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Sichuan: Xiaqiangla in Minya Konka Range

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On 03.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Xiaqiangla (5,470m), northeast face.

Published by the American Alpine Club

By Chiharu Yoshimura, Japanese Alpine Club, translated by Tom Nakamura After my first ascent in 2007 of Bawangshan (5,551m) in the Qonglai Shan (AAJ 2008), I began to wonder what should be my next target. It didn’t take long to find a mountain that fitted my criteria: unclimbed, prominent, beautiful, and with easy access. Xiaqiangla is an outstanding peak in the northern Daxue Shan, west of Danba and the Dadu River.

Only Kiyoshi Kawajiri, Tom Nakamura, and Tadao Shintani had accessed these mountains before. [Nakamura's photo of Xiaqiangla appeared in AAJ 2009.] The peak is alluring not only because it is a fine unclimbed pyramid, but also due to the surrounding area, the so-called Valley of Beauty, where unique local Tibetan culture features fine and historic art, literature, and architecture, including stone towers that are typical of the Dadu River Basin. Our expedition took place

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A foreshortened image of Xiaqiangla's ca 400m northeast face.

Peak 2 and Peak 3 on the north ridge are marked. (1) Matsushima-Sato Route and (2) upper section of their descent on north ridge. (3) north ridge attempted by Kato and Yoshimura over Peak 3. Chiharu Yoshimura

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China, Xinjiang: Venus Peak On 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, China, Xinjiang)

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Venus Peak (6,279m), southeast ridge.

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By Hervé Barmasse, Italy In June and July, Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri, and I traveled to the Shaksgam Valley to attempt an alpinestyle ascent of Gasherbrum I. Unfortunately, due to the inefficiency of

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the agency that organized our logistics, it took 45 days to reach base camp.

After this we had only seven days available before returning home, so no time to make an attempt. However, during the approach we made the first ascent of the 6,279m peak [Polish 1:80,000 Satellite Map] north of the entrance to the South Skyang Lungpa Glacier, which flows east to the Shaksgam River. It was a beautiful but difficult adventure…. (read more)

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* Venus peak from the south. (S) Summit, (E) southeast ridge, (B) bivouac and (C) Pt. 5,980m. The Italians climbed the far flank of the ridge to reach the crest at the point close to where they bivouacked. Hervé Barmasse

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Sichuan: Ruiche Gongga On 03.14.11, by jharlin

(Back to: Asia, China, Sichuan, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range)

Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), south-southwest face.

By Peter Jensen-Choi, Corean Alpine Club A 23-member expedition led by Kim Kyu-tae, and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived at base camp (4,200m), on the west side of the range, on the 27th. At 2:30 p.m. on August 11 seven members reached the summit by a new route on the south-southwest face.

This was the third ascent of the mountain (see AAJ 2009). The following day another two climbers summited…. (read more) Ruiche Gongga from the southwest. Korean route marked. In 2008 French made the second ascent of this small peak northwest of Jiazi by climbing to the col on the right, and then following the southeast ridge to the top. Supplied by Peter Jensen-Choi

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Sichuan: Daogou West http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/latest-news/

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On 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains – Siguniang National Park)

Daogou West (5,422m), northeast couloir and north ridge.

By Yan Dongdong, China On October 23-24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West via a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge (a bivouac was made halfway up the couloir). The team approached from the upper Changping Valley and sited base camp immediately below the face…. (read more)

Looking southwest towards Daogou (5,465m, left) and Daogou West (5,422m) from the north side of the upper Changping Valley. The 2008 Chinese route is marked. Daogou was climbed from the far side by an American team in 2005, while an Australian-New Zealand pair climbed Daogou West from the far side in 2006. Jeremy Thornley collection

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Sichuan: Abi west face by Yan Dongdong On 03.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Abi (5,694m), west face and southwest ridge, Shivering (not to summit).

By Yan Dongdong, China Abi has been climbed several times from the southeast and southwest, but had not been attempted from the west until July 2009, when He Lang and I tried from the Jiesigou Valley. The peak lies between the north end of the Shuangqiao Valley and the northeast branch of the Jiesigou, the valley immediately west of the Shuangqiao. We reached ca 5,500m on the southwest ridge, near the point where the rock met ice. However, it was around 2:20 p.m., cold, and we weren’t prepared for a

Abi from the west with the line Shivering. Yan Dongdong

bivouac on the glacier, so we retreated.

That night our tent at 5,100m was destroyed by ice falling from the glacier tongue, so we had to bivouac after all. It rained all night and we shivered in wet sleeping bags. In August 2010 Li Lan, Zhao Xingzheng, and I returned, hoping to complete the same route…. (read more)

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Kyrgyzstan: Ala Archa ascents On 03.09.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Ala Archa)

Pik 4,300m, northwest face, Discovery; Pik Svobodnaya Korea (4,778 m), north face, Balezin Route, first alpine-style and first free ascent; Pik Baylyan Bashi (4,720m), west face, Long Way Home.

By Sergey Dashkevich, Russia, supplied by Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru, photo captions translated by

Luca Calvi These days I’m interested in making single push, alpine mixed climbs without using either aid or fixed rope. Last winter Gennadiy Kabalin, Boris Tretjakov, and I had an unforgettable adventure in Ala Archa, one of my favorite places for winter climbing. To aid acclimatization we first made a new route on the northwest face of an unnamed 4,300m summit that lies on the west ridge of Korona (4,860m)…. A few days later we were below the incredible north face of Svobodnaya Korea (Free Korea peak). In my opinion the finest and most logical lines are situated toward the left side of the wall. The Balezin route was put up in 2000 over a six-day period, largely using aid (A3). We made our attempt in light alpine style. We wanted to climb as fast as possible, so took little gear and no bivouac equipment…. (read more)

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The north face of Svobodnaya Korea. (1) Kocherga Agafonova (Agafonov's Poker), (2) Balezin, 5B, 1991, (3) Svab, 5B, 1982, (4) Balezin, 5B, 2000, (5) Studenin, 6A, 1966 (6) Kustovskiy, 6A, 1969, (7) Mikhaylov, 6A, 1999, (8) Semiletkin, 6A, 1988, (9) Popenko, 6A, 1975 (10) Narodnyj (People's Route), Ruchkin, 6A, 2001, (11) Bezzubkin, 6A, 1969, (12) Ruchkin, 6A, 1997, (13) Myshlyayev, 5B, 1961, (14) Samarskij Variant (Samara's Variant), 5B, (15) Bagaev, 5B, 1974, (16) Barber, 5B, 1976, (17) AkimovGutnik, 5B, (18) Balezin, 5B, 1994, (19) Andreev, 5A, 1959, and (20) Lowe, 5A, 1976. Sergey Dashkevich

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Russia: Altai, Taban Bogdo Range, Ak Alakha Range On 03.07.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Russia, Altai)

Taban Bogdo Range, Russian Tent (4,117m), northeast couloir; Ak Alakha Range, Ak Alakha (3,650m), east ridge.

By Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic In September our Czech-Slovak expedition visited two areas of the southern Altai. We first traveled to the Taban Bogdo on the border with northwest Mongolia. Immediately north

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of Huiten, which forms the triple border point of Russia, Mongolia, and China, stands Russian Tent (a.k.a. Russkiy Shator), which had been climbed several times by its frontier ridges (east and southwest) and by easy glaciated slopes on the Mongolian side. Libor Kejr, Tomas Lakpa, and I made the first known ascent of the northeast couloir….

During the descent from Ak Alakha, showing route taken on final section of ascent. Michal Kleslo

Forty kilometers west, close to the triple border point of Russia, Kazakhstan, and China, lies the Ak Alakha, south of the Ukok Plateau. Prior to our expedition, this area had never been visited by mountaineers, only scientists and military. Due to its proximity to China, the region was closed to the public until 1991…. (read more)

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Pakistan: Hushe District, Ladies First On 03.07.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Pakistan, Masherbrum Range)

Hushe District, Las Damas Primero; Baush-ul, Spanish System – Very Good System; Cholon, second ascent but first to highest point.

By Francesc Estorach, Director de Comunicación, FEDME, Spain Under the direction of mountain guide Simon Elias, a female national climbing team from FEDME (Spanish mountaineering and climbing federation) made three ascents from the Hushe Valley. Maider Fraile, Miriam Marco, Maialen Ojer, Patty Trespando and Asuncion Yanguas spent a month living with the women of Hushe, getting to know their personal needs…. The main objective was a fine spire west of the lower Chogolisa Glacier, which local people had dubbed Sebas Tower as a tribute to Alvaro for his help with bettering the lot of Hushe people through an NGO project. Alvaro had noted this peak as an attractive objective

Las Damas Primero on an unnamed rock spike on the west flank of Baush-ul Below is the junction of the Hushe Valley with lower Aling and Masherbrum glaciers. FEDME

on previous visits. (read more)

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Norway: Kvasloya Island, Blammanen On 03.05.11, by lgriffin

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(Back to: Europe, Norway, Tromso Region)

Kvaloya Island, Blammanen (861m), Tingeling.

By Hansjörg Auer, Austria In 2007, on a visit with Markus Haid, I managed the first one-day ascent of Arctandria on the north face of Blamannen. I was so impressed that I decided to return in July with Much Mayr. During the first trip my eyes continually strayed left across the wall to Bongo Bar, a 400m line climbed in July

Tingeling pitch three. Hansjörg Auer on the 7c traverse from Bongo Bar to Atlantis. Reinhard Fichtinger

1998 by Marten Blixt, Thomas Ekefalk and Erik Massih. This six-pitch route has difficulties up to A3 and Norwegian 7 (F6c+). While I was certain the rock quality wasn’t as good as Arctandria, I could see that this section of face held immense potential for difficult, free, multi-pitch routes. After two days on the wall we started to feel a little downhearted. The third, steeply overhanging pitch of Bongo Bar was completely wet. Free climbing it was impossible. But why not try traversing left onto virgin territory? What about a link-up of the routes Bongo Bar and Atlantis? The latter was one of the original routes to breach the north face…. (read more)

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California: Dana Plateau, Mt. Chamberlin On 03.04.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Dana Plateau, Butterflies and Rainbows; Mt. Chamberlin, various routes.

By Josh Finkelstein, AAC In July, Chris Brown and I set our sights on a large, east-facing dihedral on a broad wall just northeast of the famed Third Pillar of Dana. When viewed from the edge of the Dana Plateau, this “wall” reveals itself as a long and complex ridge reaching east. We approached as per the Third Pillar, descending the rock ridge to its immediate north and then east across talus and scree to the base.

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A brief 5.9 section past a chockstone led to rambling terrain and a large ledge at the base of another large dihedral, from where we climbed 200′ of splitter cracks on the face to the right, gained another big ledge, then climbed another 200′ of fun 5.6 on the ridge that forms the left margin of the main dihedral. We moved the belay to a large tree in the main dihedral and traversed a hairy butt crack right, and then back left, to a ledge.

Some of the routes on the northeast face of Mt. Chamberlin, including those climbed in 2010. Other routes exist in this image, including, but not limited to, those in the AAJ 2007, p. 147 (see below). Chris Brown

That led to a long 5.10- corner, followed by a classic 5.10+ ropestretcher to the ridge crest. We hopped boulders along the ridge back to the Third Pillar approach/descent ridge, and scrambled back to the Plateau. Although it’s unlikely that our route, Butterflies and Rainbows (1,000′, IV 5.10+), is the first line on the wall, a search of the AAJ online database returned no other routes. This wall, however, certainly holds potential for many other interesting lines. In mid-August we met our friends Mike Pennings and Jimmy Haden in Whitney Portal….

(read more)

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California: Mt. Chamberlin On 02.27.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Mt. Chamberlin, Innominata .

From communication with Dave Nettle On July 3, 2009, Dave Nettle and Reuben Shelton climbed a new route on the central buttress of the northeast face of Chamberlin. Innominata (5.11 A1) is mostly free, with two points of aid, and climbs all independent terrain. It starts with two vertical, wide-crack pitches just right of Breaking Point, continues straight up on the far right side of the central buttress, then into big, steep corners just right of the number “3” in the photo on p. 147 of the AAJ 2007 .

(see topo)

From AAJ 2007, showing some of the routes on Chamberlin, for reference regarding the location of Innominata. We’ve since learned that other routes exist on this face.

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Nepal: Tsuro Ri On 02.26.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Tsuro Ri (ca 6,100m), north face attempt.

By Daniele Nardi, Italy, translated by Luca Calvi While walking back from Island Peak I saw what I thought were a series of ice runnels on the northern flank of Tsuro Ri, the shoulder on the northwest ridge of Ama Dablam, and decided I had to try them. I believe every mountaineer has demons that try to stop him pursuing his or her dreams and I had to fight against my own before starting up this virgin face of Tsuro Ri. Andrea di Donata and I attempted a line right in the middle of the face. The route was midway between the righthand ridge (climbed in 2001 by Cartwright and Cross as the opening part of their complete ascent of Ama Dablam’s northwest ridge), and the Japanese route on the northwest face. We took food for

Ama Dablam (left) and Tsuro Ri with the line of the Italian attempt on the north face. (B) marks the bivouac site. North ridge of Ama Dablam in profile, and the northwest face, climbed by Slovenian and Japanese routes, points toward the camera. Daniele Nardi

five days, a gaz stove and three canisters. Earlier on the this I’d lost a rucksack containing my bivouac sack, so a lodge keeper gave me a blue plastic bag that I could slip inside of…. (read more)

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Yosemite National Park: Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne On 02.25.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Yosemite National Park, Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, new routes.

