24ten by Jodie Tarleton

Jodie Tarleton FCP Fash3002 Stage 2 Implementation 24Ten - The new wave of luxury retailing Word count: 5446

Intro

New Wave

10 The Way The Shopper Shops

38 Who Are They?

The Issue

Visual De-code

Consumer Trends

Big Idea

InStore

Development

Comms Strategy

Social

Inspiration

Is it still the case that the DNA of luxury is made up of the symbolic desire to belong to a superior class? Have we as a society moved on from the self-selected elite who are insensitive to price and choose to spend time and money on items that are plainly opulence as opposed to necessity? Not entirely. Overall, worldwide luxury goods spending grew by 2% to ÂŁ185 billion in 2013 [Bishop, 2013], with 18-29 year olds said to be the fastest growing luxury consumer segment [Greenhill,2012]. The distant ideal that luxury must display a contemporary image due to its timeless aesthetic simply no longer suits todays consumer, as it is no longer the norm to dress in one brand from head to toe as it was during the middle of the twentieth century. As time is moving forward so are the consumer wants and needs in relation to luxury shopping and retail spaces. The democratisation of luxury fashion is a term that has been reverberated from all ends of the fashion spectrum ever since Anna Wintour teamed casual wear with haute couture on the cover of Vogue in 1988 [See fig 1]. This was brought to life again in 2004 when Swedish retailer Hennes & Mauritz teamed up with Karl Lagerfeld to bring customers the first wave of designer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; high street collaborations. The rise of the C class [WGSN, 2013] is a sign that mass amounts of individuals are acquiring vast amounts of wealth, to spend on the emergence of a sea of new luxury brands. Consumers have more choice than ever before. Choices that are being offered at every level of the market, through multiple digital outlets. So the desire to be more experimental and individualistic is almost innate to the 21st century shopper. This report will look further into the convergence culture we currently live in which can be seen both on the high street and also in editorials [See Fig2], It will then go on to propose a framework for a new luxury retail concept to sit firmly on British high streets that will suit the needs of this continuing phenomenon. It will also look closely at the in store experience of luxury retailers to evaluate whether changes could be made in order to create a more accessible and tailored environment to the rising number of customers acquiring wealth. Eliminating the framework of the once typical luxury consumer who is almost becoming obsolete. The idea of a traditional luxury purchaser now dated. High street/ mid market stores have adopted a relaxed, approachable aesthetic, stores such as American Apparel, Cheap Monday, Monki & Urban Outfitters. However when that consumer would want to purchase a luxury item in years to come for example an Alexander Wang sweatshirt, they are then transferred into a completely opposing environment of polished stores, with visible high security and a much more business like linear way of operation. We are now at a time when consumers are mixing high and low, evidently this could be seen as just a trend, however consumers are now more cost savvy mixing designer with high street and vice versa. So why not provide a store that does exactly this? [Figure 1]

Model wears: Topshop Vest, Louis Vuitton Trousers, Vintage Adidas Trainers & Cartier bangles. Model wears: Jacket & Shirt Dior Homme. Vest Beyond Retro. Shorts Y3.

Model wears: Top & Skirt by Givenchy. Jeans Stone Island. Shoes Nike. Model wears: Nike sweatshirt & Celine trousers

[Figure 2

Model wears: Lanvin dress with Vans.

The New Wave / ‘Luxury is now for the masses and classes, diversifying into lifestyle products and multiple price points is the key to the future’ [Greene, 2013] Early insight into the concept of luxury was provided by Thorsten Veblen who linked consumption to social status. He suggested that people with wealth use it to consume goods and services which are highly conspicuous in order to reinforce or enhance their social status [Walley,K]. This is also known as the “Theory Of Conspicuous Consumption”. Today however the situation has changed as luxury is no longer confined to the upper class. The market has changed and now provides two main forms of luxury to consumers, these being absolute and accessible luxury. Absolute refers to the original luxury market that targets the rich [Chevalier & Lu, 2010] and performs the basic function of reinforcing social stratification. Whilst accessible luxury refers to relative luxury that is desired by the middle class.

‘All of a sudden the man on the street, the woman on the street can participate in fashion week, and I think this accessibility of fashion is why it is now such a huge part of popular culture’ – [Ahmed in Yueh,2014]

Hybrid ASKSEL NYC [Figure 3]

WASBAR BELGIUM Lounge Like

Ninety percent of luxury purchases still happen in store [Sollar,2014], showing the paramount importance that the retail outlet plays within the buying journey of luxury goods. However retail analysts say that there are many affluent people who are intimidated or annoyed by shopping at luxury retail stores [Mulpuri in Soller, 2014], due to their unapproachable nature. The trend hunter identifies four types of retail spaces [See figure 3] that are emerging due to the popularity of online, resulting in companies and brands being more inventive with the few physical spaces that they employ. Spaces are being created that infuse brand personality through hybrid services, and carefully thought out décor. Ultimately what this does is build a culture around the brand that extends far beyond ambience.

With the ideal of accessibility, comes along the issue of the democratisation of luxury fashion. Imran Ahmed of the Business Of Fashion speaks of changes over the past decade whereby we have seen the fashion industry becoming a bigger part of popular culture [Yueh,2014]. The masses have gained access to the elites lifestyle, albeit in small ways. In an interview with Elle magazine [2014] Alexander Wang spoke defiantly about the unquestionable talents of the Kenzo duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. He was particularly speaking of their retail venture Opening Ceremony and how this store concept ‘has changed the way stores are buying and doing business all over the world’.

‘They believe that the same person who is buying a $2,500 dress will also buy a $50 T-shirt and a $3 bumper sticker, even if that person never shopped like that before’- [Wang,2014]

Gallery garment

Lifestyle

LN-CC LONDON

VOO BERLIN

The Way The Shopper Shops / Looking at the 4 previously mentioned retail types [See fig 3], it must be recognised that the western ideals differ hugely to those of the east or even other parts of the world. Western countries have a very individualist mind set, and individualist consumers are motivated by their own preferences, needs and rights [Hofstede in Shukla, 2012]. Western individualist cultures tend to conceptualise the self, which is also positively correlated with emphasis on self-gratification, where consumers focus on personal achievement, physical attractiveness and material possessions [Shukla, 2012]. Belk’s theory of the extended self supports this by stating that individuals define themselves in part by what they own, and this seems to be the case here in the UK. This is in direct contrast to Eastern collectivist cultures who define the self more by relationships and feelings of inclusiveness. This links to the distinctive difference between luxury stores in eastern European countries such as Germany with Berlin housing an array of inclusive, laid back spaces such as ‘Apartment’ & ‘The Happy Shop’ [See fig 4] stocking product from designers ranging from Rick Owens and Yamamoto to New Balance and Puma. [See appendix 0.1].

With rising individual income, consumers desire products for their symbolic aspects as opposed to utilitarian motives [Shukla, 2012]. This type of hedonic consumption is popular with consumers in the UK where there is a need for heightened emotional experience and satisfaction from products and brands. As well as this it is key for retailers to stock products that are rare and unique, even if only In small quantities. This is due to individualists having a need to differentiate themselves from others in situations where they perceive too much similarity in their social environments - also known as the theory of uniqueness [Fromkin in Stokburger-Sauer and Teichmann, 2013].

