SPRING/ SUMMER 2O15
FA S H I O N TREND REPORT THE EDITOR- APPROVED GUIDE: SIX CONCEPT STORIES WITH THE KEY LOOKS, HOTTEST ACCESSORIES AND INSTANT STREET STYLE.
STORIES THE POWER OF WILL IN SMALL DOSES GARDEN OF EDEN THE WANDERER’S SONG THE LADY’S REIGN NIGHT OF DIVERGENCE
powerwillof
the
Are you ready for the race? It is known for its rocky terrains and challenging obstacles, but there are many ways to get to the end. Choosing the course of shortcuts may force you to tap out before the end. Choosing the path of health and wellness may just get you right to the finish line. Make your choice now. In this race that we call life, it’s the ones with the strength and willpower who survive. Ready? Set? Now go.
Fact: Trends evolve over time. While sportswear has been at the epicenter of runways
for the past few seasons, this coming spring shows a cleaner and fresher athletic concept. Favoring subtlety, designers are straying away from the stronger sports motifs. Incorporation of sporty themes has a strong presence, but is kept to a minimal, without being too obvious. This year, we saw a significant shift in the public’s attitude, which could have had a direct correlation to the fashion industry. There has been a renewed desire and emphasis on health and wellbeing, with people focusing on how to achieve such a balanced lifestyle. Trips back to the gym called for an increase of fashionable sports apparel, thus, pushing the trend forward into these past few seasons.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
AU JOUR LE JOUR
DSQUARED2
MARNI
KENZO
VIONNET
ALEXANDER WANG
FAY
SPORTY
Taking a step back from the streets, the athletic trend that has plagued the runway for the past few seasons gets an updated look. Instead of the grunge-esque attitude with graphics galore, the spring summer collections had a fresh new perspective. With sleeker lines and a more neutral color palette with little pops of colors in between.
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MONCLER GAMME ROUGE
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KYE
MARNI
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
MILLY
ALEXANDER WANG
VIONNET
DKNY
JOSEPH
MASHA MA
BOXY
A boxy jacket was the key silhouette of this story with designers such as Milly and Joseph fusing a sporty look with a sleek touch. This ties in with the overall look that the athletic trend seems to be heading towards. A touch of minimalism and elegance mixed with a futuristic sports aesthetic.
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AU JOUR LE JOUR
ALEXANDER WANG
JEAN CHARLES DE CASTELBAJAC
KENZO
MARNI
JOHN RICHMOND
JOHN PAUL GAULTIER
ACCESSORIES
While the garments were sporty chic in a subtle way, the athletic inspired influence on the accessories however, were glaringly obvious. Bags were made out of a netted fabric, similar to that of a basketball net. Sneakers of all colours paraded down the catwalks in the world’s top fashion cities. Sandals with the soles of a sneaker were seen in Marni’s show as well. Perhaps one of the most iconic sports accessory was Alexander Wang’s sneaker bags. The designer re-imagined the nike air max shoe and transformed them into bags in his spring/ summer 2015 collection.
COLOR/ FABRIC
Neutral colours were mostly used as the main and base for the outfits this season. They were complimented with pops of colour such as greens and oranges in the details of the looks. Collars in Alexander Wang’s show for instance, were a bright shade of turquoise, while DKNY used orange stripes to give the garment a sportier look.
STREET STYLE
One of the reasons why the sports trend has been around for so long, is due to the comfort aspect that is part of it’s DNA. We are heading towards a time where people are starting to value comfort while not wanting to compromise on great style. With the athletic trend, we are now able to fuse two of our greatest loves together: comfort and fashion. This marriage gives us the best of both worlds, thus, it is predicted to be around for awhile more.
smalldoses
in
Imagine an empty white room. Now bring in only the necessities – only what you need to be alive and happy. Discard the rest and focus on the ones who add value to your life. In small doses would you then be free from the unnecessary and the clutter. Look towards yourself and begin to evaluate. Bring forth the simplicity and calmness. After all, less is indeed more.
