Johannesburg In Your Pocket Issue 13, Feb-April 2018

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Johannesburg and Surrounds

February - April 2018

The call of the city Take a trip downtown

High Times

Joburg's best afternoon tea destinations

N°13 - R40 ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

A young vibrant gallery situated in the beautiful Parks area of Johannesburg and Woodstock in Cape Town, Art it is proudly represents South Africa's emerging artists. With a diverse range of new works in a variety of mediums exhibited monthly, the gallery offers collectors and visitors an interesting perspective on the artists of our time.

Support young talent and visit our galleries or purchase an artwork from our online gallery: www.artitis.co.za +27 83 635 7744 11 chester road, parkwood, johannesburg 011 880 6961

76 albert road, woodstock, cape town 021 447 0132

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on 6 A roundup of the season’s best events

Arriving & getting around

16

Planes, trains and automobiles

Where to stay

20

Best hotels, guesthouses and hostels

Where to eat Joburg's best high teas Asian inspiration Neighbourhood hot spot: Illovo Nine cool Joburg chefs

22 22 28 30 32

Explore downtown Joburg

36

City on the rise

Nightlife Around the city in 21 bars Comedy and live music Club nights

Sightseeing

40 40 43 44

Top 10 essential sights Museums, attractions and city tours Parks, nature reserves and outdoor adventures

45 45 46 50

Soweto

52

Historic sights and the best tour picks

Shopping Cool and quirky stores Boutique shopping, malls and the Oriental Plaza Luxury shopping and markets Keyes Art Mile Vintage and thrift shopping

55 55 56 58 60 61

Joburg basics

62

Essential information for your stay

Maps 64-67 City Centre, Sandton Central, Sandton to Rosebank and surrounds EDITOR’S NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes independent editorial content. We make every effort to ensure our information is accurate at the time of going to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and listings are not paid for. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February 2018 – April 2018

3

Foreword Thirteen issues of Johannesburg In Your Pocket and we are no closer to telling the full story of this dynamic city that produces a never-ending stream of new ideas and attractions. As you'll read in our feature on Joburg's chefs (see p. 32) what stands out for most people about Joburg is that you can actually feel this city's pulse. This is not a restful place, although with many magnificent green spaces and a summer foliage that is the envy of most cities there are plenty of places in which to take refuge from Joburg's persistent energy (see p.50).

We've also done our best to highlight the Joburg week (see p.6) with plenty of options on how to enjoy your time here. Frankly, we are still dining out on being selected as a top global travel site by The Independent UK, whose head of travel wrote: 'On a trip to Johannesburg ... this was the only guide I could find that was up to date and informative about the city. Everything else I saw ... treated it as a hub for the Kruger National Park ... Whatever the city, they [In Your Pocket] really know their stuff.'

Editorial Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz-Buntman Assistant Editor Louise Whitworth Researchers Idara Udom and Melusi Hlatshwayo Admin assistant Lerato Mooya Layout & Design Nicol Paterson Photography In Your Pocket City Guides or as credited Maps © In Your Pocket City Guides and Love Jozi Publisher In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, 32 Bompas Road, Dunkeld, 2196 or Postnet Suite #108, Private Bag X7, Parkview 2122, Johannesburg, South Africa.

Enquiries For general enquiries and event listings mail us at johannesburg@inyourpocket.com, or tel. +27 11 341 0293.

COVER IMAGE

Print and online advertising Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

The Nelson Mandela Bridge is a key city landmark that was completed Johannesburg in 2003. It links the neighbourhoods of Braamfontein and Newtown, and at night lights up in spectacular rainbow hues. Joburg is a uniquely African city and no visit here would be complete without experiencing the heart of the place, downtown.

For all you need to know see our feature on page 36. Photo supplied

by South African Tourism. and Surrounds

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

February - April 2018

The call of the city Take a trip downtown

High Times

Joburg's best afternoon tea destinations

Published: February, May and September.

Print deliveries The Joburg Squirrel, oembotutravel.co.za ISSN 2311-3944

N°13 - R40

ISSN 2311-3944

9 772311 394000

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4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

In print we strive to bring you a selection of the biggest events taking place in the city. Space is limited so we can never put everything we like in our printed guides.

All information is accurate at the time of going to print but changes do occur so, for a complete guide, visit our website johannesburg.inyourpocket.com and browse our What’s On calendar.

Daily we share updates on social media, so follow us on @JohannesburgIYP, on @JohannesburgInYourPocket, or on JohannesburgInYourPocket and sign up for our weekly email newsletter at ow.ly/B7mRh to stay up to speed. Also download our In Your Pocket City Essentials app, available for IOS and Android at iyp.me/app for Joburg highlights and In Your Pocket guides to a host of exciting cities. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Robert Hodgins, Flu

Estimate R15 000 - 20 000

South African and International Art, Decorative Arts & Jewellery ONLINE-ONLY Auctions 29 January - 5 February 2018 2 April - 9 April Browse > Bid > Buy

www.straussart.co.za/straussonline

011 728 8246 | jhb@straussart.co.za | 021 683 6560 | ct@straussart.co.za Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

Sunday street party, Maboneng. Photo: Curiocity Hostels

What’s On

YOUR JOBURG WEEK Joburg is always happening. While Mondays are relatively quiet (many galleries, museums and restaurants close) the city maintains a lively pulse. Downtown in trendy Maboneng, The Bioscope, open daily, offers indie, art house and African films (thebioscope.co.za). In Rosebank, art house Cinema Nouveau regularly screens international opera, ballet and theatre productions (movies.sterkinekor.co.za) while in hipster Braamfontein, jazz club The Orbit hosts events six nights a week. A festive atmosphere takes hold of Joburg as early as Thursday, building up to busy weekends (see Nightlife).

TUESDAYS & WEDNESDAYS Last Tuesday monthly: The Orbit hosts the excellent Science and Cocktails event while Che Argentine Grill keeps up tradition with Tango Tuesdays fortnightly (see p.26).

Wednesday: Visit Melville’s quirky 27 Boxes complex for its inviting Night Market (see p.58).

THURSDAYS Visit Bryanston Organic and Natural Market to buy handmade gifts and taste organic treats (see p.58).

First Thursday monthly: Art galleries stay open late in Braamfontein and Rosebank (see p.8).

Last Thursday monthly: Lebo's Soweto Backpackers hosts a fascinating fireside Storytelling session (see p.52), while Soweto Theatre features spoken word poetry (see p.54).

FRIDAYS Friday and Saturday: The Orbit's Vinyl Sessions are a regular late-night party at Braamfontein's jazz club.

First Friday monthly: The charming 44 Stanley complex in Milpark opens for late-night shopping. Finish the night tasting craft beer at Stanley Beer Yard (see p.56). Trawl the the bustling Fordsburg Night Market stalls in this predom6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

inantly Muslim neighbourhood for Bollywood films and incense while snacking on delicious Indian street food. In Joburg’s original jazztown look out for the monthly Sophiatown Jazz Encounters at Sophiatown The Mix (see p.47).

SATURDAYS Choose from family-friendly Bryanston Organic and Natural Market or mingling with Braamfontein's hipster kids at Neighbourgoods Market while sampling paella and cocktails (see p. 58). For an active day, book an inner-city cycle tour with MainStreetWalks, leaving from Maboneng’s Curiocity Hostel (see p.49). Also see The Johannesburg Heritage Foundation's tour programme (joburgheritage.co.za).

First Saturday monthly: The chilled Soweto Art and Craft Fair is a platform for emerging creatives (see p.54).

Last Saturday monthly: Art & Design Saturdays at the impressive Keyes Art Mile offers a fascinating programme of art and design-filled activities and events. (see p.58).

SUNDAYS Head to Rosebank Sunday Market for a wide range of colourful crafts, vintage items and tasty food stalls. Enjoy a rustic setting at Fourways Farmers Market or feel the city's Sunday heartbeat in Maboneng at Market on Main (see p.58). MainStreetWalk’s Picnics in the Sky start from the market where you'll fill your basket before being whisked off to the Carlton Centre's 50th floor for an urban picnic and an entertaining talk about Joburg’s history. Also in Maboneng, PopArt Theatre showcases new productions every weekend and hosts The Box, a Sunday stand-up comedy showcase (see p.12). At Stanley Beer Yard it's #BraaiDay. First Sunday monthly: Locrate Market shows off cool Soweto courtesy of local street fashion, food trucks and DJs (locratemarket.co.za). Or head to The Valley, in the eastern suburbs for some gallery-hopping, visits to artists' studios and an eclectic mix of eateries (see p.8). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

International dance music festival Ultra South Africa

What’s On

ART PARTIES & FESTIVALS 01.02, 01.03, 05.04 FIRST THURSDAYS On the first Thursday evening monthly, Braamfontein and Rosebank get taken over by art events, live music, pop-up bars and DJ sets. In Braamfontein visit Stevenson, Kalashnikovv Gallery and Wits Art Museum for exhibition openings, and in Rosebank hit up contemporary galleries on Art Gallery Row along Jan Smuts Avenue. At Keyes Art Mile (cnr Jan Smuts and Jellicoe Aves) the street closes to traffic, pop-up bars and food trucks are set up and live music performances add a festive atmosphere. See iyp.me/74150f.

24.02, 28.04 ART & DESIGN SATURDAYS AT KEYES ART MILE On the last Saturday morning monthly Rosebank's Keyes Art Mile, Joburg’s most stylish art and design hub, throws open its doors inviting you in to gallery spaces, chic stores, cafés, the uber-sophisticated Marble restaurant, and interesting bars. Enjoy a morning of artist walkabouts, exhibitions, performances, talks, screenings and book launches. There's plenty of chic places to stop for a bite or a cocktail.QK-12, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za.

04.02, 04.03, 01.04 FIRST SUNDAYS IN THE VALLEY On the first Sunday monthly The Valley – the eastern city neighbourhoods of New Doornfontein, Troyeville, Lorentzville and Bez Valley – hosts a day of edgy art exhibitions and popup events at art spaces like Art Eye Gallery and ROOM gallery in Ellis House (23 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein). There's art, food and live music at Spaza Art Gallery (19 Wilhelmina St, Troyeville) and open artist studio events at Victoria Yards (24 Victoria Rd, Lorentzville). Qfacebook.com/thevalleyjoburg.

8 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

18.02, 24.02, 03.03 CHINESE NEW YEAR Joburg’s historic First Chinatown celebrates the Chinese New Year with a huge street party on 24.02 with fireworks, traditional music, martial arts displays and plenty of food. On 03.03 there’s also a New Year street party in Joburg’s ‘new’ Chinatown in Cyrildene and on 18.02 the Nan Hua Buddhist temple (nanhuatemple.org) marks the occasion with a Chinese Cultural Festival. See our feature on pages 28-29 for details.

10.02 SATURDAY ULTRA SOUTH AFRICA One of the world’s biggest all-night dance music events with three stages, more than 30,000 festivalgoers and a blockbuster line-up of international DJs which this year includes Armin van Buuren, Dubfire, Hardwell and Afrojack.QNasrec Expo Centre, ultrasouthafrica.com. Tickets from R800-R950.

FEBRUARY – MARCH JOHANNESBURG PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA The Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra presents four major performances in February and March as part of its summer season. Look out for concerts on 28.02–01.03, 07.03–08.03, 14.03–15.03 and 21.03–22.03. Concerts start at 20:00.QLinder Auditorium, 27 St Andrews Rd, Wits University Parktown Campus. Tickets from R150.

03.03 SATURDAY – 04.03 SUNDAY SOWETO WINE FESTIVAL Taste and buy from an excellent selection of classic and emerging South African wine labels. This uniquely Sowetan summer festival includes food tastings, wine pairings, cookoffs and live music.QSoweto Theatre, sowetowinefestival.co.za. Tickets TBA. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

24.03 SATURDAY AFRICA CHIC! This annual celebration of African francophone music and fashion features performances by exciting bands from across the continent, showcasing a broad range of African music and fashion styles.QB-5, The Good Luck Bar, 1 Fox Precinct, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, alliance.org.za. Tickets TBA. 30.03 FRIDAY – 01.04 SUNDAY SOWETO CAMP FESTIVAL An innovative camping festival in the heart of Soweto.

Enjoy a weekend party filled with performances by local bands, DJs and dance collectives, plus plenty of food and clothing stalls.QMofolo Park, Soweto, sowetocampfestival.co.za. Tickets TBA. 30.03 FRIDAY – 08.04 SUNDAY THE RAND SHOW Africa’s longest-running and biggest lifestyle expo with hundreds of exhibitors promoting everything from camping to cars, plus a jam-packed entertainment programme that includes military demonstrations, a funfair, live music, interactive science shows and more.QNasrec Expo Centre, randshow.co.za. Tickets R150.

BUYING TICKETS ONLINE Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, ticketpros.co.za Webtickets, 0861 225 598 webtickets.co.za Computicket, 0861 915 8000 online.computicket.com facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

27.04 FRIDAY BACK TO THE CITY Attracting close to 20,000 devoted fans to Newtown’s streets, this is Africa’s biggest hip hop and street culture festival, timed to coincide with the Freedom Day public holiday. Expect MCs, beatboxers, rappers and dance performances plus basketball courts, skating ramps, a clothing market and a graffiti competition.QB-4, Mary Fitzgerald Square, Newtown, backtothecityfestival.com. Tickets TBA.

CRICKET India's cricket team visits for a summer tour followed by the Australians for a four-test match series.

SA vs India ODI series 04.02 SuperSport Park, Centurion. Starts at 10:00.

10.02 Bidvest Wanderers Stadium. Starts at 13:00.

16.02 SuperSport Park, Centurion. Starts at 13:00.

SA vs India T20 series 18.02 Bidvest Wanderers Stadium. Starts at 14:30.

21.02 SuperSport Park, Centurion. Starts at 18:00.

SA vs Australia Test series 30.03 Bidvest Wanderers Stadium. Starts at 10:00.

QBidvest Wanderers Stadium M-11, 35 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 340 1500, SuperSport Park Centurion West Rd, Centurion, tel. +27 12 663 1005. Both stadiums are easily accessible via the Gautrain network.

See cricket.co.za for tickets and all the details.

February 2018 – April 2018

9

What’s On FINE ART AUCTIONS South Africa’s leading auction house Strauss & Co hosts two live auctions and two online auctions (Feb-Apr) with some of the finest artworks and decorative items currently on the market going under the hammer.

Even if you are not planning to buy, the exhibitions held in conjunction with these auctions are a brilliant opportunity to view a broad range of works before they disappear into private collections, and to learn about South Africa’s rich art heritage. The full catalogue can be viewed online for each auction. And if you can’t attend a live auction, you can always phone in your bids.QTel. +27 11 728 8246, straussart.co.za/straussonline.

STRAUSS & CO ONLINE AUCTIONS Strauss & Co’s innovative online auctions are a great way to buy works on auction for the first time, with a broad range of contemporary and historical art on offer as well as jewellery and decorative items. There’s plenty of time to browse and read up on the items before bidding and reserve prices start from as low as R3,000.

Look out for two Strauss & Co online auctions this season: from 29.01 to 05.02 and from 02.04 to 09.04.

Erik Laubscher, Still Life with a Coffee Pot, Strauss & Co

17.02 SATURDAY & 05.03 MONDAY STRAUSS & CO LIVE AUCTIONS (CAPE TOWN) Attracting buyers from across Africa and beyond, Strauss & Co’s live auctions are eagerly anticipated events. This autumn Strauss & Co hosts two live auctions in Cape Town, with February's Saturday auction devoted entirely to contemporary art.

ART UNTIL 28.02 WEDNESDAY SPELLBINDERS Diving into the city's historic art gallery’s impressive archives this fascinating exhibition draws out mysteries and fuses connections, from Dutch still life paintings to Pablo Picasso's drawings, and contemporary South African art.QE-3, Johannesburg Art Gallery, King George St, Joubert Park, City Centre, Friendsofjag.org. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Mon. 10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

UNTIL 28.02 WEDNESDAY ZANELE MUHOLI Leading South African LGBTI activist and photographer Zanele Muholi has garnered global acclaim for her documentation of the black queer community in South Africa.

QB-4, Market Photo Workshop, 57 Margaret Mcingana St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 834 1444, marketphotoworkshop.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00.

UNTIL 28.02 WEDNESDAY GIDEON MENDEL | MASIXOLE FENI Gideon Mendel's Drowning World highlights the impact of climate change, with moving portraits of global flood victims, while Masixole Feni’s award-winning A Drain On Our Dignity follows sanitation workers across an impoverished township.Q B-3, Wits Art Museum, cnr Bertha St and Jorissen St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1365, wits.ac.za/ wam. Open 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. 01.02 THURSDAY – 10.03 SATURDAY CANDICE BREITZ Candice Breitz’s Love Story won critical acclaim at the 2017 Venice Biennale for its evocation of the world's refugee crisis. Personal narratives of refugees are re-enacted in performances by Hollywood stars and then shown in their original complexity.QK-12, Goodman Gallery, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com.

Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Sun, Mon. 1.03 THURSDAY – 31.03 SATURDAY MARGARET COURTNEY-CLARKE Margaret Courtney-Clarke studied art and photography in South Africa and then spent four decades as a photographer in Italy, the USA and across the African continent. Drawn to remote places, her work has been exhibited and collected worldwide. QK-12, SMAC Gallery, Keyes Art Mile, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5400, smacgallery. com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun. 08.03 THURSDAY – 24.04 TUESDAY MICHAEL MACGARRY Multi-award-winning Joburg filmmaker and sculptor Michael MacGarry’s stark films typically highlight the shifting urban realities of African cities. The medium of his film work ranges from animation and narrative cinema to installation and experimental film.QK-12, Circa Gallery, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, circagallery. co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. 10.03 SATURDAY – 14.04 SATURDAY MESCHAC GABA One of West Africa’s most celebrated artists, Meschac Gaba's powerful Museum of Contemporary African Art installation was displayed at Tate Modern in 2013. Gaba’s works speak to colonialism and imperialism and are striking commentary on contemporary African cultural identity. QC-3, Stevenson, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1055, stevenson. info. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Kristi-Leigh Gresse in a performance for Dance Umbrella 2018

What’s On

THEATRE & DANCE UNTIL 17.02 SATURDAY BLONDE POISON An intriguing morality tale based on a true story that raises an uncomfortable question; 'What would I have done?'.

Fiona Ramsay plays Stella Goldschlag, a woman confronting her ugly past. As a Jew living illegally in war-torn Berlin she worked with the Gestapo in order to save herself and her family from the death camps, a horrifying truth which she has finally decided to reveal to the world.Q Auto & General Theatre on the Square. Tickets from R175.

UNTIL 04.03 SUNDAY THE COLOR PURPLE An inspiring and uplifting story of hardship and hope set in the American south. Early 20th Century America is brought vividly to life with a joyous Tony Award-winning score of jazz, ragtime, gospel and blues while audiences are taken on a rollercoaster ride of emotions. With an all-star cast and crew this promises to be one of the biggest South African stage productions of the year.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets from R240.

14.02 WEDNESDAY – 11.03 SUNDAY THE ILLUSIONISTS Rediscover magic at this thrilling stage show. Coming to Joburg directly from Broadway, the blockbuster Illusionists brings together some of the world’s best illusionists and magicians, including Britain’s Got Talent finalist Darcy Oake.

QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R300.

20.02 TUESDAY – 11.03 SUNDAY WOZA ALBERT! One of the most celebrated examples of South African anti-apartheid satirical theatre, Woza Albert! imagines the second coming of Jesus Christ, with the messiah return12 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

ing to the world in 1980s South Africa. Arriving on an SAA flight, Jesus is initially welcomed but soon falls foul of the cruel apartheid state who persecute, torture and imprison him, causing him to perform various miracles to escape.

QSoweto Theatre. Tickets from R60.

2.03 FRIDAY – 01.04 SUNDAY HEDWIG AND THE ANGRY INCH A raucous tale of an East German singer who undergoes a botched sex change in order to elope with an American soldier. After her soldier beau leaves, she moves to a Kansas trailer park and is betrayed by a new love who steals her music, forcing her to reinvent herself as an ultra-glamorous 'internationally ignored' rock singer.QPieter Toerien Theatre at Montecasino. Tickets from R150.

THEATRES AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE L-9, Nelson Mandela Square, West St, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 8606, theatreonthesquare.co.za JOBURG THEATRE C/D-2, 163 Civic Blvd, Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, joburgtheatre.com.

MONTECASINO THEATRES Montecasino Casino & Entertainment Centre, Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365/6, montecasino.co.za.

POPART THEATRE F-5, Small theatre showcasing the work of new local writers with a new production weekly. F-4, 286 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 83 245 1040, popartcentre.co.za.

SOWETO THEATRE Cnr Bolani Rd and Koma St, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930 7462, sowetotheatre.com THEATRE OF MARCELLUS Emperors Palace Casino and Entertainment Centre, 64 Jones Rd, Kempton Park, tel. +27 11 928 1000, emperorspalace.co.za.

WITS THEATRE B-3, Cnr Jorissen and Station Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 1376, wits.ac.za/witstheatre. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Penny Siopis, Cake

Estimate R600 000 - 800 000

Contemporary Art Auction, Saturday 17 February 2018 Block B, Cape Town Cruise Terminal Duncan Road, V&A Waterfront, Cape Town Enquiries +27 21 683 6560 ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

What’s On 06.03 TUESDAY – 17.03 SATURDAY DANCE UMBRELLA Celebrating its 30th year, South Africa’s first annual contemporary dance festival presents an outstanding programme of new choreography and international collaborations by leading names in South African contemporary dance including provocative internationally acclaimed artist Steven Cohen. This year the festival takes place at Wits Theatre, Newtown’s Dance Factory, the UJ Centre for the Arts and Nelson Mandela Square.Q danceforumsouthafrica.co.za. Tickets from R50.