Note: The top 3 sections to Maslows Theory links to the main reasonings of why people purchase into luxury

Hie rar ch y

‘New consumers adopt a more individual, involved, independent and informed approach to consumption. While buying habits of old consumers were often dominated by product scarcities, new consumers suffer scarcities of time and attention. As a result they are often willing to pay premium prices in order to save both’ – [Lewis, 2001]

Ma sl 10

Social Belonging

s ed

‘In the UK it’s more of a place thing for example Bond Street and at the point of purchase. Brands still want a highly visible retail space, whereas consumers are moving toward a more discreet approach to wearing the products’ [Bainbridge, 2013]

Self Esteem

ow ’s

Self Actualisation

Safety, Shelter, Protection, Security, Clothing for protection Physiological - Basic life needs. Water,Food,Sleep

[Figure 4]

Visual Identity of Berlin Lux stores /

OUT WITH THE OLD 12

‘A new survey of credit card spending indicates that members of the generation known as millenials are increasing their spending on ‘luxury’ items, faster than any other age cohort’ [Sauers, 2012]

In his book The Soul of the new consumer, David Lewis speaks of the differences between the old and the new consumer, referring to the new consumer group as the millennial group. Millenials have become the largest generation with the greatest combined purchasing power in history [Garst, 2013]. Furthermore, 18-29 year olds are the fastest growing luxury consumer segment, who in 2011 spent 31% more on luxury purchases than they did the year before [Greenhill,2012]. However with millennial spending on luxury, there needs to be price justification, they scrutinize brands and offer allegiance only to those whose premium price points are justified. This demographic have not spent a lifetime accumulating and protecting their wealth, meaning that they are still in discovery mode. In comparison to the baby boomers who viewed luxury as a material reward proving that they had worked hard and earned their lifestyle, with millenials it is not so much a symbol of achievement but more of a clarification that ‘I can’ achieve [Greenhill,2012]. Considering that by 2025, this demographic will account for 75% of the global workplace, it is clear that a lot of business is to be consumed by this age group particularly at a time when fashion has such a strong presence in popular culture that is continuing to grow.

‘It is by no means an uncommon occurrence in an inclement climate for people to go ill clad in order to appear well dressed’ [Gill, 2011] The main point of difference to the ideal of the new consumer is that these people are looking for the story behind the brand, as people naturally think in narratives or stories as opposed to arguments and paradigms [Megehee, 2012]. Rather than buying into a brand for buying sake, there is a need for authenticity, and no such thing as a guaranteed sale [Bainbridge, 2013]. Research has also recognised the fact that gender roles are becoming increasingly blurred, women possess more male traits and it is more accepted for men to adopt female traits. This is also the case in retail environments, with LSN Global referring to this as ‘No Gen Retail’, the blur of genders seen in retail spaces were male concrete design is juxtaposed with feminine product [Raymond, 2013].

‘The biggest tip for millennial business is not to assume that because you had their parents & grandparents, millenials want to be sold to’ [Olshan in Mintel 2013]

The Issue Current Perceptions

s of Luxury retailers/

Experimental Product

Youth Appeal

[Figure 5]

Boomers Appeal

16 Practical Product

A survey was posted onto social networking websites Facebook and Twitter specifically asking for males and females who shop in the likes of Selfridges, Flannels & Reiss to take part in the survey. The response level included 36 Females and 16 Males. The main purpose of this initial survey was to get peoples true opinions on the feelings that they have towards luxury retailers in terms of the in store design, and the way that they felt when entering luxury retailers. In addition it was a way to establish how people stock their

wardrobes and how much money is seen as normal to spend in a typical shopping trip. Interestingly the results indicated that the most common way people would describe the interiors of luxury retailers is minimal and understated, and that the most common feeling that participants felt when walking into luxury stores was intimidation. This is a sign further indicating that the current set up of luxury retailers is perhaps out-dated and needs to be revived to fit the modern day shopper.

Q. My wardrobe consists of Male

Mix of premium high street & Designer Mix of mid high street & Premium

Female

High street only Vintage & High street

18-21 22-25

Q. Describe this image in 3 words [Flannels Store] TOP 3 RESPONSES

26-29 30-33

Minimal Simple Clean

Q. Which of the following best describes you? I receives designer goods on special occasions

I shop as I please, It doesn’t matter where the item is from I like to treat myself when I have the money on designer Items I wouldn’t spend my money on Designer items

[See Appendix 0.2]

TOP 3 RESPONSES

Q. In one shopping trip it wouldn’t phase me to spend... TOP RESPONSE

I’d rather spend more on 1 designer item than several high street prices

Q. I find the overall ambience of luxury stores...

£101-£150

Intimidating Professional Simple

PRIMARY RESEARCH 17

PRIMARY RESEARCH Where?

Flannels Store Nottingham

What?

Interaction Observation

When?

Saturday 12th April [Afternoon]

X20

X15

Product Interaction

Time Spent In Store Average

Items tried on

10 Mins

[See Appendix 0.3

15-20 Mins

In continuation from the survey, it was important to watch first hand how customers actually acted and behaved in luxury retailers, and this was done by a covert interaction observation that was then carried out in Ted Baker to act as a comparison. Customers were watched on the busiest day of the week, how many times they actually touched and felt a product, how much time they spent browsing in store and how much this then ended in the main goal of trying the product on in the fitting rooms.

The objective here was to try and observe why customers feel intimidated in store as indicated from the initial survey. The result was a clear lack of interaction with product and fewer attempts to take garments into the fitting rooms in Flannels. The customers seemed to take a more leisurely approach to walking around Ted Baker, actually lifting hangers off the rail and bringing the items close to their bodies to see how they may look, as opposed to Flannels were customers only really seemed to lightly touch the fabric, appearing to not want to fully engage with the product. This research method was very insightful and it was clear through peoples body language and product interaction that some customers did not feel as relaxd as they seemed in Ted Baker. Further highlighting that this is an issue that needs to be addressed.

Where?

Ted Baker Store Nottingham

What?

Interaction Observation

When?

Saturday 19th April [Afternoon]

X20 Product Interaction

Product Interaction

Time Spent In Store Average

20 Mins

15 Mins

Items tried on

11 19

X15

[Figure 6]

Visual de-code / It is interesting to look at luxury stores in terms of their in-store aesthetic and environment. Here three luxury retailers have been chosen to take a look at closely to see where they gain their inspirations from for in store displays and visual merchandising. Two of the retailers chosen take a classic approach to luxury in store design with the third example showing how a retailer has completely diversified from standard ways of designer retailing, but how this diversification gives them much more of an edge over the rest.