By Sevve Stember, AAC This July, I had the honor of fulfilling the mission of the Mountain Fellowship Award by establishing new routes on unnamed features near Waterwheel Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Yosemite National Park. Over the course of two weeks Alan Holzkopf, Scott Rysdahl, Maura LaRiviere, and I established four new routes. The most notable route, the Fortress Wall (700′, 8 pitches, IV 5.11- A2+), took us three days. To find the formation, walk down

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river from Glen Aulin (roughly one hour), past the prominent dome known as Wild Cat Point, until you see a striking wall on the north side of the canyon. Our route links a series of fantastic crack systems, with some exciting face climbing and tenuous glacially polished

Unnamed formations near Waterwheel Falls, showing the Fortress Wall route (700', 5.11- A2+). The shorter routes behind and right are Alpha Male (90', 5.11- A0) and Raw Dog (400', 5.10+). Sevve Stember

traverses, on the east end of the south face. The free climbing is high quality, with only one pitch of aid…. (read more)

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Sequoia National Park: Tamarack Lake area On 02.22.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Sequoia National Park, Tamarack Lake area, new routes.

By Brandon Thau On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautiful granite tower, surrounded by snow and set against a blue sky above Tamarack Lake. Even from a distance, we could see scoops, knobs, and chickenheads. It was like falling upon an unclimbed Charlotte Dome. We returned in the summer, and on July 13, 2007, we established the first route on the Prism (our name for the tower). The Left Facet (13 pitches, 5.10a R) starts on the lowest part of the tower and follows the left skyline to the pointy summit block. The route climbs featured slabs, cracks, runnels, and a steep face up high. Once atop the summit block we were surprised that the climb wasn’t over…. (read more)

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The new climbs above Tamarack Lake (the first three are on the Prism: (A) Left Facet (Harder-LaBounty-Thau, 2007). (B) Pig with Lipstick (LaBounty-Thau, 2010). (C) Right Facet (HarderLaBounty, 2009). (D) Saber Ridge (LaBounty-Thau, 2010).

Brandon Thau

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Sequoia National Park: Tamarack On 02.22.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Sequoia National Park, Tamarack Lake area, new routes .

By Brandon Thau On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the

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On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, Chris LaBounty, Neal Harder, and I spotted a beautiful granite tower, surrounded by snow and set against a blue sky above Tamarack Lake. Even from a distance, we could see scoops, knobs, and chickenheads. It was like falling upon an unclimbed Charlotte Dome. We returned in the summer, and on July 13, 2007, we established the first route on the Prism (our name for the tower). The Left Facet (13 pitches, 5.10a R) starts on the lowest part of the tower and follows the left skyline to the pointy summit block. The route climbs featured slabs, cracks, runnels, and a steep face up high. Once atop the summit block we were surprised that the climb wasn’t over…. (read more)

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The new climbs above Tamarack Lake (the first three are on the Prism: (A) Left Facet (Harder-LaBounty-Thau, 2007). (B) Pig with Lipstick (LaBounty-Thau, 2010). (C) Right Facet (HarderLaBounty, 2009). (D) Saber Ridge (LaBounty-Thau, 2010).

Brandon Thau

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Yosemite: Liberty Cap On 02.21.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Yosemite Valley, Liberty Cap, Scarface.

By Josh Mucci In late June, Steve Bosque and I completed a 13-pitch independent line on the west face of Liberty Cap. The route follows a long crack system that shoots straight through the huge white scar, the wall’s most prominent feature.

Steve and his wife, Paula, started the climb in 2004. Soon after, Chuck Clance joined them before an injury forced them to fix and descend from the top of pitch three. Steve mentioned the line in early spring and we headed straight for it, replacing the fixed lines and establishing a 4th pitch, which brought us to the base of the scar. We fixed and came back in late June for the final push. We were greeted by impeccable cracks cutting through the bulletproof

Scarface, on the west face of Liberty Cap. Photo: Joe Hornof/qitnl.com

rockscar. Late on the 3rd day, with a heat-wave moving in, Steve made a great effort on pitch seven by drilling eight rivets and then nailing straight up into an A2 corner crack that ended at the base of the “Cubano Corner.” After adding a belay bolt, we hauled the bags and I racked-up for the most impressive corner I have climbed…. (read more)

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Washington: Le Petit Cheval On 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Washington)

Le Petit Cheval, First Amendment.

By Ian Nicholson, AAC Chris McNamara and I climbed a new route, First Amendment (IV 5.11a), in September 2009, just right of center on Le Petit Cheval’s northwest face. The rock was excellent but, as is normal for the area, many cracks were filled with dirt. We approached as per Spontaneity Arête (II/III 5.7, Goldie-Johnston, 2004), then from its base we traversed about 250 yards toward the middle of the face on 3rd- and 4th-class ledges. Our route begins with a 100′ 5.4 chimney and hand crack to a large ledge. P2 (150′) is a slightly vegetated 5.8 hands and fists corner that starts around the corner from a 5.10 splitter finger crack. P3 (120′) is 5.9 and follows the same corner before breaking right on thin face climbing and gaining a ledge with a

The northwest face of Le Petit Cheval: (1) Paul Revere (II+ 5.9+, Allen-Mitchell, 2006). (2) First Amendment (9 pitches, IV 5.11a McNamara-Nicholson, 2009). (3) Spontaneity Arête (II/III 5.7, Goldie-Johnston, 2004). Ian Nicholson

cave. P4 (120′) climbs sweet 5.8+ finger cracks to a large slabby ledge. P5 traverses around right to a ledge (after many attempts to go left failed).

P6 is a sweet 5.9 finger crack. P7 (150′) is a 5.10+ series of corners and roofs that take very thin protection (knifeblades and Lost Arrows would be useful). P8 is… (read more)

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California: Fourth Needle On 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, California)

Fourth Needle, East Face.

By Bernd Zeugswetter Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire just south and essentially part of the Third Needle along the Whitney Crest. The route goes through two roofs and corners on the east face of the narrow pillar. We did a couple of exploratory trips in June and July, and climbed the route on August 21. The rock gets better and better going up. We used a little aid through the roof sections, but it may well go free. As it stands, the free climbing http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/latest-news/

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free. As it stands, the free climbing pitches are good fun and go from 3rdclass scrambling to about 5.11. We are referring to it as the East Face of Fourth

The East Face of Fourth Needle, along the Whitney Crest. Bernd Zeugswetter

Needle…. (read more)

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Montana: Beartooths On 02.20.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Montana)

Beartooth Mountains, various routes.

By Doug Shepherd, Colorado Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths.

We managed a major route each trip, which made the long and remote approaches worthwhile.

After speaking with several

Funeral For Another Friend, on the Bullet, Rock Creek Canyon. Doug Shepherd

Beartooth climbers, we think these routes are likely new. On Spirit Mountain, in Rock Creek Canyon, the Central Chimney (2,200′, V WI4 M6R) climbs the large chimney right of Lunar Arête. We found compact rock that did not easily yield protection or belays. On the Bullet, also in Rock Creek, Daniel Burson, Aaron, and I established Funeral For Another Friend (IV WI4 M6+), an extension to Funeral For a Friend (Jim Kanzler and Jack Tackle, 1978)…. (read more)

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Nepal: Lhotse, west flank of north ridge On 02.18.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Lhotse (8,516m), west flank of north ridge.

