Jocks&Nerds Issue 3, Spring 2012

Style History Culture Š

A FREE Quarterly

SPRING 2012

2012 2012

Spring Summer Summer Spring ContemporaryBritish BritishMenswear Menswear Contemporary

peterwerth.co.uk peterwerth.co.uk

STYLE HISTORY CULTURE ©

VOLUME 1 ISSUE 3 Editor-in-Chief & Creative Director Marcus Agerman Ross marcus@jocksandnerds.com Art Director Phil Buckingham phil@jocksandnerds.com Sub Editor Chris Hall Director of Photography Ross Trevail ross@jocksandnerds.com Editorial Assistant Krystof Ondrejek krys@jocksandnerds.com Design Assistant Luke Moran-Morris luke@jocksandnerds.com Financial Director Marcus Bayley accounts@jocksandnerds.com Publisher Lisa Woodman lisa@jocksandnerds.com Subscriptions subscriptions@jocksandnerds.com Stockists stockists@jocksandnerds.com Contributors Johanna Agerman Ross, Salim Ahmed Kashmirwala, Mark Anthony, Janette Beckman, Neil Bedford, Matt Brooke, Pelle Crepin, Kevin Davies, Paul Davies, Soraya Dayani, Naz Di Nicola, Harris Elliott, Emma Freemantle, Lee Vincent Grubb, Tim Hans, Mark Hooper, Matt Joy, Kusi Kubi, Takashi Kumagai, Katy Lassen, Chris May, Joe McGorty, Mark McMahon, Nickque Patterson, Mattias Pettersson, Ted Polhemus, Linus Ricard, Craig Salmon, John Spinks, Chris Sullivan, Gisela Torres, Matt Trollope, Juan Trujillo Andrades, Paul Vickery, Gavin Watson, Mark Webster, Val Williams Special thanks to Johanna Agerman Ross, Jake Allen, Kerry Baldry, Seydou Barry, Mark Baxter, Jeremy Brinton, Dave Carroll, Graham Cassie at Cassie Mercantile, Justin Deakin, Laurelle Duffy at Getty Images, Audrey Grant-Morris, Mark Hansford at The Economist Group, Julie at Centrestage Dance Studios, Georgia Kuhn at 63 Sun Studio, Alistair Layzell at Layzell PR, Reino Lehtonen-Riley, Jodi Muter, Andi Oliver at The Birdcage, Stuart Patterson at East Village, Nicolas Payne-Baader at Lock & Co., Jon & Tea Pollock, Brian Porter at Osborne Samuel Gallery, The Rain Crew, Danny Rampling, Rhythm River Trio, Gary Ross, Bridget Veal, Mark Wigan Corrections In Issue 2, the photograph on page 100 was taken by Janette Beckman not Pete Barrett as credited.

The portrait of Kevin Rowland on page 103 was taken by Kevin Davies. Our apologies for getting that wrong.

Jocks&Nerds Magazine, 80 Scotney House, Mead Place, London E9 6SW Telephone +44 (0) 7747 758877 www.jocksandnerds.com www.facebook.com/jocksandnerds Twitter: @jocksandnerds AIM: JocksAndNerds Jocks&Nerds is a free magazine printed four times a year by Four Corners (fourcornersprint.co.uk). If you would like a copy delivered to your door, email subscriptions@jocksandnerds.com Postage prices: UK £4, Europe £6, North America £8, ROW £10. Jocks&Nerds is distributed through independent retailers. If you are interested in stocking it in your store, email stockists@jocksandnerds.com Cover: Photograph Lee Vincent Grubb, Styling Mark Anthony at Balcony Jump, Cover Star Calum MacNab. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the publisher. The opinions expressed in the magazine are that of the respective contributor and are not necessarily shared by the magazine or its staff. ©2012 Jocks And Nerds Ltd.

NEWS

Philip Browne wears suit by Squier by Carlo Brandelli (1994); sweater by Fred Perry; shoes by Clark’s

Chris Francis wears suit by Junior Gaultier (1990); top

by Alexander McQueen (1999)

16

The Vault at Philip Browne

Norwich is often regarded as unprogressive and a little bit, how should we say, backward. But Philip Browne, owner of the best menswear store in East Anglia, is testament to another way of thinking in this charming market town. Like many from that region, Philip, an exceptionally enthusiastic and affable man, worked on the rigs in the North Sea initially. These men, who worked five weeks on, five weeks off, did what all red-blooded young men do on shore leave. With a good wedge burning a whole in their back pockets, before getting busy with their shenanigans, many would get themselves decked out in the latest clobber. In that respect, Philip was like all the other riggers. The difference for him was he chose to make fashion his livelihood.

His store in Norwich is regarded one of the best independents in the UK. Opening his shop in 1985, Philip has never shied away from the less commercial side of the business, and supported some of the greatest designers of the age from Walter Van Beirendonck to Massimo Osti. Over the last 25 years, Philip has amassed one of the greatest archives, probably, anywhere in the country. (It is rumoured that staff from Vivienne Westwood have visited to see some of their own old designs.) Having recently taken over a new three-floor space overlooking Norwich’s market square, Philip will soon be opening the upstairs in order to sell this exceptional collection.

Philip Browne, 1 Guildhall Hill, Norwich philipbrownemenswear.co.uk Photographs Matt Joy

Bill Savory wears shirt by Vivienne Westwood MAN, model’s own; hat by adidas, model’s own

Paul Harris wears shirt by Levi’s Red (2000)

William “Wink” Evans wears sweater by Anglomania by Vivienne Westwood (2004)

Richard Evans wears coat

by Paul Smith (1995); trousers

by Vivienne Westwood MAN (1997); T-shirt by Vivienne Westwood Gold Label (1995); trainers by Reebok (1998)

George Browne wears coat

by Vivienne Westwood MAN (2003); jacket by Levi’s, model’s own; sweater by Issey Miyake, model’s own

17

Russ Dewbury at the Jazz Rooms, Brighton

Inspired by what he saw and heard on the London raregroove scene in the mid-80s as a young clubber, when Russ Dewbury moved to Brighton in 1987, it wasn’t long before he decided the town was ripe for something similar.

Russ started his Jazz Rooms night, which eventually settled, appropriately, in the basement of the Jazz Place in Ship Street where it remained for 22 years – becoming one of the longest-established club nights there has ever been.

The success of the Jazz Rooms and its evocative mixture of funk, latin, left-field soul, acid jazz and myriad variations on the jazz style enabled Russ to spread his wings.

He took on an immense club on the seafront to start the Jazz Bops, which mixed the best DJs in the country with live bands that covered the gamut and history of the music – from then new kids on the block such as Jamiroquai and Galliano, to stalwarts such as Charles Earland and Gil Scott-Heron.

He also had a long-running radio show (now to be heard as Jazz Rooms Sunday Social on Juice FM) and worked as a remixer and album compiler, most notably on the Jazz Bizniz series for Counterpoint.

After a few years away establishing the Jazz Rooms idea in Australia, Russ returned to Brighton last year and after testing the water with a couple of nights, this year re-established the night back in its most famous home, to pick up the tradition where it left off. smugglersbrighton.com Words Mark Webster Photograph Luke Moran-Morris

One More

Chris Good was 19 and embarking on a career as a professional footballer for Brentford, but when one morning at 6am he found himself driving past the training ground after a Phil Perry gig, as well asking his manager if he could get off the coach after an away game up north because he wanted to go to the Haçienda, he began to realise a regime of early nights and peak fitness was not necessarily for him.