06.04 FRIDAY – 15.04 SUNDAY JOBURG BALLET – CARMEN South Africa’s leading ballet company brings Carmen back to the Joburg stage. A timeless tale of passion and betrayal set in southern Spain, this version of Bizet’s classic is choreographed by leading South African choreographer Veronica Paeper with live orchestral accompaniment from the Johannesburg Philharmonic Orchestra.QJoburg Theatre, joburgballet.com. Tickets from R100.

FAMILY FUN For a regular programme of theatre productions for kids check out The National Children's Theatre (3 Junction Ave, Parktown, tel. +27 11 484 1584, nationalchildrenstheatre. org.za) or People's Theatre at Joburg Theatre.

One of South Africa’s oldest racecourses, the Turffontein Racecourse was built in 1887 and is widely considered by experts as one of the most difficult tracks in the country.

With a steady climb from the 1200m mark to the final post, Turffontein is known for having produced some of the most thrilling finishes in South African racing history. The course is also famed for its magnificent views of Joburg’s iconic skyline.

One of Turffontein’s biggest signature events is the annual South African Triple Crown competition.

Billed as horse racing’s ultimate test, the series consists of four top-level races, starting with two alternate first legs; the Cape Guineas in Cape Town and the Gauteng Guineas in Turffontein. The second leg is the SA Classic and the third and final race is the SA Derby (Champions Day), both of which take place at Turffontein.

It takes an exceptional horse to win all three legs of the series; only three horses have ever won the Triple Crown, with the most recent being three-year-old Abashiri in 2016.

Another of Turffontein’s biggest race days is the glamorous HSH Princess Charlene Empress Club Stakes, named for the princess of Monaco, formerly Charlene Wittstock who prior to becoming a royal competed as an Olympic swimmer for South Africa.

This race day is the day to come dressed in your finest – think top hats and coat tails for the men and attentiongrabbing hats, or fascinators for ladies.

Race Days run from 11:00-19:00 with races taking place throughout the day.

KEY EVENTS 03.03 SA Triple Crown – Guineas Day 07.04 SA Triple Crown – Classic Day 21.04 HSH Princess Charlene Empress Club Stakes 05.05 SA Triple Crown – Champions Day Q14 Turf Club St, Turffontein. For more information on Race Days and to book tickets visit itsarush.co.za.

Turffontein Racecourse

29.03 THURSDAY – 02.04 MONDAY PEPPA PIG LIVE The lovable pre-school animated series Peppa Pig comes to South Africa with an exciting stage show that promises to entertain and educate. We know plenty of pre-school toddlers who will be over the moon at this one.QTheatre of Marcellus at Emperors Palace. Tickets from R199-R799.

31.03 SATURDAY – 29.04 SUNDAY THE SOUND OF MUSIC A lavish all-star production of the Rogers and Hammerstein family favourite. An iconic score, a timeless love story and a thrilling denouement which sees the Von Trapp family flee Nazi Austria via the Swiss Alps with the help of some wily nuns.QTeatro at Montecasino. Tickets from R300.

RACING AT TURFFONTEIN

14 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Erik Laubscher, Still Life with Coffee Pot and Fruit (detail)

Estimate R1 500 000 - 2 000 000

Important South African and International Art, Decorative Arts and Jewellery Auction, Monday 5 March 2018, The Vineyard Hotel, Cape Town

Preview

2 - 4 March

Enquiries +27 21 683 6560 ct@straussart.co.za

Strauss & Co: The global leader in the South African art market

www.straussart.co.za

The Cosmopolitan in Maboneng.. Photo: Anton Bosman

Arriving & Getting Around

ARRIVING Johannesburg, known to locals as Joburg, is served by two airports: the major transport hub, O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of Sandton.

Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo, while Lanseria is used by some budget airlines serving destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries.

The busiest times are in the evening and morning when most transcontinental flights arrive and depart. Unlike on international flights, domestic flights do not impose restrictions on carrying liquids in your hand luggage.

O.R. TAMBO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Southern Africa’s biggest airport is spacious and modern. The domestic terminal has a range of retail stores, plus a useful supermarket. The building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two terminals: A and B. The check-in for all domestic and all South African Airways (SAA) flights is in Terminal B, and for other international flights, in Terminal A. For security purposes have your luggage safely locked or wrapped, and only hand over your luggage to staff at the check-in counter.

For real-time flight information, text your flight number to 35007. Queues for security and passport control can be long so we advise you to arrive at the airport three hours before your international flight and one and a half hours before domestic flights.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86 727 7888 (flight information), acsa.co.za.

Getting to/from O.R. Tambo International Airport Catch the Gautrain rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton. A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport costs R151. After hours (stations open around 05:00 and close around 21:00) you will need to travel by taxi or book a shuttle bus. Official airport taxi service Ortacc Cabs (tel. +27 86 124 3243, ortacc.co.za) charges R14.50 per kilometre. Follow the signs in the airport terminals to the taxi booking office.

16 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

LANSERIA AIRPORT Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the airport of choice for charter flights to private game reserves, and is used by local budget carriers such as Mango and Kulula. There is no public transport at Lanseria Airport so you will need to book a taxi or arrange a transfer service if you are not renting a car at the airport. If travelling between Lanseria and O.R. Tambo International Airport the quickest and most cost-effective option is to arrange for a taxi or transfer service to take you from Lanseria to the Sandton Gautrain station and from there to board the Gautrain.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, lanseria.co.za. Lanseria Taxi office, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066 6435, lanseriataxis.com.

LOCAL AIRLINES SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS (SAA) The national airline flies to more than 100 destinations around the world.QTel. 0861 606 606 or +27 11 978 1111, flysaa.com.

AIRLINK Specialising in flights from Joburg to regional hubs and private safari lodges in southern Africa.QTel. +27 11 451 7350, flyairlink.com.

BRITISH AIRWAYS Regional flights from Joburg to other South African destinations are operated by local partner Comair.QTel. +27 11 921 0222 or +27 10 344 0130, britishairways.com.

FASTJET Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to destinations in Tanzania and Zimbabwe.QTel. +27 10 500 2560, fastjet.com.

KULULA AIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities, plus Windhoek, Harare, Mauritius, Livingstone and Victoria Falls.QTel. 0861 585 852 or +27 11 921 0500, kulula.com.

MANGO Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to Cape Town, Durban, George, Port Elizabeth and Zanzibar.

QTel. 086 100 1234 or +27 11 086 6100, flymango.com.

SAFAIR Budget airline with direct flights from Joburg to all major South African cities.QTel. +27 87 135 1351, flysafair.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around

To City Centre To a local stop MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS

Images by Susan Woolf

PUBLIC TRANSPORT GAUTRAIN Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain (pronounced ‘How-train’) rapid rail service links Joburg, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International Airport via two lines. The main line starts at Joburg’s Park Station and stops at Rosebank, Sandton, Marlboro, Midrand, Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport taking exactly 14 minutes via Marlboro and Rhodesfield. To use the service you need a Gautrain Gold Card, which you can buy and add money to at all Gautrain stations. Gold Cards cost R16 (this is a non-refundable cost). Each Gautrain station is served by a network of Gautrain buses that link commuters with nearby suburbs. Gautrain buses are also paid for using the Gold Card, and route maps can be viewed at each station. Note that Gautrain buses do not run at weekends. You need a minimum of R25 loaded on your Gold Card to access Gautrain trains and buses. The last train to O.R. Tambo leaves Sandton at 21:04, the first at 04:50. The first trains leave Hatfield and Park Station at 05:30, the last at 20:30. The Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport route has a fixed price of R151. Prices for the north-south Joburg to Pretoria route start from R22.QGautrain hotline tel. 0800 428 872 46, gautrain.co.za.

METROBUS The budget workhorse of the city’s public transport system, Metrobus is suited to more adventurous (and patient) travellers looking to cross the city. Most buses terminate at Gandhi Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St), where there is an information office inside the Gandhi Mall with timetables and route information. Note that the buses are not known for being punctual. The majority of buses depart in the early-morning (06:00–09:30) and late afternoon (16:00–17:30) rush hours. Useful routes include the 05CD from Gandhi Square to Rosebank and Sandton City.

The main taxi ranks are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant at these busy ranks and avoid using them at night or alone. After hailing a ‘taxi’, find a seat and hand the fare to the driver (usually R10-R15 for short journeys). At main stops the driver may wait until the vehicle fills with commuters. You need to call out in advance for your stop – giving a landmark is usually easiest. Although travelling by minibus taxi can be intimidating, adventurous travellers will find it offers many insights into everyday South African life.

REA VAYA The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport system (BRT) boasts traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with raised platforms and security staff. Currently routes run between the City Centre and surrounds (including the main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. To use the bus it is advisable to register for a smart card (at Park Station, Carlton Centre or University of Johannesburg Kingsway Campus in Auckland Park) as single tickets are not available at all stops and cannot be purchased on the bus. Buses don’t make every stop unless requested so tell the driver where you want to disembark. Stops are around one kilometre or more apart. Note that you will need to show your passport or some other form of photo ID to register. Buses arrive every 10–20 minutes and most buses run between 05:30 and 18:30. Check the schedule because on some routes buses run until 20:30 (see reavaya.org.za.)

These are some useful routes: C-3 The circular City Centre C-3 route stops at most major tourist sights as well as Park Station. Stops include Constitution Hill, the Carlton Centre (visit the 50th-floor viewing deck for amazing city views), Library Gardens, Chancellor House, Mary Fitzgerald Square in Newtown and Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein.

C-1 For Maboneng catch the C-1 at Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre and get off at the Jeppe SAPS stop (cnr Albertina Sisulu Rd and Betty St). The centre of Maboneng is a two-minute-walk via Betty Street.

C-4 Leaves from Park Station. For 44 Stanley get out at Milpark and for Melville at Main Rd and 1st Ave (Melville’s main hub, 7th Street, is a 10-minute walk via 1st Ave).

T-2 and F-4 For Vilakazi Street in Soweto take the T-2 from Park Station and change to the F-4 bus at Boomtown.

MINIBUS TAXIS Minibus taxis follow set routes but are referred to as ‘taxis’.

The erratic and aggressive driving of some drivers and the sometimes poor condition of their vehicles have given the service a bad reputation. However, for many daily commuters they are the most accessible transport service as they cover large swathes of the city and neighbouring townships. They stop abruptly, do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by making the appropriate hand signal. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

February 2018 – April 2018

17

Arriving & Getting Around The easiest way to explore Joburg is by car. Shop around, book in advance and it won’t break the bank. Plan your route before setting off, and store valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the left-hand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane and don’t seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because they make frequent unannounced stops. Traffic lights (South Africans call them robots) often don’t work; treat the crossing as a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner city, and not entirely uncommon on the freeways. There are numerous car rental companies at both airports, and most offer drop-off points in Rosebank or Sandton.

AVIS Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 573 5000), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 659 1415), Hyatt Regency Johannesburg Hotel in Rosebank (tel. +27 11 442 7012) and opposite the Sandton Gautrain station (tel. +27 11 666 1700), avis.co.za. EUROPCAR Branches at O.R. Tambo International Airport (tel. +27 11 390 3909), Lanseria Airport (tel. +27 11 548 9000), Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel (tel. +27 11 666 8340) and 117 Melle St, Braamfontein (tel. +27 11 403 2679), europcar.co.za. RENT-A-WRECK Specialises in cheaper car rentals (343 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North, tel. +27 11 640 2666, rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–11:30. Closed Sun).

TAXIS AND TUK-TUKS Taxis can be expensive but are essential if you plan a wild night out. There are few places where you can hail a taxi in the street and some of the unmetered private taxis that hang around the ranks next to the Gautrain stations have a poor reputation for overcharging. It is best to confirm a price upfront or order a taxi in advance. Once you have ordered, confirm with your driver an exact pick-up point. This is especially important at the airport and Gautrain stations where there has been some conflict between rival private taxi operators and Uber drivers.

There are a number of taxi apps. The global smartphone app Uber has an extensive driver network. Download the app and choose from an UberX, Uber Black (luxury vehicle) or Uber Van. First-time users should take advantage of our Uber discount code on page 17. The city’s largest taxi company is Zebra Cabs which can be ordered by phone or using their app. Zebra Cabs also offers a service for women who require female drivers and payment is accepted in cash, by debit card or via its app (tel. +27 86 110 5105, zebracabs.co.za). Taxify is another recommended app.

For short trips through the suburbs, tuk-tuks are useful.

E-TUK-TUK Melville-based and serving Braamfontein, Fordsburg, the Parks and Rosebank. All trips are R50. Book in advance by phone.QTel. +27 82 695 0211 or +27 82515 6593, e-tuktuk.co.za. SHESHA TUKS Based outside Sandton City mall on West Street and operating within a 5km radius. Rates start at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price beforehand.QTel. 086 174 3742, sheshatuks.co.za 18 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Cycling in Soweto. Photo: Andy Carrie

DRIVING AND CAR RENTAL

TRANSFERS AND TOURS AAHAAH SHUTTLE AND TOURSQTel. +27 79 241 0828, aahaah.co.za. OEMBOTU TRAVELQTel. +27 73 083 6416, oembotutravel.co.za. JMT TOURS & SAFARISQTel. +27 10 233 0073, jmttours.co.za.

See Sightseeing for Joburg and Soweto tour guides that specialise in walking and cycling tours.

CYCLING AND WALKING Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community and bike lanes in central Sandton, Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in Soweto. These are not always respected by the rest of the road-using public however so be extra cautious when cycling in urban areas. For the most up-to-date information on cycle routes, go to juca.org.za.

Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not particularly interesting, but the City Centre, Braamfontein and Maboneng are easily navigated on foot and worth exploring. Some of Joburg’s prettier neighbourhoods, such as Melville or Parkhurst, are also best explored at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day only and don’t flash your valuables. Don’t walk through the central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and Yeoville without a local guide, be careful crossing over the bridges from City Centre to Braamfontein, and do not walk this way after dark. Watch out for oblivious or aggressive drivers who often do not recognise pedestrian crossings, potholes and uncovered manholes whether on foot or bike.

NAVIGATING THE CITY In the City Centre beware of driving into the awkwardlyplaced bus lanes as this carries a fine and take note of the many one-way streets. Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a numbered single-street address.

In the suburbs always check whether numbered names such as First or Second are streets or avenues as these usually intersect. See pages 64-67 for our City Centre and Sandton maps. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

AFFORDABLE LUXURY HOSTELS premium rooms

standard doubles

singles and dorms

CU RIOCITYHOSTELS.COM

DURBAN 55 MONTY NAICKER ROAD

+2731 286 0025 | stay@curiocitydurban.com

inner city

EXPERIENCE

JOBURG 302 FOX STREET

+2711 614 0163 | stay@curiocityjoburg.com

QSL on 44

The Bannister Hotel

Where to stay

10 COOL JOBURG STAYS  THE BANNISTER HOTEL Enjoy hipster capital Braamfontein’s weekend party atmosphere at The Bannister Hotel. The bar is one of Braamfontein’s most popular hangouts, with a late-night restaurant and sushi bar and there’s a New York-style comedy club in the basement. A stylish budget hotel, The Bannister's en-suite rooms come with plenty of TV channels, free Wi-Fi, and little luxuries like rain showerheads in the bathrooms.QC-3, 9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888/+27 11 403 6888, bannisterhotel.co.za.

 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL THE WESTCLIFF If leisure is what you seek, the Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff is the playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from the affluent surrounding suburbs. The drop-dead gorgeous views of this most-treed city make the Flames restaurant terrace a prime sundowners destination (reserve your table) or the place to enjoy a sumptuous brunch. Pre View atop the hill is a sexy tapas and cocktail bar. For a blissful break head to the superb spa.

Q67 Jan Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6000, fourseasons.com/johannesburg.

 HALLMARK HOUSE The much-anticipated design of leading Ghanaian-British architect David Adjaye, whose recent work includes the landmark National Museum of African American History and Culture in Washington DC. Industrial chic with plenty of contemporary artwork and finishes, the hotel rooms each have a balcony offering great city views. You’ll find Loof Coffee in the lobby known for its excellent roasts and the hip and happening Marabi Club for jazz in the basement. A free shuttle service will put you within easy reach of all of Maboneng precinct’s most fashionable attractions.

QF‑4, 54 Siemert Rd, Maboneng, tel. +27 11 402 0220, newmarkhotels.com.

20 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

 HYATT REGENCY One of the city’s top business hotels, the Hyatt Regency is favoured by the corporate who’s who for high-powered meetings in the lobby lounge, plus you’ll be just steps away from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment complex and the convenience of the Gautrain station. The hotel’s oneNINEone restaurant opens onto a courtyard perfect for sipping wine far from the madding crowd.QL/K-12, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com.

 JOHANNESBURG GUESTHOUSES A guesthouse network that offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation at more than 20 properties in and around the lovely suburb of Rosebank. Johannesburg Guesthouses establishments are owner-run, ensuring personalised service and a local touch plus plenty of great suggestions for how to best spend your time in Joburg. This is where to look if you fancy garden retreats in the prettiest suburbs, bed-and-breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and friendly service.QRosebank suburbs and surrounds, johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za.

 LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS With so much to see and experience, it’s worth spending quality time in Soweto. Celebrated Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms, single or double rooms, or just pitch a tent in the garden. There is a welcoming beach-style bar, and an open-air restaurant in the adjacent park. Lebo’s bicycle or tuk-tuk tours are a must-do activity.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

 QSL ON 44 One of Joburg’s newer boutique hotels, this is a stylish city refuge created by the founders of Row-G, an exclusive men’s fashion label. Vintage furniture and industrial interiors combine to create an uber-stylish setting, metres johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff

Where to stay

from the delights of boutique shopping complex 44 Stanley in Milpark. We highly rate the custom mini-bars in each room.QA-1, 12 Quince St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 830 0000, qslon44.com.

 SATYAGRAHA HOUSE Gandhi lived a meditative life here from 1908-1909 developing and sharing his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance). The house is now a museum and beautiful boutique hotel that offers visitors a contemplative experience complete with yoga and meditation classes in the garden and delicious vegetarian meals. Chic simplicity at its best.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse.com.

 SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA Each room here is fit for royalty. Once home to business magnate Douw Steyn, this is where former President Nelson Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography.

The Eighteen05 whisky bar is a treat for aficionados, the spa is ultra-luxe, and we recommend a booking for a wine or tea pairing dinner at Luke Dale-Roberts x Saxon, restaurant of the multi-award-winning chef.QK‑9, 36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, saxon.co.za.

 CURIOCITY HOSTEL If it’s happening in Maboneng, Curiocity Hostel is a perfect location from which to experience the action. At the helm is the charming Bheki Dube, a photographer, tour guide and city aficionado, who runs MainStreetWalks tour company. Curiocity hosts live-music events, rooftop picnics and has a popular bar and braai stand. Guests can choose from dorms, private rooms, a loft apartment and Curiocity Pads – 12 boutique apartments, each designed by an artist to reflect a particular decade of Joburg’s first 120 years. A range of innovative city tours start from outside the front door including cycling tours of the city on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, tennis outings to Ellis Park and even a skateboarding tour of the city.QG‑5, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 72 880 9583, curiocitybackpackers.com.

For more recommended accommodation establishments, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android).

get a taste of the true Joha n n esburg

bannisterhotel.com 9 de Beer Street Braamfontein 011 403 6888

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February 2018 – April 2018

21

JOBURG'S BEST HIGH TEAS High tea has come a long way from its English roots as a meal to stave off working-class hunger after a long day. Traditionally 'afternoon tea' was associated with the middle classes enjoying a spot of tea and cake, but today the terms are used interchangeably. In Joburg high tea signals the entrance to a sugary and savoury wonderland of treats. Here's our pick of the best. Note advanced booking is essential.

54 ON BATH HOTEL At this stylish Rosebank hotel, its pretty garden terrace or the Level Four restaurant is a perfect location for polishing off an afternoon with tea and cake. The cake stand comes stocked with a generous selection of savoury treats and a range of delicate pastries, cakes and fluffy scones, all to be enjoyed with a fine loose leaf tea selection. Service is polished and friendly. Best for: a romantic tea for two or celebrating with a small crowd. QK-12, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8401, 54onbath.com. Served 15:30–17:30. Book at least 72 hours in advance. Cost R260, or R300 p.p. for the Kir Royale accompaniment. Mon-Thu for groups of four or more, Fri-Sun tables available for two.

CAFÉ HEMINGWAY’S A high tea heaven tucked into a Kyalami strip mall the kitchen here regularly creates show-stoppingly lavish tea affairs. The fantastically decorated cakes are a standout feature, all light, spongy and layered with butter cream, and bear enchanting names. Look out for the Fluttershy Unicorn. It's also an essential book club experience as literary references abound.

Taste the genius creations that Terry Pratchett or JK Rowling might have dreamed up if not busy writing bestsellers and pair them with gourmet cocktails. Best for: a magnificent heaving table for groups of six, eight or even 60.QKyalami Downs, Cnr Kyalami Blv and Kyalami Rd, Kyalami, tel. +27 11 466 0195, cafehemingways.co.za. Cost from R250 p.p.