“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” (Leonardo da Vinci, 1452). Sleek and simple garments breezed through the shows, evoking a sense of calmness from within. Minimalism goes beyond the stereotypical neutral colour palette that we associate the term with. A minimalist lifestyle helps people determine what truly adds value to their lives, looking at what actually serves a purpose and brings joy. By becoming free from the unnecessary and simplifying life, it can only benefit one’s circumstances. Founders of blog site ‘The Minimalists’ gave a talk at TEDx, emphasizing the value of having a rich life with less stuff. The founders found that by simplifying their life, their stress and discontent levels have significantly decreased. Only by getting rid of the clutter, can one really make room for what is important.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
JACQUEMUS
GABRIELE COLANGELO
CHALAYAN
ICB
WES GORDEN
JILL STUART
MINIMALISM
Understated easy going chic is the anthem for the minimalist trend. Neutral coloured looks in a loose silhouette was favoured this season. Despite the collection being meant to be worn on a summer’s day, all of the minimalist outfits covered most of the body. This means the fabric used should ensure that the garments are breathable and would suit the weather during the few hot months in the middle of the year.
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HERMES
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CHRISTOPHER LEMAIRE
CALVIN KLEIN
JILL STUART
AMANDA WAKELEY
CHALAYAN
1205
CHANEL
HAIDER ACKERMANN
STELLA MCCARTNEY
SLOUCHY
Slouchy shapes were prevalent in this trend, giving the wearer a sense of relaxation. This loose silhouette allows us to be both fashionable and comfortable at the same time. Especially during summer, many would prefer the free flowing garments as opposed to a body conscious outfit that sticks to the body .
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RAG & BONE
AGNES B
BAJA EAST
LOEWE
HERVE LEGER
JILL STUART
PALMER HARDING
ACCESSORIES
A single pendent hanging from a gold or silver chain exudes a sense of simplicity and freshness in a way that gets rid of all the chunky and unnecessary stacks of rings and bracelets. Bags took form in simple geometric shapes in a single colour without any additional embellishments.
COLOR/ FABRIC
Monochromatic shades and browns define the entire monochromatic trend. It is these colors that bring out the sense of freshness and newness in the looks. However, the color that was used the most was indeed, white. Most looks went for a completely white outfit from head to toe. This sense of pureness brings back the feeling of simplicity and the beginning of a new chapter in the new year.
STREET STYLE
Stepping away from bold colours and prints, people are looking more towards the simple life. The minimalist aesthetic will always be the go to look when one is perplexed on what to wear for the day. The biggest reason being that a plain monochromatic garment is the simplest to match with without much hassle or brainstorming. As such, many of these looks were sported on the street during fashion weeks in all the top fashion capitals around the world.
garden eden of
Where trees are abundant and florals abloom, the mystical garden of God comes to life. From Mesopotamian myth to reality, we are at the beginning of a legacy. We come from a desolate land, polluted by the humans. What we have destroyed, we must now replace. The extinct is reborn as we move towards a greater age, bringing us back to the lost land that is the Garden of Eden.
“Nature is not only central to our well-being, but is to be celebrated for its simple, everyday display” declared artist CJ Hurley during his latest exhibition ‘Houses, landscapes, flowers & dreams’. After decades of pollution and harming of the earth, it comes as a surprise how sustainability and eco fashion only came into prominence during the recent years. This renewed interest in protecting the environment translates to a want for a new start from Mother Nature. The blossom of flowers signifies the beginning of a new eco- conscious era for the industry. This season saw a variety of floral prints in colours such as purple and pink. What all the floral outfits had in common though, was their emphasized waist- line. A belted look was the most common, however, the use of peplums were also seen. This emphasis of the waist gives an illusion of slimness – a look that many women strive to achieve, making this silhouette a favourite amongst consumers.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
SIMONE ROCHA
NOON BY NOOR
MICHAEL KORS
ANTONIO BERARDI
MONIQUE LHUILLIER
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
FLORAL
In the Garden of Eden, what would probably stand out the most would be the numerous amounts of flowers blooming, which was exactly what was found in the spring/ summer 2015 runways. Some of the designers that brought this trend to life was Michael Kors, Erdem, Burberry and Alexander Mcqueen. Being a spring/ summer show, florals are to be expected, it is simply how they are designed and done that differs from year to year.
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MICHAEL KORS
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EUDON CHOI
MICHAEL KORS
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON
PREEN BUY THORNTON
ERDEM
BURBERRY PRORSUM
CHANEL
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ANTONIO BERARDI
EMPHASIZED WAIST
What was mostly seen in these flower adorned looks was an emphasized waist. Be it from the use of a waist clinching belt, or through the waist enhancing peplum, the mid section is what designers have focused on this season. Antonio Berardi for instance, used block colors of a light tan and orange with a slight peplum in order to draw the viewer’s attention to the model’s waist. Erdem on the other hand, used a simple black drawstring in order to pull the outfit closer to the waist section, giving the wearer the illusion of a smaller waistline.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
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MARCHESA
DOLCE & GABANNA
TOPSHOP UNIQUE
SIMONE ROCHA
STELLA JEAN
SIMONE ROCHA
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
ACCESSORIES
Accessories saw small floral prints for the bags in a variety of bright and eye catching hues. House of Harlow sent small cross body bags down the runway decorated with tiny red flowers against a bright yellow background. On the other hand, Topshop Unique went for a more abstract representation of florals in their spring/summer 2015 bags. Shoes sported similar floral motifs, but came in the form of 3D embellishments. Dolce and Gabanna and Stella Jean’s models both had on heels featuring these 3D floral adornments on the shoes.
