Joplin Metro, Our Ozarks, May/June 2015

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14 The Ozarks, an introduction 22 On Location: 7 Ozark communities

44 Ozark Sleeps: Hidden gems in the Ozarks to lay down and sleep

36 Best fishing holes in the Ozarks

48 Ozark Treats: Hidden gems in the Ozarks to get out and relax

38 Ozark Eats: Hidden gems in the Ozarks to sit down and eat

54 Style: Top-notch gear to ware outdoors

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Michael Coonrod Keith Costley Lara Garrett Amanda Stone Andy Ostmeyer Bobbie Pottorff CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Willis Brown Keith Costley Casey Crocker Laurie Sisk Mitzi Starkweather

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CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Courtney Adams Regina Carnahan Lindsey Gregory Brian Huntley Justin Oden COVER PHOTOGRAPH Mitzi Starkweather Kayak Gear provided by Extreme Sports Scuba LAYOUT/DESIGN Brian Huntley Miranda Noland

THE JOPLIN GLOBE PRESIDENT AND PUBISHER Mike Beatty 417.627.7291 mbeatty@joplinglobe.com EDITOR Carol Stark 417.627.7278 cstark@joplinglobe.com JMAG EDITOR Kevin McClintock 417.627.7279 kmcclintock@joplinglobe.com

In each issue: 6 The Scene 8 The 10 Spot 65 The J List 66 The Parting Shot

DIRECTOR OF ADVERTISING Brent A. Powers 417.627.7233 bpowers@joplinglobe.com CIRCULATION MANAGER Jack Kaminsky 417.627.7341 jkaminsky@joplinglobe.com JMAG is a publication of Newspaper Holdings, Inc. and is published bi-monthly. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be produced in whole or in part without the written permission from the publisher. The publisher reserves the right to accept or reject any editorial or advertising matter. The publisher assumes no responsibility for return of unsolicited materials.


Sometimes, we don’t know how good we have it. Because we live in the middle of the Ozarks, we tend to take our beautiful surroundings for granted. While we think about vacationing outside the Ozarks — heading east to the colonial mansions of North Carolina or west to the purple mountain majesties of Colorado — hundreds of thousands of people from those areas are coming here for their week-long destination getaways. Let that sink in for a moment or two. Now, I’m going to take a moment to bring up the television show, “The Beverly Hillbillies.” Now, I can hear some of you groaning. Yep, the show didn’t exactly paint the Ozarks in the best light. For years, friends of my aunt who lived in Arizona thought that most of us here in Southwest Missouri still walked outside in bare feet and drank homemade moonshine from back yard stills — and this was in the late 1980s. No, I’m not kidding here. But in many ways, if you watch a few episodes, you’ll understand the Clampett’s Ozark manners and morals are the sane ways, and the dramatics in distant Beverly Hills are the strange ways — to a point. To prove this, I want to publish an exchange between Jed Clampett and Cousin Pearl Bodine from the series’ inaugural episode as the two discuss leaving Southwest Missouri.

Jed Clampett: What do you think Pearl? You think I oughta move?

Letterfrom the

Editor

Cousin Pearl Bodine: Jed, how can you even ask? Look around you. You live eight miles from your nearest neighbor. You’re overrun with skunks, possums, coyotes and bobcats. You use kerosene lamps for light. You cook on a wood stove, summer and winter. You’re drinkin’ homemade moonshine and washin’ with homemade lye soap. And your bathroom is fifty feet from the house. And you ask should you move!? Jed Clampett: [ponders all this] Yeah, I reckon you’re right. Man’d be a dang fool to leave all this. #swimminpools #moviestars This issue of J MAG, called “Our Ozarks,” allows us all to take a step or two back and truly look at what we have around us, to appreciate the beauty and recognize just how unique our little corner of the country is to the rest of the nation. In the following pages, we highlight nearly 75 fun destinations to visit and experience, be it a historic museum or shop, a restaurant or cafe, or a secluded cabin or lodge — all located either right here in our neck of the woods or dipping south through Branson and into the Natural State. We also focus on seven communities strategically located throughout Our Ozarks, which are potential vacation spots: Kimberling City, Cassville and Osage Beach here in Missouri; Bella Vista, Pea Ridge and Mountain Home in Arkansas and Tahlequah in the Sooner State. Other stories focus on some of the best fishing holes and walking trails found in the Ozarks. And don’t miss Andy Ostmeyer’s interesting, and at times hilarious, history about the Ozarks. Be sure to go to our revamped Facebook page and tell us how much you like our magazine or holler if you have a neat story idea. You can also reach us at kmcclintock@joplinglobe.com, by mail at J MAG, 117 E. Fourth St., Joplin, Mo., 64801, or call us at 417.627.7279. Kevin McClintock Editor, J MAG MAY 2015 | JMAG

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The

Scene Photography by Laurie Sisk

Wildcat Glades Clean-up Jesse, Brodie and Connor Lane participate in the annual “Amazing Weed Whacker Challenge and Park Cleanup” out at Wildcat Glades Conservation & Audubon Center in Joplin’s Wildcat Park. Max Ayala, 9 and Brodie Lane, 10, help remove evasive weeds throughout the conservation area.

Jason Lee and Logan VanHoose, 10, help clean up Wildcat Glades while also identifying wildlife throughout the area, particularly birds. Seen nesting in the area are: prothonotary warblers, bluebirds, Cooper’s hawks, red-shouldered hawks, American robins, mourning doves, black-capped chickadees, eastern phoebes, red-headed woodpeckers, Canada geese, yellowcrowned night herons, indigo buntings and cliff swallows, among others. 6

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» C OME JU DGE

for Yourself.

GOLFERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD COME TO CHALLENGE THE JUDGE and the two other golf courses in Prattville at RTJ Capitol Hill. Bring your clubs and come take on Judge hole number 1, voted the favorite hole on the Trail. Complete your day in luxury at the Marriott and enjoy dining, firepits and guest rooms overlooking the Senator golf course. With the Marriott’s 20,000 square feet of meeting space, 96 guest rooms and luxurious Presidential Cottage combined with three world-class golf courses, business and pleasure can definitely interact in Prattville.

THE ROBERT TRENT JONES GOLF TRAIL AT CAPITOL HILL is home of the Yokohama Tire LPGA Classic on the Senator Course September 18 to 24, 2014. The Marriott Prattville is part of the Resort Collection on Alabama’s Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail. Visit www.rtjgolf.com or call 800.949.4444 to learn more.


The

TenSpot By Lara Garrett

Great Hikes in the Ozarks

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The Ozarks are so beautiful, so expansive, they can be enjoyed from just about anywhere: from airplanes high overhead or from inside the car doing 50 mph down a highway. But to truly enjoy the splash of green of the trees and the sparkling blue of the skies above at, say, the Mark Twain National Forest in Missouri or Devil’s Den State Park in Northwest Arkansas, on horseback, on the seat of a bicycle or with hiking boots and walking stick in hand are the best ways to enjoy the Ozarks outdoors. Here are 10 popular hiking treks found in the Ozarks.

Whitaker Point | Hawksbill Crag Location: Ponca, Arkansas Distance: 2 hours, 34 minutes (138 miles) Details: One of the most beautiful and popular hikes in northern Arkansas is Whitaker Point (known locally as Hawksbill Crag). This three-mile round-trip hike takes you to the most photographed natural area in all of Arkansas — and possible all of the Midwest. I’ve hiked this trail more than any on this list. It’s not a difficult hike, but it does involve walking along a bluff line, so keep small children in carriers or very close s

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by. Don’t worry when the trail forks, both take you to the crag. Most people follow along the right-hand fork, nearest the boulders, stream and cliff face. About half-way there, a waterfall splashes down where a small creek drops off the cliff. You can shimmy down the rocks and explore the fall and overhang quite easily if you don’t have kids in tow. Be prepared to stop a bit before the crag to get a good view to take a photo, then hike on out to the crag to stand, then have a friend walk back to the place with the good view to take your photo. Please use caution on the crag, however. People have died here — usually teenagers, and almost always from foolish mistakes. As always in hiking, using common sense will get you there safely.

Whitaker Point/Hawksbill Crag | Arkansas Parks and Tourism


Location: Cassville, Missouri Distance: 1 hour, 14 minutes (59 miles) Details: I have fond childhood memories of spending weekends at Roaring River State Park. My parents are avid trout fishermen and my brother, sister and I would join our parents, with the occasional babysitter, and relax under the giant Sycamore trees, feed fish in the hatchery, and walk the trails up and down the river and throughout the park. The park’s nature center has hardly changed over the past 30 years, but the new store is nice and well-stocked with what you would need for trout fishing. My family and I hiked the easy Deer Leap trail up over the cave and spring, the Devil’s Kitchen trail around and behind the old lodge, and the trail along the river. The Deer Leap trail is a short (0.2 miles) boardwalk trail that climbs up and back down the bluff overlooking the hatchery and spring area of the park. The Devil’s Kitchen is a 1.5-mile hike that passes by interesting rock formations and a rumored Civil War hideout. This trail gets muddy after rain, but is easy enough for children and families.

Devil’s Den State Park | Arkansas Parks and Tourism

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Devil’s Den State Park

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Roaring River State Park

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Roaring River | Missouri Department of Conservation

Location: Winslow, Arkansas Distance: 1 hour, 58 minutes (109 miles) Details: Last winter, my family and I took a long weekend to visit Fayetteville, Arkansas. We searched for a nearby state park south of town that we hadn’t visited before and found Devil’s Den State Park. This park is near the Oklahoma border, and is one of Arkansas’ five original state parks. The park is beautiful, and situated in the Lee Valley of the Boston Mountains. The Boston Mountains usually refer to the area south of the Ozarks but north of the Ouachita’s. We hiked the Devil’s Den Self-Guided Trail. On our short 1.5-mile hike, we encountered numerous boulders, several small caves (all closed to the public due to white-nose syndrome), Lee Creek, as well as a beautiful waterfall. This hike had lots of easy places to stop and explore, and plenty of scenic features for the short mileage. At the start, you encounter giant boulders and crevices where erosion and cave collapses have carved fantastic places to climb and explore just off the trail. Several caves are peeking out under these walls of rock, and after that, the trail switchbacks uphill toward the falls. The hike goes under a trickling waterfall to a bridge that provides the perfect photo stop in front of the nicest waterfall on the trail. While crowded and busy when we visited on a Saturday, I would still say this is a highly-recommended hike, as plenty of families were enjoying the unseasonably warm winter weekend.

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Big Bluff and the Goat Trail

Location: Compton, Arkansas Distance: 2 hours, 35 minutes (157 miles) Details: Big Bluff is one of the most breathtaking sights found anywhere in the Ozarks. At over 550 feet, it is said to be the tallest bluff between the Rockies and the Appalachians. From the bluff itself, the views are unbelievable. This is a six-mile trail, and it is well maintained and busy on weekends. We saw dozens of hikers during the day. The trail is also frequented by horses, and we saw plenty of that evidence along the trail, as well. The trail begins mostly downhill and follows an old road for the first 2.7 miles. At that point, it opens into a clearing where you can

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Big Bluff | Arkansas Parks and Tourism

hike to Granny Henderson’s cabin (an old homestead and restored cabin), to Hemmed-In-Hollow, or follow the goat trail spur on the right. The spur leads out to the ledge along one of the largest bluffs in the midwest. The trail is carved into the middle of the bluff, with several hundred sheer feet above and below you. To visit the Granny Henderson’s Cabin or the Hemmed-In Hollow falls would have been grueling overnight or full-day propositions; the hike down to Hemmed-In Hollow is an intense series of switchbacks down to the bottom of the hollow, to see the largest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians. This is not a trail for children or pets. The drop-off is very steep and rocky. While the trail is well maintained and clear, there are many different routes to explore the old cabins and homesteads, as well as a path through to HemmedIn-Hollow and on out to the Compton Trailhead, among other places. I would strongly encourage bringing a map, which you should be able to pick up in the Buffalo Outdoor Center or at Lost Valley Canoe in Ponca.