Open 07:00-18:30, Wed-Fri 07:00-22:30, Sat 07:30-22:30, Sun 07:30-15:30. Cost from R250 p.p.

22 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

FAIRLAWNS BOUTIQUE HOTEL & SPA Enjoy a leisurely high tea at this luxurious boutique hotel tucked into quiet Morningside, five minutes from central Sandton. The setting is the pretty Manor House Bistro, a petite tea room with tall French windows overlooking peaceful gardens and filled with a quirky antique porcelain collection and beautiful flower arrangements. Weather permitting, take tea on the terrace. The style is classic English afternoon tea with a choice of smoked salmon, egg mayonnaise and, of course, cucumber ribbon sandwiches accompanied by a superb and towering stand of cakes, scones and plenty of tea. Best for: those who enjoy a traditional English countryside setting.Q1 Alma Rd, Morningside, +27 11 808 7300, fairlawns.co.za. Served 11:00-17:00. Cost R300 p.p.

THE TEA ROOM BY CRABTREE & EVELYN This casual cosy tea room decorated in botanical prints is accessed by a stairwell in the Crabtree & Evelyn store. Book in advance (50% deposit to secure booking) for ‘A grand high tea’: a balance of sweet and savoury items, among them crustless cucumber sandwiches and light-as-a-feather tartlets, served with a range of teas or coffee. End with a cake slice accompanied by a glass of bubbly or cordial: the egg-free chocolate cake deserves high praise. Best for: a small baby shower, birthday celebration or cosy tea for two.

QDesign Quarter, cnr Leslie and William Nicol Rds, Fourways, tel. +27 11 467 3415, crabtree-evelyn.co.za. Open Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00–17:00. Cost R200 p.p. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Café Hemingway's, Kyalami

High tea

High tea

PATACHOU PATISSERIE THE DIY HIGH TEA While Patachou does not serve formal high tea this is the place to create your own sweet and savoury mix any time from the superb array of delicate pastries and tarts displayed behind the counter windows. An authentic French patisserie and boulangerie quick decision-making is tough here. From rich and densely layered almond croissants to choux pastry filled with almond praline cream, delicate fruit tartlets and savoury pastries, Patachou excels. Best for: the person who prefers to be in control of their high tea destiny.

QJ‑12, 15 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 268 5702, patachou.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00, Sat 08:30–16:30 and Sun 08:30–15:00. Cost is up to you.

THE SAXON HOTEL, VILLAS & SPA One of Joburg's most luxurious and private hotels, The Saxon's high tea is served in the intimate lounge where you get to relax on a sofa. The Classic Tea perfectly balances savoury and sweet treats with finger sandwiches served on artisanal seed-filled bread, a crispy southern fried chicken mini-wrap and an innovative warm lamb curry pie pot. The beautifully presented sweets include lots of creamy white chocolate tastes cut through with zingy fresh fruit flavours.

Service is relaxed and flawless. Enjoy the flavoured coffees or strong selection of classic teas. Best for: lots of time on your hands so you can relax and settle in to your lavish surroundings.QK-9, The Saxon Hotel, 36 Saxon Road, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, thesaxon.co.za. Morning tea from 09:30-11:30, afternoon tea 14:00-16:00. Cost R465 p.p.

Sat afternoon tea with live music, R520 p.p.

The Saxon Hotel, Sandhurst

THE PALAZZO MONTECASINO High tea at the Palazzo Montecasino is served at the hotel’s Medeo Restaurant terrace which overlooks a swimming pool that would make any Hollywood starlet feel at home.

You might also get to spot an international celebrity or two in the lobby as this is a popular hotel for music stars performing at the nearby Ticketpro Dome. The daily menu, presented with elegance, comprises a variety of cakes, petite quiches, assorted sandwiches and a fine selection of single origin Ceylon teas. Best for: celebrating a special occasion in opulent surroundings. QPalazzo Hotel Montecasino, Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 3000, tsogosun.com/the-palazzo-hotel/restaurants/high-tea.

Served 14:00–17:00. Cost R245 p.p.

OUT OF TOWN DE HOEK COUNTRY HOTEL The hour's drive from Joburg to this luxury boutique hotel is worth it for tea served in a lush country garden.

The seasonal menu has a generous and tasty selection of finger sandwiches and sweet and savoury pastries.

Scones are top-notch and tea includes a glass of bubbles. Best for: as an escape from the city.QR98, Magaliesburg, tel. +27 14 577 9600, dehoek.com. Served 14:00–17:00. Cost R325 p.p.

QUIRKIEST HIGH TEA LINDFIELD HOUSE You'll find Joburg's most authentic afternoon tea served amid the graceful splendour of Victorian Lindfield House Museum following a tour of this historical treasure led by owner Katherine Love. Best for: history buffs who revel in being transported to another era.

Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932, lindfield.wix.com/museum. Open by appointment only, tours cost R50 (kids and pensioners R30).

High Tea costs R150 p.p.

High Tea daily from 14H00 to 17H00 pp at only

R245

tsogosun.com 1 Montecasino Boulevard, Fourways, Johannesburg Tel: +27 (0)11 510 3000 | Fax: +27 (0)11 510 4001

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February 2018 – April 2018

23

The Butchery by Marble, Rosebank

Where to eat

QUICK BITES From innovative street food to five-star gourmet cuisine, off-the-beaten-track adventures to fine dining shrines, Joburg has it all. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and many restaurants close on Mondays. With such a superb array of South African wines available ask about corkage fees and bring your own. Information accurate at time of going to print.

CAFÉS EAT YOUR HEART OUT The decor at this Tel Aviv-inspired little eatery is Instagramworthy and constantly evolving. Your table comes with a great view of Maboneng’s cool streets and activity. Try the latkes (potato rostis) with toppings, the shakshuka or excellent shawarma salad.QG-5, Cnr Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 586 0600, eatyourheartout. co.za. Open 07:30–18:00. Closed Mon. R. 6­B­S­W PABLO EGGS GO BAR EDITOR'S CHOICE This Art Deco-inspired café worships the free-range egg, just about any way you like it: poached, boiled, scrambled or prepared as a Middle Eastern-style shakshuka. The Yemeni flatbread is legendary and there's a great fresh juice selection. A licensed café, start the day with a Bloody Mary.

Q2 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 63 335 9348. Open 06:30– 16:00, Mon 06:30–12:00, Sun 06:30–15:30. 6­B SALVATION CAFÉ Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a memorable experience with a choice of ‘healthy’, ‘sweet’ and ‘savoury’, plus breakfast burritos. This busy café at 44 Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and its tables flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:00–20:00. B­ 24 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

TASHAS NELSON MANDELA SQUARE 'African glamour' inspired this branch of the chic local café chain Tashas that spills onto the square. Order from the extensive Mediterranean-inspired menu or opt for a signature dish. Breakfast is a real treat. For that VIP feel pay the surcharge and dine in the Flamingo Room QL-9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 883 0389, tashascafe.com. Open 07:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00– 22:30, Sun and public holidays 07:00–21:30. UL­B

COFFEE 4TH AVENUE COFFEE ROASTERS & CAFÉ Neighbourhood denizens drop by this hip little spot with their pampered mutts for a quick espresso. Tables outside offer a great vantage point for watching the street life.QJ11, The Cobbles, cnr 4th Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109, 4thavenuecoffee.co.za. Open 07:15– 18:00, Sat 08:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–17:00. 6LB BEAN THERE COFFEE South Africa’s first Fair Trade coffee roaster, Bean There sources its single origin unblended coffee from across Africa. Minimalist decor encourages you to savour the flavour and aroma of freshly roasted beans. Q44 Stanley, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 87 310 3100, beanthere. co.za. Open 07:30–16:00, Sat 09:00–15:00, Sun 09:00– 12:00. U­BS­W CRAFT COFFEE Tucked into a Newtown side street stop here while exploring the neighbourhood’s famous graffiti murals. A coffee bar, roastery and bean warehouse, Craft also makes espresso blend capsules.QB‑4, 50 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 0501, craftcoffee.co.za. Open 07:30–16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. W johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat FATHER COFFEE ​ blond-wood and white tile temple to aesthetics and hipA ster font design this coffee shop roasts its own beans on site and you can buy a neatly packaged box of the best to take home. Service is curt (if you do get a smile please let us know) but the excellent coffee mostly makes up for it.

Also at The Zone@Rosebank, Rosebank.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 82 513 4258, fathercoffee.co.za.

Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. 6­B­W

CHEESE GOURMET One of the few places in Joburg that can really lay claim to the title of stocking ‘artisanal products’. The owners are slow food champions and the deli stocks more than 140 cheese varieties, preserves and cured meats sourced directly from local farms. Take time out to enjoy a meal at the café here.Q77 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 888 5384. Open 08:00–17:00, Sat 08:00–15:00. Closed Sun. B THE BUTCHERY BY MARBLE NEW This butchery by top restaurant Marble (located a few floors up) is an exquisite and unique destination that also doubles as a wine bar, serving small platters of cheeses and charcuterie. The artwork-like displays of the finest meat cuts will make you view a carnivorous lifestyle in a whole new light. With a boutique feel, and a beautiful range of kitchen accessories this is a worthwhile stop on any food-lover’s itinerary.QK‑12, Trumpet, 19 Keyes Ave (cnr Jellicoe Ave), Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5552, marble.restaurant. Open 12:00–22:00.

THE LEOPARD + KITCHEN + LARDER + CAN DO Andrea Burgener's Melville restaurant The Leopard was a Joburg institution. Now closed its innovative dishes, made daily, can be found packaged and ready to take away from this deli. The Leopard's reputation is built on using the finest locally produced ingredients and a focus on sustainability.

Heat-up or just go-ahead-and-serve meals, so good you'll want to claim you made them yourself. Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com.

Open 09:30–19:00. 6­L­S­

PRICE KEY R = Less than R70 RR = R71–R110 RRR = R111–R160 RRRR = Take out a loan * Main course average price. No prices for cafés given.

SYMBOL KEY T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Wheelchair-friendly

L Guarded parking

B Outdoor seating

E Live music

W Wi-Fi

S Takeaways

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

TASTING MENUS There’s a growing trend of fine dining restaurants at Joburg’s top hotels, perfectly complemented by an emphasis on hospitality and polished service. Some famous food experiences include star chef Luke Dale Roberts' restaurant at the luxurious Saxon Hotel, Villas & Spa and Farrel Hirsch's menus at fine dining restaurant View at glamorous Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff. These are all among our favourite fine dining haunts. Bookings essential. See our chef focus on p. 32.

CLICO RESTAURANT Chef Marnus Scholly's six-course dinner menu has a superb wine list to match and showcases locally sourced seasonal and organic ingredients.QK-12, 27 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 252 3300, clicohotel.com.

From R600 p.p. or R750 with wine pairing.

MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT EDITOR'S CHOICE The world's top female chef Chantel Dartnall is also South Africa's queen of posh nosh. Her food is superb, delicately layered and exceptionally plated. Book an overnight stay.QFrancolin Conservation Area, Crocodile River Valley, Elandsfontein, Pretoria tel. +27 12 371 2902, restaurantmosaic.com. From R850 p.p. or R1300 with wine pairing for three courses.

WINEHOUSE ​ hef Johannes de Bruijn serves up a great value nineC course menu, paired with fine wines.QK-11, Ten Bompas Hotel, 10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld West, tel. +27 11 325 2442, tenbompas-restaurant.co.za. From R750 p.p. or R1100 with wine pairing.

Restaurant Mosaic at The Orient

DELIS

February 2018 – April 2018

25

Tastes from Havana at The Royale, Craighall Park

Where to eat

MEAT

AFRICAN

CHE ARGENTINE GRILL Leather saddles and a gigantic mural depicting gaucho life adorn the walls of the atmospheric old warehouse in which Che is located. The place is moodily lit by the glow from the wood-fired parrilla on which thick Argentinestyle steaks are cooked. Dip every morsel in the signature chimichurri sauce and leave space for the silky dulce de leche dessert. Next door is the sexy Al Lado bar.QG-5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0264, cheargentinegrill.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. Closed Mon. RRR. I­L­E­B

LEBO’S OPEN AIR RESTAURANT Located in a shady spot in the small park in front of Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers, come here for gourmet bunny chows made with the freshest bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot). Build up your appetite with a cycling tour first.Q10823A Pooe St (cnr Ramushu St), Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

Lunch 12:00–14:00. Booking required. R. ­L­B­SW

SHAP! BRAAI A quirky little braai (barbecue) stand in the middle of fashionable Maboneng. If it’s not the delicious meaty smoke wafting through the streets that draws you into this converted shipping container, then the tunes on the ghetto blaster might do it. Seating is on up-cycled beer crates and the shisa nyama style food is made to order straight from the butcher counter with a choice of tasty sides.QG‑5, 20 Kruger St, cnr Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open 10:00–22:00. R. N­B­S

THE ROVING BANTU KITCHEN AND TOURS A ‘centre for friendship and memory’, the Roving Bantu Kitchen is a meeting place, an events venue, a café and an Afro-soul food kitchen serving homemade dishes that are influenced by a variety of African cuisines and ingredients.

It's also the starting point for owner Sifiso Ntuli's Roving Bantu Treks, walking tours of Brixton and surrounds. On weekends look out for jazz performances featuring some of Joburg's star musicians.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648, rovingbantu.co.za. Open 12:00-21:00 (Call ahead in the evenings as the kitchen may close early). Closed Mon, Tue.

SUMTING FRESH This small street food joint with its minimalist menu and setting honours the chicken. It’s fueled by the same energy and love of fried chicken you’ll find at the Sumting Fresh market stalls where it all started. Innovative dishes include the classic ‘Gujon’ Chicken – strips served with Asian slaw, skinny fries, aioli, sweet chili sauce and a watermelon slice – and the unforgettable Gua Bao, a Taiwanese steamed bun filled with the good stuff and sriracha hot sauce mayo. Order an icy fresh fruity jam jar to accompany your meal.Q79 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 11 483 2331, sumtingfresh.co.za. Open 09:00–21:00. Closed Tue. R-RR. Corkage R50. U­L

YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB You couldn’t wish for a better tour guide to the tastes of the pan-African melting pot that is Yeoville than Sanza Sandile. Even top chef Anthony Bourdain agrees. At his Yeoville dinner club on bustling Rockey Street, Sanza serves up a ‘Pan Afrikan Plate’ long table dinner made with ingredients sourced from the neighbourhood market and local kitchens. You'll always find yourself among a cosmopolitan global crowd. A consummate host Sanza will regale you with his tales of the city. Space is limited and booking is essential.QG-1, 24 Rockey St (1st floor), Yeoville, tel. +27 83 447 4235, facebook.com/yeovilledinnerclub.

Costs R400 per person.

26 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat BAHA TACO This colourful casual taqueria started out as a market stall.

Specialising in Mexican street food this is a mostly cutleryfree zone, where you’ll find a menu of freshly-pressed tortillas filled with delicious bites of medium rare skirt steak, prawn, haloumi and vegetables, or pulled pork. Everything here is freshly prepared and full of spicy goodness.

Finish the meal with churros accompanied by velvety dark chocolate sauce.QShop 3 Tarquin House, 38 Grant Ave, Norwood, tel. +27 76 694 7400/+27 71 345 6625. Open 12:00-21:00, Sun 11:00-20:00. Closed Mon. R-RR. S BGR Two Americans missed the taste of home so much that they decided to open a burger joint. BGR serves burgers three ways: the cheeseburger, hamburger or lettuce-wrapped “Cardio” version. For the very hungry, order the double patty. Ground beef patties with no basting, super fresh buns and basic toppings is the simple hit formula here. Service is fast and friendly and the crispy french fries are great.QK‑12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 593 4545/+27 84 838 5959, eatBGR.com. Open 11:00–20:30. R. B­S BRIAN LARA’S RUM EATERY Rum doesn’t feature on the brief eatery menu, which is all about West Indian favourites like jerk chicken, fish cakes, and crab curry, but it certainly does on the equally slim cocktail list. Be transported to a Caribbean island in this kitsch beach bar-themed joint while sipping on Cuba libres, daiquiris or a piña colada served in an actual pine­ apple.Q56 4th Ave, Linden, tel. +27 76 320 9739. Open 11:00–23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. B JERRY’S BURGER BAR NEW This burger bar originated in Cape Town, inspired by a bottle of rum and tattooed sailors. You don't need to be a fan of either to enjoy Jerry's classic pure meaty goodness burgers with some innovative menu ideas. Try the ramen noodle bun burger with sweet potato fries.Q26 Gleneagles Dr, Greenside, tel. +27 10 140 5744. Open 12:00-24:00. RR. Corkage R40. T­6­U­S­W THE ROYALE NEW Inspired by The Royal Palm Hotel, the 1950s tropical playground of high rolling Americans, salsa music blares in the background and rum cocktails are de rigeur. As you might expect with Cuban cuisine the menu is hardly gourmet and with the exception of the oxtail pie, flavours are low key. However the lively atmosphere make you want to stay longer.QJ-10, 357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall, tel. +27 60 575 2471. Open 11:00–23:00, Sun 11:00–20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RR. Corkage R50. 6L­­B­W For more recommended restaurants and cafés, see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com, or download the In Your Pocket Essentials app (iOS and Android). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

ITALIAN & PIZZA ANT CAFÉ This legendary pizza restaurant on Melville’s lively 7th Street strip is an eclectic and intimate spot with no space left uncovered by memorabilia, paintings and other items of curiosity. It has the feel of a moodily-lit artist’s den that long predates Joburg’s recent hipster craze for curated vintage-chic and elegant fonts. Pizza is the main dish here, served thin and crispy and with heaps of cheese. Try the famous lamb and mint combo.

Reservations recommended.Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 11:00–24:00 (kitchen closes at 22:30). RR. Corkage R45. ­N­B­SU GEMELLI CUCINA BAR Joburg’s slickest Italian restaurant is owned by Alessandro Mosupi Khojane, and inspired by his Italian childhood (his father was an Ambassador to Italy). It's also where David Beckham chose to eat on a recent visit. The setting is an elegant loft-style space with a marble bar. The atmosphere is vibrant, the crowd cosmopolitan. Expect familiar dishes served with contemporary flair, rich in flavour and Instagramworthy in appearance.QPosthouse Link Centre, Cnr Main Rd and Posthouse St, Bryanston, tel. +27 10 591 4333, gemellirestaurant.co.za. Open Wed–Sat 12:00–15:30, 17:30–22:00, Mon, Tue 12:00–15:00, 17:30–21:00, Sun 12:00–21:00. Corkage R200, Bubbly R400. R ­ RR. L­B­SW STELLE Relocated from Parkview, this Northern-Italian-inspired restaurant is now housed in Acorn Lane, a rambling and secluded estate shaded by acorn trees, and surprisingly within easy walking distance of busy Sandton Central. The restaurant is spacious and flows out into a large and picturesque courtyard and garden. The menu offers plenty of delicious options with seasonal specials.QL‑9, 61 Rivonia Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 646 6996, stellerestaurant.co.za. Open 11:30–15:00, 17:30–22:00, Fri 11:30–22:30, Sun 11:30–16:00.

Closed Mon. Corkage R50. RR. L­B

Glory, Melville

Ant Café, Melville

THE AMERICAS

February 2018 – April 2018

27

Saigon Suzy, Parkwood

Asian food

A S I A N I N S P I R AT I O N Joburg's first Chinese community grew out of the city's gold rush in the 1880's and subsequently many Asian cultures have found their way here. Chinese New Year celebrations kick off in February in both first Chinatown (on Feb 24), historic home of the city's Chinese immigrants, and a week later in the newer and brasher Chinatown in Cyrildene. With an active Chinese community, local Chinese New Year celebrations are always an exuberant and colourful affair. The arrival of the Year of the Dog will be no different – welcomed with a massive fireworks display, tons of street food stalls and plenty of traditional entertainment. Another centre of Chinese culture is the impressive Nan Hua Temple, a 75-minute drive from Joburg. With a diverse Asian mix of cultures and people, Joburg offers both authentic tastes and many Asian-inspired menus.

CHINESE CHEZ FONG This weekly bookings-only pop-up restaurant on the covered patio of a Upper Houghton mansion is overseen by the vivacious Su-Yen Thornhill of Scottish- Chinese extraction. Expect a fun night out with a multi-course (between eight and 10) Asian-influenced tasting menu that changes weekly. Everything you will eat is home-made including the excellent hoisin sauce that you will want to pour over every morsel. Thornhill’s dishes are beautifully plated and each dish is to be relished.QTel. +27 74 361 9079, facebook.com/Chezfong. Costs R500 per person. L­B PRON – PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF NOODLES No deep-fried dishes, no rice and definitely no gloopy sweet and sour sauces. Owner and chef Emma Chen’s northern Chinese comfort food centres on subtly flavoured bowls of thick, flat handmade noodles given a magnificent 28 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

lift with an abundance of spring onion, coriander, garlic, chilli and Chinese peppercorns. The decor is fun, tonguein-cheek Chinese kitsch and the atmosphere is down to earth.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 11 782 1736. Open 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–22:00. Closed Sun. RR. RED CHAMBER EDITOR'S CHOICE This is Emma Chen's first restaurant, opened in 1989 in Hyde Park Corner, and named for one of China’s greatest novels. We wouldn't usually send you to a mall but you should not miss out on Chen's un­forgettable Mandarinstyle dishes. Don't leave without trying the signature spicy cucum­ber salad, Peking Duck and sizzling plates, just to name a few. Bring a crowd so you can share. Service is efficient and Chen has banned MSG. With tables spilling into the passageway this makes for a good family meal venue as kids get to run around in plain sight (another plus is Paul's Homemade Ice Cream kiosk next door). You will find the restaurant on the lower level past the cinema.QK‑10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325 6048, redchamber.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00. RR. T­U­L­S

KOREAN BANCHAN An unassuming family-run Korean restaurant that serves modern, traditional and ‘royal’ Korean dishes. The tofu, kimchi, sauces and marinades are all homemade, and the wine list consists only of traditional drinks like rice wines, soju and gamju. Bring a group and tuck into a traditional Korean barbecue, or drop by for a lunch of thick noodle soup or spicy bibimbap (mixed rice bowl).QL-8, Cnr 10th St and Elizabeth St, Parkmore, tel. +27 72 913 3269.

