Union County Home & Garden 2017

Home &Garden UNION COUNTY

The New Albany Gazette County Green/New Albany Gazette NATIVE PLANTS ● CANNING ● ZINNIAS ●Union SPRING TIPS

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Home &Garden UNION COUNTY

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2017 CONTENTS

Connecting with native plants

By Robert Ballard

ON THE COVER A cross vine, or Bignonia Capreolata, native to Mississippi. Photo by Robert Ballard

6 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

HOW TO REACH US FOR STORY IDEAS OR COMMENTS J. LYNN WEST OR DAVID JOHNSON 662-534-6321

FOR ADVERTISING QUESTIONS KIM SURBER OR DENNIS CLAYTON 662-534-6321

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MASTER GARDENERS to hold ‘tailgating’ events

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SOUTHERN HOMES and well-kept trees go together

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CANNING, PRESERVING are tasty traditions

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OUTDOOR CLASSROOM workshops offered to educators

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ORGANIC SEEDS offer advantages

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WORM COMPOSTING Good for the garden

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MOLES Keeping the pests out of your garden

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FENCES Choosing the right kind for your yard

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SIX STEPS for a container garden

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JEWELWEED and its healing properties

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‘LASAGNA’ Gardening

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ZINNIAS Nearly perfect for everyone

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SPRING GARDEN TIPS for Northeast Mississippi

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SIX WAYS To get rid of fire ants in the vegetable garden

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GARDENING TIPS for growing in North Mississippi

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GROWING VEGETABLES saves money, improves taste

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HERBS the perfect ingredients

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Home &Garden UNION COUNTY

From the Editor Welcome to this issue of Union County Home & Garden.

It contains photos and stories filled with useful information for anyone who loves digging in dirt or who has even a passing interest in working with plants.

We hope you will enjoy it, pass copies on to your friends and thank the Master Gardeners who helped make this magazine possible.

For more copies of this magazine, stop by our office.

General Manager LISA BRYANT Editor J. LYNN WEST Managing Editor DAVID JOHNSON AND

Contributing Writers and Photographers TIM BURRESS CALLIE DANIELS CARL W. HARDEMAN JUDY HARRISON LELIA SCOTT KELLY JOANNE KING RACHEL MITCHELL DENISE PUGH GINA WILLS STANLEY WISE

MISSISSIPPI STATE UNIVERSITY EXTENSION SERVICE Graphic Artist SONNY HARRISON Advertising KIM SURBER DENNIS CLAYTON Office Manager TAMMY HILL

Published by

New Albany Gazette

To build community and improve the quality of life in Union County 130 W. Bankhead St. New Albany, Mississippi 38652 662-534-6321 newalbanygazette.com A Journal Publishing Company product

8 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

ADVERTISERS BNA Bank.................................52 City of New Albany......................2 Coldwell Banker...........................4 Collins Insurance.......................47 Davidson Landscape..................38 Distinctive Designs....................44 Farm Bureau Insurance..............15 Five Star Realty..........................32 Friendly City Tire Pros................38 Gafford Roofing.........................25 George’s....................................22 Greer & Greer............................22 Mission Rehabilitation.................47 MS State Extension Service.........15 NA Medical Group.......................16 Nichols Foods & Deli...................32 NMI/The Gardens.......................49 R&B Affordable Furniture..............5 Riddle Heating & Air...................50 Steel-Con Inc.............................41 The Vintage Market....................22 Union County Heritage Museum....44 Union County Wrecker................49 US Lawns..................................29 Whittington Metal Services...........3 Windham Body Shop..................51 Windham TV & Appliance...........41 Wright Glass & Aluminum...........25

Union County Master Gardeners to hold ‘tailgating demonstrations’ in local communities Have you ever wanted to gain a little knowledge from a master gardener? Do you have questions about your garden or ornamental plants?

Here’s your opportunity to get your questions answered and get to know your local master gardeners at the same time.

The Union County Master

Gardeners have a goal this year to spend time in various communities in the county. Informal “tailgating/ demonstration” events will be conducted at different locations by the master gardeners.

The first Spring session was to be held on Thursday, April 20, 2017 at 5:30 p.m. in the Blue

Springs Park. The topics were repeated at 6: p.m. There is not a cost for the series of events. Two topics will highlight the session: 1) How to Get Rid of Fireants 2) How to Make a Great Mixture for Potting Plants This is your opportunity to get to know some master gardeners

in your community and learn about the Union County Master Gardener Association. Come spend 30 minutes with us for an informative and fun event.

If you are interested in a tailgating/demonstration event for your community, contact the Union County Extension Office at 662-534-1916.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Connecting with 10 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

native plants Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Local ecological health dependent on local plants Story and Photos by Robert Ballard For Union County Green

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k, so many of you gardeners may be familiar with the concept of using native plants in your flower gardens or home landscape. You might even understand, “that feeling of belonging” that natives bring to a garden, or their hardiness and drought tolerance. But let’s take a little deeper look at our native plants, looking beyond their natural beauty and resiliency.

Think about plant life in general. You may remember learning in school that the earth’s green life provides us with the clean air we

Previous pages: Blackeyed Susan Left: Foam flower

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Red buckeye and tiger swallowtail butterfly.

breathe, filters the water that we drink, and provides the first source of energy in the form of leaves. The energy found in the foliage of the earths plants and trees, being consumed by the resident birds and insects, is an important link in the cycle of life.

It is in these associations, many times misunderstand or simply taken for granted that I believe is the “big deal� about native plants. We should understand that our ecology is a mix of herbivores and carnivores, whether insects or mammals. That which eats freely will soon be eaten. It is a checks and balance system designed to prevent any intolerable infestation or species domination.

This checks and balance system only works within a native plant ecology.

The imported exotic species that we have been using for years in our urban landscapes, live happily here outside

Butterfly weed

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of their natural system. However, without natural predation, exotics are capable of un-checked growth, i.e. kudzu, eleagnus, chinese privet, callery pear, displacing those plants that are designed to serve the local ecosystem. Maybe worse is the fact that exotic plants in comparison to natives, do little to sustain our native ecology.

The Earth’s ecology is full of specialized relationships and perhaps most familiar to us is the plant to butterfly partnership. It is astonishing to think that if we lose a species of plant, then it is probable that we will also lose a species of butterfly, and losing a butterfly species will mean the decline of the bird population, no worms for the birds to feed their chicks. With a drop in the bird populations, we lose a control measure for the insect population. Everything is connected!

It’s important that we begin understanding just how specific these relationships are. As gardeners, I suspect most of you are familiar with the monarch butterflies’ dependence upon milkweed for its survival as a

Button Bush and Spicebush butterfly

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Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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species, but perhaps you don’t understand that the monarchs’ specialization is not un-common in our ecology. It just happens to be a popular example because everyone loves the monarchs, right?

We currently see a declining population of native plants as well the partnering insects and birds. We have for years thought of our natives as weeds, nothing more than fodder for the bush-hog or a target for herbicides. Kind of odd I think, since “native” implies that it belongs here.

We define weeds simply as a plant out of its place, so where is that place for native plants but everywhere you look about.

The good news is that we can indeed make a difference. Simply by deciding to include in our landscapes and flower gardens some of North Mississippi’s beautiful native plants, we will quickly strengthen some of our declining populations. Seems to me a small effort, with the net effect of insuring that the generations following will witness the same natural beauty as we have. It is up to us to make some attempt to understand the bigger picture, and commit ourselves toward stewardship of this one planet, this one state, this one county that we all call home.

Tall Goldenrod and Gulf Fritillary butterfly

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Southern homes and well-kept trees go together Story by Callie Daniels Bryant For Union County Green

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t could be argued that a Southern home isn’t complete without a tree or two or several in the yard, ranging from popular Dogwood tree to iconic Magnolia tree to sturdy evergreens like pine.

Homeowners who have trees should pay attention to health and stability of each tree to ensure property won’t be damaged if the trees fall over in a tough storm. Tree maintenance not only improves home safety but also increases property values.

The largest and most common part of tree maintenance is pruning. Homeowners with landscape trees need to prune more often to combine structural integrity with aesthetics.

Each cut can change a tree’s growth so each branch must be removed within reason.

The easiest pruning is cleaning which is removal of dead, diseased or weak branches from the crown of the tree which is the branches extending from the trunk.

There is also thinning which is selective branch removal so light and wind can

penetrate the tree easier. This method eases weight on heavy limbs which prevents accidents and property damage.

Homeowners must be cautious while pruning. Dr. Gary Bachman with Mississippi State University Extension Service advises on its website (extension. msstate.edu) that small brunches and limbs (one inch or less in diameter) can be removed with a single cut using a bypass pruners to encourage a speedy recovery. Dr. Bachman advises the drop cut method for larger and heavier limbs to avoid ripping the tree and stunting its recovery.

With proper pruning, young trees can grow into sturdy and healthy trees with a beautiful natural aesthetics.

Sometimes, trees die. If left alone, dead trees are a risk of property damage and can become a home for pests. If the tree perished from disease or insect, other trees can catch it. To spot a dead tree, check its trunk for damage. As trees age bark falls off and new

bark replaces it. If the trunk is bare and there is smooth wood visible, it can indicate poor health. Bare branches are a giveaway too especially during spring and summer when they should be covered in green leaves and bright flowers. Another noticeable sign is if a tree is leaning suddenly or there are small branches sprouting at the tree’s base.

Finally, large fungus can indicate that the tree has internal rot.

Removing a dead tree is an easy decision, but removing a live tree is a considerable decision since trees take decades to grow. A live tree can be removed if it will interfere with buildings, driveways and utility wires.

In any case, large trees should be removed by a professional tree service for safety of owners and properties.

