Lidia's Italy at Home #4 by Lidia Bastianich

R E T IN W

DISCOVER ITALIAN FOOD, DRINK AND LIVING WITH LIDIA BASTIANICH, ONE OF AMERICA BEST-LOVED CHEFS - PRICE $5.99 US, $6.99 CANADA - ISSUE 04 - 2019/2020

N IO IT D E

DISCOVER ITALIAN FOOD, DRINK AND LIVING WITH LIDIA BASTIANICH

Lidia's Christmas Menu

Wines That Sparkle

A simple, delicious family feast

Italy’s regional vintages for celebrating

Discovering Val Gardena

Make-Ahead Brunch

Northern Italy’s spectacular mountain valley

Kids' Favorites Pasta e fagioli and grilled cheese

The secret: polenta-egg casserole

Game Day Snacks to keep every fan happy

ISSUE 04 - 2019 / 2020

Chef Lidia Bastianich brings us into her home to share her favorite family recipes: Arancini Stuffed Artichokes Baked Ziti with Eggplant Cod with Braised Fennel Roast Duck with Lemon and Honey Butternut Squash and Kale Risotto Apple Brandy Negroni Chocolate and Almond Crostata with Cherries

Welcome to our fourth issue of Lidia’s Italy at Home! We hope you’re finding inspiration in the recipes and stories we’ve sharing with you. In this issue we’re celebrating the coziness of winter—when our ovens are filled with cookies baking, our stovetops have pots of stews and soups simmering away, and, as days grow shorter, we are spending more time gathered around the table. Those gatherings may be for special holiday dinners with family and friends, when you want to go all out and roast a duck or pick out a fresh lobster and make a pasta fra diavolo (see the menu on page 29). Or you may have people stopping by for a drink and a dolce, in which case, why not offer them a cocktail with an Italian twist, using the fragrant aperitif Barolo Chinato or a Negroni with apple brandy (page 89)? Or maybe you’re just having your fellow football fans over for the afternoon. Our arancini, crostini, and chicken bites may make your house the most popular spot for watching games. We’re also celebrating those days that are nothing special but when a hearty penne with peas and mushrooms (page 94) or classic Istrian stuffed cabbage (page 78) are just the things to warm you. Some of the most warming, heartiest food in Italy comes from the Val Gardena region, in the Dolomites. It is a stunningly beautiful region close to the Austrian border, and its food reflects that in its fritters and rye breads and charcuterie. We invite you to taste a bit of the Val Gardena on page 65. In this time of celebration, giving thanks, and new beginnings, I wish you all a very joyful season and a very happy new year!

Tutti a tavola!

Contents 9 14 18 25 29 42 49 54 60 65 77 81 87 93 101 109 115 122 124

In My Garden Flavors of Childhood Italian Pantry It’s Wine O’Clock Celebrating at the Table Keeping It Light Lidia Entertains: Holiday Brunch Italian-American Favorites The Importance of Being Italian Discovering Val Gardena It’s Wintertime Time to Eat Tie One On W hat a Wonderful Pasta My Grocery List Eat Different It’s Always Dessert Time Ingredient of the Month Glossary

Recipes 10 Broccoli Rabe and Sausage 12 Marinated Winter Squash with Sage 15 Italian Grilled Cheese 16 Pasta and Beans 30 Warm Garlic-Anchovy Dip 32 Radicchio, Endive, and Walnut Salad 34 Stuffed Artichokes 37 Lobster Fra Diavolo with Spaghetti 38 Roasted Duck Legs with Honey and Lemon

41 Chocolate and Almond Crostata with Cherries

44 Barley and Vegetable Stuffed Peppers 46 Pork Tenderloin

74 75 78 82 83 84

GrĂśstl Apple Fritters Istrian Stuffed Cabbage Tomato and Ricotta Crostini Stuffed Rice Balls Spicy Chicken Bites

with Sausages and Vinegar

88 89 90 94 95

Spiked Hazelnut Hot Chocolate Apple Brandy Negroni Barolo Chinato Sour Penne with Peas and Mushrooms Linguine with Calamari, Scallops,

and Shrimp

with Carrot and Apple Salad

97 98

and Golden Raisins

Polenta, Sausage,

and Egg Breakfast Casserole

Shaved Fennel, Endive, Celery,

and Red Onion Salad

52 53 56 58 62 63 72

102 105 106

Farfalle with Cabbage and Meat Sauce Rigatoni with Cauliflower, Saffron,

Braised Beef Rolls Cod with Braised Fennel Horseradish

Spicy Bloody Mary

and Scallion Mashed Potatoes

Torrone Biscotti

110 111 112 116 118 120

Baked Ziti with Eggplant and Ricotta Fried Banana Peppers and Onions Roman-Style Semolina Gnocchi Octopus and Potato Salad SchĂźttelbrot

Herbed Cauliflower Gratinate Lamb Stew with Fennel and Olives Butternut Squash and Kale Risotto Rustic Pear Crostata Chocolate Spice Cookies Rum-Raisin Ricotta Cheesecake

Editor in Chief Lidia Bastianich Co-Editors: Tanya Bastianich Manuali Shelly Burgess Nicotra Nanette Maxim Copy Editor Lorenzo Manuali

Contributing Writers Olivia Pera Giuseppe Rosati Editorial manager Franco Del Panta Communication and PR Director Corrado Manuali Sales, Advertising & Events Director Paolo Del Panta

Art Direction Francesco Sciarrone

Digital Tech Liam Canning

Proofreading Elisa Rodi Martina Morelli

Food Editor Amy Stevenson

Photo Credit for Food Photos and Cover Shot Jennifer May

Food Stylist Assistant Liz Crabtree Make up Lisa Makowski

In my garden: Cold-Season Stars

By December, my garden has long been

appetizer, I make the squash the star, frying or

put to bed for the season, but that doesn’t

grilling slices, then drizzling them in a garlic-

mean I’m running out of homegrown produce.

forward marinade and scattering them with

My shelves are lined with jars of the tomatoes

fried sage leaves.

I canned and use for sauce; preserves like the

plenty of rosemary, thyme, and other herbs that

cool-weather garden that are often on my table in

I dried; and my freezer is stocked with batches

spring and fall, when I can pick what I’ve grown

of pesto I made from fragrant summer basil.

myself, and in winter, when I can get them at the

market from slightly warmer regions.

mostarda I’ve made with peaches and cherries;

Yet, beyond the preserves, there are still

some fresh vegetables, like the potatoes and

Bitter greens, such as kale and broccoli

rabe, or rapini, are other vegetables from the

Despite its name, broccoli rabe, although

winter squashes I’ve harvested in fall, kept in

in the same genus, Brassica, is in the mustard

a cool, dark spot, and will cook with all winter

family and is a closer relative to the turnip

long (they can typically be stored for three

than it is to regular broccoli. Its flavor is much

to four months). There are so many varieties

stronger than its distant cousin as well, so when

of winter squash to choose from, including

preparing it, it’s important to trim away the

relatively sweet butternut, Hubbard, and acorn,

larger lower leaves (the upper leaves are much

the mild buttercup, creamy delicata, the nutty,

better), and the lowest part of the stem (I like

earthy kabocha, and zucca (an Italian round,

peeling it, not cutting off too much, as I enjoy

orange-fleshed squash similar in flavor to

the bitterness). Also, balance the flavor (as

the butternut). I share the love that Northern

you would with all bitter greens) with a sweet,

Italians, especially cooks in Emilia-Romagna

salty, or acidic ingredient. Sautéing rapini with

and the Veneto, have for cooking zucca and

oil and garlic is one of the simplest and best

other winter squashes. I use them to make

ways to serve it. Sweet sausage complements

a wintery caponata to serve with meats, as

that basic recipe, as shown on the next pages,

a stuffing for ravioli, to combine with potato

and it’s nice served with orecchiette pasta.

for a gnocchi to serve with brown butter and

Or combine it with potatoes to stuff a frico,

sage, in a pasta sauce with cauliflower, capers,

the Montasio cheese crisp. These greens are

and tomatoes, a crostata with kale and ricotta,

also so healthy for us, packed with vitamins

and even in a dessert flan (it’s a very velvety

A, C, and K and minerals like calcium and

addition to the creamy sweet). In the recipe on

potassium, and happily they’re absolutely

page 12, which you can serve as a side dish or

delicious.

Broccoli Rabe and Sausage Cime di rapa e salsicce You can cut the sausages in half or into thirds after, browning, if you’d like, so your guests can take as much or as little as they want. Leftovers make a great sandwich or frittata filling.

Yield Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients 2 bunches broccoli rabe (about 2 pounds) ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 ¾ pounds sweet Italian sausage (about 8 links), without fennel seeds 3 large garlic cloves, peeled Kosher salt ¼ teaspoon peperoncino

Recipe

Trim the coarse, tough ends from the broccoli rabe and

remove any wilted or yellow leaves. Starting at the cut ends of the stems, peel the tough outer coating of the stems with a paring knife or vegetable peeler. Cut any very thick stems in half lengthwise. Wash the broccoli rabe in plenty of cool water, then drain, leaving some of the water that clings to the leaves.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat in a

large deep, heavy skillet or casserole with a tight-fitting lid. Poke the sausages all over with a fork and lay them in the skillet. Cook, turning as necessary, until caramelized on all sides and no trace of pink remains in the center, about 8 to 12 minutes, depending on thickness. Remove sausages to a plate.

Pour in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Whack

the garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife, scatter them over the oil, and cook until golden, about 3 minutes. Add the broccoli rabe, season with salt and the peperoncino. Pour in ½ inch of water, bring to a boil, and cover the casserole. Steam, lifting the lid to stir occasionally, until the broccoli rabe is softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook over medium heat until the liquid is evaporated and the broccoli rabe is tender, about 5 minutes.

Return the sausages to the skillet and turn them until

warmed through. Serve the sausages on plates or a platter, flanked by the broccoli rabe.

Recipe

Marinated Winter Squash with Sage Zucca marinata con salvia

Mix the vinegar, sugar, and salt together in a small

saucepan. Let simmer over high heat until the sauce is reduced by half. Remove from the heat, add the garlic slices, and let the marinade cool. Stir in the olive oil.

Slice all of the squash in half lengthwise, and

scrape out all the seeds. You don’t need to peel the delicata or honeynut, but peel the ridges from the acorn

The cooler months of the year are the best time to

squash. Cut crosswise into ⅓-inch-thick half-rounds.

find all varieties of sweet winter squash. The ones I’ve

chosen here are small and supersweet, so you can use

nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil

a few varieties for color and taste. I especially like the

sizzles on contact, add the sage leaves and fry until just

honeynut variety. I’ve been seeing it more and more at

crisp, about 2 to 3 seconds. Remove to paper towels

the farmer’s market—it’s like butternut squash’s smal-

to drain and season with salt. Add a layer of squash to

ler, richer cousin. If you can’t find all of these squashes,

the pan, spaced slightly apart. Fry for about 3 minutes

feel free to use all of one kind or 1 large butternut.

on the first side, then flip the slices over. Fry on the

Pour a thin layer of vegetable oil into a large

second side another 2 or 3 minutes, until the slices are

Yield Serves 6 to 8 as part of an antipasti or as a side

cooked through (easy to pierce with the tines of a fork), crisped on the surface, and caramelized on the edges. Lift out the slices with a slotted spoon, and drain on

Ingredients

paper towels. Season lightly with salt. Repeat with the remaining squash.

1 ¼ cup apple cider vinegar

Arrange a single layer of fried squash in the bottom

1 tablespoon sugar

of a shallow serving dish, large enough to hold all of

½ teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste

the squash. Scatter four or five sage leaves on top. Stir

6 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

up the marinade, and drizzle a few spoonfuls over the

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

squash. Scatter some of the garlic slices on the squash,

1 small delicata squash (about 1 pound)

too. Layer all the squash in the dish this way, topping

1 small acorn squash (about 1 pound)

each layer of fried slices with sage leaves, marinade, and

1 small honeynut squash (about 1 pound)

garlic. Drizzle any remaining marinade over the top layer

Vegetable oil, as needed

of squash.

20 small fresh sage leaves

¼ cup toasted sliced almonds

time!) sit at room temperature for a few hours before

The marinated squash can (and should, if you have

serving. Sprinkle the almond slices over the top right before serving.

Whenever my grandchildren come by on a cold day, I try to have a

big pot of soup on the stove for them. It’s not only an Italian tradition but a family one. Soup is gentle food—and as long as I can remember, my mother, Erminia, has prepared countless soothing pots of soup for me,

especially chicken-and-rice, minestrone, and pasta e fagioli. To the pastaand-bean soup she would add some fresh or cured pork or sausages to give it a richer flavor, and we would often eat the meat as a second course. The beans in our soup were grown by my grandmother, and as children we would help shell them after they had been hung in their pods and dried in the sun. Those beans kept us fed well all winter long.

Pasta e fagioli is made a little differently in every region of Italy, with

layers of flavors and textures involving various vegetables, meats, and the pasta itself. While Americans may use ditalini or elbow macaroni, in Italy

some cooks use up their bits of leftover dried pasta by combining them in a bag and pounding them into bite-size pieces for the soup.

And, for kids, what goes better with a hearty bowl of soup than a

grilled cheese sandwich? I put an Italian spin on this classic combination, making the sandwiches open-face, using crusty bread, a combination of Pecorino and provolone cheeses (or any cheese you have on hand), some oregano, and a sprinkling of fresh parsley. Another Italian twist you can give grilled cheese is to use polenta for the “bread,” as we did back in Istria and which I still do today in a couple of ways. After polenta is cooked, there’s a film left on the pot, which you can remove, top with cheese and give an extra baking. Or let firm polenta rest for a day, then cut it into triangles or squares, and use it to sandwich your cheese on the grill. But I’ll warn you; your kids may never ask for plain grilled-cheese again. 14

Italian Grilled Cheese Pane tostato con formaggio

Recipe

In a small bowl combine the Pecorino,

provolone, and oregano. Melt a small knob of butter This is more of a cheese toast than what we usually

and a little olive oil to create a thin film in the bottom

think of as grilled cheese. These crisp, nutty toasts

of a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Swirl

are the perfect accompaniment to a hot bowl of

the butter and oil together and add the bread slices

soup.

to the skillet in one layer. Weight with another skillet

Yield Serves 2

Ingredients

and cook until just crisp on the underside, 2 to 3 minutes.

Before flipping, sprinkle the tops with the

cheese mixture and let melt slightly, about 1 to 2 minutes. Quickly flip the slices so the cheese stays on

½ cup grated Pecorino

and weight the skillet with another skillet. Cook until

½ cup finely shredded provolone

the cheese is brown and crisp, about 3 minutes.

½ teaspoon dried oregano

Unsalted butter, as needed

sprinkle with black pepper and parsley. Serve hot.

Flip right side up onto a serving plate and

Extra-virgin olive oil 4 (½-inch-thick) large slices country bread Freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Recipe

Pour 6 quarts water into a large Dutch oven. Add

Pasta and Beans

the drained beans, rosemary, and bay leaves. Bring to

Pasta e fagioli

gentle boil. Simmer until the beans just begin to get

There are so many versions of this classic soup—you can vary the vegetables based on what’s in season and what you want to use up from the fridge. While this version is vegetarian, you can also add a little pancetta, bacon, or some smoked sausage or ham hock to add an even deeper flavor. The Grana Padano rind adds flavor as well, and you’re using a piece of the cheese you’d normally throw away. Any small pasta shape works or you can use a mix—or (as we used to do) put all of those leftover handfuls of dried pasta you have lying around together and lightly crush with a rolling pin!

