Mud & Magnolias June 2020 by Journal Inc

Mud&Magnolias October. November 2013 June 2020

FOOD + DRINK Food Trucks • Sherin Sauce • Spritzer Bar • Southern Recipes • Coca-Cola Murals

CONTENTS

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RECIPES

Since this is the food issue, we decided to make some classics and whip up a Southern spread – a table chock-full of southern favorites and comfort foods. We also included some lighter, summery dishes, too.

FOOD TRUCKS

Food trucks provide great flavor with a quick wait time, and we wanted to hear the inspiration behind the trucks and the dishes. We spoke to a few food truck owners in the area – and while not a definitive list by any means – this is what they had to say.

BUILT TO ENTERTAIN

Ben and Chrystal Coleman started dating in high school 25 years ago and have been together ever since. Twenty years of marriage and four kids later, they built their dream home in New Albany.

ALSO:

COCA -COLA

What’s our Southern culture if we leave out Mississippi’s ties with Coca-Cola? We found Coca-Cola murals and signage in the northeast region, and we threw in some Coke recipes, too.

WHEN FOOD FEEDS THE SOUL

June 2020

Why do we love food so much, and what makes it so comforting? Read this column about the cultural importance of food.

ON THE COVER Scallop salad with a cilantro-lime dressing.

SHERIN SAUCE

This couple went from bottling for friends and family to a full-blown production of Sherin Sauce – an “on-everything” type of condiment.

Check out this month’s DIY at mudandmag.com.

SUMMER RECIPES

SPRITZER BAR

FRUIT & HERB PAIRINGS

DIY KITCHEN TOWELS

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ood can etch a memory into your heart.

My grandmother, who we affectionately called Umah, was an amazing cook. She could make just about anything taste good, but my favorite food of hers was macaroni and cheese. It was gooey, cheesy goodness. She always made it for me during the holidays. I think the reason everything she made was so delicious was because she put a little love in all of her recipes. I tried to learn from her on a few occasions, but she never knew exact measurements. She went by how it looked, and that was a strange concept for me to grasp onto at the time. Nowadays when I am longing for something similar to what my Umah fixed, I head for Ajax on the Oxford Square. One of my friends and I have a standing weekly lunch there. After all these years, I still look forward to my meat and three. I think Randy and the staff at Ajax put a little love in their recipes, too. All the recipes we feature this month (page 20) are Southern staples, made with love that you can enjoy with your family. I can’t wait to try the mac ‘n cheese casserole to see how to compares to my Umah’s recipe. To get you in the mood for sunshine and summertime, we also included some summer recipes (page 24) and a refreshing spritzer bar (page 29). They are perfectly refreshing for the upcoming heat. For even more about food, The Daily Journal and Mud & Magnolias have teamed up to bring you new food content each week on our Facebook page, Food for Thought. Check it out.

1242 S Green St. Tupelo, MS 38804 662.842.2611

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sarah Brooke Bishop

ASSOCIATE EDITORS Lindsay Pace Kristina Domitrovich Robyn Jackson

FEATURED SALES CONSULTANTS Leigh Knox June Phillips Nick Boone Angie Quarles Tyler Vuncannon Teresa McDonald Shelley Ozbirn

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Ginna Parsons

Find this symbol throughout the issue to learn what everyone’s favorite comfort food is!

subscriptions@mudandmag.com advertising@mudandmag.com info@mudandmag.com mudandmag.com This magazine is a monthly publication of Journal, Inc.

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RECIPES

Come on in, y’all, and grab a plate Few things are more comforting than a big bowl of pasta – and we wanted to bring that comfort to your kitchen. We took some creative liberties on classic flavors to make a special twist: like Tiramisu Crepes, Pesto Chicken Salad and One-Pan Italian Sausage Stir Fry. But some things, like the Bruschetta, should never be changed. Mangiamo – let’s eat!

Food just hits a little differently in the South – there’s no way around it. For this issue, we wanted to stick to the staples: staples found on a Southern table.

Spiked Sweet Tea recipe on pg. 22

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RECIPES

Sweet â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Cheesey Cornbread Muffins recipe on pg. 22

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RECIPES

Double-Dipped Fried Chicken recipe on pg. 22

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Potato Salad recipe on pg. 22

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RECIPES

Collard Greens recipe on pg. 23

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RECIPES

Cole Slaw

recipe on pg. 23

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RECIPES

Mac â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;n Cheese Casserole recipe on pg. 23

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RECIPES

Pound Cake recipe on pg. 23

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RECIPES SPIKED SWEET TEA

DOUBLE-DIPPED FRIED CHICKEN

Ingredients: 1 gallon water 15 black tea bags 2 cups sugar 1 1/2 cups bourbon 8 cups ice

Ingredients: 2 pounds chicken thighs and/or legs 2 cups buttermilk 2 tablespoons salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 2 teaspoons cayenne 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder For the dredging: 2 cups AP flour 2 teaspoons onion powder 2 teaspoons garlic powder 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons black pepper 2 teaspoons cayenne 1 teaspoon paprika 2 eggs 1 cup milk or buttermilk Canola oil for frying

Directions: In a large pot, bring the water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the tea bags, making sure they are fully submerged. Steep for 18 minutes, then remove the tea bags and squeeze out any excess liquid. Add in sugar and whisk until fully dissolved, then mix in the bourbon. Transfer to a pitcher large enough to allow ice later on, and refrigerate until serving (then top off with ice). SWEET â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N CHEESEY CORNBREAD MUFFINS Ingredients: 1/2 cup AP flour 1/2 cup cornmeal 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sugar 2 eggs 1/4 cup honey 1/2 cup milk 1/4 cup butter, melted 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese Directions: Preheat the oven to 350, and prepare a muffin tin with nonstick spray. In a large bowl, combine the dry ingredients; in a small bowl, whisk together all the wet ingredients. Add the wet ingredients to the dry, and use a spatula to combine. Fold in the cheese. Fill the muffin tins about 3/4 of the way, and bake for 15 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean.