With all considered, trees are fairly lowmaintenance with proper pruning and a watchful eye on its health. A sturdy tree or two will make any home in the South feel truly Southern year-round.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Canning, preserving part of tasty Southern tradition Story by Callie Daniels Bryant For Union County Green

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anning is a part of a lengthy history in preserving bountiful harvests and successful hunts to get families through winters.

Assistant extension professor at Mississippi State University, Dr. Courtney Crist, said, “There are many types of food preservation. The three main methods of food preservation are freezing, canning and drying. Canning is a type of food preservation.”

Before refrigeration, people invented a stunning variety of techniques to preserve fruits, vegetables and meat. In the art of preserving, these culinary ancestors went from laying fruits and vegetables to dry underneath the sun to salting and smoking meat to heating and then canning fruits and vegetables.

For numerous Southern families, if not all, canning is a part of their culinary history.

Dr. Crist said, “Canning is the process in which foods are placed in jars or cans and heated to a temperature that destroys microorganisms and inactivates enzymes. Pickling is another form of canning that has an increased acidity that makes it difficult for most bacteria to grow.”

The length of time in boiling depends on the acidity of food.

For example, strawberries and tomatoes require a short boiling cycle since their acidity levels are enough to prevent bacterial growth that can lead to botulism, a rare but potentially fatal form of food poisoning.

Low-acid foods such as meat and vegetables can be canned but careful attention must be paid to boiling temperatures. The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) recommends low-acid canned food boiled between 240 and 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

The recommended boiling temperature for high-acid foods such as fruits is 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

For a safer method to canning vegetables, USDA recommends pressure canning where cans are placed in two to three inches of water to boil up to 240 degrees Fahrenheit. Only pressure canners can reach this temperature.

For quality canned food, be sure to buy airtight seal jars and use bruise-free food preferably six to 12 hours postharvest. Meat, poultry and seafood should be chilled before canning as quickly as possible within two days.

What are the benefits of canning and preserving?

Author of award-winning cookbook, Gimme Some Sugar, Darlin’, and editor of Zebra Tales, Laurie Triplette says, “You’re able to save for future, use the freshest ingredients and you can control what goes into these ingredients as well as if you’re trying to make it locally grown or naturally grown in the garden. (Canning) is the best way to do it.”

Canning began as a necessity for Southern families to preserve large quantities of food,

18 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

but now many can as a hobby or as an enjoyable pastime. Home preservation can be a bonus for many.

Dr. Crist adds, “Many home preservers enjoy the convenience of having food stocked in the pantry of their favorite recipes. Home preservations provide opportunities to enjoy certain products that would not normally be in season.

Fresh products might not be in season year round or they may be expensive. Additionally, I think many like the idea of getting back to the basics with their food. They find home canning or preserving satisfying and cost-efficient. People are increasing looking for ways to connect back to the roots of food and agriculture. Home food preservative can be a nice

complementary hobby if those are interested in gardening.”

Through canning, one can turn a jarful of fruits into jam, jelly and preserves and salsa and marmalade, to name a few. The options are seemingly endless; one can even make a grilling sauce through canning.

National Center for Home Food Preservation provides the following recipe on Strawberry Jelly and Crushed Tomatoes.

For a more detailed outline on procedures, visit http://nchfp. uga.edu.

Strawberry Jelly with powdered pectin • 3½ cups strawberry juice (about 3 quart boxes berries) • 1 package powdered pectin • 4½ cups sugar Yield: About 5 or 6 half-pint

jars Procedure: Sterilize canning jars and prepare two-piece canning lids according to manufacturer’s directions.

To prepare juice. Sort and wash fully ripe berries; remove any stems or caps. Crush berries and extract juice.

To make jelly. Measure juice into a kettle. Add pectin and stir well. Place on high heat and, stirring constantly, bring quickly to a full rolling boil that cannot be stirred down.

Add sugar, continue stirring, and heat again to a full rolling boil. Boil hard for 1 minute.

Remove from heat; skim off foam quickly.

Pour hot jelly immediately into hot, sterile jars, leaving ¼ inch headspace. Wipe rims

of jars with a dampened clean paper towel; adjust two-piece metal canning lids. Process in a Boiling Water Canner.

Crushed Tomatoes (with no added liquid) A high-quality product, ideally suited for use in soups, stews, and casseroles.

This recipe is similar to that formerly referred to as “Quartered Tomatoes.”

Quantity: An average of 22 pounds is needed per canner load of 7 quarts; an average of 14 fresh pounds is needed per canner load of 9 pints.

A bushel weighs 53 pounds and yields 17 to 20 quarts of crushed tomatoes-an average of 2¾ pounds per quart.

Procedure: Wash tomatoes

and dip in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds or until skins split. Then dip in cold water slip off skins, and remove cores. Trim off any bruised or discolored portions and quarter. Heat one-sixth of the quarters quickly in a large pot, crushing them with a wooden mallet or spoon as they are added to the pot. This will exude juice. Continue heating the tomatoes, stirring to prevent burning. Once the tomatoes are boiling, gradually add remaining quartered tomatoes, stirring constantly These remaining tomatoes do not need to be crushed. They will soften with heating and stirring. Continue until all tomatoes are added. Then boil gently 5 minutes. Add

bottled lemon juice or citric acid to jars. Add 1 teaspoon of salt per quart to the jars, if desired. Fill jars immediately with hot tomatoes, leaving ½-inch headspace. Adjust lids and process. (Acidification is still required for the pressure canning options; follow all steps in the Procedures above for any of the processing options.)

Although part of our ancestors’ preservation, canning is able to thrive in modern times especially with a huge variety of recipes to create jams, jellies, marmalades, salsas, grilling sauces and more. It is a viable hobby if not a way of life.

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Workshop will show educators how to construct outdoor classrooms at their schools Story and photos by Denise Pugh For Union County Green

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his summer local educators in and around the Union County Extension Office can learn about sustainable living, building an outdoor classroom and becoming part of the growing trend of locally grown food. What baby boomer reading this article would have thought that gardening would be taught in grade schools just like reading, writing and arithmetic. Most of the boomers (those born between 1946 and 1964) were raised close to land. Working in the fields or home backyard gardens were part of the summer expectations. However, the generations coming into adulthood since the 1990’s have been more inundated with electronics, allowing less time for contact with the soil that sustains life.

This workshop will help prepare area educators to return to their schools and install their own outdoor classroom.

You will be entertained and challenged to inform your students about the value and health benefits of locally grown food. These sessions will be taught by MSU professors, area master gardeners and subject matter experts who have a passion for gardening, sharing and doing our part to be good stewards of God’s great creation.

Date of Workshop: Tuesday and Wednesday, June 13 and 14 Location: Union County Extension Office located at 112 Fairground Circle, New Albany, MS 38652 To register: Call 662-534-1916.

Participation is limited to the first 20 registrants who pay the tuition of $30. Participants will earn 14 total contact hours, already approved through Northeast Mississippi Community

College. This will require completing a CEU request form following the workshop and paying $10 for the CEU’s.

Preparing to get the most from these sessions: follow these simple suggestions 1.

Take a walk around the grounds of your school and identify potential garden classroom locations.

2.

Take photos of the site to use in the design and planning sessions.

3.

These sessions will allow you to identify ways to incorporate math, science, consumer science, economics, marketing, and physical education into your curriculum.

Please share this with a teacher in your child’s school. Our children are the gardeners of tomorrow!

Agenda Outdoor Garden Classroom Workshop: Create a garden at your school

Day 1 8 to 9 a.m.: Identifying the location for your classroom: this session will involve an outdoor analysis of the school property, lighting, water, level topography, ease of access for delivery of supplies.

9 to 10:15 a.m.: Designing the outdoor classroom: this session will involve drawing The plans for the garden classroom including number of raised beds, paths, And any hardscaping; and determining the supplies needed to execute theplan.

10:15 to 10:30 a.m. Break 10:30 to noon: Installing the design: this session will involve laying out the

20 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

boundaries with water hoses; marking paths; and leveling the planting area.

Noon until 1 p.m.: Lunch 1 to 2:15 p.m.: Construction of raised bed: this session will involve constructing a 4 x 4 raised bed from 2 x 10 lumber; installing hardware cloth on the bottom; using newspapers as weed block.

2:15 to 2:30 p.m.: Break 2:30 to 4:30 p.m.: Making up the bed: this session involves combining the right soil and amendments for planting. Attention is given to the crop to be grown.

4:30: Adjourn

Outdoor Garden Classroom Workshop: Create a garden at your school Day 2

8: to 10:15 a.m.: Choosing the right plants: this session will involve determining which plants to use; whether to use transplants or seeds; will perennials be used.

Understanding what the LABEL tells you; growing around frost dates.

10:15 to 10:30 a.m.: Break 10:30 to Noon: Planting the beds: understanding and using the square foot garden method for planting the beds Noon to 1 p.m.: Lunch 1 to 2:15 p.m.: Understanding weed control: mulch, compost, recycling 2:15 to 2:30 p.m.: Break 2:30 to 3:30 p.m.: Irrigation: using water-wise methods for delivering the right amount of water at just the right time.

3:30 to 4:30 p.m.: Inspection, insect control, and harvesting the crop

Above, zinnias, broccoli, and cabbage encourage healthy eating along with the beauty of flowers.

You will learn to construct raised beds similar to the ones in this photo at left.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Growing dill is a treat for hamburgers and encourages butterflies in the garden.

The gulf fritillary butterfly finds the Mexican Sunflower irresistible.

Squash provide a tasty meal and offer bountiful flowers for pollinators.

Blueberries are a superfood, easy to grow and a tasty treat.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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Organic seeds offer some advantages over heirloom varieties Story and photos by Rachel Mitchell For Union County Green

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re you the type of gardener who has their “go-to” seeds that are time tested, or do you like to try a variety each year? If you haven’t already, giving organic seeds a try may be something you want to consider.