Yield Makes about 4 quarts

Ingredients 1 pound dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight and drained 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 bay leaves 3 large russet potatoes (about 1 ¾ pounds), peeled and quartered ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 cloves of garlic, crushed and peeled 1 large onion, chopped 2 large carrots, chopped 3 celery stalks, chopped 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), with their liquid, crushed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 (3-inch piece) Grana Padano rind 2 cups small pasta shapes (or coarsely crushed pasta) Freshly grated Grana Padano, for serving

a rolling boil over high heat, then adjust the heat to a tender, 35 to 40 minutes, adding the potatoes after 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large skillet

over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until light golden and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Stir in the onions, carrots, and celery and cook, stirring, until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes to concentrate.

Pour the contents of the skillet into the soup pot.

Season lightly with salt and pepper, add the cheese rind, and bring to a slow boil. Cook until the beans are very tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Ladle about one third of the beans, along with

enough cooking liquid to cover them, into a baking dish or other shallow container where they will cool quickly. Cool the beans until no longer steaming. (Blending or processing hot beans can cause splatters. Stirring will speed up the cooling process.) Process the beans and liquid in a blender until creamy. Return the beans to the pot.

Remove the potatoes to a plate, using a slotted

spoon. Mash them coarsely with a fork and return them to the pot. Cook 10 minutes to give the flavors a chance to blend. (If you’re setting some of the soup aside to serve at another time, ladle it off now, before adding the pasta.) Let the soup rest off the heat, covered, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard the bay leaves, rosemary sprigs, and cheese rind.

While the soup is resting, cook the pasta in salted

water until al dente. (Cook all the pasta if serving the full recipe of soup or a proportionate amount if you’re setting some of the soup aside for later). Drain thoroughly and stir into the soup. Serve the soup in bowls, with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of grated cheese.

9 INGREDIENTS

YOUSHOULD

ALWAYS

HAVE

INYOURKITCHEN The first secret to a good meal is a well-stocked and organized pantry. Use very simple ingredients, whose flavors, however, are so intense that they make a difference and allow you to handle any circumstance that may arise, and at any time.

Speck A prized product of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Trentino-Alto Adige region, speck is a smoked piece of the hind leg of the pig that is cured, like prosciutto, but is more intensely flavored. The meat is seasoned with salt and spices that include pepper and juniper berries before it cures for a month. It is then smoked and aged for several months to produce the deliciously smoky and flavorful meat. Speck is often sliced thin and served on flatbread. In Trentino-Alto Adige, in addition to accompanying the crisp flatbread SchĂźlttelbrot, it is added to dumplings (canederli) or diced and tossed into a cabbage salad. But anywhere you would use bacon, speck is a smoky alternative.

Fresh Horseradish Prepared horseradish is good, but grated fresh horseradish root (Armoracia rusticana) is more sharp, mustardy, and powerful in both the aroma and heat it can add to a dish, particularly when used raw. The bite lessens when it’s cooked. Look for the knobby horseradish root at the market; its peak season is early spring and late fall, but it is available year-round. Buy firm, mold- and blemishfree roots with no evidence of sprouting. Add to creamy sauces (especially good with fish and beef tenderloin), vinaigrettes, mashed potatoes, and slaws, as well as hearty vegetables like beets. Refrigerate it in an airtight container, and peel and grate it as needed, which will retain its flavor.

Caraway Seed Rye bread lovers know the sharp, nutty, peppery, anise-like flavor that toasted caraway seeds lend to foods. Also similar in flavor to cumin, earthy caraway is a good complement to cabbage, sauerkraut, sausages, soups, and stews, and is the key ingredient in German liqueur Kümmel. Caraway, Carum carvi, is a member of the Apiaceae family of flowering plants, along with parsley, carrots, and celery. Chewing the seeds is thought to help with digestion. When crushed, caraway seeds release their flavor. If you’re putting them in a cooked dish, avoid long heating times, as their flavor may become bitter.

Sauerkraut Sauerkraut at its most basic is simply grated cabbage and salt that has been mixed and allowed to ferment for at least two weeks. In Northern Italy, in the Alpine areas that border Austria, it is often flavored with apples, caraway seeds, and juniper berries, and is served with hearty meats like pork chops, braised beef, and sausages. Fermented foods like sauerkraut, especially when unpasteurized, are recognized for their high fiber and probiotic content, which helps keep the digestive tract healthy. So buy raw sauerkraut if you want the full health benefits. To store, refrigerate in an airtight container.

Almond Flour Made from (and only from) ground whole almonds, almond flour adds texture and a nutty flavor to baked goods. A big plus for those who have a gluten intolerance, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gluten-free. The best way to use almond flour is in recipes that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require a large amount of flour. Because it lacks gluten, almond flour will not allow your baked goods to rise as wheat flour does. Pancakes or brownies are two good uses. Or use part almond-flour, part wheat flour for added texture. Store your almond flour in a sealed container in a cool, dark place (you can refrigerate or freeze it, too), as nut products can go rancid when exposed to light and heat. Bring it to room temperature before using it.

Dried Cannellini Beans A great source of vegetable protein, dried beans are also tasty and economical. They require an overnight or quick soak before cooking with them (which leads many cooks to turn to canned beans), but I find the flavor and texture worth it. You can also control sodium levels when you cook your own. Beans and legumes are the best base for tasty, velvety soups, such as a white bean and escarole, or pasta e fagioli, and they are also great in dips, as a topping for bruschetta, and tossed into salads. Store your dried beans in a container with a tightfitting lid in a cool, dry place.

Preserved Lemons The simple combination of lemons and salt, packed in a tight-fitting canning jar and cured in a cool place for at least a month, offers you a flavor-packed way to enhance so many dishes. Originating with Moroccan and Turkish cooking, where they are a staple in tagines, preserved lemons now brighten many Italian dishes, such as risotto, as well as roasted chicken, grilled fish, and salad dressings. They are sweeter and more tender than fresh lemons. You can buy preserved lemons in most gourmet food shops, but they are easy to make at home. Store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months, turning the jar occasionally to coat the lemons with the liquid.

Sea Salt The evaporation of seawater creates sea salt. Fine-crystal sea salt is best in dishes that require very little cooking time, in cold dishes, and to dress salads, season grilled or sautéed meats and poultry, or to add that last pinch to a dish. When boiling pasta and making soups or sauces, large meat cuts, and roasted and braised poultry, or when marinating meats or vegetables, use coarse-crystal sea salt or rock sea salt, which also have a stronger flavor. Sea salts come in many colors—pink, gray, and black—which indicate their source. They contain more potassium, magnesium, zinc, and other nutrients than table salt.

Frozen Peas Peas are one of the few vegetables whose flavor isn’t lost when frozen. In fact, picking and freezing fresh peas when they’re fully ripe—before their sugars begin to turn to starch—retains the vegetable’s texture and vibrant, sweet flavor. Add frozen peas to soups, to pasta and mixed-vegetable dishes, or purée with a little olive oil to make a delicious spread. They are full of vitamin C, folate, and vitamin B1, and are fiber rich. Plus, they last for months in the freezer.

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IT’S WINE O’CLOCK:

Let’s Celebrate! - By Giuseppe Rosati

A bartender who worked in my family’s

If we move more to the north-center of

restaurant in Gubbio, Umbria, used to say: “Drink

Italy, we will find the Franciacorta area nestled

and smile!” I grew up with this phrase, which

in the province of Brescia, near Milan and Lake

became almost a slogan for me. I have always

Garda. The unique microclimate and terrain

considered a glass of wine to be a moment of

of this geographical area allow the cultivation

festivity, gathering, and joy—a moment to share

of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco

with family, friends, and colleagues. The mere

grapes. In recent years an ancient native grape

gesture of uncorking a bottle brings to me a

called Erbamat has also been reintroduced.

sense of comfort and light-heartedness. A cork

Franciacorta is produced using the traditional

of Franciacorta or Prosecco that “pops” can

méthode champenoise for exquisite wines and

instantly create a positive party atmosphere.

is ideal to accompany important moments or to

simply treat yourself.

We are now in a season of festivities, and

everything around us speaks of anniversaries,

rituals, and celebrations, and Italy offers

making their mark in Italy. They come mainly

a multitude of wines and foods worthy of

from Trentino, a region that also relies on

highlighting these festive moments. While it

traditional techniques and utilizes grapes such as

would be difficult to list all the regional options

Chardonnay, Pinot Nero, and Pinot Bianco.

for wines to match the holidays, we can take a

brief virtual enological tour from northern to

wine areas in Italy, Piedmont. This region is

southern Italy.

rich in great dry wines like Barolo, Barbaresco,

Ghemme, Gattinara, and Arneis. Here one of

Let’s start with a classic wine that can be

However, other sparkling wines are

In the northwest lies one of the most famous

served as an “anytime” drink: Prosecco!

the most excellent holiday wines is produced:

The Prosecco from the northeast of Italy has

Moscato d’Asti, a sparkling, sweet wine with low

grown rapidly in popularity. Thanks to its ease of

alcohol content, made in the province of Asti

drinking, frothy bubbles, and lightness, Prosecco,

from Moscato Giallo grapes. Thanks to its light

produced mainly with Glera grapes, using the

effervescence and sweetness, it is a feast in itself,

Charmat method, has quickly become a point of

although it is also perfect paired with traditional

reference in the world of Italian sparkling wines

desserts like panettone or pandoro.

and beyond. It pairs excellently with raw fish or

light appetizers.

wines for parties and meaningful moments.

Moving towards central Italy, we find many

Tuscany, a great producer of red wines, immediately

reminds us of Tuscan Vin Santo and Vin Santo Occhio

Prosecco del Veneto – Flor

di Pernice. The first one is created from Trebbiano

Franciacorta “Animante” – Barone Pizzini

and Malvasia grapes, and the second from Sangiovese

Trentodoc Brut – Maso Martis

grapes. The Tuscan Vin Santo requires drying of the

Moscato d’Asti – Vignaioli di Santo Stefano

grapes and three years of aging, while the Occhio di

Vin Santo Toscano – Felsina

Pernice (which means “eye of the partridge”) needs ten

Vin Santo “Occhio di Pernice” – Avignonesi

years of aging. Dense and captivating, rich in aromas

Aleatico “Pomele” – Famiglia Cotarella

of honey and figs, Vin Santo matches exquisitely with

Passito di Pantelleria “Ben Rye” – Donnafugata

biscotti), and torroni. Another wine for festivities in

Giuseppe Rosati, a Vinitaly International Ambassador, is owner and partner of G&P Partners.

desserts such as panforte, Tuscan cantucci (almond

lower Tuscany and Lazio is Aleatico, an easy-to-drink, sweet wine that combines well with sweet gingerbread with chocolate and spices.

In one of the most fascinating areas of southern

Italy, Pantelleria, an island in the Mediterranean Sea, between Sicily and Tunisia, we can find equally delightful and complex holiday wines. Il Passito di Pantelleria features a unique and very sweet grape in the Muscat family, called Zibibbo. Thanks to a drying process that enhances its intense and persistent aromas, Zibibbo matches perfectly Sicilian desserts such as cannolo, cassata, and certain cheeses.

As the holidays approach, think about chilling

with some of the wines I suggest, and you will see that celebrating will be even more joyful. Drink and smile!

A few favorites, by name and vintner:

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CELEBRATING AT THE TABLE:

A Family Christmas Dinner

I have very few rules for holiday gatherings,

sweet members of the chicory family and plays

but the first and most important is “the more, the

with the colors of Christmas—a combination of

merrier.” I’m never happier than when my evergreen

red radicchio and green endive, along with walnuts

wreaths are hung, my Christmas tree is decorated

and red and green apples. Then we peel away our

(including the traditional fruit and caramels that

stuffed artichokes, leaf by leaf, lingering over them

I grew up having on my holiday tree), the food is

and scooping up every morsel of stuffing (which, like

cooked, its wonderful aroma is in the air, and I

the bagna cauda, also includes anchovies). In Italian-

am sitting down to a feast that includes the four

American style, I like to really pack my artichokes

generations of my family and as many friends as we

with stuffing, spreading the leaves to squeeze in as

can fit in the house.

much as possible.

I take a lot of time planning the menu for

Fish is symbolic at Christmas, and in addition

Christmas dinner, including many special ingredients

to using it in my bagna cauda and artichokes, I’ve

and dishes, but I still like to keep the cooking fairly

included it in the pasta course. Lobster is so special

uncomplicated. Because, for me and my family, the

anytime, and it lends a sweet balance to a beautifully

meal is not about having something formal; it’s about

spicy sauce (fra diavolo basically means “caught

taking our time at the table, relaxing and enjoying

up with the devil”). The heat comes from small

ourselves and each other while we share stories and

peperoncino rosso, or diavolillo peppers.

laughter and thanks for this day and for each other.

reduction of juices from the meat, plus honey and

With that in mind, I’ve created a menu that’s

The secondo is a duck glazed with the white-wine

holiday-worthy but also fun. Before we’re seated

lemon. Many cooks are intimidated by duck, but

we usually have a glass of Prosecco or white wine

there’s no reason to be. Just make sure, when you

and some appetizers, which always include octopus

roast a whole duck, to place the duck on a rack in the

and potato salad (page 63), shrimp and bean salad,

roasting pan to let the fat drip into the pan. (Also, save

roasted peppers with mozzarella, baccalà mantecato, and a few other items. A favorite of mine is the

warm garlic-and-anchovy dip bagna cauda (which

that delicious fat when you skim it from the sauce, and use it later to fry potatoes or other vegetables.)

For dessert, a chocolate and almond crostata

literally means “warm bath”). It is such a flavorful

is just enough richness to end the meal, but I make it

accompaniment for raw and just-blanched vegetables

extra special with the addition of intensely flavored

like potatoes, green beans, cauliflower, celery, and, if

and deliciously sweet preserved cherries in both the

you can find them, cardoons, which is a tradition in

filling and topping. Chocolate desserts are my family’s

Piedmont, where bagna cauda originated.

favorites, so with this crostata I can give them the best

of the flavor they love. That’s what the holiday table is

When we take our places around the table,

we start with a salad that harmonizes bitter and

all about. 29

Warm Garlic-Anchovy Dip Bagna Cauda Bagna cauda is one of Piemonte’s best-known dishes. The name means “warm bath,” and that’s what it is: a sauce of garlic, butter, oil, and anchovy heated in a deep earthenware container set on the table over a little flame, like a fondue pot. While cardoons are the traditional accompaniment in Piemonte, I’ve listed a variety of easily accessible vegetables that I enjoy with bagna cauda at home. Feel free to use what you like and what’s in season. This is a great starter on the table or for a buffet. Add some cubes of the crusty bread to the platter for sopping up the last drops. To make more sauce for a crowd, simply multiply the ingredient amounts given in the recipe.

