joggers) jeans, chinos and even smarter trousers, just roll the hems up a bit, fold the turn ups and you are good to go.
Church’s Suede £300
ASOS Leather £75
Ted Baker Leather & Wool £150
ASOS Leather £50
Charles Tyrwhitt Leather £149
DESERT BOOTS The other type of mens ankle boots. These have more of a laid back, casual feel to them. A must have for the weekends, wear with jeans and chinos. Most of the time they are made in suede, often mixed with other fabrics such as wool and tweed, although they come in leather too. We however, prefer the softness of the suede for them. The HOT colour this season
Clarks Suede & Harris Tweed £89
Lacoste Leather £110
Bobbies Suede £85
Superdry Suede £45
Opening Ceremony Suede £190
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FASHION & STYLE
Footwear: The Autumn Guide
MONK SHOES The must-have shoes for few season now. The most popular ones are the ones with a double strap. They can come as ankle boots too. Monk shoes are the smarter option here, you can certainly wear them with your suit to work. Also a good option for smarter trousers but in a more relaxed casual style (not to mention no undone laces to flap around!)
Kurt Geiger Leather £140
H By Hudson Leather £100
Paul Smith Suede £190
To Boot New York Suede £314
Dune Suede £85
BOAT SHOES Also called Deck shoes. We love them every season, and you do not have to own a yacht or be a sailor to wear them, they still look cool. For colder weather conditions go for the higher ankle boots. They are super comfortable, good for any casual occasion and on top of that we think they are suave.
Sebago Leather & Textile £110
Paul Smith Leather £155
Steve Madden Leather £60
Timberland Suede £100
Lyle & Scott Leather £105
TRAINERS Whether it is low or high tops, we are big fans of trainers. Converses, Vans and the smarter iconic New Balance sneakers. We would wear them EVERYWHERE (maybe refrain from your office...). Also, what happened on catwalks since SS15, is the fashion sneaker, for both men and ladies, designers such as Burberry, Dior and Valentino followed the trend making sneakers a fashion statement.
Burberry Prorsum Leather £395
Vans Harris Tweed & Leather £149
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Dior Homme Suede £670
New Balance Suede £120
Kenzo Leather & Canvas £129
FASHION & STYLE
Footwear: The Autumn Guide STYLING
We are sure you know how to rock some/most of the styles presented, but maybe not all of them. We found some successful examples to show you, as an inspiration and a guide of course.
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INTERVIEW
New Designers: Jo a n n a L at a r s k a
Following our every issue tradition, we are delighted to present an upcoming designer that we totally fell in love with, Joanna Latarska. Joanna is just graduating this year and she made an amazing menswear Autumn/Winter 2015 collection with the renowned Harris Tweed cloth. And since this is a guide for AW2015 season, and since we are probably the biggest fans of tweed in the world (and we encourage everyone to become one too!) here, we have an interview with the designer herself. Interviewed by Martin Reynolds Jr. of Emrging blog (interview is also available at www.emrging.com). Furthermore, you can find Joanna’s JLHT2015 collection photographed in Brick Lane in our main editorial spread.
Martin Reynolds Jr.: If you know me at all, you’ll know I have an insatiable Need For Tweed - so when I heard about the JLHT2015 Menswear Collection, I had to get involved! Admit it... This is one of the dopest collections you’ve seen for a while, right? I was in Harris Tweed heaven for this one! Before the shoot at The University of Hertforshire’s design studio, I caught up quickly with the super-talented emerging fashionista Joanna Latarska... MR: So how did the collaboration with the Harris Tweed Authority happen? JL: Whilst at London College of Fashion, we had one project working with Harris Tweed trainee cloths... and since then I fell in love with how it moulds and how amazing it is to work with! I started to follow Harris Tweed Authority on Facebook and in December 2013, they posted a letter about the Educational Trust Fabric Bank Scheme, which was for students only. I applied and received a reply in February 2014 saying that I was accepted and will receive 10m of Harris Tweed to work with. However, the Harris Tweed Authority later decided to end the scheme due to the unreliability of the students they were supplying! I was devastated as I had done all the whole research and had some great ideas. So I contacted them directly to ask if there was any other way of getting some Harris Tweed material. I remember it was a Friday, so I had to wait a whole weekend for the reply (longest weekend ever!) However, on Monday morning, the Harris Tweed Authority replied and confirmed that the CEO had agreed to make an exception for me! I got the 10m of Harris Tweed from them and promised I would showcase my designs and keep them updated with regards to the collection.