Location: Camdenton, Missouri Distance: 2 hours, 21 minutes (143 miles) Details: HaHa Tonka is a beautiful state park near Lake of the Ozarks. It offers more than 15 miles of trails. We took advantage of the many shorter trails in one day, breaking this up with play and snack stops at the car, which was much easier for our son than a full day of hiking. We hiked the Devil’s Kitchen, the Colosseum and down to the River Cave, and of course, to the notorious castle ruins. The Devil’s Kitchen is a 1.25-mile loop going through woodlands, glades and a sinkhole/cave, which is open for exploration. This trail features a nice overhang and lots of shade in the summer heat. The Colosseum trail is a 0.7-mile rugged trail taking you through excellent examples of Missouri’s karst topography, including a collapsed cave with natural bridges, sinkholes and bluffs. It’s a figure-eight loop, and a fun and interesting hike with lots to see. Castle trail is the easiest walk, and one of the most fascinating, so we saved it for last. This 0.4-mile round-trip walk will take longer than you might expect, as looking over the ruins of the burned down castle is intriguing. The tall water tower was closed off by gates, so don’t walk that way expecting to go to the top. The walk from the parking lot to the castle is wheelchair / stroller accessible and was by far the busiest part of the park.

HaHa Tonka | Lake Area Chamber of Commerce

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Glade Top Trail

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HaHa Tonka State Park

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Location: Ava, Missouri Distance: 2 hours, 8 minutes (127 miles) Details: Glade Top Trail is not a hike, but a scenic drive. It is the only National Scenic Byway in Missouri, and absolutely perfect for a Sunday drive on a nice day. I would recommend a four-wheel drive on the all-gravel roads, but we’ve taken a car twice and only once had some issues with the terrain. The Caney Mountain Picnic Area is a perfect spot to stop. There are restrooms, an area sometimes used for weddings and parties, and beautiful glades to explore. The drive itself will take a little over two hours to complete. At one overlook, you can see 40 miles into Arkansas on a clear day. Another view captures the Taum Sauk Mountains, even further away to the east. I can’t imagine a better time to see the area then during the Fall months, with peak foliage and breathtaking views in so many directions.

Glade Top Top Trail Trail || Arkansas Missouri Department of Conservation Glade Parks and Tourism

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Arkansas Game and Fish

Lost Valley Trail

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Location: Ponca, Arkansas Distance: 2 hours, 34 minutes (138 miles) Details: One of my favorite places on earth is Ponca, Arkansas, a small community along the Buffalo River. One of the best family hikes is the Lost Valley Trail. This is the most popular hike in the state of Arkansas, and with good reason. It has a very high pay-off, for a relatively short and easy hike. On this brief hike, you will pass by bluffs, a stream, caves, waterfalls, a natural bridge and wildflowers. The 2.3 round-trip hike takes about two hours, and follows a creek that winds through the valley. The first waterfall spills into a pool often filled with children hopping in during hot months. You can climb through the mouth of the short fall, under the natural bridge to the other side of the creek. Moving up the creek, the bluff dominates the landscape. The bluff overhang before Eden Falls is known as Cobb Cave. Eden Falls is the beautiful finale to this hike. This 50-plus foot waterfall runs most of the year, and is especially impressive after a heavy rain. For the more daring, a path climbs the hill behind the falls, where you can enter a wild cave. Bring flashlights and be prepared to be muddy and wet. I’ve hiked this trail many times, beginning over a decade ago in college, and most recently with our 5-year-old son, and he had no difficulty navigating the path.

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Lost Valley Trail/Buffalo River JMAG | MAY 2015| Arkansas Game and Fish

Bennett Springs State Park

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Location: Lebanon, Missouri Distance: 1 hour, 57 minutes (123 miles) Details: Bennett Springs State Park is the first state park I’ve ever visited, and the place on this list I’ve been to the most. My parents are avid trout fisherman, and my lack of interest in fishing started my love of hiking. While fishing, my siblings and I would explore the trails of this well-kept and busy state park. It features a small nature center with the Bridge Trail, a 0.70mile loop trail behind it. The Savannah Ridge Trail is an easier 2.5-mile rocky hike with plenty of opportunities to see wildlife and plants native to southern Missouri. The trail intersects with the longer (7.5 mile) Natural Bridge trail, so I would pick up a map from the park office to make sure you stay on course if you are planning to complete the 2.5-mile loop.


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George Washington Carver National Monument Location: Diamond, Missouri Distance: 26 minutes (17 miles) Details: The National Park Service runs a beautiful facility celebrating the life of George Washington Carver. This is one of the more educational trails on the list. The 1.0-mile Carver Trail takes you through historical markers associated with the birthplace and life of this famous Missourian. Start at the visitor center to give yourself some background on the inventions and life of Carver, then behind the center, the trail is a loop that takes you past a cemetery, historical home, pond, streams, statues and the birthplace site.

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Table Rock State Park

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George Washington Carver NationalNational Monument Monument | Kevin |McClintock Kevin McClintock

Location: Branson, Missouri Distance: 1 hour, 47 minutes (109 miles) Details: While most families visit Table Rock to spend time on the lake, there are fantastic, new and well-maintained trails surrounding the lake for families to enjoy. The Lakeshore Trail is a paved, 2.25-mile trail that follows along the shoreline near the dam and provides beautiful views of the water and a great chance to stretch your legs no matter who you bring along. It is not a loop, so plan how far you want to go or set a timer if you don’t want to hike the entire length twice. Also in the park is the White River Valley Trail System. We broke this system up over a couple of weekends, but it provides as much as 11.75 miles of hiking or mountain biking. Table Rock State Park | Arkansas Game and Fish

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Mention “Ozarks” and a kaleidoscope of images flash up. For many, images of place come to mind — the rhythm of hill and hollow, of oak-hickory-pine forests, of blufflined rivers and springs so blue that Native Americans compared them to the summer sky. For others, images of people come to mind — hard-working, faith-filled, patriotic, people who happily trade the glitter of urban life for the sparkle of an Ozark stream, the view from a high rise for the view from Big Bluff near Ponca, Arkansas. But not every image has been so flattering. For some, the image is that of a people buffonish and backward, an image culminating in the caricature known as the hillbilly. It is an image pushed along by postcards, billboards and promoters who have, to use a phrase with some Ozark tang, overworked it like a rented mule.

Milt Rafferty remembers first experiencing the Ozarks as both place and people. A Kansas farm boy, he first came to the area as a soldier, inducted into the U.S. Army at Camp Crowder near Neosho in the 1950s. He later did a stint at Fort Leonard Wood. “The Ozarks was a rural place and was pretty familiar to me because I grew up in rural Kansas. I am not sure how different it was than other rural areas, but it was sure a pretty place,” he said. “I remember helping a crew of soldiers build a bridge across the Big Piney,” he said, referring to a popular Ozark river revered for its cool, clear water. “Our favorite thing to do was drop a sledge hammer in the river so you could go after it.” Rafferty returned to the Ozarks after serving his country, this time as a professor of geography, geology and planning at what was then Southwest Missouri State University in Spring-

field, now Missouri State University. He has written extensively about the region. Although retired, he still lives there. His journey is similar to that of the tens of thousands of others who have made and continue to make their way into the region. They come first as visitors — a tour of duty, a vacation, or perhaps a business trip — and then, charmed by the place, return as residents. The pattern can be traced as far back as the Civil War. In his book, “The Ozarks, Land and Life,” Rafferty notes that while many Union soldiers found the Ozarks a rough, desolate region — “rantankerous, half-manufactured,” said one — the beauty of the region struck a chord with others, who wished to return. The pattern repeats, only more recently a generation came to the Ozarks for vacation, first in mini-vans, then in moving vans. The classic example of those tourists who returned for good might be Hugo and Mary Herschend, and their sons, Pete and Jack. The Herschends were a Chicago family who fell in love with the area’s natural beauty when they came here on vacation. They moved to the Branson area, where Hugo in 1951 obtained a 99-year lease on Marvel Cave. The family began adding a number of other attractions on the surface and they soon found themselves in the theme-park business. They gave it a name: Silver Dollar City. It would become one of the engines that would drive Branson’s success, and put the Ozarks on a national stage, drawing millions more tourists to the region each year. It isn’t just Branson, of course. The lakes, particularly those along the White River — Bull Shoals, Table Rock and Beaver — had the same impact when they were created after World War II. The tourist-to-resident conversion was for a while evident in a convenience store in Eagle Rock on the western end of Table Rock Lake. In the days before the Internet the store carried Sunday newspapers from throughout the Midwest, including Chicago, Milwaukee and Dallas, catering to

retirees who had traded their homes after a career in high rises and concrete canyons for a bass boat and a lake lot in the Ozarks.

In “The Ozarks, Land and Life,” Rafferty used the phrase “semi-arrested frontier,” to describe the region in the late 19th and early 20th Century. Not long before World War II, log cabins were still being built by Ozark residents and land was still being homesteaded, as evidenced by the Sod Collier place on the Buffalo River in Arkansas. The family came to the Ozarks in 1928, arriving with 15 cents in Sod’s pocket, claiming land still available in the area under the 1862 Homestead Act. They finally got title to their land in 1937. The home had no electricity or indoor plumbing as late as 1961 — about the time that “The Beverly Hillbillies” debuted on television — and Sod and Ida Mae Collier scratched out a life out of 40 poor acres, growing their own food and medicinal plants.

... If conservation can become a living reality, it can do so in Missouri. This is because MissourianS, in my opinion, are not completely industrialized in mind and spirit, and I hope never will be. The thin soils and rocky slopes of the Ozarks did not lend themselves to row-crop agriculture, which brought so much of the Midwest into the economic and social mainstream. Pioneers MAY 2015 | JMAG

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forced a tough, hardscrabble life out of small, self-sufficient farmsteads. Agriculture manifest a lot of different faces in the Ozarks before World War II. Apple orchards took hold in Northwest Arkansas, strawberries were a popular crop for a time, and tomato canneries were once common, but none long-term staying power. Rafferty noted in his book that even in 1940, when one in four American farms elsewhere in the country had a tractor, the Ozarks had been left behind. A survey of 93 farms in the region turned up only one. Nine out of ten farmers in the Arkansas Ozarks farmed with mules as late as the end of World War II. After the war, change came quickly: The lakes were built. More roads were built. Electrification continued. And Sam Walton returned to the area after his service during the war, and decided he would try his hand at retail. His company, which will soon top a half-trillion dollars in sales, would also put the Ozarks on the national stage, and would bring airports, museums and countless other changes to a corner of the Ozarks. And of course, travelers continued coming. But with each change and each newcomer, the semi-arrested nature of the Ozarks faded, a bit more of the land was paved, and something of the character of the region slipped into memory. Quintessential pieces of the Ozarks are long gone, including the red wolf and the eastern elk, which those first

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pioneers saw. Nearly gone, too, is the Ozark Chinquapin, done in first by timber cutting and then by blight. As bison to Native Americans, every part of the tree was used by Ozarks inhabitants, its rot-resistant wood found in everything from log homes to fence posts to musical instruments, and its nuts were a favorite for families and animals alike. According to the Ozark Chinquapin Society, “In a once very poor region of the country, the Ozark Chinquapin was a lifesaver for many people.” Deer and turkey populations were nearly wiped out. At the low point, there were only a few thousand turkeys in the Ozarks, and a few hundred whitetail. About the same time, there were fewer than 50 black bears in Arkansas, the Black Bear State. Deer and turkey numbers have rebounded to pre-settlement levels, thanks to the conservation initiatives, and the black bear has recovered, too. But also lost were countless Ozark rivers and springs, valleys and pioneer farmsteads, drowned behind those dams, which provided electricity, drinking water, flood control and recreation — enabling and enticing more growth. The White River may today be one of the region’s premier fisheries — for trout, particularly at Lake Taneycomo in Missouri and below Bull Shoals dam in Arkansas — but what was lost is the fact that before those dams were built it was perhaps the country’s best smallmouth habitat.

