Finch Co Autumn 2014

Autumn 2014

Home T H E H O M E & L I F E S T Y L E M A G A Z I N E F R O M F I N C H & C O E S TAT E A G E N T S

Welcome Finch & Co Estate Agents Katharine Connolly, Branch Manager Katharine has long had connections with Wimbledon with her family having been the founders of ‘Connolly Leather’, responsible for the luxury interiors of many quality cars including Rolls Royce.

Her interests include tennis, golf and the arts. She regularly plays tennis at the Westside Tennis Club in Wimbledon and studied drama many years ago. Katharine has been working in Estate Agency for over 10 years and plans to be at Finch & Co. for many years to come.

Stefan Rojas, Sales Manager Stefan is a dynamic and enthusiastic member of the team. His interests include golf, football and fine dining. He is a warm and welcoming person and loves to make the experience of moving exciting and enjoyable. Stefan has been working in Estate Agency for over 9 years and doesn’t just see it as a job but loves the experience of meeting new people on a day to day basis.

Raza Ali, Sales Negotiator Raza started his estate agency career soon after he graduated with honours in Law. An Oxford boy who constantly compares the character of Merton Park to that of his home town, he is extremely passionate about property and enjoys discussing all its aspects. In his spare time Raza loves being a host to friends and family and enjoys keeping fit, so much so he is a member of a local football club.

Beryl Bowers, Administrator Beryl has been part of the Finch & Co. team since 1990 having previously bought her first home in Nelson Road from them. Having lived in the Merton Park and Wimbledon areas for over 40 years, she has a wealth of local knowledge which lends itself to be a great communication tool with both vendors and purchasers alike.

Beryl enjoys spending time with her grandchildren and is also a keen artist with her pictures sometimes being exhibited in the office window display.

Martin Humphreys, Director Martin has worked in the local area since 1986, so it was with great pleasure in 2004 that he began his working association with the Merton Park Estates office and has enjoyed his relationship ever since. He’s known as approachable, hard-working, determined and cheerful, and always listens. He says “we treat people like real people” which makes all the difference.

CONTENTS 4 Design

A Splash of Colour

The colours you choose for your home will play a large role in determining the feel of each room. Anthea Gray from Dressing Room Interiors helps set the tone.

7 Events Out and About

Summer may soon start fading, but there are plenty of events on the horizon for autumn. From learning about crafts to inspiring literature, Bronwen Hiller picks some events for the diary.

10 Room Design Bedroom Style

Your bedroom is your haven and retreat. Here are some tips from Amara on creating the ambience you need for a good night’s sleep.

14 What’s New

We take a look at what’s new, from picnic-inspired tableware to the Miele knock2Open dishwasher.

16 Boating Life in The Slow Lane

The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal is considered by many to be the most picturesque waterway in the whole of the UK.

19 The Local Scene 27 Escapes A Step Back in Time

The village of Lavenham may be Suffolk’s best kept secret.

Packed with history, character, and delicious afternoon teas, it couldn’t be any more charming. Giselle Whiteaker strolls into the medieval past.

30 Cuisine

A Piggy Provenance

A lot of restaurants talk about local provenance. Recentlyopened THE PIG-near Bath lives, breathes and eats it. Giselle Whiteaker goes foraging.

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Health & Fitness Hands on Health

Not feeling 100 percent? An illness you can’t quite put your finger on? Katherine Crowther discovers how hands-on health could help.

37 Motoring

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Events

Out and About

Summer may be fading, but there’s still plenty to look forward to in the coming months, which is seen in our latest edition with a host of hot tips for the season and helpful hints for the home. As well as some ideas on colour in your home and how to style your bedroom, we look forward to a great season of arts in Ruthin, Wales and a reading session at the Bath Children’s Literature Festival, among other things.

We introduce some of the latest eye-catching and innovative products on the market in our ‘What’s New’ section, including the salad zinger, a handy invention for helping whip up tasty dressings in a flash. We wander through medieval Lavenham, laying our heads to rest at the gorgeous Swan at Lavenham and wandering through the lovely Suffolk countryside.

We dine at THE PIG – near Bath, a restaurant with rooms that takes provenance seriously. Then Giselle Whiteaker takes us on a tour of Kathmandu, where we learn to balance calm and chaos. Lauren McFarland finds calm in some British barn conversions.

Country Roads by Caterham

It may not come with all the mod cons, but that’s exactly the point of a Caterham Seven. This car is made for pure driving pleasure.

40 Travel Finding Calm in Kathmandu

Kathmandu is a chaotic jumble of people, colours and sights.

But amongst the alley temples and beaming grins, there’s an oasis of calm at Dwarika’s Hotel. Giselle Whiteaker explores.

We counter our ills with systematic kinesiology, to tackle those not-quite-well feelings, which leaves us fit and healthy, ready to welcome in the autumn colours.

Happy reading.

Sophie Green Editor

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A Splash of Colour The colours you choose for your home will play a large role in determining the feel of each room. Anthea Gray from Dressing Room Interiors helps set the tone.

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he starting point when planning an interior makeover is choosing a colour scheme and incorporating this into your design concept. Some people have an eye for colour and instinctively know which colours look good together. Others need to develop a sense of colour. Using a colour wheel to understand how different colours interact with each other is a good place to start.

As a brief guide, cool colours are found on the right of the wheel roughly from yellow-green to violet. These colours are used to create that calming atmosphere so often used in bedrooms. Warm colours are those on the left of the wheel. Use these to create a stimulating, cosy, atmosphere for living and dining rooms.

If you have existing furnishings that you want to incorporate into your scheme, this will restrict your choice of colour. On the upside, it gives you a starting point. Take inspiration from objects or fabrics that you love. A favourite painting, rug or vase might be the inspiration for you to build a scheme around. Travel can also inspire – such as the colours and forms associated with Japanese interiors.

Decide whether you want to create an earthy, organic feel, a faded vintage look or a bright, modern look. Think about what best reflects your personality and fits with the things you own. For an earthy scheme, pick colours prevalent in nature, like terracotta or ochre. For a vintage scheme choose muted shades and for a contemporary look choose an intense palette of colours like magenta, cyan, violet or lime green (although not all together).

If you are aiming to create a relaxing space, opt for a harmonious or tonal colour scheme. This is where you choose colours that are adjacent to each other on the colour wheel, as they combine naturally to create a balanced effect. A tonal scheme means working with several shades of the same colour. Selecting two or more shades from the same segment of the colour wheel or picking several colours from the paint manufacturer’s stripe card will result in a harmonious scheme.

If you would like to add drama, opt for a complementary scheme, where you choose two colours that sit opposite each other on the colour wheel, such as red and green or blue and orange, but use them in differing quantities to allow one colour to dominate.

In smaller houses or flats it is important to create unity. One way to do this is to use a single neutral colour for walls and floors throughout, so that you can choose different colours within each room. You can vary the tone of the wall colour across rooms to stop the scheme looking flat. When you can see several rooms at the same time if doors are open, you need to be particularly aware of the colours. Start with the hallway when selecting colours in order to create a flow throughout the space.

The direction a room faces will also dictate what colours you should use. North-facing rooms which receive morning light suit warm colours. The quality of the natural sunlight in south-facing rooms can be emphasised by using cool, pale colours. It is also worth bearing in mind that designer paints such as Farrow and

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/ DESIGN /

Ball and Little Greene contain high levels of pigment and due to the refractory nature of the key ingredients, colours can look quite different depending on the time of day or where the paint is applied. It can help to paint large boards with sample colours so that you can see how the colour looks at all times of the day and under artificial light.