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients Kosher salt 8 ounces fingerling potatoes 4 ounces thin green beans, trimmed 4 to 6 plump garlic cloves, crushed and peeled ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 10 to 12 anchovy fillets 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 celery stalks, cut in ¼-inch sticks 1 medium carrot, cut in ¼-inch sticks 12 baby bell peppers, halved and seeded 1 small bulb fennel, quartered, cored,

and cut into slices

1 cup raw cauliflower florets 1 red endive, trimmed and separated into spears Crusty bread, cut or torn into chunks, for serving

Recipe

Put the potatoes in a large saucepan with salted

water to cover by several inches. Bring to a simmer; cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 12 minutes. Add the green beans and cook until they’re crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes more. Drain and add the potatoes and green beans to a bowl of ice water to cool quickly. Pat very dry and arrange on a platter large enough to fit all of the vegetables.

With a mortar and pestle or in a mini-chopper,

mash the garlic cloves and 1 tablespoon of olive oil into a smooth paste and transfer to a small bowl. Mash (or chop) the anchovy fillets into a smooth paste. (Alternatively, chop the garlic and anchovies by hand.)

Put the garlic in a small saucepan with the butter

and set over low heat or a tabletop heat source. Cook slowly until the garlic is thoroughly softened and melted in the butter, about 5 minutes. Stir in the anchovies and the remaining olive oil, mashing the anchovies with the back of a spoon until thoroughly disintegrated.

When the bagna cauda is piping hot, whisk the

sauce briefly to blend and emulsify. Serve in a small fondue pot with the vegetables and bread on the platter for dipping.

Radicchio, Endive, and Walnut Salad Insalata di radicchio, indivia belga e noci If you want to make this salad a few hours in advance, you can whisk the dressing in the bowl. Add the greens and nuts on top, so they won’t get soggy. Slice the apples and chop the chives right before you toss and serve.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients ¼ cup white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large head radicchio, torn into bite-sized pieces 4 heads Belgian endive, trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1-inch pieces 2 apples (1 red and 1 green), halved, cored, and thinly sliced ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted ¼ cup coarsely chopped chives

Recipe

Whisk the vinegar and mustard in a large salad

bowl. Whisk in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream to make a smooth, thick dressing. Season the dressing with salt and pepper.

Add the radicchio, endive, apples, walnuts, and

chives and toss well. Serve immediately.

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Recipe

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Grate 1

teaspoon of zest from one of the lemons and set the zest aside. Squeeze the juice from the lemons and pour about half the juice into a large bowl of cold water, adding the squeezed-out lemon halves. Reserve the remaining lemon juice. Prepare one artichoke at a time. Begin by plucking off the stiff outer leaves until you get to the lighter colored,

Stuffed Artichokes Carciofi ripieni While serving each guest a whole plump, crispy stuffed artichoke is indeed a holiday treat, you can halve the artichokes and serve a half to each guest if this is part of a larger, more casual holiday meal.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 3 lemons 6 large artichokes 1 ½ cups fine dried bread crumbs ½ cup grated Grana Padano 2 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped 2 scallions, chopped ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley 2 anchovy fillets, chopped fine 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped ½ teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Sicilian oregano on the branch 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

tender leaves. Trim the stem (if the stems are fresh, peel and add to the water; you can cook them along with the artichokes) so the base is flush and, with a paring knife, trim any tough green spots from the base of the artichoke. With a serrated knife, cut the top third off the artichoke. Push the leaves back to expose the inner choke and scrape it out with a teaspoon. Put the artichoke in the bowl of lemon water and repeat with the remaining artichokes.

Combine the bread crumbs, grated cheese,

eggs, scallions, 2 tablespoons of the parsley, the anchovies, garlic, oregano and reserved lemon zest in a large bowl. Drizzle with half of the olive oil and toss with a fork to combine and moisten the crumbs.

Remove the cleaned artichokes from the

water and drain very well. Gently spread the leaves open from the center so that as much stuffing as possible fits between the leaves. Dividing the stuffing evenly among the artichokes and using the palm of one hand, work the stuffing between the artichoke leaves and into the center where the choke was. (You may not need all the stuffing to fill the artichokes. If you have any left over, you may use it as described below to make a thicker sauce.) Arrange the artichokes in a 9-by-13-inch ceramic or glass baking dish. Tuck the reserved stems in between the artichokes, if using. Pour enough hot water into the dish to cover the bottom third of the artichokes. Season water with salt and remaining olive oil and lemon juice. Dot the tops of the artichokes with the butter. Cover the dish tightly with foil and bake until the leaves are tender when pierced with a paring knife, 30 to 45 minutes.

Uncover the dish and bake until the top of the

stuffing is browned and crusty and an outer leaf is easy to pluck from the artichoke, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the artichokes to serving bowls. Stir the remaining parsley into the sauce and spoon around the artichokes. 34

Lobster Fra Diavolo with Spaghetti Aragosta Fra Diavolo con spaghetti

tail in half in the same way. Cut off the antennae and eyes with the shears and scrape out the digestive sac located inside the shell behind the eyes. Pull out the dark vein that runs along the tail, but leave the tomalley—the pale green mass close to the tail—intact, if desired. (It adds wonderful

Yield Serves 6

flavor to the sauce.) Repeat with the remaining lobsters.

In a wide, heavy skillet, heat 1 cup of the

vegetable oil over medium heat. Pat the lobster

Ingredients 3 (1 ¼ pounds each) live lobsters Kosher salt Vegetable oil, as needed All-purpose flour for dredging ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 8 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 2 (28-ounce) cans whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand ½ teaspoon peperoncino, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Sicilian dried on the branch 1 pound spaghetti ¼ cup chopped fresh basil

pieces dry with paper towels. Dredge the meat side of the bodies lightly in flour and add as many of them cut side down as fit comfortably in the skillet. Cook until the lobster meat is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and repeat with the remaining lobster body pieces, if necessary, adding more oil to the pan as needed. When all the lobster bodies have been browned, add the claws to the pan and cook, turning them with long-handled tongs, until the shells turn bright red on all sides, about 4 minutes.

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a

wide, deep braising pan large enough to hold all the lobster pieces. Add the garlic and cook, shaking the pan, until the garlic is lightly browned, about 1 minute. Pour in the tomatoes; add the

Recipe

Place the lobsters in the freezer to stun them

for about 30 minutes before beginning.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for

the spaghetti.

Use a large chef’s knife. Put the tip of the

knife on each lobster’s head, about 2 inches or so back from the eyes. Push the knife straight down, then through to split between the eyes. Hold the lobster with a towel where the claws meet the body, and twist to remove the claws. Cut off the legs with kitchen shears. Whack the claws with a meat mallet just hard enough to crack the shells. With the shears, make a cut along one side of the joints attached to the claws. (Cracking the claws and cutting the joints will make it easier to remove the meat from the shell after the lobster is cooked.)

Lay one of the lobsters on a cutting board

with the tail stretched out. Cut the lobster in half by taking a firm hold of the tail and inserting a heavy, sharp knife where the tail meets the head section. Bring the knife down to the cutting board in a swift motion, cutting the body cleanly in half. Turn the knife in the other direction and cut the

peperoncino and dried oregano and season lightly with salt. Bring to a boil and adjust the heat to a lively simmer. Simmer until thickened, about 10 minutes.

Add the lobster pieces to the sauce. Cook at a

lively simmer just until the lobster meat is cooked through and juicy, about 5 minutes. If the sauce becomes too dense as it simmers, ladle a little of the pasta cooking water into the pan. Keep the sauce and lobster warm over very low heat.

Meanwhile, stir the spaghetti into the boiling

water. Cook until al dente; drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water, and return the pasta to the pot. Ladle most of the lobster sauce over the pasta, leaving just enough sauce behind in the pan to keep the lobster pieces moist. Bring the sauce and pasta to a boil, add the basil and a drizzle of olive oil. Toss to coat the pasta with the sauce, adding a little pasta water if it seems dry. Check the seasoning, adding salt and more peperoncino, if needed.

Divide the pasta among 6 pasta bowls. Top

each with a lobster body half and a claw. Spoon some of the sauce remaining in the pan over each and serve immediately. 37

Roasted Duck Legs with Honey and Lemon Cosce d’anatra arrosto con miele e limone Save and render the excess fat from the duck skin you trim. You can render it down in a small pot to make cracklings—and you’ll have some delicious duck fat for sautéing potatoes. If you’re making this recipe as part of a larger meal with multiple courses, you can cut the legs at the joint into 2 portions each before serving.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 2 tablespoons crumbled dried porcini 2 teaspoon fennel seeds 2 teaspoons kosher salt 6 duck legs, excess fat trimmed and reserved 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 3 small onions, quartered and attached at the root end 1 cup dry white wine 1 ½ cups chicken stock, plus more as needed 1 to 2 tablespoons honey 1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Recipe

Grind the porcini and fennel seeds in a spice

grinder. Combine with the salt in a small bowl. Rub the salt mixture all over the duck and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Pour the olive oil in a large, low-sided braising

pan over medium heat. Add the duck legs, skin side down. Cook the duck pieces, moving them occasionally so they don’t stick, until the skin is very brown and crisp, about 15 minutes. Turn the duck, adding the rosemary and onion pieces in the spaces in the pan, and brown the other side of the duck, about 6 to 8 minutes. Turn the duck skin side down once more and re-crisp the skin, about 5 minutes more. Remove the duck pieces and pour all but a thin film of fat from the pan.

Add the duck back to the pan, skin side up. Pour

the wine into the pan and increase the heat to reduce the wine by half, about 3 minutes. Add the stock, adjust heat, cover, and let the duck simmer until the pieces are tender, about 20 minutes.

Remove the duck pieces to a platter. Bring the

sauce to a boil and add 1 tablespoon each of honey and lemon juice. Reduce the sauce until lightly syrupy, about 2 minutes. Adjust the seasonings with additional honey, lemon juice, and salt, if needed. Return the duck legs and turn to coat in the sauce before serving.

Recipe

For the dough, combine the flour, sugar,

baking powder, and salt in a food processor. Pulse just to combine. Scatter in the butter pieces and

Chocolate and Almond Crostata with Cherries

pulse until the butter is the size of peas. Combine

Crostata alle mandorle e cioccolato con ciliegie

crumbs. (Add a little more water if the dough is

This moist, rich tart is just right as is, but you can also dust the finished dessert with confectioners’ sugar, for a sweet final touch.

Yield Serves 8

Ingredients for the tart dough 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 8 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 2 large egg yolks

Ingredients for the filling 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ cup sugar 2 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk ½ cup jarred amarena cherries, plus 1 tablespoon syrup 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 ⅓ cups ground almond flour 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 4 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled slightly

Ingredients for the topping 1 cup chilled heavy cream 2 tablespoons syrup from jarred amarena cherries

the egg yolks and 2 tablespoons cold water in a small bowl and pour over the flour mixture. Pulse just until the dough comes together in loose too crumbly, or a little more flour if it is too wet.) Mound the dough on a work surface and knead a few times to make a cohesive dough. Wrap in plastic and flatten into a disk. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Let rest on the work surface for 10 minutes before you begin to roll.

Roll the dough between 2 pieces of floured

parchment into a circle about 10 to 11 inches in diameter. Transfer the dough to a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press the crust up the sides, trimming it flush with the edge of the pan. Refrigerate the tart shell while you preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Line the tart shell with parchment and dried

beans or pie weights. Bake until the dough is set but not colored, about 14 minutes. Remove the parchment and beans and bake until very light golden, 4 to 5 minutes more. Cool.

Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F.

For the filling, combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat until light and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the whole eggs, then the yolk, one at a time. Beat on high until thoroughly combined, about 1 minute. Beat in the amarena syrup and vanilla. Add both flours and beat on low until combined. Add the melted chocolate and beat on low just until combined.

Pour the filling into the tart shell and smooth

with the back of a spoon. Press in the cherries, scattering them evenly. Bake on the bottom rack of the oven until the tart is slightly puffed and set, about 20 minutes. Let cool on a rack.

For the topping, whisk the cream (by hand

or with a mixer) in a large bowl until foamy. Add the cherry syrup and beat to soft peaks. Cut into wedges and serve with the cherry whipped cream.

KEEPING IT LIGHT:

The Crunch Factor

Amid all the stews, soups, braised meats, and other comfort

foods we eat at this time of year, we still need a little crunch in our meals. That snap of a fresh fruit or vegetable, or the crunch of a baked topping, lends a much-needed contrast of texture, and something light and refreshing to balance the more hearty dishes.

Root vegetables, such as potatoes and carrots, and fall apples

that we’ve picked and stored for the winter or bought at the market, are often on the menu. While a carrot purée or an apple pie are delicious, I like to serve these two ingredients fresh and together in a crisp salad, sprinkled with a little olive oil and orange juice. Granny Smith or other tart apple varieties play well with the sweetness of carrots. If you want to make the salad colorful, go for heirloom-variety carrots in purple, red, and yellow hues. Smoked meats, such as trout, duck, or ham, or a pork tenderloin go especially well with this dish, and the protein makes this salad a meal.

Another way I add a little crunch to my winter meals is with a

lighter version of stuffed peppers. Instead of using ground pork in my stuffing, as I often do, I use a mixture of vegetables, cheese, and bread or a grain like barley that crisps up so beautifully when baked. It’s my salute to the Italian region of Liguria, where stuffed vegetables (ripieni all’Antica) of all kinds are a tradition, especially in Genoa.

When Ligurians immigrated to the U.S., especially to New Jersey, the Garden State, they took advantage of this ideal place to grow vegetables to carry on the tradition of stuffing in their new homes. Give it a try, for a healthy meatless main dish—with crunch.

Barley and Vegetable Stuffed Peppers Peperoni ripieni di orzo e verdure Make these peppers when you want to use up vegetables from your fridge (the ones I’ve used here are just a guideline). Instead of barley you can use day-old bread (soaked in milk and squeezed out) or another grain like quinoa or rice. As a hearty side dish or lunch, this serves 6, or for a satisfying vegetarian dinner entréee, serve 2 pepper halves each. To get 1 ½ cups cooked barley, start with ½ cup dried barley. To cook, you can boil it, like pasta, in salted water, about 25 to 30 minutes for al dente.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 3 large bell peppers, preferably one red, one yellow, one orange ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 ounces mixed mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped (cremini, shiitake, chanterelle, oyster, whatever you like) 1 medium zucchini, diced 2 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped 4 loosely packed cups baby spinach 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary 1 cup grated low-moisture mozzarella ½ cup grated Grana Padano 1 ½ cups cooked barley ⅓ cup pitted Gaeta olives, chopped 1 bunch scallions, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 1 large egg, beaten ⅓ cup fine dry bread crumbs ½ cup dry white wine Warmed marinara sauce, for serving

Recipe

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Halve the

peppers through the stems. Remove and discard the stems and seeds. Toss the peppers with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and season with salt and pepper. 44

Heat 2 more tablespoons of olive oil in a large

skillet over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, without stirring, until browned on the undersides, about 3 minutes. Stir and cook until browned all over, about 2 minutes more. Reduce the heat to medium, add the zucchini, and cook until wilted, about 6 minutes. Add the tomatoes and spinach and cook until the spinach is wilted and the tomatoes just start to break down, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and rosemary and cook until fragrant, 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and let cool slightly. Toss together the mozzarella and Grana Padano in a small bowl.