Arkansas Game and Fish


Sensing that much that was unique about the Ozarks as a place was being lost, conservation got a foothold in the region. President Theodore Roosevelt set aside 1.2 million acres in Arkansas in 1908, today known as Ozark National Forest. President Franklin Roosevelt in 1939 created the 1.5-million acre Mark Twain National Forest in Missouri, much of it from land that had been stripped of its timber and overworked by previous generations. Conservation advanced further during the Great Depression, when Missouri voters overwhelmingly endorsed the creation of a non-political conservation agency, prompting Aldo Leopold to observe that different forces were at work in Missouri than he had seen elsewhere. “ ... If conservation can become a living reality, it can do so in Missouri. This is because Missourians, in my opinion, are not completely industrialized in mind and spirit, and I hope never will be.” Those surviving Ozark rivers became of the focus of key conservation battles. Traveling through the region in the winter of 1818-1819, Henry Rowe Schoolcraft left one of the first accounts of the Ozarks. His journey took him across the Current River, along

the North Fork, and then toward the White River. His journal captures the virgin, uncut region at the very beginning of settlement, a land rich with wildlife, “clear and pure,” as he said of the Current River. Ninety years later, Missouri Gov. Herbert Hadley, joined others on a float trip down the Current that included john boats and roast ‘possum, calling attention to that region famous for its large springs. It was a baby step, but a first step toward the protection of Ozark rivers. The final steps came

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Arkansas Game and Fish

during the environmental movement of the 1960s and 1970s, when Ozark rivers arrived on the national stage, drawing visitors such as Supreme Court Justice William Douglas, artist Thomas Hart Benton, and Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall — all of whom pleaded the case for preservation. The first time Congress ever voted to protect a river for its own sake, it was in the Ozarks, with the creation of Ozark National Scenic Riverways and the preservation of the Current and Jacks Fork rivers in 1964. Those two rivers are saturated with some of the largest and most beautiful springs in the country. Blue Spring on the Current (not to be confused with the dozens of other blue springs in the Ozarks) is deeper than most wells, discharges 90 million gallons of water 18

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An Ozark hillbilly is an individual who has learned the real luxury of doing without the entangling complications of things, which the dependent and over-pressured city dweller is required to consider as necessities.

a day, and was known as the “spring of the summer sky” to the Osage Indians. Downriver, Big Spring pumps out enough water (286 million gallons per day) to meet the drinking water needs of much of the state’s population. Four years later, when Congress stepped up its river conservation efforts with the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, it was again an Ozarks river — the Eleven Point — that was among the original eight at the front of the line, although its signature feature (Greer Spring, 222 million gallons per day) wasn’t protected until 1993. And finally, in 1972, when Congress for the first time protected an entire river, from headwaters to confluence, anywhere in the country, it once again turned to the Ozarks, this time the Buffalo in Arkansas, a river as isolated — “as arrested” — as any in the Midwest.


There were no towns or cities on its banks, and few bridges. Justice Douglas said, “It should be kept in perpetuity as a remnant of the ancient Ozarks unspoiled by man.” The conservation fight was at times bitter, and continues even today, with those rivers still threatened by pollution, development and local hostility to federal control. More than rivers and springs were protected by those efforts. Today, early pioneer cabins, farmsteads, churches and mills, some dating to that first generation of settlement, have also been preserved along the rivers, offering a glimpse of what life was like. But each of those rivers became another driver of change that, like Branson or Table Rock Lake, lures millions of visitors to the region. They return, and bring with them the change that undoes just a little bit more of the Ozarks they fell in love with in the first place. Rafferty said migration into the region is probably the biggest change he has seen come to the Ozarks during his lifetime, and he doesn’t see it letting up. He noted that his doctorate was a study of the western Ozarks and he chuckles to think that today McDonald County in Missouri is part of an official U.S. government metropolitan area — the Fayetteville-Springdale-Rogers MSA, as the explosive growth driven by Wal-Mart and Tyson in Northwest Arkansas spills across the state border. The Fayetteville-to-Pineville metropolitan area, by the way, has topped a half-million people, becoming the region’s largest city. But it wasn’t that long ago that if you turned at

a sign near Bentonville that said “The Orchard” you could find exactly that: Apple trees and peach trees. Turn down that same road today and you’ll find a subdivision called “The Orchard.”

Schoolcraft, whose journals also was edited by Rafferty, left behind other descriptions, too. They were images of the first pioneers to push into the interior of the Ozarks along the White and other large rivers, and the picture he left behind is not flattering. It was the beginning of the hillbilly stereotype. He found those first settlers to be savvy to the ways of the woods, but otherwise largely backward and ignorant. Children were dressed in greasy buckskin. One pioneer woman told Schoolcraft she had not lived in a cabin that had had anything but a dirt floor for years. He also noted that women did most of the hard pioneer farm work, and often died early because of it. The image of the uneducated, backward hillbilly persisted. While some Union soldiers were mesmerized by the region’s beauty, others found it as well as some of the inhabi-

New on ati Loc

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tants rough, isolated and primitive. The caricature of the hillbilly was helped along in the next century, not only by a ‘possum-eating governor, but by comic strips such as Lil’ Abner and books and movies such as “Deliverance.” But actually, they never were set in the Ozarks. Dogpatch was based in Kentucky and James Dickey was writing about a Georgia river, yet the Ozarks always went along for the ride. In fact, a Dogpatch theme park operated for years south of Harrison, Arkansas, and every Ozark river has been the topic of Deliverance jokes. The hillbilly image made the national stage when Jed Clampett struck oil on his property and moved to Beverly Hills, and although the series doesn’t indicate specifically where they came from, this one was all Ozarks. Many Southwest Missouri communities got mentions in the show, as did Silver 20

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Dollar City. The latter was even used as the setting for a multi-episode plot line when the family returned to its mountain roots to find a husband for Elly May. The term “hillbilly” did get some redemption, however, when Minnie and Lowell Moore filed for divorce in 1960 in Stone County. In the divorce petition, each listed a number of indignities they had suffered at the hands of the others that could have come from a Jeff Foxworthy skit. She listed a turkey shoot on Flat Creek in 1954 that her husband wanted to attend. She was opposed to his going, telling him: “I married you to be with me.” Lowell went anyway, and at 9 p.m. she went looking for him, and found him sitting on a bridge drinking with a friend, who told Minnie: “You know, that is funny about you women.

My wife just left here. She had been hunting me, too.” Another insult she listed in her divorce petition was the time he refused to take her fishing, and sped off in a car without her but with some of his friends. The final indignity, the one that “triggered the blowup,” stemmed from an early-morning quail hunting trip, when Lowell tried to take the couple’s good car, loaded with his hunting dog — the car that Minnie used to sell Avon products. “You are not hauling that bird dog in the Plymouth,” she told him, at which point he told where she could park the car. As for his part, Lowell was upset because Minnie often referred to his family as “hillbillies.” Minnie’s comments did not win favor with the judge, who ruled that in


Stone County the definition of freedom included a husband’s right to go fishing “without the constant and ever-present impediment of female presence and participation ... It is a wise wife who accords her husband that freedom, and a foolish wife who interferes.” As to the use of the word hillbilly, the judge had something to say on that, too, and noted that while it was often meant to be an insult, that was not the case in southern Missouri. “An Ozark hillbilly is an individual who has learned the real luxury of doing without the entangling complications of things, which the dependent and over-pressured city dweller is required to consider as necessities. The hillbilly foregoes the hard grandeur of high buildings and canyon streets in exchange for wooded hills and verdant valleys. In place of creeping traffic he accepts the rippling flow of the wandering stream. He does not hear the snarl of exhaust, the raucous braying of horns and the sharp, strident babble of many tense voices. For him instead is the measured beat of the katydid, the lonesome, far-off complaining of the whippoorwill ... “The hillbilly is often not familiar with new models, soirees and office politics. But he does have the time and surroundings conductive to sober reflection and honest thought, the opportunity to get closer to his God. “No, in Southern Missouri the appellation hillbilly is not generally an insult or an indignity; it is an express of envy.”

MAY 2015 | JMAG

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ON LOCATION in the

OZARKS

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JMAG | MAY 2015

When you think of Ozark communities, you think of Branson and the famous “Strip” in Missouri as well as the little town buried deep in an Arkansas ravine: Eureka Springs. Both communities are their respective state’s top tourist destinations. But not every Ozark community draws hundreds of thousands of tourists to their streets and establishments each year. There are scores of beautiful, hidden communities that dot the green expanses of the Ozarks, whether they are located in the Show-Me State, the Natural State or the Sooner State. The communities we spotlight in the following pages not only offer unique restaurants and lodging, they are also direct entrances to popular historic or recreational venues. Kimberling City, for example, is practically located right on top of sprawling Table Rock Lake. Cassville is located just north of Roaring River State Park. Osage Beach to the north is the gateway to the Lake of the Ozarks. Down in Arkansas, Bella Vista is just a four-minute drive to Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Pea Ridge sits next door to the historic Pea Ridge National Military Park. Mountain Home almost straddles three popular rivers: the Buffalo, the White and the North Fork rivers. Finally, over in Oklahoma, Tahlequah sits just a few minute’s drive from both the Illinois River and Lake Tenkiller, Oklahoma’s most scenic recreational lakes. Each community has plenty to pique the most far-ranging interest. We doubt you’ll be disappointed. Visit one of these special places today.


ON LOCATION “NESTLED IN THE HEART OF THE OZARKS” POPULATION: 3,266 PEOPLE MILES FROM JOPLIN: 62 MILES (1 HOUR, 13 MINUTES)

CASSVILLE, MO A UNIQUE NOTE: Cassville’s Greenways Trail begins at beautiful South Park and threads north through the eastern part of town, following the meandering course of Flat Creek. Unbelievably, this trail is just one of 74 found throughout the sprawling Mark Twain National Forest. Named after Missouri native Mark Twain, Missouri’s lone national forest spans 29 Missouri counties. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’: Located eight miles south of Cassville, Roaring River State Park is known for its premier trout fishing on the Roaring River. The river is stocked by one of the most efficient trout fisheries found anywhere in the states. Founded in 1910, it is one of the Missouri’s oldest trout fish hatcheries. But there’s more to do here than just fishing. The park also offers seven different trails for hiking enthusiasts, as well as the Ozark Chinquapin Nature Center, which harbors interpretive displays of the park’s history. Each of these attractions, in their own way, showcases a unique slice of Missouri.

WHO KNEW?

Cassville served as the State capitol of Missouri for exactly one week.

ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP: The Whitley Pharmacy (101 W. 8th St.) stands out from the crowd in the city’s historic downtown square with its pink, neon lights and its old-fashioned soda and lunch fountain inside, which seems to have been taken straight from the 1950s and dropped into modern times. Lunches offer comfort foods, such as fresh pulled pork sandwiches and baked beans. This full-fledged pharmacy also features a fine selection of gifts, jewelry, toys and clothes. FILLING UP: If you’re in the mood for barbecue, the BBQ Station (900 Main St.) is a can’t-miss spot, some of the best barbecue found between Kansas City to the north and Memphis to the south. The brisket there is like butter, their most popular dish, and their baked potato salad is also a must-have dish. You get a lot of food here for your money. Also try out the new “Huse” sandwich (A double cheeseburger topped with brisket and bacon). For some of the best Italian food (pasta, subs, pizza and wings) found in Barry County, you can’t go wrong with Papa Vito’s (802 E. Highway 248) — they’re also the only place that delivers in Cassville. Don’t miss their delicious Alfredo dishes. For a unique coffee break, head north on Highway 37 to Purdy (200 Washington Street) and meet the friendly folks at Utopian Bean Coffee House & Cafe for a cold sandwich and a hot coffee. SLEEP TIGHT: Located just two miles from the Roaring River State Park, the Rock Village Court (21691 Highway 112) is a popular spot for tourists wanting to fish, swim or soak in one of the Ozark’s most beautiful river escapes. There are 10 rock-constructed cabins available for rental — ranging in size from two people to eight; with rents ranging from $51 to $110 per night; eight of the 10 cabins have full kitchens, and seven of the 10 are dog-friendly. Similar cabins (ranging in prices from $59 to $175) are available for rent at the nearby Oak Hill Court and RV Park (21778 State Highway 112). 23 MAY 2015 | JMAG


ON LOCATION “THE QUIET SIDE OF TABLE ROCK LAKE” POPULATION: 2,400 MILES FROM JOPLIN: 95 MILES (1 HOUR, 55 MINUTES)

KIMBERLING CITY, MO A UNIQUE NOTE Kimberling City is only a year older than the area’s No. 1 attraction, Silver Dollar City. It is Stone County’s most populated city — in fact, during the 1990s, the city’s population has grown by more than 40 percent. Springfield’s John Q. Hammons founded this lakeside town. It was intended, and has become, a “boaster’s paradise,” due to its marinas and unique location on Table Rock Lake. The city was named after the Kimberling family, who for decades operated a ferry across the White River. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’ Kimberling City’s recognizable landmark isn’t beautiful Table Rock Lake, but a bridge. The first bridge spanning the White River was built in 1922, but was submerged when Table Rock Dam was built, creating the lake. That bridge, buried by 140 feet of water, is still partially intact today. The present-day bridge, a truss bridge spanning 1,861 feet, was built in 1956, and links Highway 13 across the White River south of town.

The second-fastest wooden roller coaster in the world, reaching speeds of up to 68 miles per hour, Silver Dollar City’s Outlaw Run also features a double barrel roll.

ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP Talk about a difficult proposition — Kimberling City sits within minutes of Missouri’s No. 1 tourist attraction. Just visiting Silver Dollar City, Marvel Cave, the Titanic Museum, Branson Landing and White Water water park alone would take a weekend’s worth of time. But we’ll go with Table Rock Lake, since the whole idea of Kimberling City was to be a private, pristine entrance to the nearly 54,000-acre lake’s main channel. Kimberling City is a quick stop for anyone passing through the area who wants to spend a lazy day at the lake. FILLING UP The Rocks Lakeside Grill and Lounge (12051 State Highway 13), is Table Rock Lake’s “version of Hollywood’s Whiskey A Go Go” and has a fantastic view of the lake. Award-winning barbecue, smoked wings, Calamari fries and flash fried spinach are just some of the dishes that can be enjoyed while listening to live music from one of three bar locations or a stage-side swimming pool.

WHO KNEW? Some episodes of the popular “The Beverly Hillbillies” television series were filmed in the area surrounding Kimberling City. It is widely perceived that the Clampett family is from a County. 24 homestead in nearby JMAG |Taney MAY 2015

SLEEP TIGHT Kimberling City’s Ozark Mountain Resort (146 Ozark Mountain Resort Dr.) is the closest you’ll come to a mountain retreat in the heart of the Ozarks. The resort offers families large and small with two lodging options: the “condo cabin” or the cottage garden rooms. The resort offers boating access to the lake, a six-person movie theater, a children’s playground, an outdoor pool, a miniature golf course and a number of beautiful nature trails.


WELCOME TO

KIMBERLING CITY

417-320-6029 Vacation at

Crest Lodge Resort 2799 State Hwy 00 Branson West, MO 65737 Phone: 417-739-5267 Phone: 800-587-1112 Reservations Only www.auntscreekrvpark.com

on Table Rock Lake

Experience the best of both worlds... Family fun and great fishing!

Seasonal Sites Full Hook-Up Sites Live Bait Boat & RV Storage Boat Rental Convenience Store Fishing License

Crest Lodge

on Table Rock Lake 417-739-4456 crestlodge.com

facebook.com/

MAY 2015 | JMAG

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ON LOCATION “THE BIGGEST LITTLE CITY IN ARKANSAS” POPULATION: 4,794 MILES FROM JOPLIN: 62 MILES (1 HOUR, 9 MINUTES)

PEA RIDGE, AR The 21c Museum hotels are considered one of the best hotels in the United States. This 104-room boutique hotel is also home to a contemporary art museum, cultural civic center and The Hive restaurant.

A UNIQUE NOTE This town is best known as the location of a pivotal American Civil War battle that took place five miles east of town. The battle — the largest waged west of the Mississippi River — raged for two days in early March, 1862. The eventual Union win is credited with preventing Missouri from joining Arkansas as a Confederate state. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’ The site of the battle is preserved as the Pea Ridge National Military Park. It is one of Northwest Arkansas’ most popular tourist attractions. A battlefield tour by automobile is recommended; it is seven miles in length with 10 scenic stops. Elkhorn Tavern is the centerpiece of the tour, a reconstructed, two-story tavern that served as a field hospital and military headquarters for both warring sides during the battle. Burned in 1863, it was rebuilt in 1865, and is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP Nearby Beaver Lake (just 40 minutes away) is Arkansas’s sixth largest lake, covering nearly 490 miles of natural shoreline. It’s been called a “fisherman’s paradise,” with 3.1 million annual visitors and eight national bass tournaments per year — offering smallmouth, largemouth and striper bass fishing. Boating, skiing and swimming are popular pastimes during the spring and summer. There are 2,008 acres of campgrounds and 650 individual campsites, along with a dozen swimming beaches, limestone bluffs and natural caves.

WHO KNEW? A unique feature found in Pea Ridge is that all city streets are named after participants of the Civil War clash. All east/west streets are named after Confederate soldiers; north/south streets are named after Union soldiers. In this way, the city preserves the historical memory of these individuals.

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FILLING UP The Rainbow House Asian Bistro (143 N. Curtis Ave.) is the go-to place in Pea Ridge for oriental fare. The egg drop soup, the “Dragon & Phoenix” (chicken and shrimp in General Tso sauce); the portions are generous and most entrees are reasonably priced for entire families. AQ, in nearby Springdale (1207 N. Thompson), is “world famous” for its fried chicken. The restaurant opened in 1947, and it has served “Southern style” chicken to tourists for more than 70 years, letting them know how good chicken could taste in the Ozarks. The restaurant’s two locations serves 1 million customers each year. Noodles Italian Kitchen (3748 Mall Ave.), located in north Fayetteville, is a family-owned and operated restaurant known for its homemade parmesan spinach dip, thick alfredo sauce and roma tomatoes imported from the San Marzen Valley in Italy. SLEEP TIGHT The 21c Museum Hotel (200 NE A St.), located in nearby downtown Bentonville, is just one of three such hotels found in the world; the 21c Museum hotels are considered some of the best in the United States. This 104-room boutique hotel is also home to a contemporary art museum, cultural civic center and The Hive restaurant. The art work throughout the hotel makes this a special place, and it’s within walking distance of Crystal Bridges Museum. And look out for the large green penguin mascots that roam the hotel, sure to bring a smile to a child’s face.


Simply a Fun & Unique Shopping Experience. Come in and see what new treasures we have in store for you!

TRUE TREASURES The Victoria Bed & Breakfast 306 N. Main Bentonville, AR 72712 479-273-3232 thevictoriabentonville.com

10770 Hwy 72 W Bentonville, AR 479-795-9396 Open Tues.-Sat. 9:30-5:30 Sunday: noon-4pm

“Relax and enjoy the charm of downtown Bentonville, AR.”

Ozark household superstitions A dishrag: When a woman drops a dishrag she knows at once that some dirty individual is coming toward the cabin; if the cloth falls in a compact wad the visitor will be a woman, if it spreads out upon the floor, a man is to be expected. It is bad luck to drop a dishrag anyhow, and many women take the cuss off by throwing a pinch of salt over the left shoulder immediately. To drop the towel used in drying dishes means that a stranger will arrive very soon, and if the towel is dropped twice it means that the newcomer will be hungry, and a meal must be prepared. The accidental dropping of cutlery also signifies a guest a fork means a man, a case knife a woman. If you help yourself to something at table, when you already have some of the same stuff on your plate, it means that somebody is coming who is hungry for that particular article of food.

Animals: When two roosters fight in the yard, it is said two men will soon arrive; if hens fight, it will be two female visitors. If a dog rolls on the ground before the door, watch him or her carefully when they rise to their feet, for their nose will point in the direction from which a stranger will approach. A nose: If the housewife’s nose itches, it means that some unexpected company is on the way. An itching on the right side of the nose indicates a man, an itching on the left side means a woman. Some hill folk say that such a visitor will be poor or needy, according to the old rhyme. The hand: If the right hand itches, it means you will soon be shaking hands with an unexpected guest.

Sneezes: When a woman sneezes before breakfast, it means that company will arrive before noon. If she sneezes during breakfast, it is a sign that two or more people will leave the house before sundown. If she sneezes with food in her mouth, it means that she will hear of a death before 24 hours have passed. If she sneezes while telling a story, it is a true story. Some people say that the girl who sneezes on Monday is sure to kiss a stranger before the week is out. Food: • It is bad luck to spill or lend salt. • If pepper is spilled, you will have a quarrel with your best friend. • If you burn bread, so that the crust is black, you will fly in a rage before the day is over. • It is very bad luck to give away yeast.

MAY 2015 | JMAG

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ON LOCATION HOME OF THE “TRI-LAKES” POPULATION: 12,448 PEOPLE MILES FROM JOPLIN: 183 MILES (3 HOURS, 4 MINUTES)

MOUNTAIN HOME, AR A UNIQUE NOTE Mountain Home is one of the nation’s top freshwater fishing destinations, due to its centralized location (and 20 minute drives) to three major rivers: the Buffalo National River, the White River and the North Fork River, as well as two manmade lakes — Bull Shoals and Norfolk. On top of that, three local creeks (Fall, Dodd and Hicks) offers freshwater fishing, as well. No two ways to put it, Mountain Home is an outdoorsman’s paradise. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’ Bull Shoals Lake is home to two attractions in one location, similar to Branson’s Silver Dollar City. The “Mountain Village 1890” is a historic recreation of an Ozark settlement. There are nine historical structures in the park — an 1881 doctor’s office and a 1903 train depot, as examples. Some of these structures were moved, intact, 125 miles over the Ozark Mountains to their current location. While the village is temporarily closed, the other on-site attraction, “Bull Shoals Caverns”, is not. This limestone cave is 350 million years old, and tours are 45 minutes long and feature camel crickets, bats and salamanders. ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP The “Beautiful Buffalo,” a tributary of the White River south of Mountain Home, offers some of the best water rapids/canoeing found in the United States between the Rockies and Appalachians mountain ranges. Along the upper river, the gradient is steep and the water is fast, leveling and slowing as the river runs its course. The upper section has most of the whitewater rapids to be found along the river. When not navigating the rapids, people gawk at the beautiful scenery, which features sink holes, caves, springs, waterfalls and 500-foot-tall bluffs. A favorite is the “Hemmed-In-Hollow Falls,” a 209-foot waterfall, the highest found in middle America. FILLING UP The Blackbird Cafe (300 Library Hill) has a blend of far-away Romania, exotic Memphis, Tennessee and homegrown dishes, ranging from the popular pimiento cheese sandwich to the Mediterranean sandwich consisting of hummus, artichoke and roasted red peppers. The cafe also offers coffees on the go as well as healthy smoothies. Local artists also show off their work on the cafe’s walls. The Dusit Thai Cuisine (920 Highway 62 E) offers authentic Thai food in a fish-dominated area — portions are huge, and most popular dishes are red burry, pineapple fried rice and delicious egg rolls.

WHO KNEW?

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The Norfork Hatchery, located on the Norfork River, produces 2.5 million brown, rainbow and cutthroat trout each year, which stocks most of the JMAG |state’s MAY 2015 waterways.

SLEEP TIGHT To immerse yourself in the outdoor beauty of the Tri-Lakes area, Gaston’s White River Resort is one of the most relaxing and enjoyable getaways found in the area. Cottages range from a comfy couple of two to large families or groups offering up to 10 private bedrooms. Many cottages feature larger redwood decks and wood-burning fireplaces. Gaston’s also is home to a historic steak and seafood restaurant with one of the most magnificent views of the river. At Gaston’s, the White River is one of the best brown and rainbow trout streams to be found anywhere, and the resort offers experienced fishing guides, equipment, boats and motors, along with a full dock service. There’s even a fly fishing school.


Bull Shoals Caverns 59 Degrees Year Round

Phone: 870-445-7177 Bull Shoals, Arkansas 72619 www.bullshoalscaverns.com

Ozark’s Fiction

Tourism, one of the region’s chief industries, was given impetus by Harold Bell Wright’s novel “The Shepherd of the Hills” (1907), which romanticized the Missouri Ozarks. Print and broadcast media have often explored the Ozark culture in detail over the years. “Where the Red Fern Grows” (1961) and “As a Friend” (2008). The movies “Ride with the Devil” (1999) and “Winter’s Bone” (2010) depict the dark side of the Ozarks, namely its rich Civil War history and its current methamphetamine culture. And the television comedy, “The Beverly Hillbillies” (1962-1971) looks at the “fish out of water” scenario as the stereotypical depiction of Ozark people, the Clampetts, move from Stone County, Missouri to California’s Beverly Hills. Much chaos ensues.

Fun Fact

The Ozark Mountains cover 50,000 square miles, in which 33,000 of those are found in Missouri. They are called “mountains” (though it is actually what is called a “dissected plateau”) because the terrain is much more rugged than the flatlands found in the surrounding states of Kansas, Oklahoma, Nebraska and Illinois. The highest peaks, some exceeding 2,000 feet, are found in Arkansas’ Boston Mountains — both Turner Ward Knob and Brannon Mountain exceed 2,400 feet. Here in Missouri, the highest point is Taum Sauk Mountain, which reaches a height of 1,772 feet. It’s an easy hike to the top, and one of the most beautiful places in the Show-Me State.