He soon found himself as a club DJ and promoter as well as working in the commercial film world. Then one inevitably late night/early morning, a conversation about the clubbing experience got him thinking. “It was about the last ever record played at some great nights we’d been to, which led to reminiscing about the club’s themselves.

We realised there was a whole history there that could be captured. Then we 18

thought, let’s also ask, if you had to play just one more record, what would it be?”

Thus Chris evolved the idea of One More, initially as a CD compilation, but then as a DVD-based documentary narrated by clubbing force of nature Brandon Block, with a companion book written by club veteran and dance music journalist Matt Trollope.

The period covered is the golden era of house clubs 1988-2008, “starting with Ibiza, which was pivotal and most DJs alluded to it, up til when Danny Rampling closed Turnmills”.

Good and his team have been meticulous in tracking down and talking to DJs, promoters, staff and owners who graced that period. amazon.co.uk/One-More-DVD Words Mark Webster Photograph Matt Trollope

NEWS

Olivia de Berardinis

Olivia de Berardinis is considered by most to be the greatest exponent of pin-up or cheesecake art working today. Following the tradition of artists such as Alberto Vargas, she often presents erotic images of women that are strong and playful. So popular is her work that she creates an original piece of work for each new issue of Playboy. A new collection, Malibu Cheesecake: The Pinup Art of Olivia Berardinis, has recently been published. eolivia.com Photograph Tim Hans

Passarella Death Squad Shoom T-Shirts

This year marks the 25th anniversary of Danny Rampling’s club Shoom, which first brought acid house to these shores and redefined club culture along the way. In celebration, Passarella Death Squad has made a series of high-quality cotton T-shirts. passarella.co.uk Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

Peckham Rye Tailoring

Malick Sidibé: Portraits of Mali

Malick Sidibé, Africa’s most famous social documentary photographer, opened his own studio in Bamako, Mali in 1958 shortly before the country gained independence from France. This book brings together five decades of his work, which has focused primarily on his own country and its people. rizzoliusa.com

Soho-based outfitters Peckham Rye is a family run affair dating back to the 1840s when a young Tommy McCarthy began training as a tailor. Martin Brighty, who runs Peckham Rye today, has geared up the basement of the store to a full tailoring service that will focus on the styles and blocks from their own archives.

Peckham Rye, 11 Newburgh St, London W1 peckhamrye.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

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NEWS

Coven Magazine

Finally, a new magazine for girls that doesn’t assume every woman wants to live inside an episode of Sex and the City. Juliet Elliott has been a professional snowboarder as well as a model and straddles the seemingly disparate worlds of beauty and action sports. Today, she is still fanatical about keeping active whether it’s simply racing around London or trekking off into the wilds for a few days. Realising that there were plenty of magazines focused on her interests but all aimed at blokes, she decided to start her own. Issue 1 launches on 12 April. covenmagazine.com

Talk About Cinema and Talk About Contemporary Photography Flammarion continue its “Talk About” series with two new books looking at the history and impact of cinema and photography from the 1960s. editions.flammarion.com

Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

Dice Magazine

Justin Deakin and Wolverine Leather Collaboration

Justin Deakin, the independent British shoemaker, has created a limited edition series of hand- crafted suede shoes that are completely waterproof and breathable thanks to a partnership with Wolverine, which has been developing new shoe fabrics recently – a true first, we believe. justindeakin.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

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The small A5 format of this magazine belies the wealth of well-put-together content focused on underground choppers, hot rods and skateboarding.

Often these type of magazines feel flimsy and badly designed, but the guys at DicE come with a different set of goals bringing together great photography, style and a bit of Stateside va va voom. dicemagazine.com

Levi’s Vintage Clothing Underwear

Based on archive information dating back to 1908, Levi’s Vintage Clothing has created a range of beautiful underwear ranging from longjohns to Henley vests in soft, comforting cotton.

Photograph Johanna Agerman Ross

NEWS Pride & Clarke

At one time, Pride & Clarke in south London stocked 2,000 motorbikes as well as all the accessories one needs on these beautiful old machines. John Pride and Alfred Clarke closed the business in the early 1980s after 62 years.

The brand is about to be revived by Dave Carroll who has been tirelessly collecting and researching the garments from their history.

Photograph Ross Trevail

Black Fives by Claude Johnson

The period from 1904, when the first African-American team was created in Washington DC’s segregated school system, to 1950, when the NBA first integrated black players into the league, was known as the Black Fives era. Claude Johnson has written about the organisation that helped slam dunk the black fives era into the professional game. blackfives.com

Churchill Style. The Art of Being Winston Churchill by Barry Singer V for Victory. The British bulldog spirit.

The finest Cuban cigars. Winston Churchill symbolises the serious man who still makes time for life’s little pleasures. This pictureled, hardback book explores his life and achievements through the imagery and iconography of the man. abramsbooks.com

Millian x Universal Works

Cumbria-based bag company, Millican, are so named after one Millican Dalton, the self proclaimed “Professor of Adventure”. An extraordinary man, in 1903, at the age of 36, he left his job and lived the rest of his life in Lake District, living in and off the land. The bag company that is his namesake are equally shy of current business norms of churn ‘em out, new season-new ideas. Instead, they work with reworked fabrics and develop practical design solutions for proper functional bags. homeofmillican.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

Nicolson & Walcot

Nicolson & Walcot create small runs of scarves and pocket squares, etc for the modern gentleman. Working out of a small-holding in Kennington, south London, each garment is handmade and finished using carefully sourced silks and cottons. nicholsonandwalcot.co.uk Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

22

Ransom by Adidas Originals Vast and wild with a brutal climate.

Canadians know a thing or two about the great outdoors and how to cope with the elements. It’s no surprise that Ransom, now 10 years old, and a label influenced by functional clothing, comes from Toronto. For a second season now, it has worked with adidas to create a range of footwear that exploits their knowledge and production capabilities. adidas.com ransomholdingco.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

NEWS Bird/Johnson

The 80s were regarded as the golden era of the NBA, when basketball was dominated by the LA Lakers and the Boston Celtics. And the two greatest players who developed an exciting rivalry were the Lakers’ “Magic” Johnson and Celtics’ Larry Bird. Despite their on-court battles, they became good friends in the mid1980s. It’s a story with all the right dramatic ingredients so it seems only natural that a play telling the story is now showing on Broadway in New York. magicbirdbroadway.com Photograph Janette Beckman

Kevin Daniels and Tug Coker

Corto Maltese. The Ballad of the Salt Sea by Hugo Pratt

Dr Martens Apparel

What’s so beautiful about Dr Martens is that is was created in a laboratory by a boffin with not a care in the world for anything that may even remotely pass as style or culture. It is this unadulterated purity that has kept its shoes so perfect and accessible. It has probably been popularised by more sub cultures than any other brand (skins, punks, new romantics, 80s soulies) and now they have seeped into mainstream culture. When one pictures a pair, the rest of the outfit seems to simply fall into place. So it is surprising and satisfying to learn that it has started working on its own apparel recently. drmartens.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

24

Rizzoli has recently published this tale of adventure and high jinks by one of the pioneers of the graphic novel genre, by Italian Hugo Pratt, available for the first time in English.

Originally published in the 1960s, The Ballad of the Salt Sea tells the story of Corto Maltese, a caddish ex-soldier of English and Spanish extraction. rizzoliusa.com

Lee 101 23oz Denim

In modern times everyone has wanted to get in on a piece of the denim dollar action, so saleable is the humble jean. The fact is, though, that reinventing the wheel is just that – a futile exercise. Key to a successful pair of jeans is the raw fabric.