Add the barley, olives, scallions, parsley, and

egg to the bowl with the vegetables and mix well. Add about two thirds of the cheese mixture and all the bread crumbs. Mix well to form a cohesive stuffing. Divide the stuffing evenly between the peppers and sprinkle the tops with the remaining cheese mixture. Drizzle with olive oil. Pour the wine in the bottom of the baking dish. Cover the baking dish with foil, tenting it so it doesn’t touch the stuffing and bake until peppers are tender, about 30 minutes. Uncover and bake until the stuffing is crisp and golden, 15 to 20 minutes more. Serve topped with marinara sauce.

Pork Tenderloin with Carrot and Apple Salad Filetto di maiale con insalata di carote e mele This carrot-and-apple salad is not only delicious by itself but is also a great platform for a roast pork tenderloin or smoked meats or fish, such as trout, salmon, duck breast, and ham. Serve the proteins alongside the salad and you have a great appetizer or meal. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a sandwich stuffer as well; instead of using mayonnaise or other fatty dressings, use this juicy salad. It is especially good on a sandwich of sliced turkey, chicken, or ham.

Yield Serves 4

Ingredients Zest and juice of 1 orange 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon dry mustard powder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large pork tenderloin (about 1 Âź pounds) 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 large carrots, peeled and julienned (about 2 cups) 2 Granny Smith apples, skin on, julienned (about 2 cups) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

Recipe

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Combine the

orange zest, coriander, mustard powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and a generous grinding of black pepper in a small bowl. Rub the mixture all over the pork.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large

skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the pork and sear on all sides, about 6 minutes. In a roasting pan, roast the pork in the oven until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reads 145 degrees F, about 15 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes.

While the pork rests, toss the carrots and apples

in a salad bowl with the orange juice and remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle with the parsley, season with salt and pepper, and toss again. Thinly slice the pork and serve with the carrot and apple salad.

LIDIA ENTERTAINS:

Holiday Brunch

They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day. That

may be true, especially when you have a houseful of hungry guests. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s an opportunity to start the day off on a delicious note and put everybody in a good mood.

The day after a big holiday like Christmas, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to sleep in

a little and then gather in the late morning for brunch. I like to have a couple of recipes where I can make at least some of the elements ahead, so that assembling a salad, mixing drinks, and putting the coffee on are about all I have to do.

A polenta-and-egg casserole is a terrific solution for brunch.

To make it even more substantial I like to add plenty of peppers, two kinds of cheese, and sweet sausage. I learned to cook polenta from my grandmother Rosa, who made batches (always using yellow stone-ground cornmeal from corn we grew) in a big cast-iron or brass cauldron over a fire, stirring it slowly with a large wooden spatula as it bubbled and popped. I still make polenta in the same way (although not in a cauldron in the fireplace) and think of Nonna every time.

With the creaminess of the polenta dish, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nice to serve a

crunchy salad. Shaved fennel, celery, and red onion fit the bill.

For those who enjoy a brunch cocktail, I mix a batch of spicy

Calabrese-style Bloody Marys. The key ingredient is the Bomba di Calabria chile paste made from the little red hornlike peppers that grow in the region and that you can see made into garlands and hung to dry at seemingly every house in Calabria. The peppers can also be eaten whole and are available in powdered and crushed form. In this case, the paste takes the usual blend of ingredients to a deliciously spicy place.

For that little something to nibble on with espresso, I bake

almond biscotti (almonds thrive in Puglia and Sicily, especially).

Torrone (Italian nougat) adds another layer of toasted-almond flavor, and a sweet chewiness, and some orange zest supplies a bright note.

Polenta, Sausage, and Egg Breakfast Casserole Colazione in casseruola con polenta, salsiccia e uova This cheesy egg-and-polenta bake is just the thing for a cozy holiday brunch. If you’d like to speed things along, you can use instant polenta, which takes just a few minutes to cook, but if you have time, the texture of long-cooked polenta can’t be beat. You can make the sausage-and-pepper mixture ahead, if you like.

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish Kosher salt 1 cup medium-ground polenta ½ cup grated Grana Padano 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 links sweet italian sausage, removed from casings (about 8 ounces) 1 red bell pepper, sliced 1 medium onion, sliced Peperoncino 1 cup grated Italian fontina 8 large eggs ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves

Recipe

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Butter a 9-by-

13-inch baking dish. Bring 4 ½ cups of water with 1 teaspoon salt to a simmer in a large saucepan. Once the water is simmering, gradually whisk in the polenta. Whisk until the water returns to a simmer, then switch to a wooden spoon. Cook, stirring frequently, until the polenta is thick and creamy, about 25 to 30 minutes. Stir in ¼ cup grated Grana Padano and the butter. Spread in the prepared baking dish. Make 8 indentations in the polenta with the back of a spoon (you’ll be cracking the eggs in here shortly).

Heat a large skillet over medium heat and

add the olive oil. Crumble in the sausage and cook, breaking into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until no longer pink, about 4 minutes. Add the bell pepper and onion. Season with salt and peperoncino. Cook until crisp-tender, about 4 minutes.

Break the eggs into the spaces in the polen-

ta. Distribute the sausage-and-pepper mixture around the eggs. Sprinkle with the grated fontina and remaining grated Grana Padano. Bake until the egg whites are set but the yolks are still runny, about 14 minutes. Scatter the basil over the top just before serving.

Shaved Fennel, Endive, Celery, and Red Onion Salad Insalata di finocchio, indivia, sedano, e cipolla rossa This salad comes together in a flash and is the perfect light accompaniment to my breakfast casserole or a baked pasta.

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Recipe

In a large bowl, combine the fennel bulb

(but not the fronds), celery (but not the leaves), endive, and red onion.

Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil,

and season with salt and pepper. Toss well to coat all of the ingredients with the dressing. Sprinkle with the chopped fennel fronds, celery leaves, and parsley and toss lightly.

Ingredients 2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise, plus ½ cup chopped fronds (use a mandoline, if you have one, to shave the fennel) 4 large celery stalks, trimmed, peeled, and thinly sliced on the bias, plus ½ cup celery leaves 2 heads endive, thinly sliced crosswise on the bias ½ medium red onion, thinly sliced Juice of 1 large lemon, freshly squeezed ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup fresh Italian parsley leaves

Spicy Bloody Mary Bloody Mary piccante This makes enough for a pitcher of Bloody Marys. The mix can be made ahead and chilled, so all you have to do is stir in the vodka when your guests arrive. Round out the beverage selection with a variety of juices and flavored sparkling waters so your guests can make their own juice spritzers.

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients 3 cups tomato juice 3 tablespoons lime juice 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons peperoncini brine 2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 teaspoon Calabrian chili paste, or more to taste Â˝ teaspoon celery salt 8 ounces chilled vodka Whole pickled peperoncini, for garnish Celery stalks, for garnish Stuffed green olives, for garnish

Recipe

Combine the tomato juice, lime

juice, lemon juice, peperoncini brine, horseradish, Worcestershire, chili paste, and celery salt in a large pitcher. Chill at least 1 hour to blend the flavors.

When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready to serve, stir in the

vodka. Serve the drinks over ice, with the garnishes of your choice.

Torrone Biscotti Biscotti al torrone

Yield Makes about 3 dozen biscotti

Ingredients 2 ¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour, plus more for forming the dough 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature ¾ cup sugar 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons amaretto 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Zest of 1 small orange ¾ cup coarsely chopped pistachios ½ cup chopped torrone

Recipe

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking

distributing the pistachios and torrone into the

sheet with parchment paper. Whisk 2 ¼ cups flour,

dough with a mixer, you can knead it on a floured

the baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and nutmeg

countertop by hand.)

together in a medium bowl.

form into 2 (12-by-1 ½-inch logs), spaced about 3

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with

Divide the dough into two equal pieces and

the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar

inches apart. Bake until the logs have risen and the

on medium-high speed until light, 2 to 3 minutes.

dough is set, about 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from

Add the eggs, amaretto, vanilla, and orange zest.

the oven and let cool on a cutting board just until

Beat to combine. Add the flour mixture, reduce

you can handle them. Reduce oven temperature to

the heat to low, and beat just to form a dough. Add

300 degrees F. Use a serrated knife to slice the logs

the pistachios. Toss the chopped torrone in a small

at ¾-inch intervals and arrange on the baking sheet.

bowl with the remaining 1 tablespoon flour. Add

Bake until golden and crisp all the way through,

the pistachios and torrone to the dough and mix

flipping the pieces halfway through, about 20 to 25

on low just to distribute. (If you have a difficult time

minutes. Cool completely on a rack before serving. 53

ITALIAN-AMERICAN FAVORITES:

Baked Ziti and Banana Peppers

When we look at the history of Italian-American food, we can easily

connect the dots between many of the most loved dishes and southern Italy, where the vast majority of immigrants to the United States came from. Between 1880 and 1924, more than 4 million Italians came to America, seeking jobs, land to farm, and a new life for their families. Four out of five were from the regions of Calabria, Campania, Abruzzo, Molise, and Sicily.

With these southern Italians came pasta dishes made al forno (baked),

which were a specialty of their regions. They were often made with vegetables, since meat was rarely available. One of my favorites is the tomato- and eggplantrich baked ziti with creamy ricotta cheese.

When Italians in America wanted to have a taste of home, they had

to make some adjustments. While they could find eggplants and tomatoes

(although not the delicious San Marzanos), real Italian ricotta salata (pressed, salted, and aged ricotta, which was sprinkled over the top of the dish) or fresh sheep’s-milk or goat’s-milk ricotta was hard, if not impossible, to come by. So they made do with the ricotta they could find (mostly made from cow’s milk), or could more simply make themselves. The pasta varies from cook to cook, but

it’s typically a short variety—I like ziti for the way its tubular shape and surface ridges invite the sauce to envelop it.

Another southern Italian gift to American cooking is the super-mild

banana pepper (also known as the wax pepper). Readily available in markets, the peppers are perfect for frying (as is its look-alike the Cubanelle pepper, which is spicier) with onions and layering on good crusty bread. Time was, sandwiches of banana peppers that had been marinated in olive oil and garlic, then fried, were a lunch staple for Italian-American working men. Try them in an antipasto, or, sprinkled with a bit of vinegar, as a side for grilled chicken or fish. Or go the salad route, combining the fried peppers with cooked Russet potatoes, garlic, red onion, salt, peperoncino flakes, and red-wine vinegar—it’s a true taste of Calabria!

Baked Ziti with Eggplant and Ricotta Ziti alla Norma If you are able to purchase the smaller Italian eggplants, you can cook them without salting them. If you can only get larger eggplants with lots of seeds, salt the cut pieces and let them drain for an hour in a colander. Rinse well and pat dry before beginning the recipe.

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Ingredients Kosher salt 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing the baking dish 2 small Italian eggplant (about 1 pound total) Vegetable oil, as needed 1 medium onion, chopped 1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand Âź teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 pound ziti Âź cup fresh basil leaves, shredded 1 cup fresh ricotta 1 cup grated provolone Âź cup grated Grana Padano

Recipe

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the

pasta. Brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with olive oil. Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Use a vegetable peeler to remove vertical stripes from the eggplant. Cut the eggplant into 1 inch cubes.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-

high heat. Add enough vegetable oil to film the bottom of the pan. Add half of the eggplant and season with salt. Cook, tossing occasionally, until browned and almost tender, 6 to 7 minutes. Repeat with the remaining eggplant. Carefully pour the oil out of the skillet and wipe it clean with a paper towel.

Return the skillet to medium heat. Add the

olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, red pepper flakes and 1 cup water. Season with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook until slightly thickened, about 10 minutes, adding the eggplant cubes in the last 5 minutes. Stir in the basil.

Meanwhile, add the ziti to the boiling water

and cook until al dente. Drain and return to the cooking pot. When the sauce is ready, pour over the pasta and toss to combine. Add the ricotta and stir gently to distribute. Transfer the pasta to the oiled baking dish. Combine the provolone and Grana Padano in a small bowl and sprinkle over the pasta. Bake the pasta until browned and bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes.

Recipe

Fried Banana Peppers and Onions

Friggitelli e cipolle

the peppers are browned and blistered, about

These mild peppers make a great addition to an antipasti spread, served simply with grilled bread as a vehicle for sopping up the delicious juices. They’re also a good frittata filling or a topping for grilled chicken or fish. I’ve even been known to use them as a base for a room-temperature seafood salad, dressed with lemon juice and more olive oil.

Yield Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed 8 banana or Cubanelle peppers 1 medium red onion, cut into ½-inch-thick rings ½ teaspoon dried oregano Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper Grilled bread, for serving

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add

the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the peppers in one layer and weight down with another large, heavy skillet. Cook until the underside of 4 minutes. Turn the peppers, weight again, and brown and blister the second side, about 4 minutes more. Remove the peppers with tongs to a bowl to cool.

Return the skillet to medium-high heat. Add

the onion rings in one layer to the oil remaining in the pan. Weight and cook until charred on the underside, about 2 minutes. Flip the rings and weight and char the second side. Remove skillet from heat. Let the onions cool in the pan while you peel the peppers.

Remove the skin from the peppers. Remove

the seeds and stems and cut lengthwise into thick strips (about an inch thick). Put the pepper strips in a large bowl. Separate the onions into single rings and add to the bowl, along with the olive oil and cooking juices left in the pan. Add the dried oregano. Toss to combine and season with salt and pepper.

Spread the peppers on a rimmed serving

platter. Serve with grilled bread on the side.

THE IMPORTANCE

OF BEING

ITALIAN Italian cuisine is a culinary adventure that begins with tradition and authentic products. It continues to evolve and becomes enriched with memories that are made at the table. Grandmothersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; recipes focus on simple, healthy and flavorful ingredients and techniques that continue to inspire children and adults for generations.

For me, with roots in Istria, certain foods speak to me more

personally than others, because they are woven into memories of childhood and of the people I love. Yet the more I have traveled around Italy and tasted each region’s unique ingredients and recipes, the more my table has become Italian in a larger sense, embracing the dishes that originated far from my home.

Octopus is one of my favorite seafoods, especially as it’s used in

recipes from coastal regions of Liguria, Campania, and Sicily, where it is fished and cooked in the markets by vendors (polipari) who

serve it just hours after being hauled from the sea. My uncle Emilio also fished for octopus, and our family often put his catch to work in an octopus-and-potato salad (insalata di polipo e patate, page 63), a

very simple preparation that includes olive oil, red wine vinegar, red onion, and a few herbs. It’s a dish that originated on the coasts and was eventually served throughout the country. It’s such a favorite that I put it on the menu of all of my restaurants, and on the family table at every holiday meal—my children and grandchildren are crazy about it.

I also love gnocchi, most often making it the traditional way,

with potato, and shaping the dough into little pillows. In Rome, and elsewhere in northern Italy, however, gnocchi are often made with semolina flour. The yellow durum-wheat semolina gives these gnocchi a nutty flavor and distinct texture. The dough is cooked, like polenta, into a porridge before it is cooled and cut into rounds. In the Roman style, the gnocchi are then baked into a kind of gratiné with butter and Grana Padano and Taleggio cheeses that produce a wonderful golden-brown top crust. As far as comfort foods go, this gnocchi is high on the list. And in cooking our way around the country, from inland and seacoast, from north and south and in between, we learn to savor the subtle regional differences that together make Italy a rich mosaic.