Attractions

The Ozarks was once home to two thriving amusement parks, both centered around primitive Ozark villages and show caves. While Silver Dollar City and Marvel Cave continue to thrive in Branson, the same can’t be said of Dopatch USA, which was located just south of Harrison in the town of Marble Falls. Dogpatch opened in 1968, and was based on the comic strip Li’l Abner, created by cartoonist Al Capp and set in a fictional village called Dogpatch. It was famed for its trash sucking animal trash cans as well as a coaster named, “Earthquake McGoon’s Brain Rattler” — steel track wrapped around what looked to be a tree. The park closed for good in 1993. After that, the abandoned grounds became rather famous for its spooky photos of rides and attractions slowly being overtaken by Mother Nature. It was announced in 2014 that new ownership will restore the amusement park to its former glory. The cave, renamed Mystic Caverns and is still in operation MAY 2015 | JMAG today.

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ON LOCATION “THE OASIS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE STATE” POPULATION: 4,351 PEOPLE MILES FROM JOPLIN: 161 MILES (2 HOURS, 36 MINUTES)

OSAGE BEACH, MO A UNIQUE NOTE Lake of the Ozarks is a lake in the middle of the state, a close drive for folks from Columbia, St. Louis, Kansas City or Joplin. The lake, Missouri’s largest manmade body of water, was created with the construction of the Bagnell Dam in 1931. More than 1 million people visit this “watering hole” each year. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’ Missouri is known as the “cave state,” and for good reason — it is home to nearly 5,400 caves. The Lake of the Ozarks area is home to three big show caves. There is Jacob’s Cave, the largest, offering a one-mile tour of prehistoric bones inside reflective pools and the largest geode in the world. It is also the only cave in the state completely accessible for persons with disabilities. There is Bridal Cave and its hour-long tour — this cave has more onyx formations than any other known Missouri cavern. As an aside, and true to its name, many marriages have taken place inside this romantic venue. Finally, there is Ozark Caverns, which is home to the blind grotto salamander. Its most famous feature is the Angel Showers, cascades of water that seep from the solid rock ceiling.

WHO KNE

W? Osage Beach was originally called Zebra, Missouri, wh en the post office was establish ed in 1886, at a place that’s now at the bottom of the Lake of the Ozarks. The city’s designation was sw itched to the more appropriate Osage Beach during the 1930s.

ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP You won’t find too many state parks (or strangely-named parks) quite like the HaHa Tonka State Park. Located on the Lake of the Ozarks, it features 15 miles of picturesque trails leading visitors to a number of natural caves, bridges and sinkholes. The highlight of the trip, of course, are the ruins of an honest-to-goodness castle, or really a mansion built to look like a European castle from the 1500s, that was constructed by Kansas City businessman Robert Snyder in the early 1900s. By the way, “haha tonka” means “laughing waters.” FILLING UP Bentley’s (3100 Bagnell Dam Boulevard), in which the dining room looks like an upscale British pub and its name taken from the famed British automobile, is a family-owned restaurant that opened in 1974. Its famed dishes center around the delicious roast prime rib beef, but there are also poultry, seafood and steak dishes. Stewart’s Restaurant (1151 Bagnell Dam Boulevard) is one of the city’s oldest restaurants, first opened in 1953, where people have flocked for its famous breakfast platters, crispy fried chicken, country-fried steak and, of course, their large cinnamon rolls. SLEEP TIGHT The Lake of the Ozarks is home to not one, not two, but three full-service resorts. There is the Lodge of the Four Season (the oldest of the three, and includes beautiful Japanese gardens), Camden on the Lake (the newest, and is home to live music at H. Toads Bar & Grill), as well as the family-friendly, and kid-friendly, Tan-Tar-A. The latter, truly, is a city unto itself. There is a beach, a marina, a bowling alley, arcade, golf, horse-riding stables as well as Timber Falls, an indoor water park featuring 600 feet of water slides and a lazy tube river. Families who flock here rarely are forced to leave the resort.

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Cotten & Son Heating & Air

573-216-9536 Eldon, MO 65026 Serving the Osage Beach Area

Social Events

Picnics were the No. 1 social events for Ozark residents from the 1880s through the first decade of the 1900s. Fresh foods, fruits and vegetables were eaten, along with gallons of sweetened lemonade, a favorite drink in this area (No, not moonshine!). Prizes were handed out during community picnics to make the events fun. Many times the prize categories were intentionally goofy. For example, during a community picnic in 1892 in the city of Ash Grove, which is located northwest of Springfield, as recorded in the book, “Ozark Baptizings, Hangings and Other Diversions” by Robert K. Gilmore, the following were the contests and their prizes:

In the town of Galena, Missouri, prizes were handed out for the largest number of people riding in one wagon (13 people); the woman with the most children (eight children) who won 25 pounds of flour; and to the man with the largest feet (no measurements given, sadly). Those in the community of Ozark, Missouri handed out prizes to the man with the baldest head, the man with the tallest family and the man with the longest beard.

• Oldest married couple - $5 cash • Largest family - $5 cash • Oldest man - A rocking chair worth $2.50 • Oldest woman - Fine dress pattern worth $4 • Ugliest man - A half-dozen photographs of himself • Prettiest lady - A half-dozen photographs of herself • Laziest man - An umbrella worth $1 • Prettiest baby - $2.50 gold piece • Largest married couple - $5 cash • Couple getting married on stand - $5 cash • Farmer with greatest wheat haul - $2.50 cash • Farmer who raised smallest wheat haul - $1.50 cash

MAY 2015 | JMAG

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ON LOCATION POPULATION: 26,461 PEOPLE MILES FROM JOPLIN: 53 MILES (1 HOUR, 8 MINUTES)

WHO KNEW?

More than 500 miles of roads wind up and down hills and through forests in Bella Vista. Overall, the city covers an astounding 66 square miles (36,000 acres) of real estate.

BELLA VISTA, AR A UNIQUE NOTE: Bella Vista was a summer resort town that’s evolved into one of the most sought-after retirement communities in the Midwest, seeing a 60 percent growth between 2000 and 2010. The city hosts seven golf courses (117 holes of golf ), seven private lakes, four clubhouses, three swimming pools and playgrounds, tennis courts and walking trails. ‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’: Not very many communities can boast of seven lakes. The largest lakes are Lake Ann, Lake Windsor and Lake Loch Lomond, with Lake Ann designated as the city’s “all-water sports” lake. Lakes designated for fishing are Lake Avalon, Lake Norwood and Lake Rayburn. Lake Brittany is one of the smallest of the seven lakes. Remember, only Bella Vista residents and their guests can “use” the lakes. ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP: If you’ve ever visited the Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs, Arkansas, then you have to see Bella Vista’s similar-shaped structure. Designed by E. Fay Jones and built in 1988, and recalling memories of Frank Loyd Wright’s type of architecture, the Mildred B. Cooper Memorial Chapel is comprised of steel and glass in a series of Gothic arches that run the chapel’s length. FILLING UP: El Pueblito restaurant (Highway 279 and Lancashire) is a family-owned and operated Mexican restaurant, with a wide selection of Tex-Mex and seafood dishes whose prices are very reasonable. The owners make it a point to step out and speak with each of their customers. Duffer’s Cafe (638 W. Lancashire Blvd.) is your typical small-town cafe with great staff and service, and a unique ordering process where you take a tray and hoist a flag when you’re ready to order. The Green Bean (5208 Village Parkway Suite 11) in nearby Rogers, offers organic soups, salads and sandwiches — the mushroom soup is a must-try. SLEEP TIGHT: Located on Loch Lomond Lake, the largest of the city’s seven lakes, you might want to spend a night or two at Cedar Lodge. This magnificent structure is the perfect venue for a peaceful getaway, a family reunion or a business retreat. The 7,600-squarefoot lodge offers seven bedrooms, which can accommodate 20 people. Delicious, healthy and nutritious meals can be prepared by the Lodge’s trained chef without having to do a thing or go anywhere. The Inn at Bella Vista is a 9,000-square-foot rock, glass and cedar building designed by E. Faye Jones (Mildred B. Cooper Memorial Chapel) that’s situated on 14 acres of gardens and trees overlooking Lake Rayburn. There are five rooms available: The Blue, Ivy, Rose, Sequoyah and the Master Suite. The Inn is just a 10-minute drive from two of Bella Vista’s best golf courses.

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Walk through the amazing history of this company and even purchase limited edition collection airguns available exclusively at the museum. Open Monday through Saturday 9:00am to 5:00pm 202 W. Walnut Rogers, AR 72756 (479) 986-6873 www.daisymuseum.com

The City is nestled in the beautiful tree covered hills of the Ozarks. Unique settings spaced throughout the hills allow for beautiful views and homes close to nature. The City ranks one of the highest in home ownership in the State of Arkansas as well as being one of the safest cities in the country. We are dedicated to providing the best support services to keep our community safe and clean. These services include building and code enforcement, street maintenance, library services, dog licensing, police, fire and EMS protection. We invite you to come for a visit and see for yourself …. IMAGINE the possibilities, IGNITE your creativity, FEEL the passion and LIVE THE DREAM in Bella Vista. Visit the City Website at: www.cityofbellavista.com for more information about our city and its’ services.

Who said we’re all about golf? Get out here and experience something amazing. (479) 855-5048 • www.bellavistapoa.com

HIKING • FISHING • KAYAKING • TENNIS • SWIMMING • GUN RANGE • BIKING • GOLF MAY 2015 | JMAG

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ON LOCATION OKLAHOMA’S “GATEWAY TO THE OZARK MOUNTAINS” POPULATION: 16,359 MILES FROM JOPLIN: 118 MILES (2 HOURS, 6 MINUTES)

TAHLEQUAH, OK A UNIQUE NOTE Tahlequah, located at the foothills of the Ozark Mountains, is the capital of the two federally-recognized Cherokee tribes, the modern Cherokee Nation and the United Keetoowah Band of Cherokee Indians. Because of this, nearly one-fourth of the city’s population speaks fluent Cherokee and the city’s street and business signs showcase both the English and Cherokee languages. serves as the male Seminary The Cherokee Fe University. The at St rtheastern e No of e ec pi er nt ce ace the original nstructed to repl building was co burnt to the e Seminary that Cherokee Femal nday, 1887. ground Easter Su

oor attraction, ost popular outd m y’s cit e th is r ity there — The Illinois Rive recreational activ t es gg bi e th is and floating rubber tube. kayak, canoe or whether it’s raft, You can’t go wrong with Vandalia’s, with its deli-variety of food options, ranging from excellent chili dogs to salad wraps, buildyour-own sandwiches and baked potatoes.

WHO KNEW? 34

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The City of Tahlequah is featured in the popular (and tear-inducing) children’s novel, “Where the Red Fern Grows,” by Wilson Rawls.

‘YOU GOTTA SEE THIS!’ Within Tahlequah sits another thriving community — Diligwa. Located on the grounds of the Cherokee Heritage Center (21192 S. Keeler Drive), Diligwa is a Cherokee Village that looks as if it’s been lifted from 1710 and brought forward to modern times. According to center officials, this recreated village is “the most authentic Cherokee experience in the world based on life in the early 1700s.” There are nearly 20 structures and 14 information stations located across four acres. ONE ‘CAN’T MISS’ STOP No trip to Tahlequah would be complete without a trip down the scenic Illinois River, which is known as Oklahoma’s best known scenic river. The river is the city’s most popular outdoor attraction, and floating is the biggest recreational activity there — whether it’s raft, kayak, canoe or rubber tube. Fishing is also popular on the river, with more than 72 species of fish swimming beneath the water’s tranquil surface. FILLING UP One of Tahlequah’s oldest eateries is Morgan’s Bakery (131 N. Muskogee), a familyowned bakery that opened in 1948. Some of the restaurant’s more popular items are the “Eiffel Tower” cookies, the “Tiger” cookies and sub sandwiches made on their own baked breads. For lunch, you can’t go wrong with Vandalia’s Cafe (319 N. Muskogee), with its deli-variety of food options, ranging from excellent chili dogs to salad wraps, build-your-own sandwiches and baked potatoes. For dinner, Sam & Ella’s Chicken Palace (419 N. Muskogee Ave.) is the place to visit. Despite the “chicken” in the title, this place is all about pizza. The pies are hand tossed with oversized crust and the chicken-theme décor inside is fun and clever. SLEEP TIGHT Talequah is home to most of the major hotel chains, but for more adventurous nights, check out the resorts along the Illinois River. Falcon Floats Resort, the “oasis” of the Illinois River, offers tents, bunkhouses or cabins for overnight stays, and amenities include a swimming pool with a sevenstory water slide, go karts and miniature golf at the nearby All American Floats.


