English Journal: Travels in England, 2007, Vol. 2

THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH

O

ne of the oldest parts of Oxford Is a piece of property which sits to the south of Christ Church, and is known as the “Meadows.� This large expanse has been used since Anglo-Saxon times for the townspeople to graze their cattle.

Now, however, it is controlled by Christ Church. When one is that the Meadows it is hard to imagine that it sits smack dab in the middle of Oxford, because very few buildings can be seen. There is a walk which originates at the Meadows Building of Christ Church which extends through the meadow all the way to the river. This walkway has been used for hundreds of years by students, faculty, and townspeople alike. Even in the middle of summer during the tourist season, very few people can be found in this area.

The Meadows

THE MEADOWS AT CHRIST CHURCH

OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH

On the right is an old lithograph of the “Ancient Library” , which was actually the old dining hall for the monks at the Priory.

Above is photo of same wall showing the same hutch for the reader and the conversion of the Refectory to rooms for students The conversion was done in 1772.

D

uring my time at Christ Church I lived in the “Old Library.” It is located on the southeast corner of the college and overlooks the Meadows Building.

It is called the old library for good reason: It is the old library. But more than that, it was a part of the original priory which existed on this site prior to its conversion The Old Library

OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH

to a college by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525. It was originally the dining hall for the monks and the members of the community. Since the first building completed at Christ Church was the hall, the old monks dining hall became the first library of Christ Church. It served as a library from the mid1500s until the completion of the new library in about 1690. Since that time, it has served as a classroom, and anatomy lecture hall, and in 1772 was converted into rooms for students, principally from the Westminster School in London. But vestiges of the

OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH

old library remain. On the top floor is the original ceiling from the library, which was hand-painted with the coat of arms of the University, the College, and various benefactors.

There is also a small , rather secret room in the Old Library which contains a private library belonging to the fellows of the college and which was strictly off-limits to everyone else. One can only imagine its contents. My bet: Gambling Books over the past 500 years.

Also probably some pretty rare books and documents. Then again, it could be their massive porn collection.

OLD LIBRARY AT CHRIST CHURCH

The view from my room, Christ Church

ANCIENT AND MODERN STONEWORK

All over Oxford are gargoyles and grotesques.

Some are quite old, others quite new One even shows a man eating magic mushrooms! I would wager this is one of the newer ones.

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

T

he New College is the ancestor of all colleges designed after it was founded in 1379 by a bishop of Winchester named William of Wychem. He intended for it to be a destination for scholars educated at his grammar school near the cathedral in Winchester. It led the way and set the pace for the development of colleges in both Oxford and in Cambridge, and by extension, most American colleges. First, it was built beginning t o end in one continuous action, accepting its first students in 1384. Second, it was the first purpose built college quadrangle in all of The New College

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

First Collegiate Gatehouse

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

architecture, and has been imitated more times than W.C. Fields. The main quadrangle contained the old warden’s lodgings, student lodgings, faculty lodgings, a magnificent Chapel and a beautifully appointed Hall. On the top floor of the east range is the original library, which is now a Senior Common Room. Contained within the staircase leading to hall is the college archives and, at one time, the college treasury. It has a beautiful garden at the rear of its property, which has segments of the old town wall which probably dates from about the 10th century.

Hugh Grant is a graduate of New College, and yet despite this it remains one of the elite colleges of Oxford. My history professor at Wabash, James Barnes, was a Rhodes Scholar her in the mid 1900s.

New College Quadrangle

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

New College Hall

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

New College Chapel

THE NEW COLLEGE, founded in 1379

The Medieval Town Wall

SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE

I

n the heart of Oxford is the Schools Quadrangle. While its anchor tenant is the ancient Bodleian Library, the quadrangle its self housed the ancient classrooms, each one dedicated to a particular “liberal art.� Above each door is the name of the school, in latin. Now these rooms house special exhibitions and the University Gift Shop.

The Schools Quadrangle

SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE

The Schools Quadrangle

SCHOOLS QUADRANGLE

Opposite: The doors to the various schools in the Schools Quadrangle.

This page: The Schools Gatehouse from the lantern of the Sheldonian Theater.

Detail over the main window to the oldest section of the Bodleian Library

The Schools Quadrangle

Views of the Schools Quadrangle

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

T

he principal roadway which bisects the town of Oxford is called simply “the High.� It basically starts at the old Anglo-Saxon tower on the west side of town, and ends at the Magdalen Bridge on the east side of town. It passes several storefronts, as well as Brasenose College, the University Church, All Souls College, University College, Queens College, and Magdalen College.