But what really is the difference between organic and non-organic seeds? What criteria do the seeds have to meet in order to be considered organic, and where does heirloom and hybrid varieties fit in to all of this?

Over the past decade or so, the word organic has become somewhat of a household name. There are organic foods 24 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

in the supermarket, clothes grown with organic cotton, organic cosmetics and even organic baby toys.

While what we consider to be organic farming practices started in the 1920’s in Europe, it gained momentum here in the US, especially in the 60’s and 70’s, leading to the 1990 passing in Congress of the Organic Food Productions Act. As the name implies, the act deals with the production of the food, and not the actual food, or seeds, themselves apart from the seeds and plants being Non-GMO. Having an official organic label means the product, including seeds, would have

to meet certain criteria from the USDA to be certified organic. The requirements deal with the way a product or materials for that product, are grown and processed.

This means that organic does not refer to the type of seed, but rather what was used while growing the plant that the seed came from.

USDA certification has evolved over the years to contain many details that pertain to specific products, for example livestock have specific criteria, plants their own criteria and so forth. Labeled the “Big Three”, the following specifications have been around since 1998 and are

still in effect: That the crop was grown without using synthetic pesticides, is not a genetically modified organism (GMO), and does not use petroleum-based or sewage sludge-based fertilizers.

While all of this seems direct, there has been much debate as to the leniency and effectiveness of the USDA regulations, especially when compared to other countries.

Also, being argued is how long the US can maintain true Non-GMO crops which are open pollinated. An example of this would be corn, whose pollen is carried by the wind, and if GMO corn pollinates Non-GMO corn, the resulting by-product will be GMO corn.

Heirloom seeds refer to seeds that have survived for generations, having been preserved for one or more attributes that gardeners find valuable. Some gardeners believe heirloom seeds to be superior due to the taste, color or nutritional value.

Hybrid seeds are the product of cross pollinating two varieties of plants which

were chosen for one or more qualities. The goal of creating a hybrid is to produce a plant which exceeds the capabilities of the other varieties currently on the market.

Creating a hybrid is different from genetic modification in that GMO plants are altered at the DNA level, and often with things that are not other plant DNA, but instead from an animal or pesticide.

Seeds from Heirloom plants can be saved, planted and will reproduce the plant variety year after year, whereas Hybrid seeds are often sterile, while GMO seeds are completely sterile and will not reproduce the plant.

It is possible to buy seeds, including organic, heirloom and hybrids from a variety of seed companies, which are easy to find with a quick search of Google. A source that many people perhaps have not thought of is the website Etsy.

Etsy is a marketplace for handcrafted goods, and crafting supplies, but there is also a very large variety of seeds that can be purchased from all over the world.

Gardeners can research farming practices in various countries and purchase from seed banks and farms located in that country. There are even seed banks which will send free seeds from heirloom varieties to gardeners, in order to keep the variety alive.

Ultimately, it is up to the gardener to decide what attributes matter most in their garden. Genetic modification can produce hardier crops that are resistant to certain diseases and pests, because of what was used to modify the plants genetics. Hybrid seeds tend to yield consistent results in the plants, fruit and vegetables that they produce. To be considered Heirloom, a seed must have been around for at least 50 years, and therefor has a proven track record. The aspects and results desired vary from gardener to gardener, and it is always best to research the practices of each source seeds are acquired from, and document the results of each plant variety.

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Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

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The more worms, the better Story and photos by Rachel Mitchell For Union County Green

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here is a growing trend among gardeners and farmers and it involves worms, in fact the more worms the better. Many gardeners and farmers know that worms are good for the soil, especially soil in which crops or flowers are planted. After all, worms help aerate the soil by tunneling through the dirt as well as add nitrogen to the soil around them. But did you know that worms can turn organic waste into a high-quality compost?

This type of composting is generally referred to as worm composting, or vermicomposting. It involves using earthworms to turn food scraps and even cardboard and newspaper into compost your plants will love.

If you are interested in trying your hand at worm composting the first thing to consider is a worm habitat. The process can be simplified as much as buying an all-inone kit online that includes everything you need to get started, including the worms.

However, there are other options that are more budget friendly which have shown themselves to be just as effective.

The first order of business is to decide what the worms will be housed in, keeping in mind the container does not need to be clear, as worms are sensitive to light. The worms environment needs to be kept at a fairly even temperature, although worms can tolerate a range from about 32 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

Some who have composting worms, keep them in stackable housing which looks something like a plastic bee hive, but there are also round and square containers used. Worm bins can be made from large plastic storage containers, and there is a variety of DIY videos, as well as written instructions available online.

After you have settled on a way to house the worms, bedding should be put into the bottom of the container. Bedding materials include such things as cardboard,

paper, straw, leaves and aged manure. These materials provide a source of carbon in the bin, and are also absorbent to help with moisture control. Eventually the bedding materials will also be composted, as they are also a food source for the worms.

Providing the worms with a quality food source is important, and materials such as fruit and vegetable peelings, crushed egg shells and coffee grounds can be used.

Just as is the case with other composting methods fatty or oily foods, meat and dairy products and animal or human waste should not be used to given to the worms.

In the body of a worm there is sand and grit which help with digestion as well as microbes, all of which work together to convert the food and paper scraps into high quality compost. It is not only acceptable but preferential to add to the food supply of the worms daily. This can reduce the food and paper an average household throws away by up to one-third.

Some of the benefits this type of composting has over other types is that it

does not require a large amount of space, so that even a rooftop garden can be the beneficiary of nutrient rich compost.

26 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

Tim Burress, Union County Master Gardner, has been composting using worms for about 10 years and has about 6 worm bins. Burress says that he likes using the vermicompost on his plants because it is filled with micronutrients and soil microbes. Worm composting “tea” is made by soaking worm castings in water either in a porous bag or directly in the water.

Burress said that he uses this tea to water plants with, pre-soak bare plant roots before planting them, and also uses it as a foliar spray on roses to help with fungal problems.

Red Wigglers are the type of worms that Burress uses because he says they are the hardest working, and most efficient.

Burress writes in “Composting 101” that his worm bin is a big blue tub with a lid in which he drilled one-eighth inch holes into. He added shredded newspaper that he misted with water, peat moss, vegetable and fruit scraps, egg shells and coffee grounds. On top of this Burress writes that he then put 200 to 300 hundred red wiggler worms, a cup of cornmeal and another layer of lightly misted shredded newspaper. Burress adds newspaper and food scraps to his worm bin once a week and tosses it with a trowel. Burress reports that each worm bin yields 10 gallons of compost every 6 weeks or so.

Burress recommends visiting a worm farm if you are interested in starting your own worm composting bins, as well as the books “Worms Eat My Garbage” by Mary Appelhof and “Let It Rot, The Gardeners Guide to Composting”

by Stu Campbell.

Burress regularly gives demonstrations on vermicomposting, and if you are interested you can contact him for more information.

So you think you have moles Story and photos by Stanley Wise, retired Extension Director For Union County Green

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lot of things come out of hibernation in the spring time, and not just couch potatoes.

About the time we get ready to enjoy working in the yard or garden, pests show up as well. Yes, I know they are part of nature’s cycle of life, but the truth is, we don’t live in caves anymore.

One of these pests is moles. They are just trying to get an honest meal of earthworms, but can cause us plenty of grief in the process. It’s hard to walk across a yard full of mole runs and they can harm the sod by their constant tunneling just beneath the surface.

Moles feed on earthworms, grubs and other insects. They tunnel just beneath the surface creating a mounded mole tunnel across your yard, often times called “mole runs.” They also tunnel deeper between these runs, uniting the tunnels.

When excavating deeper tunnels, moles often leave mounds of dirt on the surface, causing even more problems.

Trapping is still the most cost-effective and safest method of removing moles if you do not want to harm your beneficial earthworms. Not all tunnels are traveled regularly so it is important to find the main daily run. This is accomplished by simply making a step on the tunnels to firm the soil back down and checking each morning to find which one is used daily.

Then set the trap on that tunnel. If you are not successful after a couple of mornings, reset the trap in another location.

There is a product called “mole gel bait” with the active ingredient being warfarin that is packaged similar to a caulking tube that you can inject the gel into the tunnel and as the mole crawls through it he gets the gel on his face and feet which

he attempts to lick off and ultimately is poisoned. Caution must be taken though since warfarin is an anti-coagulant (the same as in rat poison) and other animals such as cats and dogs may also dig it up.

Another bait type product that has appeal is one that is shaped, textured, and even smells and taste similar to earthworms.

You simply make a small hole into the tunnel and drop one of these earthworm type baits into the tunnel. It is marketed as Talpirid and contains bromethalin as the active ingredient.

If you want to learn more about controlling moles you can call my office at 534-1916 or you can log on to MSUCARES.COM and search the site for the latest information on mole control.

Spring is definitely in the air…now where did I hang my mole traps?

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

27

Fencing lessons

O

Story and photos by Callie Daniels Bryant For Union County Green

ne of many responsibilities of being a homeowner is the construction and maintenance of a fence around the house and its yard. A fence can provide privacy, security and charm with an eyecatching design.

Before building a fence, be sure to ascertain your property lines to not accidentally claim neighbors’ territory or public space.

City of New Albany’s code enforcement, building inspector and zoning administrator, Eric Thomas, said, “You can put a fence on the property line but I would make sure you had the property surveyed to know where they are. That way you will not have any problems out of your neighbors.”

He added that those constructing a fence in or near the city should call 811 before digging into ground.

“811 will locate utility lines - gas, electric, water and phone cable,” he said.

