The North-West Passage The Arctic is the Earth’s vast, icy, northernmost region. It has been home to Inuit and other indigenous peoples for thousands of years. Europeans have long been fascinated with the Arctic. For centuries, explorers searched it for the North-West Passage, a sea route that was thought to link the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans across North America. Many risked their lives seeking a way through frozen straits and shifting ice. This exhibition examines why finding the North-West Passage became so important to the British in the 19th century. It also shows why the eyes of the world are again turning to the region today. Below: ‘Perilous position of HMS Terror, Captain Back, in the Arctic Regions in the Summer of 1837’, by Admiral William Smyth National Maritime Museum: BHC3655
Routes And Resources Economic forces have always driven European interest in the Arctic. The earliest searches for the North-West Passage aimed at finding a fast trade route to the riches of the Far East. John Cabot and his son Sebastian were the first to pursue this goal, sailing from Bristol in 1497. Expeditions of the 16th and 17th centuries found that the Arctic held its own riches; furs from Hudson Bay, and whale products from the Davis Strait. In Britain, industries and commercial interests developed around these resources, and pursuit of the North-West Passage as a viable trade route diminished.
through the Bering Strait.
from the Pacific Ocean. He surveys the Alaskan coast
James Cook sails in search of the North-West Passage
1776
discovery of the North-West Passage.
British parliament offers a £20,000 prize for the
1775
Hudson Bay area.
Charter giving it a monopoly on all trade in the
The Hudson’s Bay Company is established by Royal
1670
mutiny and set him adrift. Hudson is never seen again.
Henry Hudson tries to find the Passage but his crew
1610–11
Passage, surveying the south coast of Baffin Island.
Martin Frobisher makes three voyages in search of the
1576–78
by King Henry VII to find the North-West Passage.
1497
Explorer John Cabot and his son Sebastian are appointed
Mid-18th-century European colonial rivalries revived interest in the legendary Passage. In 1775, Parliament offered a £20,000 reward for its discovery, and the following year Captain James Cook sailed in search of it from the Pacific side.
Exploring The Arctic Science and national pride lay behind the revival of attempts to find the North-West Passage in the 19th century. The Royal Navy was left under-employed after the end of the Napoleonic War in 1815, and it led the way. John Ross commanded the first new naval search in 1818, which was followed by other expeditions through the 1820s and 1830s. Although none succeeded in discovering the Passage, they greatly contributed to knowledge of the area. The explorers drew on Inuit expertise and found it invaluable for navigating the Arctic landscape.
in ice, which strands the crew for four years.
by his nephew James Clark Ross. He becomes trapped
John Ross makes a second Arctic voyage, accompanied
1829–33
starvation or exposure.
America. Eleven men under his command die of
expeditions to explore the north coast of North
John Franklin makes the first of two overland
1819–22
from progressing west.
Hudson Strait. Ice and scurvy prevent the expedition
A second voyage under Parry takes a route through
1821–23
Passage yet accomplished.
Sound and reaches the furthest west through the
William Parry confirms a route through Lancaster
1819–20
blocking his path west.
Sound he mistakenly observes the ‘Croker Mountains’
attempt to find the North-West Passage. In Lancaster
1818
The Admiralty appoints John Ross to command an
In the 1850s, British explorers finally realized that the Passage comprised several possible routes. In 1903–06, the Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen won fame as the first to sail through it, in his small herring boat, Gjøa.
A Matter of Life and Death Nineteenth-century British explorers used the most advanced technology available to help them in the Arctic. Ships’ hulls were specially reinforced against ice, and innovations such as canned food sustained crews through harsh winters. Sir John Franklin’s North-West Passage expedition of 1845 was the largest and best-ever equipped. His ships Erebus and Terror were sturdy, with internal heating systems to combat cold. None the less, the expedition ended catastrophically after it was last seen by a British whaler in July 1845. For the next eleven years, with Inuit help, numerous search parties looked for clues of Franklin’s fate.
expedition to look for further evidence of Franklin’s fate.
US Army Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka leads an overland
1878–80
recording Franklin’s death.
on King William Island as well as a memorandum
Leopold McClintock finds artefacts and human remains
1859
expedition.
Rae finds the first evidence of the fate of the Franklin
During a survey of the north coast of America, John
1853–54
Arctic to search for Sir John Franklin
Sir James Clark Ross leads a voyage to the Canadian
1852
McClure confirms the existence of the North-West Passage.