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Directions: In a large bowl, combine the buttermilk and spices, and mix. Pat the chicken dry, and place in the bowl. Make sure each piece is evenly coated in the buttermilk and seasonings; cover and refrigerate for three hours. Preheat the oven to 350, and in a deep pot, preheat 3 inches of canola oil to 350 degrees. Line the bottom of a baking sheet with paper towels, and place a baking rack above that to catch excess oil. In a wide bowl or plate, mix together the flour and all the spices; in a similar container, beat together the eggs and milk. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator, and begin dredging: Allow any excess buttermilk to drip off before dipping in the flour mixture, coating evenly. Dip in the egg mixture, then the flour mixture once more, then set aside. Repeat with remaining pieces of chicken. When done dredging, carefully place a piece of chicken in the oil (not over crowding the pot,

maybe frying two pieces at a time). Allow the chicken to cook for about 5-8 minutes, until a deep golden, before carefully flipping and repeating on the other side. When done on both sides, transfer to the baking rack, and proceed with other pieces. When every piece has been fried, remove the paper towels from under the baking rack. Transfer to the oven to finish cooking, about 30-40 minutes, or until cooked through. POTATO SALAD Ingredients: 6 large russet potatoes 6 eggs 1/2 medium yellow onion 4 Kosher dill pickles 3/4 cup mayonnaise 1/4 cup yellow mustard 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons black pepper 1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder 1 1/2 teaspoons chili powder Directions: Bring a large pot full of water to a boil, and carefully drop in cleaned potatoes with the skin still on. In the meanwhile, hard boil the eggs. Finely dice the onions and pickles, and transfer to a large bowl. When the potatoes are fork tender, drain from pot. Allow them to cool to touch, and use the back of a paring knife to easily peel off the skin (discard). Peel the eggs, and use the finest side of a cheese grater or zester to grate them into the bowl. Cut the potatoes into 1/2-inch cubes, and transfer to the bowl. Add in mayonnaise, mustard and all spices, and mix with a rubber spatula. Keep in the refrigerator until serving.

RECIPES COLLARD GREENS Ingredients: 2 bundles of collard greens 3/4 pound bacon 1 onion, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, minced 3 cups chicken broth 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon red chili flakes Directions: Rinse and drain the collards, and cut the stems off. Chop the bacon into one-inch pieces, and cook over medium heat in a large cast iron skillet until crispy. Drain the bacon bits on a paper towel, and set aside. In the fat renderings, saute the onions and garlic until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the collards followed by the seasonings, and continue cooking until the collards begin to soften and become pliable, stirring and rotating from time to time over the next 10 minutes. Once slightly softened, pour in the chicken broth, and reduce heat to low. Cook for another 45 minutes, or until the broth has reduced slightly and the collards are very tender. COLE SLAW Ingredients: 1 head of cabbage 3 carrots, peeled 1/4 medium yellow onion 1/2 cup mayonnaise 1/3 cup sugar 1/4 cup buttermilk 1/2 lemon, juiced 1 tablespoon white vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Directions: Grate the cabbage and carrots, and use a cheesecloth to squeeze out excess liquid before transferring to a bowl. Grate the onion and transfer directly to the bowl without using the cheesecloth. In a separate bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, sugar, buttermilk, lemon, vinegar, salt and pepper until smooth. Pour over the veggies, and use a spatula or wooden spoon to mix until incorporated. Keep in the refrigerator until serving. MAC â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;N CHEESE CASSEROLE Ingredients: 1 pound macaroni pasta Chicken broth 1/4 cup butter 2 1/2 tablespoons AP flour 1/4 teaspoon onion powder 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/4 teaspoon paprika 1 1/2 teaspoons pepper 1/2 teaspoon salt 3 cups milk 2 cups shredded medium cheddar cheese 1 cup monterey jack cheese For the topping: 2 tablespoons butter 1 cup panko 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon paprika 3 strips of bacon, crispy and chopped Directions: In a large pot, bring the chicken broth to a rolling boil and add in the macaroni; cook to al dente as directed by the package, and strain when finished, reserving 1 cup of the broth. Preheat the oven to 350. In a large pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add in the flour, and whisk until a roux forms; continue cooking for about 5 minutes or until blond. Add

in the seasonings before very slowly drizzling in the milk, whisking the whole time, followed by the chicken broth. Cook for about 10 minutes until thickened, whisking occasionally. In the meantime, prepare the topping by melting the butter in a medium-sized pan over medium heat, then add in the panko and seasonings. Stir to prevent burning, and evenly toast the panko. To the roux, add in the pasta and cheese, and use a large wooden spoon or spatula to fold in the ingredients. Transfer to a baking dish, and top with panko, followed by bacon. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the top is golden. POUND CAKE Ingredients: 3 cups AP flour 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) butter, room temperature 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 1 1/2 teaspoons almond extract 2 1/4 cups sugar 4 eggs 1/2 cup buttermilk Directions: Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Beat together the butter and extracts until smooth; add in sugar, and continue beating until fluffy and pale in color. Gradually add in eggs one at a time, until fully incorporated. Starting with the flour, alternate between adding the flour and the buttermilk, combining after each addition until fully incorporated. Once all the ingredients have been added, continue mixing for about two minutes. Transfer to a well-greased bundt pan, and bake for about an hour and 15 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. M

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RECIPES

RECIPES FOR SUMMER

REFRESHING THAI-INSPIRED SALAD Ingredients: 2 cucumbers 1 small onion 2 bunches radishes 3 carrots, peeled 1 cup rice wine vinegar 1/2 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt Directions: Rinse and slice all the vegetables as thin as possible, using a mandoline if available. In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, sugar and salt until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer the vegetables into the bowl, and toss until evenly coated. Keep refrigerated for up to a week.

Hot Summer days call for light, refreshing meals. These dishes are just that â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and a rainbow of color.