Also one will find the Examination Schools near the West End. Several side streets of some import bisect the High. That would include King Edward Street, Oriel Street, Logic Lane, Turl Street, Catte Street, Queens College Lane and Merton Street. Also these tributaries spur into several alleyways, many of which contain small public houses, also known as Pubs.

The Turl Street Tributary off The High

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

College Portals on The High

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

The Turl Street Tributary off The High

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

The Turl Street Tributary off The High

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

The King Edward Street Tributary off The High

JESUS COLLEGE

lege. He was also a member of its boat crew, as I remember his oar was displayed in the alumni office during my years as a student.

Jesus College today looks Gothic, however when it was founded it was built along classical lines. In the 19th century steps were taken to make it look older and several Gothic features were added. There are two principal quadrangles, the oldest being on the east side of the grounds and the newer being on the west side of the grounds. Both quadrangles are connected in the middle to a hall which is also built along classical lines. Hanging in the Hall is a painting Gothic Renovations

JESUS COLLEGE

of the College’s benefactor Queen Elizabeth the first, and a painting of a former student named Lawrence, who is also known as Lawrence of Arabia. There is also a statue in the entryway of the Chapel commemorating Sir Laurence.

I took several pictures in the Chapel and the front quadrangle. I also photographed the front door of the Masters Lodgings.

Lawrence of Arabia

THE HIGH, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES

T

url Street runs north and south along the western boundary of the ancient university. It is about three blocks long, and contains Lincoln College, Exeter College, and Jesus College.

There are also a couple of stores, who no doubt pay rent to the colleges which probably own the storefronts. Of the colleges, the front of Lincoln college is the oldest, followed by the front of Jesus College, and rounded out by the front of Exeter College which was built in about 1620. Of the three, only the front of Lincoln College is original, as the other two colleges rebuilt or extensively remodeled around 1620. Lincoln college, however, retains much of its medieval charm and has been well maintained through the ages.

Turl Street

ST. EDMUND HALL

S

t. Edmunds Hall is a small Oxford college which has been in existence for several centuries. It is the only remaining Hall to still exist. It is named in honor of an Archbishop of Canterbury named Edmund of Abington. While some would like to believe that the archbishop actually founded this college, the historical record is silent. While it is true that Archbishop Abington did teach in Oxford, there is no indication that he founded a college there and that St. Edmunds Hall is the successor to the institution.

For a couple of centuries, St. Edmunds Hall was part of Queens College. Although it had a separate administration, it was basically owned by Queens. Then it achieved its independence and, in the last 50 years, was elevated to the position of an Oxford college, even though it kept the name St. Edmunds Hall.

Also known as the Teddy, it occupies a small set of buildings, the entrance to which is located on Queens Lane. The courtyard has a large well, which used to be operational. There is also a large building, half of which was built during the 16th century and the other half of more later vintage. There is also a set of small medieval lookSt. Edmund’s Origins

ST. EDMUND HALL

The Quadrangle at Teddy

ST. EDMUND HALL

ing buildings which are actually quite new. Rounding out the Main quadrangle is a large stone structure with vague Gothic lines which contained the original hall. The Chapel extends off the rear of the library.

The new library is found in a deconsecrated church known as St. Peter’s of the East which sits to the North of the Main quadrangle. Parts of that library are more than 800 years old.

The Teddy is a popular college amongst the undergraduates and usually fields some very good sporting teams, and contains its share of scholars as well. While it does not have the buildings or the endowment of 99% of the other colleges at Oxford, it is a charming place.

A Grave Marker in the Teddy Garden

ST. EDMUND HALL

EXETER COLLEGE

E

xeter College is one of the older colleges at Oxford. It was founded in the early 14th century, and its first students were primarily from the South West of England. The oldest part of the college is Palmer Tower, which is the early gatehouse to the original college. However, that is the only part of the original college which remains, and what stands currently was built in the early 17th century for the most part. The exception is the Chapel Exeter Broad

EXETER COLLEGE

which was built in the mid-19th century. The Chapel looked out of place in the small quadrangle. What’s more, the Chapel it replaced was apparently perfectly good. Records indicate that it could not be torn down, but instead had to be blown apart with gunpowder. Inside, however, the current Chapel is very picturesque. I also found my way into the Fellows Garden, which is loaded with beautiful plants.