One of the commonly occurring decorating problems is how to make a gloomy, dark room appear lighter. Contrary to popular belief, you can shy away from using whites or light colours, as these tend to make the room look bland, cold and shadowy. Light colours need sunlight and big windows to look their best.

The secret is to use a deep, saturated colour, especially in rooms that will be used mainly in the evening. Dark tones will make a room comfortable and cosy, and if you add a generous amount of white or bright colours in the accessories, or perhaps a white-washed floor, these will stand out in contrast and brighten the room overall. If you’re decorating a very small room with no natural light, use warm dark colours or patterned wallpapers to create a dramatic atmosphere. Dark colours in a hallway can make the rooms off it seem bigger and brighter by comparison.

Colour can also be used to draw attention away from architectural flaws. Unattractive items such as radiators can be camouflaged by painting them the same colour as the walls. A feature wall in a strong dramatic colour or an expanse of colour in a large painting can create a focal point at one end of the room, diverting attention from an undesirable feature at the other.

To create the illusion of light and space, try using

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the lightest colour on the largest surface – the walls – and a darker colour on the woodwork. Using a dark colour on the skirting boards gives a contemporary look and makes the walls appear lighter by contrast. To increase ceiling height, paint the ceiling the same colour as the walls, woodwork and picture rails so that the walls blend into the ceiling and appear higher. If you want to use a pale colour on the ceiling, use a white that has the same undertone as the wall colour rather than a brilliant white so that ceiling and walls blend into each other.

Once you have made your decision, stick with it.

There’s no point undoing all of your good work with a wrongly coloured impulse purchase. Take a picture of your furniture or samples of fabrics you need to match when you go shopping for paint colours or interior items.

As you settle into your colour scheme, you’ll soon find it easy to pick pieces that work within your colours and keep the harmony of your home. n

Dressing Rooms Interiors is owned by interior designer Anthea Gray, who creates beautiful and original interiors. Her interior design services are available online, and throughout Sussex.

See www.dressingroomsinteriors.co.uk.

She also sells original, chic home accessories from her online interiors boutique. See www.antheashomestore.co.uk.

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Out and About

Summer may soon start fading, but there are plenty of events on the horizon for autumn. From learning about crafts to inspiring literature, Bronwen Hiller picks some events for the diary. ŠIWM Duxford Air show

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Ruthin Craft Centre, the most important gallery for Contemporary Craft in Wales, is offering an innovative 10 week programme this summer. All 10 of the open access events feature a different applied artist, craftsperson or maker. Every three-day residency is tailored according to the nature of the artist’s practice but each offers an open studio experience on the first day where visitors can see the craftsperson in action.

This is followed by an illustrated talk giving more insight into the practice, culminating in a practical participation session.

This will lead into events at the end of September which see seven selected craftspeople working in four historic buildings in the town centre as part of the Open Doors Heritage weekend for Ruthin.

While you’re at the Ruthin Craft Centre, take the time to look through the different exhibition spaces.

With a programme of local, national and international exhibitions, there is always something to delight and fascinate. For art aficionados, or for those who simply like a stroll, take a wander along the Ruthin Art Trail and discover the beauty, history and mysteries of the town.

rewarded by chance sightings of the acrobatic figures and appreciate the allusions to myths, memories and historic moments captured in the spy hole tableaux.

Once you’re done, make a point of sampling some local cuisine at the family-run Café R based in the Craft Centre complex. The seasonal specials provide a snapshot of some of the best flavours this part of Wales has to offer. www.ruthincraftcentre.org.uk The Telegraph Bath Children’s Literature Festival runs from 26 September to 5 October offering a programme that will appeal to adults and children of all ages. This is the largest dedicated children’s book festival in the UK and is designed to entertain and enthuse children about reading. With over 80 public ticketed events there is something for every age.

From Michael Rosen’s presentation of poems jokes and stories to Henry Winkler (also known as The Fonz, from the television series Happy Days) talking about overcoming dyslexia to become an actor, writer and director, inspiration abounds.

Ruthin Craft Centre

Designed by Lucy Strachan and Fred Baier the Art Trail encourages people to look, and through looking discover the beauty and mysteries of Ruthin. Follow the 22 red markets in the pavement to find the 10 spy holes set into the town walls and spot the 22 figures hidden amongst the facades and roofs around the town. The intention of the Art Trail is that visitors will be

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Workshops include making art with author and artist, Laurence Anholt. Anholt hopes to encourage creative confidence, resulting in a big charcoal takehome picture. Older readers can join Justin Somper, bestselling author of the hit children’s book series Vampirates in a unique fantasy writing workshop.

For the sports fans Bath Rugby players will tell their

/ EVENTS / just-see-that displays make The Duxford Air Show an entertaining aerial spectacle with a fabulous family atmosphere. Confirmed flyers so far include Red Arrows, a number of replica First World War aircraft, the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight, Spitfire and Hurricane, as well as the BBMF Dakota and Lancaster. Check the schedule if you have a favourite though, as not every aircraft flies both days.

IWM Duxford will be open from 8am to 6pm and the flying display will start at approximately 2pm and finish at approximately 5.30pm. Go early to explore the exhibition spaces. www.iwm.org.uk

real life stories and what inspires them to be the best at every match. The very young can join a lively music and action packed sing-along with author Jan Dobbins.

There’s so much on. The organiser’s goal is to create a friendly, family atmosphere in which young book fans can come along to events and meet their favourite authors and book characters. Events regularly feature humour and book readings, as well as craft activities, quizzes and games. Signing queues after some events are legendary and can last up to three hours for the biggest names – so get in early. www.bathfestivals.org.uk.

IWM Duxford is Britain’s best-preserved Second World War airfield, with a fascinating history that dates back to the First World War. Its story reflects the landmark achievements made in aviation history.

Historic buildings sit alongside the striking contemporary exhibition halls; AirSpace and the American Air Museum. Through the rich displays of iconic aircraft and the powerful stories of the men and women involved, the impact of aviation on the nature of war and on people’s lives is covered in full. IWM Duxford has one of the finest collections of tanks, military vehicles and artillery in their Land Warfare exhibition.

It’s nearly a mile long and offers a full day out, with seven impressive exhibition spaces, including contemporary award-winning exhibitions that take you on an unforgettable journey through times of war and peace. If you’ve strolled through the well-preserved hangars before, head back for the Duxford Air Show on 13 and 14 September, a celebration of aviation in its many diverse and varied forms.

Combinations of historic aircraft, contemporary jets, mind-boggling aerobatics and those did-I-really-

The horrors of Foot and Mouth Disease seem a distant memory for many, but others have not forgotten the impact it had, not only on the farming industry, but also on British tourism. Exmoor and Dartmoor were both affected and as a result, Devon locals, John and Penny Adie recognised the need to bring cheer to people’s lives and to help regenerate the local economy. This provided the inspiration behind the Two Moors Festival.

They felt that a week of stunning music-making in churches across Exmoor and Dartmoor would be a fitting finale to this tragic outbreak.

The aim of the Festival has now moved on, with the festival growing bigger each year and presenting myriad talented musicians, workshops and events.

While the official ten-day festival doesn’t kick off until 15 October, there are sporadic events building up to the main feast, including a free Autumn Concert Series throughout September at Tiverton Parkway Station. The artists are award-winning young professional musicians from Cambridge and the Royal Academy of Music.

The box office for the Two Moors Festival events is open already – see the online brochure for concert details. The range of artists is as eclectic as ever, with guitarist Morgan Syzmanski travelling the furthest from Mexico. Other esteemed artists include Angela Hewitt, Viktoria Mullova and Kate Royal, all making their debut festival appearances. n www.thetwomoorsfestival.com

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Bedroom Style Your bedroom is your haven and retreat. Here are some tips from Amara on creating the ambience you need for a good night’s sleep.