Side Dish

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SCALLOP SALAD WITH A CILANTRO-LIME DRESSING Ingredients: 1 pound sea scallops (or 4-5 per serving) 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper Arugula salad mix 2 mangoes, cubed 1/2 cup feta cheese Cilantro-Lime Dressing: 1 lime, juiced 1 bundle cilantro 1/2 cup Greek yogurt 2 garlic cloves 3 tablespoons olive oil 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper Directions: For the dressing: Add all the ingredients to the blender, and pulse until smooth (about one minute). In a large skillet, preheat the olive oil over medium heat. Gently pat the scallops dry with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. Season one side of the scallops; when the oil is hot, add the scallops to the pan, seasoning-side down. Season the remaining side with more salt and pepper. Cook for about 2-3 minutes on each side, until seared golden brown on both sides. When cooked through, add to a bed of salad, and top with mangoes, feta and dressing.

EntrĂŠe

Creamy Tomato Vodka Pasta with Shrimp recipe on pg. 18

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STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB CRISP Ingredients: 4 cups strawberries 2 cups rhubarb 1/2 lemon, juiced 1 1/2 cups sugar 1/4 cup AP flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg Oat Crisp: 1 1/2 cups AP flour 1 1/2 cups brown sugar 1 1/4 cups oatmeal 1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 cup butter, room temperature 3 tablespoons butter, melted Directions: Preheat the oven to 375. Rinse off all the strawberries and rhubarb, and remove stems and any blemishes. Cut everything into 1/4-1/2-inch cubes. Transfer to a large bowl. Add in lemon juice, and all other ingredients, and combine with a spatula until evenly coated. Transfer to a 9x13 baking pan, and set aside. For the crisp: combine all the ingredients in a small bowl until fully incorporated (it may still be clumpy). Spread evenly over the fruit layer. Bake for 30 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbly and the crisp is golden.

Bruschetta recipe on pg. 18

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Dessert

Sprit zer

Simple syrups are a great way to spruce up and customize any cocktail.

Bar

FRUIT-INFUSED SIMPLE SYRUP Ingredients: For the simple syrup: 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup water Variations: 1/2 cup diced strawberries 1/2 cup diced blackberries + 1 lemon, juiced 3/4 cup diced cucumbers + 1 lime, juiced 3/4 cup diced rhubarb Directions: In a medium pan on medium heat, combine the sugar and water and bring it to a light boil. Stir, and let boil for about 10 minutes, or until thickened. Remove from heat, and add in fruit. Cool for at least 30 minutes. Strain the fruit from the simple syrup, and store in an airtight container.

SIMPLE SYRUP COCKTAIL Ingredients: 1 shot of vodka 1 ounce flavored simple syrup Ice Sparkling water or club soda, chilled Directions: In a glass filled with ice, combine vodka and simple syrup, and top off with sparkling water. Garnish as desired.

STRAWBERRY

RHUBARB

BLACKBERRY LEMON

CUCUMBER LIME M &M

FRUIT & HERB PAIRINGS by KRISTINA DOMITROVICH photo by LINDSAY PACE

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Mint

Oregano

MELONS BERRIES GRAPES CITRUS FRUITS KIWIS PEARS STONE FRUITS COCONUTS

BERRIES

Italian Parsley

Rosemary

Sage

LEMONS MELONS BANANAS COCONUTS PINEAPPLES GRAPEFRUITS

CITRUS FRUITS GRAPES PINEAPPLES CRANBERRIES APPLES KIWIS

CHERRIES PINEAPPLES

y family was initially very concerned, some even repulsed, when I told them what I was doing. I was preparing a strawberry pavlova for that evening’s dessert. In the bowl of chopped strawberries, I tossed in some chiffonaded basil. Despite their initial doubt, everyone loved it. Whether mixing in a cocktail, serving on a pavlova, throwing it in some jam or just eating it out of a bowl, fruit and herbs go beautifully together – providing depth and profile to round everything out nicely. Here are some suggested pairings to spruce up your fruit game. M

Cilantro

Basil

MELONS MANGOES COCONUTS CITRUS FRUITS PINEAPPLES FIGS PLUMS APPLES

STRAWBERRIES CITRUS FRUITS STONE FRUITS COCONUTS FIGS PINEAPPLES

Ginger MELONS PEARS BANANAS RHUBARB GRAPES APRICOTS

PEACHES PINEAPPLES CITRUS FRUITS APPLES MANGOES BERRIES

Thyme CHERRIES GRAPEFRUITS LEMONS FIGS PEACHES HONEYDEW CRANBERRIES

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FOOD TRUCKS

by KRISTINA DOMITROVICH photos by LINDSAY PACE

Few people have what it takes to run a restaurant, let alone run one out of a truck. There are a lot of unimaginable challenges to the naked eye: Wind blowing napkins and wrappers around, learning how much food to prepare on a Tuesday versus a Friday and an overall cramped space with limited equipment, often more than one person working in the kitchen. We chatted with a few food truck owners in the area to hear their inspiration and motivation behind their businesses. We couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t include everyone, so be sure to check out the trucks in your area!

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Clockwise, starting top left: Local Mobile saves each bread clip from all the loaves over the years, on display in front of stickers customers will give them; Kurt McKellan and Ashley Prince on the back of the truck; The classic cheeseburger and the shrimp po’boy; The truck has a blackboard on one side, on it displays, “It’s a food truck, y’all!”

ocal Mobile opened up back in August of 2013, staking its pioneering claim as Tupelo’s first food truck, and the state’s second. Back then, food truck laws were few and far between, and Tupelo had yet to add any to its legislature. The city let Kurt McKellan open a truck anyways, operating under temporary event rules and regulations, and would eventually add ordinances over time. McKellan said most people thought food trucks were a “fly-bynight kind of operation; here one day, gone the next.” And back then, he said he didn’t know how it would pan out for his food truck. He and his wife moved from Nashville 12 years ago, and he didn’t bother getting a local phone number for the truck. “I didn’t change the number just because I don’t want to change my personal phone number,” he said. “And I didn’t want to get a whole other line for a food truck that might or might not work, and thankfully it did.” McKellan planned it all down to a T in just one night with some friends: The truck’s name would be Local Mobile – that plays off Tupelo’s notoriety for being a train town and sounds like locomotive – and the paint, turquoise, is just eye-catching enough without being obnoxious. The menu hasn’t changed in seven years; well, one thing was added to the menu – the classic burger – but that’s it. The truck “(serves) as many local ingredients” as it can with its menu, which is largely inspired by time McKellan spent with his grandmother. He grew up in Madison, Mississippi, and his grandparents lived just down the road, but his grandmother was from Louisiana.