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Fishing Wisdom Best locations to catch fish in area lakes, rivers and ponds By Keith Costley Photography by Keith Costley, T. Rob Brown and the Missouri Department of Conservation

It is absolutely mind-boggling to think of the immeasurable fishing opportunities the Ozarks provide. From ponds to rivers to lakes, we have it all. When it comes to the best summer fishing holes in the Ozarks, there is no better place to fish than a pond. For catching great numbers of largemouth bass, you just can’t beat the small waters of a pond, whether it be in the country or within the city limits. Since ponds are much smaller than rivers and lakes, the bass are more concentrated, easier to locate and relatively simple to catch. Your odds of catching a wall-hanger increase, as well. Pond fishing provides so much angling fun that it never gets old. Don’t think that this type of fishing is for kids only; it’s for people of all ages. The beauty of ponds is that the majority of them are under fished; they receive little pressure. That puts the angler in position 36

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to catch high numbers of uneducated bass. If I could only take one lure to catch bass in a pond, it would be, hands-down, a spinnerbait. If I were allowed to take only two baits, it would be a spinnerbait, along with a plastic worm. During the hot, steamy and humid months of July and August, you simply can’t go wrong using topwater baits, such as a plastic frog, jitterbug and a buzz bait. If you want to have a blast catching pond bass, try fishing with an ultra-light rod and spinning reel. The majority of bass you catch will feel like a lunker. A pond is a great place to introduce your children to the world of fishing. That’s how my dad got me started as a youngster. When I was 6 years old, my father, Ralph Costley, took my twin brother and I, our two sisters and a couple of their friends to a country pond during a sizzling July in the middle of the day. It could not have been a worse time to go fishing, let alone

catching fish. We were fishing for perch that day on a very crowded, old wooden dock. All of us were using a cane pole, four to six feet of fishing line, a split-shot sinker, bobber, hook and a nightcrawler. Even though we were not fishing during the primetime hours of the day, we were catching perch as fast as dad could bait the hooks. There was a lot of screaming and hollering going on; luckily, that didn’t scare the fish away. When we got home, dad told mom he was surprised we caught any fish at all. Little did he realize he created a lifetime memory for all of us to enjoy. From that day on, I fell in love with pond fishing. If you don’t have access to private ponds, then by all means don’t let that stop you. Go online to the Missouri Department of Conservation web site and seek out ponds within driving distance of your home. Don’t think for one minute that you can’t get into some good fishing because these


bodies of water are for public use. To put the odds in your favor, fish on week days. In many cases, you will have the ponds all to yourself. Next on my list for the best summer fishing holes in the Ozarks is rivers, such as Spring River, Shoal Creek and Center Creek in southwest Missouri. The sweltering months of July and August make for some excellent fishing. Cast a shallow-running crankbait into a shaded area near the bank. Next, retrieve the crankbait slowly in order to keep the lure in the strike zone for as long as possible. A great time to fish rivers during the hot summer months is during the middle of the day. Bass are usually congregated in the shaded areas of cooler water waiting patiently for their prey to pass by. Next on the list for the best summer fishing holes in the Ozarks are two reservoirs — Stockton Lake and Table Rock Lake. Stockton Lake, a 24,900-acre, manmade impoundment in Cedar, Dade and Polk counties in southwest Missouri, has hundreds of miles of excellent shoreline fishing. This reservoir is considered one of the best walleye fishing lakes, not only in the Ozarks, but throughout the entire Midwest. Walleye are stocked every year as fingerlings by the conservation department and normally grow to 15 inches in just two years. In hot summer heat, walleye are often caught in 15- to 20-feet of water, with nightcrawlers and minnows bounced off the bottom. Trolling deep-running or suspended crankbaits or casting these baits along the shoreline and main lake points can be effective as well. Largemouth bass fishing at this impoundment should also be good this summer. The class remaining from 2008 and 2009, both of which were extremely large-year classes, will provide good opportunities for trophy experiences. Crappie and white bass have the potential to be excellent this summer at Stockton Lake. The department says there has been an excellent production of gizzard shad the last few years. That means that all sports fish will be growing at a fast pace. The white crappie that spawned in 2011,

a large class of fish in department trapnetting data, will be ready this summer at Stockton Lake for harvest. The 2014 fishing for crappie was slow, therefore, anglers should be able to catch good numbers of white crappie greater than 11 inches this summer. Table Rock Lake, a 40,000-acre reservoir with 800 miles of shoreline in Southwest Missouri and Northern Arkansas, provides fishing that is second to none. The lake has a 15-inch length limit on black bass and is considered by many as one of the best bass fishing lakes in the

country. Like Stockton Lake, there’s plenty of quality walleye fishing opportunities. Some of the best fishing can be found in the James, Kings and White River arms of the lake along with fishing near the dam. From ponds to rivers to lakes, some of the best fishing in the U.S. can be found in the Ozarks. No doubt, one does not have to travel far to get into some fabulous fishing. So get out there with your family and have some angling fun.

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Missouri

Some dining gems hidden deep in Our Ozarks By Amanda Stone Photography by Willis Brown We’re fortunate there are many locallyowned restaurants in the Ozarks that are amazing. However, sometimes a spring road trip is in order and sustenance is necessary. Consider planning your next day trip around some of these must-visit eateries. Most are family owned and operated and some only take reservations or have specific days they are open. Be sure to call ahead to ensure your dining destination is a success.

Kansas An authentic Italian restaurant located in the small town of Scammon, Josie’s Ristorante (400 Main St. — 620.479.8202) is an institution. Make a day of it by stopping by there for dinner before or after visiting Big Brutus in West Mineral, Kansas. Remember, Josie’s is famous for their sauces and amazing ravioli. Southeast Kansas is known for its friend chicken. The long rivalry between Chicken Annie’s and Chicken Mary’s (1143 E. 600th Ave. and 1133 E. 600th Ave. — 620.231.9460 and 620.231.9510) was featured on the Travel Channel’s “Food Wars.” Conduct your own research, but you’ll find the food is similar and delicious at both places. Don’t miss the heaping basket of onion rings and German Cole slaw. Just north of Pittsburg in 38

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Frontenac is Barto’s Idle Hour Steak House and Lounge (201 Santa Fe St. — 620.232.9834) is another can’t-miss place for fried chicken dishes. Their lives and gizzards are also done right. Make sure to go on the weekend for live polka music and dancing in the bar.

It’s only appropriate the Ozarks is home to several restaurants located beneath authentic Ozark cliffs or caverns. Atmosphere doesn’t get much better than the Undercliff Grill and Bar (6385 Old Highway 71 — 417.623.8382). Enjoy a burger basket and a drink from their full bar while sitting on the patio or inside, truly under a cliff. The décor is eclectic and entertaining to check out while you wait. In Richland, Missouri, The Cave Restaurant and Resort (26880 Rochester Road — 573.765.4554) isn’t just a fancy name. It truly sits inside a cave. A shuttle takes you to the restaurant from the parking area. Check it out for the pulled pork and the rib eye, but mostly for the fun experience and the memories. Two other restaurants are famed for

Oklahoma Clanton’s Café in Vinita (319 E. Illinois — 918.256.9053), has been a family tradition since 1927. They’re located on Route 66 and famous for their chicken fried steak dishes. This restaurant was featured on Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” for good reason. South of Vinita in beautiful Tahlequah sits Sam & Ella’s Chicken Palace, (419 N. Muskogee Ave. — 918.456.1411). Don’t be fooled by the name of this unique restaurant. Pizza is the name of their game, but their meatball subs and arti-toast keep regulars coming back. The pies are hand tossed with oversized crust and the chickentheme décor inside is a fun and clever bonus.

All Aboard Ic

e Cream

their unique surroundings. Lucky J Steakhouse and Arena (11664 E. Fir Road — 417.358.2370) in Carthage is a one-of-a-kind steakhouse with a glass wall separating the bar area from a real and working arena. Enjoy steaks and a show with buddies or with your family — there is something for everyone. Check their thorough online calendar for events, some of which are held outside. Over in Miller, Missouri, you can dine inside an authentic airfield hanger. At the Hanger Kafe (3103 Lawrence 1070 — 417.452.2277), you’ll feel like you’re driving into the middle of nowhere, but then you’ll arrive at an


Hangar Kafe

airfield. Eat a hearty breakfast, pork tenderloin or chicken fried steak in the airplane hangar, or sit on the deck and watch the planes and skydivers fly in. For some unique ice cream options, All Aboard Ice Cream (102 Castle Drive — 417.434.2031) has been a Joplin tradition for decades for good reason. The recipe is handmade daily with only cream and flavors. The butter fat content is 14 percent as opposed to many ice creams that contain 4 percent, making it incredibly delicious. Now, the tradition continues inside a train car with the ice cream being made in the depot built next door. Over in nearby Carterville, a love for ice cream has been merged with a love for the Man of Steel. SuperTam on 66 Ice Cream Parlor (221 W. Main Street) is a superman museum, which houses the owner’s lifetime collection of superman memorabilia. It is incredible,

The Undercliff

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Soup & Sam

mies

truly a sight to behold. Go for the wall-towall memorabilia; the ice cream is a great bonus. For another type of sugary treat, check out Hurts Donut (301 Park Central W — 417.719.4119). Open 24/7, Hurts has the wackiest, yummiest donut concoctions around. Nutella, salted caramel, pizza, peanut butter cup, bacon and strawberry cheesecake are just the tip of the iceberg. Plan to get a box with one of everything available. Speaking of small Ozark towns like Carterville, there are a number of popular restaurants located in towns of less than 10,000 residents. Golden City and Stockton, two communities located around popular Stockton Lake, is home to three popular eateries. Stockton is home to The Squeeze Inn (400 Highway RB — 417.276.6302). Full of character (gnomes galore), the Squeeze Inn is famous for their cheese “skirts” on burgers. Cheese melts around the burger forming a crispy skirt of cheese. Tacos and homemade fries are customer favorites as well. Soup and Sammies (502 Main Street — 417.537.0099) is located inside an old bank in downtown Golden City; when you’re there, ask to see the vault, which they now use as a pantry. The pretzel bun breakfast sandwiches are 40

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incredible. Then pop right across the street and visit Cooky’s Cafe (519 S. Main — 417.537.4741) for one of their famous pies. It’s known for its great homecooking, with its baked ham dish being one of the most popular menu items. But it’s Cooky’s deserts, particularly its homemade pies, that has placed this restaurant on the “must-eat” list. A little bit of Germany can be found in north Webb City. Located in a horse barn, Roswitha’s Schnitzelbank (12167 MO-43 — 417.642.5343) is brimming with German ambiance. The food is authentic and delicious. Don’t miss Oktoberfest, where there is always a Polka band, dancing and plenty of German food and drinks. Over in Newton County, food is made to order and from scratch at The Diamond Café (101 W. Market Street — 417.325.7166), so making a reservation is recommended. The menu features Italian dishes as well as steaks, chicken, catfish and meatloaf. Homemade desserts like “the Carver bar” are not to be missed. An authentic French restaurant in Fordland, La Galette Berrichonne (143 West Main Street — 417.738.2112) is a