Firstly the womenswear floor in Selfridges has two sections, one being the contemporary section and the other being the “designer lab”. Both parts having very different visual codes. The designer lab is heavily furnished with seating areas that date back to the style of the 1960’s era. The international style of seating refers to a very specific type of modernism, whilst also alluding to the aesthetic resulting from a functionalist approach to design [Fiell, 2005]. In addition to this, the zig zag patterned rug links to popular print design from the 1970’s. Even though the furniture creates a very home like ambience and feel, the fact that they are not in use by any customers makes them seem slightly unnecessary. In contrast to this, the contemporary section uses very bright, bold colours, with wooden flooring as opposed to carpet. This creates a much more youthful feel. Brands that play on the medium of colour, like Selfridges are Kenzo & Holly Fulton. Both brands exude playfulness through their incorporation of vivid colour in both their designs and advertising campaigns. Throughout the Contemporary section of Selfridges there is consistent use of bold font. This is a typography style that has been used since the 1960’s, that relates to futurism. Selfridges designer lab sticks to the handbook of what you would expect to see in a luxury retail situation through the choice of furniture and carpets however the Contemporary department is clearly targeting a younger market, through their constant use of neon signage and much more modern furnishings. [Figure 7]

[Figure 8]

Harvey Nichols has a very sparse, open plan, with the use of chrome furnishings. Looking back at store designs, this type of design is described as a modification of international style, where by psychedelic and Op art influences were introduced along with glass and chrome materials. As for the strong use of neon angular shapes, this can be linked to the work of artist James Turell. He is an American artist primarily concerned with light and space. His style of work has been re-interpreted to create dynamic visual merchandising when the customer walks through the store, browsing at each designer concession, in a walkway format. In terms of designer aesthetic, Harvey Nichols resonates with the design codes from designers such as Chloe, and Alice & Olivia. This is due to fresh, contemporary image that they portray of the modern woman.

[Figure 9]

Finally Dover Street Market combines a multi-gender dynamic street market feel with a quirky, design-led department store surrounding. The store has a minimalist functional interior, with steel beams and brick walls. The labels sold here are high end luxury, which is in contrast to the construction site in which the brands are displayed. In terms of store design codes, Dover Street Market very much resonates with the conceptual designs of designers such as Rei Kawakubu from Comme De Garรงon and Gareth Pugh. The in-store interiors are in reference to British Pop artist Richard Hamilton, through the strong use of black and red graphics which is commonly seen throughout his work. The shed like huts that are cemented throughout the store both for fitting rooms and point of sale are very much similar to the work of installation artist Richard Wilson. Wilson draws inspiration from the worlds of engineering and construction, transforming architectural space and objects on a grand scale. This is an interesting take on a luxury retailer and feels much more than just your average store where a cash for product transactions takes place.

Dieter Rams 10

Recent marketing efforts from retailers suggest that brands such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Selfridges are looking to engage with a more youthful audience. This is evident through Harrods affiliation with Vogue for the 2014 Vogue festival, along with the their ‘Made to measure’ suit weekend. Both marketing event initiatives act as a way to entice a younger clientele to the store, with the first attracting a fashion savvy consumer and interacting with them on brand level. With the ‘Made to measure’ suit weekend located in Knightsbridge assembling some of the UK and Italy’s suit-cutters - including Giorgio Armani, Brioni, Canali, Richard James & Prada one-on-one appointments in the men’s department, acting as a way to draw in young, affluent males into their retailer as opposed to one of their premium competitors. Harvey Nichols also launched beauty vending machines into its Knightsbridge restaurant so that customers could buy beauty products out of hours [Mintel,2013]. This is a further way to engage with a younger consumer on a service based level as stereotypically younger people are active during out of hours times. In terms of service, Selfridges is constantly evolving their services to create different ways to satisy their customers needs, and ultimately provide them with as much convenience as possible. 2014 will see the launch of the drive through click and collect service at their London flagship store. Along with this there are plans of a home delivery offer with a text service whereby couriers will be able to text customers to arrange a delivery time, and shoppers will be able to respond [Thomson, 2013]. Selfridges multichannel director Simon Forster believes that what is important for retailers is ‘to remain flexible in response to changes in shopping habits and technology’ [Retail week, 2013]. However it isn’t just retailers that are attempting to connect with a younger audience, luxury brands have shown 1960’s Helvetica Style font evidence of this too, with the re-brand from YSL to the Alexander Wang takeover at Balenciaga, luxury brands are realising that they must also evolve and adapt in order to stay relevant [See appendix 0.4]. 28

0 design principles

Original 1966 Saint Laurent store

Who are Saint Laurent referencing with their re-brand?

[Figure 10]

Max Bill interior structure

Future Co

[Figure 11] 30

onsumer Trends / As more buying power is trickling down through the social classes, a trading up and down culture has emerged, with it now being the norm to mix high end and low end brands together. This type of reconnaissance shopping makes it completely normal to pair an Alexander Wang sweatshirt with a Weekday pair of joggers. In the 2014 March issue of Dazed and Confused Carol Lim and Humberto Leon speak of the bigger dialogue happening currently within fashion and retail.

Looking at wider consumer macro trends for SS15 that relate to luxury purchasing, there are two trends that stand out that are very fitting in relation to millennial purchasing of goods. The first trend is under the branch of consumer priorities, and within those priorities falls ‘living the impossible’ [WGSN,2014]. Consumers are very used to seeing the impossible come true. Artists and scientists experiments are becoming more extravagant, but they are actually producing results. Brands and media are tapping into consumers increasing quests for the unobtainable, an example of this is the Mars One Project. This links to luxury purchasing as buying luxury items is no longer out of the question to people, very few things are unobtainable, even if it requires sacrifices in other areas of consumers lives. The second macro trend is the C class revolution [WGSN,2014], which refers to the newly acquired wealth and better standard of living that is occurring world wide. By 2020 1 billion people will have entered the middle class and with this brings a challenge to the definition of what it means to be a part of societies largest consumer group.

‘And I think people are just open to having fun with their own fashion, creating something individual that they love & it doesn’t matter what the label says’ [Lim, 2014]

Interviews with independent boutiques & high street retailers

In Store Interviews /

[See Appendix 0.5]

BATH

More male or Female customers?

MANCHESTER

All Ages

Casual wear Favoured

Rely on Repeat custom Strong Chinese Customer

Newly Introduced

What sells?

Core Consumer

TURNBRIDGE WELLS

Easily navigable rails

To gain further understanding of the millennial age group purchasing habits in terms of luxury, interviews were carried out via telephone and in-store with members of staff from a variety of luxury retailers. To make sure the sample was non-biased a variety of retailers were contacted from around the country ranging from Selfridges to independent designer boutiques. The main focus was to find out whether or not there is a strong young clientele that are regular purchasers of designer goods in order to justify the proposition of a new luxury retailer that targets a

MANCHESTER

younger demographic. As well as this it was important to find out what sells to this demographic, in particular what products and brands. It was also important to find out what product areas this demographic are not so interested in. To clarify this on a retail and selling level, personal shoppers from Selfridges were interviewed as they have day-to-day dealings with clients that are regularly purchasing designer goods. Their responses confirmed the idea that there is a big market for designer wear for the millenial who is constantly on the lookout for the latest designers.

BATH

NOTTINGHAM

All Ages Casual wear Favoured

1 on 1 Styling

Casual wear Favoured

Young mums

Strong Chinese Customer

Subculture campaign

1 on 1 Service & Alterations 33

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;? Items

[Figure 12]

Jodie Subachus [Personal Shopper selfridges] [See Appendix 0.6

Key takeaways: Jodie provides some great insight into the clear demand that there is from the younger demographic. Interestingly, similar to the conversations with boutiques and high street luxury retailers it is the casual day wear that sells the most, along with the wearable basics from brands such as Isabel Marant and ACNE. If people are shopping for causal designer items on a weekly basis, the feelings of intimidation in store should be non existent for such a regular occurrence.

