Sailor Chic Exhibition Guide by Jonathon Hopkins

EXHIBITION GUIDE

Britain is a maritime nation, and naval and nautical styles have long played an important part in British identity. The image of the sailor has been used to suggest obedience, order, bravery and loyalty, but also a freedom of spirit, independence and rebellion. For these reasons nautical style has been adopted, imitated and reinvented by various groups including patriots, dissidents, the young and the fashion-conscious. The popularity of ‘sailor-style’, derived from garments worn at sea, can be traced back to the royal family in the mid-19th century, who inspired a trend that soon permeated the British male and female wardrobe and was imitated elsewhere. Over the next 150 years its influence continued to re-emerge in art and advertising, on stage and cinema screen, the catwalk and the high street, and can still be seen in clothing stores and high-end fashion collections today.

AFFLUENCE PATRIOTISM

In 1846 Queen Victoria commissioned a sailor-suit for her son, Albert Edward, the four-year-old Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). It was based on the uniform worn by sailors on the Royal Yacht. The little princeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s costume quickly became a fashionable staple for children of affluent families across Britain, mainland Europe and America. As naval-pattern sailor dress (for boys and girls) became an international style, elements of it also soon appeared in adult civilian clothing. Nautical styles were particularly appropriate for seaside leisure activities such as bathing and sailing. This cross-over between contemporary fashion and naval uniform also served a patriotic role: in Britain it evoked pride in the Royal Navy, continued to express solidarity with it through the two World Wars and was a measure of its high status in British society.

CHILD’S SAILOR UNIFORM, 1846 white cotton-duck with blue-jean collar and cuffs, and metal buttons

This outfit, commissioned by Queen Victoria for her son, Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, launched the fashion for children’s sailor-suits. The Queen recorded the first time he wore it in her diary: Bertie put on his sailor’s dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the officers and sailors who were all assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed delighted. This entry was included in Leaves from the Journal of Our Life in the Highlands (1868), a popular published version of Victoria’s diary which had a section about life on board the Royal Yacht.

WOMAN’S BATHING COSTUME, ABOUT 1900 wool

By the end of the 19th century the health benefits of trips to the seaside were widely accepted. Families escaped industrialized cities to take holidays on the coast. Suitable clothing for seaside activities – swimming, yachting and promenading – naturally drew upon nautical styles. This woman’s bathing costume shows a number of recognizable motifs, including the square sailor collar and the familiar use of navy blue with white trim. Made of wool, this would have been an impractical and heavy garment when wet.

SAILOR-STYLE HAT, ABOUT 1945 black wool felt and applied silk ribbon

This hat belonged to the celebrated British ballerina Dame Margot Fonteyn (1919–91) and was made during the Second World War or soon after. Its style draws directly on the British sailor’s cap. It illustrates the close relationship that existed between fashion and uniform at this time, and the patriotic associations embodied by an almost literal interpretation of sailor’s dress.

ÂŠ Fashion Museum, Bath & North East Somerset Council

INFLUENCES

INSPIRATION

Fashion draws on many sources. Film, theatre, advertising and music are key inspirations in both forming and reflecting contemporary trends in clothing and behaviour. The importance of visual and metaphorical ‘image’ to these media industries has inextricably bound them to trends in dress, perhaps most enduringly in the dialogue between fashion and popular music. In the visual arts, nautical themes have consistently reappeared since the early 19th century, when the theatre (including opera and ballet) began to exploit and reinterpret them – innovatively, humorously and often extravagantly. A century later film also began to popularize the look, with Hollywood dressing influential stars of the 1930s and ‘40s in patriotic and glamorous nautical styles. Some films, such as successful musicals, had a notable influence. They brought the image of the sailor to the fore and exploited post-war affection for the American navy.

PRINT OF A NAUTICAL BALLET COSTUME, 1887 Alf Cooke coloured lithograph The Navy permeated all elements of Victorian visual arts. Ballet, music-hall and theatre looked to the sea for themes and inspiration, often being used to promote or sanction the Royal Navy’s part in building and defending the Empire. This ballet costume was made for the Army and Navy ballet at London’s Alhambra Theatre (on the site of the Odeon, Leicester Square). This specialized in ‘beautiful ballets’ and was a notorious meeting place for prostitutes and their clients. The use of nautical motifs and naval uniform has been fused with patriotic symbolism to create saucy but practical dance wear.