Exeter Chapel and Hall

PITT-RIVERS MUSEUM, OXFORD

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ne of the hidden treasures of Oxford University is the Pitt Rivers Museum. It is a Gothic revival building on the north side of campus, and was built in the 19th century. This is new by Oxford standards. The front of the building is brick, but extending off the back is a large collection area with a glass roof allowing natural sunlight to light the entire museum. For those cases that are not well lit, the library gives patrons a flashlight.

The collection is incredibly diverse. Instead of ranking things by geography or by chronology, the collection is instead ordered by function. This means that the exhibit on smoking would include things that were smoked by the Egyptians, things that were smoked by Vikings, things are smoked by Americans, and even cannabis!. Honest to God, the smoking exhibit contains a bag of reefer and a pipe. One of the most unusual exhibits pertains to the way man has dealt with its enemies, and included in this exhibit is the shrunken head shown at the right. Beth was mesmerized by it!

Shrunken Heads at Pitt Rivers

FAMOUS FOLKS AT THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM, OXFORD

THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM

T

he Ashmolean Museum at Oxford is a world class museum. It is filled with treasures dating back to ancient times. It has a tremendous collection of marble statues coming from both Greece and Rome, as well as other artifacts from that time and place. It also contains the so-called Alfred Jewel, which is a gold trinket attesting to the fact that Alfred the Great ordered that it be created. It is one of the few artifacts actually tied to that great Saxon King. Also of interest were the maces representing the different faculties of the University and which date back Grand Staircase

THE ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM

several centuries. Also notable is a Stradivarius violin which is a so-called “virgin� inasmuch as it has never been played. It is one of a kind.

The museum was built in the early 19th century and is, as you might expect, as solid as the rock it is made of. Also associated with the Ashmolean Museum is the Taylor Institute, which in Oxford speak is known as the Taylorian, which is dedicated to the language arts.

The Ashmolean Museum is not meant to compete with the Pitt Rivers Museum, which contains a more eclectic collection and is slightly younger than the Ashmolean. The true treasures are in the Ashmolean, while all the cool stuff is at Pitt-Rivers. Enjoyed them both.

Cardinal Pole and the Lord Protector

JESUS COLLEGE

J

esus College was founded in the late 16th century and has always attracted students from Wales. This was reinforced by generous donations from Queen Elizabeth the first, whose grandfather, Henry VII, was from Wales.

For centuries Jesus College was rather small and undistinguished. However, during the 20th century it became famous for its work in science and particularly in the field of physics.

The president of my College was a gentleman named Dr. Louis Salter, who was a Rhodes scholar and studied physics at Jesus College.

As a matter of fact, he and his wife were married in the Chapel on Christmas Eve during his time there. Also, Byron Trippet, another president of Wabash College and a Rhodes scholar, was a student in classics at Jesus ColA College for the Welsh

JESUS COLLEGE

THE BROAD

T

he Broad parallels the High. Exeter, Balliol and Trinity Colleges front this street. There is also a cross made of bricks which marks the spot where the Catholics burned the Anglican Bishops and Archbishop at the stake.

The Broad is also the home of the world famous Blackwell’s Bookstore.

THE BROAD

Views on the Broad: Master’s Lodgings, Balliol College; the Clarendon Building; and old entrance to the old Ashmolean; Detail of Sheldonian Theater showing the royal arms of the restored King Charles II

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD

CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, OXFORD

TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD

T

rinity College is located on Broad . It was originally founded by Benedictine monks in the mid-15th century, when it was known as Durham College.

However, the college was closed during the Reformation. It was reopened during the Counter Reformation, by a catholic named Pope, and has remained in existence to this day. It is a rich college with a beautiful chapel filled with incredible wood carvings by Grindling Gibbons..

A Popish College

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

Arial and Ancient

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

“Brideshead Revisited”

TRINITY COLLEGE, OXFORD

Boating Victory; a garden wall, and old gothic section appended to a classical block

Views of Trinity College

THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD

C

orpus Christi College was founded in the early 16th century by Bishop Fox, of Winchester. However, it was meant from the beginning to be a secular institution. Accordingly, there were many innovations which became the hallmark of Renaissance thinking. The first was a secular library. The Corpus Christi library was visited and judged by Erasmus in about 1520 to be one of the best libraries in existence. Also, the college specialized in classical education, including the study of Greek and Arabic.