By Denis Urubko, Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army, translated by Luca Calvi The idea of a route up Lhotse from the South Col had been floating in the air

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for a long time. The north ridge is a logical line, but what about the pinnacles on the crest? What about climbing lower, along the west flank, along the rocky ledges that run toward the couloir of the Normal Route? For many years I had looked at this variant as a possible means of completing an Everest-Lhotse traverse. I’d tried it with Simone Moro. In spring 2010 I was back again with Simone, and together we reached Camp 3 (7,300m) on the Lhotse Face. Then the situation became complicated, and put me under great psychological pressure.

Lhotse west face from Western Cwm, (1) Standard Everest route to (SC) South Col. (2) Normal Route on Lhotse - West face couloir.

(3) Urubko route on west flank of north ridge. Denis Urubko

A Russian on the expedition died; our client refused to continue with the ascent; Simone fell ill; the wind was strong and the rocks of the ridge looked sinister. And I could not forget my friend Sergey Samoilov, who died in 2009 [Editor's note: Samoilov and Urubko climbed new routes in alpine style on Broad Peak in 2005 and Manaslu in 2006. He died in the spring of 2009 during a Kazakh expedition attempting the Everest-Lhotse traverse]. On May 15 when I reached the South Col alone and pitched my tent at 7,900m, all these negative thoughts were in my mind…. (read more)

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Kyrgyzstan: Karakol and Arpa valleys On 02.18.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Torugart-too)

Various peaks above the Karakol and Arpa valleys.

By Mark Weeding, UK In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too and in particular to push further along the Fergana Range, an extension of the Torugart-too running northwest along the divide between the regions of Osh and Naryn. We began by again visiting the Naryn Tal to acclimatize. The wooded valleys make for beautiful camping and the clear streams pleasant fording. We climbed a prominent peak at the head of the Kandi Valley. Steep moraine led to a long snow bowl and onto the flank of the northeast ridge.

Crossing below a prominent gendarme, we roped up for a steep loose step. This

Enigmatic peaks of the Torugart-too rise above the Arpa Valley.

Mark Weeding

was fortunate as Misha took a fall. A direct ascent of the headwall led to the summit of Pik 4,450m. To the west we could see the mountain I climbed in 2008 (AAJ 2009). There was no evidence that any human had been here before, but ibex tracks crossed the summit. We then moved south to the Torugarttoo, driving across trackless country in 4WD. We stopped at the last civilization; a collection of yurts hard up against an impassable Karakol River, but with a way open to the target valleys we had identified in the UK…. (read more)

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Kyrgyzstan: Mur Samir, Pik Karyshkyr, False Pik On 02.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Torugart-too)

Mur Samir (5,035m), northeast ridge; Pik Karyshkyr (4,836m), Ten Pin; False Pik (4,801m), west face.

By Adam Russell, UK The Torugart-Too is a range of glaciated peaks rising to 5,000m on the border between Kyrgyzstan and China. There have been few expeditions, but the highest peak, Mustyr (5,108m), was first climbed in 2007 by Barney Harford and Pat Littlejohn. We knew that the recent revolution and riots in Kyrgyzstan might cause problems, and when we boarded the flight to Bishkek in July, it was suspiciously empty. On our first day in the capital we were picked up by local police and taken to the station, but they only wanted to check our paperwork and search us for knives. Soon, with the help of our agency, ITMC, we were driving south, and a few days later established

Peaks at head of unnamed glacier east of Mustyr. (A) Torolok (4,870m) climbed by Leach, Moneypenny and Nichols from the UK via the central north face ice slope (D). (B) Mur Samir. (1) ProctorTaylor (first) ascent via northeast ridge, and (2) their descent. (3) Diligent Epiphany (Moneypenny-Nichols, TD-, descended via 2).

Adam Russell.

base camp in the Mustyr Valley opposite Middle Sister. While two of us climbed, the third would remain at base camp the entire time to guard against inquisitive locals, who showed a keen interest in our gear‌. (read more)

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Kyrgyzstan: Dzhirnagaktu Valley On 02.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-too)

Dzhirnagaktu Valley, first ascents and new routes.

By Tomasz Owerko, Poland Friends from the Krakow High Mountain Club expedition wanted to explore Dzhirnagaktu Valley, which lies immediately west of the Kyzyl Asker Glacier basin, and between it and the Ak-Bai-Tal. Before we left we couldn’t find any record of previous visits by mountaineers. On August 3, after crossing three glacial run-offs, we established base camp at 3,800m. From here it took five days to transport all our gear up to an advanced base at 4,271m.

During this period we discovered our

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Rock Horse with (1) Norwecki-Picheta route from west, (2) north face direct of Raven Peak, and (3) attempted route on west ridge.

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satellite phone was not working, so on the 6th, in an attempt to find a signal, we climbed onto a nearby ridge, in the

face direct of Raven Peak, and (3) attempted route on west ridge.

These peaks were first climbed by Soviets, most likely in 1985, along the skyline ridge. Tomasz Owerko

process reaching the top of two summits that we named Sputnik Hope (4,371m) and Long Spire (4,564m). On the 9th we made an unsuccessful attempt on what was unanimously agreed to be the focal point of the entire valley, a peak we named Night Butterfly (5,056m)…. (read more)

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Nepal: Pharilapcha On 02.14.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Pharilapcha (6,017m), north face, Korean Route.

By Yoo Hak-jae, Corean Alpine Club, translated by Peter Jensen-Choi Hwang Gi-yong, Shin Dong-seok, and I started climbing a new line on the left side of the north face at 1 a.m. on December 13 [the prominent spur immediately left of the 2008 Polish route, Independence Day. See AAJ 2009].

We had hoped to find the way by moonlight, but when we reached 5,000m at 2:30 a.m., it was simply too dark, and we had to wait until 6:30 a.m. before continuing. At first the terrain was mixed, but at ca 5,200m we had to climb an eight-meter overhanging crack followed by 10m of unprotected slab, for which we took off crampons. Above, we gained the lip of a protected snowfield and settled down to bivouac for the night at 5,367m…. (read more)

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North Face of Pharilapcha. (1) East Ridge (Bremond-ConstantDegonon-Thomas, 2006). (2) Korean Route with bivouac sites marked. (3) Independence Day (Krol-Sokolowski-Wojcik, 2008).

(4) Japanese Variant (Ichimura-Nakagawa, 2007). (5) Bonfire of the Vanities (Constant-Mercader, 2003). Yoo Hak-jae

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Pakistan: Margherita Peak, K7 West, Farol West On 02.09.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Pakistan, Charakusa Valley)

Margherita’s Peak (5,400m), south ridge, Open Eyes; K7 West (6,615m), southwest pillar, attempt; Farol West (6,370m), west face, Telegraph Road.