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INTERVIEW
New Designers: Jo a n n a L at a r s k a
MR: What was your vision for the project? JL: The primary research for the collection was based on the idea of wraps, capes and oversized scarves/blanket scarves, which in Menswear are also called ‘Mankets’. Although, throughout toiling and numerous meetings with my tutors, those ideas were dropped. In the end I was happy they were, because I could see that it wasn’t working too well. I decided to do a tailored street-wear inspired collection for AW2015 - with big scarves and also wraps (which are more like bigger, oversized scarves) leaving it down to the wearer as how they want to style it. The base colours are navy blue and bottle green, but there’s also some different shades of blue, khaki green and orange. MR: Who is your design hero? JL: I can’t say just one, it’s changing all the time. A few months back, I would have said it would be ZEGNA, very sleek tailoring and design. But, after working on this project, I’m really into quirky/fun menswear design and different ways of approaching tailoring. Mixing tweeds with different fabrics, playing with checks and colour such as orange. To be honest, when I got the selection of Harris Tweed the first time in March 2014, I didn’t even look at the amazing orange/navy tartan overcheck, and now I’m totally in love with it! MR: Finally, can I keep the check oversized scarf, the navy blazer, the brogue boots, leather bag and a pair of the trousers? JL: *Joanna laughs out loud as she leaves the studio* MR: Well, I don’t know what was so funny. It was a serious question. How rude. Martin Reynolds Jr. April 2015
Backstage of Brick Lane photoshoot.
Backstage of Spring Studios photoshoot.
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EDITORIAL
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JLHT2015: Br i c k L a n e S h o o t
EDITORIAL
JLHT2015: Br i c k L a n e S h o o t
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EDITORIAL
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EDITORIAL
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EDITORIAL
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EDITORIAL
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EDITORIAL
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EDITORIAL
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JLHT2015: Br i c k L a n e S h o o t
Photographer: Jay McLaughlin Model: James Benn (Shoes: Asos) Special thanks to Marek Markowski tailor for letting us use his Old Truman Brewery studio.
TRAVEL
Scotland: L e w i s a n d Ha r r i s
Don’t be fooled by the names! I know these sound like your two best mates from the Middle School, but no, this is actually a name of a Scottish island in Outer Hebrides. It is the biggest island in Scotland, and it so happens to be famous for Harris Tweed (hence the name), from where it originated and where it is still produced. However, as this is the travel section, we shall be guiding you on touring the area. We asked Kristina Macleod of Harris Tweed Authority for a little guide and tips on getting to the island (as we are just Londoners who can only get to places with Google Maps and TFL’s tube map). Firstly, let’s pick up a destination point. Stornoway, as that’s where Harris Tweed Authority is based. Now, there’s few different ways of getting there from London. It all depends on your budget and on the time you would like to dedicate for the journey (and also how adventurous you want to be). OPTION 1: Plane Ok, so if you like to do it the quickest and most comfortable way, take the plane. However, it’s not a direct flight. From London you have to change either in Glasgow or Edinburgh (and the flights are not always straight after each other). Let’s put it into a graph. CHANGE Glasgow Edinburgh
1h 20min
STORNOWAY 1h 10min
OPTION 2: Plane/Train + Bus + Ferry This is the fun one. We would actually recommed this one. The travel is an adventure itself. It’s longer, but cheaper and you get to see more. And on top of that you get a ferry ride. Who doesn’t love those ones. CHANGE
CHANGE 1h 35min
20h
Inverness
1h 20min
Ullapool
2h 30min
STORNOWAY
Alternatively, you can take a plane from Inverness/Glasgow/Edinburgh straight to Stornoway (this might be expensive, with ‘Flybe’ only).
Once you get there, Kristina recommends hiring a car. There is buses available, but they might not come as often as the London ones... Go to www.cne-siar.gov.uk for bus schedules and for more information about the area: www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk Below, few inspirational images of the area, just to get you to book those tickets straight away.
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NOTES
Note it d ow n !
Use this space to note down your ideas, key words, to-do lists, to-buy lists, telephone numbers and all other important information. Draw it, or mind map it if you like! (or just scribble/doodle when bored)
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Very special thanks to: Harris Tweed Authority for supplying the beautiful Harris Tweed cloth.
Joanna Latarska www.jlatarska.wix.com/joannalatarska latarskaj@gmail.com
JLHT2015
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by Joanna Latarska