Open 11:30–14:00, 17:00–21:00. RR. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

YAMATO The much-awarded Yamato serves elegant and traditional Japanese food with polite service. The superior sushi and sashimi menu is more than a few cuts above your average conveyor belt and the gyoza dumplings and light tempura dishes are a definite highlight. Solemn atmosphere but what a combination of flavours!QL‑11, 198 Oxford Rd (Illovo Muse), Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0511/+27 11 268 0512, yamato.co.za. Open 12:00–14:30, 18:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–15:00, 18:00–21:45, Sun 12:00–15:00 and 18:00–20:30. RRR. L­S

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN GLORY Located in the driveway of a soon-to-be opened boutique hotel, eating at Glory is an experience. The waitstaff will dismiss the value of looking at the menu, and there's not much in the way of cutlery but once you taste the contents of a 'box', crispy Thai-inspired chicken for four accompanied by a superb blend of sweet, salty and spicy pickles and sides and steamed buns, you will be forgiven for singing Hallelujah.Q81 3rd Ave, Melville, tel. +27 84 497 8775.

Open 12:00–24:00, Mon 17:00–22:00, Tue 12:00–22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00–02:00. Closed Sun. RR. 6­U­B­S­W THE GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR Trout ceviche tacos, vegetable or kimchi gyoza dumplings and crispy scallion pancakes are just a few of the dishes on offer. The setting is a boxy wood interior laid out across a Melville rooftop. Red meat is not on the menu; instead, there’s spicy chicken wings or Korean fried chicken, lemongrass and coconut noodles, and a refreshing green papaya salad. Portions are small but pop with flavour and there are plenty of interest­ing drinks. Booking essential.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910. Open 12:00–22:30, Mon 18:00-22:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. RR. L­B SAIGON SUZY NEW The luxurious karaoke rooms alone are reason to visit Saigon Suzy, a hip Asian-inspired joint that attracts an energetic crowd. The food is Asian fusion with plenty of tasty choices ranging from small plates to baos, build your own 'Wok n' Roll' plates, ramen bowls, salads and a superb Thai red curry of beef short rib.QK-12, 144-146 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 327 6596. Open 12:00–24:00, Thu-Sat 12:00–01:00. RR. L­BS­W ORIENT This upmarket restaurant has long established an excellent reputation for its Asian fusion dishes, polished service and sophisticated setting. The recently revamped interiors and menu are inspired by the four elements, while four cooking styles – Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese and Chinese – dominate the menu.QM-11, The High Street, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1616, thai-africa.co.za/orient.

Open 12:00–21:30, Sun 12:00–21:00.TL­S­W facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

CHINATOWN FIRST CHINATOWN The city’s original Chinatown was settled on Commissioner Street in Ferreirasdorp in the early 19th century

by Chinese labourers who arrived to work in the gold mines. With the flight from the city of big business post-1994 the area lost the fight for a while against urban degeneration. Still some stalwarts remained and today you can visit Commissioner Street for Chinese food at the longest surviving Chinese restaurant in the city, Swallow’s Inn. Nearby is the fantastic supermarket Sui Hing Hong, selling everything from fireworks to sex toys, crockery to condiments and any ingredients you’ll need to cook up your own “authentic” Chinese meal.

NEW CHINATOWN CYRILDENE Find the antidote to Joburg's hipster districts on authentic Derrick Avenue in Cyrildene, Joburg’s new Chinatown. An impressive archway marks the start on Friedland Avenue and a change in tone from the suburb’s 1950s genteel architecture. The languages spoken and building facade signs are unmistakably Asian, as are the arrangement of storefronts that include supermarkets, restaurants, tea shops, fish stalls, massage parlours, hair salons and a karaoke club. The street's authentic grittiness, only seems to add to its charm.

Choose from an enormous array of tasty and wellpriced Asian food – anything from Szechuan to Thai, Taiwanese and Korean cuisine or delicacies from Shanghai. The adventurous will have fun deciphering Chinese menus that carry no English translation.

Fisherman’s Plate is a no-fuss, no frills great value Taiwanese restaurant where you can spin the lazy Susan for curried prawns, cashew nut chicken and lots more besides (18 Derrick Ave, Cyrildene, 011 622 0480).

Two doors down spartan Chinese Northern Foods serves up dumplings, hot pots, and a host of exotically described dishes (20 Derrick Ave, tel. +27 74 498 5056).

PRON, Linden

JAPANESE AND SUSHI

February 2018 – April 2018

29

Neighbourhood hotspot

Ono, Illovo

E AT I N G O U T IN ILLOV0 Conveniently located between the Sandton and Rosebank business districts, Illovo is a popular suburban hangout offering a wide choice of eateries, serving everything from pizza to poke bowls.

ILLOVO JUNCTION Straddling Corlett Drive and Oxford Road, this bustling corner has half a dozen cafés and restaurants to choose from, all lined up beside each other.

ANDICCIO 24 This chain of pizza joints does takeaways and free deliveries but you can also stop by and eat your pizza at the store.

The menu lets you choose as many toppings in whatever combination you prefer. Do as the South Africans do and order avocado as a topping. The pizzas are always excellent and the best thing? They are available 24 hours.

ONO NEW The secret to a good Hawaiian poke bowl is fresh cubes of raw fish (usually tuna or salmon) seasoned with soy sauce, sesame oil and spring onion. At this chic little casual eatery you’ll get to design your own bowl. Add your choice of rice, fresh greens, chopped slaw, and something zingy like pineapple salsa, all splashed with one of their tasty sauces and you are ready for the island life.

PERRON Part restaurant, part neighbourhood hangout, the lively atmosphere, frozen margaritas and a neon bright interior 30 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

that spills seamlessly out onto the street, are the main attraction at this perennially busy spot. Highlights include the popcorn polo taco and spicy pork belly.

PAREA A lively taverna serving Joburg’s best Greek fare since 1993.

Their wide-ranging menu includes a large selection of meze dishes, delicious roasted fish specialities and other standard Greek fare like kleftiko and souvlakia. From 21:30 on Fridays and Saturdays the restaurant heats up with belly dancers and smashing crockery. For a quieter meal get there early.

POST OFFICE CENTRE This small centre has an eclectic selection of restaurants all of which open out onto a covered arcade.

BABA G NEW Named for the Middle Eastern aubergine dish Baba ghanoush, this small rotisserie chicken takeaway spot specialises in Afro-Mediterranean flavours. Choose one of three varieties of roast chicken; and pair it with a selection of salads and super soft ‘pillow breads’ made fresh with your order. Alternatively get a takeaway chicken wrap. If you can’t wait to get home to eat settle in at the counter. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

ILLOVO MUSE CENTRE You’ll know this centre by the two huge bars – the rowdy Hogshead Pub and the 86 Public pizza and wine bar – that spread along Oxford Road. Venture inside for two of Joburg’s most popular gay hangouts, Beefcakes burger and cabaret bar and Babylon nightclub. For authentic Japanese cuisine Yamato is our top pick (see p. 29).

BEEFCAKES Pink, sparkly and staffed by muscular topless men, the menu quips; “Best Buns in town and the Burgers aren't bad either." The Beefcakes stage sees action every night with fun drag shows and camp cabaret starting at 20.30.

It's wise to book a table in advance. Gays, straights and lesbians all welcome.

MOMO SOKO Specialising in Taiwanese and Chinese street food with a twist this casual restaurant has a wide-ranging menu with plenty of small dishes to be shared. Start with traditional potstickers, Norwegian salmon tacos, and crispy Korean fried chicken wings; the grilled Chinese ‘soko’ skewers and the stuffed bao (steamed buns) are worthy of a bow.

ALSO IN THE AREA BELLAGIO Not an exclusively seafood restaurant, but the flawless fish dishes are the main attraction. Grilled kingklip, gigantic langoustines and seared tuna steaks feature prominently.

The pasta menu is the real deal, straight from a Ligurian fishing village. Bellagio is suited to lazy weekend lunches on the terrace, Mediterranean style.

TETA MARI For the best Israeli shakshuka breakfast there’s this stylish café with an outdoor deck perfect for sunny days, serving generous portions of food that would bring comfort to any troubled soul. Other musts are the vanilla-infused kitka French toast with mascarpone, halva and toasted almonds or the New York deli-style Reuben Special of brisket on rye.

VOODOO LILY CAFÉ With its recycled materials, organic, Fair Trade ingredients and menu full of vegetarian and carb-free options, Gwyneth Paltrow and fellow Californian yoga junkies would feel right at home at this popular neighbourhood corner spot.

There’s a children’s menu, kids play area out front and even a small menu for dogs. The customisable breakfast menu is excellent and portions are exceptionally generous. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

DIRECTORY ILLOVO JUNCTION ANDICCIO 24QL‑11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 4603, andiccio24.co.za. Open 24hrs. R-RR. ONOQL‑11, 1 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 78 893 1786, onoeatery.co.za. Open 08:00-19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. RR. PERRONQL‑11, Illovo Junction (cnr Corlett Dr and Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel. +27 11 880 7296, perron.co.za. Open 12:00–15:00 and 17:00–22:00, Sun 12:00–15:00. RR. PAREAQL-11, 3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel. +27 11 788 8785.

Open 11:00 until late. RR. POST OFFICE CENTRE BABA G: ROTISSERIE & DELIQL‑11, Post Office Centre, 30 Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5412, babag.co.za.

Open 11:00–19:00, Sun 11:00–15:00. Closed Mon. R. THE PATISSERIEQL-11, Post Office Centre Illovo, 30 Rudd Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0044, Open 07:30– 17:00, Sat 07:30–14:30. Closed Sun. R-RR. ILLOVO MUSE CENTRE MOMO SOKOQL-11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 6182, momosoko.com. Open 11:00– 15:30, 17:00–21:00, Fri, Sat 11:00–15:30, 17:00–21:30 Sun 11:00–15:00. R-RR. BEEFCAKESQL‑11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 447 5266, beefcakes.co.za. Open 12:00 until last guest leaves. Closed Mon. RR. ALSO IN THE AREA BELLAGIOQL-11, 196 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 0869. Open 10:00–22:00. RRRR. TETA MARIQL‑11, 5A Illovo Square, Cnr Harries and Rivonia Rds, Illovo, tel. +27 11 268 5019. Open 08:00– 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00–16:00. RR. VOODOO LILY CAFÉQL‑11, 64 St Andrew St, Birdhaven, tel. +27 11 442 6965, voodoolilycafe.com. Open 07:00–22:00, Sun 07:00–15:00. RR-RRR. (FOR ALL MAP REFERENCES SEE SANDTON MAP ON P. 67 )

The Patisserie, Illovo

THE PATISSERIE A favourite of the ladies who lunch, with its bold pink and white striped walls and small French-style tables. There is an awesome display of pastries and cakes, plus a light meals menu. Favourites are the fluffy scrambled eggs or the generous helping of salmon fishcakes with salad.

February 2018 – April 2018

31

David Higgs

Four Seasons The Westcliff

9 cool Joburg chefs

9

COOL

JOBURG CHEFS

While Cape Town may long have been regarded as South Africa’s culinary capital, Joburg has a host of energetic chefs serving up innovative and exciting new dishes. We quizzed nine of the best. Follow the boxed page numbers to read more on their restaurants.

CLICO RESTAURANT'S MARNUS SCHOLLY From: Sannieshof, North West province Favourite ingredient: Herbs and butter, and I have a secret love affair with cheese.

Signature dish: Braised pork belly, deep fried crackling, mustard and parsnip puree, apple and rosemary jus.

Why Joburg? The people, the produce, and the hustle.

They will always keep you on your toes. Joburg has an urban fine food vibe with so much to offer. We are unique.

Summer food trend: Leaning towards the braai, meat with lots of spices and herbs.

After-work dish: A good sandwich. My wife's are the best!

Ingredient you’d never use: Tinned mushrooms.

Best drink pairing: Rijks Pinotage Syrah blend 2013. I can't wait to try it with our new confit duck dish.

EB SOCIAL KITCHEN'S YOHANN SAUMANDE From: Perigueax in Dordogne, France Favourite ingredient: Chives. I use them in just about everything. They are versatile, give the taste of garlic, without garlic, and allow you to keep things simple.

Signature dish: My fish carpaccio. I use sea bass finely sliced, lightly seasoned with herbs, salt and pepper. It tastes so beautiful on its own.

Summer food trend: Serving food in its simplest and freshest form. If you want to push boundaries, create a menu using three hero ingredients for all five courses. We did this once in France and the restaurant was full.

After-work dish: Definitely risotto – my wife and I love it.

Best drink pairing: Definitely red wine or Champagne – they go with just about everything.

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FOUR SEASONS THE WESTCLIFF'S FARREL HIRSCH From: Durban Favourite ingredient: Yuzu.

Signature dish: Ostrich tartare. It's a play on the California roll.

Why Joburg? Well for one it was a company I really wanted to work for. For another, Joburg is up and coming on the food scene and a lot of people want high end food here.

Summer food trend: Fresh is best.

After-work dish: Egg fried noodles.

Ingredient you’d never use: Powdered stocks.

Best drink pairing: A Chenin Blanc on really hot days. It is so refreshing.

MARBLE'S DAVID HIGGS From: Windhoek, Namibia Favourite ingredient: Growing up in Namibia I have fond memories of cooking freshly caught fish on a beach fire.

Fish is still one of my favourite ingredients.

Signature dish: I have a signature ingredient – a seafood masala spice from Shaikhs Exotics in Cape Town.

Why Joburg? I first came here when I was in the army in 1989. I came back in 2011 and was immediately addicted to the energy of true multi-cultural South Africa.

Summer food trend: Salads. We concentrate on flavourful dressings whether it’s our smoked jalapeno and apple or red pepper pesto roasted on the coal fire.

After-work dish: Using whatever is in the fridge. Mostly cheese, pickles, fruit and cold meat always topped with Sriracha sauce.

Best drink pairing: Wine. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

RED CHAMBER AND PRON'S EMMA CHEN From: Taichung, Taiwan Favourite ingredient? Bean paste.

Signature dish: Peking Duck.

Favourite kitchen tool? Chopsticks.

Why Joburg? Johannesburg is my home away from home.

Summer food trend: Sharing assorted starters (tapas dishes) instead of mains.

Dish to master: Short crust apple flan After-work dish: Noodles in soup.

Best drink pairing: Chrysanthemum tea in summer, oolong tea in winter.

WINEHOUSE'S JOHANNES DE BRUIJN From: Johannesburg Favourite ingredient: Garlic: raw, roasted, confit, fermented, blackened, pickled or puréed. Depending on the version, each has a different nuance and influence on a dish.

Signature dish: Cucumber salad consisting of three varieties of cucumber, with apple and olive salsa, compressed honeydew melon, Danish feta and mint and cucumber sorbet.

Why Joburg? I love big cities and the vibe from city life.

Joburg presents opportunities for chefs to make their mark.

Dish to master: White chocolate and almond entremet.

It's a dessert I've been developing over three months consisting of various textures of white chocolate and almonds. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

EB Social Kitchen

Chantel Dartnall

Sanza Sandile

MOSAIC AT THE ORIENT'S CHANTEL DARTNELL From: Pretoria Favourite ingredient? I absolutely love lemongrass.

Why here? I grew up in the tranquil and lush surroundings of our Francolin Conservancy in Elandsfontein, a 40-minute drive from both the Eastern Suburbs of Pretoria and Johannesburg. It is peaceful and I'm surrounded by the beauty of mother nature. I want to share this with my guests and allow them to escape their rushed existence.

Dish to master: Japanese sashimi (the ultimate perfection in simplicity and quality).

After-work dish: A cheese sandwich.

Best drink pairing: Champagne.

WORKSHOP 55'S ALEX WEBBER From: Johannesburg Favourite ingredient: Everything tastes better when freshly pulled from the earth only hours earlier. Then again, I do love truffle.

Signature dish: At the moment it's our pork belly, parsnip and celeriac purée, with rhubarb with five-spice. My favourite vegetarian dish is a crumbed artichoke mousse.

Why Joburg? You will have to look hard to find a city with such diversity. This brings some challenges but it's also so rewarding to work and live in the city of gold.

After-work dish: After a long day I will make myself a good full house omelette. On weekends I go to town a little.

Best drink pairing: Gin and Tonic!

YEOVILLE DINNER CLUB'S SANZA SANDILE From: Jozi (Johannesburg) Favourite ingredient: Brinjal, versatile and special. I use it to showcase my art, from Indian-style township atchar to Congolese-influenced ratatouille and my take on Italian melanzane.

Favourite kitchen tool: My tongue, for tasting my food.

Why Joburg? I have celebrated Pan-African cuisine for over 20 years in Yeoville where Jozi's African beat beats loudest. Bra Hugh [Masekela] calls my dinners: "Too late for xenophobia".

Dish to master? Jollof. Mine takes from the original Senegalese seafood version to the way the Ghanaians steam the rice before that rich Nigerian tomato sauce gives it body.

Summer food trend: Our cold beetroot and banana inkomazi smoothie. I presented it in a small enamel tin cup with a short drinking straw to Anthony Bourdain some years ago. It always hits the spot.

Best drink pairing: Water. Lately though it's been an icecold Alomo Bitters and Egyptian Aniseed spirit aperitif.

Clico Restaurant (p.25), EB Social Kitchen (p.42), Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff – View and Pre View (p.41), Marble (p.25), Restaurant Mosaic at the Orient (p.29), Red Chamber and Pron (p.28), Winehouse (p.25), Workshop 55 (p.41), Yeoville Dinner Club (p.26).

February 2018 – April 2018

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Reimagining Johannesburg’s contemporary urban living experience with a prime fusion of ar t and design, music and food.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND DETAILS OF THE 2018 CALENDAR OF E VENTS VISIT W W W.KEYESARTMILE .CO.Z A

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@keyesar tmile

Downtown Joburg

CITY ON THE RISE From architecture to street fashion, café culture and graffiti art, markets to mining history, this bustling metropolis that rose out of the dusty veld some 130 years ago is one of Africa’s great urban experiences Downtown Joburg – or simply ‘town’ as many locals call it, has long been the victim of a poor reputation.

During the late 1980s and 1990s – as the apartheid state collapsed – vast areas of Joburg's city centre began to fall into a serious state of neglect. In response big and small businesses fled the city, many of them to the ‘safe’ new northern suburbs of Sandton. Throughout the 1990s stories of Joburg’s urban decay spread around the world, many of them carried by disgruntled South Africans who had decided to emigrate, and the image of Joburg’s ‘no-go’ inner city, blighted by derelict buildings and street crime, cemented itself in global consciousness.

Fast forward to 2018 and today’s Joburg City Centre is a very different place. While reputations take several decades to rebuild, downtown Joburg has already won over many sceptical locals. The mining houses have stayed put, along with headquarters of the major banks, new businesses have moved into the city, and many previously ‘hijacked’ (illegally squatted buildings) have been reclaimed and repurposed. From Newtown in the west to Maboneng on the city's eastern side trendy and affordable new housing developments are attracting a new generation of young South Africans into the city, most of them too young to remember the bad old days anyway.

For the first-time visitor Joburg’s downtown streets can feel both exhilarating and intimidating. Where the northern suburbs of Sandton are defined by abundant trees, ubiquitous high walls and gates and a sprawl that necessitates driving, downtown Joburg is easily walkable and 36 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

defined by its energetic and colourful street life.

Skyscrapers soar above busy pavements filled with a multi-cultural mix of people. Colonial architectural grandeur rubs shoulders with Modernist edifices, brash 1970s skyscrapers face off against artfully repurposed industrial buildings and all the while hawkers ‘hustle’, cross-continent traders shop, white collar workers rush between offices and the streets hum with an ambitiously ‘Afropolitan’ atmosphere.

Joburg’s City Centre has transformed dramatically in recent years but the usual cautions about big cities still apply.

Avoid becoming a sitting duck for opportunistic pickpockets by dressing for the city – leave your valuables at the hotel, plan your route out in advance and know where you are going. Watch out for uncovered manholes and speeding buses, avoid crossing the Queen Elizabeth and Nelson Mandela bridges on foot and steer clear of Hillbrow, Berea, Yeoville and Joubert Park unless walking with a guide.

Keep your eyes open and you’ll find much to admire – from architecture to street fashion, café culture, graffiti art, markets and mining heritage. Most importantly, bring your open mind as this busy city that only 130 years ago was a dusty mining camp has much to offer the urban traveller.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND For all locations see the street map on pp. 64-65. Public transport options, where available, are indicated.

For detailed address and contact information see our City Centre guide at iyp.me/johannesburg/city-centre. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

NEWTOWN

Indian Joburg is by no means restricted to Fordsburg but this neighbourhood, that lies directly west of Newtown is its distinct pulse.

