I d 80s mag final

THE 80S ISSUE NO 304

get up!

1 i-D

Heriot-Watt University School of Textiles and Design Scottish Borders Campus Galashiels Scotland TD1 3HF

C ONTR I BU T OR S FRANCESCA KEENAN - Editor From her start in event management in the south of France, Francesca has worked her way up the industry, attending multiple fashion weeks working for A-class designers such as Elie Saab or Valentino. With her team, she has created a club-kid inspired 80’s themed issue focused on Scotland and what’s available to the youth of today, from interviews with top end Scottish designers to features about political and social event whilst ensuring the accescibility and engagement with our readers.

JORDANNA SINGH - Sub-editor Exploring the communicative field within the fashion industry, Jordanna specialises in drawing feeling and conveying narrative; through the use of mediums such as graphics, photography and layout of media. Her work serves to make a connection with the viewer and deepen the understanding of the creative processes of fashion through contemporary use of colour and design.

ADAM CLEMENT - Photography Fashion Designer and Photographer, Adam, coveys his strong, graphic individual style through the photography of this 1980’s themed i-D issue. As a Fashion Designer, Clement tends to gravitate toward street style. However, a clear 80’s club aesthetic is portrayed in the magazine’s photography through brave use of string LED lights and moonlight in two of the shoots. His photography is bold and unique which is seen through his designs.

KENZI LAIRD - Styling The styling works of Fashion Designer Kenzi Laird embody strong 80’s club vibes that are clear from just a glimpse at the photoshoots featuring inside this magazine. Typically known for her strong use of colour within her designs, she incorporates this brave but effective style into the shooting process. In order for the reader to understand the references to 80’s fashion but unique take on decades most recognised fashion features.

JOANNA HOLTOM - Styling Currently working in communications, Joanna is absorbing the contemporary world of style as much as possible. Alongside working towards a full time job in the fashion industry Joanna immerses herself in dance music around the country. In this issue you can find her feature on the best clubs in Scotland that includes her favourite Flat 0/1. Her love for 80s club couture is shown in the Leigh Bowery review and her styling contribution can be found in ‘doin’ it’ where she explores the art of strong saturated 80s power dressing.

ZARA YOUNG - Makeup Editorial makeup artist and fashion enthusiast Zara draws inspiration from her South American and Indian roots in her contemporary use of colour and design in her work, while maintaining her Glaswegian edge. Her apsiration to be a leading force in the world of editorial makeup and fashion is shown through the various looks she created for this issue alongside her interview with Glasgow’s favourite club kid Charles Jeffrey.

ELLIE OVENSTONE - Makeup

i-D 2

3 i-D

The 80’s issue

After the most recent political events, it is time for the world to stand up and unite against the tragedies happening to our “free countries”.

With an unexpected outcome to the Brexit vote in the UK in 2016 and now the innauguration of President Trump in America in the start of 2017, it is hard not to wonder what is happening to the world we live in and who is voting and making these decisions. From these unfortunate events, we must unite as one and fight for human rights.

Youth fighting back and making their voices heard, provoked a feeling of deja vu in the i-D headquaters and we reminised back to the 80’s where it all began. We thereforre decided it was time to pay homage not only to current events but also to the birth of our magazine thanks to our founder Terry Jones.

As previsously mentioned, we are proud to see youth forming together and fighting for human rights. In contrast to the protests relating to Gay rights in the 80’s, there are hundreds of events worldwide taking place as protests against Trump. Our team was fortunate enough to attend one of these protests in Edinburgh and were blown away by the sense of unity and the amount of people who turned up despite the miserable Scottish weather.

In this issue, we decided to take inspiration from Leigh Bowrie and the club-kid scene, as it represents a group of open-minded people who are unique and not afraid to be themselves; they embody the 80’s perfectly with their extravagant looks and fit the theme thanks to their strong views and opinions on political matters.

Our fashion shoots all took place in normal scenic areas of Edinbrugh to show that no matter where you are you can make a statement through appearance.

To replicate this, we styled our shoots from charity and vintage clothing from the Scottish borders, Dundee and Edinburgh. Kenzi Laird, stylist and fashion designer was indispensible to the sourcing of outfits for our shoots. Through bright colours and different poses we aimed to represent movement in our “DOIN’ IT” shoot. Our variety of models throughout the magazine makes it relatable to each and everyone once again reinforcing the fact that we unite as one against the hard situations of our 21st century.