By Daniele Nardi, Italy Bad weather thwarted our plans to

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Bad weather thwarted our plans to attempt unclimbed Hassan Peak. Instead, Lorenzo Angelozzi and I looked elsewhere and attempted three other summits, on two of which we were successful. Our first ascent was Margherita’s Peak, a previously unclimbed rock tower at the end of the south ridge of Farol West. It makes a good acclimatization ascent after arriving in the Charakusa, with an approach that involves a night’s sleep at the end of the glacier moraine. We climbed the south ridge. An ice slope led into a goulotte, where the climbing became steeper and more mixed. Finally, two rock pitches led to the top. We

Farol West from the southwest with (1) Telegraph Road, and (2) Open Eyes to the summit of Margherita's Peak. Daniele Nardi

named the route Open Eyes (WI5 M5 UIAA V, 400m) because it opened our own eyes to the possibilities on Farol West, which would subsequently become our goal. We then attempted a new line on the southwest pillar of K7 West [dubbed the Badal Wall in 2007 by the Belgian-Polish team that nearly

climbed it] in capsule style…. (read more)

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Kazakhstan: Talgar On 02.04.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kazakhstan, Tien Shan, Zailiskiy Alatau)

Talgar (4,973m), northwest face; South Talgar (4,950m), southwest face.

By Denis Urubko, Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army, translated by Ekaterina Vorotnikova For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the foundation of our mountaineering. Even though roads reach 3,000m, climbing routes can be long and difficult; they allow climbers to gain the first level in our sports program. Talgar is the highest peak in the range, but access is relatively difficult. Roads are cracked and have not been repaired for a long time, approaches to the mountains are long and have not been maintained, there is a fee for parking, and base camps are at a shockingly low altitude. For the last 20 years it has been easier and cheaper for

Northwest face of Talgar main summit showing 2010 KomarovUrubko route right of the rock buttress of Pelevin's route. Denis Urubko

us to climb in neighboring Kyrgyzstan.

However, in 2010 there was a revolution in Kyrgyzstan. If something else were to happen while we were climbing there, the return home could be extremely difficult. So this year we stayed in our home country…. (read more)

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Alaska: Devil’s Thumb traverse On 02.02.11, by kcordes

(Back to: Alaska, Coast Mountains)

Devil’s Thumb, Diablo Traverse.

By Colin Haley, AAC, Seattle On August 12, Mikey Schaefer and I flew with Temsco Helicopters from Petersburg, Alaska, to a camp below the southeast face of Devil’s Thumb. Our objective was a complete traverse of the Devil’s Thumb massif, climbing over the summits of the Witches’ Tits, Cat’s Ears Spires, and finally Devil’s Thumb itself.

Like the Torres Traverse to Andrea Sarchi, this traverse is originally the dream of Dieter Klose, the Stikine Icecap’s most dedicated disciple. The

The west-to-east line of The Diablo Traverse. Colin Haley

traverse was attempted in 2004 by Jon Walsh and Andre Ike, who became the first to traverse all four spires of the Witches’ Tits and Cat’s Ears (making the first ascent of the East Witches’ Tit in the process), but were stopped at the base of the Thumb by a chopped rope.

On the morning of August 13 we departed our basecamp and made a descending, traversing approach to the base of the Witches’ Tits. We climbed to the notch between the two Witches’ Tits by the EdwardsMillar route, with the Ike-Walsh Witches’ Cleavage variation…. (read more)

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USA: RMNP, Chief’s Head, Flight of the Kiwi On 02.01.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Colorado)

Chief’s Head, Flight of the Kiwi .

By Blake Herrington, AAC Two pitches up the classic route Birds of Fire, I looked 400′ left to a series of inviting cracks and corners. One more route appeared on my ever-growing todo list. When the RMNP guidebook and other founts of local knowledge came up short regarding the line, it bumped to the top of my list. Graham Zimmerman and I began climbing on a cold and misty day in July, “Washington conditions” to us two Northwest natives.

And despite our best efforts to find moss and wet cracks, an array of clean edges and dry stone abounded. The route’s crux came early on pitch two, with a tenuous rightward slab leading to

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The northwest face of Chief’s Head: (1) Papoose (Harlin-Wheeler,

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the clean cracks that had drawn us here.

After six pitches of well-protected climbing, we topped-out the face amid active storms. A week later I returned with Joe Sambataro, another Washington native who, like Graham and me, had

The northwest face of Chief’s Head: (1) Papoose (Harlin-Wheeler, 1980). (2) Flight of the Kiwi (both variations shown; HerringtonSambataro-Zimmerman, 2010). (3) Kachina Winds (HoranBaldwin, 1992). (4) Seven Arrows (Fowler-Harlin, 1980). (5) Birds of Fire (Rossiter-Rossiter-Woolf, 1988). All lines except (2) are approximate, following vague features. Blake Herrington

spent formative climbing time in New Zealand. We repeated the route to the top of the face, with a better variation on clean cracks to the right for pitches three and four, and then climbed five more pitches (with a 3rd-class section in the middle) to the summit. The final pitches, along Chief’s Head’s north ridge, had likely been climbed before. In all, Flight of the Kiwi (1,200′, IV 5.10+) provides a boltless alternative to Birds of Fire at a similar grade. We climbed the route clean and onsight, and the final five pitches can be reached from any route on the northwest face for those not seeking an “end of the technical difficulties” 500′ below the summit. (more photos)

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India: Singekang Valley On 01.31.11, by lgriffin

Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge.

By Jeremy Windsor, UK , Alpine Club In October-November we made an attempt on Singekang (Lion Peak), an unclimbed mountain situated at the head of the Singekang Valley. In doing so, we became the first mountaineers to explore this remote Spiti valley…. Situated close to the valley entrance, Pomrang proved to be an ideal

The head of the Singekang Valley. The snow and rock pyramid center is the northwestern outlier (dubbed Singekang Minor) of Singekang. Summit of Singekang is just visible immediately behind. Jeremy Windsor

starting point. We spent the next eight days establishing three camps along the valley, and within two weeks of leaving home were ready to make an attempt on the mountain. From high camp we made a long traverse south around Singekang’s subsidiary northwestern peak, before turning sharply east into a sheltered snowy bowl. Ahead lay a steep and rather intimidating slope covered in loose scree and featuring a tall rock tooth…. (read more)

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India: Miyar Valley, Dome Peak & Point JAMES On 01.31.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Himachal

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(Back to: Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh)

Miyar Valley, Dome Peak (5,650m), Lopez-Pfaff Direct; Point JAMES (4,965m), Southeast Ridge.

By Camilo Lopez, Colombia/USA At the end of August, after a three-day trek, Anna Pfaff and I established base camp in the Miyar, at the same spot we had used for our visit in 2008, the grassy meadow below Castle Peak. We set off on September 1 for the southeast face of unnamed Peak 5,650m on the

Lopez-Pfaff Direct on southeast face of Dome Peak. Camilo Lopez

north side of the Chhudong Valley [immediately southwest of Veneto Peak and northeast of Premsingh Peak]. Accessing the face via steep talus and a dry gully proved the most dangerous part of the climb.

Apart from a few loose sections, the climbing above was good and generally 5.8-5.9 until we reached three-quarters height‌. I led a steep face of 5.10, then Anna led two pitches of 5.10+, overcoming a loose section before I continued up moderate 5.8 terrain to the summit, arriving in twilight. We slung the most prominent section of the summit with our cordalette, and then began the first of 14 rappels through the night‌. (read more)

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Greenland: Paul Stern Land first ascents.

On 01.30.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, East Coast Greenland)

Paul Stern Land, several first ascents.

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Paul Stern Land, several first ascents.