SUBVERSION REBELLION

Throughout the second half of the 20th century different social groups have used nautical styles to define their identities. In particular, elements of historical naval uniform have been borrowed, subverted and fused with other influences to create distinctive street-fashions. These have mainly been associated with musical and youth movements reacting against the social and political ‘establishment’. Young, cutting-edge designers have connected with these movements, drawing influences from emerging looks but also inspiring them. In the early 1980s, for instance, Vivienne Westwood used naval styles and patterns to create her seminal ‘Pirate’ collection. This picked up on the emerging ‘New Romantic’ musical movement, which sought to evoke a golden age of romance, rebellion and heroism.

‘PIRATE’ OUTFIT, 1980 Vivienne Westwood cotton jacket, shirt, trousers and sash, cotton and rayon waistcoat, felt hat and suede boots For her inaugural catwalk collection in spring 1981, self-trained British designer Vivienne Westwood chose the theme of ‘pirates’. Encouraged by her partner Malcolm McClaren to ‘do something romantic’, Westwood created a look with strong references to naval styling of the 17th to 19th centuries. The ‘Pirate’ collection was sold through Westwood and McLaren’s shop ‘World’s End’ on the King’s Road, Chelsea, where the interior was fashioned to resemble a galleon. It helped define the look associated with the emerging ‘New Romantic’ movement. This consciously rejected the rawness of 1970s punk, ironically a movement defined by McClaren and Westwood. Westwood revisited the pirate look in her ‘Blue Sky’ collection for spring/summer 2004.

ÂŠ V & A Images/ Victoria and Albert Museum, London

OUTFIT WORN BY ADAM ANT, 1982 Adam Ant wool jacket with brass buttons, cotton shirt and neck-tie and leather trousers Adam Ant was the lead singer of the post-punk pop group Adam and the Ants, which came to prominence in the late 1970s. The group disbanded in 1982 and Adam embarked on a successful solo career. His use of historical military and naval uniform – glamorous frock-coats and blousy shirts, coupled with flamboyant make-up and jewellery – helped define the New Romantic look of the early 1980s. This outfit was designed and worn by Adam Ant in the video for his debut solo single ‘Goody Two Shoes’ which reached number one in the UK in June 1982. It was inspired by the costume worn by Terence Stamp in the1962 film Billy Budd, in which Stamp plays a young seaman in the Georgian Royal Navy.

ÂŠ V & A Images/ Victoria and Albert Museum, London

GENDER SEXUALITY

In the 1920s naval garments traditionally associated with men were expressly introduced into women’s fashion. Designers such as Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, and later Yves Saint-Laurent, sought to empower women by replicating the stylish, relaxed look of some nautical wear in their collections. The gender-blurring possibilities of nautical style have been most visible in music. ‘Glam Rock’ of the 1970s, for instance, promoted sexual ambiguity by embracing its potentially androgynous charm and flamboyance. This fed into the positioning of the sailor as a modern gay icon; on the one hand burly and masculine but, on the other, subversive of the Navy’s traditional, male-dominated image. Unsurprisingly, the erotic subtext of ‘sailor style’ has been further embraced by fashion, perhaps most significantly by French designer Jean-Paul Gaultier in the 1990s.

‘MR FREEDOM’ SAILOR SUIT, 1974 Tommy Roberts nylon satin

Tommy Roberts opened the original ‘Mr Freedom’ shop in 1969 at 430 King’s Road, Chelsea. The area became a Mecca for the fashionable London set, who brought their clothing from off-beat boutiques to create looks which ran counter to the mainstream. The King’s Road had a significant impact on the development of ‘hippy’ ‘punk’ and ‘New Romantic’ styles in Britain. This man’s sailor suit, made at the tail-end of the King’s Road’s popularity, typifies the look associated with the ‘glam rock’ movement of the early 1970s. Glam rock, led by musicians such as David Bowie and Marc Bolan of T-Rex, sought out glamorous and playful styles using luxurious fabrics such as faux fur, velvet and satin. These were often worn with cosmetics to create an androgynous, even effeminate, look.

ÂŠ V & A Images/ Victoria and Albert Museum, London

RUSSIAN NAVY VEST AND BELL-BOTTOM TROUSERS, 1940S trousers by F.W. Harmer & Co. cotton vest and serge trousers The striped sweater and flared ‘bell-bottom’ trousers are two of the most enduring nautical garments. Full-legged trousers had been worn by sailors in the British navy since at least the 18th century: the blueand-white striped sweater has its origins among 18th-century Breton fishermen. This look was popularized in the 1920s by the French designer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel (1883–1971) who could be seen dressed in her boyish striped sweater and ‘yachting pants’ on the bohemian French Riviera. Her relationship with keen sailor Hugh Grosvenor, Duke of Westminster, further influenced her adoption of nautical garments, such as blazers and caps, which were designed to give women confidence and freedom.