Do you feel that there is a strong clientele group of the ages of 20-35 who are regularly purchasing designer goods (are they purchasing just as much as the older customer or more/less)? Clients in this age bracket are very popular with Personal Shopping, they are fashion lovers who buy into ‘’of the moment’’ designers such as Isabel Marant, Jbrand, Frame and Celine. They purchase just as much, if not more than the older client due to keeping on trend. The older client will buy classic pieces at a slower rate. What sells? Which designer brands are at the top of this customers radar, any products in particular? Isabel Marant, Frame jeans, Celine & YSL handbags, Givenchy, VB Have you noticed any changes in purchasing behaviour from younger consumers over the past 3-5 years? (Is there anything they are wanting more of/interested in more/less)? Statement bags dipped for a while as people were investing in Chanel and Hermes, in the last year the ‘IT’ bag has made a return from the like of Celine, Valentino and YSL. Denim is a huge business as well as footwear from Acne, Isabel Marant and Valentino. Are there any staple items that the age group of 20-35 mostly buy into for example accessories/ bags/ dresses/ sweatshirts etc? Daytime pieces such as sweat shirts, jogging bottoms, sneakers and daytime bags. Are there any product areas that this age range are not so interested in from your point of view being a personal shopper? For example are they buying into more designer casual wear or more dressy/statement pieces? Statement pieces will always be popular due to events, they are very keen to make an impression and wear the latest designer no matter what the price point. Casual wear is a more regular purchase, usually every week. On average what percentage of your personal shopping clientele are of the ages 20-35? Mine personally I would say 40% are this age bracket although some girls in their 40s are more like girls in their 30s, you wouldn’t notice the difference to look at them! not many clients are below 26, these are usually Chinese students who don’t tend to use personal shopping.

Ideal store equation =

[From responses from 40 consumers. 20 male & 20 female]

60% Voo Berlin + 15% Flannels + 5% Urban Outfitters + 20% Storm Copenhagen

PRIMARY RESEARCH 36

Where?

NTU & Nottingham City Centre

What?

Showing males and females aged between 19-35 6 images of different store environments with the brands removed and asking which store they are most drawn to.

Why?

To gage which type of in store environment consumers are most drawn to, and also to gage which are the least favoured as an indication to steer away from this look.

PRIMARY RESEARCH 37

Who are they? / Sample: Firstly consumers were found through social network sites by looking at who had commented on luxury products on Harvey Nichols instagram/Flannels Instagram etc. Then that consumers instagram feed was analysed in terms of their lifestyle to get a visual representation of their day to day happenings. The 6 consumers interviewed for the consumer profiles were found from when trips to London,Manchester and Liverpool were taken to analyse the luxury stores. The opportunity was taken to speak with consumers and explain about this project and if they would mind taking part in consumer research for profile purposes.

The Lifestyle/

This shows visual diaries of luxury consumers through their social media instagram accounts. It shows examples of what sorts of things they will do in their leisure time, as well as what food and drink they have been consuming lately. The consumers also post images of new purchases that they may want to show off, or ask their followers of their opinion on certain products. This shows the important role that social media, especially instagram plays in the consumer decision journey. [Figure 13] 40

A day in our life

Through investigation and engagement with customers this report has outlined three classifications of luxury consumer, each classification is divided by what luxury means to the individual. The first is the consumer who buys into luxury for its functional purposes, this consumer will buy luxury products for their superior functionality and quality. They will tend to buy into a wide range of luxury products as well as fashion for example luxurious holidays and artwork. In terms of decision making this consumer is much more logical and less impulsive that the next other two classifications

The second classification is the customer who will use luxury goods as a personal status symbol, they do not wish to appear lavish and are rather subtle in their display. This type of consumer will purchase on trend pieces constantly on the lookout for new up and coming designers. The third consumer group is the consumer that purchases into luxury goods for indulgence, this consumer is usually the youngest out of the three and will purchase well known brands in order to show off their wealth. This consumer is not so concerned with the longevity of their purchase and more concerned with the instant emotional feelings a product will give them.

- Conduct extensive pre purchase research - Makes logical decisions -Respond to messages that highlight product quality

Functional

- Motivated by their desire to be successful -Brands that have widespread recognition are popular

- Willing to pay premium price points

-They want to purchase â&#x20AC;&#x153;smartâ&#x20AC;? luxury

- Very much the of the moment kind of customer

reward

indulgence

Consumers Meet the parents Lordes

[Figure 14]

Functional

My Last download

Age: 27 Lives: London Occupation: Restaurant Supervisor Favourite brand: Jewellery & Accessories = Chanel. Clothing = Burberry, Zara & All Saints How often designer goods are purchased: Used to buy every month, now every 2-3. Purchase in store or online?: Never buy online, sometimes I purchase in duty free [Heathrow] but usually Selfridges. Favourite item in wardrobe: My Chanel bag & Prada shoes!!! What was your last splurge for?: It was 2 weeks ago I bought a Chanel purse and Chanel earings. Drink of choice

Spice Market [Leicester

My Last two trips

Favourite place to eat

Japan

Paris

Zuma [Knightsbridge] 44

Favourite place to eat

A little of what you fancy [London]

My Last two trips

Madrid

New York City

Age: 23 Lives: London & New York Occupation: Fashion design student & Intern Favourite brands: Undercover, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garรงons, Prada, Acne Studios, Raf Simons, Walter Van Bierendonck My Last download What are the most important factors to you when buying new clothing?: Where the garment is made [I value things made in the country where a designer resides; France, Japan, Italy, USA, England, ect] Quality of fabric. Interesting shape. Interesting print/colour/pattern. Purchase in store or online?: Always in stores. DSM, SEFTONS, BARNEYS NY, LNCC [sometimes their websites for shoes or accessories]

[Figure 15]

Why in store?: I need to see it on myself before I drop serious cash on something that will potentially look horrid on me. Favourite physical store and why?: DSM [both London and NYC stores] it has a great and interesting layout , being a creative person it feels nice shopping in a unconventional looking space that has a great design. The sell all the brands I like and the best most interesting pieces from the collections. A lot of high end stores sell watered down versions of runway looks to appeal to the masses.

Joni Mitchell

Drink of choice

Favourite item in wardrobe: I love everything in my wardrobe What was your last splurge for?: Yesterday on an Undercover jumper

White Russian

reward

Age: 25 Lives: London Occupation: Fashion designer Favourite brands: Charlie May, Celine & Zara. What are the most important factors to you when buying new clothing?: The fabric. I’m really into leather and suede, so yeah the way it feels. Purchase in store or online?: Bit of both, If I can I’ll try and get into store but sometimes I just don’t have the time. Favourite physical store and why?: I like the what Opening Ceremony are doing.

[Figure 16]

Favourite item in wardrobe: I’m living in my Adidas Superstars rite now but my favourite is... Oh this is hard! What was your last splurge for?: Celine dress about 6 weeks ago. I’m still yet to wear it...