“She was a Cajun, and she cooked a lot of Cajun food: lotta gumbos, red beans and rice, chicken and dumplings, and po’boys,” he said. “So I knew the menu I wanted to do just because I like Cajun food.” Without an oven or a fryer in the truck, what Local Mobile serves has its limits. There’s a crockpot for things like a pork butt, a stove that he can “do my gumbo over a pot of rice and stuff all the time,” and a flattop. He said since the truck’s been rolling, the burger sliders with Hoisin sauce and pickled onions, along with the shrimp po’boy, have been his best sellers. Though he’s worked in some form of the food industry for basically his whole life – a local restaurant from the time he could work up until college, a food inspector in Nashville and a food distributor after that – he hardly considers himself a chef. “I’m not a chef, you know, at all, but I’m a good cook,” he said. For him, a food truck offers the best of both worlds: He still gets to cook, while also interacting with people at the “front of the house” in the truck.

“Steak and a baked potato, salad,” McKellan said, “probably a Caesar salad.” M &M

Clockwise, starting above: Jake Houston takes a break and sits on the truck’s steps; The menu allows patrons to completely customize their order, or let Houston make the choices for them; A pulled pork sandwich on brioche with pickled red cabbage and white BBQ sauce and sweet potato fries; The truck is a slate grey with the menu attached to the side.

he day Jake’s Craft BBQ opened in Oxford was the day that the city announced they would be closing all dining rooms due to COVID-19. “I was nervous there for a little while, but things worked out for me,” Jake Houston said. Houston has always been in the restaurant industry, and that was his first job. “I got my first car and got my license, and my dad was like, ‘How much gas you have left?’ And I was like, ‘About half a tank;’ he was like, ‘You have half a tank to find a job,’” he laughed. “So I got my first job at a barbecue place here in town.” Through his food truck, he hopes to gain enough of a following to eventually open a storefront. In the meantime, he wanted to bring different types of barbecue to the area for people to experience. “I kind of want to bring a new spin to barbecue,” he said. “There’s all different regions of barbecue, vastly different styles, and I have never had one that I don’t like, but, you know, you have to travel to different destinations.” To bring a new twist, Houston allows customization. Customers pick a sandwich or taco, the meat, the sauce, the toppings, and it’s a completely customizable sandwich. Of course, there’s the “Just make me something good” option, which was inspired by an instant

fan of the truck. But no matter what gets built inside the truck, customers can know one thing: at Jake’s, there’s no reheating. All the smoked meats are done the day of, and conveniently, right in the truck where the smoker is. Houston joked that installing the smoker into the truck just makes good business sense. “It’s a secret type of advertising,” he said. “If I’m driving by and I smell barbecue, I instantly get hungry for barbecue.” In addition to making sure the meats are freshly prepared, everything else is pretty much done in-house – or rather in-truck – too. Houston makes every sauce, all six, and all seven pickled toppings himself. With everything he has going on in his truck, it can get pretty cramped, but it’s worth it because he gets to combine two of his greatest passions: the outdoors and the kitchen. He said that luckily, his wife is a Type-A personality, who “Marie Kondo’ed” the truck. “I’d be up a creek without her,” he laughed.

“My wife, she’s Vietnamese, and her mom makes the most amazing pho,” Houston said. “When she says, ‘Hey, we’re going to my mom’s house,’ that’s awesome.”

Clockwise, starting above: The truck stays parked on West Maine Street in Tupelo; The Acosta family; The counter holds hot sauces and napkins for diners; Tacos de Asada with the signature charred jalepeno and flower-cut radish.

n 1998, Juan Carlos Acosta moved from his hometown of Zacatecas, Mexico, to Tupelo to be closer to family. Along the way, he always knew he wanted to open a restaurant, but worked in construction for 18 years. In August 2015, he took the first steps to achieve his goals by opening Taquería Ferrus. He never had experience in the food industry, but his cousin and brand manager Jacqueline Acosta said he would cook for their family get-togethers regularly. “He’s always been well known to be a good cook,” she said. Part of that always included one key, Juan-Carlos-Acosta staple: a radish cut to resemble a flower. His cousin said that he likes to make things look nice. Now that flower-carved radish is kind of a calling card for Taquería Ferrus. Every dish is served with fresh toppings like cilantro and onions, a charred jalapeño and, of course, the recognizable radish. The truck serves three main options – tacos, quesadillas or tortas. The protein options vary from chicken, shrimp or steak, but patrons can also request cow’s tongue or lamb. From the start, it’s always been owned and operated by him and his family. Acosta said “taquería” translates to a quicker restaurant or vendor, but not a fast-food equivalent.

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“It’s not taking the time to make beans and rice,” she explained. When he first started out, Tequería Ferrus was a smaller truck. Over the years, business has grown enough to allow for a larger truck, which was acquired in 2019 and now stays parked on West Main in Tupelo. However, with the smaller truck, the crew is looking to expand and maybe have two trucks throughout the area. The end goal is still the same as the initial plan: One day, Acosta wants to open a restaurant.

Juan Carlos Acosta’s favorite comfort food is shrimp, chicken and steak fajitas.