Roman-Style Semolina Gnocchi Gnocchi alla romana

Yield Serves 6 to 8

Recipe

For the gnocchi, put the milk, butter, and salt in a medium

saucepan. Set over medium heat, stir occasionally until the milk is hot and the butter melted, then gradually pour in the semolina, whisking steadily. Cook slowly over low heat. The mixture will thicken quickly. Stir with a wooden spoon until the mixture pulls away from the sides of the pan and is very difficult to stir, about 15 minutes. Stir in the Grana Padano

Ingredients for the gnocchi 5 cups milk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for pan 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 ½ cups coarse semolina flour ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano 2 large egg yolks

Ingredients for the sauce 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup grated Grana Padano 6 ounces grated fontina or Taleggio (about 1 ½ cups)

until melted, then stir in the egg yolks. Scrape and pour the hot semolina into an even ½-inch layer in the middle of a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Let cool, then refrigerate until firm.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Generously butter a 9-by-

13-inch baking dish with a tablespoon of the butter. For the sauce, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in a small saucepan. Cut the semolina into 2-inch squares and layer, points up (so the squares look like diamonds), overlapping in the baking dish. Drizzle with the melted butter. Combine the grated Grana Padano and the fontina or Taleggio in a bowl and sprinkle evenly over the gnocchi. Bake the gnocchi for 25 to 30 minutes or until the butter is bubbling in the pan and the top is a beautiful golden brown. Let rest for 10 minutes to settle before serving.

Octopus and Potato Salad Insalata di polipo e patate

Recipe

Place the octopus in a pot where it will fit snugly. Add

the bay leaves and cold water to cover. Season the water This salad can be made in advance, but just keep

with 2 teaspoons salt and several grinds of black pepper.

in mind that the potatoes get hard and waxy when

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and cook the octopus

refrigerated, so refrigerate the octopus but leave the

at a vigorous simmer until tender, at least 1 hour. (Test

potatoes at room temperature. I recommend russet

periodically by inserting the tines of a fork into the thickest

potatoes, but you can use Red Bliss, fingerlings, or

part of the octopus. It is done when the fork penetrates

purple Peruvian potatoes if you like.

easily and is removed with only a little resistance.)

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients

Meanwhile, cover the potatoes with cold water in a second pot, and bring to a boil. Cook until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, peel while still warm, and cut them into 1-inch cubes. Put the potatoes in a large bowl.

Drain the octopus, discarding the bay leaves. Cut the

1 (2- to 3-pound) octopus

tentacles away where they join the head. Clean the octopus

2 fresh bay leaves

head, which looks like a pouch the size of your fist, by

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

squeezing out the core with your fingers, and cut the meat

2 large russet potatoes (about 1 Â˝ pounds)

into thin slices. Cut the tentacles into inch-long pieces,

1 small red onion, thinly sliced

and toss the octopus pieces with the warm potatoes. Add

1 cup drained artichoke quarters in brine

the red onions and artichokes, drizzle with the olive oil

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

and vinegar, and toss well. Season with salt and pepper.

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Sprinkle with the parsley leaves, toss and serve.

Âź cup fresh parsley leaves

Selva in Val Gardena

Discovering Val Gardena

To travel to the northeastern region of

Trentino-Alto Adige is to travel to another Italy. Bordering Switzerland and Austria, and home to the spectacularly beautiful Dolomite Mountains, part of the Northern Italian Alps, it is known as the South Tyrol and has absorbed German culture, reflected in its love for mountain sports and for hearty, rustic, and very delicious food.

When my son Joe was just a baby, we first

explored the small mountainside villages across the region on a road trip through the Alps that had started in Germany, and our family has returned many times since. Tanya and her family have gone skiing, staying in the town of Ortisei for the past 15 years. I have been so taken with the capital city of Bolzano, the beautiful pastures of the Asiago High Plateau (where Asiago cheese is made), and with the charming towns in the valleys where you can snack on a plate of smoky

cured speck with a flatbread, called Schüttelbrot, after a hike through meadows of wildflowers.

One of these valleys, the Val Gardena, in the

southeastern part of Trentino-Alto Adige, combines the best of the region. Surrounded by the Dolomite range, which in 2009 was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Val Gardena invites you to ski in winter, at the 12 skiing areas in the region called the Dolomiti Superski, and to hike those same soaring mountains and soak in the striking views in summer. The villages throughout the valley are warm and welcoming, each with its own character.

The largest village, Ortisei, is surrounded by the jagged

peaks of the the Resciesa, Seceda, and Alpe di Siusi, which starts with the Schlern, the mountain depicted on the Loacker cookie package. Wood carving has been a revered Ortisei

tradition in the region since the 17th century, and Ortisei’s town center is filled with shops, such as the famous Demetz Patrick, where artisans sell intricately hand-carved clocks, religious icons, scenes from nature, and animal and human sculptures. There is even an annual arts fair, UNIKA, at the end of August, that shines a spotlight on wood carvers from across the region. There is also a long tradition of making and crafting fabrics and lace, and in Ortisei you’ll find artisanally made loden wool and felt, along with linen tablecloths, bed linens, and curtains.

From Ortisei, a funicular can whisk you to the top of

Resciesa, part of the Puez-Odle Nature Park, where you can have a bite at the mountaintop restaurant. Or you can climb into an egg-shaped gondola called the ovovia, to reach the Alpe di Siusi (called the Seiser Alm in German), Europe’s 66

Dolomite Mountains

largest high-alpine meadow. There, winter’s cross-country trails are also used for running and hiking when the snow melts. The Tyrolean Grey, a traditional breed of dairy cattle, grazes in the mountain pastures in spring and summer and produces the wonderful sweet milk that local Malga raw-milk cheeses are made from. At rustic mountain huts, malghe, you can sample these

freshly made cheeses or sometimes even watch the cheese being made. In the winter months, many of the malghe do double duty as restaurants serving warming dishes like polenta and local cheese or the sweet sugar-sprinkled dessert crêpes called

kaiserschmarrn, served with a fruit compote.

Other cow’s-milk cheeses produced in surrounding valleys are also offered in neighboring Val Gardena: Trentigrana (DOP), produced only in Trento, stands out from other Grana cheeses with its distinctive flavor and aroma. Puzzone di Moena, which means “tasty cheese” in the Ladin language, has a strong flavor and aroma that has it dubbed “Stinky Moena”. Another favorite from the region is a Val Gardena

semi-hard Fontal di Cavalese, a mix of Fontina and Emmental.

Selva in Val Gardena

Between Ortisei and the town of Selva is the historic Santa Cristina, which may be the smallest town in Val Gardena, but is important for its access to the Dolomiti Superski and the Sassolungo Group of mountains to its south, considered to be the symbol of Val Gardena. The Sassolungo (meaning “long stone”) Group is home to major ski racing events, such as the FIS World Cup, and lures mountaineers and rock climbers to tackle Mount Sassolungo, the highest peak in the range. Year round, the town displays a manger scene, which claims to be the world’s largest. And in the Church of Santa Cristina, an ornately carved late-16th-century altar by Christian Trebinger, the first documented sculptor of the Val Gardena, depicts apostles Peter and Paul. It’s only a short walk to the alpine pastures surrounding the town, which, in warmer months, are covered in wildflowers and berries, the source of the region’s renowned honey and jams.

The most famous, as well as the highest-

altitude, village in Val Gardena is Selva, at the foot of the Sella Mountain range. With its combination of forests and mountains, it is one of the most popular holiday resorts in Italy. A highlight is

Selva in Val Gardena

the Sellaronda ski route, which, through a series of chairlifts and gondolas, creates a 40-kilometer ski loop around the massif of the Sella range. Not far from Selva, and clinging to the Stevia Mountain rockface at an altitude of almost a mile, lie the ruins of the 13th-century Wolkenstein castle, once the property of the noble Wolkenstein family and rebuilt in the 16th century after an attack by the Venetians.

In the South Tyrol, Ladin is considered an ethnic

minority, one that has worked hard to maintain its traditions and language. In fact, in addition to Italian and German, Ladin, a Rhaeto-Romanic language more than 2,000 years old, is prevalent and one of the region’s three official languages, spoken only by the people in Val Gardena and the other valleys of the South Tyrol. So if you want to sound like a local, greet people with “Bon di!,” Ladin for “Good morning!”. Ladin cuisine is an important part of the culture, and includes traditional dishes like canederli, oversize

fried bread-based dumplings filled with speck (cured and smoked pork, similar to prosciutto), herbs, and cheese or potato, and hearty Gröstl, a kind of hash made with beef, potatoes, and egg. Apple-growing has been a major part of the Val Gardena since the Middle Ages, so apples also appear in many of the area’s signature dishes, from its sauerkraut and pasta sauce (with tomatoes), to a

celery-root salad and a version of bean (fagioli) soup. Festivals featuring traditional folk music and dance play a big part in Val Gardena, especially the renowned costume festival, “Gröden in Tracht,” held each August and rotating among the three main Dolomite Mountains

villages. “Tracht,” the traditional Tyrolean costumes, are richly detailed and ornamented, and even signify whether the wearer is considered a child or an adult, and whether they are single or married. Men’s costumes are accessorized with beautifully embroidered belts, and the women wear a range of headdresses, from peaked black hats to those with flowers and beads. Along with the performances and a big parade, traditional foods are served, along with Trentino-Alto Adige wines, such as Sylvaner, Gewürtztraminner, and Müller Thurgau. And if you come in winter, the village Christmas markets gleam with twinkling lights, wonderful hand-crafted wooden pieces, candles, and fabric gifts, and food and drink to warm and cheer you. But no matter what time of year, in the Val Gardena there is always joy to be found in the beauty of nature and a hearty Ladin spirit of

Mountains of the Sella Group

welcome.

Sch ttelbrot Schüttelbrot Made with rye flour and seasoned with caraway, aniseed, fennel seed, or coriander, Schüttelbrot is a

crisp flatbread that also goes by the name pane scosso. Its name means “shaken bread” (from the way the dough was originally made). It was a practical bread to make in the cold Alpine climate because its dry, hard consistency made it last all winter long. It’s terrific served with cheeses and speck.

Recipe

Stir both flours, the instant yeast, sugar, salt, and

caraway together in the bowl of a mixer. Combine the water, buttermilk, and olive oil in a measuring cup and whisk with a fork. Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix with the paddle attachment on low speed just to form a dough. Switch to the dough hook and knead on medium-high until the dough is smooth and springy and almost clears the sides of the bowl, about 6 minutes, adding a little more flour or water, if needed, to achieve the correct consistency. (The dough should remain slightly wet; it won’t form a perfect ball on the dough hook.) Oil a large bowl and

Yield Makes 6 flatbread

add the dough, turning to coat with oil on all sides. Cover the bowl and let rest until almost doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Ingredients 1 cup rye flour 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more as needed ½ teaspoon instant yeast 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons ground caraway seed ¾ cup lukewarm water ¼ cup buttermilk 2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the bowl.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line 2 baking

sheets with parchment. Divide the dough into 6 equal pieces. On a floured work surface, press each piece into a circle 5 to 6 inches in diameter. Transfer the circles of dough to the parchment-lined baking sheets and prick all over with a fork.

Bake 10 minutes, then rotate the baking sheets

from top to bottom and continue to bake until the flatbreads are just golden and very crisp, 8 to 10 minutes more. Turn off the oven and let the flatbreads continue to crisp as they cool.

Serve the flatbreads with speck, alpine cheeses,

radishes, and butter.

Gr stl Gröstl

Recipe

Put the potatoes in a saucepan with water to cover

by about an inch. Bring to a simmer and cook until This hearty dish is a traditional served-from-the-skillet

almost tender (they should not be fully cooked at this

breakfast or lunch. It was originally a vehicle for using

point), 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool, then peel and cut into

leftover braised beef, but you can also start it off with some smoky slab bacon, as I do here. If you do happen to have some leftover braised beef—brisket, braciole, or chuck, to name a few—simply shred it and add it once the bacon has browned.

Yield Serves 4

Ingredients 1 pound medium Yukon gold potatoes 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 8 ounces slab bacon, cut into ½-inch-thick lardons 1 medium onion, chopped 1 teaspoon caraway seeds 1 teaspoon hot sweet paprika, plus more for sprinkling 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives Kosher salt 4 large eggs ¼ cup fresh parsley leaves

approximately ½-inch chunks.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large skillet,

preferably cast iron, over medium heat. Add the bacon. Cook until crisp, about 4 minutes. (If the bacon has released a lot of fat, pour off all but about 3 tablespoons at this point.) Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, caraway, and paprika. Season with salt. Cook and stir, adjusting the heat so the potatoes crisp and brown but don’t burn, until the potatoes are tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the chives.

Meanwhile, heat a large nonstick skillet over

medium heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. When the oil is hot, break the eggs into the skillet and season with salt. Cook until the whites begin to set, then cover the skillet and cook until the whites are completely set and the yolks still runny, about 3 minutes. Spoon the hash onto plates. Top each serving with a fried egg and a sprinkle of parsley leaves and paprika.

Apple Fritters Frittelle di mele

Yield Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

Recipe

Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a medium

Dutch oven to 365 degrees F. Toss the apple rings in a medium bowl with 2 tablespoons of the sugar and the marsala or brandy, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Let macerate while you make the batter.

For the batter, whisk the flour, remaining 3

Vegetable oil, for frying

tablespoons sugar, the baking powder, and salt in a

3 Golden Delicious apples, peeled, cored,

large bowl. Whisk the egg yolk, milk, and vanilla in a

and cut into ¼-inch rings

spouted measuring cup. Pour into the dry ingredients

5 tablespoons sugar

and whisk just to combine. Stir in the melted butter.

2 tablespoons marsala or brandy

Whisk the egg whites, with a mixer or by hand, until

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

batter, keeping it light and airy.

1 cup all-purpose flour

¾ teaspoon baking powder

excess drip back into the bowl. Fry the apple slices,

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

in batches, until crisp and golden brown, 4 to 5

1 large egg, separated, plus 1 egg white

minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels. Dust

¾ cup milk

with confectioners’ sugar while still warm and serve

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

immediately.

Dip apple slices into the batter and let the

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted and cooled Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting 75

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WINTERTIME:

Stuffed Cabbage

In my grandparentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; garden in Busoler, row upon row of

fat green Savoy cabbages grew. One of my earliest memories of childhood is helping my grandmother harvest them (along with many other vegetables), as summer turned to fall and there was a chill in the air. The cold, foggy conditions of northern Italy are perfect for cabbage, and we always had an abundant crop.

My grandparents sold many of those Savoy cabbages at the

local market, but we kept plenty for ourselves for cold-weather meals that warmed and comforted. We pickled the cabbage, added cabbage to minestrone, fried it with potatoes and garlic

(verze e patate), and, in one of my favorite dishes, we stuffed the tender leaves.

