Kenyan Safari, November 2022

Text and Photographs by Paul Reinstein

A great opportunity to go on a safari crossed my path last year, so my wife and I signed up and checked off a bucket list item. I didn't really do any homework, and I just trusted the person leading the trip and went with it. We went to Kenya, specifically the Masai Mara and Amboselli National Park. Just for those who haven't been, the Mara is the Kenyan half of the region that, in Tanzania, is known as the Serengeti. Same habitat. The Masai are the indigenous people in the area, known historically as great warriors, and today they are great guides.

Having never been to Africa before, we had a wonderful time, and I was able to see and photograph 152 species (119 bird species, 29 mammal species, and 4 reptiles). We saw the big 5 {lions, leopards, rhinos, cape buffalos, and elephants}, and all of the big 3 cats {add cheetahs}. I was even fortunate enough to see and get shots of a cheetah kill (which, I understand, is not for everyone).

Some thoughts on the experience:

Do more homework than I did. We went to arguably the most visited site for safaris in Africa. The Masai guides do a great job of finding the aforementioned species, but they drive roughshod over the land, leaving tracks, and seemingly harming the savannah in the process. I'd recommend finding a place less trafficked. I don't know if that exists, but I'd at least look.

Also because there was so many people there, I saw several examples of what I would call the paparazzi effect; many jeeps converging on single animals of interest. For example, rhinos are relatively rare, and when one was spotted, about 25 jeeps raced to the scene and encircled it. It was a fairly large circle, so there was a good 200' or more between jeeps, but the animal knew it was surrounded, ran away from the first jeeps to arrive, and then as more arrived, it ran away from those, and when finally stopped, in the center, it turned haltingly to look for a way out, and about that time we left. It was pretty disturbing.

Another example was when a leopard was carrying its newborn cub to a safer den. Apparently, they give birth in a relatively open den in the savannah. Its messy, so after they clean up the cubs, they carry them to a safer den hidden in the brush. To get there, they carry the cubs one at a time, often along the roads (tire tracks). The guides, knowing that, park on the road and on either side of it, forming a semicircle, of up to 30 or 40 jeeps and wait on the approaching leopard. They're packed so tight that the leopard cannot go between them, and has to carry the cub under one of the jeeps. Also very disturbing. And it gets worse; as the cat passes the ends of the semicircle, those jeeps speed off down the road to secure better positions for the next semicircle, which repeats until the cat disappears into the brush.

Finally, we joined a group of jeeps following along with a pair of cheetah brothers who were hunting. I'm no expert, but I'm thinking that cats hunt by being somewhat stealthy. Having 20 diesel jeeps for an escort sort of reveals the secret, and at best, I would imagine that dinner was late that night. I would tell you that this was also disturbing, but honestly, I didn't think about it in real time. After I got home and was looking at my photos, it finally dawned on me that we were interfering with their dinners.

I get it. I understand that the tourist industry is the only thing between developers or ranchers and the wildlife, and that guides and safari organizers are trying to please their clients by getting to the perfect location for the shot/view. I understand that most people going on a safari have the big 5 and the big 3 cats as their primary target species. And I understand why there is no hiking out there and the drivers have to drive over the unspoiled land (you are not allowed out of the vehicles due to a number of dangerous predators throughout the area).

But I think those behaviors are short-sighted. First, I think its up to visitors to more evenly distribute themselves across Africa; its a huge continent with many wonderful parks and reserves. Second, I think the Kenyan Govt needs to establish rules (presumably the same for other Govts), the guides need to establish some form of etiquette and self-policing that minimizes the paparazzi effect, and tourists themselves need to lower their expectations and/or invest in longer lenses and better cameras and learn how to use them, so the guides don't need to get so close. If you shoot with a cell phone, expect to see a blurry speck.

Frankly, I don't think any of this is going to happen, but the readers of this magazine include many who do travel for wildlife photography. I'm not suggesting anyone forego a bucket list trip like ours, but I do wish I had researched it a bit more and gone somewhere further from the beaten track. Also, when the guides take you to a site with one of the big 5 or the big 3, and while your fellow travelers are looking or shooting out one side of the jeep, be sure look out the other side too; there are so many other beautiful animals out there. And don't be afraid to tell your trip leader or guides that you're interested in stopping and seeing other animals (than the big 5 or big 3). Its only if enough people do that, will the paparazzi effect begin to diminish, and the word will spread of the many other wonders in Africa.

Below, are a few images to enjoy. You're welcome to see these and many more from my 1 (and likely only) safari here. I always recommend viewing the website on the largest monitor you have to appreciate the higher resolution.