Clockwise, starting above: Katy Pruitt and Mickey Fratesi in their T-shirts for The Gypsy; The truck with the white-board menu outside of Tupelo’s City Hall; The Bohemian burger, smoked turkey melt and Fratesi Italian salad; Originally, Fratesi wanted more stickers on the truck’s surfaces, while Pruitt wanted none, so the two compromised with covering the propane tanks in them.

aty Pruitt and Mickey Fratesi, who run The Gypsy together, have both been in the food industry since they can remember. Fratesi owned a restaurant in Saltillo, and was attracted to food trucks for one major benefit: location. Unlike a restaurant, a food truck is never tied down to one place, and can go where the business is. But first thing was first: they needed a truck and a menu, which would take them two years to perfect. “We wanted to make sure that we did absolutely everything correctly,” Pruitt said. The Gypsy opened in August 2018, and has been rolling since. On the menu, they serve a variety of dishes, some old and some new. “We kept some recipes (from the Italian restaurant), and then threw in some new creations of ours as well,” she said. “We decided that we need to do some creative things, introduce some people to some new flavors.” Alongside their perfected classics like the burger, a salad with Fratesi’s Italian dressing, which can be bought by the bottle, and turkey sandwich with house-smoked turkey, patrons can choose from fried ravioli and a pimento grilled cheese. Pruitt was surprised to see this one make the menu, because growing up she remembers disliking pimento cheese. But, with it being a Southern staple, people kept suggesting they find a way to incorporate it. In the long run and after a lot of research, Pruitt would make a pimento cheese that even she loves, and the two added the grilled cheese to

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the menu – even listing the pimento cheese as an optional burger topping alongside their Gouda and cheddar options. “Oh goodness, hands-rise-to-the-sky absolutely delicious,” she laughed. Their pimento grilled cheese has brought back many reviews, one of which Pruitt said she’ll carry with her. “He said that it reminded him of his great-grandmother’s pimento cheese that he hadn’t had in years,” she said. “That gave me chills, and that, honestly, I’ll never forget that compliment.” For her, that’s one of the best parts of working in the food industry. While she loves being creative and making new things, her favorite part is seeing people’s reactions to her food. “When I finally do get to perfect a recipe and get to put it on the truck, and I get to see people enjoy it, that literally is like the icing on the cake – it’s why I do it, it’s their enjoyment,” she said. “I truly love making people happy with our food.”

“I’m a sucker for some good ol’ home-style breaded chicken tenders or catfish. I want something fried, and I want it to stick to my bones,” Pruitt laughed. “Good, home-style breaded chicken, some made-from-scratch and creamy mashed potatoes and what I call Grandma’s mac and cheese.”

Clockwise, starting top left: Rosie’s weekly menu; Hannah Quarles in an apron made by her pastor’s wife; Rosie’s signature Philly Cheesesteak sandwich served on Texas toast; The Airstream has a bright line going down the side, and, of course, a wiener dog to incorporate the truck’s moniker, Rosie.

annah Quarles, the owner of Rosie’s Grab & Go in Pontotoc, has been dreaming of owning a food truck for years now. For a science project in the fourth grade, she created a sauce; and in the eigth grade, she got her first job at a local restaurant. There, she would learn waitressing by filling glasses or serving food. Her passion for the food industry quickly snowballed, and hasn’t slowed since. With experience in the front and the back of the house, she knew a food truck would provide her the perfect balance she was seeking: Still getting to interact with customers, while continuing to do what she loves most, cooking. Since college, she joked that she talked about wanting a food truck so regularly that her friends and family eventually told her to either “do it or stop talking about it.” On a beach vacation with her parents in March 2019, she saw an Airstream listed a few miles away on Facebook. They decided to go take a look, and two days later she made her offer. In her years of dreaming about this food truck, she never came up with a name that stuck. During a hard time, Quarles got a wiener dog, named Rosie. With a pup and a truck, she said everything just fell into place. She opened in October 2019, serving Philly cheesesteaks,

doughburgers – which her mom stopped by the morning the truck opened to teach her how to make – and other lunch staples and sandwiches. Some are even served with Rosie’s sauce, the sauce she invented in the fourth grade. Granted, it’s been modified, but the bones are there. “I love it, it’s my dream job,” she said. “Just serving the community and seeing people that I know each day. I just love every day getting up to cook for people.”

“I love good chicken tenders and mashed potatoes and fresh vegetables,” Quarles said.

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Built to Entertain Growing up in New Albany, Ben Coleman always had his dream home in mind, even down to the exact plot of land. He even knew he wanted his lakefront property to have a basement with a walkout patio. Now, he and his high school sweetheart and wife of 20 years, have just that. 36

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by KRISTINA DOMITROVICH photos by LINDSAY PACE

he road home was a little winding. At first, while they were building and waiting for their old home to sell, Ben and Chrystal Coleman lived on the property, but in a 900-square foot, one-bathroom “shop house” with their four children – for four years. From blueprints to moving in, the couple said the process took about two years. Along the way, they decided they needed help achieving their vision, so they reached out to Emily Forman of Moda Designs. But for the bones, they had a general idea. “We wanted to have a house with great views of the lake all the way across, from our bedroom all the way to the kitchen and dining area,” Ben said. “We wanted to have a house where you could open it up and it becomes like a blow-through house where you get the breeze off this big hill.” In addition to creating space for a lot of breeze, the couple knew they were going to need something to accommodate all their entertaining. They wanted their guests to have the freedom to spread out, but not have to divvy off into different zones. “Not cramped for space,” he said, “but you don’t feel like you’re in five different parts of the house.” Initially, the couple had planned on using more exposed brick on the

inside of the house: The foyer, the archway connecting the dining room with the kitchen, the fireplace. That’s when Forman jumped in and suggested wooden elements instead to keep things lighter. The couple joked that they found most of their design inspiration on Pinterest, brought the ideas to Forman and asked her to bring them to life. There were a few ideas Forman couldn’t imagine at first, like the second island in the kitchen, but now she can’t imagine anything else. “You’re seeing that more now,” she said on the second island. “But when they came to me with it, I was like, ‘A double island?’ but now I’m seeing it a lot.” For Chrystal, she “just wanted something different.” So, Forman brought in a few other elements, too: Picking a single bold color to incorporate throughout the house (the middle kitchen island, the hallway’s ceiling, the master bath), barely noticeable blue barn bedroom doors, painting the porch ceilings a faint blue to deter bugs. Along with fun pops of color, the exterior paint color, wood stains, crown molding, and cohesiveness throughout the home’s design, the three agreed that Forman played a massive role in selecting lighting. “Lighting is really important, and I think that’s where a lot of people get it wrong,” Forman said. “(They) may like both of these fixtures,

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but they may not look good together, so we put a lot of thought into that; and we don’t have a lot, but I think what they have is great.”