A rich mix of Hindu and (predominantly) Muslim cultures, the diversity of the neighbourhood has been added to with the arrival of Turkish immigrants and Syrian refugees. On small streets, shop fronts are flanked by older residents having tea and a chat with friends, while women in abayas, hijabs and kurtas do their shopping.

Visit the landmark Oriental Plaza (38-60 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, see Shopping) that boasts more than 350 stores. A reminder of the brutal apartheid-era demolition of the nearby suburb of Fietas (the Plaza was built in the 1970s to compensate Indian shop owners whose businesses had been destroyed) it is now a thriving bazaar.

Shop here for armfuls of bracelets, hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts, bejewelled slippers, exquisite wedding wear and fabrics, glamorous evening dresses and much more besides. Bargaining is expected. Don't leave without tasting the coconut samoosas at the legendary World of Samoosas and excellent curries at The Golden Peacock.

Join the locals at the bustling weekend Fordsburg Square Night Market to trawl this open-air market for Bollywood films, jewellery, clothing and incense. Irresistible Indian street food aromas fill the air and samoosas, biriyanis and sizzling tikka kebabs can be found on every corner.

Indian dishes made to family recipes abound in Fordsburg. Head to Dosa Hut (48 Central Rd) for their renowned savoury pancakes made using black lentils. For traditional Indian sweetmeats like burfee pop into Shalimar Delights (228 Main Rd, cnr Central Rd) and at Istanbul Kebab (52 Central Rd) indulge in a dizzying array of halaal kebabs, and end the meal with a hookah pipe while the kids run around in the small covered courtyard.

On the western edge of Joburg's city centre bordering Fordsburg and the Main Street artery, the historic district of Newtown and neighbouring Ferreirasdorp have been in a constant state of renewal since the first mining camps were pitched here in the 1890s.

Over the years Newtown has housed slums and tanneries, slaughterhouses and taverns, and the city’s main fruit and vegetable market (now Museum Africa, the Market Theatre and the Newtown Junction precinct).

The bulk of the area’s leisure attractions are centred in and around the Newtown Junction shopping precinct behind Museum Africa where you’ll find plenty of restaurants and cafés and the hip Work Shop New Town shopping emporium showcasing local fashion and design brands (see Shopping for details).

Kids will love Sci-Bono Discovery Centre, designed specifically with them in mind; it offers a hands-on approach to learning about topics like space, anatomy and chemistry (Miriam Makeba and Helen Joseph Sts). Adults will love the SAB World of Beer where you can be schooled on the origins of beer, from ancient Egyptian times to present-day, and enjoy a lager in the authentic replicas of a historic pub and a swinging 1970s shebeen (15 Helen Joseph St).

Newtown's neighbour Ferreirasdorp is Joburg’s oldest neighbourhood, lined by the super busy Diagonal Street known for its abundance of traders selling blankets, fabrics and homeware, muti (traditional medicine) shops and street hawkers.

In Ferreirasdorp visit the small open-air Chancellor House exhibition (cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts) detailing the work of Mandela & Tambo Attorneys who were based here in the 1950s and Marco Cianfanelli’s extraordinary Mandela statue opposite.

Joburg’s First Chinatown (see Where to Eat), and the

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Photo: Anton Bosman

FORDSBURG

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Downtown Joburg stylish new 1 Fox Precinct are also in Ferreirasdorp. Transformed from a collection of century-old warehouses, 1 Fox houses the impressive Mad Giant craft brewery, the foodhall-style market 1 Fox Market Shed and the GoodLuck Bar live music venue (see Nightlife).

GETTING THERE: The City Sightseeing red bus stops at the SAB World of Beer in Newtown. The C-3 Rea Vaya bus stops in Newtown with two stops on Miriam Makeba Street and at Chancellor House station in Ferreirasdorp.

BRAAMFONTEIN

Mad Giant, Newtown

From a student district to Joburg’s hipster heartland, Braamfontein, a gateway to the inner city, just keeps getting better. Bordering the city centre and joined to Newtown by the Nelson Mandela Bridge, the district is flanked

by Constitution Hill and Wits University.

For arts and culture you are spoiled for choice with several excellent art galleries including Wits Art Museum, which hosts regular temporary exhibitions showcasing the work of African artists, Stevenson, known for its provocative exhibitions and installations by leading contemporary artists, and the edgy Kalashnikovv and Grayscale galleries.

Braamfontein’s two must-visit museums are the Origins Centre, which celebrates the 80,000-year history of humanity, and the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill, home to South Africa’s Constitutional Court and an extensive museum that traces the area’s history as a former colonial fort and prison. (See Sightseeing).

‘Braam’ (as it is known by locals) is also known for its cafés, street fashion stores and its energetic nightlife. For locally-roasted coffee drop by Doubleshot or Father Coffee, for lunch or evening drinks take your pick from the cafés and bars clustered around The Grove piazza (cnr Melle, Juta and

38 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

De Korte Sts) such as the budget-priced Turkish café Galata Bakery, pizza spot 86 Public and The Immigrant bar.

On Saturdays don’t miss the buzzing Neighbourgoods Market with its fantastic range of food stalls and cocktails (73 Juta St, open Sat 09:00–15:00). You’ll find the busiest nightlife strip along the short stretch of De Beer Street between Juta and De Korte Streets, an area that is particularly popular with students. Other must-visit nightlife haunts include The Orbit Joburg’s best live jazz destination and The Bannister Hotel, whose New York-style basement comedy club hosts stand-up four nights a week (See Nightlife).

GETTING THERE: Braamfontein is an easy eight-minute walk from the Park Station Gautrain. The City Sightseeing bus stops at Origins Centre and The Grove. The C-4 Rea Vaya bus from Melville stops at Constitution Hill and at Park Station as does the circular C-3 bus.

MAIN STREET The pedestrianised section of Main Street (between Ntemi Piliso St and Gandhi Square), an east–west artery through the city, has been home to the country’s mining headquarters ever since the city's founding. Through the 1890s and early 1900s, the low-rise buildings that dotted the landscape were steadily replaced with taller, grander edifices that reflected the metropolitan’s sudden enormous wealth.

Explore the city’s early mining history along seven blocks of an immaculate pedestrianised section of Main Street, called the Main Street Mining Precinct. Dotting the path are Gold Rush relics such as mining headgear, stamp presses and carts, complemented by information boards detailing Joburg’s early mining history. There’s also a decent scattering of pavement cafés to rest at and watch the world pass by.

Just after Gandhi Square on Main Street is the Carlton Centre (150 Commissioner St). For the best Joburg views visit the Roof of Africa viewing deck on the 50th floor (take the elevators from the mall basement).

Running parallel to Main Street, Fox, Commissioner and Albertina Sisulu Streets are also rich in mining history and house many impressive heritage buildings.

At Library Square Gardens pay a visit to the beautiful 1930s Italianate Johannesburg City Library and then admire the Edwardian exteriors of the grand Johannesburg City Hall at the square's eastern end. One block along at 77 Commissioner Street is beautiful Cornerhouse (cnr Simmonds Street). Built in 1903 for the Anglo mining company, when it was completed Cornerhouse was the tallest commercial building in South Africa. You can catch a glimpse of the beautiful interiors in the small ornate coffee shop that sits below a magnificent stained glass dome. Two doors along from here at 85 Commissioner Street is City Central, built in the 1940s by leading architect Gordon Leith.

Originally housing a bank, nowadays the towering triplevolume banking hall is home to a weekday lunchtime foodhall, a coffee shop and on the mezzanine level, Bridge Books independent book store and the Brass Bar on 85.

Across the street is Rand Club, one of Joburg’s most johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

That Sunday feeling in Maboneng. Photo: Justin Lee

fabulous colonial-era buildings. Founded in 1887 by Cecil Rhodes, this was for decades an exclusively white male members' club. Nowadays membership is open to all, and the club still retains its original period features.

Downtown Joburg’s other major pedestrianised street is Kerk Street, which runs all the way from Ntemi Piliso Street to the Johannesburg High Court. Kerk Street Market stretches five blocks between Harrison and Von Brandis Streets and is known for its fresh produce, vendors selling traditional beaded clothing, knobkerries and plethora of barbers and hairdressers who ply their skills on the street.

GETTING THERE: Take the J1 Gautrain bus from Park Station (Mon-Fri) and alight at FNB Bank City (for Kerk Street Market), Library Square Gardens or Harrison Street (for Main Street).

Also from Park Station the F-1 and C-4 Rea Vaya buses stop at Library Square Gardens. The open-top City Sightseeing bus stops at Carlton Centre and on Main Street (cnr Simmonds St).

filled with small cafés and bars.

The Bioscope is Joburg’s independent cinema for African documentaries and films while POP Art Theatre always offers a fun, short and sharp theatre experience.

Curiocity Hostels is one of Joburg’s coolest backpackers hostels and its adjoining The Hide Out bar is a popular hangout where you can meet other travellers while jamming to local Afro-psychedelic-grunge bands.

Hallmark House, designed by London-based African architect David Adjaye, includes a boutique hotel, a great coffee shop and the chic jazz bar Marabi Club. One of the best ways to explore the area is on a walking or cycling tour with MainStreetWalks who operate from Curiocity. (See Sightseeing).

GETTING THERE: Take the C-1 Rea Vaya bus from Chancellor House, Library Gardens or Carlton Centre to the Jeppe SAPS Station.

MABONENG

ELLIS PARK PRECINCT

This district sprang to life in 2008 when a local entrepreneur bought up dozens of rundown industrial properties on the city’s eastern edge and set about transforming them into a residential neighbourhood. Today Maboneng comprises around 55 buildings and is one of the city’s trendiest areas. Arts On Main (cnr Fox St and Berea Rd) was the pioneering development and is still a major hub, particularly on Sundays for the busy Market On Main. Tenants include David Krut Projects print studio and artist William Kentridge’s private studio and Centre for the Less Good Idea, a collaborative arts space open to the public during set performance seasons. Maboneng is known for its cafés, bars, galleries, boutiques and smart residential buildings that spread across several easily walkable city blocks. These include the cleverly restored Victorian heritage building The Cosmopolitan with its beautiful courtyard sculpture garden and art gallery Hazard. Maverick Corner, across Commissioner St, is built from shipping containers and

Less than 2km east of Maboneng is the Ellis Park Precinct.

The eponymous iconic rugby stadium (see Museums) is at its centre, along with a number of art galleries. Ellis House (H-3, 23 Voorhout St) is home to the huge Art Eye Gallery, the gorgeous Piece@Ellis House gift shop and the edgy ROOM gallery. The Troyeville Hotel is a favoured stop for rugby watchers and delicious Portuguese–Mozambican cuisine, while eclectic Spaza Gallery (10 Wilhelmina St, Troyeville) is always worth a visit. Further east in Lorentzville pay a visit to Victoria Yards (24 Victoria Rd, Lorentzville, victoriayards.co.za), one of the city’s most exciting new downtown developments with artist studios and artisan workshops, the Daville Baillie Gallery and the Impi Brewing Co craft brewery.

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For specialised city tours there are plenty of options.

See Sightseeing.

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AROUND JOBURG IN 21 BARS Whether your taste is for high-end cocktail lounges, craft beer gardens, historic pubs or classy wine bars, Joburg has a bar for you. Here’s our round-up of 21 great bars and pubs to plan your night around.  LIVING ROOM

 THE RADIUM

This fun rooftop café-bar is a little garden in the sky with fantastic urban skyline views. On Sundays the Living Room fills up for the Sunday sundowners DJ party. Late afternoon is a good time to arrive as the sun starts going down at after 18:00 in summer.

Although the surrounding neighbourhoods have seen better days, this historic pub retains a unique charm and still brims with the kind of warmth and character that blonde wood and hipster font design simply cannot buy. Every Friday and Saturday there are energetic live jazz and blues gigs, and the eclectic decor (much of it from the 1940s) and motley crew of regulars at the bar only add to its charm.

 4PM AT MESH / UPSTAIRS AT MESH Join the sophisticated set at this sexy cocktail lounge, housed in a private members’ club on the art and designinspired Keyes Art Mile. 4PM at Mesh is a slick cocktail bar that opens daily to the public from 16:00. Savour creative cocktails inspired by the stunning artworks on the walls that include several JH Pierneef masterpieces. One floor up (via a secret entrance) is pop-up bar Upstairs at Mesh.

 THE BENDERS ARMS AT 97 FOX A downtown hidden treasure, this friendly pub occupies what was once the ladies' waiting room at Rand Club (an exclusive members' club founded in 1887). While Rand Club is still a members-only space The Benders Arms is open to all. A convenient lunchtime pit stop while exploring one of Joburg’s most historically rich neighbourhoods.

 STANLEY BEER YARD While away a sunny Joburg afternoon with craft beers and vinyl music in this stylish beer garden at 44 Stanley, a converted 1930s industrial complex full of pretty olivetree filled courtyards and design stores. Blues, jazz and folk bands play on weekends and there’s a vinyl record fair on the first Sunday of the month.

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 KITCHENER'S By day it’s a quiet pub while by night DJs spin soul, funk and electro and Joburg’s cool kids and creative types hang out having the time of their lives. The small courtyard has a particularly Rastafarian aroma. Kitchener's retains much of its original Edwardian decor and takes its name from Lord Kitchener who stayed here in 1905 when the building was a hotel.

 THE HIDE OUT The budget backpacker’s bar of choice. On the ground floor of Maboneng’s cool backpackers hostel Curiocity, this is a great place to meet fellow travellers and like-minded individuals while hatching plans to travel the continent, and shooting some pool. The name is inspired by the building’s history as a secret printing press during the apartheid era.

 PERRIER-JOUËT CHAMPAGNE GARDEN An intimate and plush little venue inside the exclusive 54 on Bath Hotel, ideal for a glass of the best with someone special. As there are only a handful of tables service is polished yet personalised and with fine weather you can enjoy your Champagne on the terrace. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Living Room, Maboneng

Nightlife

Nightlife  THE TERRACE CIGAR AND WINE BAR From the Hyatt’s roomy courtyard oasis you’d never know you are just metres away from the hustle and bustle of central Rosebank. Birds tweet overhead and water trickles into tranquil infinity pools nestled under romantically-lit palm trees. The service is discreet yet attentive and the atmosphere serene making this a great venue for a quiet evening sundowner or informal drinks with clients .

 TONIC An unpretentious spot in the cute older suburb of Linden specialising in craft gins and tonics. Opt for a classic G&T with one of a number of local and imported craft gins or try the quirky cocktails like the D’Light, a combination of Musgrave pink gin, tonic and Turkish delight.

11 MAD GIANT Take a beer tasting tour at this downtown craft brewery housed in an impressively converted 19th-Century mining warehouse. Also home to Urbanologi restaurant serving up delicious small plates, there’s plenty of space to sit inside the brewery or head to the sunny beer garden.

12 PRE VIEW Perched high upon Westcliff ridge this tapas and cocktail bar at the Four Seasons, one of the city’s most luxurious hotels, epitomises understated chic. The view over Joburg’s immense human-made forest from the terrace is unforgettable, and fine dining hotspot View is a door away (see p.33).

13 WORKSHOP 55/LOUNGE 55 To the left is the casual fine-dining tapas restaurant Workshop 55 and to the right Lounge 55, whose decor takes its inspiration from the glamorous cocktail lounges of 1920s Miami. Both venues specialise in gin with fresh fruit and herb infusions and there’s a massive selection of unusual and rare craft labels to try (see p.33).

14 THE IMMIGRANT Adjoining the Once in Joburg ‘flashpackers’ hostel, this twotiered bar spills out onto Braamfontein’s busy Grove Square and swells with a fun-loving twenty-something party crowd on the weekends who are drawn in by the house beats.

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DIRECTORY LIVING ROOMQG-5, 20 Kruger St (the Main Change building 5th floor), Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 84 529 9006, livingroomjozi.co.za. Open 11:00–22:00, Wed 11:00-17:00, Sun 10:00–19:00. Admission R60 before 16:00, R80 thereafter, R50 when booked online. Tables can be booked online for R120.

4PM AT MESHQK‑12, 21 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5545, meshclub.co.za/4pmatmesh/. Open 16:00 till late. Closed Sun. THE BENDERS ARMS AT 97 FOXQD-5, 97 Fox St, City Centre, tel. +27 83 408 1455. Open 10:00 until late (depending on the crowd). Closed Sat, Sun. STANLEY BEER YARDQA‑1, 44 Stanley, Cnr Owl St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 10:00–18:00. Closed Mon. THE RADIUM BEERHALLQ282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, theradium.co.za.

Open 10:00-24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 11:00-17:00.

Admission from R100 on Saturday nights.

KITCHENER’SQC-3, Cnr Juta and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166, kitcheners.co.za. Open 10:00–04:00, Sun, Mon 10:00–01:00.

THE HIDE OUTQG‑5, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 72 880 9583, curiocitybackpackers.com. Open 07:00-22:00.

PERRIER-JOUËT CHAMPAGNE GARDENQL-11, 54 on Bath Boutique Hotel, 54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500, 54onbath.com. Open 18:00–22:00.

THE TERRACEQL‑11, Hyatt Regency Johannesburg, 191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, johannesburg.regency.hyatt.com. Open 12:00–21:00.

TONICQ32 7th St, Linden, tel. +27 87 238 4623, tonic. joburg. Open 17:00–23:00, Fri–Sat 12:00–24:00, Sun 12:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MAD GIANTQB‑5, 1Fox Precinct, 1 Fox St (parking at 14 Alexander St), Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 11 492 0901, madgiant.co.za. Open 12:00–22:00 (kitchen closes at 21:00), Sun 12:00–18:00.

PRE VIEWQFour Seasons Hotel The Westcliff, 67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6180, viewrestaurant.co.za. Open 18:00–22:00.

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Nightlife 15 THE BLIND TIGER Stepping through the door of this bar on Parkview’s quaint village-like high street recalls the glamour age of the 1920s in places like Chicago or Paris. Enjoy moreish cocktails inspired by Fitzgerald’s age-defining novel The Great Gatsby conjured up by a friendly barman who’ll remember you for next time. A classy place to stay out late. The owner's other bar Lenin's Vodka Bar, in Maboneng, is also worth a visit.

17 GILES PUB This friendly neighbourhood pub in leafy Craighall is popular for corporate after-work drinks, and with rugby fans, although the obliging staff will happily allow football followers to commandeer the TV screens too. The glass-fronted restaurant area can lack atmosphere when quiet, but the long bar facing the street always hums.

18 EB SOCIAL KITCHEN & BAR Heaven for book lovers, this place is housed inside one of Joburg’s biggest bookstores. The best sellers and recommended reads are temptingly displayed in the area leading up to the bar-restaurant where floor-to-ceiling windows offer splendid views of the suburbs. An excellent wine list presents plenty of local South African wines and there’s also a literary inspired-cocktail menu (see p.33).

19 AL LADO Look for the bouncer guarding an unmarked door and climb the stairs to find your way into this theatrical space that shares the same warehouse building as the popular Che Argentine Grill. There’s plenty of rum and cachaça on the menu and late on weekends the resident DJs create a club-like atmosphere.

20 THE GRILLHOUSE SANDTON In the heart of Sandton Central’s business district this upmarket steakhouse has an expansive bar and terrace with panoramic views. On Thursdays and Friday evenings the bar is packed with the local after-work crowd, who drop by to avoid the traffic and watch the spectacular sunsets.

21 THE MARABI CLUB Effusive reviews all remark on the atmosphere or (that South Africanism) “vibe” of The Marabi Club, a combination of live music, good food and slick service from jauntily dressed wait staff. The interiors conjure Joburg in the 20s and 30s. Arranged around a moodily-lit stage on which a jazz band plays, look for the enormous barrel-chested men in black outside a metal door on a city backstreet.

42 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Upstairs at Mesh, Rosebank

16 XAI XAI This Mozambican-themed dive bar has been around for decades and still attracts a faithful clientele who come for the cheap Mozambican lagers, sports screens and unpretentious atmosphere. A little rough around the edges, the rickety chairs and faded posters lend it a strangely appealing grungy charm that somehow reminds one of the spit and sawdust bars of the resort town it’s named after.

WORKSHOP 55/ LOUNGE 55QJ-12, 55 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 442 6252, workshop55.co.za.

Open 16:00–24:00. Closed Sun, Mon. THE IMMIGRANTQC-3, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 61 443 0084. Open 07:00–23:00, Fri, Sat 07:30–01:00.

BLIND TIGER CAFÉQ62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 76 030 4200, blindtiger.co.za. Open 15:00–24:00, Mon 15:00–22:00, Tue 15:00–23:00. Closed Sun. RRR. XAI XAIQ7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 6990, xaixaimelville.co.za. Open 09:00–01:00.

GILES PUB AND RESTAURANTQJ-11, 9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 442 4056. Open 12:00–24:00 (kitchen closes 22:30) Closed Sun. EB SOCIAL KITCHEN & BAR QK-10, Hyde Park Corner, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and William Nicol Dr, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 6039, socialkitchenandbar.co.za. Open 08:00–21:30, Sun until 15:00.

AL LADOQG-5, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0140. Open 11:00–02:00. Closed Mon, Tue. THE GRILLHOUSE SANDTONQL-9, 11 Alice Lane, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 6132, thegrillhouse. co.za/grillhouse-sandton. Open 11:00–22:00.