Opinion leaders [Posner,2011] Some reasons why people try to influence others fashion choices

Interest in the fashion promotion

To reduce post purchase doubts Genuine concern for other people

Fascination with design,fabrics or fibres [Figure 18]

Trying to enhance self worth Links to this reward consumers most important factors when purchasing clothing 46

Age: 23 Lives: Liverpool/London Occupation: Fashion Design student Favourite brands: Davidelfin/, Comme Des Garรงons, Margaret Howell, Vivienne Westwood, Gosha Rubinchinsky What are the most important factors to you when buying new clothing?: Interesting silhouette and good fabric [not nasty and synthetic] / where product is made /how well has been produced / whether I can afford / something that will last as long as possible.

My Last download

[Figure 17]

King Krule

My last trip

Purchase in store or online?: Always in store. Like to try on and get opinions if looks good when spending more money on something. Like to touch fabrics and see up close detailing and if will last depending how well has been made. Favourite physical store and why?: Dover street market. - Inspiring product choices and designers sold. Love all designers there from all over world. Only sold in DSM. Presented well. Feel Japanese store represents my aesthetic well so always love the experience Favourite item in wardrobe: Prada shirt, Comme Des Garรงons Shirt, Davidelfin Dr martens, Uniqlo coat. What was your last splurge for?: Ring

Favourite place to eat

Drink of choice Amaretto on Ice

New York City

Royal China Baker Street 47

indulgence Age: 28 Lives: Manchester Occupation: Nightclub company director Favourite brand: D&G and Reiss How often designer goods are purchased?: Weekly Purchase in store or online?: In store, I tend to purchase my clothes from Flannels as I like to try the items on and see how they fit. What are the most important factors to you when buying new clothing?: I like the quality of the clothing and the fact that nobody else has worn the clothing Favourite item in wardrobe: My Christian Louboutin shoes. What was your last splurge for?: This week I bought a D&G tracksuit and D&G jeans from Flannels My Last two trips

Drink of choice

Ibiza

My Last download

Dubai [Figure 19]

Favourite place to eat

San Carlo Liverpool

Age: 24 Lives: Liverpool Occupation: Model Favourite brands: Zara, Louboutin, Giuseppe Zanotti What are the most important factors to you when buying new clothing?: Whether or not I like it and whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on trend. Purchase in store or online?: Mainly in store, I will buy some items online but my more expensive purchases I like to go into store and make a day out of it. Favourite physical store and why?: Harvey Nichols, it just has everything under one roof, and a champagne bar to end in. Favourite item in wardrobe: handbag or my Prada shoes.

Chanel

What was your last splurge for?: I bought myself some Jimmy Choo slip ons. My Last two trips Drink of choice

Ireland [Figure 20]

New York City

I I I I I I I I I I THE CONSUMER HAS A JOURNEY Key takeaways so far: - Feelings of intimidation and lack of interaction with products within luxury retailers. - Rise of spending on luxury goods from millenials -The continuing rise of middle class individuals - The three classifications of luxury consumer and how they differ 50

EVALUATE Initial discovery process

I I

/ / /

In store Through blogs Through social media i.e. Instagram

The rationale CONSIDER Re-Visit store

Price comparisons

Confer with friends

BUY In-store Online

The excitement

EXPERIENCE

Show it off

VIA Instagram/ Twitter VIA blog postsInteract with Host friends & dinner family parties 51

Experience is both online and offline

[Figure 21]

Introducing a luxury retail chain to the UK market that is focused on targeting millennial cool, taking inspiration from Scandinavian & select European retail concepts. This new concept aims to bring accessibility to the luxury retail market across the UK by bringing customers a high-low mix of product. Targeting the male and female millennial demographic this store will aim to tackle the issue of individuals feeling intimidated when entering luxury retailers. This will be achieved through in store design, products stocked and relationship marketing initiatives that will be discussed and visualised further throughout.

Target. In reference to the 3 classifications previously mentioned [Functional,Reward,Indulgence], 24Ten will only be targeting those who buy into luxury for functional and rewarding purposes. The reason being that this store is steering away from “it” bags and shoes and “of the moment” designers and instead presenting products that will become possessions in the customers wardrobe that will be used for years to come. The idea is that the store is seen as an aspiration to pre millenials so that when they make the transition from high street to designer they are already familiar with and have formed a relationship with 24Ten. This may perhaps be from purchasing sneakers from the store when they were slightly younger, as the store provides product and prices accessible to a wide range of consumers. However the entry level products will be in the footwear department only with prices beginning from around £90-£100, as opposed to the clothing which is were the luxury price tags will appear. Taking further classification from Posner [2011] 24Ten will be targeting the following acronym consumer groups; • DINKYS • YADS • KIPPERS

- Double income no kids yet – Young and determined savers – Kids in parents pockets eroding retirement savings

The big idea / 53

Target

Early Adopters

Early Ma jority

Late Ma jority

Innovators

Laggards [Rogers curve of innovation,1995]

Brand Promise â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;24Ten is more than just a store, the selection of designers and products play a vital role, with an emphasis on design, good craftsmanship and creativity. As for the price level of the merchandise, this is just as varied as the labels and styles on offer. Ranging from street wear to high fashion, from newcomers to established designers, 24Ten offers a constantly evolving selection of garments and footwear. Rather than focusing on short-lived trends, 24Ten will present products that have the potential to become prized possessions for life. 24Ten is operating as a platform for music, design, fashion and art. The stores will host regular exhibits, readings, concerts and showcases of new works from various designers and artists. We look forward to meeting you allâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

Elements taken into consideration Store atmosphere

Post purchase satisfaction

Clientele

Merchandise

Store Image Promotion

Service levels Institutional factors

Physical facilities 54

Brand Attributes Makes prices affordable ÂŁ30ÂŁ400

Brand Personality

Stylist live chat Exploring through online channel

Inclusive space Exclusive product

ud e

ns tio ra in te n Al atio st ore st

Desirable

et re igh t s h m to o Fr ear ion Real w sh a f

ity

Relatable Prominent use of video in store

Creating a community through Swap Events

F in un, st vib or r e an de t si gn

E-pick up service

ix m w e rs lo ve gh ct Di f hi du o pro

n Inviting tio a rv m Core Values se roo e r E- ting e fit rvic Engaging ive se rat o llab Co Brand essence

10a ope m-10p m nin gh our

Loyalty App

Physique

Personality

24 swinging signage 1 0 outside store

Inviting, Engaging, Desirable, Relatable, Real, Exploring

[Kapferer & Bastien 2009]

Relationship Inclusive, Approachable, Relaxed

Brand identity Prism

Brand Culture Mix of high low culture from street wear to high fashion. Collaborative energy

Customer reflected image

Customer self image

Aware. Cool. Understated. Creative

Independent. Stylish. Early adopter 55

[Figure 22

The idea for the logo of the store originally came from the initial sketches of trying to make the lettering of 2,4,1,& 0 flow well together. Trying to achieve the same sketch style on Photoshop proved difficult which is why a newer slightly adapted version was created. Outer glows have been experimented with as the store signage will be light up, similar to as you may see at a bar or nightclub. The colour of the outer glows are much softer than you may see on the night time scene which makes it much more appropriate for a retail clothing store. This put together lettering and effect of lights relates to trends within design and graphic design which makes the decision to go for this style timely. To test this and get peoples perceptions of the logo and colour 60 people [Males and females aged 19-35] were asked on the streets of Nottingham, Manchester and Liverpool on their opinion on which glow colour they preferred. The results are shown here in order with the pale blue gaining 37 out of 60 votes. The main reaction was that it wasn’t too bold and didn’t look as “superficial” as some of the other examples.