Their Style

While Ben says the home is the perfect combination of both their styles, they didn’t initially agree on the theme of the house. Ben said Chrystal wanted “this whole thing really, really country” – “rustic, not country,” Chrystal and Forman would correct; whereas Ben is more minimal and modern at heart. “He would (make it) like modern, modern,” Chrystal joked. But along the way and with Forman’s help, they “blended,” and settled on a contemporary farmhouse. “I like things really crisp and clean, and not cluttered at all; and she grew up in a house where that was not the case, so she can’t help it,” he teased. “I think we both got exactly what we wanted, the contemporary, clean-line look with the country accents.”

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Aside from a happy medium on the design front, the pair got exactly what they wanted out of their family home. All their kids’ rooms are on the same level, which Chrystal attributed partly due to the fact that they transitioned from being so close in their old place, but also because family is deeply important to the couple. Along the main hallway, directly after a side entryway, the wall is lined with locker-style cubbies, perfect for setting down sports equipment and backpacks upon entry. With a soon-to-be 18 yearold, 16-, 13- and 11-year olds, the couple wanted to be able to entertain their kids’ friends, too. That’s where the basement and third story come in. With those additions, there’s enough space for a theatre, a guest room, a pool table, an airhockey table and a ping-pong table. “Even if (we) had 20 kids over here,” Chrystal said, “there’s something they have to do and they can run around, so it’s awesome. So it’s exactly what I wanted.” Aside from being able to entertain guests, there are some new things the couple has been able to appreciate again in their new home. In their previous home, Chrystal said the space was too cramped to enjoy cooking. “I hated cooking when we were at the old place,” she said. “But now, of course with this kitchen, who wouldn’t want to cook in there?” As for Ben, he said he mostly sticks to grilling. “I enjoy grilling,” he said. “I’ll help when I can, but she’s the boss lady.”

“I hated cooking when we were at the old place. But now, of course with this kitchen, who wouldn’t want to cook in there?” Chrystal Coleman

Page 40: The Colemans’ kitchen includes two islands, with the center island painted blue – above hang two cage pendant lights. Page 41, left: The dining table sports dark rustic chairs with a cage lighting fixture above and a china cabinet on the farside of the wall. Page 41, right: The seating area next to the dining table has two armchairs, an ottoman, and a brick fireplace with bench seating built in along the wall. On the other side of that wall, the fireplace is mirrored onto one back patio; and beyond the glass doors is another patio with outdoor seating and a firepit.

Previous page, bottom left: Emily Forman of Moda Designs; Top right: Ben and Chrystal Coleman sitting on their front porch steps; Bottom right: The curved, chimney range hood fits the contemporary farmhouse theme. This page, left: A buffet table to the right of the second island sports various selected knickknacks and lamps; Above: Flowers on the dining room table.

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Left: In the pantry, along with extra cabinet and counter space, is a bar station. Right: The barstools at the taller, second island where the family tends to dine.

The Kitchen’s Specs:

The kitchen includes quite a few hidden elements that make it seamlessly easy to entertain. The first is the pantry. The walk-in pantry offers extra storage and counter space, perfect for keeping the stand mixer, coffee station and other things neatly tucked away. Chrystal says this is perfect for entertaining, as she can prepare dishes in the pantry, and bring them out to be cooked or served as needed. “I can do it in there,” she said, “and just keep it neat for entertaining purposes.” Another tidy feature is having two kitchen sinks, one on the extended portion of the kitchen counters and the other on the island. The one in the island offers easy access while working, and the sink closest to the dining area is perfect for swiftly moving dirty dishes off the table to be cleaned. Though, when it’s just the Colemans, they said they tend to eat at the second island rather than the table. “I wish we had made it bigger,” Ben joked about the island. The microwave can double as an oven of sorts with a “cook smart” feature, which Chrystal says is one of her favorite parts of the kitchen. Using this feature, she can input a dish’s information – type of meat and pounds – and it will cook it to perfection. “It knows exactly how to cook it,” she says, “and it’s never come out underdone or dry.” The kitchen also flaunts a hidden chopping block in the middle island, upper-lit cabinets, a full-length wine cooler and a touchactivated seal-breaking refrigerator for easier access when hands are full. Chrystal, who has recently fallen back in love with cooking – partly

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because of her kitchen, and partly thanks to meal subscription boxes like Hello Fresh – grew up with “country cooking,” but now cooks mostly Italian, Japanese and Mexican cuisine. “In that order,” Ben joked. With all the pastas she makes, she said the pot filler over the gas stove has proved it is worth its weight in gold. The couple’s plans for the house are still underway, as they moved in right before Christmas in 2019, and they plan on tackling the landscape next. Chrystal has lots of cherry trees and rose bushes in mind to incorporate plenty of color in their yard. Ben joked that his only complaint is he wished they had put the laundry room closer to the master bath. “That’s a long haul,” he said laughing. Fortunately, that’s only a temporary dilemma – they will soon install an additional washer and dryer in the master suite for easier access. In the meanwhile, they said they couldn’t be happier with their new home. “I absolutely love my house,” Chrystal said. “It’s like coming home to a vacation.” M

“I’m going to stick with my pasta,” Chrystal said. Probably her manicotti specifically, she added. “I would do a big ole steak, and potatoes and onions,” Ben said.

Coca-Cola IN the South PHOTO ESSAY

by LINDSAY PACE

hades of aluminum and vermillion reflect the South’s cultural narrative, one that sings for Coca-Cola. Mississippians know this as truth. Cities decorate downtown brick walls with murals and artifacts that celebrate Coke’s significance to our state, which dates back to 1894, when the drink was first bottled in Vicksburg. Joseph Biedenharn sold it for 60 cents per case. The drink would later be bottled in Corinth for 95 years. And now, you’ll never see a baseball game without Coke and peanuts, or a church potluck without a sticky, chocolate Coke cake. The drink is another kind of water here, one that brings effervescent soul. Enjoy a few reflections of North Mississippi, and while you’re at it, our favorite Coca-Cola recipes.

corinth

FOOTE & POLK STREET

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COLA BACON Ingredients: 1 pound thick-cut bacon 2 cups Coca-Cola 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt Directions: Preheat oven to 350, and line two baking sheets with foil. Over that, place oven-safe baking racks. In a medium pot, bring the Coke to a simmer and continue softly boiling until the Coke reduces down to one cup. In the meanwhile, combine the brown sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Once the Coke has been reduced, transfer to the bowl with the brown sugar, and stir until dissolved. Separate the strips of bacon, place them in the bowl and lightly massage the syrup mixture into the bacon. Cover and let sit for 10 minutes. Transfer bacon strips to the baking rack, not over crowding. When the bacon is evenly spread out, pour the remaining syrup over the strips. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove to flip the strips. Return for another 10-15 minutes, or until the bacon reaches the desired crispiness.