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our boudoir is, and should be, your escape and the place for rest – away from the hectic life you lead. It can be an opportunity to indulge your style but be wary of over design and colours that may in the long term may be a thing of annoyance. In previous years fun colour combinations and vibrant patterns were the trend but in 2014 it is all about the neutral palette; ideal for creating a comfortable space for you to relax in. Increasingly popular options are white walls and bedding with the use of slight colour accents using blankets, cushions or individual pieces of furniture. The most common colour to add these accents will come from pretty pastels,

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softer pinks and blues, although The Pantone Colour of the Year – Radiant Orchid is a louder accent than can be used for a more dramatic finish but will still sit well with any neutral palette.

Adding textures into the mix brings depth and character; to add that touch of pizzazz, metallic finishes such as copper vases and embroidered upholstery will certainly do the job. Wallpaper has also had a comeback with many interior designers expecting to see this trend find its way into more homes this year.

Plenty of key manufacturers are producing wallpapers that have texture but limited or neutral colour such as hessian and woven styles that again will help add

/ ROOM DESIGN /

atmosphere and warmth. Other than wallpaper, expect to see wooden-panelled walls that can give a real twist to the trendy neutral tones and offer the “New England” look with an added seaside feel.

There are several styles that fit the neutral trend such as Danish Cool which is all about a pared back environment using pastels with whitewashed floorboards or perhaps a putty coloured carpet.

White bedroom furniture helps to create the perfect Scandinavian chic backdrop and try using geometric prints. Don’t be afraid to mix patterns – stripes look great with hexagonal honeycomb style prints. The simple living vibe is bigger than ever this year with raw,

natural materials such as cotton, wood, stone and metal influencing lots of interior brand collections.

With this style make sure to add woven or softer materials such as wool or raffia for warmth; as a common pitfall of this trend is adding too many cold, hard products that don’t help create that relaxed, comfortable haven we all crave. n

For more information and a selection of gorgeous household design products, see www.amara.com.

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Alexander James Smoke Shagreen and Wenge Photo Frame - 7x5 Crafted from wenge wood this lovely photo frame features a stunning neutral coloured shagreen leather finish with a complementing suede effect back, framing your favourite pictures stylishly. £123

Andrew Martin Thai Drum Add intrigue to any room with this Thai drum side table from Andrew Martin. In the style of an antique Thai drums, this side table has a chic worn look to bring impact and drama to your bedroom. £595

Bloomingville Black Table Lamp with Copper Stand Lend an air of sophistication to your bedside table with this black and copper Bloomingville table lamp.

Featuring a slanted metal body, the black finish is beautifully contrasted by the bold copper shade. £189

Bloomingville Mongolian Lamb Fur Cushion - 35x35cm Luxuriously soft, this is a wonderful statement piece that is as comfortable as it is stylish. Perfect for snuggling up with on cold evenings and to create the layered look for your bed. £99

Chehoma Holms Oak Rocking Chair Add retro glamour to your home with this oak rocking chair from Chehoma. With a chic padded khaki cotton seat, this chair has a contrasting rich oak rocking chair frame and armrests and is ideal for bringing subtle vintage style to your home. £500

Ella Doran Opal cushion - 40x40cm Bring vintage style to your interior with this pretty Opal Cushion from Ella Doran. This is perfect for adding comfort to your bed and it features a digitally printed design of swirling 3D shapes. £52.50

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/ ROOM DESIGN /

Flamant Fuzzie Candle Holder These distressed-look candle holders are in a striking bird cage design for a chic, vintage look to complete the elegant style in your boudoir. Set of 2 £58.

Guaxs Erbse Table Lamp Bringing a subtle glow to your home, this lamp is handmade in Germany and features a beautiful pebble effect in soft grey shades. Perfect for bedroom with it’s simple organic form supplying a warm glow. £738

Jonathan Adler Rococo Accent Table This beautiful Rococo side table from Jonathan Adler is small in size but makes a big statement in your home. Featuring a beautiful curved silhouette, it’s been upholstered by hand in grey linen and finished with luxurious nickel studs. With a tempered glass table top, this unique side table brings instant glamour to any room it’s placed in. £395

Nordal Deluxe Bowl This deluxe bowl from Nordal is beautifully designed, crafted from powder-coated iron with a metallic finish and clean white inner.

Perfect for adding instant glamour with the key trend of glitzy copper. £15

Nordal Mosquito Lantern Crafted from wood with a nylon mesh outer, this lantern by Nordal creates chic ambient lighting in your space and is a glam addition to any home. £40

Pols Potten Ball Tealight Holder White Star Light up your living space with this set of pretty tealight holders from Pols Potten. Crafted from mouth-blown coloured glass each tealight holder features a delicate star-cut design, which looks beautiful in the flickering flame-light of a candle. Set of 2 £26

Vita Lighting Conia Shade The Conia lamp from Vita Lighting marries sleek design with environmentally friendly packaging. Made from indestructible polycarbonate and polypropylene, this beautiful light is reminiscent of a pine cone with its smooth, layered design. Cleverly designed to be used as a pendant, table or floor lamp, the white lamp is versatile and works wonderfully in a neutral trend environment. £44

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What’s new We take a look at what’s new, from picnic-inspired tableware to the Miele knock2Open dishwasher.

Bright and breezy Breakfast Kids will love the pop of colour Cico brings to the table. The adorable wide-eyed Alessi egg cup has a salt castor hat and a spoon in his hand. The egg cups are designed by accomplished architect and designer Stefano Giovannoni for Alessi, and incorporate his typical fun-loving colourful style. These are among Giovannoni’s more figurative, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic designs – and they’re just plain cute, as well as being high quality and durable. Made from thermoplastic resin Cico is available in a range of bright colours that make breakfast a cheerful meal.

The Cico egg cup retails at £11.95 per piece. See www.alessi.com.

Shine a Light Antique, contemporary and designer lighting specialists Fritz Fryer offer a stunning collection of antique lighting and chandeliers complemented by contemporary and bespoke designer lighting and lighting restoration services located in one of the original brewery buildings in the pretty market town of Ross on Wye, Herefordshire.

These ribbed Ledbury Pendants, are beautifully hand curved, glass pendant lights handmade in the workshop. The designer ceiling lights are made entirely in the UK, including the hand blown glass with its lovely ribbed design and the high quality brass components. There is also a plain glass version for a sleek, contemporary look.

The Ledbury Pendant lights retail at £100 and are handmade to order.

See www.fritzfryer.co.uk.

Outdoor Dining Decor With the warm weather, life moves outdoors, and this is Julia Brendel’s inspiration for her beautiful collection of table linen to add the finishing touch to any outside dining space. With tablecloths in two designs and coordinated cotton napkins, it is easy to dine in sophisticated style with just a hint of a rustic edge. Inspired by Eastern folk art and craft, Julia’s table linen has a contemporary edge with the use of luxury fabrics and an attractive colour palette. The Nostalgia tablecloth range is directly inspired by the heritage of Eastern European folk and craft, and is skilfully woven in a pattern evolved from by traditional cross stitch. Plain cotton napkins in summery tones of cranberry and gold complement all the tablecloths and complete the look.