In his first cover shoot for i-D Adam Clement shot the streetwear enthusiast Game Peruvanin, with styling from Kenzi, Joanna and Ellie, and makeup by Zara, we aimed to reacreate a new version of club kids mixed with a streetwera asthetic inspired by the model himself. To create a club vibe we usd neon lights to light the shoot. The models tattoos are apparent whilst covering one eye. The origianlly thai model, who grew up in Edinburgh is currently studying architecture after a gap year in Thailand where he developped his “Asian street style”.

Our interviews offer the youth both the opportunity to listen and take inspiration from Mark Archer “Altern-8” who is an english DJ from the 80’s who organised raves and acid-house events around the UK and still organises club nights around the Britain. We also offer a top Scottish designer Charles Jeffrey that focuses on club kid attire and makeup. Our two interviews thereore offer inspiration and motivation to the youth of today to be different.

From this issue, you have the opportunity to learn about upcoming club nights, music, style and creative people around Scotland. So make sure to read up and explore your own country as not everything interesting happens in place like London or New York, Scotland has a lot to offer its youth if they look hard enough. Hopefully through this issue, we will have inspired you to look beyond what you know and inspire others to do the same.

FRANCESCA KEENAN, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

i-D 4

A CONVERSATION WITH MARK ARCHER Mark Archer began a project in 1988 which was to become one of the biggest names in rave history, Atern-8. They became renouned for their eyecatching performances where the duo wore RAF chemical warfare suits and dust masks.

In the music industry, who are you most inspired by? At the start of my career in the late 80’s I was mostly inspired

by Detroit producers, Derrick May, Juan Atkins and Kevin Saunderson, Chicago producers Armando, Mike Dunn and Mike Wilson and producers from the UK like ‘A Guy Called Gerald’, ‘808 State and Baby Ford as well as Frankie Bones, Tommy Musto, Lenny Dee and Todd Terry from New York. And in the fashion industry? I kind of still wear similar sorts of things to what I’ve been wearing since I was 15/16, so a lot of Adidas and a kind of B-Boy fashion but I don’t really go for brands or designers, just things I feel comfortable in. What was it like to be in the 80’s music scene? It was a very exciting time, House music only just started and with the creation of acid house the whole clubbing thing in the UK was turned upside down. Suddenly you didn’t have to wear trousers and shirts to a club but could wear trainers and smiley tee’s, the music was just totally underground. Do you care what people have to say about the type of music you play? Of course, it’s the people who come to see you play and who buy your records – that give you the career really, so if I didn’t care my career would soon be over. I try to stick to my roots though, only playing original tracks from that era (1988 in particular) and not playing new remixed versions. I’m trying to keep the vibe and style of the old school raves alive and it has to be done properly. You are sometimes known as ‘the man behind the mask’, why do you think this has become such an iconic part of your image? I guess at the time it was completely different, no one was wearing masks and covering themselves up so it added to the mystery of who we were

5 i-D

but also allowed us to act in a certain way on stage and the image sort of became detached from there being actual people in the suits – it was just Altern8.

What has been the most significant part of your career? Probably when the group was most successful between 1985-1990, from the first ever Altern-8 ep to getting in the UK charts and releasing our album, but there’s been a lot of ups and downs since then and to get to where I am today which has taken a lot of hard work from not just myself.

I’ve had a great time and hopefully there’s a few years left in me. And exciting? Again, the start of my career was very exciting as it was all new but recently I’ve had the chance to play at some amazing gigs like Glastonbury in front of around 40,000 people so it’s all still really exciting even after 29 years.

Do you think fashion & music were as influential in the 80’s as they are today?

Totally, it’s always been something that unites the youth of the country, just like it did back in the late 80’s when the acid house explosion first happened and it’s the same today. Music and fashion have always gone together, there’s always trends in fashion that run alongside certain genres of music and sometimes you can tell what type of music a person is into just by how they dress. Do you think aspects of 80’s culture/lifestyle is still shown in today’s society? We are almost having a re-run of the late 80’s right now, not just in music and fashion but also how bad things are politically. Youth music has been seen as a revolt against the establishment. Certain styles of music now are a way the youth can be heard and it was very much the same with acid house – it was our time.

i-D 6

R AV E

SCHOOL

THE OLD

STYLE OF

THE VIBE AND R AV E

OLD SCHOOL OF THE

VIBE AND STYLE THE

7 i-D

Photographer Adam Clement Model Ejatu Shaw Selection of vintage clothing from the Scottish Borders Footwear courtesy of Adidas (left) and Maison Valentino (right)

