This trend booklet will provide you with information on both Menswear and Womanswear from Spring/ Summer 2012. Not only will the trends be identified, but also they will be investigated further, with relation to the consumer who wears each trend. It is not just about the trend itself, more so about the individual who is wearing it. Who are designers targeting? What traits of a personality do these targets have? I have delved into media outlets for my research to gain a thorough summary and understanding of trend analysis, and for future concepts regarding this topic and trend forecasting. 2
Menswear trends SS12. Womenswear Trends SS12. Origan of chosen trend. Magazine Representation. Designer Representation. How and Where has the trend been written about.
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The Cropped Pant. The Cropped pant (also known as the Capri pant) is a trend reminiscent of the 1950’s mod subcultures. the look stormed down the runways in Milan and Paris, and has proven to be a hit with the fashion savy male audience. It is a trend that has graved many men from the laid back hipster to the City socialites. In this section you will find a critical breakdown of the Cropped Pant trend, with the majority of this being consumer based. 4
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The Nostalgic Quirk. Subcatagory of The Artists
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otivtions & Attitudes.
This group takes strong influences from past decades in relation to music, film and their own personal icons. They exude an extravert personality displaying; optimistic, confidant and positive attitudes. This individual can come under the category of the “New Millennials� who are of the age group 20-30, who buy into new technologies, who expect a greater say in decision making processes and demand flexible working hours. Their attitude is laid back and humorous, and they place a huge importance on being liked by their peers. This male will dress around the key factor of comfort, alongside the idea of still being recognized as stylish, but in his, own personal way. 6
Personalities that are synonymous with “The Nostalgic Quirk� attitudes are icons such as; Alex Turner, Marc Ronson & James Dean. There ora and personality attributes link with the subcatagory created. They are effortlessly cool, have a strong presence among peers and society and have their own unique, quirky sense of style. 7
Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Viktor & Rolf represent the motivations and attitude of the Nostalgic Quirks in relation to brands within the fashion industry. The brands ooze extravert traits, through their design aesthetic and overall brand representation. Humour is a key element to all three of the brands which again matches that of the Nostalgic quirk. 8
The Sharp Freelancer. Subcatagory of The Artists
This group dresses in a smart manner 100% of the time. He will wear the cropped pant through variations of classic suit pants. His motivations are to be taken as a serious professional, never wanting to come across as sloppy or lazy. Think Masters Graduate meets VIP Lounge. His choice of clothing is very fitted, always showing off body shape. Everyday is a business opportunity, with the mindset that anything may arise so he needs to be prepared in terms of style. British charm mixed with high intellect. He dresses purely to impress. 9
Picture Ed Westwick, perhaps known to you as Chuck Bass from Gossip girl, he has that Sharp Freelancer attitude and style. He has the cockiness we all love to hate, with a pinch of the boy next door. The approachable heartthrob. If that doesn’t give you a tangible image, think Eddie Redmayne. With his fresh British beauty, gracing our screens through My Week With Marylyn. Vs. his sensual Burberry campaigns... It is from this shift, and from the two sides of his persona, that to the on looking audience, he becomes one woman’s desire.
Brands that can be associated with the Sharp Freelancer, in relation to Menswear ready to wear, are Dolce & Gabanna, Emporio Armani and Kenzo. They have a crisp, confident persona that you feel when you look at their collections and campaigns. This man knows how to dress; he has
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Cocktail Deluxe. Think 1920’s glitz, Great Gatsby glamour and art deco prints. This trend paced down the runways, taking us back to an era of feathers and cloche hats. Were a woman’s style was changing, the corset had been abandoned. Designers such as Ralph Lauren and Oscar De La Renta gave a 20th century re-vamp of the iconic styles that emerged during that time.
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The Runaway Dreamers.
Subcatagory of Cocktail Deluxe. This female is extravagant, in every way possible. Her motivations of dressing are to feel superior, above other members of society. She always wants more and is full of ideas, some which may seem far-fetched. Her motivations are to gain high status within society, but also to push boundaries and prove that there is no limit on what she can do in her life. She showcases wealth through accessories and materials such as silk and pearls. Her attitude is to the point, honest and powerful.
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The Runaway Dreamers can be represented by many brands and personalities within the fashion landscape. With reference to fashion brands, the representation and reputation of both Alexander McQueen and Gareth Pugh can strongly relate to this subcategory. Both brands carry very strong concepts in terms of their designs. There Avant Garde approach shows how there is always more to come from each of the two brands. Daphne Guinness and Nick Knight are two figures of authority embedded in the fashion industry. Nick Knight as a photographer pushes the boundaries through the ever-expanding digital age. He is consistently challenging conventional notions of beauty, and giving his audience more and more. Daphne Guinness as a personality is the epitome of The Runaway Dreamers, her vision, and self-representation is very understated, yet extremely powerful. She has a strong attitude and has high social status amongst her peers. She is not afraid to seek adventure, and like the other names mentioned, she is definitely
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The Vanity Obsessives. Subcatagory of Cocktail Deluxe.