The Nostalgia tablecloths come in blue and white, cranberry, gold and white, old gold and white, and retail from £123. See www.juliabrendel.com

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/ WHAT’S NEW /

Knock knock With an exclusive handle-less design, the Miele Generation 6000 Knock2Open fully integrated dishwashers are a great solution for contemporary, streamlined kitchens. Simply tap twice on the top third of the door and the dishwasher opens. Extraneous noises from the area surrounding the dishwasher are identified as such and are promptly ignored by the clever machine. As well as an eye-catching contemporary design, the dishwashers feature the latest technologies, including an Automatic programme that uses just 6.5L of fresh water and an Extra Quiet setting, which reduces the noise level down to 38dB, ideal for open plan living. Other settings include a short wash cycle, Perfect GlassCare and a handy Machine Cleaning programme, which will keep your dishwasher sparkly clean, as well as your dishes.

Miele is available from all good electrical retailers, including John Lewis.

See www.miele.co.uk.

Add some Zing It’s always the right time to start eating healthy, and healthy doesn’t need to be boring with a host of innovative new gadgets. Our pick is the Salad Zinger. Salads are back on the menu and this is where the Salad Zinger comes into its own. The Salad Zinger was designed to make creating healthy, homemade salad dressing easy. Salad often lacks pizazz, but with the Salad Zinger it’s easy to create delicious flavour combinations. Simply add your ingredients to the grinder on the bottom, oils to the top, shake and voila, the perfect salad dressing, time after time. With the Salad Zinger you can create exciting new dressings or healthier alternatives to old favourites. The options are limited only by your own creativity.

The Salad Zinger is available from Selfridge’s priced at £25.

See www.zing-anything.co.uk.

Woodland Picnics The Worcestershire woodland surrounding the offices of British camping company OLPRO has provided the inspiration for their latest range of melamine, featuring four familiar woodland creatures anthropomorphically recreated in beautiful pen-and-ink illustrations. Freddie Fox, Coleman the Pigeon, Bernie the Badger and Witley the Rabbit appear boldly in black-and-white across melamine plates, cups and bowls, contrasting with the colourful EAT OUT statement. Perfect for picnics and al fresco dining, and especially popular with children, the EAT OUT range includes a dinner and side plate together with a matching bowl and mug. OLPRO is all about having fun and enjoying the Great British outdoors and now’s the time for outside dining.

The 16-piece set costs £22.99 and the 8-piece set costs £19.99 from www.olpro.co.uk.

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Life in the slow lane The Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal is considered by many to be the most picturesque waterway in the whole of the UK. Ian Jackson goes boating.

Situated close to the village of Blaneavern, a world heritage site and the birthplace of the Industrial Revolution, the unusually high elevation of the Monmouthshire and Brecon Canal takes you through the Usk valley, offering breathtaking vistas of rolling hills, brooding forests and fields of pastoral magnificence. The serenity is reminiscent of the half-forgotten pace of past lives, the tranquillity of Turner and Constable’s landscape paintings in three dimensions.

By day the sun speckles the water with ephemeral jewels, kingfishers dive with breathtaking precision and the familiar fields of sheep and cows give way to those of ostriches and the starched yellow blankets of hedged-in rapeseed. By night owls swoop silently overhead beneath a canopy of stars so bright and clear that even familiar constellations become lost in the cornucopia of the heavens. The entire line makes for an excellent hike, but f you’re going to traverse the 35-kilometre stretch, which begins in the old market town of Brecon and ends at the village of Cwmbran, why not do it in style?

Beacon Park Boats operates the only five-star rated fleet of canal boats in the country. Custom built and designed by owner and manager Alasdair Kirkpatrick, the unprecedented luxury on offer puts flight to any notion of camping-stove dinners and nights spent shivering under mounds of coats and blankets in a breeze-filled tent. Canal holidays have moved on since the dreary floating caravan experience of the 70’s and nowhere can you find a starker example than here at Brecon.

“People can make what they want of their Holiday,” says Alasdair. We are sitting in the sun by the wharf which is both his business and home and boats are returning from their weekend break. They drift in lazily, their temporary crew reluctant to abandon ship.

“If you want to tear down the canal full steam ahead, then that’s fine. Others moor up a few miles downstream and just take it easy and you know, that’s fine too,” Alasdair says.

Tearing down the canal is a relative concept. The boats

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/ BOATING /

average out at about two and a half miles per hour, slower than a gentle stroll. Those wishing to go faster are missing the point somewhat.

Our boat is called The Buzzard, one of 13 currently in service and one of Alasdair’s favourites. At 7’6” wide and nearly 50-feet long it packs in every amenity one could imagine, all completed in exquisite wooden panelling and the highest quality decor.

Each feature is carefully considered and the attention to detail is far from superfluous. Everything has a place and function and they all come together into one unforgettable feeling. The Buzzard sports a canopied front deck conservatory a rear deck spacious enough that the tiller need never be alone, an amazingly comfortable double bed, full surround sound speaker system and a log fire as well as a spacious kitchen, shower room, Wi-Fi throughout and anything else you might need for a relaxing break.

“Our biggest boat costs about £2,000 in the high season in August, but people have to remember that that’s the cost of

the whole holiday. Other than food, which you’d have to buy anyway, it’s all included – no deciding where to go or what to do, no driving off to this place and that, no fuel bills and no hidden extras,” Alasdair points out.

A quick lesson in the fine art of piloting a seven and a half tonne boat and The Buzzard is happily cruising north towards Cwmbran. Clipping along at a merry 2mph you are greeted by smiles and waves from all and sundry; expect to be photographed as you idle past pedestrians since whichever of the boats you decide on, you’ll be driving the belle of the ball on any given stretch. Compliments are almost as mandatory as the greetings.

As you ease into the sedentary pace of things you realise that you are part of the landscape now, a real-life postcard moment generating that ambiance that British people still long for, that slice of an Industrial Britain that had yet to subsume our rural heritage. The Buzzard’s bow thrusters make the task of steering almost too easy and admiring eyes lavish approval

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A Real-life Postcard Moment

upon them as they make minor changes to the ship’s trajectory.

A quick stop at a farm to buy eggs for breakfast completes the scene and represents the only financial transaction of the weekend.

Moored up alongside a pristine pine forest, the fire is on, dinner is in the oven and as the night closes in you are greeted with a sense of tranquillity that cannot be matched. The day’s boating is tiring but it’s the good tiredness that comes from using too oft idle muscles, leaving a pleasant ache. Curling up in the evening, you’ll be struck by the simplicity of it all. Low in the water, inquisitive ducklings bob by the window and for once in your life you’ll be glad of the arrival of a sudden squall, typical of South Wales. The sound of rain on the roof is a moment of bliss.

Soon, too soon, though you will swear it has been the longest trip of your life, you’ll be chugging back from whence you came. By now the boat has become an old friend and you exhort her with a “good girl” as she traverses a tricky bend.

Driving home the car feels impossibly fast and there’s a sense of sadness at the return to the real world. Even that loss is tinged with a sense of satisfaction and reflection. Modern life is filled with distractions and the opportunity to leave them behind comes so seldom. Not even the most luxurious of hotels offers this much freedom – breakfast doesn’t begin at seven and end at nine thirty – here on the canal, it happens exactly when you want it to. There is no itinerary to follow and there are no opening times or closing times. You just simply go and in doing so, see where the water takes you and enjoy the ride.

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/ ESCAPES /

A Step back in Time The village of Lavenham may be Suffolk’s best kept secret. Packed with history, character, and delicious afternoon teas, it couldn’t be any more charming. Giselle Whiteaker strolls into the medieval past.