The city of New Albany also has a note that dictates that those in residential or local business districts should not have any fence, wall or shrubbery that restricts vision between three-and-a-half feet to 15 feet above street level within 20 feet of intersections of right-of-way lanes of two streets or railroads or of a street and a railroad right-of-way line.

In keeping with this ordinance, the fences can be six feet tall in the backyard and three-andhalf feet tall in the front yard.

If one lives in a neighborhood with a Homeowner’s Association, one should check with it in case the HOA may want the side of the fence without post and rails to show outward towards the street. Also check for an appropriate distance from the sidewalk or street to install a fence.

Once the legal work is complete, property lines established and approval is met all around, fence installation can begin!

Today, there is a tremendous amount of variety in choosing materials for a fence. The fence can be made out of wood and composite wood, vinyl, ornamental metal and steel chain link.

The material, wood, is a mainstay for fence construction although it requires the most maintenance over other materials. However with proper treatment, especially on pressure-treated wood for longevity, a wooden fence can last for 28 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

GROUNDS CARE & LANDSCAPING FOR APARTMENT COMMUNITIES, RETAIL, HOA’S, LOCAL BUSINESSES AND MORE years. To cut down on costs, look into reclaiming wood boards from owners tearing down their older fences. These older boards can be cut down from six feet to four or five feet of salvageable wood to reinforce into a new fence with a fresh wood stain.

There is also composite which is a product made from two or more materials. There are composite fences made with engineered wood created out of fiber and plastic.

Those fences are environmentally friendly although they cannot be recycled. These fences are more expensive than pressure-treated wood and may be harder to work with.

To deviate from wooden fences, there is the vinyl which comes with a variety of colors and is durable through seasons. Vinyl is easy to hose down, too, and requires little repair. The initial cost of vinyl is high but can be arguably cheaper in the long run due to fewer repairs needed.

Homeowners can install ornamental metal fences to create a stunning look. Ornamental metal is low maintenance and the most durable. In fact, there are ornamental metal fences that have survived the Civil War for sale online.

For those who want utility can purchase steel chain link fences.

These fences are easy to install with a price range of $7 to $15 per foot. These fences can be bought in black, brown or dark green which can appear softer on eyes than silver. Homeowners don’t have to sacrifice curb appeal for utility; these fences can be used as trellis for climbing vines such as morning glories or moon flowers.

Be sure to check with the city to avoid planting flowers or vines that are invasive to that particular region.

With this much variety to choose from, fence construction and installation is rarely boring for a keen homeowner.

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29

Six steps for container garden success For Union County Green

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ou don’t need a large plot of land to grow fresh vegetables and herbs. Herbs are a common choice for container gardeners, but many vegetables lend themselves well to container gardening too. With some thought to selecting bush or dwarf varieties, almost any vegetable can be adapted to growing in a pot. Vegetables that take up little space, such as carrots, radishes and lettuce, or crops that bear fruits over a long period of time, like tomatoes and peppers, are perfect for container gardens.

What you can grow in containers is limited only by the size of the container and your imagination. How about a Summer Salad container? Felder Rushing carries one around in a bucket. Plant a tomato, a cucumber and some parsley or chives all in a large container. They grow well together and have the same water and sun requirements.

Here are six steps for container garden success 1. When you’re ready to begin potting up vegetables and herbs, go for seedlings that have already been started, rather than starting from seed.

Seedlings will save you lots of time because plants are six weeks old or more when you put them in the pot, and you’ll begin harvesting much sooner. You can find a wide variety of veggie and herb seedlings available at your local garden retailers and nurseries near you.

2. Use a premium quality potting

mix. Don’t skimp here, a quality mix holds moisture and drains well, giving plant roots the perfect balance of air, moisture, and stability to grow a great harvest. Read bag labels to look for quality ingredients: sphagnum peat moss, aged (composted) bark, perlite, lime or dolomite, and sometimes moisture-holding crystals. Quality potting mix stays fluffy all season long. It does not contain actual dirt that would compact with frequent watering.

3. Pick the right container. It should be affordable to buy and fill, and large enough to accommodate your plants as they mature.

You can make almost anything into a container — flower pots, pails, buckets, wire baskets, bushel baskets, washtubs, window planters, even large food cans. Larger veggies, like tomatoes and eggplants, will need a larger container, at least 5 gallons

30 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

for each plant. When in doubt, bigger is always better, the plants will look better and last longer because the roots will have more room to grow. Be sure that the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom.

4. Feed your plants. Even if your potting mix came with fertilizer already mixed in, you may need to feed your plants.

Some potting mixes include just enough fertilizer to give plants a quick boost when they’re starting out. Mixes designed to feed for several months run out sooner in hot weather with frequent watering. You can add a slow release fertilizer or you can water with that blue water stuff.

5. Place pots in an area where they will receive at least 6 hours of full sunshine. The sun provides energy for production and the making sugars, acids, and other compounds responsible for the fullest flavor. Make sure

pots on a deck or porch get enough sunlight and move them to a sunny spot if shade encroaches.

6. Water regularly, vegetables are at least 90% water. They may need daily watering in hot weather and the easiest way to do this is set up a drip system on a timer. It’s a little more work on the front end, but it makes for as close to auto-pilot watering as you can get. Be sure to water before the sun goes down because leaves will need to dry before nightfall to keep down on fungi and other diseases.

Ok, now that you have the basics down, let’s plant a container garden. Here are some veggie and herb varieties to get your container gardens growing.

•Eggplant: Hansel Mini eggplant •Green Beans: (Pole beans give a higher yield in a small footprint) Blue Lake, French Dwarf •Leaf Lettuce: Buttercrunch, Bibb •Peppers: Bell, Sweet Banana, Jalapeno •Tomatoes: Patio, Bush Early Girl, Bush Goliath, Better Boy, Celebrity, Bella Rosa, and Sweet 100 •Basil, rosemary, oregano, parsley, or whatever your favorite herb might be Author Unknown (Some handwritten notes found in a book from a used bookstore)

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

31

The healing properties of Jewelweed

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ewelweed is best known for its skin healing properties. The leaves and the juice from the stem of Jewelweed are used by herbalists as a treatment for poison ivy, poison oak and other plant induced rashes, as well as many other types of dermatitis. Jewelweed works by counterreacting with the chemicals in other plants that cause irritation. Poultices and salves made from Jewelweed have been and still are a folk remedy for bruises, burns, cuts, eczema, insect bites, sores, sprains, warts, and ringworm. Jewelweed is a smooth leafed annual, growing 3-5 foot tall. Its leaves are oval and round-toothed with the lower ones opposite, upper ones alternate. The flowers which are a bit trumpet shaped, hang from the plant much as a jewel from a necklace.

Pale Jewelweed has yellow flowers, spotted Jewelweed have orange flowers with dark

red dots. The seeds will ‘pop’ when touched and that is where the common name name “Touch-Me-Nots” came from. The Spotted Jewelweed variety is most commonly used for treating poison ivy rashes although the Pale Jewelweed has been noted to have some medicinal properties also.

Jewelweed blooms May through October in most of the southeast. It is found most often in moist woods, usually near poison ivy or stinging nettle. It is said that wherever you find poison ivy, you will find Jewelweed, however this is not always true as Jewelweed will not grow in dry places for long, and does not do well in direct sunlight. Poison Ivy will grow in sun or shade. Jewelweed often grows on the edge of creek beds. There is plenty of jewelweed in the wild, and it is not hard to find once you learn to identify it. I have also read that the garden variety

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of impatiens may have the same properties, but not as concentrated. However, the garden variety is much more suitable for cultivation as its growth is easier to contain.

When you are in the field and find you have been exposed to poison ivy, poison oak, or stinging nettle you can reach for the jewelweed plant and slice the stem, then rub its juicy inside on exposed parts. This will promptly ease irritation and usually prevents breakout for most people.

Jewelweed or an infusion made from boiling the leaves of Impatiens may be frozen for later use. Brew chopped spotted jewelweed in boiling water until you get a dark orange liquid, strain the liquid, and pour into ice trays. When you have a skin rash, rub it with a jewelweed cube and you will be amazed with its healing properties.

It will keep in the freezer for up to a year.

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You can also preserve the infusion by canning it in a pressure cooker.

Jewelweed does not dry well however, due to its high moisture and oil content. Do not make alcoholic tinctures from Jewelweed because some people have had a bad reaction using jewelweed with alcohol. You can also make jewelweed soap. “The Results of a Clinical Study, in which a 1:4 jewelweed preparation was compared with other standard poison ivy treatments for its effectiveness. Of 115 patients treated with jewelweed, 108 responded more readily to the topical application of this medication and were entirely relieved of their symptoms within 2 or 3 days after the institution of treatment. It was concluded that jewelweed is an excellent substitute for ACTH and the corticosteroids in the treatment of poison ivy dermatitis. The active principle in jewelweed responsible for this activity remains unidentified.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

33

‘Lasagna’ gardening is not Italian Story and photos by Joanne King, Adams County Master Gardener For Union County Green

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asagna Gardening: Saves work, energy, time, and money!

No tilling or hard digging is

necessary!

The ground stays cool and damp!

Regular watering is not needed!

Gives you a place to recycle – saves from filling up the landfills!

Your soil is shielded from the baking sun, drying winds, and pounding rain!

This method also releases materials which feed earthworms. As the earthworms digest leaves, they deposit earthworm castings, a humus-rich soil amendment. You just build the right environment, provide the food, and the earthworms do the rest.

The earthworms will even tunnel into compacted areas and loosen up the soil so that air and water can enter.

Even plant roots can use these tunnels as they grow outward in search of air, water, and nutrients.

seaweed, kelp, chopped stalks, straw, wood ashes, used teabags, cotton gin residue, etc., etc. Layer them, stockpile them in “out of the way” places until you need them, or add them to your compost pile.