The study of these languages opened up the ancient texts which were all but lost during the medieval period. Corpus was the first college to teach Greek and Arabic. The college has always been small and remains so. There are maybe only 400 students, both graduate and undergraduate. The college sits between Christ Church and Merton College, with the front gate on Merton Street. It has a central sundial which tells time 28 different ways.

A Walk Down The High

THE EXAMINATION SCHOOLS, OXFORD

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

The Camera

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

Another Era

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

Steeple and Clarendon

RADCLIFFE SQUARE

While we were in Oxford, film crews were there working on the movie “Brideshead Revisited.�

On one of the days of filming I walked through Radcliffe Square and saw a group of actors sitting on the front steps of the great Bodleian Library all of them in period dress from the early 20th century. The scene abovecould have been taken in 1910. However, if you look at the actor closest to the camera, you will see that he is talking on his cell phone.

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

During my first week at Oxford I came across 5 people who made me start thinking.

The first was a woman in my class who lived in LA all her life. Then, for reasons she wouldn’t reveal, she sold all her possessions, and bought a one way ticket to Heath Row. She came to Oxford for a couple weeks at Christ Church to think things over,... a pretty nice venue for a major reinvention. At first, I could not understand it. How could that possibly be a good move? But I thought about it, and I grew to respect her bravery in scuttling her old life, of which she had become dissatisfied. She obviously had her reasons. And imagine, an absolutely clean slate, or as clean as one can get in our digital age. Anyway, hats off to her.

Then there was my tutor, Julian Munby. Our class was on the architec-

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

tural history of various parts of the several colleges and university buildings. Julian was with an organization called “Oxford Archeology.”

He made it quite clear that he did not attend Oxford as a student. His work as an archeologist of medieval sites is substantial, but you wouldn’t know it talking to him. He could speak and read Latin, perfectly, and would read illegible documents. When we would enter a certain building, he wouldn’t say anything. He would find a comfortable seat, and start looking at the ceilings, and then work his way down to the floor.

We would all do the same. Then he would talk. Very few words, but concise. Come to find out, his father was a long time don/professor at Nuffield College. Julian grew up in Oxford, attended Magdalen College School, and only went to the University of London because neither Oxford nor Cambridge offered such program. He has been on TV several times as an expert on English medieval history. He wrote a book on the medieval architecture of All Souls College, which means he had access

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

to the college, its library and its archives‌no small feat. His brother was the judge of the Paul McCartney divorce. He rode his bike around Oxford with his old boy muffler wrapped around his neck. Pretty impressive by any measure, but what really came through to me was a guy who was doing the one thing in his life that he loved, and that is a luxury which cannot be purchased. Together with his incredible humility, he was a heck of a guy who I greatly admire.

In stark contrast was a man who I call the Dead Lawyer. I sat with him and his wife for a meal in hall. He was a litigator, and a partner at a large firm in Minneapolis. His wife did most of the talking. He was so burned out, he really LOOKED suicidal. He jumped through all the hoops: college, law school, partnership. And at an incredible cost. Here he was in the 500 year old hall at Christ Church, and he just wasn’t there. To me, he was the ghost of Christmas future- What I saw in him,

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

I could somehow see happening me. And with the flip of an anatomical switch, the guy could have a heart attack or stroke that lays him low.

How incredibly terrible that would be, to live in abject misery, only to die young.

The next was Mr. Dick Lawyer. Beth and I ate at the same table with him and his wife toward the head of Christ Church hall on Wednesday night. There we were, in that beautiful hall, and this nerd with a bowtie starts regaling us with stories of private dining with Justice Sandra Day O’Conner. WTF? The stories may have been true... I mean the dude was wearing a bowtie. But he was such a tool, and a boorish dinner companion to boot. These guys are so wrapped up in themselves and their egos that they have no idea how alienating they are, even to peers.

Another helpful lesson for me.

FIVE PEOPLE I MET

Earlier that same evening, in the buttery (“student bar”), just outside hall, we met a guy who was about 65 years old and was a deputy DA in Los Angeles. Now for a 65 year old man to be a deputy DA smacks of underachievement. Perhaps. But the guy was non-assuming, jovial, appropriately talkative about appropriate topics, ego neutral and could care less about his profession while he was away on vacation, could care less about his current case load, and could care even less about the seriousness of it all. He was pragmatic about the criminal justice system and his role in it. And it was just a role he played…not a life he lived 24/7. This is 180 degrees from the way my career progressed, and the win at all cost mind set. I envied his freedom that such an outlook brings.