The grazing bull sculpture

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D

riving into Lavenham in Suffolk is like barreling into a time warp that shoots you back to medieval times. The high street is lined with impeccably maintained half-timbered houses in a variety of shades, their quaint cottage gardens a manicured riot of colour. The sky is powder-blue and the sun is making an appearance, casting a warm glow over the historical scene before us. “There it is,” says my friend Judy and we pull up in front of the magnificent Swan Hotel, the hanging baskets of brightly coloured geraniums providing a pop of colour against the sepia-toned structure.

Usually keen on carrying my own bags, I take a look at the stairs and low beams – padded for safety – and happily leave the luggage at reception for delivery.

The interior of the 15th-Century Swan Hotel exudes history. If these walls could talk there would be tales

of knights and heroic deeds, fair maidens and gallant heroes. Packed with oak-beamed character, open fires, spacious lounges and cosy nooks, this is the perfect place to sneak into a corner and partake of an indulgent afternoon tea.

We avert our gazes from the decadent cakes and scones whispering our names and wind our way into the heart of the building to our gorgeous suite. Every room here is slightly different to the next, making them feel utterly personal, as charming as they are comfortable. I’m tempted to curl up on the sofa with a book and simply soak up the atmosphere, but I’m also keen to explore the village. Outside the window a pigeon coos as if urging us into the sunshine. We accept this sage advice.

Lavenham was one a famous wool town, enjoying such a high standing that in the reign of Henry VIII it

Swan at Lavenham Check The Swan’s website for details of the new Weavers’ House Spa opening in December.theswanatlavenham.co.uk.

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The picturesque streets of Lavenham

/ ESCAPES /

The house used for Harry Potter’s birthplace

was ranked as the 14th wealthiest town in England. traversing through ancient water meadows and The prosperity is evident in the size of the properties agricultural fields. Wildflowers spring up in haphazard as we weave towards Market Place. This cobbled patches like fairy rings and birds trill in the trees, square is framed by spectacular edifices including providing the day’s soundtrack. We wander happily the gleaming white National Trust Lavenham Guildhall on several of the shorter walks, the sun warming our of Corpus Christi, now a museum which outlines the backs as we breathe in the country-fresh air and enjoy changing fortunes of Lavenham’s cloth industry, local the vistas. families, and farming heritage.

Back in the village, after a late lunch, we decide we From here, streets radiate away from the centre, have enough time for one more stroll. We pop back in each packed with crooked houses leaning against to the visitor centre for advice, hoping to find a local each other in higgledy-piggledy rows, bulging over the village we can walk to. “You could try this one, but it’s street. The village’s appearance has changed little in new, so we don’t know how good the directions are,” five centuries, which may be why Lavenham has been suggests the attendant. Off we trot, over-confident in described as the “finest medieval town in England”, with our navigational abilities. more than 300 buildings listed as being of architectural The A to Z of directions for this walk is impressively and historical interest. For the modern-minded, there are detailed, guiding us along almost-imperceptible trails, plenty of art galleries, boutiques skirting fields where green and tearooms, as well as the wheat stalks ripple in the light delightfully contemporary Chilli breeze that plays across the and Chives café. Harry Potter feathery tips. We edge past fans will be interested to know the village of Preston St Mary that Lavenham was the film on our travels, as we swing location for scenes in Godric’s in a large arc back towards Hollow, the birthplace of both Lavenham. Slinking by a Harry Potter and his wizarding farmer’s chicken yard, I glance headmaster, Albus Dumbledore. through a gap in the hedge to The village certainly has a my left and am brought up magical air about it. short. In a neatly mowed field, Before dinner, we settle in one a giant rust-coloured buffalo of the nooks at The Swan and sculpture is grazing. There’s no chat over crisp glasses of white rhyme or reason to its locale – wine and a trio of complimentary no sign or mention in our notes Parish Church of St Peter and St Paul canapés. We have booked in – but it lends a delightfully for dinner at the hotel’s elegant quirky air to the perambulation.

AA two Rosette Gallery Restaurant, which focuses on It’s at instruction U where things go somewhat fresh, seasonal and locally-sourced food. Delicacies awry. It’s as if the track-marker was so close to home include pan-fried cod with spicy lentils and tempura that the author stopped paying attention, leaving us of purple sprouting and roasted curried squashes floundering in the middle of a field, unsure of exactly and pumpkin, but I can’t go past the “Celebration which gap in the hedge we should be aiming for. of Suffolk lamb”, a serving of braised shoulder, confit “I’ve decided. This way,” says Judy, heading down belly, roast rack and tongue jus. Every morsel is what looks like a goat track. I sigh and follow, a mild a delicate explosion of flavour that melts in the feeling of apprehension building as the tangled crop mouth. Topped off with a smooth, creamy white stretches ever-higher over our heads, becoming a chocolate and baileys brulée, it’s the perfect end to a veritable jungle. perfect day.

When we pop out at the far edge of the field we “Time to move,” says Judy the next morning, pulling catch a glimpse of the Lavenham Church’s flag. We open the curtains to reveal another sunny day. A are nowhere near it. We fix it firmly in our sights and hearty breakfast later, we set off, dropping into the plow through unplowed paddocks, tiptoeing along Lavenham Tourist Information Centre for some advice irrigation channels and fighting through hedges to on local walks. We scoop up a few pages of step-bymake our way back in the fading light, giggling at our step directions and stride confidently down the High ineptitude. What seems like hours later we pop out Street to the immense Parish Church of St Peter and onto a road. “Wouldn’t it be funny if this was where St Paul. Its cathedral-like proportions date mainly from we were meant to end up?” I say, scanning the notes. around 1500 at the height of Lavenham’s period of Brett Farm is written in bold, matching the sign on the prosperity and it incorporates a wealth of carving in fence before us. “We weren’t lost, we just detoured” both oak and stone.

Judy declares “…and we’re just in time for dinner.” n Behind the church walking paths branch out to For more information about The Swan at Lavenham crisscross the countryside, following old rail lines, see www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk.

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A Piggy Provenance

A lot of restaurants talk about local provenance.

Recently-opened THE PIG-near Bath lives, breathes and eats it. Giselle Whiteaker goes foraging.

T

ucked in the folds of the Mendip Hills near Bath down a scenically winding road that carves through picturesque Somerset countryside sits THE PIG - near Bath, a 29-bedroom mellow country house. It’s sister hotel, THE PIG in the New Forest has built its well-deserved reputation around its walled garden, while THE PIG - on the beach is making waves in Studland Bay, Dorset. Then there’s THE PIG in the wall, set within Southampton’s historic medieval walls.

Whichever porcine accommodation you choose, you’ll find something just that little bit different.

The rooms in every hotel show distinctive character and flair, shabby chic, with a slightly rustic air paired with chic comfort. We’re spending the night in THE PIG - near Bath and our gorgeous hideaway is nestled in the kitchen garden, fronted by a well-tended cottage

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garden opening up to perfectly manicured lawns.

Couples and families stroll across the lawn to admire the enormous kitchen garden, packed with sumptuous home-grown edibles. The smokehouse behind this is being loaded with salmon to be cold-smoked before being dished up in the restaurant, and down other meandering paths you’ll find the quail coop and the pig pen.

Ducking through the gate set into the stone wall, the relaxed air of this home-style haven is clear. Guests linger in the greenhouse restaurant on this fantastically sunny day and several have kicked off their shoes and are lying on the grass under the shade of the trees fringing the back yard. It’s clear this is no ordinary hotel.

In fact, THE PIG is quick to dodge the hotel moniker, considering themselves instead a restaurant with

/ CUISINE /

rooms. And while every restaurant these days touts seasonal locally sourced produce, THE PIG – near Bath takes it a giant leap further. The menu can literally change by the minute, depending what the forager finds or which produce the kitchen gardener deems to be in perfect condition – and Head Chef Kamil Oseka wouldn’t have it any other way.