Table Mesa

gem to be treasured. Call for reservations for a seven-course dinner, which takes an hour-and-a-half to serve. Bring your own wine; they will supply the glasses. French cooking classes are taught on Saturday mornings. Call for reservations. The city of Mt. Vernon, located halfway between Springfield and Joplin, is home to several popular and can’t-miss restaurants. The first, Keen Bean Coffee Roasters (1031 S. Market Street — 417.461.7101) is an out-of-the way coffee shop where they really know their way around the bean. Plus, they have a full menu of delicious sandwiches, wraps and soups. They roast their own beans, which you can pre-order and have available at Springfield’s Farmers Market of the Ozarks where they go with their mobile Bean Machine. Inside the nearby Red Barn Café and Hen House Bakery (107 W. Mt. Vernon Blvd. — 417.466.4650), the aroma of the smoker and baking bread alone are enough reason to visit. Portions of home cooking are huge; take home half, because missing out on dessert would be foolish. The cinnamon rolls are as big as a dinner plate. Down south in Monett, The Bayou (864 US-60 — 417.235.7800) is a much shorter drive for authentic Cajun food than driving to New Orleans. And it’s just as delicious. The menu is full of authentic Cajun food and other dishes for the less adventurous. Try the muffaletta, the crawfish etoufee and the weekend shrimp boils. Nestled


scenery is rustic and relaxing and the experience is worth calling for reservations. If you want to dine with a view, check out Dock-N-Eat Café (26111 Big M Campground — 417.271.3883). This is a floating café with a screened-in porch and plenty of seating. There’s dock parking for boats if you never want to leave the water. Great burgers, huge menu of appetizers and plenty of on-the-water atmosphere in beautiful Cassville. Baxter’s Lakeside Grill (2124 Bagnell Dam Blvd. — 573.365.2669) offers upscale dining on the Lake of the Ozarks and is prized by locals as a special treat, and a mainstay for tourists. The view is breathtaking, the food is as good as the view while remaining consistent and the service is excellent. Steaks, cedar plank salmon and the crab cakes are customer favorites. At LakeSide Café at Ozark Yacht Club (500 Mud Street Cafe

near the Arkansas border in northern Noel is Cotton Eyed Joe’s Barbeque (Missouri Highway 90 — 417.475.3742), an area favorite with excellent barbecue with a great selection of meats, sides and desserts in a comfy atmosphere with “country charm.” Papouli’s (725 MO-248 — 417.272.8243) has been giving Greek flair to this area for over 30 years, but it’s a well-kept secret. Locals and travelers flock to this restaurant for the prime rib, dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) and souvlaki (skewered, grilled meat). Order the flaming cheese; it is always a crowd pleaser. Heading north to Nevada, The Gobbler’s Roost (24327 E. Oldtown Road — 417.465.2255) specializes in steak in a beautiful, fun, yet elegant atmosphere. The five-course meal is homemade, the

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ter Tusk and Trot

Yacht Club Landing Dr. — 573.552.8401), boat-side service is offered at this Osage Beach institution, along with patio seating with a beautiful view. Food is served all day, but breakfast is very popular. Try the Jacked-Up Rib Salad or the Crabby Onion Omelet and a Sunrise Mimosa. Also located in Osage Beach is On the Rise Bakery and Woodfired Bistro (5439 Osage Beach Parkway — 573.348.4224). This is a brunch favorite of visitors to the Lake of the Ozarks. Their impressive menu is loaded with breakfast and lunch options accompanied by handcrafted pastries and flatbreads. Their beverage menu is just as impressive with high quality coffee and unique drink combinations. For the foodies in the family, there is a retail shop with hard-to-find kitchen tools and foods from around the globe.

Arkansas Great service, outdoor ambiance and gooey, warm crepes make this food truck — Crepes Paulette (213 NE A Street) — a must-visit. If you make a day of taking in Crystal Bridges and downtown Bentonville (both a short walk away), 42

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you can have crepes more than once. The Reuben, The Elvis and an iced coffee are perfection on a summer day. The Tusk & Trotter American Brasserie (110 SE A Street — 479.268.4494), located a block off “The Square” in downtown Bentonville, offers an extensive menu featuring local produce which shifts seasonally for the freshest ingredients. Table Mesa Bistro (108 E. Central Ave. — 479.715.6706) in Bentonville is an upscale spot offering a modern take on Latin cuisine in a stylish setting with exposed-brick walls. Located north of Bentonville in Washington County, the architecture of the building housing Hog Haus Brewing Company (430 W. Dickson St. — 479.521.2739) is gorgeous, with views of the brewery from both floors. The beer cheese dip and the fish and chips are favorites. Nestled in a ravine between two Ozark Mountains, Eureka Springs is home to several must-stop restaurants. The original Flying Burrito (540 W. Dickson Street — 479.521.3000) opened 10 years ago inside a refurbished warehouse just off Fayetteville’s Dickson Street. Five more stores in four Arkansas cities have opened, but they still offer the best, freshest ingredients in every

burrito, taco or quesadilla. Mud Street Cafe (22 S. Main Street — 479.253.6732) is located in what the Eureka Springs locals call “underground Eureka.” The building they’re housed in was built in 1888, and the centerpiece of the dining room is a century oak bar with beveled mirrors. Try a two-egg Mexican omelet served with hash browns or garlic cheeses grits for breakfast or a grilled boneless and skinless honey mustard chicken breast sandwich and Organic Costa Rican coffee for lunch. The Oasis (53 Spring St. — 479.253.0886) is a gem and a favorite of locals; a bit hard to find, but worth the search. Their fresh, unique combinations are described as Ark-Mex. Green salsa is a customer favorite, but the menu is packed with delicious vegetarian options. Local Flavor Cafe (71 S. Main St. — 479.253.9522) offers fresh, creative dishes, great sangria and a beautiful patio that make this café a customer favorite. Local art and vintage décor make for great browsing inside. Huge portions of eggplant Parmesan and Sunday Brunch make it worth the trip.


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Some lodging gems hidden deep in Our Ozarks By Bobbie Pottorff

Getting’ away from it all. The Ozarks is not only one of the most beautiful places in the country to live, but it also has some of the most beautiful lakes and rivers and there are many places to spend your vacation. Whether you are on your honeymoon, traveling with your family, planning a family reunion or just want to spend a weekend alone with your sweetheart there is a place within driving distance that won’t break the bank if you’re on a budget. However, if price is no issue and luxury is what you’re looking for, there are also very high-end resorts available for the choosing.

Oklahoma Dream Catcher Point (809 Ackerman Road — 918.808.1591), located at the edge of beautiful Grand Lake in Eucha, focuses on creating an experience you will never forget. The resort is breathtaking in its simplistic and natural ways, and is surrounded by radiant waters, flowers and a perfectly manicured

Dream Catcher

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Point

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property. It is the perfect setting for your wedding, party, or even a company retreat when an office setting or hotel conference room just doesn’t have that inspiration you need. In Grove, the Candlewyck Cove Resort (59800 East 307 Lane — 918.786.3636), has an accommodation for every need. Whether it’s a getaway vacation house for the family, a secluded cabin or a hotel suite, the Candlewyck provides it all. As an added bonus, the surrounding Grand Lake provides breathtaking views and offers a number of recreational activities, from boating to floating to skiing to simple relaxation on the sandy edge of the waters.

Arkansas The Dickson Street Inn (301 W. Dickson Street — 479.695.2100) is a remodeled, historic Victorian home built in 1894. It is located in the center of Fayetteville’s entertainment district and within walking distance of the city’s downtown attractions and important destinations, such as the Walton Arts Center. The Dickson Street Inn was remodeled to preserve its historic charm while adding the modern comforts people need

and want today, such as guest rooms and concierge service. Think of it as a “home away from home.” Probably more than any other Arkansas community, Eureka Springs, nestled in the heart of the Arkansas Ozark Mountains, is known for its variety of lodging options. The 66 Center Inn Bed and Breakfast (66 Center Street — 479.981.0991) is located, like so many places, in the heart of the historic downtown district. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places as the original Homestead of the 1886 Perkins Mill. There is a Pottery Barn feel with fine linens, comfortable beds and a relaxing environment. This quaint inn has

Calico Bluff Vacation Cab

ins

plenty to offer in the way of romance and charm and it blends the great atmosphere of Eureka Springs with the comforts of home, but without all the work. Another popular hotel located in the heart of Eureka Springs is the Basin Park Hotel (12 Spring Street — 479.253.7837). This 1905 boutique hotel’s rugged limestone building sits next to the historic Basin Spring and more than 100 restored Victorian shops, restaurants and art galleries that line the city’s downtown area. This fullservice hotel offers the popular Balcony Bar and Restaurant overlooking the downtown area, the Serenity Spa and free downtown parking and complimentary shuttle service. The hotel offers all types of comfortable rooms and the popular Jacuzzi rooms are “suite,” according to the hotel’s official Web site. Built in 1886, the Crescent Hotel (75 Prospect Ave. — 855.725.5720) is a member of Historic Hotels of America, the official program


Dickson Street

of the National Trust for Historic Preservation. It is one of the most popular sites in the area for weddings and for ghost hunting groups. Yes, the hotel has been called “America’s Most Haunted Hotel” and is said to be actively haunted by at least eight spirits. It offers 76 rooms including luxury suites and cottages, hot tub and swimming pool, a full-service spa and salon and several restaurants, including the 1886 Steakhouse and the Sky Bar Gourmet Pizza with a patio overlooking the countryside. Even better, the hotel is pet friendly! Calico Bluff Vacation Cabins in Calico Rock, Arkansas (521 Rowden — 870.373.0173) offer all things beautiful and wondrous to the outdoor lovers of the world. These cabins can sleep anywhere from four to twenty people and they are equipped with heat and air, full kitchens and outdoor grilling. The beauty of the Calico Bluff area, which was named because of the Calico patterned rocks, is enhanced by the best trout fishing on Arkansas’ White River, kayaking, horseback riding, cave exploration and much more.

robes. Even better, it is located near the home of Laura Ingalls Wilder of “Little House on the Prairie” fame. Located in nearby Rogersville, the Blackberry Creek Retreat Bed and Breakfast (5086 State Hwy KK — 417.859.7466) is one of those little gems created out of the love and enjoyment of hosting others. Mark and Dixie Dawson started Blackberry Retreat in 2007, after friends told them they had a “gift for hospitality.” This bed and breakfast, surrounded by 40 acres of beautiful wooded land and pastures, hosts weddings, small groups and romantic getaways. The Weaver Inn Bed and Breakfast (100 East Park Square — 417.924.2600) in Mansfield was built in the 1800s, and most recently was renovated and reopened in 2009. The rooms are decorated in early American style and, because Mansfield is a railroad town, visitors can still expect to be lulled to sleep with the sound of the passing

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Missouri Located southeast of Springfield, The Foxtrot Inn (1107 NW 3rd Street — 417.683.3606) provides luxury accommodations for the adult-only crowd. It is a horse lover’s paradise built in the 1940s, and renovated to provide all the modern comforts needed today. The Foxtrot has themed rooms and delivers special services like late night chocolate treats and individual monogrammed

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River of Life

trains. Even better, the rooms are named after characters from the novel, “Little House on the Prairie” books written by Laura Ingalls Wilder. This quaint B&B is perfect for couples, small groups and small families. Further down near the Missouri/ Arkansas border in Ava, the Tree House Cabins at the River of Life Farms (RR. 1 — 417.261.7777) is one of the coolest places you could spend your vacation in the Ozarks. The Tree Houses Cabins are set high up in the trees, giving you a bird’s eye view of the beautiful North Fork River and the gorgeous surrounding landscape. These cabins can hold small groups for wedding parties or family vacations. The Branson area is home to more than 38,000 lodging rooms, so there are plenty of places to choose from in Missouri’s top tourist destination spot. Deer Valley Lodge (Indian Point Road

46

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— 913.206.1620), located at Indian Point Road, boasts six master suites. This means six bedrooms and six bathrooms. When you are vacationing with large groups, there is almost nothing more important than having a private bathroom. The Deer Valley Lodge offers a gorgeous view of the Ozarks, and is right in the middle of everything that is happening in Branson. Cliffs Resort on Table Rock Lake (15 Stone Cliff Circle — 417.337.5447) is one of those stunningly beautiful places that you know can only exist in the Ozarks. It has panoramic lake and mountain views, access to Table Rock Lake or, if you prefer a swimming pool, it has a zero edge infinity pool. All the rooms have full kitchens, private bathrooms and are very roomy. It is often called a “world within a world.” The “Castle in the Ozarks,” the Chateau On the Lake (415 North State Highway 265 — 417.334.1161) is a resort, spa and convention center. The focus is on comfort, and the elegance and unabashed luxury can been seen in every detail, right down to the view of beautiful Table Rock Lake. Special room rates and travel packages are available for couples, small groups and families, including a Silver Dollar City package, which

Chateau on the Lake

lies nearby. In nearby Ridgedale is the D’Monaco Villas (4125 State Highway 86 — 888.336.6622) and is a luxury you would never expect to experience in the hills of the Ozarks. The spacious and elegantly-furnished villas have private verandahs overlooking Table Rock Lake. They offer the services of a personal shopper to stock the private kitchen with whatever you desire. Stonewater Cove (1257 Sunset Timers Trail — 800.792.3956) in nearby Shell Knob is comfortably situated on the shores of Table Rock Lake in a remote location and surrounded by the Mark Twain National Forest. This glorious resort is suited for the avid outdoors person or those who want to spend time indoors and be pampered with the luxury of the best spa treatments available.