And we mean raw. No funky washes, production line “imperfections”. What’s that about? This season Lee has created a pair of jeans using 23oz denim. That’s a lot of weight. Feeling is believing – and wearing them in is going to be a pleasure indeed. lee101.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

& Š

And Communications

NEWS Blue Jeans. The Art of the Ordinary by Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward

It’s hard to imagine a more well-travelled and ubiquitous item than the humble jean. Just how and why did it become the staple for a global population? It is exactly this question that anthropologists Daniel Miller and Sophie Woodward pose and then set out to answer in this fascinating book on the subject. ucpress.edu

Storm in a Teacup

Partners Claudia Raba and Joe Miller have set up their own vintage store in the heart of Kingsland Road in Dalston, east London.

Claudia’s career as a model means she has travelled the world and worked with some of the biggest fashion designers. Joe has worked as a stylist and set designer for clients including Agent Provocateur and A Child of the Jago. It is their combined experience and unique access that makes the selective buying for their store so interesting. That coupled with a keen eye for presentation without feeling inaccessible makes this a real treasure trove for lovers of all things vintage.

Storm in a Teacup, 366 Kingsland Road, London E8, storminateacuplondon.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

Red Wings Pecos What’s Going On 40th Anniversary Concert

Arguably the greatest soul album of all time, Marvin Gaye’s What’s Going On was an acidic assault on American politics, attacking foreign policy and social and racial issues closer to home. A year after its release, Marvin performed it live in Washington DC, intending to be accusing and pleading.

This bold statement, from a bold man, will be remembered in May this year when the Roots, John Legend and Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings will perform the album at the Kennedy Center, Washington DC. kennedy-center.org Image Courtesy of Sony Music

26

Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful styles to roll of the Red Wings production line, the 8869 Pecos have been reintroduced this season. redwingshoes.com Photograph Krystof Ondrejek

Boom! A Baby Boomer Memoir (1947-2022)

by Ted Polhemus

Ted Polhemus’s latest book questions whether youth culture can really have the same sting as those baby boomers felt in the 1960s when they thought they had brought down the establishment. Of course, 20 years later they were the establishment, yet their echoes were still heard by their children who saw only a conformist old fuddy-duddy.

Using the year of his birth as a starting point, Ted tracks the potency of the relevance of the “youth” movement and asks what it will mean in the future. lulu.com/spotlight/tedpolhemus

from producers of the Big Chill comes a wonderland of art and music...

5th – 8th JULY 2012, BIGNOR PARK, PULBOROUGH, WEST SUSSEX

Norman Jay & The Goodtimes Bus Soundsystem / Ghostpoet / Jessie Ware Fionn Regan / Fink / Crazy P / Psychemagik / Krystal Klear / The Do / tUnEyArDs Speech Debelle / Hexstatic / DJ Food / Jono McCleery / Soul Jazz / The Staves Shepdog / Reeps One / Mixmaster Morris / Pete Lawrence / Kinny / Seahawks Duffstep / Sofar Sessions & late night campfires with the Nest Collective

monsters myths and legends Rankin and Damien Hirst, Doug Fishbone’s Adventureland Golf with Jake Chapman, Zatorski and Zatorski, Pete Fowler Jem Finer, David and Peter Adjaye, Andrew logan, london Drawing life drawing classes...

The Pick of the Pleasance, Battersea Arts Centre, Gooseparty, late Night Gimp Fight, Pop up Casino, Teatro-Saurus, Kubla Khan Coffee House, stalking poets, prowling postmen...

PluS moRe

Creative salons, The Roundhouse Soul Pads for therapeutic Charley Boorman, Rankin, Gustav Choir flash mobs open massages, Reiki, Bliss Domes for Temple (The Chap), Paul Trynka rehearsals, Blink Art craft sound and light baths plus Yoga (David Bowie biographer)... salons, cocktail making- Bompas Sonic presents Tandava Days…

PluS moRe PluS moRe and Parr, Jewellery making Andrew logan…

long tables, family style dining, cooking classes in Disappearing Dining Club’s Dining Room, Hurly Burly, Bompas and Parr, Nova Arms pub with local ciders and beer, twisted pub entertainment!

PluS moRe

PluS moRe

PluS moRe

The Flicker Club and screenings...

PluS moRe

0032SMS_jocks&nerds_AD_OUT.pdf

23/3/12

12:26:49

www.novafestival.co.uk

Tickets from Ticketline: £139.00 students £100. www.ticketline.co.uk/nova-festival Small and beautiful just 5000 on site.

PEOPLE

28

Ahmad Jamal

“Play like Jamal,” Miles Davis is said to have instructed his pianist, Red Garland, in the early 1950s. Whether the story is true or not – and it has the ring of truth, for Davis could be brutally plain spoken – he certainly appreciated the Jamallike qualities of elegance and sophistication in Garland’s and later Bill Evans’s playing. “All my inspiration today comes from Ahmad Jamal,” Davis told the jazz magazine Downbeat in the mid-50s.

Given Davis’s reputation for poaching musicians from other leader’s bands, you might expect him to have made advances on Jamal. But no, says the pianist. “I had my own band, and at 21 that was enough. When I moved to New York City, Miles lived a block and a half from me, but we didn’t hang out. We had a quality relationship, not a quantity relationship.”

At 82, Jamal is the dean of American jazz pianists, still packing major concert halls in Europe and the US, and still making exalted albums. His latest, Blue Moon, on the Jazz Village label, hits the sweet spot once again, as did its immediate predecessor, A Quiet Time (2010), on Dreyfus Records. Listening to Jamal, the world seems, for a precious while, a better place.

Despite the support of Davis – and that of Columbia Records mover and shaker, producer John Hammond, and independent label pioneer Leonard Chess – Jamal’s breakthrough was hard won. Most American critics were unable to get beyond his melodicism and love of a good groove, to appreciate his depth and genius. It was not until 1958, at the relatively late age of 28, that Jamal broke beyond his base in Chicago and went national, with the live album At The Pershing: But Not For Me (Chess Records). The disc stayed in the US Top 10 album charts for a week short of two years – something else that did not endear Jamal to po-faced critics.

Today, Jamal prefers to call what he plays American classical music (ACM) rather than jazz. For a growing number of African-American musicians, “jazz” has too many derogatory connotations. “I’m not paranoid about ‘jazz’,” says Jamal. “But to get respect you have to show respect. ACM better defines what we’re doing” Whatever you call it, the music on Blue Moon – made with a quartet of piano, bass, drums and percussion – is exquisite, and rich in throbbing, ostinato-driven grooves and riffs, a trademark mixture of Jamal originals and tunes from the American Songbook. ahmadjamal.net Words Chris May Photograph Linus Ricard

29

Richard Garner

What started out as a hobby buying up and customising old biker jackets just a couple of years ago has swiftly turned into a full-time job for Richard Garner. Aware of the newfound interest in the cult of the leather jacket, Richard noticed that it was still impossibly hard to find good-quality jackets with intricate and well-made stud details, etc and so set about creating some himself. Overwhelmed by the demand, he soon started working on collecting other biker paraphernalia such as boots, gloves, etc, which are all given a unique stamp through Richie’s own handcrafted customisation.