By Jim Gregson, UK, Alpine Club After a first visit to the area in 2008 (see AAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia), Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), my wife Sandy, Willem-B Stern (Netherlands/Switzerland), and I returned to the fine mountains of Paul Stern Land. The combined age of our team was 367 years.

Willem-B is the brother of Paul Stern, after whom the area is named. Like his brother he is also a geologist. He had found my 2008 report, and then made contact, eventually deciding to join our expedition to see the area first hand. In 1959 Paul Stern was killed by stonefall in the Swiss Alps, but between 1955 and 1958 he visited Northeast Greenland as a member of Lauge Koch’s geological expeditions. In 1958 Stern was on the Gaaseland Peninsula, but with others crossed the Vestfjord Gletscher to access what is now called Paul Stern Land from the south. His party climbed a peak they called Sfinks (Sphinx, 2,295m).

In 2008 we had believed we were the first to climb in Paul Stern Land, but research since has also revealed‌. (read

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Unclimbed rock walls on the north side of upper Vinkeldal. Jim Gregson

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Nepal: Peak 5,777m; Jobo LeCoultre, Lunag I On 01.29.11, by lgriffin

Peak 5,777m; Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m) northeast face to southeast ridge; Lunag I southeast top, southeast face, Close the Door.

By Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO After a flight to Lukla and a seven-day trek, including a rest day in Thame, a four man team established base camp south of the Lunag Group at 5,200m, close to the Lunag Glacier. The site was superb: on grass, with running water, and a nice collection of boulders. From here they made their first acclimatization climb together with their sirdar, for whom it proved a novel experience. This was a north-south traverse of Peak 5,777m, south of the Lunag Glacier,

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climbed in 2009 by Stéphane Schaffter’s Swiss-French-Nepal-Pakistan expedition (AAJ 2010). Several days later the four set out to complete their acclimatization with an attempt on Jobo LeCoultre (6,478m), a peak on the frontier ridge southwest of the Lunags and claimed to have been summited by the Schaffter expedition. The northeast face was in much drier condition than when climbed by the Swiss, and the four-man team followed the main couloir parallel to, but well left of, the 2009 route. On the first

Lunag I southeast top. Close the Door with bivouac sites marked, the last few meters below the summit.

day they climbed 500m, predominately over snow, to reach a fine bivouac site at 5,800m. Next day 400m of gully and steep mixed climbing led to the southeast ridge, up which they progressed to below a small “top” at ca 6,200m, immediately before the notch reached by the Swiss…. (read more)

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China: Seerdengpu, Sichuan On 01.27.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: China, Sichuan, Qonglai Mountains- Siguniang National Park)

Seerdengpu (5,592m), northeast ridge, Headwaters; Pt. 5,086m, near miss.

By Dylan Johnson, AAC On September 13, after two previous attempts, Chad Kellogg and I reached the summit of previously unclimbed Seerdengpu, the high point above the heads of the Changping and Shuangqiao valleys. The north and west faces above the Shuangqiao are 1,500m granite walls, and remarkably accessible: one can take a public bus along a paved road to within a couple of hours walk of the base. The more remote south and east faces above the Changping are 1,200m high and provide a combination of big walls and alpine mixed terrain.

Chad and I had made a reconnaissance of this peak in 2008, after our ascent of Siguniang (AAJ 2009). Seerdengpu has been translated as Barbarian, Yeti, or Savage Peak. It’s northern aspect distinctly resembles the head of a savage, and our original plan was to climb the unmistakable 1,400m nose.

This compelling line has attracted around a dozen expeditions over the last decade … (read more)

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Pt. 5,086m and the almost-completed line up the northwest arête. Dylan Johnson

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Alaska: Mantok II On 01.25.11, by kcordes

Mantok II, first ascent, Ladies’ Couloir; Peak 10,020′, northwest face to summit ridge.

By Christopher Wright, AAC After reading trip reports and getting beta from Freddie Wilkinson, who along with various partners has established multiple climbs in the area, from April 8–20 Joey McBrayer and I explored the Northeast Fork of the Yentna Glacier. In mostly dismal weather we attempted several unclimbed features with limited success. Early in the trip we climbed the northwest face (3,000′, AI4+ M5R) of an unnamed 10,020′ peak, but did not continue to the summit….

Then, after considerable cowering and a few more aborted efforts, we made what we believe was the first ascent of a ca 9,600′ peak we called

Joey McBrayer descending the summit ridge of Mantok II. Christopher Wright

Mantok II…. (read more)

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Afghanistan: Qala-i-Hurst Valley On 01.17.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa, Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-Forot Zorman.

By Marion Michielsen. Provided, with additional information, by Daniel

Kuipers, The Netherlands.

We wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without many climbers, within our limited budget, and with mountains below 6,000m.

Our gaze had already turned towards the “stan” countries of Central Asia,

The expansive upper Qala-i-Hurst Glacier basin. (A) Koh-e-Beefy.

(B) Koh-e-Baffa. (C) Koh-e-Forot Zorman. (D) top of unnamed peak attempted by Dutch. (E) Koh-e-Yakhi. Low rocky ridge in right foreground is southern end of Pt. 5,200m, climbed in 2008.

Bart Klein

when we discovered the strange strip of land between Tajikistan and Pakistan, known as the Wakhan Corridor. After some internet research, we decided this would be our goal: an area untouched by the war in the rest of Afghanistan, with friendly people, and many beautiful, unclimbed mountains.

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We arrived at the Tajikistan-Afghanistan border with 200kg of luggage. It felt strange to be entering voluntarily a country that makes the news headlines on a daily basis with stories of war and terrorism.

Slightly nervous due to our satellite phone, a supply of strong medicines, and a video camera, we approached the check-point. Our worries turned out to be groundless. The Afghan border guards were happy and friendly, and only had a special interest in our stack of Netherlands candy…. (read more)

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Afghanistan: Noshaq (7,492m).

On 01.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Afghanistan, Hindu Kush)

Noshaq (7,492m).

By Lindsay Griffin, UK, Alpine Club From 2007-2010 there were four ascents of Noshaq, the highest mountain in Afghanistan and second highest in the Hindu Kush. In the autumn of 2007 Iranians Mehdi Amidi and Azim Qeychi-Saz became only the second group of climbers to reach the summit in nearly 30 years. In 2003, Carlo Alberto Pinelli, gained official permission to visit the Wakhan Corridor with his expedition “Oxus, Mountains for Peace in Afghanistan.” His team made the first ascent of Noshaq in 25 years, though they had to deal with unexpected objective danger in the approach valley, which they discovered had been planted three years previously with over 600 antipersonnel mines (AAJ 2004)…. (read more)

Noshaq, showing Pinelli's line of ascent in 2003.

Carlo Alberto Pinelli

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Greenland: Ummannaq region On 01.15.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, West Greenland)

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(Back to: Greenland, West Greenland)

Ummannaq region, Pt 2,280m; Ummannaq south, southeast face.

By Sean Mackay, USA In 2009 the 15m sailing vessel Gambo spent July and August supporting glaciological and oceanographic research on two major outlet glaciers of the Greenland ice sheet. When the skill-set of the crew was not in demand for science objectives, it was put to use establishing new routes in the stunning Ummannaq region.