Kamil’s eyes sparkle with enthusiasm as soon as food is mentioned. Originally hailing from Poland he always knew he wanted to be a chef. “All the summer holidays I spent on farms, looking after animals, fishing, gardening, foraging, all this kind of stuff,” he says with a grin. He’s been with THE PIG for three years now, but this is his first stint heading up the kitchen. “I love it,” he declares. “It’s different. It’s more about game here, about meat. I don’t know why, but I love pheasant.

I’m also going to smoke ham in a minute, and on Tuesday we are having three of our venison brought over,” he adds, launching into a list of ways he plans on preparing the meat.

It’s not just about local here, it’s about community.

Kamil doesn’t just order from the farmers – he knows them, their families and their stories. “There’s one guy who brings the vegetables for us. He’s the fifth generation on that same farm and they grow vegetables for us as well. If I want anything, they’ll farm it for me,” he explains.

Most of the produce is travelling merely a few miles down the road to be dished up, in homage to the 25-mile menu. Even the sawdust for the smokehouse – oak, cherry and apple depending on the meat – is local. “We work with one of the butchers who tries to bring everything from local farmers. Everything is free range and comes from around us. The trout farm is 24 miles from us and the fish is killed three hours before it comes here,” says Kamil. It doesn’t get much fresher than that. Apart from when it’s dug up from THE PIG’s own garden.

“I always have something from the garden. I preserve things for winter to keep me going all year round. I make a lot of pickles – two years ago Ollie Hutson (in charge of the garden) brought me 150 kilogrammes of courgettes and 40 kilogrammes of chillies. I have pickled courgettes, chillies, mushrooms…” he says proudly. Kamil works closely with Ollie, walking around the garden with him every week. “Every single night we make an order from the garden. We have a maximum amount we can take in one day so we can keep it going. We bring everything fresh in the morning and if we need anything we tell Ollie and he pick it and brings it over.”

In a testament to what’s happening with food here, the restaurant is attracting a good crowd despite being open a mere few months. “I work more on flavours and good, simple presentation. Fresh flavours and local, that’s the most important thing,” Kamil concludes.

Sitting in the authentically reproduced Victorian greenhouse dining room later that evening, fresh crusty bread in a basket on a table next to the gardeninfused oil for dipping, we are surrounded by pots packed with herbs. Kamil wants us to try everything, so he’s prepared a tasting platter with tidbits from across the menu.

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Conservatory restaurant

We start at one end of the board with some pleasingly crunchy crackling dipped in Hunstrete apple sauce and work our way through a Madgett’s Farm Duck potted-pate with Somerset rhubarb and ginger chutney, James Golding’s home-smoked salmon, a dollop of grilled artichoke and Tor cheese salad, grilled Mendip quail and the humorously titled “Kentucky” fried local rabbit, washed down with a shot of mint-green garden vegetable soup.

After a pause for air we attack the next section of the board. The lightly spiced crumbly black pudding balls are quick to disappear before we sample a selection of cured Mendip meat, each with its own distinctive flavours. A smooth home-made chicken liver pate and Hockeggs [a variation on Scotch eggs] are offset by the peppery tang of fresh garden radishes with garlic aioli, before we tuck unnecessarily into the final morsels. The slow-cooked pig cheek is decadent,

Strawberries with Hyssop sorbet

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bursting with all of the best pork-roast flavours in a delicate mouthful and the Rosary goat’s cheese and Heirloom tomato salad is exactly the way tomatoes should taste: phenomenally juicy and succulent. All the while we are nibbling on crispy tobacco onions – much to my surprise. I don’t, as a rule, eat onions but these are so tasty that they bear little relation to their origins.

“If you’re hungry, you can order more,” says the waiter and we groan. Not that this stops us from tucking into the bowl of set cream and Somerset strawberries with Hyssop sorbet that he sits before us.

Just as we lick the last of the tingly ice from our lips, a herd of deer roam past in the field at the end of the garden. Content, we watch them frolic in the fading light. It’s easy to see why THE PIG is such a success. With this food and that setting, how could it not be? n For more information about THE PIG – near Bath or any of the other venues, see www.thepighotel.com

Kamil peering out the window into the conservatory restaurant

/ CUISINE /

Ingredients Makes 2 servings 2x Legs of rabbit 2x Shoulders rabbit Stock 1x onion 2x carrots 2x cloves garlic 1x stick thyme 1x bay leaf Carrot slaw Salad 4x carrots 3x spring onion 3 tbsp mayonnaise Panne (Coating for Rabbit) 350g flour 50g celery salt 50g smoked paprika 100g chilli powder 2 eggs

‘Kentucky’ Fried Local Rabbit and Carrot Slaw Preparation To make stock: Wash, peel and roughly dice all vegetables. Put vegetables in stock pot and pour in 1 litre of water to cover then season. Bring the mixture to boil, add the rabbit and simmer for 3 hours. Check regularly and top up with water throughout. After 3 hours remove rabbit from stock, leave to cool.

Pre heat fryer/pan of oil to 170 degrees Celsius. Mix dry panne ingredients together. Beat eggs separately. Dip rabbit pieces in dry panne mixture, then egg and then the panne again. Place carefully in fryer for around 4-6 minutes. Remove when the rabbit is golden brown and crispy.

Carrot slaw Salad: Wash and peel carrots, then grate. Chop spring onion, mix mayonnaise and season to taste.

Serve and enjoy. You are also left with a great rabbit stock which could be used in a sauce or soup.

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Hands on Health Not feeling 100 percent? An illness you can’t quite put your finger on? Katherine Crowther discovers how hands-on health could help.

I

t’s Friday, 5.30 pm and a long week working at the computer is starting to tell. The fact I recently swapped my old computer chair for an ergonomic kneeling-type seat may have benefited my posture but the problem now seems to be that I’m rooted to it. Still, the work week’s over. What to do now? The gym is calling but I don’t have the energy. A home-cooked supper would be a good way to round off the week but a frozen pizza is easier. I’ll just pop on a feel-good DVD and have a glass of wine before crashing into bed, worn out.

Many of the nuances of the modern-day work experience and lifestyle choices will sound familiar.

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Anyone who’s working in a demanding role, chained to a computer daily, putting in excessive hours or balancing a job with family or other commitments will face similar problems: a negative, energy-sapped state and a sense of feeling unwell that you can’t quite name. The fact that so many of us struggle on this way while our bodies are trying to alert us of that slippery slope of burn out is one of the reasons there’s a current trend for apps, websites and practices which aim to help us track our bodies and attune to the messages they’re trying to pass on. And there’s a lot of it about. The growing practice of yoga encourages us to take time out to heal holistically; the Couch to

/ HEALTH /

5K phenomena tries to get us up and running; and the Walk This Way challenge spurs a corporate responsibility for workplace health and wellbeing.

Alongside these, the holistic practice of systematic kinesiology is becoming known. But what is it? Where kinesiology is the science or study of movement, systematic kinesiology involves testing muscles in order to gain feedback from the body as to what’s happening. The muscles tested all relate to the body’s meridians, those physical pathways commonly associated with acupuncture, reflexology and chiropractic therapy. Indeed, kinesiology was developed by Dr George Goodheart, an American Chiropractor. These pathways all link to our organs, so by checking a muscle’s response to pressure, a systematic kinesiologist can identify whether a particular pathway is blocked or if a specific organ is struggling to perform. By checking the whole body across various meridian muscles, a systematic kinesiologist gains feedback from the body, but cannot ‘diagnose’ an illness or medical condition in the way that your local GP might. That said, the feedback gained can be informative as muscle response which is weak or spongy (particularly if items such as sugar are introduced) gives a qualified practitioner plenty of information about something a body is having difficulty with.