THE MARABI CLUBQF-4, 47 Sivewright Ave, New Doornfontein, Maboneng, tel. +27 10 591 2872, themarabiclub.com. Open 18:30–24:00, Sun 12:00–17:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife

81 de Korte Street Braamfontein Tel: +27 (0)11 339 66 45 E-mail: info@theorbit.co.za www.theorbit.co.za Image: Siphiwe Mhlambi

COMEDY & LIVE MUSIC DINNER, DRINKS AND JAZZ: THE ORBIT All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found both on stage and in the audience at this highly respected jazz club. A slick bistro greets you downstairs, while upstairs the bar and a stage surrounded by tables await – reservations for these are advised. As well as jazz gigs, The Orbit also hosts regular events such as the excellent monthly Science & Cocktails evening and the En Fuego salsa night with a live salsa band. On Fridays and Saturdays stay on and party at the all-vinyl DJ session (R50, or free if you come to a concert before). Check out the weekly concert schedule on The Orbit website.QC‑3, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, theorbit.co.za. Open 16:00–02:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets for concerts from R60. Students get 50% off with a valid student card.

PRE-RUGBY DRINKS: THE TROYEVILLE HOTEL Beloved by rugby fans, on match days at the nearby Ellis Park Stadium (now Emirates Airline Park) the place is packed with team colours. It is also known for its cultural events such as The Troyeville Book Club, which attracts the city’s lefties, artists and journalist crowd and live music nights.

A menu of tasty Portuguese food is complemented by a range of beers from Mozambique.QH-4, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Wilhelmina St), Troyeville, tel. +27 11 402 7709, troyevillehotel.co.za. Open 10:00–22:00 (or later).

Guarded parking at the rear entrance. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

BEERS AND COMEDY: THE BANNISTER HOTEL In the heart of Braamfontein’s party strip the Bannister Hotel’s breezy bar and bistro is a great place to sit and soak up the buzz of this most happening neighbourhood (try grab a bar stool at the counter overlooking the street). There’s also a full restaurant menu and a sushi bar and, unusually for Joburg, the kitchen stays open until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays. In the basement you’ll find the intimate Goliath Comedy Club where South Africa’s edgiest stand-up comedians perform four nights a week (tickets cost R80 and include a cider). See Goliath Comedy Club on Facebook for the lineup.QComedy club open Wed-Sat, gigs starts at 20:00. The Bannister Bistro is open 06:30–21:30, Thu 06:30–23:30, Fri, Sat 06:30–02:00.

CRAFT BEERS AND LIVE MUSIC: 1 FOX PRECINCT On weekends head to the cool regenerated 1 Fox Precinct, a neatly contained cluster of former warehouses which house a food hall-style market (open Fri, Sat, Sun), craft brewery, beer garden and live music club. Start out the evening with a beer tasting at the impressive Mad Giant craft brewery before moving on to the GoodLuck Bar, one of Joburg’s biggest live music venues, for a gig. You can expect anything from folk, rock, trance, afrobeat, hip hop or indie bands on the line-up so visit their Facebook page to see what’s on.QB‑5, 1 Fox Precinct, 14 Alexander St, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre, tel. +27 84 683 4413, goodluckbar.co.za.

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Nightlife NIGHTCLUBS

CLUB NIGHTS & PARTIES

The Orbit, Braamfontein

Joburg’s inner-city is never quiet on the weekends. For serious clubbing every Friday head over to And Club, where through an unremarkable doorway you’ll find one of Joburg’s longest-running techno, drum and bass club nights TOYTOY (iyp.me/139423v). Six blocks away, party on the rooftop of the 1950s-era One Eloff building, home of the monthly Feel Good Series (iyp. me/145069v, Entrance R100). With a diverse musical landscape including everything from hip hop and funk to reggae and R&B, this sunset party is a great place to mingle with local artists and musicians while enjoying some of the inner city’s finest rooftop views. In Braamfontein catch the best vinyl DJs sets at The Orbit’s weekly Vinyl Sessions (iyp.me/126865v) on Friday and Saturdays where each week a different DJ presents an eclectic mash up of genres as diverse as old school rock and classic reggae. If you want to stay out late, Braamfontein’s bars are your best bet with places like Kitchener’s, Great Dane (iyp.me/122507v) and Republic of 94 (iyp.me148827v) hosting late night DJ parties every weekend. In Maboneng, come rain or sunshine on the first Sunday of the month Joburg’s salsa fanatics head to salsa and kizomba afternoon party Rooftop Salsa.

Friendly regulars are always on hand to help newbies find their feet and the party stretches into the evening with live music and cocktails from the bar.

In Joburg’s northern suburbs clubs like Movida and Taboo attract a more mainstream crowd. Movida is a favourite of the expat community and those who favour chart hits with regular themed club nights. Taboo is a popular place to see and be seen with top local and international house DJs on the decks and a glamorously dressed, high rolling audience. Also in the northern suburbs look out for the Wednesday night parties at Sir James van der Merwe in Kramerville (a 15 minute drive from Sandton Central). Mainly used for private events, this gorgeous warehouse space with a panoramic Sandton view opens every Wednesday for a low key party with fun old school tunes and a great craft beer selection (iyp.me/126870v).

44 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

AND CLUB A gritty inner-city location hides one of the country’s lead­ ing house, techno and drum and bass clubs. A place for serious clubbers, inside the decor is minimalist with moody lighting, a bar, dance floor and a courtyard chill space.

Take note there is a strict ‘phone off, party on’. policy. Look out for regular house and techno night TOYTOY and the monthly Tonght party with live performers.QB‑4, 39a Gwi Gwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, andclub.co.za. Open Thu-Sat 21:00–04:00.

BABYLON – THE BAR Strange location for a pumping gay club, but then there’s not much you can’t find at a Joburg shopping mall. Dark lighting, pounding trance music and sexy barmen grinding on the bar top in nothing but their Y-fronts are order of the day. Gays, straights and lesbians are all welcome.

Cover charge from R30. There’s also a camp cabaret bar Beefcakes next door.QL‑11, Illovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel. +27 73 023 1103, babylonthebar.com. Open 20:00–late. Closed Mon, Tue. KONG Upscale nightclub “catering to the elite and sexy”. If that sounds like you then you’ll fit in well amongst the city’s rich and beautiful set. Friday is usually urban night (hip hop, RnB) and on Saturdays it’s house, dance and electro.QK-12, Cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Tyrwhitt Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 447 0993, kongsa.co.za. Open Fri–Sat 21:00-05:00.

MOVIDA In the middle of Joburg’s northern suburbia, this nightclub is one of Sandton’s most popular boasting three bars and a VIP lounge. The music is fun and danceable mainstream pop and house, the dress code is smart (so leave your slops at home) and there are regular themed club nights. With a reputation as a hotspot for Joburg’s expat community, you’ll usually find somebody here who speaks your language.Q3 Achter Rd, Paulshof, tel. +27 11 234 8000, movida.co.za. Open Fri, Sat from 21:00 till late.

TABOO Swanky Sandton nightclub which fills with the pumping sounds of top local and international DJs. Settle in on the chic deck or plush lounge areas to take a breather and enjoy your cocktail. Beware the velvet rope, a smart dress code applies.QM-8, 24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2200, taboo. co.za. Open Fri, Sat 22:00–04:00.

THE TENNIS CLUB What was once the Ellis Park Tennis Club has been transformed into a unique venue and 'social club' hosting offthe-wall, underground parties and other events. There’s no set schedule so check their Facebook page for the latest on any upcoming club nights.QG/H-3, Cnr Bertrams St and Miller St, Bertrams, facebook.com/thetennisclubjhb. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sunset at Constitution Hill, Braamfontein

Sightseeing

TOP 10 ESSENTIAL SIGHTS While Joburg may not have a majestic mountain or picturesque beaches to admire, what it lacks in natural splendour it more than makes up for with its rich history, burgeoning art scene and colourful street life. Whether you have only one day or several, here’s our pick of ten essential sightseeing experiences.

 RIDE THE RED BUS

 LEARN ABOUT APARTHEID HISTORY

 BOOK AN INNER-CITY WALKING TOUR

To get an in-depth view of South Africa’s complex history visit the extensive Apartheid Museum or take a tour of Constitution Hill, the site of a former prison and home to the impressive Constitutional Court. Other must-visit places that offer profound historical insights include Liliesleaf (once the headquarters of the underground resistance) and Sophiatown The Mix that tells the heartbreaking story of the forced removals from this suburb in 1955.

 TRACE YOUR ORIGINS

Visit Maropeng visitors’ centre in the Cradle of Humankind to learn about the evolution of humankind and take a tour of the nearby Sterkfontein Caves where the remains of world-famous hominids Mrs Ples and Little Foot were found. The excellent Origins Centre in Braamfontein celebrates the 80,000-year history of humanity.

 SEE THE LANDMARK CONSTITUTION HILL

The buildings of the national heritage landmark Constitution Hill in Braamfontein reveal the horrors of some of the darkest hours of 20th Century South Africa, while also showcasing the bright, optimistic future of the country enshrined in the modern Constitutional Court.

 GOLD RUSH HISTORY

Visit the Ditsong Museum of Military History to learn about the Anglo-Boer Wars and more modern conflicts and to see engaging displays of vintage military paraphernalia.

See how Joburg’s colonial middle-classes lived at the Victorian Lindfield House museum or stroll through downtown’s historic Main Street Mining District among the relics of Joburg’s early mining heritage (see p. 38). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

If you have limited time and don’t have a car the best way to get around and see the sights is on the City Sightseeing Bus, whose two routes stop at all the major heritage landmarks. There’s also a link to the two-hour Sowetoo mini-bus tour of Soweto.

Taking a guided walking tour is the best way to encounter the city for the first time and experience unique aspects of local history and culture that might otherwise be hidden from view. Choose from some of our favourite Joburg walking experiences (see p. 48).

 ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS Take a leisurely stroll through one of Joburg’s parks or head out of the city for an early morning hike through one of Gauteng’s many nature reserves.

 SEE THE WRITING ON THE WALLS One of the city’s most enlivening aspects is its flourishing community of local and visiting international graffiti and street artists whose murals brighten up walls everywhere.

Maboneng, Newtown and recently the suburb of Westdene are the best places to catch up with the latest works.

 VISIT AN ART GALLERY Joburg has an exciting art scene and the city is blessed with several top contemporary art galleries, all of which are free to visit. Galleries are concentrated in Rosebank and Braamfontein, and across town in Maboneng and around Ellis Park. When in Rosebank make sure to visit Keyes Art Mile and Art It Is.

 SPEND TIME IN SOWETO With a rich history, vibrant street life and plenty of fun experiences on offer, the township of Soweto has become one of the country’s top tourist attractions. Take a tour with a local guide or follow the tourist trail along famous Vilakazi Street.

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Sightseeing

Women's Gaol, Constitution Hill

MUSEUMS

CONSTITUTION HILL One of Joburg’s most important heritage sites, Constitution Hill is an historical treasure in the heart of the city.

A living museum that tells the story of South Africa’s journey to democracy, it is also home to the country’s Constitutional Court, which endorses the rights of all South African citizens.

The Constitution Hill complex is split into four parts: the Old Fort, the Women’s Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court. Extensive exhibitions reveal shocking details about the brutality of the apartheid prison system and stories of the daily struggle for dignity are told through the eyes of the many ordinary and notable people, such as Gandhi and Nelson Mandela, who passed through this place.

The Old Fort at the centre of the complex was built in 1893 and following the end of the Anglo-Boer Wars became a jail for white prisoners. One notable exception is Nelson Mandela who was briefly imprisoned here when he was arrested in 1962. His cell now forms the Mandela Cell exhibition. Next door is the Women’s Gaol built in 1909 and at the centre of Constitution Hill is the notorious Number 4 prison block. Not for the faint-hearted, wandering its bleak yards and dank cells is at times a harrowing experience.

The inspiring court building represents the achievement of democracy post-1994 and also has a fantastic contemporary art collection. Special Art and Justice tours of the building can be arranged or you can visit independently and even watch court proceedings taking place (the court is always open to the public when in session).

QB-2, cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission to museum areas R65, kids, students R30, pensioners R45 (includes optional onehour guided tour), admission plus two-hour guided tour R85, kids, students R55, pensioners R60. Discounts available for groups and visitors using the City Sightseeing red bus. Book online at webtickets.co.za.

46 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

APARTHEID MUSEUM An extraordinary museum that brings to life the horrors of apartheid: from the petty cruelties inflicted on the everyday lives of black South Africans to state repression and violence. The story of South Africa’s struggle for democracy is compellingly told with powerful displays and interactive elements, and through everyday heroes as well as historical leaders. We recommend you give yourself a few hours to take it all in.QCnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City), tel. +27 11 309 4700, apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:00–17:00. Admission R85, kids, pensioners and students R75. Not suitable for kids under 12. K CHANCELLOR HOUSE This smart little open-air museum was once the offices of the city’s first black law firm – Mandela and Tambo Attorneys – a thriving practice from 1952 to 1956 that fought apart­heid’s restrictions. Nearby is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanelli’s sculpture of a young Nelson Mandela. Walk one block west to visit 1 Fox Precinct, home of 1 Fox Market Shed and Mad Giant brewery.QC‑5, Cnr Fox and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.

DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY Two historic hangars house a variety of thematic displays that cover key events in South African military history such as the Anglo-Zulu War and the Anglo-Boer wars, illustrated by an impressive range of military vehicles, uniforms and weapon­r y.Q22 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 10 001 3515, ditsong.org.za. Open 09:00–16:30. Admission R45, kids R35, pensioners R25. ­ ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM Now known as Emirates Airline Park, Ellis Park stadium became a national symbol when former president Nelson Mandela supported the national rugby team by wearing a Springbok jersey here during the 1995 World Cup Final between the Springboks and the All Blacks. This quirky rugby museum contains the biggest collection of South African rugby memorabilia. Fans can also book a behind-thescenes tour of the stadium.QG‑3, Emirates Airline Park (formerly Ellis Park Stadium), 44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 61 400 4883 or +27 11 402 2960, ellispark.co.za.

Open 10:00–15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Call in advance to book a visit. Admission R50, kids R20.

JAMES HALL MUSEUM OF TRANSPORT At Africa’s largest transport museum, the eclectic col­ lection of historic vehicles includes vintage cars, motor­ bikes, horse-drawn wagons, trams, fire engines and even steam-powered tractors. Look out for Joule, the first South African designed electric car. The museum is a stop on the City Sightseeing red bus route.QPioneers’ Park, Rosettenville Rd, La Rochelle, tel. +27 11 435 9718, jhmt. org.za. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat, Sun 09:00–12:00, 13:00– 16:30. Closed Mon. Admission is free. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing LILIESLEAF In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of the ANC and where the plans for an armed struggle against apartheid were formulated. Engrossing displays provide an in-depth look at the lives of the leaders who gathered here and the creative ways in which they sought to evade the authorities. This contemporary museum is full of fascinating insights – plan for a minimum twohour visit.Q7 George Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, liliesleaf.co.za. Open 08:30–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–16:00.

Admission R110 (includes a guided tour), kids R50, pensioners R40, students R60, kids under 7 free. ­K­ LINDFIELD HOUSE This unique monument to Victorian and Edwardian life is presided over by Katherine Love, who has spent a lifetime collecting objects from her favourite era. Dressed in Victo­ rian garb Love guides you through 18 lavishly decorated rooms that conjure the everyday life of that time. A visit can also be combined with High Tea served on the front terrace of the house overlooking the garden.Q72 Richmond Ave, Auckland Park, tel. +27 11 726 2932. By appointment only. Tours from R50, kids, pensioners R30.

High Tea R150 (booking essential).

SATYAGRAHA HOUSE From 1908-1909 Gandhi lived here with his friend Hermann Kallenbach, a German-Jewish architect, who designed the house. He lived a simple meditative life, developing and promoting his philosophy of satyagraha (passive resistance and non-violent civil disobedience).

Their home is now a beautiful guesthouse and museum that offers visitors a contemplative experience.Q15 Pine Rd, Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, satyagrahahouse. com. Open 10:00–16:00. Admission free for South African citizens, R70 non-South African citizens. ­K SOPHIATOWN THE MIX In 1955 the apartheid government bulldozed the vibrant multi-racial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its nonwhite residents to move to distant new townships. The Mix is a modern community centre incorporating the house museum of the 1940s ANC president, the late Dr A.B. Xuma.

It is dedicated to preserving the memory of old Sophiatown and the tragedy of the forced removals. Walking tour of the suburb led by residents of old Sophiatown are available with prior booking..Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 83 550 7130/+27 11 477 3490, sophiatownthemix. com. Open 09:00–16:30. Closed Sun. Admission R60, Sof’town Urban Experience walking tour R185.

MainStreetWalks Picnics in the Sky, Carlton Centre. Photo: Curiocity Hostel

ORIGINS CENTRE This must-see museum at the University of the Witwatersrand explores the history of modern hu­mans, tracing humanity's emergence along an 80,000-year path to its African source. Compelling exhibits include extensive collections of rock art and paleoanthropological and archeologi­ cal materials, including ancient tools and spiritual artefacts.

QB‑3, Cnr Yale Rd and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, wits. ac.za/origins. Open 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. Admission R80, learners R45, students and kids under 12 R40. K­

SAB WORLD OF BEER A light-hearted and multi-sensory experience tracing the history of beer from ancient Egypt to the present day. Highlights include a crisp cold one enjoyed in a replica 19th Century South African pub. Tours last 80 mins and leave every half hour. Over-18s only.QC-5, 15 Helen Joseph St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 836 4900. Open 10:00–18:00 (last tour 17:00, last beer tasting 15:00), Sun, Mon 10:00–16:00.

Admission R115, kids R40, students and pensioners R105.

Beer tasting R105, tour and beer tasting package R180.

facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

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TOURS With plenty to see – from historic townships to graffitied streets and landmark architecture – we urge you to take a tour. History buffs should check out Joburg Heritage Foundation's quarterly programme (joburgheritage.co.za) and for ideas on how to experience Soweto, turn to page 52.

BUVHI TOURS Jeff Mulaudzi, the charming founder of Buvhi Tours (formerly Alexandra Bicycle Tours) meets visitors at Marlboro Gautrain station for two- or four-hour cycling tours around Alexandra, the oldest Joburg township. Stops include historic sites, shebeens, and cafés where you can try typical ‘ikasi’ (a reference to what were once known as 'native locations') food and meet the locals.QTel. +27 71 279 3654, alexandratours.co.za. Tours from R450.

CITY SKATE TOURS This is the brainchild of two 'skater boys' who conceptualised the tour after showing friends around the inner-city this way. A self-taught tour guide, co-founder Ayanda Mnyandu fills the tour with interesting anecdotes about the early history of Joburg. The tour lasts three hours and includes a skateboard lesson. Skateboards are provided (tours are for persons aged 18-plus only). Bring a backpack and pack a bottle of water.QG-5, Curiocity Hostel, 302 Fox St, cnr Auret St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 79 839 8833. Tours from R300.

CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS This open‑top, hop‑on hop‑off bus has two routes, accompanied by an insightful audio guide. The Red Bus route starts at Constitution Hill and has 11 stops that include Carlton Centre, Origins Centre and the Apartheid Museum from where you can join a whistle‑stop two‑hour minibus tour of Soweto. The green route starts from The Zone@Rosebank and ends at Constitution Hill. The first bus leaves Rosebank at 09:00, last bus at 15:10. Buses Mon–Fri 48 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

City Skate Tours

Sightseeing

every 40 mins. Sat, Sun, every 30 mins.QTel. +27 86 173 3287, citysightseeing.co.za. Tickets from R190 (R180 online). Soweto combo ticket from R470 (R430 online).

DLALA NJE This innovative company offers memorable walking experiences of the infamous inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturdays) and Yeoville (Sundays). You’ll get aweinspiring views from the top of Hillbrow’s Ponte building where both tours start, and on the Yeoville walk there is a chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine.

QF‑2, Ponte City Apartments, entrance off Joe Slovo Dr (turn off at Abel Rd and Lily Ave), Berea, tel. +27 11 402 2373, dlalanje.org. Open 09:00–18:00. Tours from R350.

JOBURG FREE WALKING TOURS Tours leave from Park Station's Gautrain concourse (look for the guide with a green umbrella) and offer an easy introduction to the city's streets. Choose from the 100-minute City Centre walk (daily at 10:30 and 13:00) or 90-minute Braamfontein walk (daily at 15:30). Pay by tipping your guide what you feel the tour is worth.QD-3, Park Station Gautrain, City Centre, tel. +27 73 919 3355, nielsentours.co.za.

MAINSTREETWALKS Bheki Dube’s dynamic Maboneng-based tour company will lead you to discover the inner-city’s history, art, architecture, bars and myriad communities on foot or by bike.

Tours take in heritage landmarks as well as more unu­sual places like Joburg’s Ethiopian Quarter and the KwaMaiMai traditional healers' market. MainStreetWalks also organise Soweto tours, and guided underground pub crawls around Maboneng. Look out for the Picnics in the Sky Tour every Sunday at lunchtime and the East City Cycle Tour every Sat and Sun from 15:00.QG‑5, Curiocity Hostel, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 614 0163/+27 11 027 5257, mainstreetwalks.co.za. Tours from R250. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing PAST EXPERIENCES Known for a specialised focus on graffiti these well-researched offbeat walking tours take in the inner city, its communities, history and street art. Look out for their Weekend Budget Tours (from R160 per person) co-hosted by local graffiti artists.QTel. +27 83 701 3046, pastexperiences.co.za.