Blackberry Cree

k


Moving north to the beautiful Lake of the Ozarks, Edgewater Estate (2610 Arrowhead Estate Road — 636.695.5750) is a work of art built into the bluffs of Lake of the Ozarks. The home’s design was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright’s “Fallingwater” home, and was the creation of architect Martin Henigman. Photos of this beautiful place are amazing. Just imagine what memories you and your family or friends could create by vacationing in such a gorgeous place. Located at the very northern tip of the lake, Crystal Water Villas (31683 Pistol Point Loop — 866.273.2169) in Gravois Mills is one of the most exclusive lake property management companies available in the Lake of the Ozark’s region. If you’re looking for a vacation spot for water sports, sun, food and fun, and you want to stay close to home, Lake of the Ozarks is a great destination. Crystal Water Villas rental packages are nothing shy of excellent and luxurious. You have golf, helicopter tours, wine tasting at area wineries, cave tours, horseback riding and much more. Crystal Wat

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Some recreational gems hidden deep in Our Ozarks By Michael Coonrod

1984 Arcade

Our Ozark region is a special place. Many of our ancestors settled this area because it reminded them of home. Others came here because they found the land perfect for raising crops or livestock. Our forebears might not recognize parts of the area today, but they would still be enchanted by its many diverse offerings. This time of year is about getting outdoors and enjoying different activities. After this past winter, more than a few will be heading straight for the links. Top of the Rock, the area’s newest golf destination will put you on the fairways, but offers more than just a round of driving, chipping, and putting. Guests can experience a 2.5-mile tour of the Lost Canyon Nature Trail with scenic views of waterfalls, rock formations and Table Rock Lake. There’s also the Ancient Ozarks Natural History Museum where you can view a woolly mammoth and other creatures that were here long 48

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before the European settlers. If you’re more into guns than golf, stop by Ozark Shooter’s Sports Complex just 11 miles north of Branson. They have ranges for trap and skeet as well as pistol and rifle ranges. They host various shooting competitions, gun shows and even offer training if you’re new to firearms. If you don’t feel like pulling a trigger yourself, you can watch the competitive shoots, attend one of their charity fundraisers, or check out their

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monthly Cowboy Shoot. This is a newer competition where contestants pick a western wardrobe and moniker and try to shoot the fastest time while exhibiting cowboy cool and swagger. Baseball is a passion for some and an addiction for others. If the fantasy leagues aren’t enough, Springfield’s Hammon’s Field can give you big league entertainment without having to invest major league travel time and money. The Springfield Cardinals offer a look at the potential MLB players as well as hosting some of your favorite St. Louis stars on select dates. Add in one of the nicest AA stadiums in the country, between inning games for the kids, and maybe a few pleasant surprises at the concession stand, and you’ve got an entertainment-packed evening for any baseball fan. It’s also time to put out that garden to enjoy the bounty of flowers, fruits and vegetables that we enjoy in the warmer months. If you have a hankering of the heirloom variety, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds may be the place to look. The company offers more than 1,700 varieties of heirloom herbs, vegetables, and flowers: the largest selection in this country. Baker Creek sends out half a million catalogs each year. They also have a Pioneer village and seed farm open for visits during the week. Visitors can see the seed store, be serenaded in two music barns, and check out the herbal apothecary or natural bakery.


Crystal Bridges

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Springfield Ca

Murphy’s Orchard in Marionville is another place to enjoy the season’s bounty. Family-owned for more than 30 years, they grow apples, peaches, and more in their own groves. They also keep a supply of honey, fruit spreads and preserves on hand. Don’t forget to try the apple cider slush. Farmers’ Market of the Ozarks in Springfield is one of the leaders in the area’s farm to table culture. From fresh meats to breads to produce, they have it all in one location. Expect to find locally-produced cheese, gulf seafood, and even local crafts. You might also be surprised at the number and variety of food vendors on site. Keeping the kids occupied outside of their favorite game system can be a challenge this time of year. But you can take them to 1984 in downtown Springfield where they can play old-school arcade games. $5 at the door gets you in and free-play on all the

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National

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nctu Tiger Sa

video games. You do have to pay to play the pinball machines, so bring your spare quarters. Or you can hang out and read their collection of 1980s-era magazines. If you want the kids to experience something new, take them to the farm. Rutledge-Wilson Farm Park in West

Springfield was created to educate and celebrate the area’s agricultural past. Visitors can see Dottie, the Holstein cow, check out demonstration crops or walk the mile-long paved walking trail. They even have a farm-themed playground. The Discovery Center in the heart of Springfield has something that will amaze and inspire your youngster. There are eight weeks of summer workshops, outreach

programs, and even distance-learning. The interactive museum will let kids explore a variety of sciences and hands-on learning. They can explore a giant eyeball, dig for dinosaurs, oh, and they can ride the HighWire Bike suspended in mid-air. You can even rent space for parties and events. With hot weather in the coming forecast, you might consider some thrills and chills for your entertainment. Just a few miles away sits the aweinspiring Thorncrown Chapel in Eureka Springs. It’s a magnificent wooden structure containing 425 windows and more than 6,000 square feet of glass. Sitting atop 100 tons of stone, and surrounded by a woodland setting, it blends in perfectly with its setting. It has often been said it is “one of the finest religious spaces of modern times.” Heading west across The Natural State sits one of the premiere art galleries found anywhere in the Midwest. Located just off downtown Bentonville, Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art is the first major art museum to open in the United States since 1974. A notable work is a portrait of George Washington by Charles

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I have people tell me what they’ve spent playing one round at Pebble Beach and a night at the hotel, or going to Pinehurst for a couple rounds. We do the entire week, travel, hotel, green fees, good meals and everything for the price of one day at these places. And it’s absolutely a sensational place to come. TO PLAN YOUR VISIT to Alabama’s Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail, visit rtjresorts.com or call 1.800.949.4444 today. facebook.com/rtjgolf twitter.com/rtjgolf

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Pythian Castle

Willson Peale. Enjoy lunch at the “Eleven” restaurant inside the Pavilion overlooking a beautiful body of water. Pythian Castle in Springfield has served a variety of purposes in its 101 year existence. Originally an orphanage, it was used as an enlisted men’s club in World War II and housed German POWs. The castle has been featured in several books and TV programs about the paranormal. Ghost and history tours are done almost every day and there is a book in the lobby listing dates of death for former residents. Other activities such as murder mysteries and holiday events are available. Wild Animal Safari in Strafford offers you a chance to see Zebra, camels, and even Bison from the comfort of your own vehicle. Get face to face with tigers, elk, or hyenas as you drive through the five mile, 250-plus acre park. You can feed an alpaca, zedonk or wallaby from inside their tour bus. A walking path lets you see, feed, and pet more animals. The National Tiger Sanctuary in Chestnutridge, Missouri. was established in 2000 to create a safe, protected environment for big cats, many of whom were rescued or confiscated from previous owners. Created with private funds, NTS is inspected by the USDA and the Missouri Department of Conservation. They also provide interns from all over the world an opportunity to study. Tours are held Wednesday through Sunday four times a

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day, the first at 10 a.m. and the last at 4 p.m. At The Butterfly Palace and Rainforest Adventure, you can stroll through a 7,000-square-foot garden filled with more than 1,000 tropical butterflies. Located at the west end of Branson’s Highway 76 strip, this attraction will educate with an immersive experience. You Rutledge-Wils on Farm Park can view videos about butterflies, then see them in flitting through the gardens. There’s also a Mirror Maze and The Living Rainforest Science Center. Hours of operation are from 9 a.m. until 5 p.m. daily. If you need to escape the modern world for a while, there are several options for that as well. The John B. Mahaffey Museum Complex at Fort Leonard Wood offers a look into the lives of our soldiers over the last


century. The Chemical Corps has been protecting soldiers since 1918. Their museum spans 9,000 square feet and houses 6,500 artifacts from WWI to the present. The Military Police Museum houses displays, dioramas and a Hall of fame honoring the sacrifices of MP soldiers. The Ozark Folk Center in Mountain View, Ark. Offers workshops in herb gardening, pioneer crafts, and American folk music. You can learn to make pottery, build a mandolin, or try you hand at blacksmithing. There are also cabins to rent and a number of feature concerts through September. And finally, as we wrap up our tour of the Ozarks, no trip would be complete without a stop at the Baker Creek College of the Ozarks, best known by the moniker of “Hard Work U,� since students pay no tuition and works at a job on campus to defray costs. items ranging from antiques and firearms The campus, at Hollister, Mo. is home to Edwards Mill, where students grind whole- to fine arts and mineralogy. Visitors can watch students produce fruitcakes and grain meal and flour. The Ralph Foster jellies that are available for sale. museum holds thousands of historical

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Get

Outside There are many activities you can do to enjoy and experience the outdoors. From the extreme to the leisurely, there is something for all ages right here in Joplin. PHOTOGRAPHY | MITZI STARKWEATHER PHOTOGRAPHY 54

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Fishing at Wildcat Glades Conservation and Audubon Center Ty wears Under Armour Iso-Chill Cooling Technology Shirt with UPF Protection, $56.99; Under Armour Heat Gear Loose Fit Shorts with UPF Protection, $49.99; Under Armour All Season Gear Snap Back Hat, $23.99; The Original Muck Boot Company Camo Camp Boot, $119; Shakespeare Spincast Combo rod-and-reel, $21.99. All from John’s Sport Center in Pittsburg, Kansas.

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Dog Walking at Frisco Greenway Trail Jordan walks Lily, an Australian Shepherd mix, on the Frisco Greenway Trail in Joplin, Missouri

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Fishing at Wildcat Glades Conservation and Audubon Center Kennedy wears a Columbia East Ridge Long Sleeve Shirt with Omni-Shade Sun Protection, $36.99; Columbia Wrangler Mountain Fishing Hat, $14.99; Justin Ladies Waterproof Boot, $116; Zebco The New Ladies 33 fishing pole, $39.99. All from John’s Sport Center in Pittsburg, Kansas.

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Hiking at Wildcat Glades Conservation and Audubon Center

Jeff wears Columbia Omni-Shield Sun Protection button-up, $39.99; Columbia Modern Classic Shorts, $24.99; Outdoor Products Mist 8.0 2L Hydration Pack, $29.99. Kennedy wears Under Armour Heat Gear shirt with UPF Protection, $39.99; Under Armour Fitted Pants, $49.99; Under Armour All Season Gear Fitted Jacket, $49.99; Columbia W Silver Ridge Ball Cap with Omni-Shield Advanced Repellency, $22.99; Merrell Terran Lattice sandal, $69.99; Stanley Classic One Hand Vacuum Mug, $28.99.Ty wears Under Armour Heat Gear plaid button-up with UPF Protection, $59.99; Columbia Modern Classic Shorts, $24.99; Danner Radical 452 Hiking Boot, $142. All from John’s Sport Center in Pittsburg, Kansas.

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Kayaking at Wildcat Glades Conservation and Audubon Center Ty, Jeff and Kennedy kayak at Wildcat Glades Conservation and Audubon Center in Joplin, Missouri with kayaks and gear from Extreme Sports Scuba in Joplin, Missouri. 60

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Mountain Biking at Frisco Greenway Trail Josh wears a Bontrager Rally Helmet, $119.99; Bontrager Race Short Sleeve Jersey, $66.99; Bontrager Solstice Short, $53.99; and rides a Trek Marlin 5 bike, $499.99. Gabby wears a Bontrager Quantum Women’s Helmet, $64.99; Bellwether Criterium Jersey, $63.99; Bontrager Solstice WSD Short, $53.99; and rides a Trek Marlin 5 bike, $499.99. Jesus wears a Bell Piston helmet, $49.99; Bontrager Race Short Sleeve Jersey, $66.99; Bontrager Race Short, $77.99; and rides a Giant Anthem 3 bike, $2,175. All from Bicycle Specialists in Joplin, Missouri.

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J List: Local outdoor Ozark getaways

The

1

The thundering beauty of Grand Falls is the largest, continuously flowing natural waterfall in Missouri.

2

The second Redings Mill Bridge, which spans Shoal Creek, considered at the time a marvel of design, is today a part of the Audubon Center walking trail system.

3

The George Washington Carver National Monument was founded in 1943, and was the first national monument dedicated to a black American and first to a non-U.S. President.

4

Beautiful Spring River, which runs by Kellogg Lake in Carthage, runs along a portion of the original Route 66 pavement and also features one of the largest outdoor classrooms in the region.

5

Located south of Joplin, Walter Wood Conservation Area, is one of the most relaxed, natural spots found anywhere in the area.

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Parting

Shot

A Devil’s Sunrise Photography by Casey Crocker The rising sun peeks through a camp site enclosure deep in the heart of the Devil’s Den State Park in Northwest Arkansas.

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