COLOR/ FABRIC
The Garden of Eden is all about the cohesiveness of nature and life – which is aptly symbolized on the runway through the strong use of bright and bold colours. Purples, pinks, yellows and greens were the most dominant hues seen during the fashion month. Each shade could be linked to a specific flower, such as the colour orange being associated with the mini cymbidium orchid.
STREET STYLE
Miranda Priestly from the film ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ once said “Florals? In spring? Ground-breaking”. It’s true, the coming of spring equates to the emergence of floral motifs bursting on the runway, nothing new there. However, year after year, the public still looks forward to and push the presence of flower patterned garments into the spotlight. Perhaps it is ingrained in us – a basic human knowledge- where we must acknowledge the rebirth of these floral beauties.
wanderer’s song
the
Listen to the traveler’s tune and follow along in their pursuit of art in its various forms. The strum of a chord resonates within the room where like-minded wanderers gather. We are the artists, writers, musicians and actors, strayed from the norm and mundane. Art has been through a revolution and has changed our perception of the world. We are in a modern age – an age where art forms will continue to transform and flourish.
Traditionally, the term bohemian was first used to describe the unconventional lifestyles of those who lived via means of musical, artistic or literary pursuits. The Wanderer’s Song looks at the element of a travelling soul and a form of art so close to the essence of bohemians. In the 21st century, we’re seeing how these art forms are so much easier to access to the general public. No longer do we have to take a trip down to the music store to purchase records, but we can sit in the comfort of our bed and purchase it on itunes. Libraries and book stores are currently facing closures due to the rise of ebooks that could be bought online. Why travel to art galleries when we can view the entire exhibition online? The loss of a real world experience and the want to go back to the simpler times is perhaps, what inspired designers to resurrect the bohemian trend, bringing us back to the importance of both travel and the arts together.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
EMILIO PUCCI
MARCHESA
VALENTINO
CHLOE
ANNA SUI
LOUIS VUITTON
PAUL & JOE
BOHEMIAN
The Wanderer’s Song is a blend of travel and the arts, which is translated into looks with both of these elements. Loose fitted garments, ideal when traveling, acts as a base for most of the outfits in this trend. Comfort is especially important in this story as it blends together with the free spirit of bohemianism. The aspect of art comes into place with the different prints and details in the tops and dresses.
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SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
CHLOE
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BLUGIRL
CHLOE EUDON CHOI
ERDEM
ANNA SUI
BURBERRY PRORSUM
MATTHEW MARCHESA WILLIAMSON
GIAMBA
MICHAEL KORS
EMILIO PUCCI
PREEN BUY THORNTON
PAUL & JOE CHANEL
LOUIS VUITTON
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
VALENTINO
ANTONIO BERARDI
WIDE SLEEVES
In addition to the loose fitting outfits, wide sleeves is the major shape for the bohemian trend. These sleeves allows for ease of movement and comfort. It also represents the sense of freedom to earthiness that bohemians are stereotypically associated with. Chloe and Emilio Pucci both featured their own design of the peasant top, with similar wide sleeves that flares out against the arm. Anna Sui and Marchesa on the other hand, still followed the loose and flowy silhouette, but showcased their versions in the forms of maxi dresses.
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Trend Report
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CHANEL
ETRO
PAUL SMITH
ANNA SUI
EMILIO PUCCI
ETRO
VALENTINO
ACCESSORIES
Fringe is a big aspect seen on the accessories, but not so much on the garments itself. Fringing could be seen on boots, bags and collars alike. Stacked jewellery such as bangles are also a common sight to be seen that is linked to the bohemian style. A well known bohemian style is the presence of an abundant of accessories on their fingers, wrists and necks. This has become a popular look associated with the boho- chic asthetic as many feel that they would be able to express their style better with the overlayering of jewellery.