[See Appendix 0.8] [Figure 23] 59

Inside / What sets 24Ten apart from the rest? • 10am-10pm opening hours 6 days a week. This flexibility shopping is something that can be seen in cities such as Berlin and something which aims to act as a benefit to the millennial demographic who may wish to shop later than usual shopping hours. It also aims to provide convenience and a helping hand to customers as a store that is stepping outside of the norm and going the extra mile to aid its customer needs. • “No Carry No Worry” service offered in store. This is a service that allows customers to store their shopping bags in store on the day that they purchase and pick up when they are ready to leave to head home from their shopping trip. The bags will be stored in oversized lockers located behind the point of sale and will be a part of the in store design. The service acts as a further way to provide efficiency and help to the customer if for example they enter the store in the morning of their shopping trip and do not wish to carry around their shopping bags all day, 24Ten will store them for them until the end of their shopping day.

Note: Collaboration with interior Architect Anna Moller 61

Place/ 62

Where? King Street Central London Why? Just off Covent Garden the area is quickly becoming a growing fashion destination that is in the heart of London. It has easy accessibility and a good range of adjacent store that have a similar modern vibe. Surrounding stores: Opening Ceremony, Apple, Chanel pop up beauty store, Jo Malone, 7 for all Mankind, Burberry Brit. Where? King Street Manchester Why? One of Manchester upmarket shopping areas slightly off then track from commercial areas such as The Arndale Centre. Surrounding stores: Whistles, DKNY, Agent Provocateur, Reiss, Hermes. Where? Liverpool One Walkway Why? Liverpool One is the area that gains most people traffic. The store will be placed on the outskirts of L1 so it isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t embedded in the high street retailers that also exist there. Surrounding stores: Whistles, Reiss, Flannels, Harvey Nichols Beauty Bazaar.

Where? Vicar Lane Leeds City Centre Why? Just outside the Victorian Quarter which is known for its array of designer and high end store. However Vicar Lane has been chosen as the Victorian quarter architecture does not resonate with 24Tens aesthetic as it is very traditional and Victorian. Surrounding stores: Space INK. Paul Smith. All Saints.

Edinburgh

Liverpool Where? Off George Street Edinburgh Why? This is the central street in Edinburgh but as these roads have a very Edwardian feel to them 24Ten is going to be just off the track down a side road to kind of make it an exciting find.

Manchester

Surrounding stores: Mulberry, Kurt Geiger, Reiss, Harvey Nichols.

London 63

Leeds

Price / Premium pricing strategies will be predominantly adopted to reflect the exclusiveness of the products stocked, however elements of competition pricing will be present as the designer brands will be priced the same as they are in their competitor stores such as Selfridges, Harvey Nichols etc. A point of difference for 24Ten in comparison to its luxury retail competitors is that this store will stock brands such as Birkenstock and New Balance alongside the likes of Kenzo and Isabel Marant. Adopting a high low product mix and pricing variation for the modern day reconnaissance shopper.

Promotion / Rebate for next purchase offers will occasionally happen to encourage repeat visits. Annual in store sales with price deductions [Seasonally like most stores do]. 2 hour long unexpected sales where registered customers will receive an attachment for a bar code via email which will offer a limited time only promotional offer, for example 30% off New Balance footwear In the next 2 hours, once the 2 hours is up the sale is over. Scarcity model will be applied to some lines of clothing, once the items have sold then that will be all, adding to the exclusivity of the store and uniqueness. 64

All receipts will be emailed to consumers however if the customer requires a print copy they will be provided with a print copy that will be inserted into this pouch that is a card fold out.

for the next 2 hours we are offering 20% off all BIRKENSTOCKS. Sales Ends 11AM. go go.

for the next 2 hours we are offering 30% off all NEW BALANCE. Sales Ends 11AM. go go.

Product / 66

STYLIST LIVE CHAT

MEN

ACCESSORIES

FOOTWEAR

NEW ARRIVALS

WOMEN

BUY

BRANDS

FIND US

COMMUNICATION / Attention = • Digital interactive window displays 24 hours prior to launch event • Hanging light signage outside of store in the format of nightclub or bar • Locations being central to heavy shopping traffic and consumers footpaths • Launch event – Artist Erosie doing live art and 1 on 1 styling from Aradia Crocket Interest = • Diverse product range of a high low mix ranging from high end designers to street wear. • 10am-10pm opening hours • 24Ten product search party on launch day to public Desire • • •

= Provide customers with in store look-book to show them how the product could potentially look on them E-reservation fitting room service Stylist live chat Via web page

Action = • E-pick up service

PRESS The Guardian [Observer mag] The Telegraph Stylist magazine Drapers Dazed & Confused Retail Week [Online Timeout V Magazine Hip Shops [Online] High Snobiety Hypebeast

BLOGGERS Liberty girl London India Rose Chloe Emily [thrld.com] Fashion guitar Lulu Trixabelle Pretty Sickly WHO TO INVITE TO LAUNCH

INFLUENCERS Tim Blanks [Style.com] Alexander Fury [The independent] Chris Kyvetox [Sneakerboy.com] Lulu Kennedy

PRE

Prior to the store launch there will be a 24 day countdown in the window of the store VIA a digital interactive screen, this was inspired by the Kenzo digital pop up [See Appendix 0.9]. Instead of having still editorial images in the window of the store and a “coming soon” slogan, the windows will be interactive to the public. Customers and passers by will be able to tap and engage with the interactive screens where they will be able to browse product content and get further information on the store prior to its grand launch. This will act as a way to raise customer and press awareness and begin to get people talking about the launch that will occur 24 days later. It will also act as a fun way to get across the brands personality early on as an approachable, inviting and welcoming store. With digital interactive store windows being a new concept, there is the hope that passers by will start conversation on social media hash tagging #24Ten as this will also be made clear in the digital display with phrases such as “Don’t miss out, Follow us on Twitter/Instagram” etc.

DURING

After the 24 day period of digital connection with consumers there will then be the soft launch event which will be held at the store and the main focus of this will be to invite press/bloggers and influencers with the hope to coverage in key publications both print and online before the launch to the public. Press will gain access to the store 24 hours before the public and press releases and store launch invites will be sent to key influencers around press.