Our most significant mountaineering

Silvan Leinss leading pitch five (5.9) of the Doyle-Leinss Route on Ummannaq. Sean Mackay

achievement was the first ascent of the unclimbed 2,280m peak on the south side of Rink’s (a.k.a Kangigdleq) Fjord. This mountain, located at N 71°31’51.57″, W 52°19’23.19″, 1.8 km northeast of Timumanikavsa, appears to be the highest in West Greenland. Gambo’s owner, Alun Hubbard, had discovered that due to mapping inaccuracies, previous successful ascents of the ‘highest mountain’ had reached a large (but 35m lower) peak named Snepyramiden, about nine kilometers south-southwest of Pt 2,280m…. (read more)

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2010: Makalu, partial new route, southwest face and west pillar.

On 01.12.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Nepal, East Nepal, Mahalangur Himal–Makalu Section)

Makalu, partial new route, southwest face and west pillar.

By Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru A large expedition from Ukraine, using fixed rope but no bottled oxygen nor high altitude Sherpa support, climbed new ground on the left side of Makalu’s southwest face. Led by Mstislav Gorbenko, the team divided into three groups, working on the route in shifts of five-seven days. Whilst one group was pushing out the fixed ropes, the other two would carry loads to high camps.

Each group had two-three days of rest in base camp after its working shift on the face. Base camp at the Hillary site (4,850m) was established on April 7, and advanced base (5,850m) two days later.

Above, the line of ascent can be divided into three sections…. (read more) The new Ukrainian Route on the southwest face of Makalu. The left skyline is the French (West) Ridge. Camps marked are ABC

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3/15/11 1:38 PM (5,700m), Camp 1 (6,200m), Camp 2 (6,600m), Camp 3 (7,000m), Camp 4 (7,500m), and Camp 5 (7,770m). Supplied by Anna Piunova, www.mountain.ru

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Sikkim: Lama Lamani North; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno On 01.12.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim, Western Sikkim)

Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt.

By Paul Swienton, AAC Inspired by British mountaineer Roger Payne and his accounts of the mountains of Sikkim, our team visited the Thangsing Valley. We first identified an obvious line on the west face of Lama Lamani, going up to a col south of the final elegant snow arête of the north top. Our route started below and to the right of left-trending ramps leading into a snow couloir that runs up to the col. At the col an impressive rock tower to the south lent a dramatic air to our perch and we could look across at the main (south) summit, connected to the north top by a pinnacled rock ridge. It was noon when we all reached the summit. By this time afternoon cloud had already built and we did not get a clear view to the east.

Bob Hamilton on the summit of Lama Lamani North with Jopuno behind. The unclimbed south ridge of Jopuno faces the camera, with the upper west face to the left.

Steve Kennedy.

We saw the impressive Pt. 5,833m (sometimes mistaken for Narsing), and caught a tiny glimpse of the top of the east face of Jopuno, which seemed extremely steep. Although, its unclimbed south ridge appears feasible, there seemed to be technical and time-consuming sections, and the top section, where the rock is black and reportedly much less sound, is pinnacled and looks rather tricky…. (read more)

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2010: Los Quemados, El Cardonal.

On 01.11.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Africa, Canary Islands, Gran Canaria)

Los Quemados, El Cardonal.

By Pat Littlejohn, UK, Alpine Club Geographically in Africa, but politically in Spain, Gran Canaria is a “mature” climbing area that has failed to get onto the radar of most climbers due to lack of information. Most of the Canary island of Gran Canaria is a beautiful and mountainous

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national park, rising in its center to almost 2,000m. There, volcanic cores of several mountains give rock scenery that is a cross between the Dolomites and the canyons of Arizona.

Traditional mountaineering has taken place since the 1930s, and in the early days routes were established by alpinists using pitons for protection and occasionally aid. In the early ’80s, climbers in Gran Canaria were still making hard traditional ascents, comparable with the adventurous sea cliff climbs being done in Britain at that time. Topos for these routes can be found in the central café/bar in Ayacata. They make impressive reading. The routes are big–up

Stephen Sustad on the sculptured rock of El Cardonal's fifth pitch. Pat Littlejohn

to eight or nine pitches–and hard, with naturallyprotected free pitches up to F7a. The topos still seem to be the only written information, but are not easy to interpret…. (read more)

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Alpine Peaks of Sikkim, by Roger Payne On 01.06.11, by jharlin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim)

Emerging from the Mists: The Sublime Alpine Peaks of Sikkim

By Roger Payne, Switzerland The article below from the 2008 American Alpine Journal is currently only available online in pdf formats.

To download a pdf (1.4mb) click here.

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Open publication - Free publishing - More sikkim

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India: Sikkim, Jopuno, attempt, history and corrections.

On 01.05.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Sikkim)

Western Sikkim, Jopuno, southwest face and west ridge, attempt; history and corrections.

By Roger Payne, Switzerland , Alpine Club In the autumn of 2009 Julie-Ann Clyma and I were back in Western Sikkim, and together with Hugh Sheehan, made an attempt on Jopuno. Luckily, although it became cloudy on many afternoons, we did not have a single day of

Jopuno (5,936m) is designated an “Alpine Peak,” which makes it easy and economical to get permission to climb. Roger Payne

precipitation…. Since writing my article for AAJ 2008, I have discovered that the 2001 ascent did not follow the south ridge. It appears that Kunzang Butia and Sagar Rai climbed snow on the northwest face and, if I have understood correctly, encountered loose rock, but did not traverse the main ridge to reach the highest point. I also realized that WW Graham described climbing “Jobonu” in 1883. In the 1884 Alpine Journal he writes that it was, “incomparably the hardest ascent we had in the Himalaya owing to the great steepness of the glacier work.” It is hard to imagine that Jopuno was climbed in 1883….

I also began to wonder if the highest point of this mountain had been reached, but after helpful correspondence with Jason Halliday and Josh Smith, who made the first ascent of the west ridge in 2008 (AAJ 2009), I think it fair to say that these two Americans reached the summit of this ridge, which may be the highest point of Jopuno…. (read more)

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USA: Hayden Spire, Dumbest Idea On 01.04.11, by kcordes

(Back to: North America, Contiguous USA, Colorado)

Hayden Spire, East Pinnacle, Dumbest Idea in the Park.

By Justin DuBois, Estes Park, Colorado In early July, Chris Trimble and I had the

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brilliant idea to climb the prominent north ridge of Hayden Spire’s East Pinnacle, which looks great from high on Trail Ridge Road— except that it’s a long ways away. We convinced ourselves it wouldn’t be so far if approached from the Flattop Mountain Trail, and so, bluffing with a pair of twos, we hiked

Hayden Spire from Trail Ridge Road, showing the north ridge route (“The Dumbest Idea in the Park”). Photo by Richard Ryer

in and then dropped down 1,500′ into the spire’s cirque. From the lowest point of the north ridge, staying mostly along the crest aside, we climbed to the top of the pinnacle in nine roped pitches, plus lots of scrambling (up to easy 5 th), and with a 100′ rappel off the first tower. It’s pretty clean, with three excellent pitches and the rest being…well, mountainy. We scrambled off and slogged back toward the Divide and the Flattop trail, returning to the trailhead after about 22 hours and 25 miles roundtrip. We couldn’t find any history of it being climbed before, and we informally named it for what a friend told us afterward: “That sounds like the dumbest idea in the park” (1,400′, 9 pitches, 5.9).