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

The Earl of Pembroke stands guard outside the oldest section of the Bodleian Library.

T

he heart of the university, if there is such a thing, is its great library, known as the Bodleian.

The Bodleian Library has evolved over several centuries, And is the envy of all its rivals. It started off with very humble beginnings in the 14th century, when the upstairs of the new Congregation House was converted into a chained library. It has seen its growth come in spurts, with great growth in the 17th century and again in the 20th century.

There is a rule that no books may be checked out of An Early Library

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

Opposite:

This Page:

The Original Bodleian

the Bodleian library. Back during the reign of Charles I, while he was in exile in Oxford, requisitioned a book from the Bodleian and instructed his assistant to fetch it. However, the request was denied as that is the rule: no books can be checked out of the Bodleian library.

In the early 15th century, money was given to the University for the establishment of a library which was to sit atop the Divinity School. This is known as Duke Humphrey’s library, Duke Humphrey being the brother of King Henry V

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

From the Divinity School to the Sheldonian

THE BODLEIAN LIBRARY

and, more importantly, the uncle of the child King Henry VI. He was a man of learning and apparently knew Chaucer. He also was a collector of books and manuscripts, which during this period were written by hand, as the printing press had not yet been invented. Duke Humphrey’s Library still exists, and is visited regularly by tourists. It has a beautiful painted ceiling showing the arms of various benefactors as well as the arms of the University and several of its colleges. Funny thing is that despite two visits to Oxford, and having spent 15 days there, I have yet to visit Duke Humphrey’s Library, although Beth has and says it’s beautiful. Saving it for trip number 3!

An Ancient View

SHELDONIAN THEATER

W

EDNESDAY, JULY 18, 2007 We studied the late medieval colleges of Oxford, including St. John's, Christ Church, Brasenose, All Souls, Magdalen, Corpus Christi, and Trinity Colleges.

On our walk we visited the Sheldonian Theater, as well as Trinity College Chapel, both designed by Christopher Wren, (or so the people at Trinity would have you believe, Not really true although he did look at the plans and gave them his blessing). We then climbed the copula of the Sheldonian theater and could see spires and tower tops of other buildings. It was quite magnificent. When we walked through the Radcliffe Camera area in Central Oxford, we noticed a group filming a new version “Brideshead Revisited.� There were many actors in period costuming, which was interesting, although we did not see any actual filming taking place at the time. We then climbed the stair steps to the lantern of the Sheldonian and we were treated to a great view of the University and surrounding colleges.

That night, Beth came to dinner at The House, and we sat toward the front of the hall. We didn't make any arrangements in advance, just walked in. The setting sun was shining through A Polymath named Wren

SHELDONIAN THEATER

the 500-year-old stained-glass windows, which had been blackened during WW II to protect the ancient glass from German bombers. Luckily, Oxford was never attacked, as Hitler believed that after he won the war, Oxford would award him an honorary degree.

The man across from us, sporting a bow tie and drenched with east coast sleaze, told stories about his private dinners with Justice Sandra Day O’Connor. Whatever.

Thursday, July 19th, 2007 I started the day by eating breakfast in hall. The standard, eggs and sausage, with the added bonus of “blood pudding .” MEMO TO SELF: DON’T EAT BLOOD PUDDING. I knew that today was going to be especially fun, as we were scheduled to see some really cool buildings, and I was scheduled to dine at high table that night.

It turned out to be the most eventful day of my adult life...possibly.

Dinner with a Snob

SHELDONIAN THEATER

Perfectly Aligned Passages

SHELDONIAN THEATER

While eating breakfast, I started talking with a gentleman who was obviously a golfer due to the Augusta National sweater he was wearing. He was a speech professor at a university in Pennsylvania. We started talking about golf and, as it turned out, he brought his clubs with him. We decided that we would try to find a place to play that afternoon. But first, off to class.

A Plan to Play Golf

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

O

ne of the oldest structures in Oxford is St. Mary's church, also known as the University Church.

The oldest portion is the central tower, which dates back to the 12th century. The spire was added a couple of centuries later. The principal part of the church was started in the 15th century, replacing an earlier structure which was built contemporaneously with the central tower. On the Northeast side of the complex is a separate structure, and yet connected, known as the Congregation House. The upstairs was the first purpose built room for University purposes and was completed in the early 14th century. It has served variously as a classroom, faculty room, and library.