DOIN’ IT

i-D 8

9 i-D

i-D 10

Photographer Adam Clement Models Ejatu Shaw and Game Perunavin

11 i-D

i-D 12

Robert ‘Papi’ Moses, student, Glasgow Who is your style icon? A$AP Rocky or Gregory Robert; better known as ‘GogoLupin”. Vintage or Brand new? Vintage. What is your 80’s anthem? Kool and the Gang - Get down on it. Favourite club? Flat 01. Do you consider yourself a ‘club kid’? I would say so, I will go wherever and dance to anything with an up-beat tempo. Headpieces - Yes or No? Definite yes. London or New York club scene? I would prefer London, based on the diversity. Glasgow or Edinburgh? Glasgow. Getting political, describe Trumps presidency in two words? Desperate and Shameful. Who exites you for the future? Raf Simons, I enjoy his pieces and I always want to see more from him.

13 i-D

STAN D TO GETH ER i-D 14

Fen Partington, 18, Edinburgh What do you do? I'm a writer & a carer. What brings you to this protest? Equality is an issue which affects me and my social circle personally but I also believe that fighting, in whatever way you can, against injustice should be imperative to all individuals. You may think issues are irrelevant to you and your interests but that's a fairly short sighted opinion to hold.

In the 80’s there were a lot of protests for different causes. Do you feel there is a link between youth of today and politics? For many of us our very identities are considered a political issue. There's definitely been a shift in the perspective that politics exists within some kind of vacuum you can dip in and out of; politics pervades everything we experience and do and the general public are, seemingly, becoming more aware of this. I don't think there's a link between youth and politics, I think the youth have been politicised, so many have decided to keep informed and to fight for what we believe is right. If fighting for our own safety and often for morality (which so many of those in power are sorely lacking) is political then there's no link anymore - politicians have made sure of that - our every act is political. The youth are disenfranchised and vulnerable but many are turning that into a strength and adopting ideologies which, I believe, will leave the world better than when we came into it.

15 i-D

SAME SHIT DIFFERENT DECADE TEXT FRANCESCA KEENAN

With over 2.2k attendees and 5.7k interested on the organisers social media, Scottish youth are united against Trump and taking to the streets to demonstrate it. With multiple protests taken place since mid January 2017, in both the capital and Glasgow, seperate political parties are bonding over the same cause.

i-D took to the streets of Edinburgh on

civil rights, meaning the rights they

February 11th to attend the second an-

are fighting for we already posess.

ti-Trump protest in the Capital this year.

The march started at the Meadows and

Another reason for Scotlands protests

made its way past the US consulte and end-

is the fact that the population voted

ed at the Scottish Parliament with a rally.

to stay in the EU during Brexit, they are therefore not satisfied with their

What most people would wonder is

current situation, and to make mat-

how an anti-Trump protest in Scot-

ters worse, they feel as though there

land

im-

is no sense of democracy as their new

world.

Prime Minister was not voted in. The

In matter of fact it won’t, but as the new

latter is also making British people

will

change

perfections

of

the

our

political

current

youth of the world, it is our responsibilty to take matters into our own hands and

more aware of the shift to the right in the US that will endanger Brit-

show unity and solidarity for those whos rights have been revocked or taken.

ains trade deals on which they depend affecting peoples civil rights.

As opposed to many other political protests, it was apparent the diver-

The youth of today are realising though current events that they are hav-

sity of people there, from old to young and from every subculture im-

ing to fight to protect their futures and avoiding future wars and danger-

aginable. The protest felt like a welcome to all which is rare for specif-

ous situations. Grassroot protests are essential to securing civil rights.

ic protests as most protests or situations attract a certain type of person.

Our generation should listen to the warning signs to stand ip together against What makes Trump such a common topic is how informed the world is of his every

the rising of right wing powers not only in the US but also on the rise in Europe.

move. As a public figure making his way into politics, it is hard not to hear about the new president, as he is not uneducated in marketing and media and plays

The

outcome

of

on contraversial subjects often for press, nevertheless bad press yet still press.

give

him

press

The

ty of our populations even if the matters dont affect us directly.

ty

major is

the

reason

demographics

for of

people

Trumps his

policies

unpopulariare

against.

We

the

need

the

to

protest he

seeks,

is but

demonstrate

not

to

to

celebrate

show

unity

willingness

Trump and and

and

solidarinot

His contraversial statements have impacts on ethnicities, genders, religions

stand

and LGBTQ rights, meaning nearly every single one of us, or friends of ours.