#24TenCountdown The invitation [See figure 24] will be welcoming press and bloggers to be a part of the creation of 24Ten, as the overall theme of the launch is titled “Art in Progress’. The main concept for the launch event is that there is an array of creative talent coming together under one roof in an exciting and inviting way. There will be live art happening in store on a blank wall by the graffiti artist Erosie. The artist, designer and illustrator played an important role in the post graffiti movement and is fitting to the store’s aesthetic due to his freestyle way of creation and desire to “capture a certain moment”…Perfect for a spontaneous display of live art at the launch [See appendix 1.0]. He will be designing a wall for the store there and then for attendees to watch and feel like they are watching and are a part of the creation of the store. In addition to this London based stylist Aradia Crocket will be present at the launch offering complimentory 1 on 1 styling service to any attendee that may be interested. This 1 on 1 styling service will be in place to emphasise the importance that 24Ten will place on styling, alterations and advice, as the store will offer in house alterations and personal styling both in store and mobile. Aradia is a fitting choice for collaboration on the launch event due to her laid back, effortless styling, which very much resonates with the style and ethos of the store. As a further initiative to tie in with the “Art In Progress” theme the store will be partnering with Parsons school of design acting as a retail platform for two designers to showcase their collection in store for a period of 3 months from the launch event date. This partnership ties in the with brand promise of bringing the customer a constant rotation of creative designs, along with the brand personality of

Social media will be used from the very beginning on the digital interactive screens that broadcast the 24 day countdown. On the screens there will be instructions to take photographs interacting with the screens with the instructions to tag the store twitter hash tag #24TenCountdown to be in with a chance for them and two friends to be invited exclusively to the launch event. This will hopefully drive social interactions for the brand online and also begin to create relationships with new customers by giving them the opportunity to be a part of the launch.

PARTY

INVITATION 24Ten Store Opening 24Ten invites you to the private viewing 24 hours before the official launch date. Come down and be a part of our night “Art in Progress”.

FRIDAY 7TH NOVEMBER

KING STREET

OPENING

FRIDAY 7TH NOVEMBER 2014 From 7-11pm 34 King Street London Join us in our creation of the new wave of luxury retailing with live art happening with Illustrator Erosie and 1 on 1 styling sessions with London based stylist Aradia Crocket. Please Rsvp before 2nd November and we will see you there! Store opening hours Monday - Saturday 10am-10pm Sunday 10am-4pm

[Figure 24]

To engage with the public and create a buzz around the city of London there will be a “24Ten search party” that will be running on the day of the official launch to the public. The search party is a competition that will be running where there will be branded scratch cards hidden around the city which will equate to a product in store. Each scratch card will correlate to a different product, and customers will be updated via social media on clues and hints of the locations of the 10 available scratch cards. Just like a scratch card the customer will be able to scratch off a black cover to reveal the product that they have won [For example a Pair of New Balance 501’s], to which they will bring the card into store to claim their gift. This is a fun competition to run on the launch day and will act as a starting point for people to realise that this is a luxury store with a difference. A store that is by no means intimidating as most are currently seen as being, and is in fact a store that you will want to know more about and create a relationship with. As well as this the aim is to maximise their social media presence, as individuals will want to find more clues and hints to the locations of the cards with a hash tag of IFOUND24 being used when someone has pinpointed the correct location.

#IFOUND24 74

STYLIST LIVE CHAT

BUY

AFTER

The ways in which 24Ten will communicate with the consumer once the store has launched will be through its online web page were transactions can take place just like in store, as well as a variety of services that will be available which will set themselves apart from their competition with the main goal in mind to save the customer as much time as possible. These services include; • E-Reservation fitting room service. – Customers can view products online and see if the item is in their nearest store, if so they can request to have that item put straight into the fitting room were it will be waiting for them to come into store and try on. The customers full name is all that will be necessary as when they come into store (that same day or the next day, whenever they chose to have the item ready for reserve) they can walk straight to the fitting rooms, tell the sales associate their name and that they have a product reserved VIA E-reservation and they will be taken straight to their own fitting room were the item will be there and ready to try on. • Stylist live chat where the customer can speak one on one via video call or simple written chat on style issues/problems that they may be having. • E-Pick up service – Similar to the E-Reservation fitting room service customers will be able to view product online, order and be able to pick the product up in store that very same day. This would useful for customers who maybe lack time to be able to fully browse in store, so they could browse online and complete all transactions online to which the product will be wrapped up and bagged ready for pick up that day in their nearest store.

INVITATION 24Ten Annual Swap Event 24Ten invites you to our annual swap event in store. Proof of purchase will be required Come along and grab something new!

FRIDAY 12Th September 2015 From 7-10pm 34 King Street London Purchased from us before? Fancy something new? We hold annual swap events for all of our customers to come to swap items with each other to take away something new Live music. Drinks & plenty of new items to take away

[Figure 25] 76

As an initiative to enforce repeat purchase and repeat store visits there will be annual “Swap Events” held in store were by customers who have purchased items in store can bring in items that they perhaps feel that they have had their wear out of and swap for different items with other customers. This event aims to create a community within 24Ten and also aims to tackle the issue that millenials have of repeatedly being seen wearing the same outfit over and over again. It also acts as a fun way for customers to feel that they are getting a new item but of course it will all be originally from the 24Ten store. To fully monitor this receipts will be checked along with items being brought in to clarify that all swapped items were originally from the same place. The swap events will come as no surprise as they will be advertised at the point of sale at all times so that customers are made aware at point of purchase to keep hold of all of their receipts/ emailed receipts in case they decide to attend future swap events [See Apendix 2.0]

SHOP LOCATE

SCAN RECIEPT

LOYALTY

Thinking about the end to end customer shopping experience a loyalty App [See appendix 3.0] will be in place where by customers can browse product, locations and opening hours as well as generate exclusive deals for regular purchasing customers. The idea is that customers are urged to scan their receipts after purchase to earn points that will then be put towards exclusive promotions. This is an incentive to continue shopping at 24Ten as opposed to their competitors.

Further route to consumer methods will be direct mail, customers will be encouraged to have receipts emailed to them as opposed to printed in store (even though print will still be available), this is a technique adopted by Apple and would be appropriate for 24Ten also as it shows great efficiency. By customers providing their email addresses, this will be a way for the store to notify customers with any important information such as up and coming sales/new collaborations etc. A marketing initiative that will be rolled out will be the spontaneous short sale were customers will be notified VIA email of a 2 hour only sale that will be happening from the time that the email is sent out. So for example the email could read “Get 40% off Alexander Wang within the next 2 hours by showing this code” and the customer will need to rush into store within that time period if they wish to gain this discount. This type of spontaneity has been adopted by Liberty London who do unexpected sales on their cosmetics department as a way to entice beauty students to into store and get all of their stock there when the email is sent out. This Is a good, Inventive way to excite consumers and keep the brand alive.

“Retailers need to start reverse thinking and start understanding the strategic development at the post stage, where the success of a brand really happens” [Lincoln,2009] Look-books will be available to take away at the point of sale [See attachment] and will be a collection of editorial images that will be displayed around the store and also some behind the scenes shots to give further insight to the process. This links in with the whole ethos of inclusivity and realness, steering away from highly glossy and polished imagery. In addition to having look-books at the point of sale they will also be added to the “MyTrend” database online, this is a specific online platform that houses the most important lookbooks in fashion. It is a platform used by buyers, journalists, wholesalers and also bloggers. This will broaden the coverage for 24Ten and will promote the brand further.

ROUTE TO CONSUMER/ 77

SOCIAL / “The biggest pro of Vimeo is being a part of a community of artists who are constantly reaching out to each other for help, criticism and feedback on their projects” – [Washenko,2014]

Twitter will be used as a day to day conversation tool, customers will be made aware through twitter about exciting up and coming projects, new collaborations and links to interesting artists/ musicians/ bloggers that the 24Ten team find relevant. Twitter will also act as a platform for question times where interesting creatives will be invited to do live question and answer sessions as a way to link the customers to the people in the creative industry. All linking back to the brand being inclusive and collaborative.