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MS-50 & SOUTH DIVISION STREET

west point

MS-50 & COMMERCE STREET

west point

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winona

GREENSBORO STREET & HIGHWAY 82 M &M

COKE FLOAT Ingredients: Old-fashioned vanilla ice cream Coca-Cola For the peanuts: 2 tablespoons butter, melted 1/2 cup honey 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 teaspoons salt, divided 1 pound raw peanuts 1/4 cup sugar Directions: Preheat the oven to 325, and line a baking pan with foil. In a large bowl, whisk together the butter, honey, vanilla and half the salt. Add in the peanuts and toss until evenly coated. Transfer to baking sheet. Cook for 20-25 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Once done roasting, allow to cool for 3-5 minutes, then pour sugar and remaining salt; toss to coat evenly, and let cool completely. Assembly: in a large mug or jar, add desired scoops of ice cream, drop in a few peanuts to create layers, top off with Coke. Add more peanuts on top.

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BOURBON-COLA CHERRIES Ingredients: 2 cups bourbon 1 cup Coca-Cola 1 cup sugar 1 pound red cherries Directions: In a large pot over medium heat, combine bourbon, Coke and sugar. Bring to a soft boil, stirring occasionally, and cook for 10-15 minutes, or until reduced to half the volume. Allow the syrup to cool to room temperature. In the meanwhile, remove stems and pits from rinsed cherries using a metal straw. Transfer cherries to a large jar, and pour the syrup over the cherries. Store in the refrigerator, and serve on sundaes or as a garnish on cocktails.

starkville

LOUISVILLE & GREENSBORO STREET

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WEBSTER & CRUISE STREET

corinth

FOOTE & POLK STREET

corinth corinth

FOOTE & WASHINGTON STREET

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COKE COOKIES Ingredients: 1/2 cup butter, room temperature 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 3/4 cup granulated sugar 2/3 cup Coca-Cola, flat 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 1/2 cups AP flour 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon baking soda For the Coca-Cola Frosting: 4 tablespoons butter, room temperature 1/2 cup Coca-Cola, flat 4 cups powdered sugar

pontotoc

WEST WASHINGTON & SOUTH MAIN STREET

Directions: In a medium saucepan, brown the butter. Transfer to a glass bowl to prevent further cooking, and allow it to cool completely until it resolidifies. Preheat the oven to 350, and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, combine all the dry ingredients and mix. Once the butter reaches room temperature, transfer to a stand or hand mixer and beat together with the sugars until light and fluffy. Add in the egg and vanilla, mixing until combined; followed by the Coke, mixing until incorporated. Add the dry ingredients, and stir until just combined. Use a cookie scoop to transfer to a baking sheet. Bake for about 13 minutes, or until slightly golden. In the meantime, make the frosting by whipping together all the ingredients. Allow the cookies to cool completely before frosting.

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BUYER â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GUIDE

When Food Feeds the Soul • COLUMN • by KRISTINA DOMITROVICH photo by LINDSAY PACE

hen you say “rotel dip,” every person usually thinks of something different. I never realized rotel dip was a thing until I went to college. Over a potluck get-together with friends, I realized most people had their family’s version of the dip: some put beef in it, some top it with fresh veggies and herbs like tomatoes, onions and cilantro – to each their own. My family’s version, or at least our closest thing to it, is what we call Dad’s dip (because why bother with frilly names in the Domitrovich household). My parents are from the North; they grew up in Washington and Montana, and are far from Southern, though we moved to Alabama in 2001. To the best of my knowledge, rotel dip isn’t a thing up in the North; in fact, I doubt you can even find a can of Ro-Tel in stores. The concept of rotel dip was never a thing in our house, either, but it turns out, Dad’s dip is really just an overglorified version of it – just Domitrovichified. Spicy sausage, canned green chiles, onions, Velveeta, obviously, and a slew of other ingredients go into the pot. I remember when I was little, standing on a barstool over the pot, watching. My job was to catch any skin from the chiles that had gotten by while they were sweating in the pot with the onions. My favorite part was when it was time to add the Velveeta; my dad would let me cut the block of grossly gelatinous cheese into jiggly cubes, then plop them into the pot. We would typically make it around the holidays. He, along with my brother and sister, prefer to eat theirs with Doritos; my mom and I stick to Tostitos Multigrain Scoops. A football game probably

blasting in the background. Just thinking about it feels homey. We’ve all heard the importance of breaking bread together, how it can be a spiritual experience, but never doubt its comfort, too. For a lot of people, just thinking about a certain food can take someone back in time, maybe to a specific memory. Baked ham? I’m instantly transported to the Easter I had stitches on my forehead. My helmet did little to protect me when I hit my head on our driveway during a bike-vs-scooter race with my sister (I won, by the way). There are photos of her and I making funny faces in our Easter dresses on the front porch, a white bandage plastered on my head. It’s an amusing memory, but some foods can bring us to tears. It might be a food that’s missed, hasn’t been tasted in years because a passed-on loved one would always make it. One time, my mom cried over a red velvet cake in a restaurant because it tasted like the one her grandmother used to make, who never told anyone the recipe. So when everyone kicked into full-blown panic-over-the-pandemic mode, I wasn’t surprised that a few recipes took the spotlight, foods like banana bread. In a time when food waste feels specifically sinful, it provides a remedy. But more than that, it’s carbatious and tasty, nostalgic and comforting in the face of something so scary and unknown. I can’t tell you the tally of posts I’ve read about how much someone misses their favorite Mexican restaurant, how that will be the first place they return to “when all this is over.” The longing to sit down with friends over a bowl of queso and a pitcher of margaritas. Or others, impatiently