COLOR/ FABRIC
Jewel toned fabrics make up the majority of the looks, with the simple monochromatic white and black following close behind. Looking at these key colours, we can see a strong correlation to the pantones and gemstones. From the Emerald green to the yellow topaz, we are coming full circle back to the origins of earth.
STREET STYLE
On the streets, there are maxi dresses and tribal prints galore. The colour palate is once again, filled with jewel and earth tones from the garments to the shoes and accessories. Fringed bags and skirts are a common sight, with a general nod to the comfortably loose silhouettes we have seen on the runway. It is people’s and fashion’s way to feel more ‘natural’ in a style that could only be described as boho chic.
lady’s reign
the
For too long she has been trapped and confined in society’s expectations. She had to choose between being ladylike and having power. Sweet and dainty or being treated seriously. She always wondered why she couldn’t have the best of both worlds. We have now entered an era where everyone has graduated with a new level of understanding. She now knows what she is, who she is. And most importantly, who she can be.
When we think ‘pastel’, we associate the colour with sweet, ladylike and dainty dresses. When we think ‘power’, we imagine sharp dark suits with a serious disposition. Rarely do we see the two terms come together in one sentence. Why are male suits always thought of as powerful and dominant? Can we not merge femininity with authority and yet hold the same amount of control? The Lady’s Reign refers to the ability to be the boss and a leader while still embracing our feminine side. Feminist: being treated equally as the men are. This year, we see a renewed emphasis on what it really means to be a feminist. It is not about putting males down or seeing females as the ‘better gender’. We are looking towards complete equality and respect for both sexes. The recent campaign by the United Nations is an exemplary example about the movement towards equality. ‘He for She’ is a solidarity movement for gender equality that brings together one half of humanity in support of the other half of humanity, for the benefit of all.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
NOON BY NOOR
VALENTIN YUDASHKIN
SHIATZY CHEN
CHRISTIAN DIOR
JOSIE NATORI
TRUSSARDI
ICB
PASTEL
The whole idea behind ‘The Lady’s Reign’ is that we have the freedom and choice to be powerful and feminine at the same time. Our schema processes pastels under the umbrella of ‘sweet’ and ‘dainty’, but is there a way we can rewire the brain to include the archetype of authority as well? The key looks for this trend includes a very tailored silhouette, something that you might wear to work, and infuses a dose of pastel pinks, blues and yellows in.
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ICB
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VALENTIN YUDASHKIN
UNDERCOVER
NOON BY NOOR
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
ICB
TEMPERLEY LONDON
GIOGIO ARMANI
AGNES B
KENZO
TAILORED
To reflect a sense of authority, designers mainly used a tailored silhouette in the form of a ladies’ power suit. In that way, even when paired with pastels, the wearer would still be work appropriate and ready to take the office by storm. Giorgio Armani, Kenzo and Agnes B are just some of the brands that saw a way to merge the two seemingly opposites together.
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SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
MICHAEL VAN DER HAM
HUNTER ORIGINAL
BCBG MAX AZRIA
BURBERRY PRORSUM
OSCAR DE LE RENTA
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
BORA AKSU
ACCESSORIES
To contrast with the seriousness of the key silhouette in this trend, we see an abundance of quirky and fun accessories on the runway. Chunky necklaces with big and bright pastel pink roses, scalloped clutch bags and blue chiffon belts are just a sampling of what the spring/ summer 2015 fashion weeks presented us with.
COLOR/ FABRIC
The concept of ‘The Lady’s Reign’ focuses strongly on the colour used in garments. As such, pastels that denote a sense of stereotypical femininity and sweetness is heavily used. Powder pinks, baby blues and minty greens are some of the more popular colours for this trend. While still present, pale yellows and lavenders were not as prominent.
STREET STYLE
On the streets, we can see an even divide between work appropriate and casual clothes in bright pastel hues. Full skirts in a powder pink or lavender colours are a popular silhouette and colour combination seen on everyday people. Work attire such as blazers, shirts and pencil skirts have also been spotted in a baby blue shade. Generally, pastel bags were the most common amongst the fashionable people on the streets.
ofdivergence
night
There are two sides to every story. Two sides to every coin. There’s up and there’s down. There is light and there is dark. The essence of opposites blends together in a perfect and harmonious matrimony. Without one, you cannot have the other. These are the symbiotic relationships of nature, a pack of mutual benefit and dependence.
