TOPSHOP zine
THE RECLAIM TO WEAR SPECIAL JANUARY 2015
HAPPY NEW YEAR! Resolute to go green this 2015, one step at a time.
Happy New Year! This year we resolute to be a little more friendly to the environment. The fashion industry has gone through years of media coverage of unethical environment practices and it’s time to make a difference. We have a responsibility to respect the impact we have on the world, so this project is our way of helping out and we’re inviting you to join us! We’ve decided to kickstart the year by introducing our latest eco collection with Reclaim To Wear to inspire you. Saving the environment doesn’t have to always do with great huge acts, it’s the same as sticking to any other New Year resolution. It begins with little acts of change that can make a difference. It goes the same with what’s happening in the fashion industry, you make think that your purchases may make no difference but that’s not true. Your wardrobe can make a difference. Come along with us in this lookbook as we interview Orsola De Castro of Reclaim To Wear and share our persona ecol tips for you to start out for the year. It’s going to be a great year!
lots of love,
TOPSHOP
Reclaim To Wear Orsola De Castro began up-cycling in 1997 with her original label ‘From Somewhere’, the first to take luxury pre-consumer textile waste and recreating them into beautiful fashion collections. Today, she is recognised as a pioneer in up-cycled fashion. In 2011, Orsola and her partner Filippo Ricci founded Reclaim To Wear, an organisation that brings designers, producers and distributors to create up-cycled capsule collections. They have since collaborated with several brands and design institutes such as Central Saint Martins and Hong Kong Design Institute.
One Dress We sincerely believe that one dress can still make a difference in the environment and the fashion industry. Inspired by tropical plants and completely made out of fabrics from our past collections, we introduce our zero waste up-cycled collection with Reclaim To Wear.
Castelia Dress
Iris Dress
Maile Ruffle Midi Dress
Primrose Dress
Bloom Top, Fiorella Mixed Knit Maxi Skirt
Delia Blouse, Morning Glory Midi Skirt
Gwyneth Dress, Anastacia Shorts
Reclaim To Wear Meet the brainchild of Orsola De Castro
In their fourth year of collaboration with Topshop, we speak to Orsola De Castro, one half of the duo behind Reclaim To Wear. Orsola is a pioneer in up-cycling where she creates beautiful garments with pre-consumer waste. TOPSHOP: What is Reclaim To Wear? ORSOLA: My husband Filippo and I saw Reclaim To Wear as a way of using up all the beautiful fabrics left over from designer collections. With all the environmental challenges we are facing, the fashion industry is looking for design solutions for the future. Sometimes, to be really innovative, you have to take the best from the past and bring it to the future. TOPSHOP: You’re acknowledged as the Queen of Upcycling, would you share some tips on recycling/upcycling with us? ORSOLA: If something is broken, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s unwearable. Some holes and rips are uglier than others, but this is an aesthetic choice. Some holes don’t need mending. Look at what happened to denim—they actually distress it on purpose, which is an indication that something broken can be beautiful. I believe the Japanese have a real aesthetic for broken things, like “wabi-sabi”. It is very inspiring that you can love something that looks ruined. So, my first piece of advice is, ‘Maybe you don’t necessarily need to mend broken clothes’. It is all about the aesthetic of looking at things in a different way. In terms of recycling, I know some people say, ‘Don’t buy cheap fashion’ or ‘Don’t buy fast fashion’, but I don’t believe in any of this. I believe in only one rule when you buy clothing: “Love something”. The act of buying fashion must be like taking a drug, it has to change your mood and you must desire to wear it. For instance, my favorite nightgown is from Primark. But I’ve had it for nearly 12 years, because I love it. Topshop: Do you believe there is such a thing as sustainable fashion? Do you believe that eco fashion has a different aesthetic than the ones who produce in an industrial way? Orsola: Eco fashion, ethical fashion or sustainable fashion, what horrid horrid names! No wonder we have suffered from such a terrible stigma! It should be the other way round: the worse the practice, the uglier the name. So it should be fashion for all those complying to a better industry for all and “unethical” fashion or “unsustainable” fashion for all those who don’t. As for the different aesthetic between conventional fashion and eco fashion, to me it’s simple. Eco fashion, as we have known it until relatively recently, is not high end fashion but mid market or premium clothing. It’s just a different market. It shouldn’t be a different aesthetic now.