CATWALK HIGH STREET

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Blue-and-whiteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; nautical style continues to be an enduring presence on both the catwalk and high street. With crisp tailoring, the freshness of the colour combination is consistently deemed suitable for spring and summer collections, especially for women. It is also a style that is continuously re-invented. Various designers have translated what was practical, serviceable working clothing into garments that are either playfully informal or luxurious haute couture. While nautical styles have never been absent from fashion for long, their cultural points of reference are continually changing. From an expression of patriotism, through the subversion of gender and identity, to a basic summer wardrobe staple, the nautical look continues to have enduring appeal.

SAILOR-STYLE OUTFIT, 2006 Antonio Marras for

kenzo

synthetic jacket, trousers and top, with cotton hat and silk scarf Antonio Marras took over as Artistic Director of kenzo womenswear in 2003. He lives and works overlooking the sea on the island of Sardinia. Inspired by his surroundings, he chose a strong nautical theme for the entire 2006 kenzo spring/ summer collection. Striped jerseys and blazers featured alongside elegant patterned dresses that evoked the ambience of a summer cruise. This outfit draws its inspiration from French naval uniform, combined with some of fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most enduring nautical motifs. The distinctive pom-pom cap recalls those worn by French sailors as do the wide-legged trousers, which have stylized anchor buttons.â&#x20AC;Ż

ADULT EVENTS Sailor Chic Curator Tours Wednesdays 22 August, 19 September, 17 October, 14 November 14.00 Join exhibition co-curator Amy Miller for a guided tour of Sailor Chic. Free with exhibition ticket

Anchored in History Wednesday 10 October 14.00 – 16.00 Go behind the scenes and explore the Museum’s 18thcentury costume and uniform collection, with Curator Amy Miller and Head of Textile Conservation Nicola Yates. £15/£11: booking essential as spaces limited

Drawing for the kenzo spring/summer 2006 collection, by Antonio Marras © Archives KENZO

BSL -Interpreted Sailor Chic Curator Tours

From Cabin Boy to Catwalk Queen

Fridays 19 October, 16 November 14.00 / 15.15 / 16.15

Saturday 3 November 11.00 – 16.30

Join exhibition co-curator Kris Martin for a BSL - interpreted tour of Sailor Chic. Free with exhibition ticket: booking essential as spaces limited

Stitch ‘n Bitch Sunday 28 October 14.00 – 17.00

This symposium examines the enduring influence of nautical design on fashion. From pirates and pop music to sailors and sexuality, the day seeks to explore how fashion mythologies are constructed and disseminated. £15/£10

Learn how to knit or put your knitting skills to good use at this relaxed and friendly knitting afternoon in the Museum.

Rocking the Boat: The Imbalance of the Sailor Image

Free

Join Fashion History and Theory students from Central St Martin’s for a guided tour of Sailor Chic.

Function to Fashion: Why We Copy Sailors’ Dress Sunday 11 November 14.00 Join Fashion History and Theory students from Central St Martin’s for a guided tour of Sailor Chic. Free with exhibition ticket

Sunday 25 November 14.00

Free with exhibition ticket

Bookings: 020 8312 8560

FAMILY EVENTS Absolutely fabulous

Sailor Chic journey box

Sundays in September 11.00 | 12.30 | 14.00 | 15.30 Workshop | Mess Deck

Sunday 30 September 14.30 | 15.30 Workshop | E-library

Be inspired by sailors’ uniforms through the ages, then design and make your own outfit. Show off your creation at the end of the workshop in our fashion show on the Upper Deck.

Look at archive material from our collection and explore the stories hidden within to find out about changing fashions in sailors’ uniforms.

Free: suitable for all ages

‘Strike a pose, there’s nothing to it’ Sunday 30 September 11.00 | 13.00 | 15.00 Workshop | Propeller Calling all little fashion darlings! Make giant hats, buttons and epaulettes inspired by sailor uniforms to wear as you parade on the Upper Deck. Get ready to strike a pose when the music stops. Free: suitable for ages 5+

Free: suitable for ages 5+

Little explorers’ adventure Tuesdays in September 13.15 – 14.00 | 14.15 – 15.00 Workshop | NMM Exciting activities for little ones to explore the world of fashion design. Free: suitable for ages 5+ Collect your free ticket from the admissions desk. Please bring a change of clothes as some sessions involve messy activities.

With thanks to:

Sketch for Yves Saint-Laurent’s spring/summer collection, 1966, by Yves Saint Laurent