Recently, he set up shop in the basement of MacBlack & Vine, a vintage store on Broadway market, London. macblackandvine.co.uk Photograph Joe McGorty

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PEOPLE

Ian Bruce

Like so many of today’s younger generation, Ian Bruce sees nothing unusual in having several different careers. To fans, he is one half of the Correspondents, a band that mixes various musical styles all topped off with Ian’s stage persona, which mixes a little bit of the Bright Youngs Things with a blend of Captain Sensible japery. When not working with musical partner Chucks, Ian dedicates his time to painting, drawing and video work. Under the name, RubiCANE, he recently published a book of drawings, Souvenir, celebrating various types of sexual practices ranging from Japanese tentacle erotica to scally porn. Ian asked 20 people, many who work in the porn industry, to write poems or short passages, which sit alongside the delicate drawings. Money from the book and exhibition have been kindly given to the charity Outsiders, which recognises the sexual needs of the disabled. Available to order at foxandsquirrel.com. thecorrespondents.co.uk ianbruce.net rubicane.com Photograph Kevin Davies

Chris Horsfield

Spying a teddie boy at the tender age of 13 in Southend-on-Sea was Chris Horsfield’s eureka moment. Less than a year later, he had his first drape suit with George Cox creepers snugly at the bottom.

The combination of clothes and music has remained in Chris’s life ever since. Sensing the affinity of the urgency of the punk scene with the rockabilly movement, Chris rode out those years with DA intact before heading off to art school to study fashion design.

Still a student, his work caught the attention of the Damned, and his first commercial work as a young designer was creating outfits for their Eloise tour. His career has taken him around the world many times lending his eye and expertise to various menswear labels. Since 2005, he has called New York home where he is vice president of development for Schott. schottnyc.com

Manolo

Photograph Janette Beckman

31

Josh Arcoleo

Ever since Coleman Hawkins and Lester Young established their two, contrasting, paradigms for the tenor saxophone in the 1930s – Hawkins’ rugged and brandyfuelled, Young’s elliptical and wreathed in weed – the instruments players have taken on something of the aura of the gunslingers of American frontier legend.

Britain’s Josh Arcoleo is the new fastdraw in town, the possessor of a huge talent – and an equal amount of good luck. Ten years ago, aged 13, Arcoleo 32

began taking lessons with James Brown alumnus Pee Wee Ellis, and at 16 was touring Europe with Ellis’s Still Black Still Proud band, along with ex-Fela Kuti drummer Tony Allen and Senegalese singer Cheikh Lô. Formative experiences do not get any better, and this one began through pure happenstance.

“When I was 13, my parents moved to a village in Somerset,” says Arcoleo, “and I was given a tenor for my birthday. My mum, who’s a classical flautist, was out walking one day and

heard this saxophonist practising in the churchyard. It was Pee Wee Ellis. She didn’t know who he was, but she thought he was amazing. So she asked him if he’d give me lessons. Until I moved to London five years later, I had a lesson every week.”

It turned out that Ellis was living in the village to be near Van Morrison, who lived nearby and whose band Ellis had joined as musical director.

You can hear the results of Ellis’s tutelage, and Arcoleo’s further studies

PEOPLE

James Bowthorpe

James Bowthorpe is a jock and a nerd. I’ve known him since he was a teenager and I’m still not exactly sure what he does. I know what he’s done: he’s broken the record for cycling round the world for a start (174 days). He also built a boat in a London workshop and then had to take it apart again to get it out of the front door. He’s also built a boat out of trash and sailed it up the Thames – something he’s going to do again on the Hudson, with an exclusive, specially recorded soundtrack by Mogwai. Things happen for James, because he’s that sort of a person. He looks like an explorer. He does things for charity. He makes furniture for pop stars. He’s a gent. If more men were like James Bowthorpe, the world would be a better place. jamesbowthorpe.com Words Mark Hooper Photograph Emma Freemantle

on the road and at the Royal Academy of Music, on Beginnings (Edition Records), Arcoleo’s debut album. He’s accompanied by hot-shot pianist Ivo Neame, and bassist Calum Gourlay and drummer James Maddren from Mercury Prize-nominee, pianist Kit Downes’ trio, with which Arcoleo guested on tour last year. High noon comes round again. josharcoleo.com Words Chris May Photograph Kevin Davies

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David Hill

David has been at the epicentre of the London music scene since becoming a member of the Ballistic Brothers in 1994, alongside Ashley Beedle, Rocky and Diesel. Their first album, London Soul Hooligan, combined music as diverse as roots, reggae, soul and drum’n’bass, to perfectly capture the post-club bliss of that time. Shortly after, he cofounded the Nuphonic record label, which released records by artists including Faze Action, Andrew Weatherall and David Mancuso.

More recently, David has worked with Soul Jazz Records producing albums for them, in particular The World of Arthur Russell, who until then was very much forgotten in the history of New York club music. Since 2007, with his partner Damian Mantagu, David has been developing bespoke commercial music with his company Radial. If that wasn’t enough, David runs a roots/reggae night, Rootikal, with in-demand DJ Rodigan. radial.tv Photograph John Spinks

Snowboy

Named after the character in West Side Story (which is 50 years old this year), Snowboy is a Latin percussionist who is considered by many to be the leading authority on jazz dance. With his band the Latin Section, he has released several Afro-Cuban-inspired albums.

Starting as a DJ in 1978, he has been involved in many important club nights such as the Hi Hat and Deep Funk, alongside Keb Darge. Also a fan of soul music (he is rumoured to own more than 30,000 records), he also runs his own monthly Friday night at Madame JoJo’s, the Good Foot. With his expertise, it is no surprise to learn that he is one of the musical directors of this year’s Vintage Festival. snowboy.info Shot at Madame JoJo’s, 10 Brewer St, London W1, madamejojos.com Photograph Marcus Agerman Ross

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PEOPLE

Maxim

The Prodigy album The Experience (1992) was the first crossover rave album. A simple text-only cover belied gatefold artwork of band members drawn as cyborgs. It was clear even from these illustrations that the style leader of the band was Maxim, all pineapple dreads and military coats. A creative tour de force led by main writer Liam Howlett, the live performances were enhanced by the three other members – Keith Flint, Leeroy Thornhill and Maxim.

Leaving behind rave culture, which was becoming increasingly void of meaning, the band moved into new musical territory, often tinged with a hard sound and instrumentation that harked back to pre-dance music styles with guitars and aggressive vocals, with Maxim taking more and more responsibility for the lyrics. It seems that he has taken the dark and beautiful themes that have been central to the Prodigy into a new medium.

Under the name MM, he has been creating paintings delicate in their execution and haunting in their mood. mm-gallery.com Photograph Gavin Watson

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Steven Phillipson

If ever the UK café racer scene felt the need for a poster boy, Steven would no doubt be their choice. In fact, he has modelled for Royal Enfield’s advertising campaign in the past.

A third-generation British bike enthusiast, he’s the real deal.

There is little he doesn’t know about the history, the scene and the bikes themselves. Having worked in several important stores, he has dismantled and reassembled a few old bikes in his time including his beloved 1960 Norton Dominator. The patched and battered jacket, synonymous with biker culture, is especially important for Steven, who has incorporated badges previously owned by his father and grandfather. Rarely today do individuals carry on a cultural tradition through a family in this way and become guardians of a tradition.

Photographs Luke Moran-Morris

Sew Wat

Sew Wat has been making clothes from found materials since graduating from Central St Martin’s in 2003.