This might sound like a fairly basic method of trying to understand what’s going on within the body, especially when you think of the whole gambit of expensive medical diagnostics (such as blood tests, scans and imaging technology, the health service’s usual diagnostic tools). It’s certainly not a substitute for medical intervention, but when you think that often those medical tests come back normal yet you still feel distinctly unwell, systemic kinesiology presents as a pro-active approach to being aware of your body and identifying and eliminating problems.

Its increasing popularity speaks volumes. Systematic kinesiology seems to be filling something of a niche.

As a healing practice it offers a hands-on approach to improving health for many who constantly go through weeks and months of the “I don’t feel well” kind. We know we need to take action to improve symptoms we can’t quite identify and sometimes the pharmaceutical route might not be the only option.

Many GPs agree, as Dr Dawn Harper, from Channel 4’s Embarrassing Bodies, attested in a recent article, “many individual GPs are able to refer patients to complementary therapy practitioners.” Back in 2000, a study commissioned by the BBC in conjunction with ICM research revealed that one in five have tried complementary and alternative medicine, a number which is on the increase since some complementary therapies have been introduced into the NHS as sanctioned treatments.

There is a current focus on holistic approaches, such as Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT, also known as tapping), which has a widely acknowledged following and, after several scientific and NHS studies, is now being considered as an NHS service or Cognitive Behaviour Therapy (CBT), which is already used by the NHS as an option for delivering support on a cost-effective group-therapy basis.

Systematic kinesiology offers similar, holistic benefits because although it identifies physical distress signals from the body, many of these stem from issues such as stress, which impacts on both physical and mental health.

Additionally, systematic kinesiology is a nonthreatening and non-invasive form of therapy with no side effects, yet it can help strengthen immune systems and emotional response to stress factors.

As it uses the same body-meridian approaches, it also complements other therapies based on similar methods, such as EFT and acupuncture.

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/ HEALTH /

So what’s the catch? Like many complementary therapies, a new trend in healing is often regarded as pseudo-science. Of course, no complementary approach should be substituted for professional medical attention, but concerns are always expressed when a new therapy emerges, regardless of its success rates.

The chances are that a qualified systematic kinesiologist will remind you to seek advice from your own GP, although the intervention can offer a starting point for those “I don’t feel well” discussions or progression for those who’ve hit a brick wall when medical investigations have given the all-clear but an ill feeling prevails. As the systematic kinesiology qualification involves study of nutrition, anatomy and physiology, having identified substances or actions that your body’s saying you could do with more (or less) of, the therapist, according to the UK’s Kinesiology Federation, can then “guide you to understand what kind of changes would support your physical, emotional and mental health.”

The best part is that most actions which spring from a systematic kinesiology testing session tend

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to be lifestyle or diet related: for example, the digestive problems, headaches, low energy and back pain of a long working week contribute to that not feeling well syndrome but can all be remedied with a change of diet and lifestyle – a hand-over of the autonomy for health back to the patient. As such, systematic kinesiology complements another of the NHS endeavours: to get everyone leading more healthy lives of the prevention-rather-thancure kind. The fact that they continually revise and improve their own guidance (eat seven a day now, not five) demonstrates that identifying what’s best is progressive as times, cultures and lifestyles are a-changing. Complementary practices such as systematic kinesiology, which alert us to, and offer remedial responses for, poor lifestyle choices can be beneficial in promoting autonomy, responsibility and empowerment to those who are feeling continually below par. So next time you or your GP can’t put a finger on why you’re not feeling well, the hands-on systematic kinesiology approach might well be able to help. n

/ MOTORING /

Country Roads

by Caterham

It may not come with all the mod cons, but that’s exactly the point of a Caterham Seven.

This car is made for pure driving pleasure.

Giselle Whiteaker goes for a spin.

“Where exactly does our luggage go?” asks my mother

collectors slaver over. It’s very close to the ground and

Judy, frowning at the rear end of the Caterham Seven

it doesn’t seem right that I’m going to be allowed out

we’re taking away for the weekend. Peering over her

on the roads in the prettily-hued blue open-topped

shoulder I have to admit that there’s not a whole lot of

machine.

space to spare. But then most classic car enthusiasts probably don’t roll up with suitcases packed for onward

“Will this be okay to take on the motorway?” I somewhat

travel. “You can take me to the station and I’ll catch a

naively ask the young man fondling the keys as he gives

train,” she says, gesturing dismissively. It’s clearly time

me an assessing glance. In one short sentence I’ve

for me to put my foot down. “I’m not going alone. We

given away the fact that I know very little about cars.

can repack. You can have most of the space. Look,”

A real enthusiast would know all about Caterham’s

I say beseechingly, wedging my day pack tightly into

involvement in Formula One racing, and their purchase

a corner of the space and implying there’s room for so

of the Seven design in the 1970s after Lotus discontinued

much more. Sighing loudly Judy acquiesces and resigns

the model. They’d know that the Caterham Seven is

herself to packing only the essentials.

widely regarded as one of the iconic sports cars of the 20th century. They’d also be aware that under that

Giving the car the once over, I have to admit that it’s

long-nosed bonnet is a rip-roaring super-compact,

a bit of a novelty. It looks like a slightly bigger version

three-cylinder turbocharged Suzuki 660cc engine and

of one of those high-quality die-cut model cars that

that the Seven’s high performance is achieved through

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its light weight and low mass.It might look like a toy car,

is taking motoring back to the basics – you, an engine,

but it certainly doesn’t drive like one.

and the open road.

With Judy busy treating our luggage as a jigsaw puzzle

Judy is still frowning as she clambers into the passenger

that will fit together if it’s packed just so, I sink into the

seat and tosses my handbag down by her feet. We

leather adjustable driver’s seat and rest my hands on the

buckle up and I nudge the motor into first, easing off the

steering wheel. The first thing that becomes apparent is

clutch. We roll smoothly out of the car yard and onto

that as well as the lightweight chassis and bodywork, the

the road, drawing admiring glances from pedestrians

low mass is achieved through leaving out anything that’s

and regular-car drivers alike. A quick stop to buy an old-

not essential. This baby weighs less than 500 kilogrammes

school paper map and we’re on our way.

and has no radio, no cruise control, no airbags and no sat nav – nor to my consternation, anywhere to plug

By the time we hit the motorway a small issue has come

a sat nav in. The lighter port is conspicuously absent. The

to my attention. The open-top/long hair combination is

roof is rolled up in a canvas pouch attached to the boot

not working in my favour. Wrapping a scarfe around my

cover and the light canvas doors push open onto the

head to pull my hair away from my face and popping on

side of the bonnet with the flick of a finger, a few press

a pair of oversized sunglasses I really feel like I’m taking

studs fastening them back down into door position. This

a step back in time. The roar of the engine is ringing in

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/ MOTORING /

my ears, drowning out Judy’s low muttering and

the corners, the mass-free acceleration quite

the sun is warming my face. This is turning out to

astounding, backing up the claims of a rapid

be fun after all.

0-60mph in 6.5 seconds.