A Very Old Church Tower

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

On the first floor of the congregation house was the room where the government of Oxford University met. It was also here that the "chest" was kept, and which housed all of the university’s books, which one will remember were hand written at the time and were very rare. On the second floor is a room which served as the first library of the University.

The bookshelves were arranged perpendicular to the north and south walls, and these shelves held books which were chained to the shelves themselves. This is what is meant by the phrase "chained library." Ultimately, the library was moved to a purpose built room above the Library in Chains

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

Divinity school, but that would not happen for a century or two.

The church interior seems to be old in places, and not so old in other places. The church was used for university functions up until the time the Sheldonian Theater was completed in approximately 1660.

This included graduations as well as disputations. It was also here that the three protestant bishops were tried and sentenced to death by fire, which took place in front of the Balliol College. The three bishops have since become known as the Protestant Martyrs. During the trial of Archbishop Cranmer, he recanted his earlier recantation of protestant beliefs, thus assuring his soon-to-be future martyrdom. As a matter of fact, as the fire was starting to burn, Cranmer held his right hand in the fire first, claiming that since it signed the recantation of his Cookin’ Up Some Bishops

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

The South Aisle

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

Fun in the Nave

THE UNIVERSITY CHURCH

protestant beliefs that it should be the first to perish by fire. Today, a small circular area about 24 inches in diameter and marked with light colored bricks and four black bricks, forming a cross, lays in the middle of the Broad, marking the exact spot where the three men were burned to death. It is an event that is easy to talk about, but not so easy to think about. Imagine the horror!

Church Details

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

F

rom the Upper Library at Christ Church we proceeded to the campus of All Souls College, Oxford, for a tour of its famous library. The Codrington Library, built in the early 18th century, is one of the hardest tickets to get in Oxford, and very few people even know it exists due to its ultra low profile and locked A Beautiful Library

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

gate on Catte Street. Julian had contacts there, and had to use a code to get in the locked gate. Pretty cool!

When we entered, the staff told us that we were not allowed to photograph the interior, but once it became apparent that we were photographing, we were not stopped, but instead told that we had to promise not to publish the photographs on the Internet.

18th Century Desks

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

A Desk and Blackstone

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

The Anson Reading Room

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

Lord Blackstone

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

The Great Benefactor

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

Sir Christopher’s Domain

THE CODRINGTON LIBRARY

An Inviting Table

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

A

fter touring the Codrington Library, we took a short walk to the campus of Worcester College. Worcester is a very diverse college in terms of its architecture. On the one hand, it has a number of buildings known as the Gloucester College Buildings. These were a part of the original Gloucester College dating from the 13th century, which housed and trained Benedictine monks from Canterbury and other cathedrals. It is interesting to see how short the portals are, reflecting the typical size of individuals 700 years ago, which is somewhat smaller than we are today. Then there are the new buildings of the quadrangle which date to the early 18th century. The North Range is taken up by a classical building, much like the New Building at Magdalen College, and was probably designed and built in the mid 18th century. On the East End of the quadrangle there is a classical building built in the late 18th or early 19th centuries. I believe this building contains a library. To the west of the main quadrangle is a large A College with a Lake

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

wooded expanse which is unique to all the colleges at Oxford. This wooded expanse has a number of trails, and small bridges crossing over bubbling creeks, and a rather large lake which makes up the far western end of the campus. It is the best kept secret in Oxford.

After the tour of Worcester College was completed, we were dismissed and I noted that I was running late for my tee time with Greg. I ran the mile and a half from Worcester College back to The House, where I eventually hooked up with Greg. We went to a golf course on the south side of town known as Hinksey Heights. The golf course there was set out over a series of giant hills, and it would have helped to have been part billygoat. Because Greg's clubs were custom-made, they did not work very well for me and I shot a terrible score. After nine holes I ended the misery and I headed back to the college to prepare for dinner.

Golf

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

As I said, on Thursday night I was scheduled from our group to dine at high table in the hall at Christ Church. What an experience that was! After dressing up in a blue blazer and tie, myself and the 30 other individuals dining at high table met in the hall for drinks prior to dinner.

We were lead to high table and assigned our seats. My seat was two seats away from the seat of the master of the college, which is located in the center of the long table. When one considers the various High Table at the House

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

historical personages who have dined at Christ Church in the years from 1517 through the present, one cannot help but stand in awe of the historical significance of the place.