Getting people involved in actions against him and speading ideas of human

and

watch

people

rights

be

taken

away.

values over money which is hard to get across in such a busy money led world.

Although Scotland have many more reasons for protests against Trump than just being informed on his policies. As a europeen country, Scot-

We have aimed to generate thoughts of the uprising youth movements world-

land alongside most of Europe are finding it difficult to comprehend who

wide that show a generation that is fearless to a world that is filling them with

mainstream opinins in Europe are leftest opinions in the USA regarding

fear and embracing freedom, liberty and standing up for love and poeple.

i-D 16

Photographer @_abbatoir Styling Charles Jeffrey

LOVER

17 i-D

R BOY

CHARLES JEFFREY Come inside and have a drink as we talk 80’s fantasies and fashion politics with Glasgow’s most desired designer Charles Jeffrey who is taking the underground fashion world by storm.

Describe your brand LOVERBOY in 3 words?

Colourful, bold, emotional!

What direction do you see LOVERBOY moving in next?

Something more art based, focused and pure.

What is it that had drawn you to clubkids to begin with and how did you discover them?

All a natural process I made a clubnight, I met the people that came there, they became my friends!

How has clubbing inspired your collections?

The collaborative field that exists in club nights is what inspires me.

What would you consider a modern day clubkid?

Someone who commits to a look to go out.

You recently did a video with i-D focusing on the new club kids of New York - from all of the looks you saw what was your favourite?

Anything by Aquaria.

What are some of your favourite clubs/events to go to in Glasgow?

Vox Pop, anything Stevie Newall asks me to go to!

What are some of your favourite clubs/events to go to in Glasgow?

Vox Pop, anything Stevie Newall asks me to go to!

Do you think Glasgow/Edinburgh has the potential to turn into a creative hub like London?

Yes definitely you just have to believe in it and do something about it.

What do you think can be done in fashion with the current political state of the world?

Designers young old large and small to make a statement.

What’s your 80s fashion fantasy?

Leigh bowery giving birth live on stage.

How has the 80’s influenced you as a designer?

It’s escapism in the club scene.

Photography- Lucy Bridge

Social Media Website- http://www.charlesjeffrey.net Instagram- _charlesjeffrey

Who are your favourite musicians from the 80’s?

Too many to choose, My Bloody Valentine.

What is your best advice for fashion students who are just starting out?

Get a pool of money behind you in order to help you with production, be

Photographer Adam Clement Model Joyce Chong Varriety of vintage clothing from the Scottish Borders

RESPECT IS DUE

19 i-D

i-D 20

21 i-D

i-D 22

OUR CLUBS,

A group of our contributers came together to visit clubs close to the heart. We returned to our roots and visited the main spots for street style and the underground clubbing scenes that we will forever love. Whilst doing this we came across beautiful people with striking style and personalities all undiscovered in these Scottish clubs.

DUNDEE THE READING ROOMS, 57 BLACKSCROFT Dundee is home to The Reading Rooms, a club placed in a converted library. They host numerous club nights including music from various decades; old school house, trance, disco, rockabilly, northern soul and many more. This is the only of its type in Dundee bringing in unique, creative people of all ages. Reading Rooms is a place to enjoy great music, people and style. They also support local up and coming talent from bands like Model Aeroplanes to young artists like Ivan Smith also known as Stolen Computer. Reading Rooms has helped these local talents along by inviting them to perform at big events and giving the artists opportunities to draw and design the very popular posters that are dotted around Dundee and in the club. The Reading Rooms is full of fresh streetwear and new labels like Dreamland clothing, Postal and Manifesto Collaborations.

GLASGOW

FLAT 0/1, 162 BATH STREET

TUESDAY-SATURDAY 8PM TILL LATE Located on Bath Street, Flat 0/1 this reminds us of a good oldhouse party but ten times better. Laid out like a flat, including swings made from baths and 70’s styled sofas, the flat turned club is home to some of the best style and music in Glasgow. You can expect to hear a lot of techno mixed in with old school beats and D&B from the homegrown resident DJ’s. You should also expect an eclectic dress code as the free entry club is a well-known hang out for the students of Glasgow School of Art. The Flat 0/1 outfit would probably consist of something vintage, something Urban Outfitters and something from Supreme. It is possible to pick up a ‘key’ for the flat in order to get discounted drinks and become a regular at this flat.