There are many different versions of stuffed cabbage,

such as polpette di verza, from Lombardy, which includes sweet sausage and pancetta, and foglie di verza, also from northern

Italy, which has plum tomatoes and sage along with sausage. The first stuffed cabbage dish I ever ate was introduced to me by an aunt from Zagreb and was very Eastern European in its flavors. We adapted it for an Istrian version known as sarma. It includes vinegar, for a taste that is more sour than other Italian versions and features long-grain rice and a combination of ground beef and pork instead of sausage. Simmering in a simple tomato sauce, the cabbage rolls are fragrant and delicious. My family loves them, too, and I like to have them on our table for special occasions. I always use Savoy cabbage, just as my grandmother did, not only because their loose, wrinkled leaves make them easy to separate and roll while holding the filling without tearing; I also love serving these traditional dishes to my family, just as they were cooked for me, so that they will continue to be passed on for generations to come.

Recipe

With a paring knife, core the cabbage. Bring a large

pot of water to boil. Add the vinegar, and place the cabbage in the pot; simmer for a few minutes, until the outer leaves soften enough that they are easy to peel off with tongs. Continue to simmer and turn the cabbage, removing leaves as they loosen and soften until you have at least 16 whole large leaves. Let the leaves cool. Remove and cool the remaining inner head of the cabbage. Use a paring knife to

Istrian Stuffed Cabbage

shave down the thick ribs in the center of the leaves. Shred

Sarma

Yield Serves 8

Ingredients

the remaining cabbage, discarding the core. Combine the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic in

a food processor and pulse to make a coarse paste or pestata. Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add ½ cup of the pestata and cook until it dries out and sticks to the bottom of the pot, about 4 minutes. Stir in the rice, add

1 large Savoy cabbage, about 4 pounds

1 cup of the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Cover

1 cup white wine vinegar

and cook over low heat until the liquid is absorbed, about

1 large onion, cut into large chunks

7 minutes. (The rice will not be fully cooked at this point.)

1 large carrot, cut into large chunks

Scrape onto a plate and let cool.

2 stalks celery, cut into large chunks

3 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

remaining pestata and cook until it sticks to the bottom

¾ cup long-grain rice

of the pot, about 4 minutes. Add the shredded cabbage

6 cups low-sodium chicken broth

and season with salt. Cook until wilted, about 5 minutes.

½ cup dry white wine

Season with salt and pepper. Add the white wine and

1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes,

bring to a simmer. Add the tomatoes and remaining

crushed by hand Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pound ground beef 1 pound ground pork 1 large egg, beaten 1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

⅓ cup minced Italian parsley ⅓ cup grated Grana Padano

In a large Dutch oven, heat the remaining 3

chicken broth. Bring to a simmer and let cook while you stuff the cabbage leaves.

In a mixing bowl, combine the ground meats,

egg, bread crumbs, reserved rice, parsley, and grated cheese; season with 1 ½ teaspoon salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Divide the mixture into portions equal to the amount of cabbage leaves you have and roll each into a sausage-like cylinder about 2 ½ inches long. Working with one leaf at a time, place a cylinder of stuffing perpendicular to the stem. Roll the leaf around the stuffing, forming a snug fit, and tuck in both ends of the leaf to enclose the stuffing completely. Repeat with the remaining cabbage leaves and stuffing. Arrange the cabbage rolls side by side in two layers in the Dutch oven containing the tomato sauce. Add enough water to come up about halfway to the top of the second layer. Bring to a simmer, gently lifting cabbage rolls from time to time to prevent them from sticking to the bottom of the pan and scorching. Simmer gently until the rolls are very tender, about 1 ½ hours, uncovering in the last 30 minutes to reduce the sauce a bit. To serve, spoon the tomato sauce over the cabbage rolls.

TIME TO EAT:

Game Day

Whether you’re a fan of basketball, hockey, football,

European fútbol (soccer), or any number of sports, it’s much more fun to watch from home when you have a

gang of equally rabid fans to share the joys and sorrows of a game. At my house, we’re passionate about soccer (or

calcio, in Italian), especially when it comes to my son-in-

law Corrado’s favorite team, Associazione Sportiva Roma, or A.S. Roma. Sometimes I’m so immersed in a game that I find myself kicking my leg out during a play, as if I could somehow help make a goal.

I like to have something for us all to munch on while

we’re watching the game—easy to grab small but hearty finger foods. It’s a spread that’s practically a meal, making

it also an ideal menu for what in Italy we call an apericena, a drinks party with a buffet of appetizers that are hearty enough that you may not have to eat a big dinner.

A delicious make-ahead snack, which just happens

to be healthy for you as well, is crostini topped with fresh ricotta and a blend of tomatoes, capers, and basil. You just pop them into the oven for 10 minutes when you’re ready to eat. I also put out a meat dish, such as my chicken bites with sausages, in a slightly sweet and sticky (in a good way) vinegar sauce.

Arancini (stuffed rice balls) are always a hit. In my

Sicilian-style recipe, I tuck mozzarella cubes, ham, and peas into a well in the rice balls, which are made with short-grained Arborio or Carnaroli rice. They’re then breaded and deep-fried, for a crisp-on-the-outside, tenderon-the-inside bite.

Win or lose, you’ll have a good time sharing the spirit

of the game, with snacks that will take you from first play to last. 81

Tomato and Ricotta Crostini Crostini pomodori e ricotta When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re craving tomatoes in winter, I find grape tomatoes to be the most reliable way to find that sweet, juicy tomato taste. Warming them in the oven makes them even sweeter and juicier. In addition to being a terrific snack on game day, this hearty crostini makes a wonderful lunch or light dinner, paired with a simple salad. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re making this an appetizer, cut into smaller portions once baked (or just start with smaller pieces of bread).

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 6 large, thick slices hearty country bread 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 pint grape tomatoes, quartered lengthwise 1 tablespoon drained capers, coarsely chopped Âź cup fresh basil leaves, shredded 1 cup fresh ricotta

Recipe

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Brush the

bread with 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and season with salt and pepper. Bake until the edges are crisp and lightly golden, 6 to 8 minutes.

Combine the tomatoes, capers, basil, and re-

maining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a medium bowl. Season with salt and pepper and toss well. Mound onto the bread slices and top each with a dollop of ricotta. Bake until warmed through and the toasts are deep golden, about 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Stuffed Rice Balls Arancini

Yield Makes about 18

Ingredients

Recipe

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the olive

oil. When the oil is hot add the onion and ham; cook until the onion is softened and the ham begins to crisp on the edges, about 4 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat it in the oil. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer. Simmer until rice is al

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

dente (it should still have some bite), about 12 minutes, adding

½ medium onion, finely chopped

the peas in the last 4 minutes. Spread onto a parchment-lined

½ cup diced ham

baking sheet to cool.

¾ cup Arborio or Carnaroli rice

2 cups low-sodium chicken broth

Padano and parsley. Form into 18 balls, about 1 inch in diame-

½ cup frozen peas

ter, pressing a cube of mozzarella into the center of each as you

Transfer the cooled rice to a large bowl; stir in the Grana

⅓ cup grated Grana Padano

form them.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

eggs in a second shallow bowl and the bread crumbs in a third.

3 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 18 cubes

Roll the balls in flour, then dip in egg and coat in bread crumbs,

All-purpose flour, for dredging

resting them on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Chill for 30

2 large eggs, beaten with a pinch of salt

minutes.

1 ½ cups fine dried bread crumbs

Vegetable oil, for frying

365 degrees F. Cook the rice balls in 2 batches until crisp and

Warm marinara sauce, for dipping

deep golden, 4 to 5 minutes minutes per batch. Let the oil re-

Spread some flour into a shallow bowl. Put the beaten

Heat 2 inches of vegetable oil in a medium Dutch oven to

turn to 365 degrees F in between batches. Drain the rice balls on paper towels. Serve warm with marinara sauce for dipping.

Spicy Chicken Bites with Sausages and Vinegar Bocconcini piccanti di pollo all’aceto con salsicce Served as is, this dish is a great option for an informal gathering. Offer small plates for serving and crusty bread for mopping up the delicious sweet-and-spicy sauce. If you cut the chicken and sausage into larger pieces, it’s also an easy weeknight dinner.

Yield Serves 6 to 8 as an appetizer or 4 as a main course

Ingredients 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 3 links sweet Italian sausages, without fennel seeds, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 ½ pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 12 baby bell peppers 6 pickled peperoncini, thickly sliced, plus 2 tablespoons brine from the jar 4 garlic cloves, sliced 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon honey ½ cup dry white wine ½ cup low-sodium chicken broth 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces 2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley Crusty bread, for serving

Recipe

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.

Add the sausage pieces and cook until browned on the exterior and almost cooked through, 5 minutes. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Add the chicken to the skillet. Cook on all sides until well browned and just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add baby bell peppers, peperoncini, and garlic, and sauté until sizzling, 1 to 2 minutes. Pour in the vinegar, honey, and brine from the peperoncini. Cook and stir until the liquid reduces and glazes the sausage and chicken, about 2 minutes. Add the white wine and cook until syrupy, about 2 minutes. Add the chicken broth. Simmer until the chicken is tender and the sauce forms a nice glaze on the chicken and sausage, about 3 minutes. Add the butter and swirl to melt into the sauce. Sprinkle with the parsley, toss, and serve with crusty bread. 84

TIE ONE ON:

Heating Up the Classics

When thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a chill in the air, the drinks menu shifts

from cocktails that cool to those that warm you from the inside out. To keep things interesting, I often take classics and give them twists that offer a toasty edge.

Take hot cocoa, which I enjoy making for my

grandchildren or sipping with my mother on a chilly afternoon. The standard version is just about perfect, but by mixing in some chocolate-hazelnut spread and sprinkling the top with chopped hazelnuts, it becomes even creamier. For the adults, I add some Italian hazelnut liqueur, such as Frangelico, which amplifies the nutty warmth of the cocoa.

A Negroni is such a refreshing drink in summer. So why

give it up in winter? To warm the flavors, I insert a seasonal note of apples, substituting apple brandy for the traditional gin, adding spiced apple bitters, and garnishing it with apple slices along with the customary orange peel.

The whiskey sour is a drink for all seasons. But a few

touches can create a special cold-weather version. I use bourbon instead of rye whiskey and have added Barolo Chinato to the mix. If you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t tried this complex and deliciously sweet-bitter blend of Nebbiolo, herbs, and spices from the Piedmont, you have been missing out. It can be thoroughly enjoyed on its own as a vibrant after-dinner sip. And in a cocktail like this bourbon sour it turns standard into sophisticated (and distinctly Italian). 87

Spiked Hazelnut Hot Chocolate Cioccolata calda corretta alla nocciola

Yield Makes 2 to 3 servings

Ingredients

Recipe

1 Â˝ cups milk

Â˝ cup half-and-half

â&#x2026;&#x201C; cup chocolate-hazelnut spread

saucepan. Bring to a bare simmer. Whisk in the

Combine the milk and half-and-half in a small

2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

chocolate-hazelnut spread, cocoa powder, and

2 tablespoons sugar

sugar until melted and steaming. Remove from

3 ounces hazelnut liqueur, such as Frangelico

the heat and stir in the hazelnut liqueur. Serve hot

Whipped cream, for garnish

in mugs with a dollop of whipped cream and a

Chopped toasted hazelnuts, for garnish

sprinkle of toasted hazelnuts.

Apple Brandy Negroni Negroni con brandy di mele Spiced apple bitters are a specialty item, but you can find them online. They add a warm spiciness to this winter spin on the classic negroni cocktail. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find them, you can use orange bitters.

Yield Makes 1 drink

Ingredients 1 Â˝ ounces apple brandy 1 ounce Campari 1 ounce sweet vermouth 2 drops spiced apple bitters Orange peel, for garnish Apple slices, for garnish

Recipe

Combine the apple brandy,

Campari, sweet vermouth, and bitters in a glass and stir to combine. Strain into a chilled rocks glass filled with with ice. Garnish with orange peel and apple slices. Serve immediately.

Barolo Chinato Sour Barolo Chinato Sour

Recipe Combine the bourbon, lemon juice, simple syrup, and Amarena syrup in a cocktail shaker with ice.

I concocted this drink based on a Chinato cocktail

Shake vigorously. Strain into a rocks or stemless

I had recently while traveling in Denver. It had a

wine glass with more ice. Pour the Barolo China-

pear simple syrup, but I’m using Amarena cherries,

to on top, over the back of a spoon. Garnish with

from Fabbri, instead, which also plays on the mara-

Amarena cherries and a lemon twist.

schino cherry garnish for the classic whiskey sour.

Yield Makes 1 drink

Ingredients 2 ounces bourbon 1 ounce lemon juice ½ ounce simple syrup ½ ounce syrup from a jar of Amarena cherries ¾ ounce Barolo Chinato Amarena cherries, for garnish Lemon twist, for garnish

FEBRUARY 1 - 5 | JAVITS CENTER

EXPER I E NC E

WIT H L ID IA B ASTI A N I C H

Exclusive one-day appearance!

See Lidia Bastianich Live on the Epicurean Kitchen Stage at NY NOWÂŽ February 4, 2020 @ 12:30pm / Javits Center, NYC

With more celebrity chef appearances throughout the market.

Follow NY NOW [insert soor register at nynow.market/lidiaw20 to receive the schedule announcement and complete details.

WHAT A WONDERFUL PASTA:

In Good Shape

Have you ever made a beautiful pasta sauce filled with small

bits of vegetables and served it with a long, thin pasta? It’s a little frustrating, as you try to wind the spaghetti or fettuccine around your fork only to have the chunky vegetables and meats drop off to the bottom of the pasta bowl.

Shape is important when it comes to pasta; in fact, it can

change the whole experience of the dish. So when I develop recipes, I always consider which shape will best “marry” with the sauce to create a unified and delicious result.

Linguine is among the most popular pastas, served with a

tomato ragù, which suits it perfectly. A fresh, chunky seafood sauce is a close second. I like to combine calamari, scallops, and shrimp in a recipe (page 95) inspired by spaghetti di Tornola, served in Italy’s

Molise region. In every bite, the pasta is twisted with the seafood, and the delicious broth can be slurped at the end.

Penne (whose namesake is the nib of a vintage quill pen) is

shaped to maximize the pasta-to-sauce ratio, with its short length and tubular form. One of the best vegetables to tuck into penne are peas (page 94), which I like to combine with earthy shiitake, oyster, and cremini mushrooms and bacon in the fall.

Farfalle is shaped to maximize the pasta-to-sauce ratio, with

its butterfly-like wings, hence the meaning of its name. With a hearty cool-weather sauce of cabbage and sweet sausage (page 97), the farfalle never get lost in the sauce.

Ridged pasta, such as rigatoni, is great with chunky ingredients

like beans, and lets sauce cling to it. A lovely Sicilian vegetarian dish with a Moroccan accent, of cauliflower, saffron, and golden raisins, as well as pine nuts (page 98) is well matched with rigatoni, whose large tubular shape invites all the ingredients in.

With these loose guidelines, play around with different pasta

shapes in your own recipes, even serving the same sauce with a couple of different shapes, letting your family vote on their favorites. 93

Penne with Peas and Mushrooms Penne con piselli e funghi You can use any combination of mushrooms you like for this recipe—I’d stay away from portobellos, though, as they can give the sauce a murky color and will take longer to cook than the other varieties. This is a quick sauce for a weeknight dinner and comes together in about the same amount of time as it takes to boil the water and cook the pasta!