Because of the golf outing I was very thirsty throughout dinner, and made pretty short work of the various bottles of spring water and sparkling water provided to us by the staff, all in custom bottled containers, which carried the Christ Church arms. Nice. We were also served all the wine we could drink, which of course made for a fine evening. It too, was custom bottled for Christ Church complete with the college arms on the label. My friend Greg was kind enough to come up, get my camera and take my photograph. The picture turned out well and I must say it is one of my most favorite pictures because of the circumstances and location.

After dinner we adjourned and I went back to my room. After reading for an hour or two I got an incredible sweet tooth and decided to do something about it. I made my way across the quad and across the street to an ice cream shop where I enjoyed a significant chocolate brownie sundae. It was about 11 pm.

Friday, July 20, 2007 Hello again. Unfortunately, the caffeine in the chocolate sundae, and the Some Very Rarified Air

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

massive sugar infusion, kept me awake and the crash from the sugar buzz left me all the more hungry when I woke up in the middle of the night at about 4:30. It was not yet raining, but there was significant rain in the forecast. The first rain in 13 days of our trip. I was absolutely starving and made my way to the McDonald's located on Corn market Street for an early-morning bite at 5:30. It was still not raining. After this snack, I went back to my room and waited for breakfast in the hall.

While I was waiting for that, it started to rain, and rain, and rain even harder, and while I sat watching the rain cascade like West Virginia rapids down the roof of the Meadows Building, I began to think about my career as a lawyer and my dissatisfaction with what my law firm had become. I came to the conclusion that it was time to make a change. I have had the urge before, but never followed through. I started typing my ideas on my computer, as it slowly became daylight, and all the while the rain kept coming, stronger and stronger. I decided it was far too wet to go to class and tour a bunch of boring buildings built in the last 50 years. Instead, I stayed in my 200 year old room in a 500 year old building, and continued brainstorming my defection from An Incredible Rain

WORCESTER TO HIGH TABLE TO AN INCREDIBLE DECISION

Adios!

MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD

A

nd while my program lasted only one week, Beths program at Mansfield college lasted two weeks. I had originally planned on leaving Oxford after the conclusion of my week, and then traveling to both Cambridge and then the town of Rye for some additional sightseeing and traditional English links golf. Sadly, the rainstorm on Friday caused massive flooding throughout England and was even a part of the national news for the very same week that we were there. Therefore, I could not drive, take a bus, or take a train really anywhere outside of Oxford due to the massive flooding. What is strange is that being in Oxford for that tragic week, in this section of Oxford where the university is, we really had very little idea of how bad it was. The river was certainly swollen and there were no boat rides, near the university there was no destructive flooding of any significance.

A Farewell Dinner Hotel Mansfield

MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD

So I really had two options: I could either look for a hotel room around Oxford for probably about $350 American per night, or find some other place to sleep. Luckily, Beth had a second bed in her room, and it was no problem staying there even though I felt somewhat guilty. Not only did I get to stay there, but I had dinner at high table on Thursday!

Mansfield college was founded in the late 19th century as an institution for theological study outside the Church of England.

These establishments and religions of various sorts were called “nonconforming.” Even though Mansfield was close to the dozens of Oxford colleges, and even though it had a student body, it did not become an Oxford college until just recently.

It’s buildings were designed by famous English architect named Basil Champneys. it has one large block of classrooms library and Hall. It then has a very large masters Lodge which is just west of the main college building area. Directly across from the gatehouse of the principal college building is a recently built student lodgings. This is where Beth had her rooms.

Non-Conforming College

The Mansfield Building and the Hall

MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD

Mansfield Hall

MANSFIELD COLLEGE, OXFORD

The View from Beth’s desk

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

B

eth and I spent the day exploring Oxford. At one point we visited Magdalen College where we were able to view the hall as well as the chapel. Both structures date from approximately 1450 when the college was first founded. The college is filled with stone carvings of the Coat of Arms, some of which were hundreds of years old. We also toured the college’s famed cloisters, which also date from the college's founding in the mid-15th century. We had lunch in the old kitchen, which was the original kitchen of the hospital of St. Johns, which predated Magdalen College. It is estimated that this kitchen was built close to 1400. It is located on the river, and the college stretches northward along the River Cherwell quite a distance, enclosing a large Deer Park.

Sunday, June 23, 2007 we had planned to take boat rides with the other members of The Arms of Magdalen College, Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Beth's class. Unfortunately, due to the amount of rain, no boat rides being offered. Instead we made a quick trip to the Botanical Garden which is across the street from Magdalen College. However, the admission price was rather salty and so we did not visit the entire garden but did see enough of it to remember. Instead, we toured the precincts of the old university including the bookstores and shops on The High, Cornmarket, and The Broad.