ROVING BANTU TOURS Activist and former political exile Sifiso Ntuli shares his unique perspective on contemporary South Africa and focuses on the history, culture and food of lesser known neighbourhoods such as Fietas and Brixton.Q125 Caroline St, Brixton, tel. +27 72 223 2648. Tours from R250.

Art It Is Gallery, Parkwood

SOF’TOWN URBAN EXPERIENCE This unique walking tour from Sophiatown The Mix (see Museums) is led by the dapper Victor Mokhine, who experienced the 1955 Forced Removals. It celebrates the heritage of old Sophiatown, once a glorious beacon of jazz and literary culture in Joburg. ​Tours last two to three hours and cost R185 per person. Use our discount code JIYP to get 10% off the cost.Q73 Toby St, Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673 1271/+27 83 550 7130, sophiatownthemix.com.

ART CITY Joburg’s contemporary art scene is booming, with dozens of independent art galleries promoting the diverse works of local and global artists. Broadly speaking, the city’s art scene is centred around Rosebank, Braamfontein and the eastern downtown districts of Maboneng and Ellis Park.

Furthermore the inner city’s streets are peppered with a wealth of eye-catching public artworks, while graffiti artists from South Africa and abroad continue to enliven public spaces with colourful murals. Here we have given you just a taste of what to see in Rosebank. See our full neighbourhood art guide at iyp.me/73350f.

ROSEBANK Start your art experience just a 10-minute walk from the Rosebank Gautrain Station at the architectural landmark Circa Gallery and its sister gallery Everard Read, both showcasing contemporary South African art. Next door Circa is Keyes Art Mile’s Trumpet building, housing exclusive design boutiques, cafés and SMAC Gallery as well as the cocktail bar 4PM at Mesh, which is decorated with an everchanging display of local contemporary art.

Two blocks south at the corner of Bolton Road and Jan Smuts Avenue is the start of Art Gallery Row. The outstanding Goodman Gallery promotes the work of some of Africa and South Africa’s premier artists. A few doors up is fine art gallery Lizamore & Associates while across Jan Smuts Avenue pop in to Gallery 2 and Joburg’s best-known printmakers David Krut Projects.

A short walk from Goodman Gallery down suburban Chester Road in Parkwood is Art It Is, a knockout triplevolume contemporary space that is focused on ‘curating South Africa’s undiscovered art’. With a wide range of prices, and mediums, this is the place to start your collection. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

GALLERY DIRECTORY ART IT ISQJ-12, 11 Chester Rd, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 9176, artitis.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00– 14:00. Closed Sun. CIRCA GALLERY/EVERARD READQK-12, 6 Jellicoe Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, circagallery.co.za.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun. DAVID KRUT PROJECTSQK-12, 142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0627, davidkrut.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. GALLERY2QK-12, 140 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0155, gallery2.co.za. Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 10:00–15:00. Mon, Sun by appointment only.

GALLERY MOMOQK‑12, 52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27 11 327 3247, gallerymomo.com. Open 09:00– 18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. GOODMAN GALLERYQK-12, 163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 788 1113, goodman-gallery.com.

Open 09:30–17:30, Sat 09:30–16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. LIZAMORE & ASSOCIATESQK-12, 155 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 880 8802, lizamore.co.za.

Open 10:00-17:00, Sat 10:00-15:00. Closed Sun, Mon. SMAC GALLERYQK-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 10 594 5400, smacgallery.com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–15:00. Closed Sun. February 2018 – April 2018

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Sport & outdoors In this most treed of cities with year-round sunshine there is no shortage of scenic spaces for enjoying lazy picnics and long walks. The summer months are also the time to visit Joburg’s many open-air public pools. Alternatively, take a day trip to one of Gauteng’s numerous nature reserves.

PARKS & NATURE RESERVES JOHANNESBURG BOTANICAL GARDENS This green oasis has extensive parkland for long walks and is fa­voured by cyclists and dog walkers. On weekends you'll spot wedding parties in the terraced rose garden.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782 7064. Open 06:00–18:00.

WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS This well-maintained park has stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching and even a waterfall. There are various hiking routes and large picnic lawns (40 minutes from Sandton).QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, sanbi.org/gardens. Open 08:00–17:00. Admission R45.

ZOO LAKE Picnic, feed the ducks or hire a rowboat. There are basketball courts, a walking track, a kid’s play area and the Africanthemed restaurant Moyo. Popular with walk­ers and runners, Zoo Lake is best visited during the week.QCnr Jan Smuts Ave and Westwold St, Parkview, tel. +27 11 483 1017.

Beat the heat by visiting one these public pools. Joburg's outdoor public pools usually stay open until March 31.

ELLIS PARK SWIMMING POOL Serious swimmers will enjoy this landmark pool where Olympians and Iron Man competitors train. There’s also a kiddies pool, plus plenty of sun lounging space. For more Ellis park attractions see page 39.QG-3, Cnr North Ln and Erin St, Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5565. Open 07:0017:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-17:00. Admission R11, kids R6.

LINDEN POOL A half Olympic-sized heated indoor pool popular with families and serious swimmers. There is also a small (unheated) baby pool outside, and facilities for disabled swimmers.QCnr 11th St and 4th Ave, Linden. Open 06:00-18:45, Sat 07:00-17:45, Sun, public holidays 08:3017:45. Admission R12, kids R9.

ZOO LAKE SWIMMING POOL A real gem, these historic swimming baths next to Zoo Lake offer plenty of picnic areas and a kids splash pool. A pool of 30m2, lanes are not demarcated so choose your lap direction and stick with it.QCnr Prince of Wales and Lower Park Drv, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 646 8495. Open 10:00–17:45. Admission R9, kids R6.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES ACROBRANCH Test your skills and your mettle by ziplining from tree to tree across a rugged wooded area of Melrose. There are five courses to choose from, plus the Big Zip Line. From pre-schoolers to adults there's no shortage of activities.

QM-12, Melrose St Ext, James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel. +27 86 999 0369, acrobranch.co.za. Open 09:00-17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Also at Huddle Park. Prices from R110 for kids courses, from R160 for teenagers and adult courses.

Linden Public Pool . Photo: Heather Mason

THE WILDS This magnificent historic park with its stone-cut paths and water features, and awe-inspiring city views, has recently been revived as a public space by the efforts of artist James Delaney and his team of assistants and volunteers.

Delaney's artworks, 67 steel laser-cut owls placed in a yellowwood grove to mark Mandela Day 2017 (July 18), were the catalyst for rallying the city to restore the park to a place of pride. Since then there are almost monthly events to tend to the space. A little free library marks the entrance (bring a book) and you'll spot other artists' works inspired

by Delaney's efforts. QG/H‑2, Houghton Drive, Houghton Estate. See Facebook.com/Friends of the Wilds.

SWIMMING POOLS

50 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Sport & outdoors

BILL HARROP’S ORIGINAL BALLOON SAFARIS One of the most genteel ways to travel. Treat yourself to a sunrise hot air balloon ride at 2100ft above the Magaliesburg Valley. On a clear day you’ll float about with a view to Joburg’s city centre, the glistening Hartbeespoort waterways and the Cradle of Humankind. The take-off site is a 60-minute drive from Johannesburg, and departure time is a strict 6:00 in optimal wind conditions. Flights last for a blissful hour. A gentle landing will be accompanied

by Champagne and a sumptuous breakfast that includes Bill's whisky oats. You’ll be ready to tackle the day by 09:30, with a Citation declaring you an intrepid aeronaut explorer.

QSkeerpoort (off the R560), Magaliesburg, tel. +27 11 705 3201, balloon.co.za. From R2 400 p.p. for 60 mins.

LION AND SAFARI PARK A popular family day out, especially for those short on time to get out to a Big Five safari park. This 600-hectare wilderness reserve set in the gently rolling hills of the Cradle of Humankind has plenty of big plains game including giraffes, zebras and various antelopes as well as a predators area to see lions, hyenas and wild dogs. Opt for a self-drive or book a guided safari. At the park's entrance is a large visitor centre (free to enter) with a restaurant that offers a view over the park where you can regularly see wildebeest grazing. It also has a massive gift shop complex.QR512 (Pelindaba Rd), Lanseria, Broederstroom, tel. +27 87 150 0100, lionandsafaripark.com. Open 08:00-20:00. Self drive from R195, safari tours from R330, kids under 12 free.

HENNOPS HIKING TRAIL Approximately one hour’s drive north of central Sandton, choose from three well-maintained circular trails winding through the Magaliesberg mountains foothills. There’s an easy 2km walk, the 6km Zebra route (allow 2 hours) and more challenging 11.3km Krokodilberg Route (plan for 4-5 hours). Interesting features include an old-fashioned cablecar on a pulley crossing the river (or detour to use the suspension bridge) and the crumbling remains of structures from the Anglo-Boer wars. With little shade and no access to drinking water en route come prepared and start as early as possible.QTrail entrance off the R511 (10km south of R105 junction), tel. +27 82 825 9205, hennopstrails.co.za.

Admission R70, last entrance 12:00.

MAROPENG AND THE STERKFONTEIN CAVES Maropeng is the impressive visitors’ centre for the Cradle of Humankind, a UNESCO-protected World Heritage site, from where humanity emerged. Journey into humankind’s evolution led by interactive exhibitions that outline the universe's history from the Big Bang to the present day.

The Sterkfontein Caves (a short drive away) are where the remains of world-famous hominids were discovered. A 45-minute guided cave tour leaves eve­r y half-hour.QR400, off the R563 to Hekpoort (40 minutes from Sandton), tel. +27 14 577 9000, maropeng.co.za. Visitor’s centre open 09:00–17:00. Closed Mon. Admission R120. Sterkfontein Caves open 09:00–17:00. Admission R165. Combo ticket R190. Discounts for kids, students, pensioners.

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February 2018 – April 2018

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Soweto Cool. Photo: Tour Soweto

Sightseeing: Soweto

In 1976 the name Soweto (first used in 1963 to describe the South West Townships created to keep black South Africans away from white Joburg) became globally synonymous with the anti-apartheid struggle as youth rose up against inferior education. But Soweto’s history goes back a lot further to the 1930s when black workers who had flocked to the goldfields since 1886 in search of work were housed here. Today Soweto is home to around 1.5 million people and its neighbourhoods range from Kliptown’s informal shacklands to the mansions of Diepkloof Extension, also known as Diepkloof Expensive.

Vilakazi Street is the heart of tourist Soweto. More like a city, this ‘township’ has worthwhile historical sites, a vibrant contemporary social scene and exciting new lifestyle attractions.

GETTING THERE The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of consistent signage and dizzying house numbers can be bewildering and may not be entirely GPS-friendly, but if you do plan to drive yourself around Soweto the main tourist destinations are well signposted. To make the most of a first-time visit we recommend you take a tour with a local guide.

WHERE TO STAY LEBO’S SOWETO BACKPACKERS This backpackers hostel has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch your tent, plus a kitchen for selfcatering, or enjoy a home-cooked meal before retreating to the lively beach-style bar. Other attractions include excellent bicycle, walking and tuk-tuk tours, fireside-storytelling evenings and gigs. Located in a shady spot in the small park in front of the Backpackers is Lebo’s outdoor restaurant for delicious bunny chows made with fresh bread and homemade curries cooked over an open fire in a traditional African potjie (cast-iron pot).Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, sowetobackpackers.com.

52 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE This 4-star hotel, with strong local community ties, looks onto Kliptown’s historic Walter Sisulu Square of Dedication where the Freedom Charter was signed in 1955. End your day here with a Kliptini cocktail at the elegant Jazz Maniacs restaurant.

QCnr Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown, Soweto, tel. +27 11 527 7300, sowetohotel.co.za.

TOURS By taking a tour with a local guide you’ll get to go off-thebeaten path and experience ‘ikasi’ life and culture. City-based MainStreetWalks offer excellent Soweto tours that include a transfer from their base at the Curiocity Hostel in Maboneng and the City Sightseeing bus offers a whistle-stop tour of Soweto by mini-bus starting from the Apartheid Museum stop (Soweto tour costs extra). See page 49 for details.

LEBO’S SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS Local tourism pioneer Lebo Malepa’s bicycle tours are a mustdo (a tuk-tuk tour will suit the less athletic). Choose from two-hour, half-day or full-day tours, taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and local delicacies. Tours start and end at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers where you can kick back in the adjoining park and enjoy a homemade lunch. Tours can be customised and transfers from Joburg hotels can be arranged. Overnight guests get discounted tour rates.QFor address see opposite, tel. +27 11 936 3444 or +27 74 360 9085, sowetobackpackers.com.

Bicycle tours from R470, tuk-tuk tours from R430.

BAY OF GRACE The dynamic Raymond Rampolokeng offers bird-watching tours in the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam. An avid conservationist Rampolokeng is Soweto’s first trained birding guide. A particular tour highlight is the hike up Enoch Sontonga koppie, offering spectacular johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing: Soweto views of Soweto. There is also the option to join other birding tours in Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, Klipriviersberg and the Cradle of Humankind. Tours are on foot or by bike.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, bit.ly/2iAD902. Tours from R150–R450.

TKD TOURS Charming local guide Ntokozo (aka TK) Dube’s walking tours of Kliptown, an impoverished neighbourhood with a rich history, take in traditional medicine stalls, historic architecture, community gardens, graffiti and street food. TK can also connect visitors to local NGOs for volunteer work.

QTel. +27 73 133 5234 or mail tktours.dube13@gmail. com. Tours from R250.

TOUR SOWETO Led by former photojournalist Ilan Ossendryver you’ll experience Soweto by getting an opportunity to meet local community members and even celebrate birthdays and special occasions with the children of Kliptown. His warmth and good humour is infectious and a bonus of these tours is that he will guide your photography plus share a large file of photographs shot by him on the day after the trip.

Expect to be led down alleyways and paths not usually visited by tourists.QTel. +27 72 368 9344, toursoweto. com, or mail ilan@ic-creations.com. Tours cost R1800 for one or two people, thereafter R750 per extra person (maximum six per group), plus a weekend surcharge of R450 per group. Airport pick-ups cost R450. Kids under 10 free.

The events of 1976 shook the world and are a vital part of Soweto's history. On June 16, 1976, hundreds of school pupils took to the streets to protest against the poor standard of education in black (Bantu) schools and in particular new laws governing that all teaching be conducted in Afrikaans instead of English. The peaceful protest ended in bloodshed when the apartheid police opened fire on the unarmed students and ensuing riots echoed across the whole country. June 16 is now commemorated as the Youth Day public holiday.

JUNE 16 MEMORIAL ACRE This imaginative outdoor memorial, opened in 2015, is the start of the ‘June 16 Trail’. The story of the protest is told with a timeline in pictures and words accompanied by photographs and exceptional murals depicting the scenes of the fateful day. Among the many public artworks and memorials is a statue representing a key leader of the protests, Tsietsi Mashinini, who was a pupil at the Morris Isaacson High School. In the aftermath of the protests the young Mashinini was forced to flee the country and sadly died in exile before apartheid was finally ended in South Africa.QCnr Pula Street and Mputhi St (opposite Morris Isaacson High School), White City, Jabavu. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL & MUSEUM This extensive museum is unquestionably Soweto’s best.

Startling photographs, personal testimonies, video and informative texts provide an in-depth examination of the events leading up to the 1976 Soweto uprising, and in particular the day of June 16. In front of the museum is a memorial to the 12-year-old Hector Pieterson, one of the first children killed by the police. Photographer Sam Nzima’s image of Pieterson’s body being carried by an older high school student became one of the most iconic images of the era, graphically highlighting to the world the senseless cruelty and brutality of the apartheid state.

Note no cameras are allowed in the museum. Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Admission R30, kids (6–12 years) R5, or 13 years and above, R10.

June 16 Memorial Acre

JUNE 16 TRAIL

February 2018 – April 2018

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Sightseeing: Soweto VILAKAZI STREET Soweto's most famous street lays claim to two Nobel prizewinners: Nelson Mandela (who lived here with his wife Winnie in the late 1950s to early 1960s) and Rev. Desmond Tutu, who still divides his time between his official Cape Town residence and the modest house on the corner of Bacela Street. Vibrant Vilakazi Street is lined with busy restaurants and bars serving everything from traditional township cuisine to contemporary African dishes, plus lots of craft stalls and small shops. For many tourists the main stop is the small Mandela House Museum (8115 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 936 7754, mandelahouse.com. Open 09:00–16:45.

Entrance R60, kids R20). At the top of Vilakazi Street don’t miss The Box Shop, an eye-catching cube of shipping containers that houses a fashion boutique and Kofi, Soweto’s first coffee roasters (7166 Vilakazi St, tel. +27 11 048 9900, theboxshop.co.za. 09:30–19:30, Fri-Sun 09:30–20:30).

KLIPTOWN Kliptown is most famous as the location for the 1955 Congress of the People. In June 1955 representatives of all South African racial and ethnic groups gathered in the centre of Kliptown to draw up the Freedom Charter, which laid out the principles for a country in which all South Africans regardless of colour, race, gender or belief would be entitled to equal rights. This document now forms the basis for South Africa’s modern democratic constitution. The small but compelling Kliptown Museum which overlooks Walter Sisulu Square tells the remarkable story of the Freedom Charter and the 1955 Congress of the People and details the increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced at the time (tel +27 11 945 2200. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free).

Photo: Ilan ossendryver Tour Soweto

NEIGHBOURHOODS TO VISIT

OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS SOWETO EQUESTRIAN CENTRE Founded by Enos Mafokate, South Africa’s first black show jumper, this equestrian centre operates as a non-profit riding school working with underprivileged children and the disabled. Q1679 Vundla Dr, Moroka, Soweto, tel. +27 11 071 1273, sowetoequestrian.co.za.

ORLANDO TOWERS These two huge colourful cooling towers are Soweto’s most recognisable landmark and a magnet for thrill-seekers. Book a bungee jump or SCAD fall from the top, and follow it up with shisa nyama and beer at Chaf Pozi restaurant and beer garden.QCnr Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Sts, Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 71 674 4343, orlandotowers.co.za. Open Thu–Sun 12:00–17:00, public holidays 10:00–18:00.

SOWETO MAP

54 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

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Craft from across the contitnent at Art Africa, Parkview

Shopping

COOL AND QUIRKY STORES ART AFRICA A treasure trove for South African arts and crafts gifts and household accessories made from beads and recycled products. Art Africa stocks everything from jewellery to fabrics, homeware to furniture, along with extraordinary ceramics, lighting and other handmade goods from all over the African continent. Perfect for souvenir shopping.

Q62 Tyrone Ave, Parkview, tel. +27 11 486 2052. Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun 09:00–14:00.

BLACK COFFEE AND LOVE JOZI Jacques van Watt’s fashion label Black Coffe combines innovative design thinking with meticulous construction and attention to detail. The store shares space with Love Jozi, a cult homegrown T-shirt and homeware accessories brand that mixes urban fashion with social consciousness, referencing iconic Joburg landmarks.QA-1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 9148, blackcoffee.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–16:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–14:00.

HELLO AFRICA MARKETPLACE This bright and welcoming store in Maboneng sells unique handcrafted gifts made by artisans from across the continent, including hand-painted ceramics, gorgeous homeware (we particularly love the Masai cloth cushions), leather handbags, shawls and kimonos made from local African fabrics, jewellery and accessories.QF/G-5, Arts On Main, 264 Fox Street, Maboneng, tel. +27 83 245 1040,helloafricamarketplace.com. Open 10:00–16:00.

KIM SACKS GALLERY Danish-trained ceramist Kim Sacks stocks collectable ceramic pieces, produced through artistic collaborations. Her Moorish-styled gallery is conveniently located along Parkfacebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

wood’s Art Gallery Row. Here you’ll also find museum-quality traditional and contemporary handmade objects.Q153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 5804, kimsacks. com. Open 09:00–17:30, Sat 10:00–17:00. Closed Sun. MAXHOSA BY LADUMA Featured in Italian Vogue, sold at Paris’s BHV/Marais department store and mentioned by Beyoncé, this South African designed knitwear brand is making waves globally.

Founder Laduma Ngxokolo is inspired by manhood rituals of the South African Xhosa people, and Ngxokolo uses patterns, beadwork and symbolism from this rich culture in his modern contemporary clothing designs for him and her.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, Cnr Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 492 1532, maxhosa.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

MR VINYL Browse for the biggest selection of new and pre-loved vinyl across all genres, including rare and collectable items, or just hang out on the sofa and enjoy the music. Mr Vinyl also takes part in the popular monthly Vinyl Fair which happens on the first Sunday of the month at the Stanley Beer Yard a few doors down.QA-1, 44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 1212, mrvinyl.co.za. Open 09:00– 17:00, Sun and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

PIECE @ ELLIS HOUSE The beautiful Piece gallery and store sells an extraordinary range of high-end contemporary crafted items, and develops the traditional skills of local craftspeople by providing an outlet for their wares. Each item is handmade, authentic and ethically sourced. Find traditional Swazi woven baskets, beadwork, and gorgeous papier-mâché creatures from the Kalahari that are a favourite of Princess Charlene of Monaco.QG-4, 23 Voorhout St, New Doornfontein, tel.+27 11 447 5541, piece.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. February 2018 – April 2018

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Designer Jacques van der Watt of Black Coffee

Shopping

BOUTIQUE SHOPPING

MALLS

27 BOXES Built from shipping containers 27 Boxes reflects Bohemian Melville’s love for local brands. The centre is home to small businesses, among them fashion boutiques, gift shops, and cafés. Visit the colourful Krag Drag store for fun T-shirts and Babygros that playfully reference iconic South African brands and for a cool selection of retro-inspired gift items.