Main aim = Enforce conversation and interaction with consumer and provide insight from industry. Facebook will be a platform were customers can talk to the team regarding questions that they may have about stock, or any other queries that they may have. Facebook will act as a platform to promote the in store swap events and any other events being held, along with any exciting news that may want to be shared with customers just as the twitter feed will also do.

Main aim = To provide brand reassurance and a platform to answer queries.

Instagram will act as the main way to provide visual content. Product and store shots will be shown as well as short videos linked to designer collaborations and behind the scenes clips from editorials. This is a way to keep the customer involved in the 24Ten whole process. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Stylists pickâ&#x20AC;? will be a weekly post every Friday were both in store and exterior stylist will pick their best items and outfit them together for the outfit of the week â&#x20AC;&#x201C; This will change week to week along with the occasion for the outfit. Instagram will also act as a way to promote certain promotions as a way to entice followers of the brand who are not necessarily purchasers to come into store and buy.

Main aim = To act as the main source of visual representation of the brand, promoting new product/brands/ promotions Video will be an integral part of the brands store identity as there will be multiple screens around the store showing short brand films/ clips from particular brands runway show, as opposed to still imagery. This is a way to engage with customers further so that they understand the brands story whilst shopping for their collections. Vimeo will be used to showcase short films that will be produced from in store events/live art events that will be occurring as well as interviews that will be carried out with designers that are brought to the store so that the customers can get further insight into the designers thoughts and processes behind certain collections/pieces. Vimeo is a platform that caters to creative, therefore this specific social media outlet will be more targeted to the community of artists that are engaged with Vimeo.

Main aim = To act as a platform which enables customers to engage further with the brand in a deeper way than just through still imagery and store visits. It allows consumers to understand the brand personality more and learn through video/filmed content. 79

FUTURE / London store opening

Nov 2014

Manchester store opening

Parsons Collaboration

Begin online blog through web page

Leeds Store opening

Nov 2015 Special collaboration with footwear brand

Annual Swap event Liverpool store opening

Nov 2016 Annual swap events in all store

Nov 2017

Collaboration based around the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Antwerp 6â&#x20AC;?. Introducing 2 new designers to display their designs from the Antwerp Royal Academy of fine art.

[Figure 26] 82

Inspiration / Colour

Editorial

In-store

Texture

Photographers

Exterior Stylists

[Figure 27]

[Figure 28] 86

In-store 88

texture / 89

Work from particular artists, stylists and photographers have acted as inspiration points for the visual aesthetic of the 24Ten brand as well as the aesthetic for the in-store environment.

The constructivism architecture style of Alexander Rodchenko and Frederick Keisler [See figure 29 ] have acted as a starting point to the in store style through their use of various levels and geometric shapes. This can be applied in store through the display units for different designers or display units for footwear. The work of set designer Miguel Bento [See figure 29.1] has acted as further inspiration for display units with his simple blocked units that are brought to life through pops of colour. This particular project was in collaboration with Oki-Ni and broke down clothing and accessories into its simplest geometric form leaving a selection of very straight forward and visually pleasing stands and units. The overall clean white base theme of the store will be brought to life through pops of colour as displayed through Miguel Bento and also the set design of London based architecture group Ada [See figure 29.2]. Their colourful geometrical set design is a perfect example of the fun, light hearted aesthetic that the 24Ten store will exude.

Thinking of alternative designs for point of sale was first brought to attention when visiting Dover Street Market London who use shed like huts to take payment from customers. A much more inventive way that enforces creativity and also sets the tone for the whole environment of the store. This sparked the idea to have the point of sale area designed like the bus shelter that you see in [figure 29.3] an image taken by German photographer Gosbert Alber. As for the outside of the store the idea is to have the 24Ten logo hanging on the side of the building in a neon light, as you may see at a nightclub or bar. This aims to connect with the target demographic and visually represent that 24Ten isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t your average designer shopping destination.

[Figure 29.2]

[Figure 29]

[Figure 29.1]

[Figure 29.3]

The photography style that has inspired the creation of in store material is a very real, honest, highly relatable style of imagery. Inspiration has come from the works of Philip Lorca Dicorcia and William Klein as well as one particular piece of work titled Fully Automated Nikon by Laurie Anderson. Fully automated Nikon is a series of photographs that were taken in response to men who made derogatory comments towards a woman in the street as an invasion of her privacy. To gain revenge the woman [Laurie Anderson] would snap a photograph of the male in the setting he was in without his awareness or consent, ultimately creating an extremely honest set of black and white images that blur out the eyes of the invasive males. The works of Philip Lorca Diocorcia and Williams Klein are inspirational as they present imagery that entwines the boarders of fiction and reality, a style that is to be replicated through 24Ten editorials.

[Figure 30] 93

[Figure 31

To link the spontaneous aesthetic of photography a youthful relaxed style is what aims to be achieved with the styling. The work from Imogene Baron, a stylist specialising in street wear is exactly the kind of look that the 24Ten in store editorials and look book imagery will be aiming to emulate. Her work embodies cool youth with locations varying from bubble-gum pink Liquor stores to random driveways. The images arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t so digitally crisp - another positive aspect, They look like they could have been taken on a disposable camera which only adds to the relate ability of her work. Further stylistic inspiration came from Shelby Fenlon after reading independent magazine Zeum. Her style is true to real life using her home surroundings for locations, aiming to capture the essence of the feelings that are felt in certain areas and situations.

NikeTown Re USE a show campaign acted as inspiration for the Swap Community initiative. This along with case studies based around the importance of creating community spaces [See Appendix]

Kenzo digital pop up store in Paris is where the idea to have the 24 day countdown displayed on interactive screens in the store windows. Such a fun way to engage with consumers. [Figure 32]

Campaign inspiration

/ Puma Dance Dictionary. The message = Tell your story. The inclusivity of the campaign is what inspired the launch event of getting creatives involved in live art and styling sessions.

PENCIL LINE

MAKING SHAPES

[Figure 33] 98

ABBREVIATION

Graphic trends / NEON SIGNAGE

[Figure 34]

100

LOOK-BOOK INSPO/ 101

LOOK-BOOK INSPO / [Figure 35] 102

103

[Figure 36] 104

REPORT LAYOUT /

105

106

24Ten is a brand that will successfully fit into the UK market, after thorough research of both the consumer and the market it is clear that there is room for a retailer that will offer high end brands in a relaxed, laid back setting, eliminating the feelings of intimidation. The 24Ten brand will bring a fresh perspective into the world of luxury retailing adopting similar strategies from European retail concepts, something that the UK is yet to see. It is clear that 24Tenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s competition are rolling out many initiatives to target millennials as their main consumer group, a group that once wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t their main priority. By solely aiming to connect with this demographic from the very beginning through visual literacy, communication efforts and in-store design 24Ten aims to gain a strong following of loyal customers that will see 24Ten as a go to shopping destination. Inclusive space. Exclusive product.

107

108