Do not use bones, fat, fish, meat, or cheese.

Creating a garden bed: I start with heavy sheets of WET newspaper when laying it down, making sure that all of the area to be planted is covered, with the edges overlapping so weeds won’t get through any gaps. You can wet the newspapers in a wheelbarrow, or put the newspapers in small plastic bags with the

of beds grow to double-digits, it can become a full time job.

When we moved to our present home in 2002 we had about 80 trees cut down. My idea was to build beds around the tree stumps. I did all of this with NO tilling – just “Lasagna Gardening”. Often I put the plants into the ground and then built up the bed around the plants, using the wet newspapers to control the grass and weeds.

Each year I put another row of newspapers around the bed and put new plants in where last year’s newspapers had been. That way the ground has already been tilled up by the earthworms and each year my bed gets larger and the plants become more plentiful.

I’ve propagated most of the plants and have hired no one to do the work for me.

I know that taking the Master Gardener Class in 2001 enabled me to have the knowledge and the ambition to make so many beds in such a short time.

I have produced enough plants to share in many ways, in many places, and on many occasions.

Taking the class also taught me that there was a lot I didn’t know and that I still had a lot to learn, but what we do as Master Gardeners is to teach what we do know.

We also have a willingness to find the answers to help others when we can.

A cross section of a finished lasagna bed would show alternating layers of peat moss and organic materials, beginning with layers of wet newspapers, and continuing with other materials. Some of the materials depending on availability would be: peat moss, barn litter, compost, grass clippings, chopped leaves, and wood ashes.

“Food often tastes better when you know where it came from.”

Lasagna Gardening is for: Busy people who have the urge to put their hands into the soil People who are “power tool challenged” Anyone who is unable to garden in the traditional manner because of age or physical limitations New gardeners The environmentally-conscious Those of us who are over-stressed or overworked Lasagna gardening is layering, or another way to compost: Take peat moss, animal manures, shredded leaves (Leaves can be shredded with a weed eater in a trash can, or by using a lawn mower.), other mulches, materials recycled from other garden and household wastes, such as grass clippings, coffee grounds, eggshells, vegetable peelings, hay, sawdust,

tops open and leave them out in the rain.

Then I put peat moss, which I buy in bags, over the newspapers. Then I add a layer of mulch or leaves depending upon what I have at the time. Then I add another layer of peat moss, another layer of mulch, and so on until the desired height is achieved.

You can build up to approximately 18” to 24” high. You can also scatter a layer of bone meal and wood ashes to provide extra phosphorus and potassium.

It’s so easy that you can get carried away and get so many beds and gardens going that you can’t maintain them all.

Besides the maintenance which the established plants require, “Lasagna Beds” need new layers of mulch each year to provide fresh nutrients to the soil and to suppress weed growth.

It is one thing to collect materials for a small home garden, but when the numbers

34 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

Note: The above article contains brief quotations or phrases from a book entitled “Lasagna Gardening” by Patricia Lanza.

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Zinnias are nearly perfect for everyone Story and photos by Carl Wayne Hardeman, Tennessee Master Gardener For Union County Home & Garden

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innias are just about the perfect flower. You don’t have to have a green thumb to grow them. You just need a little space, a little fertilizer, some seeds, a lot of sunshine, a little water now and then, and a little faith and patience.

They come in all sizes, shapes, heights, and colors and are profuse and prolific bloomers. They are hardy and need little care other than watering. They do not need weeding as weeds do not grow under them if planted close enough together, just like squash in your garden. http:// www.uvm.edu/pss/ppp/articles/zinnias.htm As soon as the ground warms up around the first of May, cover the soil with a few inches of organic material and till that in to a depth of about three to four inches. Hand scatter the seeds, then walk them for good seed-to-soil contact, and keep them damp until they sprout and have the first set of true leaves.

My favorites are White Wedding, Green Envy, and any of the Dahlia or Pompon cultivars and any free seeds like the ones donated by gardener Renea Sain. Truth is I like all zinnias, like Julio Iglesias sang in “To All The Girls I’ve Loved Before.”

Wikipedia says there are 20 species in the Zinnia genus and over 100 cultivars.

You gotta find something you like in all that. http://www.crosmanseed.com/zinnia. htm My in-laws in the Hurricane community of northwest Pontotoc County Mississippi, Ralph and Opal Graham, planted the most beautiful beds of zinnias I have ever seen. That is what got me interested. Folks driving by would sometimes stop and admire them – the zinnias and my in-laws.

36 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

As beautiful as the flowers are, they also attract bees, butterflies, moths, wasps, bluebirds, and goldfinches for yet more color and interest.

This year the Director of Parks and Recreation here in Dragonville let me conduct a demonstration and experiment.

His workers prepared a 100-foot bed in the middle of a median at the north end of Peterson Lake Rd, and I agreed to plant and tend the zinnias if they would water them whenever they watered the grass in the median.

So far it has been a huge success. Just hope no one wrecks while driving by.

They are in full bloom and covered in

bees and other pollinators. I have put in very little money and effort, and have shown what could be done in grassy medians both to add more beauty and interest and to save money by not having to mow. Now to convince them to plant an entire median.

Just me dreaming again, but I wish we had a local Zinnia Enthusiast and Sharing Team (ZEST). We could share knowledge, seeds, and transplants, and we could save money by buying seeds in bulk and sharing. But Mimi says I don’t need yet another nonpaying job. Any volunteers to organize this?

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

37

Spring garden tips for North Mississippi Story by Lelia Scott Kelly, Ph.D. MSU Extension For Union County Home & Garden

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y this time all able gardeners should be getting caught up with all those spring clean-up chores. Have you done the weeding, fertilizing, mulching, transplanting, pruning and all those other activities that seem to pile-up this time of year? Have you dug up and separated all those overgrown perennials?

Have you put into motion all those grand

plans you formulated in your mind as you lounged in front of the fire this winter?

If not, don’t fret. The gardening season is just beginning and you have plenty of time. Enjoy the season. Do what you are able to do and don’t think about the rest.

In a few more weeks all danger of frost will be past and it will be safe to plant annual vines like moonflower, morning glory, scarlet runner beans, and black-

eyed Susan vine (Thunbergia). All of these require support such as a trellis, wire or string. These annual vines are easy to grow and can be used in many ways in the garden: to accent a doorway or other entryway, to dress-up a mailbox, lamppost or other structure, to provide visual interest to walls or fences, and to draw the eye upward in the landscape.

Pick a spot that needs some vertical

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interest and seasonal color. The location should receive full sun and have welldrained soil. There are other choices of annual vines that can be used ornamentally. How about the small-fruited ornamental gourds, the firecracker vine (Mina lobata), the attractive whiteflowered luffa gourd vine, the beautiful hyacinth bean vine, the old-timey cypress vine, or, if you started them early enough, the fragrant sweet pea?

Another spring activity you might consider is making a moss covered container. It is simple to make one of these spiffy little garden accessories. Look for green sheet moss at a florist’s shop or a crafts store or do like I do and collect fresh moss from the woods. I use a flatblade shovel or just my fingers to gently scrape the green moss from the ground.

Try to keep it together and not break it apart as you remove as much of the soil as possible. Wrapping these sheets of moss around plastic or clay pots, baskets, or wooden crates can transform these items into charming centerpieces. All you need to attach the moss to the container is white glue or you could use a hot glue gun if you’re the impatient type. Bark, twigs and raffia wraps can be added to the container to create interesting shapes or textural contrast. Woodsy-type plants like ferns, violets, or any rustic-type floral arrangement look great in these mosscovered containers.

Over time, the moss will fade and turn brown. To keep the moss looking fresh, spray the surface of the moss with this mixture: combine 1 and one half cups of water with 3 drops of green food coloring and 1 drop of yellow food coloring. Lightly mist the moss with the dye and let it dry.

Now is the time to mulch perennial beds to control weeds and conserve moisture. I use pine needles, as I live next to a huge pine thicket. Use what you have handy as mulch. If you have a large lawn and an abundance of grass clippings, use those; but be sure to let the clippings thoroughly dry before you pack them around your plants.

I don’t use my grass clippings as mulch very often because my lawn has many weeds (and weed seeds). I’m sure your lawn doesn’t have that problem, so mulch away!

Of course, pine bark and hardwood barks are available commercially and work well also. Apply mulch to a depth of 4 inches and keep mulch off crowns of perennials.

Fertilize all spring-flowering shrubs and trees after they bloom. Use a 15-15-15 fertilizer on deciduous shrubs and trees and an azalea/camellia acid fertilizer on evergreens. Follow recommendations on the fertilizer for application rates. Do not prune summer-flowering shrubs like buddleia (butterfly bush) and althea (Rose of Sharon) after these have fully leafed out or you will disturb growth and bloom of the plant. Prune spring-flowering shrubs like camellia, azalea, rhododendron,

spirea, forsythia and others after they finish blooming.

Late April or early May, depending on the weather is when you become serious about getting that warm-season vegetable garden planted—up to now, our excuses have been too wet, too cold, too weedy, too lazy or “sorry” as my mama refers to people who do not display the appropriate “get-up-and-get” attitude when a job is to be done. After years of practice I know what vegetables my family will eat and how much I need to grow for fresh eating, for freezing and canning. If you need some guidance on this, go to the county Extension office and ask for the “Garden Tabloid.” It shows the yield in pounds of various vegetables for a 100-foot row. If you preserve your vegetables and want to know how many quarts you can get from a bushel of corn, for instance, you need the Extension publication “Complete Guide to Home Canning.” Plant only what your family will eat or you may wind up in the predicament I found myself in several years ago when I over planted zucchini squash. I brilliantly took care of the abundant harvest by stealthily leaving piles of squash on the front seats of unlocked cars parked at my son’s little league baseball games!