His best-known piece is the Chesterfield jacket. “I kept finding all these old Chesterfield sofas discarded in the street,” he says. “It seemed crazy to let all that material go to waste. I guess the idea to use old materials spiralled from there.” It is this reimagining of the usage of materials whose first life may have been anything from a barber’s chair to bed clothing that interests Matthew. Having amassed a sizeable output, he now sells from his own stalls at Spitalfields market and Kempton Park antiques fair. sewwat.com Photograph Gisela Torres Styling Emma Freemantle Waistcoat and T-shirt by Sew Wat; shorts by Oakley; trainers by adidas

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PEOPLE

Claude Serieux

Originally from the south of France, Parisbased Claude Serieux first discovered a love of music through his Vietnamese mother and Senegalese father who listened to music as varied as disco and Gregorian chants. As a teenager, he worked in a local record shop where he discovered a mix of music from early New York hip-hop, electro and post-punk which he blended in the sets of his newfound passion for DJing. He also discovered indie record labels through the Smiths records on Rough Trade. This signalled a turning point in his life, as Claude recognised that anyone could create their own music business if determined enough. And so began a relentless agenda of self-education that took him to Los Angeles and then New York to work at various record labels. While there, he also worked at the Limelight, where Kenny Dope, Jellybean et al DJed. Returning to France in the early 1990s, Claude began a career in the fashion industry, first working for Paul Smith and then Yves Saint Laurent. All this time, he maintained a career as an in-demand DJ. In 2003, he realised his dream of working for himself when he set up his own record label, Les Disques Serieux and starting the Rockerz parties with Comet Records. Several years later, he started Artivi, a company creating bespoke music and soundscapes for video and art projects. artivi.com Photograph Janette Beckman

37

Jon Clements

Jon Clement’s first job out of university was at MTV. That was about 20 years ago in the pre-internet days when MTV was the driver behind modern video-making. Since those early days, Jon has established himself as one of the most interesting and versatile directors in the country. As a documentary filmmaker, he made a series for the Discovery Channel on the children’s ward of a Miami hospital and, last year, received a nomination at the Sundance Film Festival for his film This Is Not A Suit, directed for the designer, A. Sauvage. As well as many commercials, Jon has made music videos for the likes of Midfield General and Loaded. Today he works at the highly acclaimed London studios Spring, in north London, in charge of their fashion films. springstudios.com Photograph Mattias Pettersson

38

PEOPLE

Bobby Valentino

Bobby Valentino first came to prominence in the mid-1970s as the violin virtuoso in the Fabulous Poodles, who had the enviable accolade of being John Peel’s favourite band at that time. Through his abilities on the violin, he has worked with a variety of artists including the Style Council, Sinead O’Connor and Mad Professor.

He also wrote the string section for the song “Young at Heart” by the Bluebells, which resulted in much rankling in court over unpaid royalties. After the demise of the Poodles, he released several solo albums that showcased his abilities as a singer. (You can see him crooning in the films, Bright Young Things and the remake of Alfie.) Often to be seen with sheened black hair and a pencil moustache, Bobby was asked to ape the young Clark Gable for various commercials too. Today, he is still performing as leader of the band Los Pistoleros. bobbyvalentino.co.uk Photograph Ross Trevail

39

Lance McCormack

For lovers of old machinery, whether they be cars, motorbikes or bicycles, Lance McCormack, owner of the Romance of Rust, provides a service second to none in a quiet little backstreet in Ealing, west London.

Here, Lance has set about rebuilding and restoring classic cars since 1990. Previously, Lance learned his trade working at Rolls Royce and at famed coach builders Mulliner Park Ward where he held the grand title of final inspector of the cars rolling off the line. It is this professional background and obvious passion for the feel of the machinery itself that has endeared him to his clientele for 20 years. His abilities to mould and smooth metal would be enough to make him stand out in his industry but Lance is a perfectionist overseeing every last detail such as developing bespoke pigments for paints to complement the curves of the car’s body. romanceofrust.co.uk Photograph Ross Trevail

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PEOPLE

Mr Natty

Mr Natty cut his barbering chops in St James’s having left school at 15. Discovering a natural ability for the art of trimming and a sartorial love for styles reaching back to the 19th century, he has created a environment where he can practice exciting ideas for both dandy facial hair and delicate domes. Describing what he does as a “gypsy barber salon”, Mr Natty prefers to set up shop temporarily offering a more bespoke and considered service to a varied clientele. He can be found at Albam every other month, where tea and cakes are served to an ever-growing customer base wishing for everything from a classic haircut to grooming for beards and moustaches. His skills have taken him around the world to work in New York, Tokyo and Paris to name a few places. He recently set up in a room at the Ritz alongside Hackett during the Baftas.

Last year, he released his own range of products, Mr Natty’s Hair Preparation, that includes moustache “Twizzle” wax and beard “Elixir”. mrnatty.com Photograph Matt Brooke

41

Willy Moon

Willy Moon first came to our attention through his improbably named girlfriend, Sasha Rainbow. Both hailing from New Zealand, they arrived in London as a creative whirlwind via Berlin. Moon steps up like a proper rock’n’roller complete with thumping kick drum pizzazz and razor tailoring zing.

Moon doesn’t need a creative team behind him before he steps up to perform. Stylists, set director and any svengali-esque manipulation is most definitely shunned because he comes fully formed with all his own beloved reference points. And don’t think his act is just an act.

Seen him strolling around town in his down time? Well, we think you get the picture. willymoon.com Photographs Pelle Crepin

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PEOPLE

43

Jason King

A man is sitting on a New York stoop, aloof yet proudly wearing his leery green flares and tight-fitting, sleek leather jacket. The rhythmic disco bass and the clicking of the strutting heels automatically seep into your mind. It’s natural to assume Jason King has some music connection simply by looking at him. And you’d be correct. But this is not someone happy to be simply a straightforward musician. Right, there is his band Company Freak who have worked with the likes of Jocelyn Brown, and there are the collaborations with the likes of Ali Shaheed Muhammad from A Tribe Called Quest and Dead Prez rapper M1. But also there’s the writing.

Not just the journalistic musings for Vibe and The Village Voice. There’s the book on Michael Jackson, The Michael Jackson Treasures, and the writing for theatre. If that wasn’t enough, Jason has a day job, and one that’s none too shabby. As artistic director of the Clive Davis Institute of Recorded Music, he has been instrumental in developing undergraduate courses that take in all aspects of the music industry from producing to understanding the social impact of popular music. superlatude.com clivedavisinst.tisch.nyu.edu Photograph Janette Beckman

44

PEOPLE

Rob Sargent

Together with his cat Cassius, Rob Sargent has been quietly reconditioning old bikes and breathing new life into them at his workshop-cum-shop in north London.

As a professional photographer, his job beforehand, he found he preferred the time he spent tinkering with his bikes to the humdrum and self-flagellation that can be the reality of working as a freelance creative. Sensing a swell in the interest towards cycling in the city, coupled with the fact that none of the high-street bike stores catered for a style-focused audience, Sargent diligently set about finding old steel frames with a bit of soul and bringing them back to life with some tender love and care for a second life with new owners. Business is so good that Rob has no need to promote himself despite being tucked away on a quiet residential street far from the centre of town. sargentandco.com Photograph Ross Trevail

Terry Smith

The process of creating photographs and magazines often involves an array of people behind the scenes yet rarely does credit get given beyond the snappers and the art directors. Terry Smith is the standout “go to” man in this legion that spends most of its time in the shadows. For Terry is a colour retoucher and colour management specialist at Complete in Shoreditch, east London.