An hour or so later, we pull in for coffee. The

The ride is firm and the small steering wheel tugs

parking attendant’s eyes widen in delight and

at your fingers while the engine shouts at you,

he rushes to the side of the vehicle. “Amazing

but tug back, or give the accelerator a little bit

car,” he breathes, clearly awe-struck. As we

of growl, and the Seven reacts immediately with

maneuver out of the low bucket seats – no

a change in direction or a surge of power. This

mean feat – a family sedan pulls in. The rear

is not a car made for commuting. This is a car

passenger window slides down and two young

made for sheer weekend-driving enjoyment.

faces pop out, mouths agape. “I like your car,” says the girl. “I’d rather be in yours,” Judy retorts,

Winding along curving roads fringed by the

although I can see the corners of her mouth

verdant British countryside, even Judy has

starting to twitch upwards.

a smile on her dial by the time we pull in to our country hotel.

Getting into the car seems easier the second time. Perhaps it’s a case of practice makes

Nonchalantly flipping open the doors, and

perfect. Settled into our seats we edge back

clambering out of the vehicle I give it an

out into the traffic. It’s time to put the Seven

affectionate pat on the nose and look up to

through its paces in the environment that best

the skies. There’s not a cloud to be seen which

suits – winding country roads. This is what this car

bodes well for tomorrow. I can’t wait to get the

is made for. She handles the road well, skimming

Caterham back on the road where it belongs.

The Caterham Seven comes in component form for self-assembly with an average build-time for a novice of 60 – 70 hours. All you’ll need are some basic tools, a little patience and a splash of fuel. Alternatively you can pay extra to have it arrive fully-built. If you want to give it a trial run, Sevens are available for hire. We recommend getting out on the B-roads to ensure maximum driving pleasure. See: uk.caterhamcars.com for details.

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Finding Calm in Kathmandu Kathmandu is a chaotic jumble of people, colours and sights. But amongst the alley temples and beaming grins, there’s an oasis of calm at Dwarika’s Hotel, an architectural gem intent on preserving Nepal’s architectural heritage. Giselle Whiteaker explores.

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/ TRAVEL /

K

athmandu is not like any other city. The capital of Nepal stretches along the Kathmandu Valley meeting satellite towns and villages as it spreads its fingers towards the encircling mountains. Eight rivers flow through the city and the metropolis alone houses more than 2.5 million souls – all of whom seem to be out on the streets when we make our first foray into the heart of Kathmandu: the historic UNESCO-listed Durbar Square.

Many of the winding streets here are unpaved, their muddy potholes filled with monsoon showers. Bicycles, motorbikes and pedal-powered rickshaws weave around these obstacles while white Suzuki taxis hurtle through alleyways barely wide enough to accommodate their narrow axels. Dogs seek respite from the heat of the day in whatever small patch of shade they can find, panting in doorways and under mobile vendors’ carts selling all manner of wares, from mangoes to beaded bracelets.

Weathered faces stumble past, their aging frames hauling loads larger than their bodies in baskets strapped around their foreheads, and young children bounce coins on the pavement in a game with made-up rules. Brightlycoloured clothing flutters around the doorframes of small shops, next to stacks of hand-beaten copper pots and buffalo tails sold as talismans. A man sits at a foot-powered sewing machine ready to repair worn clothes and blood-red chilli peppers bake innocuously in the sun on the steps of a temple.

A misshapen lump of wood pierced with nails clamping coins to its bulk juts from the corner of a building. Passers-by reach out to tenderly touch the sacred object to ward off toothache. Along the next block their turmeric-stained fingers caress the face of a statue of Ganesh, the Hindu elephant god, before

being pressed to their own foreheads in self-blessing.

Temple bells tinkle to alert the spirits, the ringing joining a cacophony of voices and car horns.

Amidst this jumble of life sits the Royal Palace, a traditional Newari building with intricate wood-framed windows pressed joist to joist to the neighbouring gleaming white 1908-built palace, Gaddi Durbar.

Built using European architectural designs, its Greek columns mark it as an intruder in this historical square.

Past the house of the kumari, the child revered as a living goddess, a collection of unrelated temples accumulated over centuries huddle in patches. Tiered pagodas reach for the sky, their columns carved with detailed myths and multipillared pilgrim platforms on every corner provide resting places for travelling ascetics, and any other weary bodies.

It is easy to while away a day in central Kathmandu, roaming its streets and temples as locals call out “Namaste” in a warm greeting accompanied by a facesplitting grin. A little further afield, Swayambhunath, an ancient religious complex, sits on a small hill overseeing the city’s bustle. The steep stairs – one for each day of the year – lead to a stupa, its white dome ringed by brass prayer wheels. The cubical structure on top is painted with the eyes of Buddha, looking in all four cardinal directions.

Far from solemn, everywhere monkeys scamper and play, plucking organic matter from the sacred offerings for their afternoon tea. Religion here can be a raucous affair.

As dusk cloaks the city, travellers seek respite. In the courtyard of Dwarika’s Hotel, a dancer twirls, her hands telling a story in refined movements. There’s no finer place to soak up the heritage of Kathmandu in sweet luxury.

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/ TRAVEL /

Mr. Dwarika was an astute man. Many years ago as Kathmandu expanded he saw architectural and cultural artefacts being laid to waste. He embarked on a mission to save these items, which now call Dwarika’s Hotel home. The hotel exhibits an extensive collection of artefacts from the 13th century onwards, and the buildings and courtyards house some of Nepal’s best craftsmanship. The windows are framed with detailed wooden carvings and stone elephant spouts gush water into the swimming pool. The spacious rooms combine traditional design with a contemporary outlook, ensuring comfort, a haven in the swirling city.

Dwarika’s cuisine is top notch, no matter which restaurant you choose. For those eager to explore local flavours Krishnarpan offers opportunities for a feast; a journey through Nepal’s culinary cultures. Set menus of up to 22 courses are peppered with Nepali produce, much of it sourced from The Dwarika’s Eco Organic Farms. Sampling a six course menu is a delight. From minced meat momo dumplings served with mouthwatering chutney, to roasted mushrooms, flash-fried herbed lentils, stir-fried aubergine and chicken curry, every morsel is delectable, igniting the palate and telling tales of kingdoms past.

A satiating meal, a good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast are the ideal way to usher in another day in Kathmandu. The air outside is heaving in the flux of the busy city. A short stroll through the humidity leads to the entrance of Pashupatinath temple. Ascetics known as sadhus, their faces painted pale and ochre, join the

42 |

throngs as henna painters wait to decorate the hands of pilgrims. A few youngsters splash in the ash-grey waters of the Bagmati River, opposite the funeral ghats, burning in readiness. A small herd of cows mills on the bridge and everywhere people gather to mourn, to celebrate and to pray in company.

Up and over the hill away from the crowds, a small pine thicket houses a collection of stone Shiva shrines lined up crookedly. On the other side of the hill the city begins again, but here there is almost silence. In the distance, the eyes of Buddha on the enormous Bodhnath stupa watch over the urban sprawl. The stupa is one of the largest in the world, dominating the skyline. A circle of cafes and trinket stalls encircle the edifice, enticing visitors to linger on their clockwise stroll. Three women sell bowls of corn to feed the multitude of pigeons that patiently wait, fluttering, in their designated area. Despite the cooing, the hushed murmurs of visiting groups, and the traffic rushing nearby, there is a feeling of reverence here.

Energy gone, it’s time for rejuvenation. A dip in Dwarika’s pool invigorates, a water-side glass of wine providing the antidote to the rush of life. The chaos of Kathmandu is never far away, but in this oasis it feels like miles. Here you can see the future of this city, surrounded by its past. n For more information on Dwarika’s Hotels, see www. dwarikas.com. In addition to the lovely Dwarika’s Hotel in Kathmandu, Dwarika’s Resort in Dhulikel offers peace with views of the high Himalayas.

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