Strait while Horatio Austin tries from the east.
seen for the last time by whalers in Baffin Bay.
to explore the North-West Passage. Franklin’s ships are
Robert McClure searches for Franklin by way of the Bering
1850–51
1845
John Franklin is appointed to lead a Royal Navy expedition
It was finally proved that all 129 of the party had died. Stuck fast in the ice, the ships were abandoned, and the men had tried to escape southward on foot. Apart from the cold, it is now thought that they perished from a combination of scurvy, hunger and possibly lead poisoning.
The North Today The Arctic is once more in the public eye. Scientific evidence has shown that global warming is one factor causing sea ice to melt. In summer 2007, the North-West Passage was completely free of ice for the first time since records began. It may soon be fully navigable for large ships, but increased Arctic traffic could have extensive environmental consequences. Diminishing ice cover has further implications, since up to 25% of the Earth’s remaining oil and gas could lie under the Arctic Ocean. As sea ice melts, these reserves may become accessible, raising issues of sovereignty and ownership, not least for the Inuit.
entire year.
Arctic Ocean could be completely ice-free for the
If global warming continues, it is predicted that the
2030
Franklin’s ships Erebus and Terror.
latest Arctic expedition to search for the remains of
Canadian archaeologist Robert Grenier launches the
2008
for ships between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.
free of ice for the first time, making it a possible route
Scientists report that the North-West Passage is totally
2007
the North-West Passage.
St Roch II re-traces Henry Larsen’s route through
2000
He repeats the feat in the opposite direction in 1944.
the entire North-West Passage from west to east.
navigates the entire North-West Passage.
Henry Larsen becomes the first person to traverse
1940–42
1903–06
Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen successfully
Continuing scientific exploration of the Arctic, incorporating Inuit testimony, is also showing alarming results. As early as 2030, the Arctic Ocean could be completely ice-free, threatening Arctic landscape, wildlife and the future of the region’s indigenous population.
Roald Amundsen’s route, 1903–06
Henry Larsen’s route, 1944
A
Melville Island
e
Somerset Island
b
Cornwallis Island
f
Boothia Peninsula
c
Devon Island
g
King William Island
d
Prince of Wales Island
. *
North Magnetic Pole in 1831 North Magnetic Pole in 2005
Events
Adult Events
Study Days Thursday 12 November, 10.30 –13.00 Saturday 28 November, 11.00 – 16.30 Join speakers, including explorer Jim McNeill and Museum curators, for a study day looking at various aspects of Arctic exploration and the North-West Passage. £40/£30 | £20/£15
Meet the Experts
Free Activities for Families
Thursdays 2 and 18 June, 4 and 13 August, 6 and 20 Oct: 11.00
26-30 October (School holidays) Respond creatively to the exhibition, through a range of exciting workshops, actor performances and interactive talks. Free
Join the exhibition curators for a guided tour of The North-West Passage: an Arctic Obsession BSL Interpretation Free
Archive Journey Thursdays 13 and 22 July: 15.00 / 30 July: 11.00 / 16 and 28 September: 15.00 Join our Library team as they delve into the world of Arctic explorers and read about the adventures and perils of their journeys through the letters they sent home. BSL Interpretation Free Limited numbers; please book
Summer Lecture Series Thursdays 4 June – 2 July: 11.00-13.00 A series of five weekly lectures by researchers, curators and scholars including: Bob Headland of the Scott Polar Research Institute, Dr Ann Shirley (Ann Savours), Jeremy Mitchell of the NMM, Professor Glyn Williams of Queen Mary, University of London and Professor Andrew Lambert of King’s College, London. £40/£32
Autumn Lecture Series Thursdays 3–17 September: 11.00-13.00 Three lectures by researchers, curators and scholars including Gillian Hutchinson curator, History of Cartography at the NMM and Professor Timothy Fulford of Nottingham Trent University £20/£16
Ice Worlds From Saturday 16 May* Peter Harrison Planetarium, Royal Observatory, Greenwich Take a tour of the frozen moons and planets of the solar system, including the Earth’s own polar ice caps, in this new planetarium show £6/£4/£16 (family ticket) *For showing times please pick up a leaflet or ask at the information desk
Film Screenings From Tuesday 22 September, doors open at 18.30 and films start at 19.00 Canada House, Trafalgar Square To coincide with the exhibtion, Canada House will be screening a variety of Arctic-themed films, including Atanarjuat, the Fast Runner by Inuk filmmaker Zacharias Kunuk and John Walker’s 2008-documentary Passage. Tickets available from 24 August only by booking through the National Maritime Museum on 020 8312 8560. Free For further details please pick up a leaflet at the information desk or vist nmm.ac.uk
Floor Plan
Exit
The North Today A Matter of Life and Death
Exploring the Arctic Routes and Reasources Introduction Entrance
cover image composed using photographs reproduced by kind permission of Catilin Arctic survey