In the digital age, images goes through various processes and various mediums on a journey from photographer’s camera to print media, all of which affects the subtleties that a photographer or art director may have envisaged when creating their image.

Terry’s ruthless concern for detail and desire to deliver perfection means clients include magazines such as i-D and 125 and worldrenowned photographers Mario Testino and Juergen Teller. completeltd.com Photograph Joe McGorty

45

Dudley Sutton

You might call Dudley Sutton an actor. And who can deny that professional title to a man who has been in the theatre since the 1950s, and films since the 1960s? A man whose presence and look was born for the screen. Some of the greatest directors, including Federico Fellini and Ken Russell, have called on him to shore up their productions. He played Baron de Laubardemont in Ken Russell’s greatest film, The Devils, which can finally be seen as the director envisaged for the first time this year.

But somehow “actor” sounds far too manufactured and linear for a man who writes poetry and who you might find jamming with Mick Jones from the Clash somewhere around west London. It is this unswerving ambition to live the life he sees as fulfilling that has meant he is still going strong as he closes in on 80. At least two generations have claimed Dudley as their own rebel spirit. Firstly, in the 1960s, when he played a gay biker in the first movie to portray the rocker scene, The Leather Boys. In the late 1980s, Dudley played Tinker, the three-piece-suit-wearing sidekick to loveable rogue Lovejoy.

More recently, he has endeared himself to the YouTube generation starring as a forlorn would-be lover in the video for Clock Opera’s “Once and For All”. He is also back on the big screen this year in Outside Bet and Cockneys vs Zombies. dudleysutton.com Photograph Marcus Agerman Ross

46

PEOPLE

David Harewood

As a schoolboy growing up in Birmingham, David Harewood was looking like he might just make it big as a talented young goalkeeper, and was between the sticks when his team Washwood Heath won the All England Under-16 Championships.

However, by the time he was 18, he was destined to make it on a different kind of stage when he was excepted into RADA, and he has since become one of their most prolific and popular actors of his generation.

Throughout his post-Rada years, Harewood has managed to combine solid, regular TV work with high-profile theatre appearances. On the small screen, he became a familiar face in the likes of The Vice, Fat Friends, Robin Hood and as Nelson Mandela in the TV film Mrs Mandela. Onstage he played Martin Luther King in The Mountaintop, appeared at the National Theatre in Welcome To Thebes and went with the RSC to New York where he played a Calypso-singing Anthony alongside Vanessa Redgrave’s Cleopatra.

However, his career went up a gear in 2006 when he played the villainous warlord Captain Poison in the film Blood Diamond (his favourite role he says) and it has now hit overdrive as he is one of the stars of Homeland – President Obama’s favourite TV show – in which he plays CIA head of counterterrorism David Estes.

David will be in the States during the summer to record the second series of Homeland having recently completed one of his stints working with school kids in a theatre workshop – all of which has combined to make him an MBE, for which he received his award from the Queen in January.

Words Mark Webster Photograph Kevin Davies

47

SPOTLIGHT

Vintage Dealers Photographs Gisela Torres Words Emma Freemantle

As technology progresses too fast for us to digest, more and more we look for constants and familiarity. Nostalgia acts like an anchor for these digital environments. For many, it allows a chance to invent a personal history and a sense of belonging. What has already happened can’t change. The past has seeped into every corner of our lives now from food, interiors, even iPhone apps and, perhaps most importantly, clothes.

Yet what was once referred to as 54

secondhand (often little gems scored cheaply in charity shops) has taken on the more profit-driven monicker of vintage in the last few years. A word so marketable that it is now applied to everything from floorboards to festivals. But despite the marketeers’ attempts to destroy its validity, there are still pockets where the word still applies. Beyond the slapdash swing tickets professing some deeprooted provenance on garments barely out of the factory, for those with an eye

for history and a passion for quality, there is still a small circle of dealers whose wares are the result of tireless research, exploration, travel and desire. These are the true guardians of the term “vintage”.

No doubt, the trend forecasters and the wannabe hipsters will soon swivel on their axis and another theme will passively come into their field of vision.

But for many, these items from the past serve an important role in helping us define and understand ourselves.

Paul the Suit How long have you been a dealer?

Sixteen years. Before that, I worked in real estate. My approach to both is very similar.

I buy things that aren’t always perfect but with a little mending and repairing have life again.

The more cracks the better.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

I tend to be drawn to what I call the “urban country”.

Do clothes make you feel a certain way?

Yes. They set one’s mood.

Like with life, you don’t stop taking a chance. I’ve learnt that getting it wrong doesn’t hurt.

It’s like the lightbulb. Since the first one, it has gone through many changes. None were right or wrong. Each one was an invention.

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Pendleton Dave How long have you been a dealer?

Eight years. It started when my personal collection of jackets became too large to keep and I took a stall at Spitalfields market.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

I specialise in North American menswear from 1900 up to the early 1970s with an emphasise on workwear, early military pieces, hunting and outdoor apparel, and early sportswear.

Do clothes make you feel a certain way?

Absolutely. “Clothes maketh the man,” as they say. Clothing is an external representation of how you feel inside and the cut and design of clothing makes you hold your body in a certain way. It gives you attitude.

How has the business changed since you started?

A lot more people are discovering real vintage clothing and finding ways to express their individuality through mixing old styles. People are searching harder to find rare pieces now such as ghost towns and old mining camps in the American west. There have been some amazing finds, particularly old denim, including the oldest known pair of jeans in the world.

Who inspires you?

The Beat poets.

What’s your life philosophy?

All you need is love.

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SPOTLIGHT | Vintage Dealers

Chris Hewitt How long have you been a dealer?

Eight years. It started when I sold some old stuff to a secondhand store.

I realised there was money to be made, so I set up my own stall in Portobello Road market to supplement my income while at art school.

Where do you sell?

Camden Passage, Islington on a Saturday. It’s a great market with loads of history and colourful characters. Every couple of weeks, I do Spitalfields market on Thursday.

I feel really lucky to be able to soak up the creative environment there.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

It has to catch my eye. I have never been a “buy it in bulk” dealer. I am inspired by the social history of the past; the style and durability. For me, it has never been about trends.

How has the business changed since you started?

The stuff that used to be a dime-adozen in the 1980s just isn’t on display any more. The emergence of well-manufactured retro-inspired and reproduction clothing has led clients away from vintage originals.

I think this is a natural progression as the original stuff becomes more scarce. Recently, I started my own label, Somebody & Sons.

Do clothes make you feel a certain way?

I love Edward Green or any handmade British shoes. My dad always said to build your style from the shoes up, and it is something that has rung true with me ever since. That coupled with a new pair of 15oz Samurai jeans, a Margaret Howell shirt, a 1950s Loopwheel sweatshirt, a button-up baseball jacket and I am in nostalgia heaven.

Who inspires you?

Nigel Cabourn for his unwavering attention to detail. Margaret Howell for her aesthetic. My friend Matt Robinson of Klaxon Howl for his perseverance. Eddie Prendergast from Present for his retail genius.

David Hiatt for being a pioneer and my dad for his dress sense.

What’s your life philosophy?

Treat others as you would like to be treated yourself. somebodyandsons.com

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Paul Breuer How long have you been a dealer?