There’s a regularly changing collection of pop-up shops selling everything from vintage clothing to paintings and prints by local artists and lots of places to grab snacks like samoosas, smoothies and decadent cronuts. On Wednesdays, indulge in late-night shopping at 27 Boxes’ Night Market.Q76 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 1090, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–20:00, Sat 09:00–17:00, Sun 10:00–16:00. Closed Mon.

South Africans love their malls and Joburg has some of the country's best. In the heart of Central Sandton is Joburg’s biggest mall Sandton City which links directly to Nelson Mandela Square with hundreds of shops, including the flagship stores of major local and international fashion, sports, and design brands (sandtoncity.com, open 09:00–20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–18:00). Visit Rosebank Mall for more than 150 high street brands and browse the boutiques at the adjoining The Zone@Rosebank (rosebankmall.co.za and thezoneatrosebank.co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–17:00). Midrand's flashy new Mall of Africa is one of Africa’s biggest malls. Bring your walking shoes (mallofafrica.co.za, open 09:00–20:00, Sun 10:00–20:00).

ORIENTAL PLAZA

44 STANLEY This charming converted 1930s industrial complex is filled with boutiques and cute courtyard cafés shaded by olive trees. For fashion look out for local designer labels Lunar, Guillotine and Black Coffee and super stylish menswear store Odrin. For colourful kids clothing referencing traditional African patterns there’s Kuna Kids. Among many other must-visit stores is the divine Belgian chocolate store Chocoloza, vinyl record shop Mr Vinyl, and Mungo Design where you will find luxurious woven linens made according to traditional 19th-Century techniques.Q44 Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, 44stanley.co.za. Open 09:00–16:00, Sun 10:00–15:00.

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN This urban shopping emporium is housed in the historic Potato Sheds first built in 1911 as part of Joburg’s original fruit and vegetable market in Newtown. The voluminous heritage space showcases some of the hippest local fashion and design brands including the Xhosa-inspired knitwear label Maxhosa by Laduma, and top South African rapper Cassper Nyovest’s fashion label Family Tree, as well as craft and gift stalls, vintage fashion retailers, pop up shops, small boutiques specialising in clothing and accessories made from African fabrics and a nail bar.QB-4, 100 Carr St, Newtown (secure parking at Newtown Junction), tel. +27 60 786 1004, workshopnewtown.com. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon. 56 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Head to this thriving Fordsburg mega-bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and jewelled fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts. Teens will love the many stores offering the season’s latest fashions (For more on what to see in Fordsburg, go to p.37).QA-5, 38 Lilian Ngoyi St, Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–15:00. Closed Sun. Many shops close Fri between 12:00–14:00 for prayers. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

hip Emma came to know the Oriental Plaza’s amazing fashion selection back in 2004. She became a trendsetter much earlier.

oriental plaza fordsburg www.orientalplaza.co.za

What’s your favourite style?

Keep up with the latest styles at over 300 unique stores. Discover endless trends in shirts, sneakers, pants, jackets, bags and so much more.

ART & DESIGN CENTRAL Within walking distance of the malls of Rosebank, at the corner of Jan Smuts and Jellicoe Avenues, is the start of Keyes Art Mile, an exciting development that has revitalised a formerly quiet street and created an art and design hub.

The first phase of Keyes Art Mile is the Trumpet building (opened late August 2016), an impressive contemporary space, with galleries, chic design stores and cafés opening out onto the street, a vast atrium that is curated as a gallery space and upstairs a cluster of slick restaurants and bars.

Once the humdrum headquarters of a major petrol company Keyes Art Mile is now one of the hottest spots in Joburg, and attracts around 2000 people on the first Thursday of every month to its First Thursdays street parties where food trucks and pop-up bars are set up in the street and the galleries host free events.

Flanked by wild olive trees, Trumpet’s towering architecture is the work of StudioMAS who designed the landmark Circa Gallery building next door which is encased in a series of soaring metal fins.

On any day the rhombus-shaped Trumpet building is a busy space with a cool African-retro styled pavement café Milk Bar, an American burger bar BGR and the ultra-stylish rooftop Marble grill restaurant (which also has its own exclusive butchery downstairs). Mesh Club, a sexy members-only club with a cocktail bar is crammed full of impressive contemporary art and also has a pop-up rooftop bar Upstairs at Mesh co-run by one of Joburg’s leading contemporary art galleries Gallery MOMO (see Nightlife).

At Circa and Everard Read gallery impressive temporary exhibitions by leading South African artists await, while at SMAC Gallery you can find edgy contemporary fine art, installation and photography exhibitions.

Q K-12, 19 Keyes Ave, Rosebank, keyesartmile.co.za.

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ANATOMY DESIGN This design studio and shop has built a name for its considered spaces, attention to detail and elegant homeware items, furniture and lighting.QTel. +27 11 024 3727, anatomydesign.co.za.

CASSINA, KARTELL AND FLOS These three international design brands are defined by their dedication to producing timeless modern classics, particularly furniture and lighting.QTel. +27 83 271 8447, truedesign.co.za.

OKAPI One of South Africa’s leading luxury brands, with stores in Cape Town, Durban and London, Okapi specialises in ultra-luxurious statement handbags and accessories made from ethically sourced zebra, ostrich, blesbok and crocodile leathers in a range of colours.Qokapi.com.

THE BUTCHERY BY MARBLE An exquisite and unique destination that its owners refer to as “essentially the jewellery shop of butchers”. With a boutique feel, and a beautiful range of kitchen accessories on sale the butchery also doubles as a wine bar (see Where to Eat for details).Q+27 10 594 5552, marble.restaurant.

SHELFLIFE This cult South African store is a shrine to the designer sneaker, specialising in limited-edition sneaker lines from leading global brands like Nike, Adidas, Puma and New Balance. Don’t be surprised to spot famous local rappers and other celebrities browsing the latest footwear alongside you.QTel. +27 10 594 5129, shelflife.co.za. johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Keyes Art Mile, Rosebank. Photo: Anton Bosman

Shopping

Shopping LUXURY SHOPPING ARDMORE DESIGN Ardmore Design is a luxury African brand that translates the intricately patterned, brightly coloured and whimsical art of hand-painting found on the highly collectable Ardmore Ceramics range, into design and decor items.

The range includes tablecloths, wall-hangings, cushion covers, placemats, handbags and even stationery.QK‑11, Hyde Square, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and North Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 268 5865, ardmore-design.com. Open 09:00–16:30, Sat 09:00–14:00. Closed Sun. COLLECTIVE BY CHARLES GREIG This sister store to Charles Greig Jewellers in Hyde Park stocks an exquisite range of contemporary luxury items, from Kenyan designer Anna Trzebinski’s hand-made feathered pashminas to one-of-a-kind jewelled pieces, leather goods and Africology spa products. A treasure trove of beautiful items.QL‑9, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Central, tel. +27 11 783 2714, collectiveafrica.co.za.

Open 09:00–20:00, Sun 09:00–18:00.

MELVILL AND MOON The Melvill family specialise in fine hand-crafted accessories and luggage in leather and safari canvas. Their luxurious range of hand-stitched leather accessories, inspired by 19th Century colonial designs, include bird book covers, elegant carry-on bags and the Serengeti Sundowner, a beautiful leather tote that neatly stores six wine glasses.Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 11 262 5030, melvillandmoon. com. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 09:00–13:00. Closed Sun.

Hanspeter Winklmayer of Via La Moda. Photo: Heather Mason

For more suggestions on where to shop in Joburg see johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

VIA LA MODA Tucked into an industrial building in Industria North, this place is one of Joburg’s better-kept secrets. For luxury addicts, Via La Moda’s showroom is a muststop on any Johannesburg itinerary offering up an enormous array of finely crafted handbags and other leather accessories in a glorious arrangement of vibrant colours, shapes and textures (said to be the largest display on the African continent).

From handbags to purses, and leather belts, each item is made with care and precision, and stitched in the pristine workshop overseen by Austrian-born designer Hanspeter Winklmayr. The leather materials used are ethically sourced and the focused process of creating a luxury product is evident from the patience displayed for precise and painstaking work.

Winklmayr displays an attitude of reverence for the materials he uses. Each skin is individually treated and the manufacturing process ensures that every piece of material is used.

Most refreshing is that this homegrown South African luxury brand revels in producing unique designs that are frequently updated, making many pieces collector’s items, as quality is prized over quantity. The brand that Winklmayr has built up over time combines modern technologies with traditional crafting techniques resulting in covetable handbags and accessories that fit a wide range of budgets.

The Via La Moda stable also includes the Via Veneta range of more accessible designs, which means you might even have to buy more than one.Q19 Banfield Rd, Roodepoort, tel. +27 11 477 8008, vialamoda.com. Open 09:00-17:00, Fri 09:0016:00, Sat 09:00-13:00.

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Shopping MARKETS

AFRICAN FLAVOUR BOOKS Selling exclusively African books, both fiction and non-fiction, with more than 90% of titles on the shelves by writers from the African continent. Friendly and knowledgable staff will happily suggest titles based on your interests.QC-3, 20 Melle St (entrance on De Korte St next to Once in Joburg), Braamfontein, tel. +27 16 931 0068, africanflavourbooks.com.

Open 09:00–18:00, Sat 09:00–19:00. Closed Sun. BRIDGE BOOKS This downtown bookshop is located in a converted heritage building that was once a bank. The bookshop, which has its own coffee bar, occupies the mezzanine level and sells secondhand and new books with a focus on African writers. Look out for regular book events including children’s book readings on Saturdays.QD‑5, 85 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 79 708 4461, bridgebooks.co.za. Open 08:00– 17:00, Sat and public holidays 10:00–16:00. Closed Sun. Coffee Bar 07:00–18:00.

COLLECTOR’S TREASURY For browsers and bibliophiles it doesn’t get much better than this. Spread across several floors of an innercity block, this is the largest used and rare bookshop in Africa with some two million items heaped along shelves, staircases and any other surface that will hold them.QF‑5, CTP House, 244 Commissioner St, City Centre, tel. +27 11 334 6556. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat 10:00–13:00. Closed Sun. LOVE BOOKS Kate Rogan’s independent bookshop exhibits her thoughtful and considered reading choices, awardwinning books, books people are or should be talking about including plenty of South African titles. The adjoining café Service Station is a popular neighbourhood hangout with a view of the Melville Koppies.

QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7408, lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00–14:00.

60 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

BRYANSTON ORGANIC & NATURAL MARKET Joburg’s original family outdoor market offers a superb range of organic goods and products in a relaxed environment. You’ll find African art and crafts, health and wellness products, plus authentic Panama hats. There’s plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and refreshingly not a hipster in sight.Q40 Culross Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays 09:00–15:00.

MARKET ON MAIN Gourmet food stalls and a sunny courtyard plus a fantastic selection of vintage clothing make this original city market, that spills out onto the surrounding streets, an addictive Sunday destination.QF-5, Arts on Main, 264 Fox St, Maboneng, tel. +27 82 868 1335, marketonmain.co.za.

Open Sun 10:00–15:00.

NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKET Jostle with the hipsters in queues for frozen mojitos, paella and other gourmet street food before heading one floor up for live music at this bustling rooftop market.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 81 416 2605, neighbourgoodsmarket. co.za/johannesburg. Open Sat 09:00–15:00.

ROSEBANK ART & CRAFT MARKET The place to find the widest range of African souvenirs from across the continent. Buy handcrafted items such as beaded sculptures, West African masks and quintessential Big Five figurines. ‘This is Africa. We Bargain’ is the market’s abiding motto.QK-12, Rosebank Mall, Cradock Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 568 0850, artandcraftmarket. co.za. Open 09:00–18:00, Fri 09:00–19:00, Sat, Sun, public holidays 09:00–17:00.

ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET Taking up a large covered rooftop space this market brings together a wide range of talented crafters. There’s also a variety of clothing stalls selling vintage and contemporary fashion. Don’t leave without eating from the food stalls – look out for the homemade falafel and hummus from King Arabic Sandwich. Flea market enthusiasts will enjoy the car boot sale on the last Sunday of the month.QK-12, Rosebank Mall (Level 4), cnr Bath and Baker Sts, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 028 7818, rosebanksundaymarket.co.za.

Open Sun 09:00–16:00.

Market on Main, Maboneng

Bridge Books, City Centre

BOOKS

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Shopping VINTAGE AND THRIFT SHOPS From cut-price vintage designer treasures to thrift shop finds paid for with small change, shopping for vintage clothing in Joburg is a pleasure. On Saturdays head to Braamfontein and browse the rails at the pop-up thrift market in Kitchener’s Carvery Bar and at the Neighbourgoods market across the road. On Sundays Market On Main in Maboneng has a very enticing selection of quality vintage stalls as does Rosebank Sunday Market (the collection of vintage accessories and antique jewellery is particularly impressive) where there is also a car boot sale and flea market event on the last Sunday of the month.

27 BOXES This shipping container shopping development in Melville is home to dozens of small and quirky independent boutique stores and restaurants offering an alternative to Joburg’s mega-mall scene. Look out for the regularly rotating selection of vintage pop-up stores with every era, from the 1920s flappers to the 1990s grunge rockers, catered for at prices that won’t break the bank. For dapper hats and men’s jackets and blazers drop into the small Timeless Clothiers vintage store.Q75 4th Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0000, 27Boxes.co.za. Open 10:00–18:00, Sun 09:00–16:00. Closed Mon. RAGS & LACE This upmarket vintage store on Jan Smuts Avenue has been in business for some three decades. The rails are stuffed with pre-loved clothing from all eras – many of them from high fashion designer brands. All items come with a ‘sell by date’ meaning that they become cheaper the longer they remain on the rails.Q358 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 787 2130. Open 10:00-16:30, Sun 09:00-13:00.

REMINISCENE Full of character, the Irish owner, Rosemary, with her incredible eye for vintage finds is an additional reason to visit this store. Reminiscene has been in business for three decades offering an excellent selection of period clothing with the latest items dating back to the 1970s. If you are a vintage fan you'll enjoy the handbags, leather day bags, evening bags, shoes, gloves, luxurious furs plus the Victorian, Edwardian and 1930s jewellery pieces.Q7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 7905​. Open 09:00–17:30, Wed 09:00–16:00. Closed Sun. VINTIQUEEN ​ osipho Mayosi, aka VintiQueen, runs two vintage clothN ing stores in the Maboneng precinct. From 1980s power suits to cute 1960s A-line skirts and chiffon blouses, VintiQueen’s selection of vintage finds is eclectic, extensive and constantly being updated. The double-storey flagship store in Maboneng’s Access City evokes the style and glamour of the 1940s and 1950s with period furniture offset by fresh flowers and brightly painted walls.QF/G-4, 5 Beacon Rd, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 021 2328. Open 10:00–17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30–16:00. Closed Mon. facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

WORK SHOP NEW TOWN The Work Shop New Town shopping emporium in the courtyard at Newtown Junction brings together hip urban street wear labels and cool brands referencing traditional African fabrics. You’ll also find a decent handful of vintage clothing pop-up retailers. Look out for Retro Zing for brightly patterned Aloha shirts, flared denims and quirky accessories like Jackie O-inspired sunglasses.QB-4, Work Shop New Town, 100 Carr St, Newtown (parking at Newtown Junction), tel. +27 60 786 1004. Open 10:00– 18:00, Sun 10:00–15:00. Closed Mon.

'DUNUSA' MARKETS A lesser-known Joburg shopping secret is the abundance of informal second-hand clothing thrift markets in the inner city. Set less than 2km apart are the 'dunusas', an isiZulu word meaning to bend down and point your bum, alluding to the way shoppers hunt for clothing. Controlled by the African Traders Associations, the traders and clothing come from across Africa and you'll be surrounded by a cacophony of languages as you shop. With clothing prices starting at R2 per item the dunusas offer relief from Joburg's high-cost of living. The three main markets are easily accessible from Park Station. The largest is on De Villiers St, another is on Eloff St (behind Park Station) and the third is on the pedestrianised section of Diagonal St. Shop with a companion and make sure to not bring your valuables.

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Joburg skyline. Photo: Anton Bosman

Joburg Basics

24-HOUR CITY Joburg’s relentless pace slows in the evening, and many restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The city’s nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like cigarettes or airtime for your cellphone. Staying out until the early hours doesn‘t deter Joburgers from rising with the birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and you’ll see joggers, cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their way through the suburbs just after sunrise.

BANKING AND MONEY The South African unit of currency is the rand (ZAR) and notes bear the image of former president Nelson Mandela on one side and one of the Big Five on the other. There are 100c in each rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100, R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c and 5c units. Be especially careful with R20 and R200 notes as they look very similar in colour. South Africa has a modern and sophisticated banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at bureaux de change and at most branches of the big four retail banks (Absa, FNB, Nedbank and Standard Bank). If you need foreign currency, check the bank’s requirements (documentation and account status) first since foreign notes are not always readily available. ATMs can be found everywhere and major credit and debit cards can be used at most retail and hospitality establishments (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted).

CLIMATE Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures 62 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

from April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August. Spring (September and October) is brief, and you’ll know it by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming Jacaranda trees cast across the city’s northern suburbs.

Summer temperatures average 25 °C (77 °F), with winter days dropping to a low of around 15 °C (59 °F). Winter nights can dip to 4 °C (39 °F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays and the occasional rainbow to match.

CELLPHONES AND SIM CARDS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom, MTN, Cell C and Telkom Mobile. By law all local SIM cards must first be registered before they can be activated. You will need your passport and a proof of address (a hotel booking will usually suffice) to do this. All networks offer pay-as-you-go options for airtime and data and you can buy extra airtime at most malls, supermarkets and petrol stations.

VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced bookings can be made via e-mail.QInternational Arrivals Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:00–22:00.

TRAVEL TIPS Safety in any major city is about common sense, information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception. Be aware of your surroundings, keep your valuables concealed and try and look like you know where you are going. If you are driving keep any valuables safely locked away in the boot. Also be aware of ATM card cloning scams. Don’t accept help from strangers at ATMs and try to use machines which are located inside banks. If taking a tour of the city, use registered and accredited tour guides (see Sightseeing for suggestions). johannesburg.inyourpocket.com

Joburg Basics EMERGENCY NUMBERS When in uniform, officers of the Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JPMD), Gauteng Traffic Department and SA Police Service (SAPS) wear service and rank insignia as well as a name badge. If approached you have the right to request to see the officer’s identity card. From a cellphone dial 112 (toll-free) for a national 24-hour emergency call centre who will connect you to the nearest service. Call 10111 for emergencies requiring immediate police assistance or 10177 for emergency fire and ambulance services. For private emergency medical services dial 082 911 for Netcare 911’s 24-hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24.

MEDICAL CARE EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTISTQ7 Long Ave, Glenhazel, tel. +27 82 457 0176 or +27 82 443 5366, emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za.

MAYS CHEMISTQ11 Main Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open 08:00–21:00, Sun 09:00–14:00, 17:00–21:00.

SWIFT CARE CLINIC Walk-in private clinic for minor injuries and illnesses.QK-12, 14 Sturdee Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 328 0511, swiftcareclinic.co.za. Open 08:00–18:00. Sat, Sun public holidays 09:00–16:00.

NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, tel. +27 11 480 5600, netcare.co.za. Open 24/7.

TIPPING If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters and petrol attendants, there’s a plethora of people waiting for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards, security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants, 10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.

March 21 March 30 April 2 April 27 May 1

Human Rights Day Good Friday Easter Monday Freedom Day Workers’ Day

POSTAGE South African Post Office branches can be found in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel.

0860 767 8638, postnet.co.za). For courier services, Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch in O.R. Tambo International Airport (Terminal A1, International Arrivals). facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket

LOCAL PRICES Big Mac R28 Cappuccino R20–R25 Cigarettes R40–R50 Daily newspaper R4–R15 Litre of petrol R12–R14 Loaf of bread R12–R15 Local beer (in a bar) R22–R28

NEED TO KNOW DIALLING CODES The South African country code is 0027 (or +27). For directory enquiries dial 1023.

DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants, museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.

See southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.

ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and 50 hertz throughout South Africa.

LANGUAGE South Africa has 11 official languages, although English is the lingua franca of city life.

POLITICS South Africa has a multiparty political system.

The current ruling party is the African National Congress (ANC).

RELIGION There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity in South Africa and Joburg has places of worship and spiritual sites serving all major religions (see our website for a directory).

SMOKING Smoking is banned in public places and despite it carrying a R500 penalty you might find people smoking on terraces and in doorways of bars and restaurants. Look out for specially designated smoking areas. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes and you cannot smoke in a car in the presence of children under 12.

TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the entire country is in the same time zone. Some applications pick this up as ‘Harare time’. There is no daylight saving time.

TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg Tourism (joburgtourism.com), Gauteng Tourism (gauteng.net) and Sandton Tourism (sandtontourism.com).

VAT A tax of 14 percent is levied on all consumer goods except some basic foodstuffs. Non-resident foreign passport holders can claim a Vat refund at the tax refunds office at O.R. Tambo International Airport (taxrefunds.co.za). You will need to get a tax invoice ffrom the shop for anything you buy to be able to claim VAT. WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the cleanest, safest and healthiest in the world. It also tastes good.

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