What is divergence? It refers to a difference, be it between objects or subjects. However, even with this divergence between two things, more often than not, they are dependent on each other in order to exist. The imbalance stemmed from the opposites’ relationship with one another could directly relate to the chaotic lives we attempt to balance out everyday. We are in a time where we believe that we can do and accomplish everything. Relationships, careers and health, we want to have it all. However, is it possible to have a balanced lifestyle and achieve everything in this golden triangle of life? “To accomplish truly great things, you need to seek an imbalanced life�. According to a recent article, no, we as humans are physically not able to achieve great things in every category without sacrificing something in return. To have a balanced lifestyle simply means that you probably have not accomplished anything remarkable. Stop trying to gain this elusive mythological healthy balanced life and start to embrace the reality of imbalance.
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
LACOSTE
MAXIME SIMOENS
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
ALEXIS MABILLE
IN BALANCE The main idea in ‘Night of Divergence’ is how opposites can come together to make something cohesive and wonderful. For the key looks, we look towards brands and designers who have achieved this task. Something that we saw immediately this season was the asymmetry in an outfit. Hemlines for instance; instead of a straight cut, we have a huge imbalance, one side being higher than the other. From skirts to tops, this has been a key look on the runway.
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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
SACAI
MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
ANTHONY VACCARELLO
VIKTOR & ROLF
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
VETEMENTS
AGNES B
ALEXIS MABILLE
ASSYMETRIC High and low. Up and down. That is the general gist of the silhouette and shape for this trend. Asymmetry refers to a lack of equality or equivalence between parts or aspects of something. Shoulder and hemlines are the focus for this imbalanced silhouette. Skirts and tops alike has a strong asymmetrical silhouette that characterizes the concept to a T. The incorporation of both high and low hemlines in one garment shows exactly how opposites come together and blend in order to create a work of art.
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SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
Trend Report
SPRING/ SUMMER 2015
LOEWE
MARNI
MIASON MARTIN MARGIELA
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
FENDI
ANDREW GN
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
MOSCHINO
ACCESSORIES
We see a much more subtle form of asymmetry. The necklace collar by Andrew Gn for example, personifies the whole idea of yin and yang perfectly with half of it coloured in white, and the other, black. Bringing together both of these opposite colours shows how cohesive and aesthetically pleasing asymmetrical colours are. Marni, on the other hand, designed shoes with wheels as heels. The back circular heel is considerably bigger than the one next to it. Once again, this brand shows how the design really came together with the incorporation of both of the circular heels on the shoe.
COLOR/ FABRIC
Keeping with the idea of yin and yang, the colour board for this trend very well reflects that. With mostly monochromatic hues and a touch of navy blue, we can see how the colours correlate and compliment each other. Most of the asymmetric outfits this season went mostly black, white and grey, making the viewer focus more on the design and cut of the garment rather than the colour.
STREET STYLE
Much like on the runway, we do see a lot of asymmetry in hemlines on the streets as well. However, the difference of length between the high and low of the hemline does differ greatly. While some people prefer a more subtle touch, with only an inch or two of difference, others went all the way with a knee length high and a floor length low. A rather noticeable style trend that we have noticed as well is the draping of the coat on only one shoulder, giving a new imbalanced feel that kicks the look up an extra notch.
WORKS CITED Blakeman, Chuck. “Balance doesn’t work. You really can’t have it all.” Inc. Mansueto Ventures, 16th September 2014. Web. 4 November 2014. Eastman, Janet. “Japanese- inspired art exhibition extended at Frank Lloyd Wright – designed Gordon House.” Oregon Live. Advance Digital, 9 October 2014. Web. 28 October 2014. He For She. UN Women, 2014. Web. 28 October 2014. Pinterest. N.p. D.d. Web. 20 October 2014. Ryan Nicodemus and Joshua Fields Millburn. “A rich life with less stuff.” Online video clip. Tedx Talks. 22nd April 2014. Web. 28 October 2014.
STORIES
WGSN. N.p. N.d. Web. 20 October 2014.
THE POWER OF WILL IN SMALL DOSES GARDEN OF EDEN DONE BY: CLARA SIM, JENNY CHU, JOJO LIN THE WANDERER’S SONG THE LADY’S REIGN APPROVED BY: PROFESSOR CHRISTINA KOUNTIOU NIGHT OF DIVERGENCE
FASH 419: CURRENT TRENDS AND FORECASTING
SPRING/ SUMMER 2O15
FA S H I O N TREND REPORT THE EDITOR- APPROVED GUIDE: SIX CONCEPT STORIES WITH THE KEY LOOKS, HOTTEST ACCESSORIES AND INSTANT STREET STYLE.