Spring is the time to get a head start on those gardening chores so you can enjoy the fruits of your labor in the weeks to come.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

39

Getting rid of ants in your vegetable garden Story by Tim Burress For Union County Home & Garden

A

nts invading your home or garden can be quite frustrating. In the vegetable garden, they feed on nectarfilled flowers, sweet tasting vegetables and fruits and in the home they get into anything and everything they can. No doubt, ants can prove to be beneficial to the gardener by feeding on destructive garden pests such as caterpillars, spiders and small insects, but some species of ants like black garden ants live together with the aphids for their honeydew. In your vegetable garden ants sometimes even “farm” aphids, moving them onto better plants. Ants collect the sweet honeydew that aphids secrete after sucking plant sap. In this case, the ants are actually inviting a notorious pest to come and live in the garden. Then, if that’s not enough, ants make tunnels and nests in your soil and undermine roots. The most annoying thing about ants is they bite you when you step on them accidentally; in fact, you won’t get a chance to wipe away the ants, as they live in groups and swarm you before you know what’s happening.

Studying ants is an amazing lesson in survival. If ants encounter a substance that kills them or forms a barrier, they set to work and pile up enough of each other, dead or alive, to make a bridge to cross. Ants are some of the more intelligent and cunning insects that man has had to deal with. Now having said all this, there are over 14,000 ant species worldwide. Some are useful as biological control in farming, many have painful bites and some eat crops.

Controlling these pint sized monsters in the home and garden is the focus here, so no matter which type of ants you have, most of them continually 40 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

scout around searching for food and if you see one, it’s probably left a scent trail and the rest of them will be on their way.

There are several methods for killing ants and I have listed some of the most effective methods that I have found for you to try.

1.

The method of drowning the garden ants with boiling water is practical for small ant colonies. For one ant mound, you will need about 3 gallons of boiling water. Pour boiling water in the ant hills and kill them you will.

2.

Collect citrus peelings (orange, lemon, etc.) and grind them with water and allow to sit for 24 hours. Strain the liquid and spray it over the ant mound. This method is an effective natural remedy for getting rid of carpenter ants and other garden ants.

3.

Spraying a mixture containing borax is another effective way to kill garden ants. For this purpose, combine equal amounts of borax and sugar with water and spray the mixture randomly in the garden or wherever you see ants.

Sugar attracts the ants to feed on the mixture and the borax kills the ants.

Watch your eyes, nose, use gloves and wash hands afterwards. Borax can also be mixed with peanut butter or something sweet, such as honey, meaning when the ants eat it, they take it back to their nest to share with other ants, hopefully poisoning all in the nest.

4.

Grits or hot cereals are a perfect choice for getting rid of ants in the yard and garden. After ants feed on this hot cereal, it expands in the stomach and kills them. Ok, to my knowledge this one doesn’t work. I tried it and sat around waiting for the

ants to explode and it never happened, much to my dismay.

5.

Silly as it sounds, I have been told this one works. You can supposedly control ants by using scented baby powder. They say any kind of fragrance is a repelling agent for ants. So, spray baby powder, cinnamon, or pepper mixed with vinegar to repel garden ants.

6.

Diatomaceous earth will kill them and keep them away. I have not tried this remedy yet because of the cost factor. It is pricy and I am currently looking for a source that is affordable. This particular remedy does appear to have the most good

feedback of all the organic remedies.

You can get it at the feed store and most garden centers. It is completely safe as it is very, very small seashells.

The sharp edges get between their body joints and they “bleed” to death.

They say it works on all bugs that are jointed - or segmented. Diatomaceous earth sprinkled on ants’ trails supposedly kills ants by dehydration when they’re back in their nest.

In case, these methods do not work, you can use insecticidal sprays. I know it’s not the natural way to control

ants but, if nothing is working, you can use chemical insecticides for killing garden ants. Baits and mound treatments are the two best ways to dispose of ants. Baits are the more economical of the two and if you have patience you can get them under control this way.

Baits are usually broadcast over the infested area with a spreader and must be done on a regular basis, at least once a month. You can also spot treat the mounds if you have “ants in your pants” and can’t wait.

These chemicals can be used as sprays and also come in granules.

Some examples are Talstar, Amdro Bait, Advion, Spectracide Once and Done, Come & Get It Bait, Sevin Concentrate Bug Killer, Bonide Eight Insect Control, Permethrin (38% concentrate) Hi Yield 38 Plus Ortho Orthene Fire Ant Killer, Bayer Fire Ant Killer, Bengal Ultra Dust Fire Ant Killer, and Terro Fire Ant Killer. *Sprinkle dry product on and around mound as directed on label.

Do not disturb mounds before treatment. *Depending on the size of the mound, it takes 1 to 2 gallons of water-insecticide.

As always please read the labels and follow them to the letter, remember more is not better. When spraying chemical of any kind, please wear protective clothing and eye protection.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

41

Gardening tips for growing in North Mississippi Story by Lelia Scott Kelly, Ph.D. MSU Extension For Union County Home & Garden

Flowers I bet you have spent a good part of late winter pouring over those seed and plant catalogs. As the weather moderates and the soil becomes workable, it is time to put those grand plans for a new flower bed into action. A basic procedure to follow to maximize the probability of success for that new bed is outlined in the table “Seven Easy Steps for Flower bed Preparation” listed below. Preparing the soil correctly is the key to success—it’s like the foundation of a house—“fortify” it and it will support your plants well.

Container Gardens If you hauled all your tender, outdoor, pot plants indoors for the winter, now is a good time to start, pruning, repotting and fertilizing these plants to bring them out of the winter uglies. How to tell when it’s time to repot? A good clue is visible roots at the top of the pot or roots protruding from the drain hole. If you’re unsure, pop the root ball out of the pot and examine.

If you see any roots winding around the root ball it is time to repot. When repotting use a pot at least twice the diameter of the old one.

Tropical plants like allamanda, ixora, hibiscus, mandevilla and others should be cut back and fertilized now so they will be trim, neat and ready to grow when you move them outdoors.

Trees and Shrubs If you haven’t pruned evergreen shrubs yet, (those without showy spring flowers) it may be done this month. Try not to remove all the leaf area on broadleaf evergreens like burford holly, cleyera and boxwood. Always prune so the top is narrower than the bottom to allow light to reach the lower branches and to keep the plants from being top heavy and 42 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

unsightly. Wait until after flowering to prune azaleas, rhododendrons, camellias, forsythias, spireas and other springblooming shrubs.

Prune only dead, broken, or wayward limbs on shade and flowering trees.

Mulch newly planted or established trees and shrubs with pine straw or shredded bark. Do not allow the mulch to pack against the trunk. Pine straw packed against a tree trunk also provides the perfect haven for the vole (a stubby tailed mouse) to chew away on the bark.

Azalea Madness Few sights are as grand as a garden of azaleas in full bloom. It’s an effect easily destroyed, however, by discordant color combinations.

Azaleas are showy plants, making the arrangement of their colors critical to creating a pleasing effect. Just like the clothes you wear, certain colors work together and others don’t.

Combining colors of azaleas, to some degree, is a matter of personal taste.

However, there are some general rules of good design you should be aware of, if you want your yard to have a pleasing and professional look. The most common mistake people make when using azaleas in the landscape is to plant one of every color of the rainbow.

The simplest way to use azaleas is to use one color of azalea per planting area.

If you just can’t help yourself and you want to combine colors remember it is a bit tricky--so separate the colored groups by using groups of white azaleas between the colored groups. White highlights any adjacent color and effectively separates opposing colors.

If you are planting azaleas close to your house, another important consideration is to choose colors compatible with the color

of your home.

Vegetable and Herbs Even if your parsley plant remained green through winter in your garden, you can’t count on it for long. As soon as the weather gets warm, parsley will grow tall, bloom, and go to seed. Set out transplants when frost is no longer a danger. Pick from last year’s plants as long as possible so the new ones can get established.

When it comes to buying vegetable transplants, bigger isn’t always better.

Choose the compact, well proportioned plants, not the tall ones that have become root-bound. The transplant without flowers will perform better, and a young healthy plant is a better bet than an older, stressed one. Watch for signs of insects or diseases.

Fruit Bundles of bare-root strawberry plants are now available at local garden centers.

Set plants 12 to 18 inches apart at the proper depth, so the surface of the soil is midway between the crown and the roots. Mulch to conserve moisture, control weeds and prevent the soil splash back that can contribute to fruit disease spread.

Mulching also makes for clean, not dirty strawberries that can be eaten right in the garden without washing!

Seven Easy Steps for Flower bed Preparation 1. Remove all existing weeds and grass by application of an herbicide or the oldfashioned way with a shovel or hoe.

2. Till the bed area thoroughly as deep as the tines on the tiller will allow.

3. Add a 3-4” layer of organic matter in the form of sphagnum peat moss, rotted sawdust, compost or other organic material and till in thoroughly

4. Take a soil sample and submit for analysis.* 5. Time to sow seed or plant. ** 6. Water thoroughly.

7. Mulch to control weeds, conserve moisture and make your new flowerbed neat and attractive. *Soil sampling of any new bed area is highly recommended because it eliminates

any guesswork when it comes to fertilizer or liming recommendations. Carefully follow the recommendations on the soil report. **Follow seed pack sowing instructions.

When planting container plants or cell pack transplants, be careful to plant them only as deep as the root ball and press the soil firmly around the roots.

Lelia Scott Kelly, Ph.D., writes North Mississippi Gardening Tips monthly and is a Horticulture Specialist with the Mississippi State University Extension Service. Her office is in the North Mississippi Research & Extension Center, Verona.

Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

43

Growing own vegetables saves money, improves taste Story by MSU Extension For Union County Home & Garden

T

here are many good reasons for growing a vegetable garden in Mississippi. A garden offers the opportunity to enjoy vegetables at their freshest. Sometimes only minutes elapse between harvest, preparation, and eating.

On the other hand, most fresh vegetables available at the grocery store travel about 1,800 miles between producer and consumer, and this travel often occurs over a period of several days. There’s a lot to be said for “homegrown” freshness.

Vegetable gardens are traditional in Mississippi. When the state was more rural, most of the family’s food was grown at home.

Today, vegetable gardens are often thought of as a form of family recreation. Many older Mississippians grow gardens that are much too large for their own use just to have fresh vegetables for

GREAT FOSSILS AT THE MUSEUM

family, friends, and others who are unable to garden.

Here is what some of today’s Mississippi gardeners have to say about their gardens and why they garden: “We have enough for our family, plus some to share; what more could you ask?”

“There’s no way to keep count of the people who stop to visit my garden and talk awhile since it is on the side of a field road that leads to a catfish pond. I was so proud when I was told it was the prettiest garden they had seen. I have filled three freezers and canned more than 300 jars of vegetables.”

“I have always had a love for gardening. I have helped in caring for the family garden ever since I was large enough to help plant and work in a garden.”

“I enjoy giving vegetables to the elderly, shut-ins, neighbors, and

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June 10

10 A.M. - 2 P.M. Free Admission 114 Cleveland Street, New Albany, MS 38652 (662) 538-0014 • www.ucheritagemuseum.com 44 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

402 Main Street, Ecru, MS 38841 P: (662) 200-2093 F: (662) 200-2333 distinctivedesignsecru@gmail.com Todd and Amber Nowlin, Owners

friends.”

“I enjoy people visiting my garden. Some come just to enjoy seeing it, others to learn better ways to garden.”

“I have gardened over 50 years and still do my own work. The hard work and good food keep me healthy. I save some money, but I receive other benefits that are greater and that cannot be bought.”

“We give more vegetables away than we keep. We have a large family, five children, 13 grandchildren, and six greatgrandchildren, so you see we really enjoy a garden.”

“There is a great difference in cooking fresh food from that which has been picked for several days. Watching your food grow gives you something to look forward to each week.”

Decide what you want to plant Select vegetables and the amount to plant by looking forward to harvest and how you will use the vegetables. There’s no sense in planting something that won’t be used.

When selecting vegetables to grow, consider your available garden space. Some vegetables take a lot of garden space for a long time, while others are planted and harvested in a short time period, producing a lot in a little space. Melons, pumpkins, vining types of squash, and sweet potatoes are in the garden for a long time, yet the harvest period is relatively short. Okra, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and pole beans are also in the garden a long time, but these produce a continuous supply of food.

Sweet corn is one of those vegetables you just have to plant despite how much space it takes (expect to harvest one ear per plant) because it is so good.

Vegetables to consider for small gardens (because of the space they need and the amount they produce) are bush snap and lima beans; leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, mustard, and turnips; green onions; tomatoes; sweet peppers; and eggplant. As space permits, add broccoli, cabbage, hot peppers, okra, summer squash, southern peas, and pole beans. Cucumbers, which normally take a lot of ground space, can be trellised.

Irish and sweet potatoes are productive for the amount of garden space required but present a storage problem when harvested.

Plant varieties recommended for growing in Mississippi.

Don’t continue to use old vegetable varieties when there are new varieties available that resist disease and give higher yields and quality. For example, fusarium wilt is still a major disease problem on tomatoes in some Mississippi gardens where the older varieties are planted. All recommended tomato varieties are resistant to this disease.

The amount of sunlight the garden receives can help you determine which vegetables to grow. Ideally, the garden site should receive full sun all day. This is not always possible, especially when the garden is located on a small residential lot where shade trees block the sun for part of the day.

Where there is no full sun space, plant vegetables in various spots around the house. All vegetables grown for their fruits or seeds, such as corn, tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, eggplant, peppers, beans, and peas, should have the sunniest spots.

Vegetables grown for their leaves or roots, such as beets, cabbage, lettuce, mustard, chard, spinach, and turnips, can grow in partial shade but do better in direct sunlight.

where it receives full sun and is not shaded by trees or buildings.

Choose a place that is near a water supply and has loose, fertile, well-drained soil.

Few gardeners are fortunate enough to have the ideal garden site or soil. This does not mean growing a successful garden is impossible. If you select the right vegetables and carefully manage the soil, some vegetables can be produced in almost any location.

Select a site free of serious weed problems. Nutsedge, torpedograss, bermudagrass, cocklebur, and morningglory are just a few of the weeds that are difficult to control in a garden.

Fence the garden site to keep out children and animals. A twostrand, low-voltage electric fence may be the only way to keep small animals like rabbits and raccoons out of the garden.

Remove low tree limbs that hang over the garden and give animals access.

Decide what size garden you need To determine what size garden you need, consider your family size, the amount of vegetables you need, and whether you will preserve or use the vegetables fresh.

Most important in determining garden size are the gardener’s physical ability, available time and equipment, and genuine interest in gardening. Even though the rewards of gardening are great, the work is hard.

It is better to start small and build on success than to become discouraged and abandon the garden because it was too large or too much work.

Choose a great location for your garden The ideal garden site is close to the house but out in the open Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

45

Use herbs and now you’re cooking Story by MSU Extension For Union County Home & Garden

W

e will never know exactly when or where people started cooking with herbs, but researchers agree that the custom is widespread and ancient probably as ancient as cooking itself. There have been various theories put forth as to why man started using aromatic plants to season his food: to disguise the foul odor and taste of less than fresh food, to aid digestion, to stimulate appetite and on down the line.

All these theories are quite academic and joyless. Ask any six-year-old why he likes “Fruity Mint Punch” and chunks of “Herb Tea Loaf” dipped in chocolate fondue and he will simply and joyfully say, “It tastes great and makes me feel good!” What would a dill pickle be without the dill?

Turkey and dressing without the sage?

Spaghetti without the basil? We use herbs in our cooking because it makes it taste better--simply put.

Many novice cooks fret about how much herbs to add to a recipe, when to add, and what herbs go with what foods. There is only one rule to remember when cooking with herbs and that is THERE ARE NO RULES! The rewards and joys of using herbs to liven up your recipes is in the experimenting. For those of you who want more guidance, a table is included indicating which herbs are good with which foods. Use this as a guideline only.

Experiment by adding a small amount of an herb or combinations of herbs to a dish and then taste. Add more if the flavor doesnít suit you.

Another Suggestion (Not a Rule!)

Add the herbs during the last 15-20 minutes of cooking. Certainly this cannot be done for those recipes that require the herbs to be mixed in with the batter, dressing, etc.; but for stews, vegetables and other recipes the subtle flavor is diminished if the herbs are added at the beginning of the cooking process.

Ways to Use Cooks have so many options to use herbs 46 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

that the only problem is deciding where to start. Use herbs to flavor: • Oils • Vinegars • Butter/Margarine • Breads/Desserts • Beverages • Meat/Poultry/Fish • Soups/Stews • Eggs/Cheese • Sauces/Dressings Finding Herbs Fresh herbs pack the most flavor. During the warm months, gardeners can grow their own herbs and then preserve their harvest by either freezing or drying. Some area grocery stores carry fresh cut herbs in the produce section partially year round.

Windowsill gardens and fluorescent lights can extend the gardener’s herb harvest into the winter months. Every fresh herb may not be available during the winter months, but there is enough for culinary inspiration. Dried herbs can be found at any grocery store.

NOTE: When substituting dried herbs in recipes that call for fresh herbs, DECREASE THE AMOUNT BY HALF. For example, if the recipe calls for a cup of fresh basil, substitute with one-half cup of dried basil.

Herbilicious Recipes

Fruity Mint Punch

5 cups strong tea 2 cups fresh orange juice 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice 1 1/2 cups sugar 1/2 cup water 2 1/4 tablespoons grated orange rind 1/2 cup Kentucky Colonel mint leaves (or other mint), chopped fine Put tea, orange juice and lemon juice in a 2-quart pitcher. In a saucepan, combine sugar, water and orange rind. Heat to boiling over high heat. After boiling for 5 minutes, remove from heat and add mint.

Cover and steep for 5ñ10 minutes. Strain, put in pitcher and serve cold.

Impress Your Guests With Your Herbal Style • An herb sprig tied to the stem of a wine glass with raffia or ribbon is simple and pretty • Use two clear glass plates to sandwich a pattern of herb leaves • Serve herbal butter on a leaf of scented geranium • A single sprig or leaf in the center of an ice cube is enchanting No Waste • When the recipe calls for garlic and fresh herbs, mince the garlic along with the herbs. Not only do the herbs add bulk to make mincing easier; they also catch the garlic oil that is otherwise lost on your cutting surface.

Party-Time Pâté Liven up your next get together with this festive Pâté 1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped (3/4 ñ 1 cup) 6 cups cooked chicken, turkey or duck meat 1 1/2 cups butter or margarine 1/2 - 1 cup cream, as needed 1/3 cup Dijon mustard 1/4 - 1/2 cup fresh herbs; tarragon, sage, lemon,thyme, marjoram, basil or a combination of these 1 - 2 teaspoons hot pepper sauce Salt to taste Freshly ground white pepper to taste 2 ñ 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1/2 cup pistachios, whole, shelled and dry-roasted Blanched vegetables: carrots, spinach, green beans, squash, sorrel, peas, red sweet pepper, green onions or pitted ripe olives.

Process chopped yellow onion, meat, butter and cream until very smooth. Be careful not to add too much cream, or the mixture will become too soft.

When smooth, add mustard, seasonings, and lemon juice; adjust salt to balance taste; stir in pistachios. Cut vegetables into long strips, slices, or irregular chunks.