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 thick slices pancetta, diced 12 ounces mixed mushrooms, thickly sliced (such as cremini, shiitake, chanterelle, and oyster) 1 bunch scallions, coarsely chopped, whites and greens kept separate 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 pound penne 1 cup frozen peas ½ cup freshly grated Grana Padano

Recipe

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for

pasta. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until just crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove to a paper-towel-lined plate with a slotted spoon. Increase the heat to medium-high; scatter in the mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned and no moisture remains in the pan, 6 to 7 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Add the scallion whites, thyme, butter, and

reserved pancetta. When the butter is melted, ladle in 1 cup of the pasta cooking water and bring to a simmer. At the same time, add the pasta to the boiling water. Simmer the sauce until flavorful and reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Add the peas to the pasta about halfway through cooking time.

When the pasta is al dente and the sauce is

ready, drain the pasta and peas, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking water. Add the pasta and peas to the simmering sauce along with the scallion greens. Drizzle with a little olive oil and toss to coat the pasta in the sauce, adding a little of the reserved pasta water if it seems dry. Remove the skillet from the heat, sprinkle with the grated cheese, toss, and serve.

Linguine with Calamari, Scallops and Shrimp Linguine di Tornola

Yield Serves 6

Recipe

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for the

pasta. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the garlic and cook until lightly golden and sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the peperoncino and let sizzle a few seconds, then add the tomatoes. Add 1 cup of pasta cooking water to the tomato can, slosh around, and add to the skillet. and bring the sauce to a rapid

Ingredients

boil. Cook until thickened, about 5 minutes.

Once the sauce has thickened, add the

Kosher salt

linguine to the boiling water. Once you’ve added

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

the pasta, add the calamari to the simmering sauce

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

and cook until it begins to curl, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir

¼ teaspoon peperoncino

in the scallops and cook another 2 minutes. Add

1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes,

the shrimp and simmer until the shrimp (and all of

crushed by hand

the rest of the seafood) is cooked through, about 3

1 pound linguine

to 4 minutes more.

8 ounces medium calamari, tubes cut into 1-inch rings,

tentacles left whole 8 ounces small sea scallops or bay scallops, side muscle (“foot”) removed

When the pasta is al dente, remove with

tongs directly to the simmering sauce. Drizzle with a little olive oil and sprinkle with the basil. Toss to coat the pasta with the sauce, adding a little

8 ounces large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on

of the pasta cooking water if it seems dry. Serve

¼ cup fresh basil leaves, shredded

immediately. 95

Farfalle with Cabbage and Meat Sauce Farfalle della bisnonna While sausage is convenient because it’s already seasoned, you could start this sauce with any ground meat you like, though you may want to up the seasonings a bit. (Of all the recipes we tested for this issue, this was Grandma’s favorite. She had two helpings at lunch and asked me to set some aside for her for dinner that night as well.)

Yield Serves 6

Recipe

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for

pasta. To a large, deep skillet, over medium-high heat, add 4 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the sausage. Cook, crumbling with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the onion, carrot,

celery, and thyme in a food processor and pulse to make a chunky paste or pestata. Once the sausage is browned, add the pestata and cook, stirring occasionally, until it has dried out and begins to stick to the bottom of the pan, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with the peperoncino. Make an empty spot in the pan, add the tomato paste, and let it

Ingredients Kosher salt 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 8 ounces sweet Italian sausage, removed from the casing 1 small onion, cut into chunks 1 medium carrot, cut into chunks 1 celery stalk, cut into chunks 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves ¼ teaspoon peperoncino 2 tablespoons tomato paste ½ cup dry white wine ½ head Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded 1 pound farfalle

toast for a minute or two. Stir the tomato paste into the vegetables and pour in the white wine. Simmer until almost reduced, about 3 minutes. Add the cabbage and 3 cups of pasta water. Cover, and cook until the cabbage is wilted, about 20 minutes. Uncover, and continue cooking to thicken the sauce and until the cabbage is tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt.

Meanwhile, cook the farfalle until al dente.

Remove with a spider directly to the sauce. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss to coat the pasta with the sauce, adding a little pasta water if it seems dry. Remove the skillet from the heat, add the grated cheese, toss, and serve.

½ cup grated Grana Padano

Rigatoni with Cauliflower, Saffron, and Golden Raisins Rigatoni con cavolfiore, zafferano e uvetta If you have a day-old piece of country bread to use up, you can skip the panko; simply grate the bread on the coarse holes of a box grater. The crumbs will take a minute or two longer to toast, but are a thrifty way to use up old bread. The tang of grated pecorino is a great counterpart to this slightly sweet pasta sauce.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients Kosher salt ½ cup golden raisins ½ teaspoon saffron threads 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ¾ cup panko 1 medium onion, sliced 1 small head cauliflower, cut into small florets, plus the tender leaves, chopped ¼ teaspoon peperoncino 1 tablespoon tomato paste ½ cup dry white wine 1 pound rigatoni ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley ¼ cup pine nuts, toasted ½ cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

Recipe

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the

pasta. Put the raisins and saffron in a small bowl and cover with 1 cup hot water. Let soak while you begin the sauce.

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. When

the skillet is hot, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the panko or bread crumbs. Cook and stir until the crumbs are crisp and golden all over, about 2 to 3 minutes. Set aside to cool.

To a large skillet over medium heat, add the

remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the onion and cook until wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower florets and leaves, and season with salt and peperoncino. Cook, tossing occasionally, until the cauliflower is caramelized, about 10 minutes. Push the cauliflower to the side, and make a hot spot in the middle of the pan. Add the tomato paste and cook and stir in that hot spot until it toasts and darkens a shade or two, about 1 minute. Stir the tomato paste into the vegetables. Add the white wine, bring to a simmer, and add the raisins and their soaking liquid. Bring back to a simmer, and cook until the cauliflower is very tender, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water.

When the sauce is ready and the pasta is al dente, remove the pasta with a spider and transfer directly to the simmering sauce. Sprinkle with the parsley and pine nuts, and toss to coat the pasta with the sauce, adding a little pasta water if it seems dry. Remove the skillet from the heat, sprinkle with the grated cheese, toss, and serve.

100

MY GROCERY LIST:

Bright Touches

Whatever I’m cooking, in whatever season, I like to work in

ingredients that add a spark to each dish (especially peperoncino); they’re regulars on the list I take to the market. In winter, for mellow comfort foods, I’ll add a little orange or lemon zest or vegetables like fennel and horseradish. It’s just enough to brighten the dish and make it more layered.

In thinking about these ingredients, I’ve included three recipes

that can make a menu, perhaps with the addition of another cooked vegetable like roasted brussels sprouts or a green salad.

A great starter is a fennel-and-orange salad with lightly fried

wild cod. The fennel mellows and becomes sweet when it’s roasted or braised, while still retaining its distinct licorice-like flavor. When I shop for fennel, I keep my eyes out for crispy white compact bulbs and fresh green fronds (which are delicious tossed in a salad). When I’m not pairing it with cod, I braise it with pork chops, cook it in a skillet with sausage and olives, or add it to spaghetti and bitter greens (another winter favorite).

A wonderful winter main course that is also easy on my grocery

budget is braised beef rolls. Less expensive leaner cuts of beef like boneless bottom round are perfect for low and slow cooking, which breaks down the muscle fibers and results in an incredibly tender meat. I stuff slices of bottom round with herbed bread, prosciutto, and two cheeses and braise them in a red-wine sauce.

Braised beef practically calls out to be served with creamy

polenta or velvety mashed potatoes. Sometimes I want my mashed potatoes to be rich and creamy, and other times I find grated fresh horseradish adds just enough heat to energize the dish. (It also works wonders in creamy salad dressings and dips.) I’m lucky because my mother and I grow horseradish in our garden, so I often have it on hand. I love the promise that the plant’s big green leaves make of the spicy root below. The fresh variety has more of a kick than the storebought bottled version, but if you can’t find it at the market, you can substitute bottled horseradish.

101

Braised Beef Rolls Involtini di manzo brasato The beef will be easier to slice if you firm it up in the freezer for half an hour or so before you begin. You should get 8 to 10 slices from a 2-pound piece of beef, depending on how thin you slice. As you slice, press your other hand against the meat as a guide, so you can make thin, even slices. This makes more sauce than you’ll need to serve with the rolls, but you can use the rest to dress a pound of pasta— serve as a first course or alongside the rolls.

Recipe

For the rolls, slice the meat into 8 to 10 ½-inch-

thick slices against the grain. Use the toothed side of a meat mallet to pound into a ¼-inch thickness.

For the stuffing, put the bread in a medium

bowl and pour the milk over. Soak until softened, about 5 minutes. Squeeze out the excess milk and break up the bread into a large bowl. Add the eggs, pine nuts, grated cheese, parsley, scallions, and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Mix well to form a cohesive stuffing.

Lay the beef slices in front of you on your

work surface. Season with salt and pepper. Cut the prosciutto to fit over each slice, leaving a ½-inch border. Do the same with the cheese, leaving

Ingredients for the rolls 1 (2-pound piece) boneless bottom beef round 3 cups day-old crustless Italian bread cubes 1 ½ cups milk 2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped ¼ cup toasted pine nuts, coarsely chopped ¼ cup grated Grana Padano ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley 4 scallions, chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 8 to 10 slices prosciutto 8 to 10 thin slices provolone

a slightly larger border. Place a log of filling on each slice of meat, leaving about 1-inch space on the sides. Tuck the sides in and roll the slices up, securing them closed with toothpicks.

To brown the rolls and start the sauce, heat

the olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Brown the rolls in batches, removing them to a plate as they’re done, about 8 minutes in all. Once all of the rolls are out, add the onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the peperoncino and cook until sizzling, about 1 minute. Add the wine and increase the heat to reduce until syrupy, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, and 2 cups of water. Season with salt. Bring to a simmer and add the rolls. Cook, covered, until the rolls are

Ingredients for the sauce 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped ¼ teaspoon peperoncino ¾ cup dry red wine 2 (28-ounce) cans whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand 2 fresh bay leaves

very tender, about 1 ½ hours, adding more water as needed to keep them submerged. Stir gently a few times to make sure the rolls aren’t sticking or burning on the bottom.

Remove the rolls to a platter. If needed,

increase the heat under the rolls to reduce and thicken the sauce. Remove the toothpicks before serving and tuck the rolls back into the sauce to rewarm them. Serve the rolls with the sauce. (Use any extra sauce for pasta.)

102

103

104

Recipe

Trim the tops from the fennel bulbs, reserving

about ¼ cup tender fronds. Cut each bulb into ½-inch planks lengthwise. You should get 3 planks from each bulb that stay attached at the core, plus some end pieces. Set planks aside and very thinly slice the end pieces, using a mandoline, if you have one. Put the thinly sliced fennel in a medium bowl.

Cod with Braised Fennel

Merluzzo con finocchi brasati

sharp knife and cut the segments free from the

This cod dish is simple, yet elegant enough to serve for a dinner party (simply double or triple the recipe for more guests). It also comes together quickly enough to make it a part of your weeknight repertoire.

Yield Serves 2

Grate 1 teaspoon of orange zest and add to

the bowl. Remove the peel of the orange with a membranes, adding to the medium bowl. Squeeze the juice left in the membrane to get 2 tablespoons and add to the bowl.

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Add

the butter and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Add the fennel planks, in one layer, and season with salt and pepper. Cook until golden and caramelized on the bottom, about 3 minutes, then flip and caramelize the other side, about 3 minutes more. Add the white wine and simmer until the fennel

Ingredients 2 medium bulbs fennel 1 orange 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup dry white wine 2 thin cod fillets, halved crosswise (about 12 ounces) All-purpose flour, for dredging

is golden and tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to boil away the wine and glaze the fennel, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

Season the cod with salt and pepper. Spread

a little flour on a plate and lightly dredge the cod on both sides. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the cod and cook until the bottom is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and cook until the cod is just cooked through, about 3 minutes more, depending on thickness.

To serve, divide the fennel planks between

two plates. Top each with 2 pieces of cod. Drizzle the fennel and orange salad with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil, add the reserved fronds, season with salt and pepper, and toss. Mound the salad on top of the cod and serve immediately.

105

Horseradish and Scallion Mashed Potatoes Purè di patate con rafano e scalogno I love fresh horseradish, so I use it liberally here. If you’re new to it, start with one-third cup grated and add more to taste. Horseradish root will keep, well wrapped in the refrigerator, for at least a couple of weeks. Don’t grate it until you’re ready to use, though, as it will begin to lose its pungency quite quickly.

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 3 pounds russet potatoes, all about the same size 1 stick unsalted butter 1 cup half-and-half 1 cup milk 1 bunch scallions, coarsely chopped Kosher salt 2-inch piece fresh horseradish root, peeled and grated (about ½ cup)

106

Recipe

Put the unpeeled whole potatoes in a large pot

with cold water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring to a simmer, and cook until tender, about 30 to 40 minutes. Drain, and let sit until just cool enough to peel.

While the potatoes cool, combine the butter,

half-and-half, milk, and salt in the cooking pot over low heat, just until the butter melts. Stir in the scallions to soften them slightly.

Press the still-warm potatoes through a ricer into

the butter mixture. Add the horseradish, and stir until smooth. Season with salt and serve immediately.

108

Eat Different

Even small “fixes” to a cooking technique we think we know can

positively change the outcome of a dish. Here are a few tips for making a better gratin, stew, and risotto.

Giving vegetables or seafood the gratin treatment—with a topping

of grated cheese or buttered bread crumbs, then baking until the topping turns into a dark golden-brown crust—offers another layer of texture and flavor. Broccoli, cauliflower, onions, potatoes, and mushrooms are terrific candidates for a gratinate, as is shrimp. The key is that dark crust; you want that crisp bite that the crust provides. To get it, make sure to use a very light hand when scattering the cheese and bread crumbs, and cover the entire surface equally. A thinner, even layer of topping cooks more evenly, meaning you can leave the dish in the oven longer and the resulting caramelization will enhance the flavor.

Braising or stewing can result in super-tender, wonderfully flavored

stews, if you follow (and practice) the basics. First, choose a meat that’s a cheaper, tougher, fattier cut, which will tenderize over low, slow cooking: pork or lamb shoulder (as in the stew on page 111), beef chuck roast, or chicken thighs. Second, use a Dutch oven (I like enameled ceramic pots, which conduct heat well) with a tight-fitting lid to hold in all the moisture after your meat is browned and other ingredients added. And third, don’t rush the process. The longer the stew cooks, the more the ingredients can release their flavors.

A whole book could be devoted to making risotto, but here’s a tip

that makes a big difference. At the stage when you’re toasting the rice (always Arborio or Carnaroli) in oil, before adding your stock or wine, make sure that every grain is coated as it cooks on the outside. A capsule forms on the outer layer that helps prevent it from absorbing too much liquid too fast and cooking down to mush. The “toasted” rice still looks white, but you can hear a clicking sound when you stir it. So listen for the click! 109

Herbed Cauliflower Gratinate Cavolfiore gratinato alle erbe A lot of people throw away the leaves attached to the base of the cauliflower, but I love them. Save

Recipe

Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Spread a rimmed

baking sheet with the butter. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the cauliflower and toss to coat in the oil. Cook and toss until the florets begin to brown in places, about 5

them and add them here about halfway through the

minutes. Add the garlic slices and season with salt and

skillet cooking time, right before you add the water.

peperoncino. Let the garlic sizzle a minute, then pour in ¼ cup water. Cover the skillet and simmer until the

Ingredients

cauliflower begins to soften but is still al dente, about 5 minutes more.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

Transfer the entire contents of the skillet to a large

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

mixing bowl. Combine the grated cheese, bread crumbs,

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets

parsley, chives, and lemon zest in a small bowl. Sprinkle

4 garlic cloves, sliced

the cauliflower with about half of the cheese mixture, toss,

Kosher salt and peperoncino

then sprinkle with the remaining cheese mixture, tossing

½ cup grated Grana Padano

well so everything is coated with the crumbs.