Twenty years. Mostly at Portobello Road market with a little stint at Camden market. I was in Williamsburg, New York with my band, Cottonmouth. There I discovered the rag yards and realised it was an opportunity to indulge in a passion, and make money.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

Mostly stuff from the 1930s through to the 1980s, specifically military clothing, workwear and British tailoring.

How has the business changed since you started?

The biggest impact has been the internet and the subsequent change in people’s shopping habits. I still believe that some people will always want to buy face-to-face from someone who knows his Talon zipper from his Lightning zipper. The definition of vintage clothing changes from decade to decade. What is available and what people want is in a constant flux.

Do clothes make you feel a certain way?

The right clothes open the right doors.

For better or worse, people often judge you by what you wear. You can judge a man by his choice of footwear.

Personally, I don’t understand grown men wearing plimsoles outside the gym.

What’s your life philosophy?

Trust your instincts.

Tony Bennett How long have you been a dealer?

Sixteen years. Before that, I was a set designer and props manager.

It just naturally led on from that.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

I try not to use the word “vintage”.

“Interesting old stuff” is how I prefer to describe it. I look for interesting details in a piece. I always work with shape rather than the cloth.

How has the business changed since you started?

The focus used to be very American but that has shifted towards more English and European fashions.

Utility and functional clothing has become more popular too. Modern manufactured clothes are like paper now, throwaway. Awful really.

What inspires you?

The beauty in the everyday.

What’s your life philosophy?

Self-discipline.

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SPOTLIGHT | Vintage Dealers

Roy Luckett How long have you been a dealer?

Twenty six years. I started out in Kensington market in the early 1980s.

It was a great place and time. All of today’s rarities were in abundance back then. Today, I own the Vintage Showroom with my business partner, Doug Gunn.

Do you sell specific vintage pieces?

Everything has a certain merit either in the design, patina or history.

Who inspires you?

Harold Steptoe and my wife.

What’s your life philosophy?

Positivity every day.

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STYLE

Bronco Busters Photographs Neil Bedford Styling Mark McMahon Hair Michael Green at MG’s Cuts Makeup Michael Gray using Dermalogica Photographic Assistant Rory van Millingen Styling Assistant Nicole Gray Retouching Oliver Carver Models Ade, Jeremy and Jermaine at D1 Models

Jermaine wears jacket and bandana from the Vintage Showroom; shirt by Percival

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Jeremy wears shirt by Arrow; trousers by Levi’s Made & Crafted; bandana

by Sandro; braces from the Vintage Showroom; vintage hat from Stetson, stylist’s own. Ade wears jacket by John Varvatos; jeans by Prps; waistcoat

by Nudie Jeans; shirt by Wolsey; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

Jacket, trousers and shirt by Yohji Yamamoto, boots by Harley Davidson, and hat, model’s own

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Ade wears dungarees and bandana from the Vintage Showroom; shirt by Peter Jensen; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

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Jeremy wears jacket

by Prps; jeans by Just Cavalli; top by Levi’s; boots by Maison Martin Margiela; belt by Nudie Jeans; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

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STYLE Jermaine wears jacket by Maison Martin Margiela; trousers by Trussardi 1911; vest by Forgotten Future; belt by Nudie Jeans

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Ade wears gilet from the Vintage Showroom; trousers by Lee 101; shirt and belt by Nudie Jeans; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

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Ade wears jumper from Ragtop Vintage; trousers by Ksubi; shirt by Anything; boots

by Red Wing Shoes; socks by Happy Socks. Jermaine wears jacket by Pokit; trousers by Genetic Denim; shirt by Human Made; boots by Maison Martin Margiela.

Jeremy wears jacket by Genetic Denim; jeans by Just Cavalli; T-shirt by Prps; boots

by Maison Martin Margiela; belt by Nudie Jeans; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

STYLE Jeremy wears shirt from the Vintage Showroom; jeans

by Seven Foot Cowboy; belt by Levi’s; vintage hat by Stetson, stylist’s own

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Jermaine wears dungarees and bandana from the Vintage Showroom; top by Omar Kashoura; boots by Maison Martin Margiela. Jeremy wears dungarees by Edun; shirt by Timberland; boots

by Pokit; hat by Stighlorgan; socks by Burlington

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STYLE

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Branded To Kill Photographs Marcus Agerman Ross Styling Salim Ahmed Kashmirwala Make up and hair Nina Shelley using Giorgio Armani Photographic Assistant Krystof Ondrejek Starring Andrew Koji Location The Economist Plaza, St James’s, London Sculptures Steinunn Thorarinsdóttir, courtesy of Osborne Samuel Gallery, London

Suit, shirt, tie and pocket square by Mark Powell; hat by Lock & Co; umbrella by Fox’s at Lock & Co; shoes by Church’s; cufflinks, stylist’s own

Suit and shirt by Pokit; vintage tie by Hermés, stylist’s own

Jacket and shirt by J Lindeberg; vintage tie and trousers, stylist’s own

Jacket, shirt, tie and astrakhan by Pokit

Suit and shirt by DSquared Classic; vintage tie, stylist’s own

Coat by Mackintosh; sweater by John Smedley; trousers, stylist’s own; sunglasses by JPG, stylist’s own

STYLE

Mr Thom Morell

Photographs Juan Trujillo Andrades Styling Kusi and Naz at Tzarkusi Makeup Samantha Togni using Dermalogica Hair Noriko Takayama using Bumble & Bumble Starring Mr Thom Morell Jumper by Richard James; trousers by Lanvin; 1950s Omega Automatic watch, model’s own

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Suit by E Tautz; shirt

by Lacoste; pocket square by Lanvin

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Suit by Ozwald Boateng; top by Paul Smith; shoes by Miharayasuhiro; 1950s Omega Automatic watch, model’s own

Trousers by Engineered Garments, hat and necklace, model’s own

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Jacket, trousers and shirt by Yohji Yamamoto, boots by Harley Davidson, and hat, model’s own

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Sweater by Baartmans & Siegel; trousers by Polo Ralph Lauren; shirt and socks by Richard James; shoes by Paolo Mando, stylist’s own; 1950s Omega Automatic watch, model’s own

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STYLE Jacket and shirt by Levi’s Vintage Clothing; jeans by Levi’s; waistcoat by Levi’s Made & Crafted; vintage coin purse, stylist’s own

Union City Photographs Craig Salmon Styling Soraya Dayani Photographic Assistant Christian Coleman Styling Assistant Lindsay Grosswendt Model Chris Mosier 134

Dungarees by Carhartt; waistcoat and shirt by Dickies; boots by Wolverine

Jacket by Carhartt; trousers by Carhartt Heritage; windbreaker

by Levi’s Made & Crafted; shirt by Pendleton; boots by Red Wing Shoes

Jacket by Levi’s Vintage Clothing; jeans by Levi’s; boots by Wolverine; bag

by J. Panther & Co

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Trousers by Levi’s Made & Crafted; boots by Caterpillar; socks by Uniqlo

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Jacket by Pendleton; overalls

by Dickies; shirt and top by Levi’s Made & Crafted; boots

by Caterpillar

PROFILE

Raleigh Denim Photographs Craig Salmon Styling Soraya Dayani Words Richard Nelson Styling Assistant Lindsay Grosswendt Cowboy Jason Geering

The visual history of American denim is forever deep within the American west but the truth is that its industrial history has always been on the other side of the continent, in cotton country – the south. Which is exactly where you’ll find Raleigh (pronounced “Raw-lee”) in North Carolina. As the cotton farms were – and still are – there it was only natural the mills, with their denim-making machinery, sprung up around them.