Line a loaf pan or tureen with plastic wrap, being sure to push it into corners.

Spoon about a third of meat mixture into the lined pan, taking care not to shift the wrap. Smooth the surface with a rubber spatula, pushing it all the way to the edges.

Put a layer of vegetables on the meat, leaving a 1/2-inch space around the edges.

Carefully add another third of meat mixture; top with another layer of vegetables. (Try to arrange each layer of vegetables at different intervals across surface.) Finish with remaining meat mixture. Smooth all the way to edges; give pan several raps to settle completely. Fold edges of plastic wrap over the top to cover.

Refrigerate overnight or several hours until completely firm.

Turn out pâté onto a serving plate and carefully remove plastic wrap. Smooth out any rough or broken spots. Slice into 1/2inch pieces and serve with toast, French bread, crusty rolls, or crackers. Garnish with additional mustard and pickled vegetables.

Keeps very well for several days. If serving whole on a buffet table, a decorative layer of vegetables could be added on the top or the bottom. NOTE: This pâté softens in hot weather, so serve only at cool or normal

room temperature.

Basil and Cheddar Biscuits The tomato paste in this dough results in biscuits that are tinged orange-pink and flecked with green. The flavor is a winning combination - tomatoes, basil, cheddar, and a hint of garlic-rich and savory. No butter needed! If you want to make these during cold weather and you have no fresh basil, use about 1 1/2 tablespoons of dried basil.

Crumble the dried leaves into the milk.

These biscuits won’t have the same perfume and taste as the ones prepared with fresh basil, but they are still quite nice.

2 cups less 2 tablespoons unbleached flour 1/2 cup whole wheat flour 1 cup whole milk 2 Tbsp. tomato paste 2/3 cup finely grated sharp cheddar cheese 1/2 tsp. salt 2 tsp. baking powder 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 large clove garlic 1/2 cup finely minced basil Preheat the oven to 400° F. Combine the flours, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl and blend thoroughly; cut in the butter until the mixture resembles a coarse meal.

In a small bowl, combine the milk with the tomato paste, blending well. Press the garlic through a garlic press into the milk and stir. Add the liquid to the dry ingredients along with the cheese and basil, and stir to form soft dough.

Turn the dough onto a floured pastry marble or board, knead gently until it just comes together, and roll out to 1/2 thickness.

Cut the dough into 1 1/2 to 2 inch racks to cool slightly before serving. The biscuits are best-served warm and right after baking.

If you want to prepare them in advance, cool them completely and store them in an airtight container. Wrap them in foil and gently reheat in 325° oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Makes about 2 dozen biscuits.

Herb Tea Loaf This tender cake is lighter than pound cake and well suited for dipping in chocolate fondue.

2 cups unbleached flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 2 to 3 tablespoons minced mint or lemon balm leaves, 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons fresh lavender or anise hyssop blossoms, or 1/2 teaspoon dried blossoms

Ray G. Collins, CIC Collins Insurance Agency

(662) 534-7676

100 Oxford Road

New Albany, MS 38652

www.collinsinsurance1.com

Representing Allstate for 38 years.

© 2011 Allstate Insurance Company Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

47

1 cup sugar 3 extra-large eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter and flour a 9-by-5-by-3 inch loaf pan.

Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt and set aside. Stir the herbs into the milk and set aside.

Cream the butter and sugar. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, until the mixture becomes light and fluffy. Add the vanilla and blend well.

Add the flour alternately in three parts with the milk. Pour the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. The loaf is done when the top is golden brown, the edges pull away slightly, and a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes, then turn onto a rack. When cool, cut into 1-inch cubes and use as fondue dippers.

Basil Pesto 2 cups fresh basil leaves, removed from stem 1/2 cup fresh parsley leaves 1/2 cup olive oil 2 garlic cloves, peeled Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1/4 cup roasted pine nuts 1/4 cup fresh Parmesan or Asiago cheese In a blender or food processor, puree the basil, parsley, oil, garlic, salt, and pepper.

Add the nuts and the cheese and process briefly until the pesto reaches the desired consistency. Makes 2 cups.

Classic Herbal Dressing 1 cup vegetable or olive oil 1/4 cup lemon juice or red wine vinegar 1/4 cup water 1/3 cup fresh parsley leaves and tender stems 2 tablespoons fresh marjoram, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped 1/2 teaspoon celery seed 1 clove garlic 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce Place all ingredients in blender and mix at low speed till nearly smooth, then at high speed for 30 seconds. Taste for salt.

Use for salad greens or to marinate cooked or raw vegetables. Makes 1 1/2 cups.

Note: Substitute 1 teaspoon dried herbs per 1-tablespoon fresh measurement.

You may also substitute 1/2 cup white 48 Union County Green/New Albany Gazette

wine vinegar for lemon juice or red wine vinegar and water.

Oven-Roasted Vegetables with Herbs This is a comfort food in every sense. Not only are roasted vegetables easy to prepare, but they are as satisfying as seeing an old friend. As alternatives to the ingredients listed, consider white potatoes, winter squash, and sage. “Soft” vegetables such as summer squash or mushrooms also roast but need only 30 minutes to cook.

3 sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” pieces 3 carrots, peeled, halved crosswise, then lengthwise 2 onions, peeled and cut into 8 wedges 1 garlic head, separated into cloves and peeled 1/4 cup minced fresh rosemary leaves 1/4 cup minced fresh thyme leaves 3 tablespoons olive oil Heat the oven to 400° F. In a large bowl, toss together the sweet potatoes, carrots, onions, garlic, rosemary, and thyme.

Drizzle on the oil and toss again. Spread the mixture on a large baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally for 1 hour, or until golden and tender. Add salt and pepper to taste, transfer to a platter, and serve.

Most Elegant Rose Geranium Pound Cake This famous cake freezes well and is

equally delectable served with fresh fruit or vanilla sauce in place of the Lemon Curd.

10-12 rose geranium leaves, stems removed 1 1/2 cups butter 3 cups vanilla sugar (or add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract if using plain sugar) 5 eggs 3 cups sifted flour 6 ounces lemon-lime soda (do not use diet soda) 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice Lemon Curd (Below) Additional rose geranium leaf for garnish Grease and flour a 10-inch Bundt or tube cake pan. Place geranium leaves face down on bottom of pan, tearing some leaves apart to fill in completely. Preheat over to 325°.

Cream butter and sugar with electric mixer until light and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, beating well between each addition. Add flour alternately with soda, beating well. Stir in lemon juice.

Pour batter into prepared cake pan, smoothing top. Bake 1 - 1 1/4 hours. If necessary to prevent overbrowning (ovens vary), place a piece of aluminum foil lightly over the cake toward end of baking.

After cake is removed from oven, cool for 10 minutes and invert carefully on plate.

Slice cake and serve with warm Lemon Curd. Garnish with fresh rose geranium leaf. Yields: 15 - 20 slices.

Lemon Curd This excellent sauce has a multitude of uses - ice cream topping, pie filling, pudding garnish, cake frosting, to mention a few ñ and it keeps well in the refrigerator.

2 whole eggs 2 egg yolks 1 cup sugar 2/3 cup fresh lemon juice 1 cup butter Mix all ingredients in blender or mixer.

Cook in stainless or ceramic double boiler till thickened, stirring constantly. Serve warm. Refrigerate leftover sauce and reheat in double boiler to serve. Yields about 2 cups.

Variation: Once sauce is thickened, stir in chopped sweet herbs ñ rose geranium, mints, lemon verbena or rosemary.

Herb Cooking for Kids (Or How to Make a Big Mess) Children love to help in the kitchen. They especially love cooking with herbs because herbs smell so good and they get to channel their energies into smashing, chopping, grinding and beating the daylights out of things and itís acceptable behavior!

Make it a real occasion-- setting the

table, brewing the tea, making an herbal centerpiece, preparing the herbal snacks making it a very special treat. The herbal snacks can be something as simple as mint jelly dabbed on the top of a sugar cookie or chopped sage mixed into a soft cheese and spread on crackers.

Peter Rabbit’s Tummy Tea Bring 3 cups of water to a boil. Add 3 tablespoons of dried chamomile flowers and 6 whole cloves. Immediately remove from heat, cover and steep for 20 minutes.

Strain and sweeten with sugar, honey or dollops of mint jelly. Chamomile has a soothing effect on rowdy youngsters helping to turn them into perfect little ladies and gentlemen at least for a few minutes!

Purchased tea blends can be easily altered into special treats by the addition of spices (cloves, cinnamon) or herbs (lemon verbena, pineapple sage, bee balm, anise hyssop, lemon balm).

Rosemary Shortbread

These tea cookies are rich, crumbly and satisfying. Pack them away in a cookie tin, then proudly serve them at your next herbal tea party.

1 cup butter 1 cup very fine granulated sugar

3 cups flour 3-4 heaping tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped Preheat the oven to 275º. Thoroughly cream the butter and sugar. Add 2 and one half cups flour and mix. Turn out on a board floured with the remaining one half cup flour. Wrestle (knead) in the rosemary along with the flour until the dough cracks on the surface and doesn’t stick to the board. Roll it one-fourth inch thick, then cut into shapes. Bake on an ungreased cookie sheet 50 minutes, or until lightly browned. Cool on racks.

“Beat It” Dip Lot of fun for kids to make. They can get as rambunctious as they like “beating” the ingredients all together.

1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese 2 very ripe Roma tomatoes 2 teaspoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon minced oregano 1 teaspoon minced basil 1 teaspoon minced chives Salt and pepper to taste Let the kids “beat” all the ingredients together. Put the dip in the refrigerator to chill overnight. Serve with chips or crackers.

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