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India: Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m On 01.02.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Ladakh & Zanskar)

Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak 5,995m, southeast ridge.

By Chris Horobin, UK In 2007-09 I led expeditions to the Nubra Valley for the British Schools Exploring Society (BSES), picking off a few previously climbed and unclimbed peaks in the Thanglasgo Valley south of Hundar. Lying north of Leh in the rain shadow of the Himalaya, this region has seen few parties operate outside the main trekking routes, and because of its proximity to the Pakistan border, it is regarded by the Indian military as being particularly sensitive. It was during the 2009 expedition that plans were laid to attempt unclimbed Telthop (6,010m), which lies at the head of the Khalsar Dag Valley.

In 2010 our primarily British group arrived at the IMF offices in Delhi to discover that our intended approach from Hundar was impractical due to washed out bridges. We spent three days acclimatizing in Leh, and then crossed the Kardung La to Desket, where we attempted to reach the mountain over a high pass south of Desket Gompa. Although this would have worked, we were forced to retreat when we realized our horses could not follow due to steep rocky terrain…. (read more)

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Nepal: Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt.

On 01.02.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Nepal, Central Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section)

Kyashar (6,770m), south pillar, attempt. http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/latest-news/

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By Andy Houseman, Alpine Club On October 22, after a three-day trek from Lukla, Tony Stone and I arrived at Tangnag (4,300m), a collection of tea houses that has grown over the years due to the popularity of nearby Mera Peak. We made base camp here and then set about acclimatizing on Mera. … We had planned to reach the upper south pillar of Kyashar via the mixed ground directly below, left of the large rock wall above Tangnag. This was the way taken by Czech parties that reached the start of the upper pillar in 2001 and 2008 (AAJ 2009).

However, this autumn there was no trace of the ice the Czechs had used, just blank granite and rubblestrewn ledges. Instead, we decided to find a line through the rock wall that forms the base of the ridge…. (read more)

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India: Naufragi, by S. Vidal On 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Kinnaur)

Naufragi.

By Sílvia Vidal, Catalonia From August 15-September 8 I soloed a big wall south of the Kinnaur-Kailash Range. Before leaving for India the only information I had was a picture of the wall, which had first appeared on John Middendorf’s big wall web page, and its Google Earth coordinates. I had no idea how to start the approach, but once in the valley I Silvia Vidal on pitch 6 of Naufragi. Silvia Vidal showed the picture to locals…. As usual, I took neither phone, internet, GPS, nor other form of communication device…. I fixed the first three pitches (150m), and then spent 25 days alone on the face in horrible weather. On one occasion, while jumaring, I lost consciousness due to hypothermia. I had only taken 18 days food and water, and more than once thought about abandoning the climb. However, my motivation and desire to stay up there were stronger…. (read more)

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Kyrgyzstan: Khan Tengri, second ascent of Ukrainian Route.

On 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to: Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Tengri Tag)

Khan Tengri, second ascent of Ukrainian Route. http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/latest-news/

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By Gleb Sokolov, Russia. Supplied by Anna Piunova, www.

mountain.ru, translated by Ekaterina Vorotnikova In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believed at the time to be a new route on Khan Tengri. It began from the standard site of Camp 2 (5,300m) on the classic route from the south up the Semenovsky Glacier, and then followed a beautiful, logical and relatively easy line up the southwest face, between the Normal Route (Pogrebetskogo, 1931, Russian 5A) up the west ridge, and the 1964 Romanov Route up the south-southwest or Marble Rib (6A). We named our line Zmeyka (little snake) due to its sinuous nature, grading it 5B. I felt that it was generally safe and could be recommended to soloists. However, only later we discovered it was not new…. (read more)

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India: Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak, etc On 01.01.11, by lgriffin

(Back to India, Himachal Pradesh, Kullu)

Jiwa Nala, Snow Leopard Peak (5,365m), Sentinel Peak (5,140m), Tribulation Point (5,125m), Snowcock Point (4,890m).

By Mike Cocker, The Alpine Club In September-October Derek Buckle, Drew Cook, John Hudson, Laura Millichamp, and I, all members of the Alpine Club, visited the Jiwa Nala region of the Great Himalayan National Park. The Jiwa drains west toward the Beas River, south of the famous tourist resort of Manali. It lies in Banjar region, approximately 70kms east-southeast of the large regional town of Kullu. The area had been recommended by the Himalayan authority, Harish Kapadia, and as far as is known had not previously been visited by mountaineers. The valley can only be accessed by two difficult passes, and although shepherds have occasionally grazed their flocks there, it has never seen any permanent settlement…. (read more)

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Greenland: Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg; Tininnertuup III On 12.29.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, South Greenland–Cape Farewell Region )

Tasermiut Fjord, Hermelnbjerg, east face, The Corner of Mount Fayette; Tininnertuup III, Midnight Children.

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By Henrik Nilsson, Sweden

(There is a gallery of photos at the end of this report.)

The best-known climbed features in this valley are the Tininnertuup peaks II to IV. We set up camp below the Hermelnbjerg and on the first day went up to the col at the start of the east-northeast ridge, hoping to climb the peak by the easiest route. Unlike the British party in 2008, who were faced with four pitches of rock to reach the upper valley, we could walk easily on snow and then glacier. From the col we saw the unclimbed east face…. On July 10 Martins and Sellden attempted a new line on the north face of Hermelnbjerg, starting with a fantastic off-width splitter. They climbed four pitches up to 6c before it got dark and they rappelled.

Four days later Urby and I tried another…. (read more)

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Greenland: Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, DashFriday Route On 12.28.10, by lgriffin

(Back to: Greenland, South Greenland–Cape Farewell Region)

Tasermiut Fjord, Half Dome, Dash-Friday Route, second ascent with variants.

By Martin Klonfar, Czech Republic Jindrich Mandat and I came to Tasermiut mainly to repeat existing routes. It was only after we had picked the area’s most famous jewels that we began contemplating a moderate first ascent. We decided on the east-northeast face of Half Dome, which is something of an outsider here amongst all the big walls. Our information was rather scant, and we thought there was only one established route, Les Temps sont Durs (6c, 500m, 15 pitches, see AAJ 1999 ), which begins ca 80m left of the edge of the sheer north face and was put up in 1998 by the Swiss Castella, Lehner, Truffer and Zambetti. However, to the right, the

On the initial slabs of Half Dome. Martin

Klonfar prominent dihedral close to the edge of the face seemed to be unclimbed, and there was no sign of any of the equipped belays that were reported on Les Temps sont Durs. It wasn’t until we got home that we discovered the dihedral had been climbed in 2003 by Micah Dash and Thad Friday (5.10X, 500m, see AAJ 2004 ). (read more)

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