That night we ate at the Pizza Hut in the High. Believe it or not, it tasted excellent and was a real departure from traditional English fare which we had been eating for the prior two weeks. The Brits are not known for their cuisine.

Monday, July 23, 2007 Beth’s classes resumed and I had the run of the town. I visited most of the colleges which were Pizza Hut on the High

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Ancient Doorways

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Views of Chapel at two different times of day; and Hall, Magdalen College

open to the public. During my time in Oxford I was able to explore Merton College, Christ Church, Corpus Christi College, Mansfield College, New College, All Souls College, Magdalen College, Jesus College, Exeter College, Trinity College, Queens College, Worcester College, and St. Edmunds Hall. Hard to believe, but each is unique.

I also spent some time in the Oxford public library. On the third floor was a department which was dedicated to the various colleges. While I was there I read a book on the American Rhodes Scholars which included a reference to my history teacher at Wabash, Dr. James Barnes. He was a Rhodes Scholar in the College Crawl

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

same class as Senator Richard Lugar. He is a notable Rhodes Scholar because of his blindness. I visited all the medieval churches I could, soaking in the architecture and historical monuments. After a while they start looking alike.

I typically ate a light lunch and, for the most part walked around all day. I probably lost 10 Kicking Around Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Queens College Evensong

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Magdalen Hall, water pump Opposite, The New Building, Various Portals

pounds while I was in Oxford. At night, while Beth was dining at Mansfield College, I usually dined at the Mitre Inn which is also located on High Street and is one of the old medieval taverns still in existence. It is actually owned by Lincoln College, which is located immediately to the east, next-door.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007 After roaming Oxford for the day, I attended Evensong services at Queens College, Oxford. During the service, selected high school students were given the opportunity to compete for the position of Organ Scholar at Queens. I am sure it comes with a nice scholarship, not to mention the prestige of the post. During each portion of the service, a different candidate would play the organ, which was on the balcony over the entrance to the chapel. The chapel was built in the early 1700s and is Greco-Roman, which was a vast departure from the Gothic architecture which I most common. They claim it was designed by Wren.

Queen’s College is one of the hard ones to get in, and this was an excellent opportunity to view the interiors and the quadrangles.

Queens College Organ Scholars

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

After Evensong I went back to Mansfield College, where I dined in hall with Beth and members of her group at the high table. The Mansfield hall was built in the late 19th century and is Gothic in style. The food was quite good, as well as a wine and the desert. So, after two weeks in Oxford, I can claim to dining at two high tables, at Christ Church and Mansfield College. Beth can claim to have dined in three halls, including Mansfield, Christ Church, and Pembroke College.

Friday, July 27, 2007 we awoke and began the journey home. The train was not running to London because of the floods, and so we made arrangements to ride the bus Mansfield High Table with Beth

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Opposite: Views of Magdalen College.

This page: Punts, and the gate to The Queen’s College

from Oxford to Heathrow Airport, London which went off without a hitch except for the fact that while we were leaving Oxford there was apparently some sort of mechanical difficulty with the bus which required some decisions being made by the bus driver as to whether he would continue to Heathrow or not. Fortunately for our timetable, he opted to make the trip. When we arrived at Heathrow we checked in and then ate at the TGI Friday's restaurant which is located in the airport. We departed for home at approximately 4 o'clock London time. We landed approximately 9 hours later at seven o'clock p.m. local time in Chicago. However, according to our clocks, it was about three o'clock in the morning. We were able to get our luggage and go to the Hilton Hotel, which is located just inside the airport, where we used some of our overnight bonus nights through the Hilton Honors awards program. The next morning, SaturBack to Heathrow

THE QUEEN’S COLLEGE

NEW COLLEGE LANE

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Magdalen College

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

Opposite: Along the banks of the Cherwell This Page: Upstream; College Portals

Magdalen College, Oxford

MAGDALEN COLLEGE

day, we made our way downtown, where we caught the Indiana train, and made the trip to the Indiana Dune's State Park. There we were met

by Beth’s mom, who took us back to Logansport and we arrived safely, but changed.

It was a trip, I think, that changed the way both of us look at the world. Beth was rejuvenated courtesy of Eli Lilly, and I was a changed and changing man. In many ways, I went to England, and never came home. .

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