¼ cup fine dry bread crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

rack of the oven until the cauliflower is very tender

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

and the crumbs are crisp and deep golden, about 20

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

minutes, tossing once about halfway through. Transfer the

Lemon wedges, for serving

cauliflower and all of the crumbs to a serving platter and

Spread on the baking sheet and roast on the bottom

serve warm, with lemon wedges.

110

Lamb Stew with Fennel and Olives Agnello ’ncip ’nciap

Recipe

Yield Serve this stew over polenta or mashed potatoes, or simply with crusty bread.

Ingredients ½ teaspoon saffron threads All-purpose flour for dredging 2 ½ pounds boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 medium fennel bulbs, plus ¼ cup tender fronds 3 small onions, cut into 6 wedges each, attached at the root end 2 tablespoons tomato paste ½ cup dry white wine 1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand 2 fresh bay leaves 2 strips orange peel, removed with a vegetable peeler ½ cup pitted green olives, such as Cerignola

Soak the saffron threads in very hot water to

release their color. Spread the flour on a rimmed plate. Season lamb

with salt and pepper. Lightly dredge the lamb pieces in the flour. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, brown the lamb pieces all over, in batches, about 4 minutes per batch, removing to a plate as they brown.

Once all of the lamb is out of the pot, add the

fennel pieces (bulb only) and onions. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they begin to caramelize on the edges, about 5 minutes. Make a space in the center of the pot and add the tomato paste to it. Let the tomato paste toast in the spot for a minute or two, then stir into the vegetables and add the white wine. Boil the white wine until reduced by half, then add the browned lamb, tomatoes, bay leaves, orange peel, and saffron water. Bring to a simmer, set the lid ajar, and cook until the lamb is just tender, about 1 hour.

Uncover the pot, add the olives, and simmer until

the lamb is very tender and the sauce is thickened, about 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and orange peel. Stir in the parsley and fennel fronds just before serving.

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley 111

Butternut Squash and Kale Risotto Risotto con zucca e cavolo

Yield Serves 6

Ingredients 6 to 7 cups vegetable or chicken broth or water 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil ½ small butternut squash, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 medium leeks, halved and thinly sliced, white and light green parts only 10 small fresh sage leaves 2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice ½ cup dry white wine 3 cups loosely packed baby kale ½ cup grated Grana Padano 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Recipe

Put the broth or water in a small saucepan and

simmer over low heat. Heat a large, shallow Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, add the squash, season with salt and pepper, and brown all over, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove to a plate.

Add the leeks and sage and cook until softened,

about 4 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat in the oil. Cook and stir until the grains are well coated without letting them brown, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and adjust the heat so it simmers. Cook until the wine is absorbed, about 2 minutes. Ladle in enough hot stock or water to just cover the rice. Bring to a simmer, add the squash cubes, and cook until the liquid is absorbed. Continue to add liquid and stir, keeping the rice covered with liquid, until just shy of al dente. Stir in the kale, add one more addition of liquid, and cook until the kale and squash are tender and the rice is still al dente, 18 to 20 minutes in all. You may not use all of the liquid, but you do want to the risotto to be saucy at this point.

Remove the pot from the heat. Vigorously stir in

the grated cheese and butter until incorporated. Serve immediately.

112

113

114

IT’S ALWAYS DESSERT TIME:

Holiday Sweets

At this time of year, my kitchen is usually filled with the scent of

a pie, cake, or cookies baking. I like to have a plate of cookies ready for my family and friends to nibble on when they drop by (along with a hot toddy or a steaming cup of hot cocoa), or as a light bite at the end of a meal. An assortment of cookies lets everyone pick their favorite: iced sugar cut-out cookies, glazed anise cookies (great with a cup of espresso), preserve-filled half-moon cookies that I fry and dust with confectioners’ sugar, and the Italian glazed chocolate spice cookies (the recipe follows) that I add a little orange zest to.

When I was a child, most of the desserts we had were based on

fruit—fresh, dried, or preserved. A tart or crostata is such a beautiful way to showcase fruit, and the pear is a great seasonal choice. Baked pears soften and take on a gently sweet flavor. In southern Italy, you might choose the pera mastanuono—a small yellow-green pear that has a delightful scent. Although we can’t get the mastanuono here, Bartlett or Bosc pears are good substitutes and hold their shape while baking.

All sorts of fruit make appearances in my cheesecakes, too.

For a holiday cheesecake (page 120), I might make a special crust of almonds and amaretti cookies, and add juicy golden raisins, as well as a splash of dark rum, to the filling. Ricotta is the cheese of choice for a true Italian cheesecake, unlike the American version, which uses cream cheese or a combination with ricotta. The texture is more crumbly and the flavor is best when the cake is served at room temperature. (Cream cheese results in a creamier texture and needs to be chilled in order to set.) My grandmother, who raised goats, would make fresh ricotta from the goat’s milk, and to this day I prefer goat’s milk to cow’s milk ricotta for my cheesecake, for that bit of tang.

115

Rustic Pear Crostata Crostata di pere

Recipe

For the dough, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and

salt in a food processor. Pulse just to combine. Scatter in the butter

Ingredients for the dough 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 8 tablespoons very cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 1 large egg

Ingredients for the filling ¼ cup apricot jam 2 tablespoons sugar, plus more for sprinkling 3 firm-ripe Bartlett pears, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits 1 large egg, beaten with a pinch of salt

116

pieces and pulse until the butter is the size of peas. Combine the egg and 2 tablespoons cold water in a small bowl and pour over the flour. Pulse just until the dough comes together in loose crumbs. (Add a little more water if the dough is too crumbly or a little more flour if it is too wet.) Mound the dough on a work surface and knead a few times to make a cohesive dough. Wrap in plastic and flatten into a disk. Refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to overnight. Let rest on the work surface for 10 minutes before you begin to roll it out.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F, with a baking stone, if you have

one, on the bottom rack. For the filling, warm the jam in a small bowl in the microwave to thin it out, then stir in the sugar. Toss the pears, cornstarch, and lemon zest and juice until the cornstarch is absorbed. Drizzle with the jam mixture and toss to combine.

Roll the dough on a piece of parchment to a circle with a

13-inch diameter. Mound the pear mixture in the center, leaving a 2-inch border all around. Dot the top with the butter pieces. Fold the crust over the top of the fruit, pleating as you go. Slide the crostata, still on the parchment, onto a baking sheet. Brush the crust with the beaten egg and sprinkle with sugar. Bake until the filling is bubbling and the bottom of the crust is crisp and golden, about 40 minutes. Remove to a rack and let cool at least 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chocolate Spice Cookies Mostaccioli

Yield Makes 2 ½ dozen cookies

Ingredients for the cookies 2 cups all-purpose flour ½ cup cocoa powder 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon salt 1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature ¾ cup sugar 2 teaspoons grated orange zest 1 large egg ½ cup milk

Ingredients for the glaze 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup cocoa powder 3 tablespoons milk, plus more as needed 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Sprinkles, for decorating

118

Recipe

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line 2 baking

sheets with parchment paper. Sift the flour, cocoa, baking powder, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, cloves, and salt onto a piece of parchment paper.

In a large bowl, with a mixer fitted with the

paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on high speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the orange zest and egg; beat until combined. Add the flour mixture on low speed in 2 additions, alternating with the milk. Mix on high speed for a few seconds just to combine. Chill the dough until firm, about 1 hour.

Roll the dough into 1-inch balls and place 2

inches apart on the parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake, rotating the trays from top to bottom once, until puffed and the edges are set, about 12 minutes. Let cool completely on racks and repeat with the remaining dough.

Once the cookies are cooled, make the glaze.

Sift the confectioners’ sugar and cocoa into a medium bowl. Stir in the milk and vanilla to make a smooth, thick glaze, adding up to 1 to 2 tablespoons more milk, if needed, so that the glaze drizzles thickly from the tip of a spoon.

Dip the tops of the cookies in the glaze and return

to the cooling racks (with parchment beneath them to catch drips). Decorate with sprinkles and let the glaze harden before serving.

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Rum-Raisin Ricotta Cheesecake Cheesecake con ricotta e uvetta al rum

Ingredients for the crust 30 small amaretti cookies ¼ cup sliced almonds, toasted 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Ingredients for the batter ½ cup golden raisins 2 tablespoons dark rum 4 large eggs, separated ¾ cup sugar 1 ½ pounds fresh ricotta 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Grated zest of 1 orange ½ teaspoon ground allspice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt Confectioners’ sugar and sliced toasted almonds, for garnish

Recipe

For the crust, preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Combine the amaretti

and almonds in a food processor and grind to crumbs. Add the melted butter and pulse to combine. Press the mixture into the bottom of an 8-inch springform pan. Bake until just set, about 10 minutes. Transfer to a rack and let cool. Reduce oven temperature to 325 degrees F.

For the batter, combine the raisins and rum in a small bowl and

let soak for 10 minutes. Put the egg yolks and ½ cup of the sugar in a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on high until light and pale, about 2 minutes. Add the ricotta, flour, vanilla, orange zest, allspice, and salt and beat until very smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the rum and raisins and beat on low to incorporate.

In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the egg whites until foamy. Add

the remaining ¼ cup sugar and beat on medium-high speed to form soft peaks. Stir about ⅓ of the whites into the batter to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites. Spread the batter into the prepared pan. Bake until light golden and puffed, about 1 hour, 10 minutes. (The cheesecake should be mostly set with just a little bit of jiggle in the center.)

Remove to a rack to cool. Remove the ring when the cheesecake

is still warm but not hot, after about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, sprinkle with toasted sliced almonds and serve at room temperature. 120

121

Ingredient of the Month

Artichokes are a nutritious and versatile spring

vegetables in olive oil or vinegar extends their lifespan

vegetable, yet many people shy away from them.

and prevents deterioration and mold from forming. In

Italians, on the other hand, love their artichokes in a

fact, this practice is especially common in Southern

thousand ways.

Italian regions, which are known around the world for

their high-quality fresh and marinated artichokes.

The prized section of the artichoke is the soft

inner heart, exposed once cleaned and trimmed

down. It has a buttery, smooth texture. And off-season,

regions who immigrated and settled in California

when you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get the fresh version, there are always

started growing artichokes, which were then unknown

artichoke hearts preserved in oil or vinegar. Unlike

to Americans. From that time on, California became

fresh artichokes, jarred artichokes can be enjoyed

renowned for its artichoke production.

year-round and are a great option for the home cook

that hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mastered the technique of preparing fresh

or sold in jars. Although more affordable, canned

artichokes, or for people that are pressed for time.

artichokes are high in sodium and tend to be soggy

(A visit to any supermarket in Italy entails exploring

and less flavorful, so I recommend using jarred

shelves filled with all sorts of vegetables submerged

artichokes packed in olive oil when possible. You can

in olive oil.) The artichokes can be used on antipasti

even use the oil as a salad dressing! If you do choose

platters, in pasta sauces, as a topping on pizza, and

to buy canned artichokes, rinse them before use to

much more. For a boost of flavor, I like to sautĂŠ the

reduce the sodium content.

hearts in the skillet before using them in a recipe.

jarred artichoke hearts at home. Though time

Italians have a long history of preserving and

canning vegetables for the winter months. Submerging

In the early twentieth century, Italians from these

Preserved artichoke hearts are typically canned

And, of course, anyone can make their own

consuming, it is worth the effort. Just remember to sterilize the jars before canning!

122

Tutti a Tavola a Mangiare!

Available at your local grocery store, at Eatalyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stores in the United States and Canada and online at www.Eataly.com. Visit us at www.Lidiasitaly.com

Brodetto Brodetto is a traditional savory fish stew made along the Italian Adriatic coast, especially in Abruzzo and Marche. It was historically made by fishermen who used leftover catch, damaged fish, and cheaper pieces, although these days it can be made with prized fish. Brodetto has different regional versions, some with tomatoes, others with white wine, vinegar, or saffron. It can also refer to a soupy sauce made with whisked eggs and lemon juice.

Caciocavallo I enjoy peppering in some Italian words in

Literally meaning “cheese on horse,” caciocavallo is a

my recipes. I think it adds to the flavor of the

traditional stretched-curd cheese made in southern

recipes, and some words are truly difficult to

Italy. This cheese is usually hung with string to age in

translate. Using Italian words helps convey

pairs. It has an edible, smooth, pale yellow rind and its

the culture’s charm and warmth.

flavor can range from mild to sharp depending on how long it is aged. Other varieties of caciocavallo include

The language is a perfect mirror of the

spicy and smoked.

complex identity of Italy and its different regions, each with its own special recipes and ingredients, but all of them united in thousands of years of tradition. Here are some examples of words that are often used and have great depth to them.

Arancini These fried rice balls get their name “small oranges” from their shape and size. You can find arancini all over Southern Italy, especially in Sicily, Rome, and Naples, where they are often sold by street vendors. The fillings vary by region, but traditional arancini are filled with a meat and pea ragù, or simply with mozzarella, prosciutto, and grated cheese.

124

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Alla Diavola

Al Forno

Alla diavola carries the same meaning as “fra diavolo”

Al forno means “cooked in the oven.” Pasta al forno is

and refers to a spicy dish. Used much more on Italian-

baked pasta. A staple in Southern Italy, it is prepared

American menus than on menus in Italy, fra diavolo

with short cuts of dried pasta and vegetables and is

sauce is typically tomato-based. It was originally made

typically enjoyed on Sundays and special occasions.

with lobster chunks in the shell and is a creation of

Heavier, heartier baked pastas with ragù or butter

Italian immigrants in New York City at the turn of the

are found in the Northern regions. Italian-American

twentieth century.

baked pastas are often made with fresh pasta such as

All’antica

Farcite

Translating to “in an old-fashioned style,” all’ antica

Translates to “stuffed.” Italians often stuff vegetables

refers to an old or traditional recipe. For example,

such as peppers and tomatoes with either bread or

Ragù Bolognese all’antica hails from Bologna, Emilia

meat, and you will often find a platter of baked stuffed

Romagna, has milk added to the sauce while it simmers,

vegetables in restaurants around Italy. Because the

which gives it a velvety texture, and is served with fresh

white button mushroom was abundant in America, it

tagliatelle. Today, the most common version prepared in Bologna is without milk.

Torrone Also known as “nougat,” torrone is a traditional Christmas dessert made throughout Italy and the world. It is made with roasted nuts, egg whites, sugar and honey, and can be either soft or hard depending on the amount of egg whites used and the cooking time. Typically made with almonds, other flavors include pistachio, hazelnut, orange, chocolate and more.

126

cannelloni or manicotti.

became a favorite vegetable for Italian immigrants to stuff, and is still popular in Italian-American restaurants.

- 2018 ISSUE 01

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