Her motivations are to be admired by all and to be the envy of all that see her. For her body to be admired and not the mind. Beauty and dress over ride any other quality that she may possess. She is very connected to the world, consequently being aware of current trends and happenings. She oozes confidence with a hint of attitude, her peers love to hate her. Feminine Vs. Sexy. She is a popular figure within society, and has determination to be a successful woman. Brands and personalitites that would be associated with this subcatagory, The Vanity Obsessives, are icons such as Marylyn Munroe. Her self portrayal to the public was beauty orientated, she exudes the popularity factor and was used as a muse by industry proffesionals by artists and fashion designers alike. When thinking of brands that would be associated with this catagory, the luxury brand Lanvin and the high street Karen Millen came to mind. 16
Lanvin clothing has been recognized by the use of embellishment and lavish materials since the opening of Jeanne Lanvins Paris boutique in 1909. You can see from the two images that the role of the female is vey glamorous, and based around the over riding power of the beautiful woman. Lanvin is very connected to the fashion world and has made its stand against its many competitors. This brand stays true to its creator always valuing fine craftsmanship and impeccable ornamentation. Thus making the link with The Vanity Obsessives.
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The Vintage Vixens. Subcatagory of Cocktail Deluxe.
Think Flappers. Think Mia Farrows whimsical persona as Daisy Buchanan. The Vintage Vixens motivations are to represent a past era through current materials. They want to show that their taste expands beyond current icons and norms and traditions of today’s society. Their attitude is very moral, and has a lot of thought process behind their decision-making. These females are strong thinkers. Their style is distinct. She wants to be seen as an individual and not a crowd follower, and achieves this effortlessly.
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As a personality that you can associate with The Vintage Vixen, Alexa Chungs style is almost paralell. Her way of dressing has a specific feel to it, very british and very old english. It is evidant that she is not influenced by current trends and icons, and her choice of clothing can date back to the 1920’s, with a constant display of androdynous shirts and collars, perhaps taken influence from Coco Chanel.
When thinking of designers and brands that can be associated with The Vintage Vixens, both Holly Fulton and Hussein Challayan fit well. Reasons for this are not due to the vintage aspect, as both of these brands are highly driven by technology advancements and Avant Garde designs. But the personality and morals of each designer represents that of the personality of the Vintage Vixen. There look is immediately distinct, they are both forward thinkers with their designs are most definitely stand out from their competitors, subsequently leading the fashion pack rather than following. 19
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The trend has originated from the era that is the 1920’s. Many trends and iconic looks have come from this decade with strong references coming from film and art. Following the end of the First World War, the release of the corset gave designers much greater freedom with their designs, adopting new colours, fabrics and textures. Designs from S/S 2012 have huge references to the film The Great Gatsby, and with the re-making of the film with Leonardo DiCaprio and Carey Mulligan, who are reprising the roles originally played by Robert Redford and Mia Farrow, it is no surprise that Designers are taking the opportunity to re-visit the roaring twenties. Sleeveless shifts, dropped waists and cloche hats re-emerged on Spring Runways, reminiscent of Daisy Buchanan and Jordan Baker from the Jazz age tale by F. Scott Fitzgerald. The flapper girl image was reinvented by designers such as Etro and Ralph Lauren, still capturing the essence of the wealthy women, Charleston dancing into the fountain outside the Plaza Hotel In New York. It could be said that the trend has emerged due to the strong popularity of the show Boardwalk Empire. The American drama brings 1920’s to our screens making us loathe the era through storylines filled with crime and political disputes.
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Ralph Lauren shows that 1920’s elegance can be brought into the 21st century, with a new twist. Cloche hats, feathered accessories and dropped waists, but not as we’ve seen them before. Gucci of course took the trend, and added their staple sex appeal to each look. Glitz, feathered like dresses paired with smoky eyes and scraped back ponytails. Far from the elegance and femininity that we stereotypically associate with 1920’s fashion. Dior paired the looks with a strong rouge lip, against the neutral panelled pallets. 24
Tory Burch took inspiration from the popular French, seaside resort, Deauville. Her take on the iconic flapper girl is posh and sophisticated. If Jay Gatsby had a yacht, these are the ladies who would be joining him. Madeleine Vionnet, Gabrielle Chanel, Jean Patou, Callot Soeurs and Jeanne Lanvin, have been referenced throughout this season, taking their initial designs and turning them into designs for todays woman.
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