23 i-D

OUR HOME. EDINBURGH

REGRESSION SESSIONS - THE LIQUID ROOMS 10.30PM-2AM

Meet the new kid on the block who goes by the name of ‘Regression Sessions’. This lively club night started in the city of London and now travels around the UK, bringing the best themed techno night you could ever wish for. Every different night is themed, bringing a new kind of party to a city near you. The last two in Scotland were in Glasgow and Edinburgh following a Red Light Apocolypse theme. In February 2017 the club night came to The Liquid Rooms to bring their ‘Hippy Trippy Shakedown’ to the capital city. With themed décor, dancers, ball pits and bouncy cancels you do not want to miss this trip.

ABERDEEN

TUNNELS CARNEGIE’S BRAE

TUESDAY – SATURDAY 10PM - LATE In the very heart of the granite city lies a hidden gem. Aside from supporting up and coming bands during the week, Tunnels is the heart and soul of the new dance scene in Aberdeen. In the past DJ’s such as Julio Bashmore, Bicep and Fatima Yamaha have graced the city with their up-lifiting trance. Club nights hosted by ‘Let it Bleed’ and ‘All night passion’ have gained popularity as they’re very few contemporary dance nights in Aberdeen. The dress code is very casual and comfy due to the two-step nature of this cold inner city rave hub.

i-D 24

EMBRACE EMBRACE EMBRACE 25 i-D

E THE BLUR

E THE BLUR

E THE BLUR i-D 26

27 i-D

ALISTER WEARS A SELECTION OF VINTAGE CLOTHING FROM THE SCOTTISH BORDERS

Makeup Zara Young, Ellie Ovenstone Styling Ellie Ovenstone, Producer Francesca Keenan, Production assistant Jordanna Singh

PHOTOGRAPHY ADAM CLEMENT

IN THE AIR TONIGHT

i-D 28

“where’s the poison?”

TEXT JOANNA HOLTOM

In 2002 ‘The Legend of Leigh Bowery’ was made, celebrating the life of an iconic club kid with invincible ideas. The documentary explores the slightly tilted life on the artist and performer, famous for his club nights at London’s ‘Taboo’ in Leicester Square. Not only did the club scene that Bowery highlighted spark a new flame in London artistically, but it also created a new sense of thinking which we still need to adopt today.

We are currently drowning in a sea of right wing politics and we have plenty to say about it. Yet what do we have to show for it? The best thing about Bowery was his ability to channel his art into feeling. When watching the documentary you realize just how important Bowery was, he was an artifice and alienation in an authentically obsessed culture which we seem to be caught up in time and time again.

“ It wasn’t just dressing up and showing off and shocking people. I think it actually had to have some sort of radical element of change about it... there had to be some contra... he would ask ‘where’s the poison?’ “ CERITH WYN EVANS

The documentary reflects on how important the art of club kid culture and the sense of dressing up is. It’s about breaking away from the norms of a broken society. Boy George elaborates on how creating a look for the night helped you to escape the ”vacuous decade of the 80’s”, very similarly to today where groups of people are twisting drag and dressing it up to not only to ecpress themselves but a message in today’s slow society. So alongside adopting the Peacock theory and immersing yourself in the new-romantic way of getting ready, what Bowery did caused a ricochet effect which ultimatley inspired and motivated the club kids of today. For example personalities like @thatgirlsussi and @harrycharlesworth on Instagram, gallivanting the streets of London to promote a new sense of belonging in today’s old sense of living.

So let this documentary inspire those who delve into the social side of art and rejoice in Bowery’s unique take on life. He was the personification of fashion, art and music as one. An extraextrovert and an i-Con. i-Playlist Cogzy - Mark Archer From the late 80’s duo Altern-8, Mark Archer has his own individual sound as well as masked club kid look. With a rich history of progressive techno it is worth adding this to your weekend playlist.

Bizare Love Triangle - New Order A slightly meloncholy approach to the dance scene. Your 80’s crying on the dancefloor song you could say.

Dubelle Oh XX (JVIP) - Denis Sulta Yes We Can (Thomas Ulberg Dub Remixed by Glasgow’s own Jackmaster Mix) - Boy George and seen bringing the crowd to a musical If techno and new romantism had a nirvana recently at The Boiler Room series; baby it would be this song. The new this extended mix is a must hear. romantic club kid icon; Boy George, needed to be on this playlist.

29 i-D

i-d.vice.com/en_gb