“I am just an inhabitant of a world looking for change, doing something about it while I live.” TOPSHOP: What is your opinion on the fashion industry today? ORSOLA: It needs to change, doesn’t it? I mean the industry – it needs to evolve. Quite simply, environmentally and socially, this system isn’t working. It’s damaging. I think all of this is finally being recognised and taken into a lot more consideration. There is a definite shift towards sustainable practices throughout the fashion and textile industry. The word ‘transparency’ has never been more embraced and some companies are really beginning to include or at the very least explore sustainable solutions. But the shift is towards change, and changing takes time and is challenging. It won’t happen overnight, and we are still dealing with resistance, skepticism and misinformation along the way. TOPSHOP: Do you think consumers are becoming more aware of the consequences of the fashion industry? ORSOLA: Yes, I do. Too many stories have been told, too many harrowing images shared, too much awareness of polluted rivers and widespread malpractice have permeated in the global press for consumers not to have become aware of this issue. Today, the ones that were aware of this all along are now more outspoken in demanding change. The message is spreading despite the economy, worldwide adverse conditions and the relatively slow response from the industry itself. The consumer is beginning to ask relevant and increasingly more meaningful questions on how the industry operates. TOPSHOP: How important is education in the fight for a more sustainable fashion industry? ORSOLA: Pivotal and crucial. I think the new generation believes more strongly than we did that there is something that needs to be done. The role of an educator is infiltrating young minds and young talent and this is fundamental for the future of sustainability. However, it’s not going to reach the next generation until it reaches the boardrooms. It’s the change within the design rooms and technical rooms that will actually be effective. Topshop: Are you the change you want to see in the world? Orsola: No. I am just an inhabitant of a world looking for change, doing something about it while I live. Topshop: What are your favorite quotes? Orsola: “In nature, nothing is created and nothing is destroyed, but everything is transformed.” by Antoine De Lavoisier and “If i don’t have any red, I use blue.” by Pablo Picasso.
Did You Know? Things you probably didn’t know about the fashion industry today.
The fashion industry is the second largest user of water in the world. Pretty scary when there are almost 1 billion people in the world with no safe drinking water source.
150 grams of pesticides and other agricultural chemicals are used to produce the cotton for just one T-shirt.
60% of the greenhouse gases generated over the life of a simple T-shirt comes from the typical 25 washings and machine dryings. The carbon emissions created to generate the electricity used in these tumbler dryers exceeds the carbon emissions created during the growing, manufacturing and shipping of clothing.
Eco 101
“Going green” doesn’t have to be a daunting task that means sweeping life changes. Simple things can make a difference. We bring you tips on being eco-friendly, one step at a time.
1. Get a reusable water bottle Nearly 90% of plastic water bottles are not recycled, instead taking thousands of years to decompose. Buy a reusable water bottle instead! It’s a great choice for the environment, your wallet, and possibly your health.
2. Give it away, not throw it away Over 90 million items of clothing end up in a landfill each year. Instead of tossing your clothes into the trash, why not give it away? You could give your clothes away to a friend or even arrange swaps between friends so you’ll get something new in return. If that doesn’t work out, you could sell your pre-loved clothes away at a flea market or even on Carousell.
3. Go vegetarian once a week One less meat-based meal a week helps the planet and your diet. It requires 9464 litres of water to produce one pound of beef and you’ll also save some trees! For each hamburger that originated from animals raised on rainforest land, approximately 55 square feet of forest has been destroyed.
4. Say goodbye to plastic bags Each year 500 billion plastic bags are used worldwide. They are not biodegradable, and are making their way into our oceans, and subsequently, the food chain. Stronger, reusable bags are an inexpensive and readily available option.
5. Share! Take what you’ve learned, and pass the knowledge on to others. If every person you know could take one small step toward being greener, the collective effort could be phenomenal.
All it takes is one act to make a difference.
TOPSHOP