Sarah and Victor Lytvinenko, two Carolina natives, and founders of Raleigh Denim, have created jeans that can be fully produced from raw denim to final garment, in their own warehouse in downtown Raleigh. Started as a personal challenge a few years back, Victor attempted to make his own jeans when his prized pair bought in Europe were falling apart. By their own admission, the first results were appalling, but they had caught the bug. Selling their bicycles and video camera gave them the money

they needed to buy the right machinery to knock up pair after pair in their home as they strived tirelessly to understand and perfect the craftsmanship needed to create a completed pair of jeans. When they hit a brick wall and their skills let them down, they concluded that they could track down the skilled workers from the denim industry that has existed in North Carolina for over a century.

After a year or so of learning, tweaking and getting their mates to road test their prototypes, they finally got a big break – an order from Barneys New York, which requested more than 100 pairs. Still a kitchen-table outfit (quite literally), Victor and Sarah, with the help of friends and family, handmade each pair from start to finish, taking them six months to complete. With a quality and finish hard to find in the States at that time, unsurprisingly, Barneys found itself having to reorder soon after, and with other clients coming to them it

wasn’t long before they decamped to a warehouse space in downtown Raleigh.

Here, they are able to handle all the production with their team from start to finish as well as present themselves to the public with a shopfront. Customers are more than welcome to pop in and see the production process first hand and see the machinery and skills employed.

Since then, Raleigh have created their own fabrics, which are developed and produced down the road at one of America’s oldest cotton mills, White Oak Cone Mills. It is this focus on quality throughout the process that has helped Raleigh Denim develop to the point they have today in a relatively short time. They are keen to let the cloth do the talking – their jeans are a paredback affair with next to no branding, which suits the slim lines and clean finishing they employ in their designs. raleighworkshop.com

Jeans and handkerchief by Raleigh Denim; shirt by Nudie Jeans; hat from What Goes Around Comes Around

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Jeans by Raleigh Denim; T-shirt

by Nudie Jeans; belt from What Goes Around Comes Around

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PROFILE | Raleigh Denim Jeans, hat and bandana by Raleigh Denim; jacket from What Goes Around Comes Around

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Guy Gormley (Enchante), 26, music producer, artist and founder of Top Nice and Brickhouse. Frank bag.

Describe your style...

No. What’s your relationship with Ally Capellino?

I model her bags.

Photographer, Alex Sturrock is working on a book that I will be in.

Who’s your favourite band?

I’m listening to Jook 10, Aramac and Paul B. Davis at the moment.

Jeans and apron by Raleigh Denim: jacket, shirt and boots by What Goes Around Comes Around

PROFILE | Raleigh Denim

Jeans and bandana by Raleigh Denim; vintage Carhartt jacket, hat and boots from What Goes Around Goes Around; top by J Crew

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PROFILE | Raleigh Denim

Jeans by Raleigh Denim; coat and shirt by Nudie Jeans; hat and boots from What Goes Around Comes Around

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Directory adidas www.adidas.com Alpine Stars www.alpinestars.com Anything www.anewyorkthing.com Arrow www.arrowlife.com Baartmans & Siegel www.baartmansandsiegel.com Ben Sherman www.bensherman.com Beyond Retro www.beyondretro.com Burlington www.burlingtonsocks.com C.E www.cavempt.com Carhartt www.carhartt.com Carolina www.carolinashoe.com Caterpillar www.catfootwear.com Chevignon www.chevignon.com Church’s www.church-footwear.com Dickies www.dickiesworkwear.com Dr Martens www.drmartens.com DSquared Classic www.dsquared2.com E. Tautz www.etautz.com Eastman Leather www.eastmanleather.com Edun www.edun.com Etro www.etro.com Fifi Chachnil www.fifichachnil.com Forgotten Future www.forgottenfuture.co.uk Fred Perry www.fredperry.com G-Star www.g-star.com Genetic Denim www.geneticdenim.com Happy Socks www.happysocks.com Hermes www.hermes.com Hugo Boss www.hugoboss.com Human Made www.humanmade.jp J. Crew www.jcrew.com J. Lindeberg www. jlindeberg.com Jean-Paul Gaultier www.jeanpaulgaultier.com John Smedley www.johnsmedley.com John Varvatos www.johnvarvatos.com JPG www.jeanpaulgaultier.com Just Cavalli www.robertocavalli.com Justin Deakin www.justindeakin.com Kempton Park Market www.kempton.co.uk Kim West www.kimwest.co.uk Ksubi www.ksubi.com La Rocka! www.larocka79.com Lacoste www.lacoste.com Lanvin www.lanvin.com Lee 101 www.lee101.com Lee www.lee.com Levi’s Vintage Clothing www.levisvintageclothing.com Levi’s www.eu.levi.com Lewis Leathers www.lewisleathers.com Lock & Co. www.lockhatters.co.uk Mackintosh www.mackintosh-uk.com Maison Martin Margiela www.maisonmartinmargiela.com Mark Powell www.markpowellartist.com Miharayasuhiro www.miharayasuhiro.jp

Millican x Universal Works www.homeofmillican.com Moscot www.moscot.com Mr. Bathing Ape www.bape.com Nicolson & Walcot www.nicholsonandwalcot.co.uk North Sea Clothing www.northseaclothing.co.uk Nudie Jeans www.nudiejeans.com Oakley www.oakley.com Omar Kashoura www.omarkashoura.com Omega www.omegawatches.com Ozwald Boateng www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk Paul Smith www.paulsmith.co.uk Peckham Rye www.peckhamrye.com Peggs & Son www.peggsandson.com Pendleton www.pendleton-usa.com Percival www.percivalclo.com Peter Werth www.peterwerth.co.uk Pokit www.pokit.co.uk Polo Ralph Lauren www.ralphlauren.co.uk Pretty Green www.prettygreen.com Pride & Clarke www.prideandclarkeclothing.com Prps www.prpsgoods.com Ragtop Vintage www.ragtopvintage.wordpress.com Raleigh Denim www.raleighworkshop.com Ransom by adidas Originals www.ransomholdingco.com Red Wing Shoes www.redwingshoes.com Regent Tailoring www.regenttailoring.co.uk Richard James www.richardjames.co.uk Rupert Sanderson www.rupertsanderson.com Sandro www.sandro-paris.com SEH Kelly www.sehkelly.com Seven Foot Cowboy www.pokit.co.uk Sew Wat www.sewwat.com Simon Carter www.simoncarter.net Stan Leather www.stanleather.com Stetson www.stetson.com Stighlorgan www.stighlorgan.com Storm in a Teacup www.storminateacuplondon.com Stuart’s www.stuartslondon.com T.M. Lewin www.tmlewin.co.uk Terry de Havilland www.tdhcouture.com The Great Frog www.thegreatfroglondon.com The Vintage Showroom www.thevintageshowroom.com Timberland www.timberland.com TWOnFro www.twonfro.com Tootal www.tootalvintage.com Topman www.topman.com Trussardi www.trussardi.com Victor & Rolf www.viktor-rolf.com What Goes Around Comes Around www. whatgoesaroundnyc.com What Katy Did www.whatkatiedid.com Wolsey www.wolsey.com Wolverine www.wolverine.com Wrangler www.wrangler.com

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the L.O.C.K. BREAD & BUTTER BERLIN jul y 0 4–06th , 2012 w w w. b r e a d a n d bu t t e r. c o m / lo ck