waiting to have their family over for dinner or a night on the grill – things we’ve all been missing. Almost every post reminiscing over food in some way or another. There’s a reason for dinner parties and holidays centered on feasting special foods. At a molecular level, sure, food provides nourishment and keeps us going; but for humanity, food fuels the soul, too. It’s a part of our culture, each of us offering something personal and different – a piece of who we are, our preferences and where we’ve come from. When my grandma died, the annual responsibility of making povitica – (puhv-it-itza), a sweet Croatian nut bread – for my dad’s side of the family passed on to my mom. My mom isn’t Croatian, but she took on the recipe, and in a way, the culture, too. Sure, she took on the culture the 30-some-odd years ago when she and my dad got married, but something changed when she took charge of povitica. That’s the power of food: From different cultures, we find community at the table, something to bond over. To an extent, it can break down boundaries and start conversations, help see someone’s life through their plate. You celebrate with food: eating at a wedding, going out to eat after a graduation, getting a cake for your birthday. But you grieve with food, too. People bring casserole dish after casserole dish of food over after a death – partly to make life easier, but also to say, “Here’s something tasty that might distract you, even if it’s just for one bite.” Food has the power to heal, and it can teach us things, comfort us, and remind us where we came from and how it’s shaped us into who we are. M

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SHERIN

sauce by GINNA PARSONS photos by LINDSAY PACE

About 15 years ago, Zane Alford started puttering in his kitchen, trying to find just the rght ingredients to make a special sauce â&#x20AC;&#x201C; not really a barbecue sauce or a marinade, but more like a condiment you could put on anything.

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“I like red beans and rice because it’s a meal we have enjoyed with family and friends for many years,” Kathy Jo said. “My favorite comfort meal is fried chicken, because my mom always made it for me,” Zane said.

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Previous page, clockwise from left: Chicken seasoned with Sherin Spice is a common meal for the Alfords; Sherin Sauce labels depict a view from the Alford’s backyard; Sherin Spice, a dry rub, is a new culinary project for the business. This page: The Alfords sit on their front porch swing.

e played around with it forever, but last year he finally got it where he wanted it to be,” said Zane’s wife, Kathy Jo. The couple called their sauce Sherin, a combination of the names of their daughters, Shelby and Erin. They began giving Sherin Sauce away to friends and family and Zane’s customers in the crop insurance business. “I’d make two gallons at a time and we’d put it in old ketchup bottles or whatever we had around,” Zane said. “People didn’t care what it came in. One day we carried it to a guy as a gift and he said, ‘Zane, this is pretty good,’ and I said, ‘Thank you.’ And he said, ‘I don’t think you understand what I mean. You need to be selling it.’” So in May 2019, Zane and Kathy Jo graduated from old ketchup bottles to Mason jars and started taking their Sherin Sauce to farmers’ markets and festivals in Batesville, Oxford, Water Valley, Grenada and Charleston. “We carried it to the Midtown Farmers Market in Oxford and this older man came up to me and said, ‘What have you got there?’ and I told him, ‘This is the soon-to-be-worldfamous Sherin Sauce,’” Zane said. “He laughed and then he tried it. The next week he came back and he said, ‘Let me give you some advice. Don’t stop what you’re doing. You’ve got something here.’” Sherin Sauce is hard to describe. It’s less sweet and thinner than traditional barbecue sauce, although it can be a barbecue sauce or a marinade. But the uses don’t stop there. “We’re not categorized as a barbecue sauce,” Kathy Jo said. “We look at this as the next big condiment you use on anything – spaghetti, chicken salad, in place of ketchup. We have a Facebook page and I put on there how we use it and post recipes and people tell different ways they use it.” Once the Alfords realized people would pay for their sauce, they quickly found a commercial kitchen in the Delta, where it’s produced today in 16-ounce bottles. Sherin Foods has two employees – Zane and Kathy Jo. “He’d make a big batch and pour it into pitchers, and I’d take the pitchers and use a funnel to fill the bottles,” Kathy

Jo said. “Then we’d bring the bottles home and put the labels on them.” The equipment they use now is a little more sophisticated, but the original recipe is still the same. “We carried it to a co-packer to see about making it in bulk for us and we got the samples back and it wasn’t right,” Zane said. “He was using inferior ingredients.” “That’s when we knew we had to keep doing it ourselves,” Kathy Jo said. Along the way, the couple added a second product, Sherin Spicy Sauce, which Zane describes as spicy, but not hot. They also have an all-purpose seasoning, Sherin Spice, that’s ready to be rolled out but not on shelves yet. “We are now in 53 grocery stores and boutiques, mostly in Mississippi and Tennessee,” Kathy Jo said. “And we’re slated to be in 200 stores by the end of the summer,” Zane said. “As demand continues to spike, we’re continuing to find ways to meet the supply needs. I had an order the other day for 26 cases. If we did that five days a week, we’d be doing OK.” The next steps for Sherin Foods are to hire employees to help in the kitchen and with distribution, and to move the commercial kitchen from the Delta to the Alfords’ 87-acre farm in Enid. Zane also wants to expand the line to include a hot sauce, white sauce, another spice and Sherin jerky. “Our goal is to be a brand, not just a product,” Kathy Jo said. “We’re so thankful to friends and family who have given us encouragement to do this. We’ve had a lot of support and a lot of help.” Another goal, Kathy Jo said, is to give back to organizations that are important to the couple, such as First Baptist Church in Batesville and the Shriner’s Hospital. “The more we get into this, the more we realize if God continues to bless it, it’s something that can be carried on by our children,” Zane said. “We owe everything to him. As the Lord keeps opening doors, I’m going to keep walking through them.” M

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Mud & Mag Video

Diy

PAINT-PRESSED TEA TOWELS Ring in summer recipes with bright, cheery tea towels. Best of all? These take 5 minutes to make! Head to mudandmag.com to watch us do it.

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to craft or compost ...

Not into composting? Crafts can repurpose food waste, too. We dipped our less-than-loved celery hearts, asparagus and citrus fruits into paint to create these pretty towels.